JP2020164425A - Oily cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide an oily cosmetic which has a light and smooth sense of use without stickiness and a gloss feeling and provides a cosmetic film having a plump feeling after application without burden feeling.SOLUTION: There is provided an oily cosmetic which comprises the following components (A) to (C): (A) an oil agent having two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule, (B) a copolymer of an α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone and (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester, where the content mass ratio (A)/(B) between the component (A) and the component (B) is 1 to 20.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-based cosmetic, and more particularly to a cosmetic having a light and smooth feeling of use without stickiness, a glossy feeling, and a plump feeling of a cosmetic film without a feeling of burden.

Makeup products such as lipsticks, cheeks, and eye shadows are items that add color to the applied areas such as lips, cheeks, and eyelids to give a gorgeous facial impression. These are often provided as oil-based cosmetics in terms of vividness of color and long-lasting makeup. In addition to color development, glossiness, and usability, the makeup-holding function has recently become a very popular function. In order to exert its function, various material combinations are being studied. For example, an oligomer of hardened castor oil and dimer acid with specific physical properties, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax and / or selecin, a hydroxy compound having at least one hydroxyl group, and a liquid ester having an IOB value of 0.1 to 0.4. A technique that combines oils for excellent spreadability and moistness when applied (see Patent Document 1), and a certain ratio of silicone resin containing a phenyl group and a (vinylpyrrolidone / alfeolefin) copolymer gives a glossy finish. Examples thereof include a technique for improving the feeling and longevity of makeup (see Patent Document 2).

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2009-185070 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2016-117701

However, with the technique of Patent Document 1, a feeling of burden when forming a film is large, a feeling of gloss is not improved to that extent, and a satisfactory feeling such as not being able to obtain a plump feeling of a cosmetic film cannot be obtained. Further, in the technique of Patent Document 2, a satisfactory one cannot be obtained, for example, the feeling of use tends to be heavy, the feeling of burden is accompanied, and the feeling of plumpness is not sufficient.

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to develop an oil-based cosmetic that has a light and smooth feeling of use without stickiness, has a glossy feeling, and has a plump feeling of a cosmetic film after application without a feeling of burden. ..

In such a situation, as a result of intensive research to solve the above problems, the present inventors have conducted an oil agent containing two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule, an α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms, and vinyl in the oil-based cosmetics. We have found that by combining with a copolymer with pyrrolidone, it gels, and by combining with a dextrin fatty acid ester, it is possible to impart smooth spread and spread, non-stickiness, glossiness and plumpness, and complete the present invention. It came to.

That is, the present invention includes the following.
[1]
The following components (A) to (C);
(A) Oil agent containing two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule (B) Copolymer of α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone (C) Dextrin fatty acid ester is contained, and components (A) and (B) An oil-based cosmetic having a content mass ratio (A) / (B) of 1 to 20.
[2]
The oily cosmetic according to [1], wherein the content of the component (B) is 3 to 20% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic.
[3]
The oily cosmetic according to [1] or [2], which further contains a copolymer of an α-olefin having 16 or less carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone as a component (D).
[4]
The oily cosmetic according to [3], wherein the component (D) is a (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer.
[5]
The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the component (A) is a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20.
[6]
The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the component (B) is a (VP / eicosen) copolymer or tricontanyl PVP.
[7]
The oily cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein the component (C) is dextrin palmitate and / or (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an oil-based cosmetic having a light and smooth spread and spread without stickiness, having a glossy feeling, and having a plump cosmetic film after application without a feeling of burden.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In this specification, "~" means a range including numerical values before and after that, and "%" unless otherwise specified means "mass%".

The oil agent containing two or more hydroxyl groups in the component (A) molecule in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used for cosmetics. Examples of such compounds include esters of acids such as fatty acids and amino acids with glycerin or its polymers, pentaerythritol or its polymers, sucrose or its polymers and the like, with two final products in the molecule. It is characterized by leaving the above hydroxyl groups in the structure. As long as two or more hydroxyl groups of the component (A) in the present invention are present in the molecule, the positions and the number of hydroxyl groups are not particularly limited. For example, in the case of an ester, the alcohol may have two or more hydroxyl groups, and the fatty acid may have two or more hydroxyl groups, but the alcohol preferably has two or more hydroxyl groups. In the present invention, the number of hydroxyl groups in the molecule is not particularly limited as long as it is two or more, but 2 to 10 is preferable, 2 to 7 is more preferable, and 2 to 3 is preferable from the viewpoint of affinity when combined with other components. Is particularly preferable. Specifically, decaglyceryl decaisostearate (2 hydroxyl groups), decaglyceryl nonaisostearate (3 hydroxyl groups), decaglyceryl decaethylhexanoate (2 hydroxyl groups), decaglyceryl pentaisostearate (7 hydroxyl groups), Diglyceryl isostearate (three hydroxyl groups), diglyceryl diisostearate (two hydroxyl groups) and the like can be mentioned, and one or more of them can be used. Among these, it is more preferable to use the component (A) as a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20 because it is more excellent in glossiness and plumpness.

The content of the component (A) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5 to 50%, more preferably 8 to 40%. Within this range, it is more preferable because it is superior in terms of no burden, smooth expansion and spread, and plumpness.

The copolymer of the component (B) α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used for cosmetics, and is, for example, as an α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms. Examples thereof include 1-octadecene, 1-eicosene, 1-dococene, 1-tetracosene, 1-tricontene and the like, and those copolymerized with vinylpyrrolidone can be used. The α-olefin of the component (B) preferably has 20 to 30 carbon atoms, and a (VP / eicosen) copolymer using 1-eicosene or 1-tricontene or tricontanyl PVP has a glossy, plump, and burdensome feeling. It is preferable in terms of lack of quality, and the (VP / Eicosen) copolymer is more preferable.

The content of the component (B) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 3 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15%. Within this range, it is more preferable because it is superior in glossiness, plumpness, and no burden.

In the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention, the content mass ratio of the component (A) and the component (B) is 1 to 20 in (A) / (B). It is more preferable that the ratio of the component (A) and the component (B) is in this range because it is superior in that there is no feeling of burden.

The component (C) dextrin fatty acid ester in the present invention is an ester of dextrin and fatty acid. The fatty acid used for the component (C) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but a fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable, and a linear or branched saturated fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms is more preferable. Specific examples of such fatty acids include ethylhexanoic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and behenic acid. As the component (C), one or a combination of two or more of these fatty acids and an esterified product with the above-mentioned polysaccharide can be used, and in particular, at least a part of the constituent fatty acids includes myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and the like. Those containing a fatty acid having 14 or more carbon atoms such as isostearic acid are preferable. Specific examples of the component (C) in the present invention include dextrin fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristic acid, dextrin (palmitic acid / octanoic acid), and dextrin isostearate, all of which can be used. However, dextrin palmitate and / or (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin is particularly preferable because it exerts a particularly excellent effect on non-stickiness and plumpness. As the component (C), for example, commercially available products such as Leopearl KL2, Leopearl TL2, Leopearl MKL2, Leopearl TT2, and Unifilma HVY (all manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) can be used.

The content of the component (C) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 5 to 8%. This range is more preferable because it is superior in smooth expansion and spread, non-stickiness, plumpness, and no burden.

Further, the present invention can contain a copolymer of α-olefin having 16 or less carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone. In the present invention, the inclusion of the component (D) is preferable in terms of glossiness, no burden, and plumpness. Examples of the α-olefin having 16 or less carbon atoms include 1-hexadecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-dodecene and the like, and those copolymerized with vinylpyrrolidone can be used. The α-olefin of the component (D) preferably has 10 to 16 carbon atoms, and a copolymer of 1-hexadecene and vinylpyrrolidone (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) is more preferable because it is more excellent in plumpness.

The content of the component (D) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 3 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15%. Within this range, it is more preferable because it is superior in a feeling of plumpness and no burden.

In addition to the above components (A) to (D), the oily cosmetics of the present invention include components usually used in cosmetics, oily components other than the components (A) to (D), powders, and surfactants. , Fiber, aqueous component, ultraviolet absorber, anti-fading agent, antioxidant, antifoaming agent, beauty component, preservative, fragrance and the like can be contained within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention.

The oil-based cosmetics of the present invention can be obtained by a commonly known production method. An example of the manufacturing method is shown below, but the method is not limited thereto. For example, the components (A) to (D) can be obtained by heating and dissolving at 90 ° C., adding other components, filling the container, and molding if necessary.

The oil-based cosmetics of the present invention are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include lipstick, lip gloss, lipstick base coat, lipstick overcoat, cheek, eye color and the like, but lip gloss and lipstick overcoat are particularly preferable.

The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to an oily type containing an oily agent as a main component and a water-in-oil type having an outer layer as a continuous phase of the oily agent, but water having an oily agent or an oily component which is an oil-soluble compound as a continuous phase. The oil content is preferably 1% or less, or substantially water-free. The properties are not particularly limited, but may be liquid, semi-solid, solid, etc., and are preferably liquid or semi-solid, and are further filled in a container such as a tube container or an applicator container with an applicator. Most preferably, it is a liquid.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. It should be noted that these do not limit the present invention in any way.

[Adjustment of oil gel]
The gel strength of the gels obtained by heating and melting the compositions shown in Table 1 at 100 ° C. and pouring them into a jar was measured by the method shown below. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: ANTALON V-220 (manufactured by Ashland)
* 2: KEH-1010 (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
* 3: S Face IS-1005P (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
* 4: Cosmall 43V (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group)
* 5: Liponate TDTM (manufactured by Vantage Speciality Chemical)
* 6: T.I. I. O (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group)

(Evaluation method)
Regarding the gel strength, after each sample was allowed to stand at 25 ° C. for 1 hour, the gel strength was measured using a rheometer manufactured by FUDOH Co., Ltd. using a 10 mm blanger and needle insertion at a distance of 2 mm at 6 cm / min. In the present invention, it is more preferable to use 0.5 N or more because it is more excellent in plumpness.

Example 1 (Products 1 to 19 of the present invention) and Comparative Examples (Comparative products 1 to 7): Oil-based liquid rouge Oil-based lip gloss having the compositions shown in Tables 2 and 3 was produced by the following production method. The lip gloss was evaluated by the following methods for (a) no burden, (b) gloss, (c) plumpness, (d) smooth spread and spread, and (e) non-stickiness. The results are also shown in Tables 2 and 3.

* 7: ANTARON WP-660 (manufactured by Ashland)
* 8: ANTALON V-216 (manufactured by Ashland)
* 9: Unifilma HVY (manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.)
* 10: KF-96A-100cs (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

(Production method)
A: The components (1) to (14) are heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to 90 ° C.
B: Ingredients (15) to (22) are added to A and mixed uniformly at room temperature.
After defoaming C: B, it was poured directly to obtain an oil-based liquid rouge.

(Evaluation method)
For the following evaluation items (a) to (e), each sample was subjected to a usage test by 20 specialized panels. Each person on the panel applies each sample to the lips, and for (a), make sure that the cosmetic film does not shrink and feel the burden on the cosmetic film, and for (b), make sure that the cosmetic film is glossy. For (c), the cosmetic film feels thick and gives a plump impression, for (d), whether it spreads smoothly during application, and (e) whether it feels sticky at the time of application. Was scored according to the following absolute evaluation criteria, the total score of all the panels was calculated, and the results were judged according to the following floor criteria.

<Evaluation items>
(A) No burden (b) Glossy (c) Plump (d) Smooth expansion and spread (e) No stickiness <Absolute evaluation criteria>
(Score): (Evaluation)
4 points: Very good 3 points: Good 2 points: Somewhat bad 1 point: Bad <Judgment criteria>
(Judgment): (Total score)
◎: 65 points or more 〇: 50 points or more and 64 points or less △: 35 points or more and 49 points or less ×: 34 points or less

As is clear from Tables 2 and 3, Examples 1 of the present invention (Products 1 to 19 of the present invention) show no burden, gloss, plumpness, smooth spread, non-stickiness, and all evaluation items. It was excellent and good in. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 containing no component (A), the effect was insufficient because a feeling of plumpness, a feeling of luster, and a non-stickiness could not be obtained. In Comparative Example 2 using polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, which does not contain the component (A) and has two hydroxyl groups in the molecule, a satisfactory feeling of plumpness and luster was not obtained. In Comparative Examples 3 and 4 which did not contain the component (B), the effect was insufficient because a feeling of plumpness, no feeling of burden, and a feeling of luster could not be obtained. In Comparative Example 5 in which the content mass ratios of the components (A) and (B) were 0.9, the smooth spread and spread, the glossy feeling, and the plump feeling were not sufficient. In Comparative Example 6 in which the content mass ratio of the components (A) and (B) was 26.67, a product that was sufficiently satisfactory in terms of plumpness could not be obtained. In Comparative Example 7 containing no component (C), a product that was not sufficiently sticky and had a plump feeling was not sufficiently obtained.

Example 2: Oily lip gloss (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Decaglyceryl deca2-ethylhexanoate * 2 20
2. (VP / Eikosen) Copolymer * 1 1
3. 3. Dextrin palmitate 5
4. (Palmitic acid / octanoic acid) Dextrin 4
5. (Hexadecene / VP) Copolymer * 8 10
6. Dimethylsilylated silica 0.5
7. Diglyceryl triisostearate Remaining amount 8. Polybutene * 11 10
9. Heavy liquid isoparaffin * 12 13
10. Tocopherol 0.01
11. Polysilicone-15 0.5
12. Red No. 202 0.02
13. Yellow No. 4 0.005
14. Titanium oxide 0.05
15. Black iron oxide 0.001
16. Red No. 218 0.04
17. (PET / Polymethylmethacrylate) Laminate 1
18. Aluminum powder 0.5
19. Olive oil 0.001
20. Camellia oil 0.001
21. Shea butter 0.01
22. Rice bran oil 0.001
23. Lavender oil 0.001
24. Grape polyphenol 0.001
25. Fragrance 0.02
* 11: Nippon Oil Polybutene HV-1900 (manufactured by JX Nippon Oil & Energy)
* 12: Pearl Dream 46
(Production method)
A: The components (1) to (11) are heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to 90 ° C.
B: Add components (12) to (16) to A and mix uniformly with a bead mill.
C: Add components (17) to (25) to B and mix uniformly.
After defoaming D: C, the mixture was heated to 90 ° C. and poured directly into a tube container and allowed to cool to obtain an oily lip gloss.
The oil-based lip gloss of Example 2 was satisfactory in all aspects of no burden, gloss, plumpness, smooth spread and non-stickiness.

Example 3: Oil-based poured eye color (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. (Palmitic acid / hexyldecanoic acid) Dextrin * 136
2. Decaglyceryl nonaisostearate * 14 25
3. 3. Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate Remaining amount 4. Tritridecyl trimeritoate 5
5. (VP / icosane) copolymer 5
6. Dimethicone (25 ° C kinematic viscosity 2CS) 10
7. (Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone) Cross Polymer 1
8. Borosilicate (Ca / Al) 10
9. Perfluorohexyl ethyltriethoxysilane 3% treatment
Titanium oxide coated borosilicate (Ca / Al) 15
10. Dimethylsilylated silica 2
11. Dipropylene glycol 0.5
12.1,2-Pentanediol 0.1
13. Tocopherol acetate 0.02
14. Hyaluronic acid 0.01
15. Collagen 0.01
16. Centifolia rose flower extract 0.05
* 13: Leopard WX (manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.)
* 14: S Face IS-1009P (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: The components (1) to (5) are heated and dissolved at 80 to 90 ° C.
B: Add components (6), (7), (10) to (16) to A and mix uniformly with a roll mill.
C: Add components (8) and (9) to B and mix uniformly.
D: C was dissolved at 90 ° C. and poured directly into a dish to obtain an oil-based poured eye color.
The oil-based poured eye color of Example 3 was satisfactory in all aspects of smooth spread and spread, non-stickiness, glossiness, and plumpness (three-dimensional appearance of the eyes due to the effect).

Example 4: Oil-based lip balm (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Dextrin palmitate 9
2.2-Cetyl ethylhexanoate 15
3. 3. Heavy liquid isoparaffin remaining amount 4. Diisostearyl malate 13
5. Pentaglyceryl trioleinate 15
6. Decapolyglyceryl decaisostearate 15
7. Dextrin isostearate 2
8. (VP / Eikosen) Copolymer 10
9. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.5
10. Dimethicone (25 ° C kinematic viscosity 20CS) 0.5
11.1,3-butylene glycol 0.3
12. Dibutylhydroxytoluene 0.01
13. Silicate anhydride 2
14. Bengala 0.01
15. Oil-soluble rosemary extract 0.01
16. Avocado oil 0.01
17. Argan oil 0.01
18. Fragrance 0.1
(Production method)
A: The components (1) to (10) are heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to 90 ° C.
B: Ingredients (11) to (17) are added to A and mixed uniformly with a roll mill.
C: B was poured directly into the container at 90-95 ° C. to obtain a lip balm.
The lip balm of Example 4 was satisfactory in all of the smooth spread and spread, glossiness, no burden, no stickiness, and a plump finish.

Claims (7)

The following components (A) to (C);
(A) Oil agent containing two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule (B) Copolymer of α-olefin having 18 or more carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone (C) Dextrin fatty acid ester is contained, and components (A) and (B) An oil-based cosmetic having a content mass ratio (A) / (B) of 1 to 20. The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the component (B) is 3 to 20% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a copolymer of an α-olefin having 16 or less carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone as a component (D). The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein the component (D) is a (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene) copolymer. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component (A) is a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the component (B) is a (VP / eicosen) copolymer or tricontanyl PVP. The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the component (C) is dextrin palmitic acid and / or (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin.