JP2021165449A - Light weight jacket - Google Patents

Light weight jacket Download PDF

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JP2021165449A
JP2021165449A JP2020068800A JP2020068800A JP2021165449A JP 2021165449 A JP2021165449 A JP 2021165449A JP 2020068800 A JP2020068800 A JP 2020068800A JP 2020068800 A JP2020068800 A JP 2020068800A JP 2021165449 A JP2021165449 A JP 2021165449A
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interlining
jacket
sleeves
front body
lining
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JP7489091B2 (en
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隆生 矢島
Takao Yajima
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Flex Japan Co Ltd
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Flex Japan Co Ltd
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Abstract

To provide a light weight jacket with good appearance which effectively prevents vertical wrinkles near upper ends of shoulder parts of right and left front body parts while keeping light fitting and soft texture excellent.SOLUTION: Regarding a light weight jacket 1 in which the use of lining, interlining, and pads is omitted to the utmost extent and unconstructed cut is made to seek for light fitting and soft texture, and interlining 6 is applied to a necessary range from a neckline 4 to an armhole 5 in a limiting manner along upper ends of shoulder parts of right and left front body parts 3.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

本発明は、軽量ジャケットに関するものである。 The present invention relates to a lightweight jacket.

近年、非常に軽い着心地で着用できる柔らかな風合いの軽量ジャケットが提案されており、春や秋の中間シーズンに脱ぎ着して暑さや寒さを調整できる新たなファッションアイテムとして、また、ビジネスシーンにおいても夏場の訪問上着となり得る新たなクールビズ商品として注目されている。 In recent years, lightweight jackets with a soft texture that can be worn with extremely light comfort have been proposed, and as a new fashion item that can be put on and taken off in the middle season of spring and autumn to adjust the heat and cold, and in the business scene. Is also attracting attention as a new Cool Biz product that can be used as a jacket for visiting in the summer.

ここで言うところの軽量ジャケットとは、アンコン仕立てと称される手法で非構築的に仕立てられたジャケットのことを指しており、「アンコン」とは、「アンコンストラクテッド:unconstructed」の略語であり、アンコン仕立てにおいては、これまでのテーラードジャケットの必須条件とされてきた裏地と芯地とパッドを極力省略し、主として裁断だけでテーラードジャケットのフォルムを構築するようにしている。 The lightweight jacket here refers to a jacket that is non-constructively tailored by a method called unconstructed tailoring, and "ancon" is an abbreviation for "unconstructed". In the tailoring of the ancon, the lining, interlining and pad, which have been the essential conditions for the tailored jacket, are omitted as much as possible, and the form of the tailored jacket is constructed mainly by cutting.

尚、この種の軽量ジャケットに関連する先行技術文献情報としては下記の特許文献1等がある。 Prior art document information related to this type of lightweight jacket includes the following Patent Document 1 and the like.

特開平8−134703号公報Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 8-134703

しかしながら、前述した如き従来の軽量ジャケットでは、軽い着心地と柔らかな風合いを追求する観点から少なくとも左右の前身頃について芯地を省くようにしているが、そのようにした場合、腕を前方に突き出すような動作をすることで左右の前身頃における肩部上端付近に縦じわが生じ易くなり、紳士服として見苦しい印象となってしまうことが課題となっている。 However, in the conventional lightweight jacket as described above, the interlining is omitted at least for the left and right front bodies from the viewpoint of pursuing light comfort and soft texture, but in such a case, the arm is projected forward. By performing such an operation, vertical wrinkles are likely to occur near the upper ends of the shoulders on the left and right front bodies, which gives an unsightly impression as men's clothing.

本発明は上述の実情に鑑みてなしたもので、軽い着心地や柔らかい風合いを良好に保ちつつ左右の前身頃の肩部上端付近の縦じわを効果的に防止して見栄えの良い軽量ジャケットを実現することを目的とする。 The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and is a lightweight jacket that looks good by effectively preventing vertical wrinkles near the upper ends of the shoulders of the left and right front bodies while maintaining good light comfort and soft texture. The purpose is to realize.

本発明は、裏地と芯地とパッドの使用を極力省略してアンコン仕立てにより軽い着心地と柔らかな風合いを追求した軽量ジャケットであって、左右の前身頃における肩部上端に沿い襟ぐりから袖ぐりに亘る所要範囲にだけ芯地を限定的に採用したことを特徴とするものである。 The present invention is a lightweight jacket that pursues light comfort and a soft texture by omitting the use of lining, interlining and pads as much as possible, and is made from the neckline to the sleeves along the upper ends of the shoulders on the left and right front bodies. It is characterized in that the interlining is used in a limited manner only in the required range.

而して、このようにすれば、前身頃の肩部上端に沿う襟ぐりから袖ぐりにかけての所要範囲が芯地により限定的に補強されて剛性が高められる結果、腕を前方に突き出すような動作をした際にも前記芯地の配置された部分が全体的に大きく撓むことで縦じわが生じ難くなり、また、前記芯地の配置が極めて限定的な範囲に抑えられることで左右の前身頃の大部分が従前通り芯地無しで仕立てられることで軽い着心地や柔らかい風合いが良好に保持されることになる。 Thus, in this way, the required range from the neckline to the sleeves along the upper end of the shoulder of the front body is reinforced by the interlining in a limited manner, and as a result, the rigidity is increased, and as a result, the arm is projected forward. Even when the interlining is arranged, the portion where the interlining is arranged is greatly bent as a whole, so that vertical wrinkles are less likely to occur, and the arrangement of the interlining is suppressed to an extremely limited range, so that the left and right predecessors Most of the time is tailored without interlining as before, so that light comfort and soft texture are well maintained.

尚、左右の前身頃における肩部上端に沿い襟ぐりから袖ぐりに亘る芯地は、軽量ジャケットのショルダーラインを美しく保形する作用もあるため、紳士服として相応しいシルエットを整えたり、良好なフィット感を生んだりすることにも寄与することになる。 In addition, the interlining from the neckline to the sleeves along the upper end of the shoulders on the left and right front bodies also has the effect of keeping the shoulder line of the lightweight jacket beautiful, so you can arrange a silhouette suitable for men's clothing and have a good fit. It will also contribute to the production of.

また、本発明においては、襟ぐりから袖ぐりにかけて末広がりに下方へ拡張し且つ前記袖ぐりの前方部分の大半を網羅するように芯地が三角形状を成して形成されていることが好ましく、このようにすれば、前記芯地の配置を極力少ない範囲に限定しながらも効果的な縦じわ防止が得られる。 Further, in the present invention, it is preferable that the interlining is formed in a triangular shape so as to expand downward from the neckline to the sleeves and cover most of the front portion of the sleeves. If it is set to, effective vertical wrinkle prevention can be obtained while limiting the arrangement of the interlining to a range as small as possible.

即ち、腕を前方に突き出すような動作に起因して前身頃の上端付近に寄る縦じわは、袖を縫い付けられることで相対的に剛性の増した袖ぐりに対し、該袖ぐりに隣接する前身頃側が柔軟過ぎることで前記袖ぐり近くに集中して生じ易いため、前述の如き三角形状の芯地を採用すれば、該芯地により袖ぐりに近づくにつれ広く補強されることになり、最も縦じわが生じ易い袖ぐり近くが効果的に補強されることになる。 That is, the vertical wrinkles near the upper end of the front body due to the movement of pushing the arm forward are adjacent to the sleeves, which are relatively rigid due to the sleeves being sewn. Since the front body side is too flexible, it tends to be concentrated near the sleeve hole, so if the triangular interlining as described above is adopted, the core material will be widely reinforced as it approaches the sleeve hole. The area near the sleeves, where vertical wrinkles are most likely to occur, will be effectively reinforced.

上記した本発明の軽量ジャケットによれば、芯地の配置を極力少ない範囲に限定しながらも効果的な縦じわ防止を図ることができ、芯地の配置による着心地や風合いへの悪影響を極めて軽微に抑えることができるので、軽い着心地や柔らかい風合いを良好に保ちつつ左右の前身頃の肩部上端付近の縦じわを効果的に防止して見栄えの良い軽量ジャケットを実現することができるという優れた効果を奏し得る。 According to the lightweight jacket of the present invention described above, it is possible to effectively prevent vertical wrinkles while limiting the arrangement of the interlining to the smallest possible range, and the arrangement of the interlining adversely affects the comfort and texture. Since it can be suppressed to an extremely slight level, it is possible to realize a lightweight jacket that looks good by effectively preventing vertical wrinkles near the upper ends of the shoulders of the left and right front bodies while maintaining good light comfort and soft texture. It can have an excellent effect of being able to do it.

本発明を実施する形態の一例を示す正面図である。It is a front view which shows an example of the embodiment of this invention. 図1の要部の詳細を拡大して示す説明図である。It is explanatory drawing which shows the detail of the main part of FIG. 1 in an enlarged manner. 図1の軽量ジャケットの広見返しを説明するための展開図である。It is a development view for demonstrating the wide endpaper of the lightweight jacket of FIG.

以下、本発明の実施の形態を図面を参照しつつ説明する。 Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

図1〜図3は本発明を実施する形態の一例を示すもので、ここに図示している軽量ジャケット1は、裏地と芯地とパッドの使用を極力省略してアンコン仕立てにより軽い着心地と柔らかな風合いを追求したものとなっており、より具体的には、背中部分を覆う後身頃2を裏地無しで表地のみの一重で構成する一方、左右の前身頃3の裏仕立てを広見返し(大見返し)により裏地無しで表地と同種の生地を重ねて二重で構成したものとなっているが、左右の前身頃3における肩部上端に沿い襟ぐり4から袖ぐり5に亘る所要範囲にだけ芯地6を限定的に採用したところが特徴となっていて、この芯地6は、襟ぐり4から袖ぐり5にかけて末広がりに下方へ拡張し且つ前記袖ぐり5の前方部分の大半を網羅するように三角形状(図2参照)を成して形成されている。 1 to 3 show an example of the embodiment of the present invention, and the lightweight jacket 1 shown here is made to be light and comfortable by omitting the use of lining, interlining and pad as much as possible. In pursuit of a soft texture, more specifically, the back body 2 that covers the back part is composed of only the outer material without lining, while the lining of the left and right front body 3 is wide-faced ( It is made up of double layers of the same type of fabric as the outer material without lining, but only in the required range from the collar 4 to the sleeve 5 along the upper end of the shoulder on the left and right front body 3. The feature is that the interlining 6 is used in a limited manner, and the interlining 6 extends downward from the collar 4 to the sleeve 5 so as to cover most of the front part of the sleeve 5. It is formed in a triangular shape (see FIG. 2).

更に、図3の後身頃2と前身頃3の展開図を用いて補足説明を加えると、軽量ジャケット1における襟7は、前身頃3と後身頃2に作られた夫々の襟ぐり4に縫着されるカラー7a(上襟)と、左右の前身頃3に一体的に形成されて折り返し襟を成すラペル7b(下襟)とをきざみの切り替えを介し縫い付けて構成されるようになっており、このラペル7bの前身頃3の裏側に回り込んでいる部分を見返しと言うが、この見返しを前身頃3の裏地部分まで広く取って裏地を省略するようにした仕立てが広見返しと称されるものである。 Further, when a supplementary explanation is added using the development view of the back body 2 and the front body 3 of FIG. 3, the collar 7 in the lightweight jacket 1 is sewn to the respective collar holes 4 made on the front body 3 and the back body 2. The collar 7a (upper collar) and the lapel 7b (lower collar), which are integrally formed on the left and right front bodies 3 to form a folded collar, are sewn together through knurling. , The part that wraps around the back side of the front body 3 of this lapel 7b is said to be a look back, but the tailoring that widens this back to the lining part of the front body 3 and omits the lining is called a wide look back. It is a thing.

尚、もともと紳士服における裏地は非常に軽い素材であるため、広見返しの採用で前身頃3の裏地が省かれることによる軽量化のメリットは少ないが、前身頃3の裏側が広く裏地で覆われているのは見た目に暑苦しく軽快感に欠けるため、本発明で対象としているようなアンコン仕立ての軽量ジャケット1と組み合わせることで涼しげで軽快な印象を持たせることが可能となり、前述した三角形状の芯地6も広見返しにより裏側から全く目立たないように覆うことも可能となる。 Since the lining of men's clothing is originally a very light material, there is little merit of weight reduction by omitting the lining of the front body 3 by adopting the wide endpaper, but the back side of the front body 3 is widely covered with the lining. Since it looks hot and lacks lightness, it is possible to give a cool and light impression by combining it with the lightweight jacket 1 made by Ancon as targeted in the present invention, and the above-mentioned triangular interlining It is also possible to cover the ground 6 inconspicuously from the back side by widening the back.

また、図3中における符号の8は袖ぐり5に縫い付けられる袖、9は軽量ジャケット1の裏側の縫製始末を見た目に美しく処理するためのパイピング、10は背裏の肩口に僅かに残して背中や袖通しの滑りを良くするための裏地を示している。 Further, in FIG. 3, reference numeral 8 is a sleeve sewn on the sleeve hole 5, 9 is piping for beautifully processing the sewing finish on the back side of the lightweight jacket 1, and 10 is slightly left on the back shoulder. Shows lining to improve slippage on the back and sleeves.

而して、このように軽量ジャケット1を構成すれば、前身頃3の肩部上端に沿う襟ぐり4から袖ぐり5にかけての所要範囲が芯地6により限定的に補強されて剛性が高められる結果、腕を前方に突き出すような動作をした際にも前記芯地6の配置された部分が全体的に大きく撓むことで縦じわが生じ難くなり、また、前記芯地6の配置が極めて限定的な範囲に抑えられることで左右の前身頃3の大部分が従前通り芯地無しで仕立てられることで軽い着心地や柔らかい風合いが良好に保持される。 Thus, when the lightweight jacket 1 is configured in this way, the required range from the neckline 4 to the sleeves 5 along the upper end of the shoulder of the front body 3 is limitedly reinforced by the interlining 6 and the rigidity is increased. Even when the arm is pushed forward, the portion where the interlining 6 is arranged is greatly bent as a whole, so that vertical wrinkles are less likely to occur, and the arrangement of the interlining 6 is extremely limited. Most of the left and right front body 3 is tailored without interlining as before, so that light comfort and soft texture are well maintained.

この際、特に本形態例にあっては、襟ぐり4から袖ぐり5にかけて末広がりに下方へ拡張し且つ前記袖ぐり5の前方部分の大半を網羅するように芯地6が三角形状を成して形成されているので、前記芯地6の配置を極力少ない範囲に限定しながらも効果的な縦じわ防止が得られる。 At this time, particularly in this embodiment, the interlining 6 forms a triangular shape so as to expand downward from the neckline 4 to the sleeves 5 and cover most of the front portion of the sleeves 5. Since it is formed, effective vertical wrinkle prevention can be obtained while limiting the arrangement of the interlining 6 to a range as small as possible.

即ち、腕を前方に突き出すような動作に起因して前身頃3の上端付近に寄る縦じわは、袖8を縫い付けられることで相対的に剛性の増した袖ぐり5に対し、該袖ぐり5に隣接する前身頃3側が柔軟過ぎることで前記袖ぐり5近くに集中して生じ易いため、前述の如き三角形状の芯地6を採用すれば、該芯地6により袖ぐり5に近づくにつれ広く補強されることになり、最も縦じわが生じ易い袖ぐり5近くが効果的に補強されることになる。 That is, the vertical wrinkles near the upper end of the front body 3 due to the movement of pushing the arm forward are the sleeves with respect to the sleeves 5 whose rigidity is relatively increased by sewing the sleeves 8. Since the front body 3 side adjacent to the hole 5 is too flexible, it tends to be concentrated near the sleeve line 5, so if the triangular interlining 6 as described above is adopted, the center material 6 approaches the sleeve hole 5. As it is widely reinforced, the sleeve holes 5 where vertical wrinkles are most likely to occur are effectively reinforced.

尚、左右の前身頃3における肩部上端に沿い襟ぐり4から袖ぐり5に亘る芯地6は、軽量ジャケット1のショルダーラインを美しく保形する作用もあるため、紳士服として相応しいシルエットを整えたり、良好なフィット感を生んだりすることにも寄与することになる。 The interlining 6 extending from the neckline 4 to the sleeves 5 along the upper end of the shoulders on the left and right front bodies 3 also has the effect of beautifully retaining the shape of the shoulder line of the lightweight jacket 1, so that a silhouette suitable for men's clothing can be prepared. , It will also contribute to producing a good fit.

従って、上記形態例によれば、芯地6の配置を極力少ない範囲に限定しながらも効果的な縦じわ防止を図ることができ、芯地6の配置による着心地や風合いへの悪影響を極めて軽微に抑えることができるので、軽い着心地や柔らかい風合いを良好に保ちつつ左右の前身頃3の肩部上端付近の縦じわを効果的に防止して見栄えの良い軽量ジャケット1を実現することができる。 Therefore, according to the above embodiment, it is possible to effectively prevent vertical wrinkles while limiting the arrangement of the interlining 6 to the smallest possible range, and the arrangement of the interlining 6 adversely affects the comfort and texture. Since it can be suppressed to an extremely slight level, it is possible to realize a lightweight jacket 1 that looks good by effectively preventing vertical wrinkles near the upper ends of the shoulders of the left and right front bodies 3 while maintaining good light comfort and soft texture. be able to.

尚、本発明の軽量ジャケットは、上述の形態例にのみ限定されるものではなく、広見返しの採用は必須の構成ではないこと、その他、本発明の要旨を逸脱しない範囲内において種々変更を加え得ることは勿論である。 It should be noted that the lightweight jacket of the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiment, and the adoption of a wide endpaper is not an indispensable configuration, and various other changes are made without departing from the gist of the present invention. Of course you can get it.

1 軽量ジャケット
3 前身頃
4 襟ぐり
5 袖ぐり
6 芯地
1 Lightweight jacket 3 Front body 4 Neckline 5 Sleeves 6 Interlining

Claims (2)

裏地と芯地とパッドの使用を極力省略してアンコン仕立てにより軽い着心地と柔らかな風合いを追求した軽量ジャケットであって、左右の前身頃における肩部上端に沿い襟ぐりから袖ぐりに亘る所要範囲にだけ芯地を限定的に採用したことを特徴とする軽量ジャケット。 A lightweight jacket that pursues light comfort and a soft texture by omitting the use of lining, interlining and pads as much as possible, and the required range from the neckline to the sleeves along the upper end of the shoulders on the left and right front bodies. A lightweight jacket featuring a limited use of interlining. 襟ぐりから袖ぐりにかけて末広がりに下方へ拡張し且つ前記袖ぐりの前方部分の大半を網羅するように芯地が三角形状を成して形成されていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の軽量ジャケット。 The lightweight jacket according to claim 1, wherein the core is formed in a triangular shape so as to extend downward from the neckline to the sleeves and to cover most of the front portion of the sleeves. ..
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JP4958046B2 (en) 2007-07-17 2012-06-20 久光 関根 Ancon jacket
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