JP6172812B2 - Jacket - Google Patents

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JP6172812B2
JP6172812B2 JP2014157269A JP2014157269A JP6172812B2 JP 6172812 B2 JP6172812 B2 JP 6172812B2 JP 2014157269 A JP2014157269 A JP 2014157269A JP 2014157269 A JP2014157269 A JP 2014157269A JP 6172812 B2 JP6172812 B2 JP 6172812B2
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inner sleeve
fabric
arm
parts
outerwear
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JP2016035115A (en
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鈴木 康彦
康彦 鈴木
惠子 宮下
惠子 宮下
昭治 小塚
昭治 小塚
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株式会社チクマ
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Description

本発明は、腕を前方や上方に動かす際にも、腕、脇、背中の生地が突っ張らなくして円滑に着こなすことができる上着に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a jacket that can be worn smoothly without moving the fabric of the arms, sides, and back even when the arms are moved forward or upward.

従来、上着を着て、二の腕を前方や上方に動かすと、上着の腕、脇、背中が引張られて、その部分に突っ張り感が生じて、不快に感じるという問題及び腕の可動範囲が狭いという問題があった(図4)。   Conventionally, when wearing a jacket and moving the upper arm forward or upward, the arm, armpits, and back of the jacket are pulled, and there is a problem that the part feels uncomfortable and the range of movement of the arm There was a problem of being narrow (FIG. 4).

そこで、従来、部分的に伸縮生地を用いることが行われており、例えば、内袖部と脇部、身頃部と脇部、身頃部と外袖部、との間に伸縮生地を縫合して、その伸縮生地の伸縮性によって、身体を左右に大きく捻ったり腕を振り上げても、突っ張り感が生じさせないとするゴルフシャツの先行技術が開示されている(参考文献1)。   Therefore, conventionally, stretch fabric is partially used. For example, the stretch fabric is sewn between the inner sleeve portion and the side portion, the body portion and the side portion, and the body portion and the outer sleeve portion. The prior art of a golf shirt is disclosed in which the stretchability of the stretchable fabric does not cause a sense of tension even if the body is twisted to the left or right or the arm is lifted up (Reference 1).

特開2012−007252号公報JP 2012-007252 A

特許文献1の先行技術には、内袖部と脇部、身頃部と脇部、身頃部と外袖部、との間に伸縮生地を縫合することによって、身体を左右に大きく捻ったり腕を振り上げても、突っ張り感が生じないことが開示されているが、例えば、ブレザーやスーツの上着のように外観が重要であって、外側を一種類の生地を用いて縫製する上着には、素材や柄を異にする伸縮生地は使用出来ないという問題があった。また、特許文献1の先行技術は、通常の生地の他に別途伸縮生地が必要となるので材料費が余計にかかり、また、縫製の手間も余計にかかるという問題があった。   In the prior art of Patent Document 1, a stretchable fabric is stitched between the inner sleeve and the side, the body and the side, and the body and the outer sleeve, so that the body can be largely twisted left and right or the arm can be Although it is disclosed that even if it is swung up, there is no feeling of tension, for example, the outer appearance is important like a blazer or suit outerwear, and the outerwear that is sewn using one kind of fabric There was a problem that stretch fabrics with different materials and patterns could not be used. In addition, the prior art of Patent Document 1 has a problem that extra stretch fabric is required in addition to normal fabric, so that the material cost is excessive and the labor of sewing is also excessive.

本発明は、これらの問題を解決したものであって、脇部品と内袖部品を一体にして、脇の下の位置にマチ部を設けることによって、マチ部そのものの伸縮作用と生地がバイアス方向に伸びるという作用とを利用して、腕を胸周りにまわしても生地が突っ張らないので、着ている人に不快感を与えず、また、腕の可動範囲が大きくなる上着を提供するものである。   The present invention solves these problems. The side part and the inner sleeve part are integrated, and the gusset part is provided at the position of the armpit, so that the expansion and contraction action of the gusset part itself and the fabric extend in the bias direction. By using this action, the fabric does not stretch even if the arm is turned around the chest, so that the person wearing it does not feel uncomfortable and the arm's movable range is provided. .

上記の目的を達成するために、本願発明の請求項1に係る上着は、脇部品と内袖部品とを構成部品にした上着において、少なくとも脇の下の位置で前記脇部品と前記内袖部品とが一体のパーツとなっており、該パーツの生地が、脇の背丈方向が縦地に、内袖の袖丈方向が横地になるようにし、また、該パーツの形状が、前記脇の下の位置で逆L字型の略直角形状をなすと共に、該略直角形状部分の外側の角と内側の角とを結んだ線を脇部分と内袖部分の境界線とし、該パーツの該略直角部分の境界線より下側の該脇部品を前後の身頃部品と、前記境界線より上側の該内袖部品を外袖部品と、に接続するように設けたことを特徴とする。 In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the outer garment according to claim 1 of the present invention is an outer garment comprising a side part and an inner sleeve part as constituent parts, and the side part and the inner sleeve part at least under the armpit position. theft has become an integral part, the fabric of the parts, the vertical location is the side of the back length direction, as sleeve length direction of the inner sleeve is next to land, also, the shape of the part is, of the armpits position with inverted L-shape to a substantially right angle shape, a line connecting the outer corner and inner corner of the symbolic right-angled portion and the boundary line of the side portion and inner sleeves, the symbolic of the part and front and back parts of the lower該脇component boundary line of the right-angled portion, and wherein the the set only to connect the inner sleeve parts of the upper of the boundary line and the outer sleeve part, the.

この構成を採用することにより、脇部品と内袖部品が一体のパーツとなっていて、該パーツは、脇の下の位置で略直角に曲がった逆L字形状をしており、また、該パーツの生地の布目方向は、脇の背丈方向が縦地、内袖の袖丈方向が横地となっている。 By adopting this configuration, the side part and the inner sleeve part are an integral part, and the part has an inverted L shape that is bent at a substantially right angle at the position of the armpit. As for the cloth direction of the fabric, the side length of the side is vertical and the length of the inner sleeve is horizontal.

また、該パーツは、逆L字形状の略直角部分の外側の角と内側の角とを結んだ線が、脇部分と内袖部分の境界線であり、その境界線の下側(裾側)の部分を前身頃と後身頃に、上側(肩、袖口側)の部分を外袖に接続するように縫合している。   Further, in the part, the line connecting the outer corner and the inner corner of the inverted L-shaped substantially right angle portion is the boundary line between the side portion and the inner sleeve portion, and the lower side (hem side) of the boundary line ) Are connected to the front and back bodies, and the upper side (shoulder, cuff side) is connected to the outer sleeve.

該パーツは、前記境界線が中央部に位置するマチ部が脇の下の位置にできる。請求項1に係る上着を着て腕を下ろした状態では、このマチ部は、脇の下に折畳まれるので、外観は、一般の上着と変わりがなく、また、肩、腕、脇に突っ張りによる違和感もない。 The part can have a gusseted portion where the boundary line is located at the center and a position below the armpit. In the state where the arm is lowered while wearing the outerwear according to claim 1, the gusset portion is folded under the armpit, so the appearance is the same as that of a general outerwear, and the shoulder, arm, armpit There is no sense of incongruity due to the tension.

また、請求項1に係る上着を着た状態において、腕を胸の前に回した際に、脇下のマチ部が伸びることと、そのマチ部の生地がバイアス方向に引張られて伸びることと相俟って、生地が突っ張らず、違和感なく腕を前方から腕の反対側方向に回すことができる。また、生地が、突っ張らないので腕の可動範囲が大きくなる。同様に、腕を上に上げた際にも、生地が突っ張らないので、違和感なく腕を上に上げることができ、腕の可動範囲も大きくなる。 Further, when the arm is turned in front of the chest in the state of wearing the jacket according to claim 1, the gusset portion of the armpit extends and the fabric of the gusset portion is stretched by being pulled in the bias direction. Combined with, the dough does not stretch and the arm can be turned from the front to the opposite side of the arm without a sense of incongruity. Moreover, since the cloth does not stretch, the movable range of the arm is increased. Similarly, when the arm is raised, since the fabric does not stretch, the arm can be raised upward without a sense of incongruity, and the movable range of the arm is increased.

本願発明の請求項2に係る上着は、請求項1に記載の上着において、前記上着が、ジャケットブレザー、スーツの上着、作業着、制服の上着、ユニフォームの上着又はコートであることを特徴とする。また、請求項3に係る上着は、請求項1又は2に記載の上着において、前記上着の表面生地が、同一の素材と柄の生地で構成されていることを特徴とする。 Jacket according to claim 2 of the present invention is the coat according to claim 1, wherein the coat is di catcher packet blazer, wear on the suit, work clothes, uniforms coat, uniforms jacket or coat It is characterized by being. The outerwear according to claim 3 is the outerwear according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the surface fabric of the outerwear is composed of the same material and the fabric of the pattern.

本発明に係る上着を全ての上着に用いることができるが、特に外観が重要である上着に使用すれば効果が高いので、例えば、ジャケット(ブレザー、スーツの上着)、作業着、制服の上着、ユニフォームの上着又はコート等に用いるのがよい。その中でも特に表側の生地が統一した素材や柄を使用する上着に用いるのが好適である。 Although the outerwear according to the present invention can be used for all outerwear, it is highly effective when used for outerwear whose appearance is particularly important. For example, jackets (blazers, suit outerwear), work clothes, It should be used for uniforms, uniforms or coats. Among them, it is particularly preferable to use it for a jacket that uses a material or a pattern with a uniform cloth on the front side.

本発明に係る請求項1から3に記載の上着によれば、縦横方向に伸縮する生地を用いる必要がないので、表生地を統一しているジャケット(ブレザー、スーツの上着)、作業着、制服の上着、ユニフォームの上着又はコートに使用しても、肩や背中に突っ張り感を感じずに、スムーズに腕を綿布や上方に動かすことができるし、また、腕の可動範囲を大きくすることができる。また、脇の下の位置に伸縮生地を使用しないので材料費も安くできて、伸縮生地を縫い付ける余計な縫製の手間もかからない。   According to the outer garment according to claims 1 to 3 of the present invention, it is not necessary to use a fabric that expands and contracts in the vertical and horizontal directions, so a jacket (blazer, suit outer garment) and work clothing that unify the front fabric. Even if it is used for uniforms, uniforms, or coats, the arm can be moved smoothly with cotton cloth or upward without feeling a sense of tension on the shoulders and back. Can be bigger. In addition, since the stretch fabric is not used in the position of the armpit, the material cost can be reduced and there is no need for extra sewing for sewing the stretch fabric.

本発明の実施するための形態に係る上着であって、(a)は、腕を下げた状態の上着の模式的側面図、(b)は、腕を前に伸ばした状態の上着の模式的平面図である。BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS It is the outerwear which concerns on the form for implementing this invention, Comprising: (a) is a typical side view of the outerwear in the state where the arm was lowered, (b) is the outerwear in the state where the arm was extended forward FIG. 図1の脇・内袖一体パーツ部分の形態を表しており、(a)が、図1に対応し、(b)、(c)、(d)、(e)は、それぞれ、脇・内袖一体パーツ部分の形態の変形例を示した模式的側面図である。1 represents the form of the side / inner sleeve integrated part portion of FIG. 1, (a) corresponds to FIG. 1, and (b), (c), (d), (e) are the side and inside, respectively. It is the typical side view which showed the modification of the form of a sleeve integral part part. 本発明の実施するための形態に係る上着であって、図1の上着の模式的平面図である。It is a jacket which concerns on the form for implementing this invention, Comprising: It is a typical top view of the jacket of FIG. 一般の上着であって、上着の模式的平面図である。FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view of a general outer garment.

図1(a)、(b)に示すように、本発明に係る上着1は、少なくとも脇・内袖一体パーツ2を備えており、また、その他の主な部品として、前身頃部品3−1、後身頃部品3−2、外袖部品4、衿部品5がある。 As shown in FIGS. 1 (a) and 1 (b), a jacket 1 according to the present invention includes at least a side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 and, as other main parts, a front body part 3- 1. Rear body part 3-2, outer sleeve part 4, and heel part 5.

図2(d)に示すように脇・内袖一体パーツ2は、脇の下の位置で、脇の部分と内袖の部分が一体となるように、一つの生地から裁断されており、また、その脇の下の位置で略直角に曲がった逆L字型をし、かつ、生地の布目方向は、脇の背丈方向が縦地に、内袖の袖丈方向が横地になっている。なお、図1に示されている脇・内袖一体パーツ2の形態は、図2(a)に示すパーツである。   As shown in FIG. 2 (d), the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 is cut from one fabric so that the side portion and the inner sleeve portion are integrated at the position under the armpit, It has an inverted L shape that is bent at a substantially right angle under the armpits, and the fabric texture direction is such that the side length of the side is vertical and the length of the inner sleeve is horizontal. The form of the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 shown in FIG. 1 is the part shown in FIG.

また、図1に示すように、本発明に係る上着1は、脇・内袖一体パーツ2について、逆L字形状の略直角部分の外側の角20と内側の角21とを結んだ線が、脇部分と内袖部分との境界線2−4である。その境界線2−4の下側(裾側)の部分を前身頃3−1と後身頃3−2に、上側(肩、袖口側)の部分を外袖4に接続するように縫合している。   Moreover, as shown in FIG. 1, the outerwear 1 which concerns on this invention is the line | wire which connected the outer corner | angular 20 and the inner corner | angular 21 of the inverted L-shaped substantially right-angled part about the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2. Is the boundary line 2-4 between the side portion and the inner sleeve portion. The lower side (hem side) of the boundary line 2-4 is sewn so as to be connected to the front body 3-1 and the rear body 3-2 and the upper side (shoulder, cuff side) is connected to the outer sleeve 4. Yes.

本発明に係る上着1を着用すれば、図1(a)に示すように、腕を下げた状態では、脇・内袖一体パーツ2は、前記境界2−4が中央部に位置するマチ部2−1(斜線を施している部分)が、脇の下の位置にできる。マチ部2−1は、脇の下に折畳まれており、従来の上着と外観に差がないので、上着を着用した外観も見栄えがよく、また、腕や脇の下に突っ張り感等の違和感がない。 If the outerwear 1 according to the present invention is worn, as shown in FIG. 1 (a), in the state where the arm is lowered, the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 has the boundary line 2-4 positioned at the center. The gusset portion 2-1 (the hatched portion) can be located under the armpit. The gusset part 2-1 is folded under the armpit, and there is no difference in appearance from the conventional outerwear, so the appearance with the outerwear looks good, and there is a sense of incongruity such as a feeling of tension on the arm or armpit. Absent.

また、図1(b)に示すように、本発明に係る上着1を着用して腕を前方に伸ばした状態にすれば、脇の下に折畳まれていたマチ部2−1が伸びる。また、脇の下の部分(マチ部2−1)の生地は、背丈方向が縦地と腕方向が横地となっているので、腕を前方に伸ばした際に、マチ部2−1は、生地のバイアス方向に力が加わることになるので、生地自体が伸び易くなる。よって、腕を前方に伸ばしても、腕、脇、背中が突っ張らないので着用に違和感がない。同様に、前方から反対側にまわしたり、上方に上げたとしても、腕、脇、背中に突っ張りを感じない。   Moreover, as shown in FIG.1 (b), if it wears the jacket 1 which concerns on this invention, and makes it the state which extended the arm ahead, the gusset part 2-1 folded under the armpit will be extended. Moreover, since the cloth of the armpit part (the gusset part 2-1) is a vertical ground and the arm direction is a horizontal ground, when the arm is extended forward, the gusset part 2-1 Since a force is applied in the bias direction, the cloth itself is easily stretched. Therefore, even if the arm is extended forward, the arm, side, and back do not stretch, so there is no sense of incongruity in wearing. Similarly, even if it is turned from the front to the opposite side or raised upward, it does not feel any tension on the arms, sides, or back.

また、図3に示すように、腕を胸側にまわしたとしても、マチ部2−1が伸びるので、それによって、袖の背中側の付け根の位置が前方にスライドすることになり、袖(腕)の可動範囲10を広げることができる。同様に、腕を上方に上げたとしても、マチ部2−1が伸びて、袖の背中側の付け根の位置が上方にスライドし、袖(腕)の可動範囲を広げることができる。   Further, as shown in FIG. 3, even if the arm is turned to the chest side, the gusset portion 2-1 extends, so that the base position on the back side of the sleeve slides forward, and the sleeve ( The arm's movable range 10 can be expanded. Similarly, even if the arm is raised upward, the gusset portion 2-1 extends, the base position on the back side of the sleeve slides upward, and the movable range of the sleeve (arm) can be expanded.

本発明に係る上着を用いれば、別途、伸縮生地を使用しないので、表地に同一の素材・柄の生地のみを使用できる。よって、外観が重要なジャケット(ブレザー、スーツの上着)のようなフォーマルな上着に用いることができ、しかも、そのフォーマルな上着を着ても、違和感なく腕を動かすことができる。また、作業着やユニフォームに用いた場合にも、表側の生地に同一の柄の生地のみを用いることができるので、外観を見栄えよくすることができる。   If the outerwear according to the present invention is used, since the stretch fabric is not used separately, only the fabric of the same material / pattern can be used for the outer material. Therefore, it can be used for formal outerwear such as a jacket (blazer, suit outerwear) whose appearance is important, and even if the formal outerwear is worn, the arm can be moved without a sense of incongruity. In addition, when used for work clothes or uniforms, only the fabric with the same pattern can be used as the fabric on the front side, so that the appearance can be improved.

なお、図2(d)に示す脇・内袖一体パーツ2は、脇部品全部と内袖部品全部とが一体として構成されているタイプのものである。このタイプは、脇・内袖一体パーツ2が最大の大きさとなるので、縫製する箇所が少なくなる。他にも様々な変形のタイプがあり、例えば、脇と内袖が、脇・内袖一体パーツ2、脇部品2−2、内袖部品2−3に分割された図2(a)、(b)、(c)、(e)のようなタイプがあり、上述したように、脇・内袖一体パーツ2のマチ部分2−1の作用によって、肩や背中に突っ張り感を感じずに、スムーズに腕を綿布や上方に動かすことができる。   The side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 shown in FIG. 2 (d) is of a type in which all the side parts and all the inner sleeve parts are integrally formed. In this type, since the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2 has the maximum size, the number of parts to be sewn is reduced. There are various other types of deformation, for example, FIG. 2A in which the side and the inner sleeve are divided into the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2, the side part 2-2, and the inner sleeve part 2-3. b) There are types like (c) and (e), and as described above, by the action of the gusset portion 2-1 of the side / inner sleeve integrated part 2, without feeling a tension on the shoulder or back, Smoothly move the arm up or down.

服飾の分野に広く利用することができる。   Can be widely used in the field of clothing.

1:上着
2:脇・内袖一体パーツ
2−1:マチ部 2−2:脇部品
2−3:内袖部品 2−4:境界線
3−1:前身頃部品 3−2:後身頃部品
4:外袖部品
5:衿部品
10:袖の可動範囲
20:外角 21:内角
1: Outerwear 2: Side / inner sleeve integrated parts
2-1: gusset part 2-2: side part 2-3: inner sleeve part 2-4: boundary line 3-1: front body part 3-2: rear body part 4: outer sleeve part 5: collar part 10: Sleeve movable range 20: Outer corner 21: Inner corner

Claims (3)

脇部品と内袖部品とを構成部品にした上着において、少なくとも脇の下の位置で前記脇部品と前記内袖部品とが一体のパーツとなっており、該パーツの生地が、脇の背丈方向が縦地に、内袖の袖丈方向が横地になるようにし、また、該パーツの形状が、前記脇の下の位置で逆L字型の略直角形状をなすと共に、該略直角形状部分の外側の角と内側の角とを結んだ線を脇部分と内袖部分の境界線とし、該パーツの該略直角部分の境界線より下側の該脇部品を前後の身頃部品と、前記境界線より上側の該内袖部品を外袖部品と、に接続するように設けたことを特徴とする上着。 In a jacket with side parts and inner sleeve parts as constituent parts, the side parts and the inner sleeve parts are an integral part at least under the armpit, and the fabric of the parts is The length of the inner sleeve is set to be horizontal on the vertical ground, and the shape of the part is an inverted L-shaped substantially right angle at the position of the armpit, and the outer corner of the substantially right angle shaped portion. The line connecting the inner corner and the inner corner is defined as the boundary line between the side part and the inner sleeve part, and the side part below the boundary line of the substantially right-angled part of the part is the front and rear body parts, and above the boundary line. The outer garment is provided so as to connect the inner sleeve part to the outer sleeve part. 前記上着が、ブレザー、スーツの上着、作業着、制服の上着、ユニフォームの上着又はコートであることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の上着。 The coat is blanking leather, wearing on the suit, work clothes, jacket according to claim 1, which is a uniform jacket, uniform jacket or coat. 前記上着の表面生地が、同一の素材と柄の生地で構成されていることを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載の上着。   The outerwear according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the surface fabric of the outerwear is made of the same material and a patterned fabric.
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