JP2020190038A - Upper garment - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide an upper garment capable of achieving high motor functionality as well as excellent quality of appearance and design, without adding an allowance to an armhole part of a front body part and a back body part.SOLUTION: An upper garment 1 comprises a front body part 2, and a back body part 3, and a sleeve part 21. A sleeve cap 25 of the sleeve part 21 comprises: a first curved part 26 that curves and descends from a shoulder point SP corresponding to a shoulder tip; and second and third curved parts 27 and 28 that curve and ascend from a predetermined inflection part IP of the first curved part and extend to an armhole bottom 11 of an armhole part (armhole) 7 of the front body part 2 and the back body part 3. In the second and third curved parts 27 and 28, portions (armhole ends) 29a and 29b corresponding to the armhole bottom 11 are disposed in a position equal to or lower than the position of the shoulder point SP.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

The present invention relates to a top that has excellent mobility and design, and is useful as a business shirt, casual shirt, pajamas, and the like.

Tops such as sportswear are required to have athletic functionality as well as decorativeness or design. According to Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-71621 (Patent Document 1), the radius of curvature of the sleeved seam line of the sleeve body is made smaller than the sleeved seam line of the front and back body on the upper shoulder in an S-shaped form, and the armpits. The upper garment is described in which the sleeve body and the front and back body are sewn on the side, which is larger than the sleeved seam line of the front and back body. However, in this upper garment, radial wrinkles are formed on the armpits and on the shoulders, which may impair the design and appearance quality.

In WO2009 / 125487 (Patent Document 2), the reference position for suturing the sleeves (front sleeves and back sleeves) to the body (front body and back body) is the body rather than the shoulder point corresponding to the shoulder tip. The upper garment that protrudes toward the side and protrudes toward the body side from the boundary point between the front and rear sewn portions of the sleeve portion and the sewn end portion of the body is described. This document also describes that the front and rear sewn portions are curved symmetrically from the shoulder points of the sleeves, and the top of the front and rear sewn portions protrudes from the shoulder points. This top allows the upper arm to move up and down and back and forth without the body being pulled by the sleeves. However, in this top, the amount of exercise is large, and bulges or wrinkles are likely to occur on the shoulders. Further, since the sleeves are located above the shoulder line of the front body, the decorativeness and design are impaired. Further, since the top of the front and rear sewn portions protrudes from the shoulder point, the fabric is easily wasted, which is not economical.

According to Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-95809 (Patent Document 3), the tension generated when the arm is swung diagonally upward to the left and right with respect to the body, starting from the contact portion between the cuffs and the upper part of the upper arm, Sportswear with the minimum amount of space required for exercise in two directions, the direction from the armpit to the back of the armpit through the front side and the direction from the back side of the upper arm to the shoulder skull, is described. The degree of curvature from the shoulder point of the sleeve part is increased to form a sleeve margin part in the part corresponding to the back body, and the back body part corresponding to this margin part includes the back body margin including the armpit part. The state in which the portion is formed is shown. However, in such sportswear, the momentum is secured in both the sleeve and the back body, and even if the movement of the arm in the lateral direction can be followed, the movement of the arm in the upward direction can be followed. However, tension occurs. Further, since the sleeve portion is curved from the shoulder point and sewn to the front body and the back body, a bulge or a wrinkle is likely to occur on the shoulder portion of the sportswear. In addition, there is a wide margin on the side. Therefore, there is room for improvement in terms of design.

In Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-52918 (Patent Document 4), a wedge-shaped valley is provided in the middle of the front and back sleeve attachment lines of the sleeves, and the front and back sleeve attachment lines and the back body sleeve attachment lines are provided. The bottom of the valley of the sleeve is positioned on the straight part of the front and back body that intersects the chest width line of the front body sleeve line and the back width line of the back body sleeve line. In addition, the upper garment with the lower part of the side sleeves of the sleeves stretchable is described. In this document, the shoulder point of the sleeve is curved symmetrically, and the lower part of the side sleeve (bias part) of the sleeve is formed by a small bulging mountain part (tongue piece-shaped mountain part) through the bottom of the valley. However, it is described that it is easy to move the upper arm in the vertical direction, and that the lower part of the side sleeve (bias part) can adapt to the movement in the front-back and left-right directions of the arm. However, since the front body sleeve line and the back body sleeve line are inserted into the wedge shape, the sleeve hole becomes wider and the design may be deteriorated. Further, since the front body and the back body are provided with straight portions, there is room for improvement in decorativeness and design from this point as well. Further, if a bias is formed in the lower part of the side sleeve, the sewing workability is lowered. In particular, it is necessary to correct the front and back bodies in correspondence with the lower part of the side sleeves (bias part). That is, it is necessary to lower the position of the sickle bottom of the body to make the sleeves larger so as to correspond to the lower part of the side sleeves (bias part).

As described above, in the conventional upper garment, even if wrinkles and bulges do not occur in the natural state where the upper arm is lowered, the body is lifted and the motor functionality is lowered in the state where the upper arm is raised upward. In particular, when long sleeves are formed using non-stretchable fabric and non-stretchable fabric, the appearance design is greatly reduced in the natural state where the upper arm is lowered, and when the upper arm is raised, the body is pulled and exercises. Functionality is greatly reduced. Therefore, it is not possible to achieve both design and appearance quality and motor functionality. In particular, it is not possible to achieve both motor functionality, design and appearance quality without modifying the body.

Jitsukaisho 60-71621 (Claims for Utility Model Registration, Figures 1 to 4) WO2009 / 125487 (Claims, FIGS. 1 to 4) JP-A-9-95809 (Claim 2, FIG. 1, FIG. 2) Jikkai Sho 60-52918 (Page 2, Line 14 to Page 4, Line 18, Fig. 1 to Fig. 3)

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a top that can prevent the formation of wrinkles and bulges, and can achieve both high motor functionality and excellent appearance quality and design.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a top that can effectively use the fabric, has a large amount of vertical movement without forming a bias in the lower part of the side sleeves, and has excellent appearance quality.

Still another object of the present invention is that even if the body (front body and back body) is not modified (the silhouette of the body is changed) and the long sleeves are formed of the non-stretchable fabric and the non-stretchable fabric, the sleeve portion It is an object of the present invention to provide a top that can increase the amount of exercise in the form of the above and can achieve both motor functionality and design.

As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors devised the shape of the sleeve portion without changing the silhouette of the body, and curved the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion from the shoulder point toward both sides. A first curved portion (curved descending portion) that descends, and a second and second curved portion that curves and rises from a predetermined curved portion of the first curved portion to reach the sickle bottom of the armholes of the front body and the rear body. It is formed by the curved portion (curved rising portion) of 3, and the position of the portion (sleeve ridge end portion) corresponding to the sickle bottom portion of the second and third curved portions is equal to (or the same as) the shoulder point or the shoulder. If it is positioned lower than the point, a margin (exercise portion) can be formed under the sleeve by the second and third curved portions without changing the silhouette of the body, and both motor functionality and design can be achieved. I found it and completed the present invention.

That is, the upper garment of the present invention includes a body (front body and back body) and a sleeve portion, and in the garment state, the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion bends and descends from the shoulder point corresponding to the shoulder tip. 1 curved portion (curved descending portion that curves in the direction of both sides and descends) and a curved descending portion that is located on both sides of the first curved portion and is curved from a predetermined inflection portion of the first curved portion. It is provided with second and third curved portions (curved rising portions) that rise to reach the sickle bottom of the armholes of the front body and the rear body. Of the second and third curved portions (curved rising portion), the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom portion (the end portion of the curved rising portion or the sewn portion with the sickle bottom portion) is equal to or larger than the shoulder point. It is located in a low position. That is, the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the sleeve ridge portion includes the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the first curved portion (curved lowering portion) and the second and third curved portions (curved rising portion). ) Sleeve attachment part (sleeve attachment line), and the part (sleeve attachment line) corresponding to the sickle bottom portion of the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the second and third bending portions (curvature rising portion). The sewn portion with the bottom portion) is located at a position equal to or lower than the shoulder point. When such a sleeve part is used, an exercise part (or a margin part) is provided in the lower armpit by the second and third curved parts without changing the silhouette of the body and without extending the sleeve part upward from the shoulder line. Can be formed. Therefore, the design (appearance quality) and the motor functionality (for example, the motor functionality in the vertical direction) can be enhanced.

In the unfolded state, the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion may have any of the following forms (1) or (2).

(1) A mountain-shaped first curved portion that curves and descends from the shoulder point in the direction of both sides, and a second curved portion and a third curved portion are located on both sides of the first curved portion, respectively. Form to do;
(2) A first curved portion that curves and descends in the direction of both sides from the shoulder point, and a second curved portion and a third curved portion are underlined on one side of the first curved portion. A form in which a mountain-shaped curved part formed by sharing is located

Further, the sleeves, the front sleeves and the back sleeves are sewn to each other without adding a margin to the sleeves of the front and back bodies, and the design (appearance quality) and motor functionality (for example) (Motor functionality in the vertical direction) may be enhanced.

In the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion of the sleeve portion, the length from the inflection point to the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom portion may be equal to or larger than the length from the shoulder point to the inflection point. .. By increasing the length of the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the second and third curved portions of the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion, the momentum at the lower armpit can be increased.

Further, in the clothes state, the inflection point may be located at the central portion (or central region) of the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion in the sleeve width direction. By locating the inflection point in such a portion, the amount of exercise can be increased without impairing the design.

Therefore, in the upper garment of the present invention, even if it is formed of a non-stretchable fabric and / or a fabric that is hard to stretch, a moving portion (or a margin portion) can be provided to the lower armpit by the region of the second and third curved portions, and the momentum can be provided. Can be secured. It may also have at least one type of sleeve selected from long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, half-sleeve and short sleeves.

In the present specification, "top" may be used synonymously with "top", and at least clothing worn on the upper body, such as a dress in which a top and a skirt are connected, or a coverall, is also included. To do. Further, in the raglan type top, in the developed view, the cuff side portion (or the chevron region) of the sleeve portion can be referred to as the cuff ridge portion with reference to the shoulder point located at the shoulder tip. Further, in the width direction of the sleeve ridge, the intersection of the curved portion of the sleeve ridge (for example, the second and third curved portions) and the underline of the sleeve may be referred to as the sleeve ridge end. Further, the form of the sleeve ridge portion (the form of the first to third curved portions) means the form in the clothes state with reference to the shoulder point.

In the present invention, since the first curved portion and the second and third curved portions are provided, it is possible to prevent the formation of wrinkles and bulges, and it is in a normal state (a state in which the arm is lowered). Since the margin portion formed in the regions of the second and third curved portions is located in the lower armpit, the margin portion is not exposed and has excellent appearance quality and design. In addition, since a large margin of momentum can be formed in the regions of the second and third curved portions, it also has high motor functionality. Therefore, it is possible to achieve both high appearance quality and design and high motor functionality. Furthermore, since the ends of the second and third curved portions are at the same position as the shoulder point or at a position lower than the shoulder point, there is no waste in cutting the fabric, the fabric can be effectively used, and the lower part of the side sleeves. Even if a bias is not formed, the momentum in the vertical direction is large, and the appearance quality can be improved. Furthermore, even if the long sleeves are formed of non-stretchable fabric without changing the silhouette of the body, the amount of exercise can be increased in the form of the sleeves, and both motor functionality and design can be achieved.

FIG. 1 is a development view showing an example of a front body, a back body, and a sleeve portion of a top (set-in type top) of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a developed view showing the sleeve portion of FIG. FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing a usage state of the upper garment shown in FIG. FIG. 4 is a development view showing another example of the front body and the back body of the upper body (set-in type upper body) of the present invention. FIG. 5 is a development view showing another example of the sleeve portion that can be used in combination with the front body and the back body of FIG. FIG. 6 is a development view showing still another example of the front body, the back body, and the sleeve portion of the upper garment (Laglan type upper garment) of the present invention.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. FIG. 1 shows a pattern (pattern) for producing a top with long sleeves formed by a set-in single sleeve (set-in sleeve), and FIG. 2 shows a sleeve formed by the single sleeve of FIG. Shows the part.

The upper garment 1 includes a front body 2 and a back body 3, and a sleeve portion 21 for forming long sleeves. The front body 2 and the rear body 3 are symmetrical with respect to the center line in the width direction (front center line (virtual line indicated by the alternate long and short dash line) 14 and rear center line (virtual line indicated by the alternate long and short dash line) 15), respectively. It is formed in a (line-symmetrical) or asymmetrical form. Therefore, in this figure, half of the front body 2 and the back body 3 are shown. The front body 2, the back body 3, and the sleeve portion 21 are made of a non-stretchable fabric and / or a non-stretchable fabric.

The front body 2 and the back body 3 have a front collar (neck) portion 5 and a rear collar (collar) 6 for forming an arc-shaped or curved collar (collar) portion 4, respectively. It is provided with an arc-shaped or curved sleeve-cutting portion (armhole) 7 for sewing with the sleeve portion, and the edges of the front-rear collar-cutting (neckline) portions 5 and 6 are the front collar-cutting lines (front collar-cutting lines), respectively. Alternatively, a linear sewn portion or seam allowance) 5a and a back collar line (or linear sewn portion or seam allowance) 6a are formed.

The edge of the sleeve portion (armhole) 7 of the front body 2 and the back body 3 has a shoulder point (a part or point corresponding to the shoulder tip in the clothes state) SP located on the shoulder line 10. Front-sleeve sewn portion 8 and rear-sleeve sewn line (or linear rear-sleeve sewn portion) having front-sleeve sewn lines (or linear front-sleeve sewn portions or sewing allowances) 8a around shoulder points, respectively. Alternatively, it forms a rear sleeve hollow portion 9 having a sewing allowance) 9a. Further, both ends of the sleeve sickle portion (armhole) 7 (the ends of the front sleeve sickle line 8a and the rear sleeve sickle line 9a) are on the side line 12 (side) in the sewn state of the front body 2 and the back body 3. It forms a sickle bottom 11 located at the bottom). That is, the intersection of the front sleeve line 8a, the rear sleeve line 9a, and the side line 12 forms the sickle bottom portion 11. In this example, the degree of curvature of the front sleeve hollow portion 8 (front sleeve hollow line (or linear sewn portion) 8a) corresponds to the part of the deltoid muscle that bulges forward of the shoulder portion, and the rear sleeve hollow portion 9 (rear sleeve hollow line (or linear sewn portion) 9a) is formed to be larger than the degree of curvature (the radius of curvature is small), and the front body 2 and the back body 3 are the hem lines forming the hem. 13 is provided.

The top of the sleeve ridge 25 of the sleeve 21 forms a shoulder point SP, and a sleeve ridge line (sleeve center) extending from this shoulder point substantially in the width direction of the sleeve 21 along the longitudinal direction of the sleeve 21. The line) 24 is divided into a front sleeve portion 22 and a rear sleeve portion 23 for sewing to the front body 2 and the back body 3, respectively. The sleeve portion 21 has a sleeve ridge portion 25 for sewing with the sleeve ridge portion 7 of the front body 2 and the back body 3, and an arm can be inserted by extending from the sleeve ridge portion to a cuff portion (not shown). A sleeve lower portion (sleeve bottom portion) 30 for forming a tubular portion is provided, and the sleeve lower portion (sleeve bottom portion) 30 has a sleeve underline 30a. The length of the sleeve ridge line of the sleeve ridge 25 corresponds to the length of the sleeve ridge (armhole) 7 of the front body 2 and the back body 3. Further, the width of the lower sleeve portion 30 may be reduced from the cuff portion 25 to the cuff portion, and the sleeve may be formed in a tapered shape or may be formed large in the cuff portion. It may be the same width as the cuffs.

The sleeve ridge 25 sewn to the armhole (sleeve ridge) 7 is a mountain-shaped first curved portion (curved) that gently curves and descends in the direction of both sides from the shoulder point SP corresponding to the shoulder tip. The front body 2 and the back body 3 are gently curved and ascended from the descending portion or the first mountain portion) 26 and the predetermined bending portion (valley portion) IP on both sides of the first curved portion. The second and third curved parts (curved rising part or the top of the second mountain part) leading to the parts (sometimes referred to as the sleeve ridge ends) 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom 11 of the sleeve ridge (armhole) 7 27, 28 (second curved portion 27 and third curved portion 28) are provided, and the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b are combined with the second and third curved portions 27 and 28. It is formed at the intersection with the under-sleeve line 30a. That is, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the second and third curved portions 27 and 28 are adjacent to both side portions of the first curved portion (first mountain portion) 26, respectively. The second and third curved portions 27 and 28 of this form are located in the lateral direction (sleeve mountain end portions 29a and 29b directions) from the curved portion (valley) IP on both sides of the first curved portion 26, respectively. It rises as it goes, and has a form that reaches the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b on both sides. Further, the edge portion (sleeve ridge line, sleeve attachment line or sleeve sewn portion) of the sleeve ridge portion 25 is the sleeve ridge line (sleeve ridge line) of the sleeve attachment portion of the first curved portion (curved descending portion or mountain-shaped curved sleeve portion) 26. Sleeve line (sleeve line or sleeve sewn part) 26a and sleeve ridge line (sleeve line or sleeve sewn part) 27a of the second and third curved parts (curved rising part) 27 and 28. It has 28a. Unlike Patent Document 4, the second and third curved portions 27 and 28 have a descending region that descends toward the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion 11 of the armhole 7 of the front body 2 and the rear body 3. I'm not prepared. In this example, the second and third curved portions (curved rising portion) 27 and 28 adjacent to the first curved portion (curved descending portion) 26 have an asymmetrical shape with the sleeve mountain line 24 as the center line. Have.

Further, of the second and third curved portions (curved rising portions) 27 and 28, the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion 11 (sewn with the ends of the curved rising portions 27 and 28 or the sickle bottom portion 11). The landing portion) is positioned at a position lower than the shoulder point SP in order to prevent it from being formed at a wrinkle portion or a bulging portion. That is, the sleeve ridge line (sleeve line or sleeve sewn portion, seam allowance) of the sleeve ridge portion 25 is the line of the first ridge portion (first curved portion) 26 and the line of the first ridge portion. The ridgeline of the gentle first mountain part (first curved part) 26 in the central part in the form of having the line of the second mountain part adjacent to both sides and lower than the top of the first mountain part. (Mountain-shaped curved line) and the ridgeline (curved inclined line) 27a, 28a of the curved inclined portion (curved ascending inclined portion) from the curved portion (valley) IP to the top of the second mountain portion. It has a provided form and does not have a descending line that descends further in the lateral direction from the top of the second mountain portion.

More specifically, in the present invention, the front body 2 and the back body are formed by forming the second and third curved portions (inclined portions of the second mountain portion) 27 and 28, which are not found in the normal sleeve portion. The design and motor functionality are improved without changing the silhouette (design) of 3. That is, in order not to impair the design, the inflection point (valley) IP is located substantially at the center of the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23, respectively, in the sleeve width direction. Specifically, when the widths of the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23 are set to "W" (sleeve width of the entire sleeve portion 21 = about 2 W) around the sleeve mountain line 24, the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear The inflection point (valley) IP of the sleeve 23 may be located in the range of 0.4 W to 0.6 W from the sleeve mountain line 24, respectively.

Further, in the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23, the lengths A and B from the shoulder point SP to the inflection point (valley) IP are respectively from the inflection point (valley) IP to the sickle bottom portion 11. It may be smaller than the lengths C and D reaching the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to. Therefore, the areas of the second and third curved portions (curved inclined portions of the second mountain portion) 27a and 28a can be increased to form a margin portion of a predetermined momentum in the lower armpit hidden from the visual field.

Furthermore, the height positions of the shoulder point SP, the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom 11, and the inflection point IP are in a positional relationship as shown in FIG. 2, as compared with the normal or conventional sleeves. It becomes. That is, a portion (sleeve ridge) corresponding to the bottom of the sickle, where the sleeve ridge line (sleeve attachment line or sleeve attachment sewn portion) of the sleeve ridge portion curves and descends from the shoulder point SP on the conventional typical or general sleeve portion. A reference sleeve (or comparative sleeve) having a single curved line (dotted line) 31 leading to the end) 32a and 32b, and in this reference sleeve, the sleeve ridge end 32a of the front sleeve and the sleeve ridge end of the rear sleeve The straight line connecting the portion 32b is set as a virtual reference straight line 33, the height of the shoulder point SP from this reference straight line is "X", and the portions (sleeve ridge ends) 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion from the reference straight line 33. When the height of is "Y", the relationship of Y = 0.7X to 0.9X may be satisfied, and when the height of the curved portion IP from the reference straight line 33 is "Z", Z The relationship <Y <X and Z = 0.55X to 0.8X may be satisfied.

The lengths C and D of the sleeve ridge lines (sleeve line or seam allowance) 27a and 28a of the sleeve attachment portions of the second and third curved portions 27 and 28 are virtual curved lines (sleeve attachment lines or seam allowances) 27a and 28a in the reference sleeve portion. Of the dotted line) 31, the inflection point IP to the sleeve mountain end 32a. It is the same as the length up to 32b.

The upper garment 1 can be produced by suturing the sleeve portion 21, the front sleeve portion 2 and the back body 3 by a conventional method. For example, the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line or sleeve attachment sewing portion 26a, 27a, 28a) of the sleeve ridge portion 25 of the sleeve portion 21 and the armhole (sleeve hollow portion) 7 (front) of the front sleeve portion 2 and the back body 3 By sewing the front sleeve line or sewn portion 8a and the back sleeve line or sewn part 9a) of the sleeve ridge 8 and the back sleeve ridge 9 to each other, the sleeve ridges of the front body 2 and the back body 3 are sewn together. It is possible to form the upper garment 1 in which a margin portion of a predetermined amount of exercise is formed in the lower armpit without adding a margin portion to the upper portion and the front and rear portions of the portion 7. As described above, by sewing the lower sleeve (or the bottom of the sleeve) 30, a tubular sleeve into which the upper arm can be inserted can be formed.

In such a top 1, the first curved portion (first mountain portion) 26 from the shoulder point SP becomes the curved line 31 of the conventional sleeve portion (reference sleeve portion) whose silhouette (design) has not been changed. Since it is along the shoulder line 10, a natural line is formed from the shoulder line 10 along the sleeve, and wrinkles and bulges are not generated. Therefore, the dough can be effectively used. Moreover, the second and third curved portions (curved inclined portions) 27 and 28 of the sleeve ridge portion 25 are different from the curved lines 31 of the conventional sleeve portion (reference sleeve portion), and the shoulder point SP increases toward both end portions. Since it curves in the direction and rises to reach the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion 11 of the armhole (sleeve hollow portion) 7, the second and third curved portions (curved inclined portions) 27 and 28 Depending on the area, when the upper arm is lowered, an exercise margin portion (exercise portion) can be formed in the lower armpit hidden from the visual field. That is, when the upper arm is extended along the sleeve portion 21 (or the tubular portion of the sleeve portion 21), the upper arm is located at the lower armpit as shown by the circular chain line in FIG. In the lowered state, the exercise margin can be hidden in the lower armpit. Therefore, even if a long-sleeved top is made of a non-stretchable fabric or a non-stretchable fabric without forming a bias in the lower part of the side sleeves, at least a vertical momentum can be secured without impairing the appearance design. Therefore, it is useful as a top that often moves the upper arm up and down when commuting to work, school, going to bed, etc., such as a shirt, blouse, jacket, and pajamas.

In the set-in sleeve, a seam between the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23 is formed along the sleeve bottom (or sleeve bottom) corresponding to the sleeve underline 30a. Such a seam (or sleeve underline) is formed at a predetermined position in the sleeve width direction by changing the position of the sleeve underline or the switching line (position in the width direction) in the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23. Can be formed along the longitudinal direction of.

4 and 5 show other patterns (patterns) for making tops formed with set-in single sleeves. The parts having the same functions as those in FIGS. 1 and 2 and the parts having the same functions will be described with the same reference numerals (hereinafter, the same). Further, FIG. 5 illustrates half of the front body 42 and the back body 43. Further, in order to show the relationship with the sleeve portions shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, FIG. 5 shows the virtual curved line 31 and the sleeve ridge end portion 32a shown in FIG. 2 for reference. 32b is shown by a broken line.

As shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, the upper garment 41 includes a front body 42 and a back body 43, and a sleeve portion 61 for long sleeves, and the front body 42 and the back body 43, respectively, have a front collar (front collar). It is provided with a neck part 45, a rear collar part 46, and an arc-shaped or curved sleeve part (armhole) 47 for sewing with the sleeve part 61, and the front and rear collars (collar) are provided. The drilling portions 45 and 46 form an arc-shaped or curved neckline portion. The sleeve-cutting portion (armhole) 47 has a sickle bottom portion 51 located on the side line 52 (lower armpit) when the front body 42 and the back body 43 are sewn together. That is, the sleeve section (armhole) 47 has a front sleeve section 48 having a front sleeve section 48a and a rear sleeve section 49 having a rear sleeve line 49a, and the front sleeve section 48a. The intersection of the back sleeve line 49a and the side line 52 forms the bottom 51 of the sickle. The front body 42 and the rear body 43 are asymmetric with respect to the center line in the width direction (front center line (virtual line indicated by the alternate long and short dash line) 44a and rear center line (virtual line indicated by the alternate long and short dash line) 44b), respectively. Or it is formed in a symmetric (line symmetric) form.

The sleeve portion (armhole) 47 has a shoulder point (a portion or point corresponding to the tip of the shoulder in the clothesed state) SP located on the shoulder line 50, similarly to the above.

On the other hand, the sleeve portion 61 has a form in which a switching line 62a is formed on the rear sleeve portion 23 (that is, a part of the rear sleeve portion 23 is moved or shifted adjacent to the front sleeve portion 23 in the width direction). doing. That is, as shown in FIG. 5, in FIGS. 1 and 2, a second curved portion (curved rising portion) 27 located on one side portion in the width direction and a second curved portion (curved rising portion) 27 located on the other side portion in the width direction are located. The third curved portion (curved rising portion) 28 shares a sleeve underline 30a from the top 29 and is adjacent to each other to form a second mountain portion (mountain-shaped curved portion); the second The mountain portions 27 and 28 have a form adjacent to one side portion of the first curved portion (first mountain portion) 26. In the example shown in FIG. 5, in the form of the sleeve portion 21 shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the rear sleeve 23 is separated along the switching line 62a extending in the longitudinal direction from the curved portion (valley) IP. A second rear sleeve portion (remaining rear sleeve portion) 23a remaining as the rear sleeve portion 23; a second rear sleeve portion 23a separated from the rear sleeve portion 23 and connected or located adjacent to the sleeve underline 30a of the front sleeve portion 22. It has a form including a rear sleeve portion (connecting rear sleeve portion) 23b; the second rear sleeve portion (connecting rear sleeve portion) 23b corresponds to the third curved portion 28.

More specifically, in the example shown in FIG. 5, the bending portion (valley) IP is located in the central portion (or central region) in the width direction, and both sides of the bending portion (valley) IP in the central portion. The first curved portion (first mountain portion) 26 and the second mountain portion (mountain portion formed by adjoining the second curved portion 27 and the third curved portion 28) are adjacent to each other. Both ends of the sleeve ridge 25 (both ends of the sleeve ridge line 26a) also have a shape in which the bending portion (valley) IP is located. Further, the rear sleeve portion 23 includes a first rear sleeve portion 23a located on the sleeve ridge line 24 side and a second rear sleeve portion 23b located on the sleeve underline 30a side. The sleeve ridge 25 is a curved portion that gently curves and descends in the direction of both sides around the shoulder point SP located on the sleeve ridge line 24 that separates the front sleeve portion 22 and the rear sleeve portion 23 (23a, 23b). (Tani part) The first curved part (first mountain part) 26 leading to the IP; and the top 29 formed by adjoining the second and third curved parts 27 and 28 with the sleeve underline 30a as the center. It is provided with a second ridge having (corresponding to the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b of the sleeve 21 shown in FIGS. 1 and 2), and the second ridge is oriented from the top 29 to both sides. Each of them has a sleeve ridge line that gently curves and descends to reach the curved portion (valley) IP of the central portion and the curved portion (valley) IP of one end of the front sleeve portion 22. The top 29 of the second mountain portions 27 and 28 is sewn to the sickle bottom portion 51 of the sleeve portion (armhole) 47.

In such a set-in type top, since the switching line 62a is formed on the back sleeve portion 23, the seam between the front sleeve portion 23 and the back sleeve portion 23 is formed on the back sleeve portion 23 instead of the lower sleeve portion. it can. Further, similarly to the set-in type upper garment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, a margin portion (exercise portion) can be formed in the lower armpit, and the motor functionality can be enhanced without impairing the appearance and design.

The sleeves of the upper garment are not limited to set-in sleeves, and may be raglan sleeves (raglan sleeves) in which a part of the body is combined with the sleeves. FIG. 6 shows a raglan type top.

The raglan type upper garment 71 has a front body 72 and a back body 73, and a neckline portion 74 (front collar part 75 and a back collar part 76) formed on the front body 72 and the back body 73. The sleeve portion 81 extends along the sleeve ridge line (sleeve center line) 24 in place of the first curved portion of the set-in type shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, and the front collar portion of the front body 72 is provided. It has an extension portion 86 provided with an intermediate collar portion 86a located between the back collar portion 76 of the back body 73 and the rear collar portion 76 and forming a part of the collar portion 74.

Further, the front body 72 and the back body 73 each have a front sleeve sewn line (or front sleeve sewn portion, raglan line) 78a having a gentle S-shaped curve from both ends of the intermediate collar sewn portion 86a. A sleeve section (armhole) having a sleeve section 78 and a rear sleeve section 79 having a back sleeve line (or a rear sleeve line (or a raglan line) 79a) and a sleeve line (or a sleeve line). ) 77 is formed. The sleeve hollow portion (armhole) 77 has a sickle bottom portion 11, and the sickle bottom portion 11 is formed at an intersection of a front sleeve hollow line 78a, a rear sleeve hollow line 79a, and a side line 12. Further, the front sleeve hollow line 78a and the rear sleeve hollow line 79a corresponding to the raglan wire have a higher degree of curvature toward the sickle bottom portion 11, and are formed relatively linearly on the intermediate collar hollow portion 86a side. In addition, in the raglan type top, the sleeves are contained in the shoulder point SP at the shoulder and the lower part of the sleeve (sickle bottom 11) instead of the sleeve ridged part by the raglan line of the body (front body 72 and back body 73). A portion (for example, a tubular portion extending to the lower part of the sleeve side (sickle bottom portion 11) orthogonal to the extension line of the shoulder line) can be used as an armhole.

The sleeve portion 81, which is attached to the sleeve portion (armhole) 77 of the front body 72 and the back body 73, is divided into a front sleeve portion 82 and a rear sleeve portion 83 by the sleeve mountain line 24, and the front sleeve portion In the 82 and the rear sleeve portion 83, the sleeve attachment portion of the extension portion 86 is the front sleeve attachment line (or sleeve attachment) of the second and third curved portions (curved sleeve attachment portions) 87 and 88 located on both side portions. It is provided with a sewn portion) 87a and a rear sleeve attachment line (or sleeve attachment sewn portion) 88a. Further, the sleeve attachment portion of the extension portion 86 includes an extension front sleeve attachment line (or sleeve attachment sewing portion) 87b and an extension rear sleeve attachment line (or sleeve attachment sewing portion) 88b as a lagran wire. There is. Similarly, the ends of the front sleeve attachment line 87a and the rear sleeve attachment line 88a are the sickle bottom portions of the sleeve hollows (armholes) 77 of the front body 72 and the back body 73 at the intersections with the sleeve underline 30a. The portions (sleeve ridge ends) 29a and 29b corresponding to No. 11 are formed. The extended front sleeve attachment line 87b and the extended rear sleeve attachment line 88b, and the front sleeve attachment line 87a and the rear sleeve attachment line 88a form a continuous and smooth curve via the curved portion IP. The front sleeve sewn line (or front sleeve sewn portion) 78a and the rear sleeve sewn line (or rear sleeve sewn portion) 79a can be sewn to each other.

In the illustrated raglan type top, the mountain portion (or area) located on the cuff side of the sleeve portion 81 can be used as the sleeve peak portion with reference to the shoulder point SP located at the tip of the shoulder. The sleeve ridge has the same shape as shown in FIGS. 1 to 3. The first curved portion (mountain-shaped curved portion or sleeve mountain line) of the sleeve ridge portion 25 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 is indicated by a chain line.

That is, of the second and third curved portions (curved rising portions) 87 and 88, the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion 11 (sewn with the ends of the curved rising portions 87 and 88 or the sickle bottom portion 11). The landing portion) is positioned at a position lower than the shoulder point SP in the same manner as described above.

Similar to the set-in type top, the raglan type top 71 can also form a margin portion in the lower part of the side sleeves, can improve the motor functionality, and does not impair the design and appearance quality.

The raglan sleeves are semi-raglan sleeves that are switched from the middle of the shoulder line toward the armpits; split raglan sleeves with the rear sleeves in the form of raglan sleeves and the front sleeves in the form of set-in sleeves. There may be.

The upper garment (jacket) of the present invention may be provided with a front body, a back body, and sleeves, and the body (front body and back body), if necessary, for example, front body 2,42, 72 front sleeve sewn portions 8a, 78a and / or rear body 3,43,73 rear sleeve sewn portions 9a, 79a, front sleeve sewn portions 27a, 87a and front sleeve portions 22,82 / Or the rear sleeve sewn portions 28a, 88a of the rear sleeve portions 23, 83 are subjected to large sleeve cutting, gusset, tack, pleating, etc., and a margin portion that swells in the upper direction and / or the front-back direction of the shoulder portion. (Movement portion) may be formed, but in the present invention, a margin portion (or a margin portion) of a predetermined amount of exercise can be formed in the lower part of the side sleeve without adding such a margin portion, and the movement of the arm Can be made to follow. Further, if necessary, a bias may be formed in the lower part of the armpit sleeve, but in the present invention, a margin portion (or a space portion) for a predetermined momentum can be formed in the lower part of the armpit sleeve without forming the bias. That is, in the present invention, since it is not necessary to change the silhouettes of the front body and the back body, the sleeves, the front sleeves, and the back sleeves can be used without adding a margin to the sleeves of the front and back bodies. By sewing them together, a natural line can be formed from the shoulder to the arm in the clothes state, the design and appearance quality can be improved, and a margin (or a space) can be formed in the lower part of the side sleeves. ..

The sleeve-cutting lines (sleeve-cutting sewn portions) of the front body 2, 42, 72 and the back body 3, 43, 73 may have a symmetrical shape centered on the shoulder line, but are often asymmetrical. Depending on the body shape, the degree of curvature (or radius of curvature) of the front sleeve sewn line (front sleeve sewn part) 8a of the front body 2,42,72 is the rear sleeve sewn line (rear) of the back body 3,43,73. It may be larger or smaller than the degree of curvature (or radius of curvature) of the sleeve-cutting portion) 9a.

Unlike Patent Document 2, the first curved portion (for example, the first mountain portion) 26 forming the sleeve ridges 25 of the sleeves 21, 61, 81 in the clothes and unfolded states has shoulder points on both sides. It suffices to have a line (sleeve ridge line or sleeve sewn part) that curves and descends from the shoulder point without forming a ridge that curves from and rises and descends, and is usually a gentle curve. Often the line. In particular, the first curved portion 26 often has a mountain-shaped form (first mountain portion) that curves and descends in the direction of both sides from the shoulder point. The front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion may have an asymmetrical shape or a symmetrical shape centered on the sleeve ridge line, and the degree of curvature of the front sleeve portion line (front sleeve ridge line or front sleeve sewn portion) depending on the body shape. May be larger or smaller than the degree of curvature of the rear sleeve portion line (rear sleeve mountain line or rear sleeve sewn portion), and may have different curved shapes.

In the dressed state and the unfolded state, the second curved portions 27,87 and the third curved portions 28,88 are curved and rise from the predetermined inflection portion (valley portion) of the first curved portion 26. , The front body and the rear body have a shape extending to the sickle bottom of the armhole (curved and inclined shape), and the second and third curved parts are usually different from Patent Document 4 in that the front body and the rear body In many cases, it does not have a descending area that descends toward the part corresponding to the bottom of the sickle of the armhole on the back body (the end of the sleeve). That is, the second and third curved portions include at least the form of a curved ridge line that rises (slowly bulges) from the inflection portion (valley portion) toward the side portion (sleeve ridge end portion). For example, a chevron-shaped ridge may have a shape of a ridge extending from at least the hem to the top or middle of the mountain.

Further, in the unfolded state, the second curved portion and the third curved portion of the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion are formed on both sides of the first curved portion (first ridge portion) via the curved portion. It may be located, sharing the underline of the sleeve to form a mountain-shaped curved portion (second mountain portion), and is located on one side of the first curved portion via the curved portion. You may. The sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion may have, for example, any of the following forms (1) or (2).

(1) A mountain-shaped first curved portion (first mountain portion) that curves and descends from the shoulder point in the direction of both sides, and a second curved portion and a second curved portion on both sides of the first curved portion, respectively. Form in which the curved portion of 3 is located (2) The first curved portion (first mountain portion) that curves and descends in the direction of both sides from the shoulder point, and one side portion of the first curved portion. , A form in which a mountain-shaped curved portion (second mountain portion) formed by sharing a sleeve underline between a second curved portion and a third curved portion is located.

For example, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the basic form is a form in which the second curved portion and the third curved portion are adjacent to both side portions of the first curved portion (first mountain portion), respectively. In the case of (form (1)), the form (2) can be changed, and in this modified form (2), the desired sleeve portion is placed at an appropriate position in the width direction of the sleeve portion of the basic form. A switching line may be formed in the longitudinal direction corresponding to the position of the seam line to form a sleeve portion as shown in FIG. Further, in the modified form (2), the switching line (and the under-sleeve line) can be formed at an appropriate position on the front sleeve portion 22 and / or the rear sleeve portion 23 so as to correspond to the seam line of the sleeve portion, and the switching line is described above. Not limited to the modified part (valley) IP of the rear sleeve portion, the portion adjacent to the modified portion IP of the rear sleeve portion 23, the modified portion (valley) IP of the front sleeve portion 22 or adjacent to this modified portion. It may be formed on a site or the like. Therefore, in the basic form (1), the second curved portion located on one side of the first curved portion (first mountain portion) is inclined from one hem to one on the chevron-shaped ridgeline. It rises (curves and slopes) along the part, passes through the top, and descends toward the part corresponding to the bottom of the sickle (sleeve ridge end) to the middle part (sleeve bottom line or connecting line) of the other slope. The third curved portion, which has a hemispherical shape and is located on the other side, has an inclined piece-like shape that descends from the middle portion (sleeve underline or connecting line) of the second curved portion to the other hem. It may have a form; contrary to the above, the second curved portion may have an inclined piece-shaped form and the third curved portion may have a hemispherical form; a modified form (2). In the semi-mountain-shaped second curved portion and the inclined piece-shaped third curved portion, the second curved portion (or the connecting line) shares the under-sleeve line (or the connecting line) to form the second peak portion (to the first peak portion). An adjacent second ridge) may be formed. Normally, the second curved portion and the third curved portion have a ridge shape from the hem to the top of the mountain without descending from the top of the chevron to reach the end of the sleeve. There are many. The second curved portion and the third curved portion may have a line-symmetrical form centered on the underline of the sleeve, but usually have an asymmetrical form in many cases.

In the sleeve width direction, the inflection point (valley or inflection point) of the sleeve ridge is moved away from the appropriate position (center, sleeve ridge line side, or sleeve ridge line) in the front sleeve and back sleeve, respectively, depending on the body shape. It may be located on the lower side of the sleeve), and when the width of the front sleeve and the back sleeve is "W", 0.25W to 0.8W, preferably 0.3W to 0.7W from the sleeve mountain line. , More preferably, it may be formed at a position of about 0.4 W to 0.6 W (for example, 0.45 W to 0.55 W). If the inflection point (or inflection point) is too close to the sleeve mountain line side, the design tends to deteriorate, and if it is too far from the sleeve mountain line, the momentum in the margin part due to the second and third curved parts is small. Become. Therefore, in the clothes state, the inflection point is often located at the center of the front sleeve and the back sleeve in the sleeve width direction. The position of the inflection point (valley or inflection point) is the point where the first curved portion, the second curved portion, and the third curved portion intersect (the point where the curvature becomes "0"). Can be.

Further, in the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion, the length from the shoulder point to the inflection point (valley) and the inflection point (valley) to the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom (sickle mountain end), respectively. The lengths may be the same or different from each other. For example, as described above, in the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion, the length from the shoulder point to the curved portion is set to "A" and "B", and the portion corresponding to the curved portion to the sickle bottom portion (sleeve mountain end). Even if the relations of C <A, C = A, C> A and D <B, D = B, D> B are satisfied, respectively, when the length to the part) is set to "C" and "D", respectively. Often, "C" and "D" may be equal to or greater than "A" and "B", respectively (C ≧ A and D ≧ B), and are often particularly large (C> A). And D> B). If the lengths "A" and "B" from the shoulder point to the inflection point are too large, the momentum in the margin due to the second and third curved parts will be small, and if it is too small, wrinkles and wrinkles will appear on the shoulders. The bulging part and the like are likely to be generated, and the design is deteriorated.

Further, of the second and third curved portions, the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom portion (the end of the sleeve ridge, the end of the second and third curved portions or the curved rising portion) is equivalent to (or the same as) the shoulder point. ) Or the shoulder point is also located at a low position. For example, as shown in FIG. 2, the conventional typical or general sleeve portion, that is, the sleeve ridge line (sleeve attachment line or sleeve attachment sewn portion) of the sleeve ridge portion is curved and descends from the shoulder point SP. A reference sleeve (or comparative sleeve) having a single virtual curved line (dotted line) 31 extending to the part corresponding to the bottom of the sickle (sleeve ridge end) 32a, 32b, and the front sleeve in this reference sleeve. The straight line connecting the sleeve ridge end 32a and the sleeve ridge end 32b of the rear sleeve is set as a virtual reference straight line (auxiliary line) 33, the height of the shoulder point SP from this reference straight line is "X", and the reference straight line (auxiliary). When the heights of the parts (sleeve ridge ends) 29a and 29b corresponding to the bottom of the sickle from the line) 33 are "Y" and the height of the curved part IP from the reference straight line 33 is "Z", these The relationship between the heights "X", "Y", and "Z" may be as follows. That is, the height "Y" at the end of the sleeve ridge may be equal to or the same as the height "X" of the shoulder point SP (Y≈X), and is usually lower than the height "X" (Y <. X) In many cases. The height "Y" at the end of the sleeve ridge is, for example, 30 to 98% (for example, 40 to 95%), preferably 50 to 97% (for example, 60 to 60) with respect to the height "X" of the shoulder point SP. 90%), more preferably 70-95% (eg, 75-90%), and in particular 80-95% (eg, 85-90%). The height "Z" of the inflection point IP is, for example, 20 to 85% (for example, 30 to 80%), preferably 50 to 80% (for example, 55) with respect to the height "X" of the shoulder point SP. It may be about ~ 75%), more preferably about 60 to 75% (for example, 60 to 70%). The height "Z" of the inflection point IP is usually smaller than the height "Y" of the sleeve ridge end.

The sleeves may be asymmetrical or symmetrical in the vertical and horizontal directions, and as described above, they are usually asymmetrical in many cases. Further, the sleeve portion (set-in sleeve, etc.) is not limited to one sleeve, and may be two sleeves. Such a double sleeve can be formed by two sleeves (for example, an outer sleeve and an inner sleeve) corresponding to the front sleeve and the rear sleeve, and the seams (seam) of the two sleeves. Does not need to extend from under the sleeve (or the bottom of the sleeve), unlike the examples shown in FIGS.

Further, the upper garment may be provided with either a set-in sleeve (set-in sleep) or a raglan sleeve (raglan sleeve). Since the present invention can form a margin (or a space) in the lower armpit, it can be suitably applied to set-in sleeves, and is effective for tops provided with the set-in sleeves.

In the present invention, the sleeve portion, the front sleeve portion, and the rear sleeve portion are sewn to each other without adding a margin portion to the sleeve portion of the front body and the back body, thereby forming the second and third curved portions. Depending on the area (area), a margin (exercise part) can be provided to the lower armpit, and when the upper arm is lowered, the margin part can be hidden under the armpit, and even if the upper arm is raised upward, the amount of pulling of the body Can be absorbed by the moving part, and there is no feeling of tension. Therefore, the design and motor functionality can be improved regardless of whether the upper garment has long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, five-quarter sleeves, or short sleeves. In particular, as the sleeves become longer, the pulling amount of the body increases as the upper arm moves upward, but the pulling amount can be absorbed by the margin portion of the lower armpit. Further, although the fabric may be an elastic fabric, as described above, even if a non-stretchable fabric in which the pulling force of the body acts greatly as the upper arm moves upward is used, the design and the motor function You can improve your sex. Therefore, the present invention is useful for forming tops with long sleeves from non-stretchable or non-stretchable fabrics.

The upper garment of the present invention may be made of a stretchable fabric, but even a non-stretchable fabric and / or a fabric having little elasticity can secure a momentum. Therefore, it is effective for tops using non-stretchable fabrics and / or fabrics that are difficult to stretch. Further, the upper garment of the present invention may have long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, five-quarter sleeves, short sleeves and the like. In general, the longer the sleeves, the lower the mobility, but the upper garment of the present invention can increase the amount of exercise even if the sleeves are long. Therefore, it can be effectively applied to tops with long sleeves such as long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, and three-quarter sleeves.

When the fabric is measured in accordance with the JIS L 1096 A method (strip method), for example, the elongation at break in the vertical direction is 0 to 30%, preferably 1 to 25%, and more preferably 3 to 15. The dough may be about%.

Since the present invention has motor functionality and design, it can also be used as a top that moves the upper arm greatly (sports top, work top, school uniform, sailor suit, white coat, etc.), and can be used for indoor and outdoor tops. It may be either. For example, casual shirts, business shirts, polo shirts, T-shirts, blouses and other shirts (or tops), pajamas, jackets, jumpers, down jackets, blazer jackets, trench coats, raincoats and other coats, etc. It can be applied to dresses, dresses and other dresses, and binders. In particular, it is effective for tops that require design and athletic functionality, such as shirts (in particular, casual shirts, business shirts, and blouses) and pajamas.

1,41,71 ... Top garment 2,42,72 ... Front body 3,43,73 ... Back body 7,47,77 ... Sleeve hollow (armhole)
8,48,78 ... Front sleeves 9,49,79 ... Rear sleeves 11,51 ... Sickle bottom 21,61,81 ... Sleeves 22,82 ... Front sleeves 23 (23a, 23b), 83 ... Back sleeve 24 ... Sleeve mountain line (sleeve center line)
25 ... Sleeve ridge 26 ... First curved portion 27,87 ... Second curved portion 28,88 ... Third curved portion 29a, 29b ... Part corresponding to the bottom of the sickle (Sleeve ridge end)
SP ... Shoulder point IP ... Inflection point (Tanibe)

As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors devised the shape of the sleeve portion without changing the silhouette of the body, and curved the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion from the shoulder point toward both sides. A first curved portion (curved descending portion) that descends, and a second and second curved portion that curves and rises from a predetermined curved portion of the first curved portion to reach the sickle bottom of the armholes of the front body and the rear body. It is formed by the curved portion (curved rising portion) of 3, and the position of the portion (sleeve ridge end portion) corresponding to the sickle bottom portion of the second and third curved portions is equal to (or the same as) the shoulder point or the shoulder. It was found that when the position is lower than the point, a margin portion can be formed under the sleeve by the second and third curved portions without changing the silhouette of the body, and it is possible to achieve both motor functionality and design. Was completed.

That is, the upper garment of the present invention includes a body (front body and back body) and a sleeve portion, and in the garment state, the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion curves and descends from the shoulder point corresponding to the shoulder tip. 1 curved portion (curved descending portion that curves in the direction of both sides and descends) and a curved descending portion that is located on both sides of the first curved portion and is curved from a predetermined inflection portion of the first curved portion. It is provided with second and third curved portions (curved rising portions) that rise to reach the sickle bottom of the armholes of the front body and the rear body. Of the second and third curved portions (curved rising portion), the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom portion (the end portion of the curved rising portion or the sewn portion with the sickle bottom portion) is equal to or larger than the shoulder point. It is located in a low position. That is, the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the sleeve ridge portion includes the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the first curved portion (curved lowering portion) and the second and third curved portions (curved rising portion). ) Sleeve attachment part (sleeve attachment line), and the part (sleeve attachment line) corresponding to the sickle bottom portion of the sleeve attachment portion (sleeve attachment line) of the second and third bending portions (curvature rising portion). The sewn portion with the bottom portion) is located at a position equal to or lower than the shoulder point. By using such sleeves, without changing the body silhouette, yet without sleeves extending upwardly from the shoulder line, it can form an extra Yutaka portion underarm by the second and third curved portions. Therefore, the design (appearance quality) and the motor functionality (for example, the motor functionality in the vertical direction) can be enhanced.

Therefore, in the gown of the present invention, it is formed by a non-stretchable fabric and / or stretch-resisting fabric, can impart extra Yutaka portion underarm by the second and third regions of curvature of, can be secured momentum. It may also have at least one type of sleeve selected from long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, half-sleeve and short sleeves.

In such a top 1, the first curved portion (first mountain portion) 26 from the shoulder point SP becomes the curved line 31 of the conventional sleeve portion (reference sleeve portion) whose silhouette (design) has not been changed. Since it is along the shoulder line 10, a natural line is formed from the shoulder line 10 along the sleeve, and wrinkles and bulges are not generated. Therefore, the dough can be effectively used. Moreover, the second and third curved portions (curved inclined portions) 27 and 28 of the sleeve ridge portion 25 are different from the curved lines 31 of the conventional sleeve portion (reference sleeve portion), and the shoulder point SP increases toward both end portions. Since it curves in the direction and rises to reach the sleeve ridge ends 29a and 29b corresponding to the sickle bottom portion 11 of the armhole (sleeve hollow portion) 7, the second and third curved portions (curved inclined portions) 27 and 28 the area, in a state where down the upper arm can be formed an extra Yutaka portion underarm hidden from view. That is, when extending the upper arm along the sleeve portion 21 (or the cylindrical portion of the sleeve portion 21), as indicated by the circular dashed line in FIG. 3, since the extra Hiroshi portion underarm is located, in a state where down the upper arm , it can be hidden extra Yutaka portion underarm. Therefore, even if a long-sleeved top is made of a non-stretchable fabric or a non-stretchable fabric without forming a bias in the lower part of the side sleeves, at least a vertical momentum can be secured without impairing the appearance design. Therefore, it is useful as a top that often moves the upper arm up and down when commuting to work, school, going to bed, etc., such as a shirt, blouse, jacket, and pajamas.

In such a set-in type top, since the switching line 62a is formed on the back sleeve portion 23, the seam between the front sleeve portion 23 and the back sleeve portion 23 is formed on the back sleeve portion 23 instead of the lower sleeve portion. it can. Further, similarly to the set-in type upper garment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, a margin portion can be formed in the lower armpit, and the motor functionality can be enhanced without impairing the appearance and design.

The upper garment (jacket) of the present invention may be provided with a front body, a back body, and sleeves, and the body (front body and back body), if necessary, for example, front body 2,42, 72 front sleeve sewn portions 8a, 78a and / or rear body 3,43,73 rear sleeve sewn portions 9a, 79a, front sleeve sewn portions 27a, 87a and front sleeve portions 22,82 / or armhole sewn portion 28a of the rear sleeve portion 23,83 and to the 88a, large armhole, gore, subjected to such tucks and pleating, margin portion bulging upwardly and / or longitudinal direction of the shoulder portion formed may be but the, in the present invention, without adding such margin portion, a margin of a predetermined momentum to the lower Wakisode can be formed (or clear portions), it is made to follow the movement of the arm Can be done. Further, if necessary, a bias may be formed in the lower part of the armpit sleeve, but in the present invention, a margin portion (or a space portion) for a predetermined momentum can be formed in the lower part of the armpit sleeve without forming the bias. That is, in the present invention, since it is not necessary to change the silhouettes of the front body and the back body, the sleeves, the front sleeves, and the back sleeves can be used without adding a margin to the sleeves of the front and back bodies. By sewing each other, a natural line can be formed from the shoulder to the arm in the clothes state, the design and appearance quality can be improved, and a margin (or a space) can be formed in the lower part of the side sleeves. ..

In the present invention, the sleeve portion, the front sleeve portion, and the rear sleeve portion are sewn to each other without adding a margin portion to the sleeve portion of the front body and the back body, thereby forming the second and third curved portions. region (area) margin portions can be applied to underarms by, in the state where the upper arm was lowered down, can hide a margin portion armpit, even raising the upper arm upward, the tensile amount of body margin portion It can be absorbed with, and there is no feeling of tension. Therefore, the design and motor functionality can be improved regardless of whether the upper garment has long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, five-quarter sleeves, or short sleeves. In particular, as the sleeves become longer, the pulling amount of the body increases as the upper arm moves upward, but the pulling amount can be absorbed by the margin portion of the lower armpit. Further, the fabric may be a stretchable fabric, but as described above, even if a non-stretchable fabric in which the pulling force of the body acts greatly as the upper arm moves upward is used, the design and the motor function You can improve your sex. Therefore, the present invention is useful for forming tops with long sleeves from non-stretchable or non-stretchable fabrics.

Claims (8)

A top with front and back bodies and sleeves
In the clothes state, the sleeve ridge portion of the sleeve portion is located on both sides of the first curved portion that curves and descends from the shoulder point corresponding to the shoulder tip and the first curved portion, and the first curved portion. It is provided with a second and a third curved portion that curves and rises from a predetermined inflection point of the above and reaches the sickle bottom of the armhole of the front body and the rear body, and the second and third curved portions. The upper garment in which the portion corresponding to the bottom of the sickle is located at a position equal to or lower than the shoulder point. The top according to claim 1, wherein the sleeve ridge of the sleeve has any of the following forms (1) or (2) in the unfolded state.
(1) A mountain-shaped first curved portion that curves and descends from the shoulder point in the direction of both sides, and a second curved portion and a third curved portion are located on both sides of the first curved portion, respectively. (2) A first curved portion that curves and descends in the direction of both sides from the shoulder point, and a second curved portion and a third curved portion are formed on one side of the first curved portion. A form in which a mountain-shaped curved part formed by sharing the underline of the sleeve is located The upper garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the sleeve portion, the front sleeve portion, and the back sleeve portion are sewn to each other without adding a margin portion to the sleeve portion of the front body and the back body. Claims 1 to 3 that the length from the inflection point to the portion corresponding to the sickle bottom is equal to or larger than the length from the inflection point to the inflection point in the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion of the sleeve portion, respectively. Tops listed in either. The upper garment according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the inflection point is located at the center of the front sleeve portion and the rear sleeve portion in the sleeve width direction in the clothes state. The top according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is made of a non-stretchable fabric and / or a non-stretchable fabric. The garment according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising at least one type of sleeve selected from long sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, half sleeves and short sleeves. The upper garment according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein a moving portion is provided to the lower armpit by the region of the second and third curved portions.

Images