JP2019519693A - 羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法 - Google Patents

羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法 Download PDF

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JP2019519693A
JP2019519693A JP2018565267A JP2018565267A JP2019519693A JP 2019519693 A JP2019519693 A JP 2019519693A JP 2018565267 A JP2018565267 A JP 2018565267A JP 2018565267 A JP2018565267 A JP 2018565267A JP 2019519693 A JP2019519693 A JP 2019519693A
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Prior art keywords
sheet
mold
concave surface
concave
filling
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English (en)
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ゾルジン ジョバンニ
ゾルジン ジョバンニ
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モンクレール ソチエタ ペル アツィオニ
モンクレール ソチエタ ペル アツィオニ
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Publication of JP2019519693A publication Critical patent/JP2019519693A/ja
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/02—Jackets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
    • A41D3/02—Overcoats
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    • B29C51/00—Shaping by thermoforming, i.e. shaping sheets or sheet like preforms after heating, e.g. shaping sheets in matched moulds or by deep-drawing; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C51/08—Deep drawing or matched-mould forming, i.e. using mechanical means only
    • B29C51/082—Deep drawing or matched-mould forming, i.e. using mechanical means only by shaping between complementary mould parts
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    • B29C66/43—Joining a relatively small portion of the surface of said articles
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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Blow-Moulding Or Thermoforming Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)

Abstract

羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法において、得るべき衣料品の少なくとも１つの部分のそれぞれの詰め物入り反り領域（１３）と実質的に相補的な形状の複数の第１の凹面（２）が具備された少なくとも１つの金型（１）を調製するステップと；変形可能な材料の第１のシート（３）と金型を結び付けるステップと；金型（１）の第１の凹面に実質的に対応する第２の凹面（３２）を第１のシート（３）上で得るために、金型（１）に対して第１のシート（３）を変形させるステップと；第１のシート（３）の各々の第２の凹面（３２）にダウンを充填するステップと；第２のシート（６）を第１のシート（３）に固着するステップと；先行するステップにおいて得られた半完成品（１０）を金型（１）から取り出すステップと；を含む方法。

Description

本発明は、羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法、特にガチョウのダウンが詰められた「ダウンジャケット」としても公知のジャケットおよびコートの製造方法に関する。
少なくとも２層のファブリックまたは「接着芯（triplure）」、例えば平行な複数のステッチドシーム、および２層の間に封入されステッチドシームに画定された体積の中に格納された一定量のダチョウのダウンを有し、２つのシーム間に含まれる各バンド内で反り効果（cambered effect）を作り出すようになっている、詰め物入り衣料品が公知である。
ダウン羽毛の中に保持すべきシームは、縫製により作製され、このためいくつかの問題が引き起こされる。
第１の問題は、羽毛損失、すなわちダウン羽毛が、一方の体積から別の体積へと、あるいは衣料品の外部へと移動し得る可能性にある。
さらに、反り（camber）の体積減少も存在し得る。
別の問題は、ステッチドシームとダウン羽毛によって作り出される反りが、ファブリックから外向きおよび内向きの両方に突出し、それを衣料品の２つの側の一方のみに制限することができないということにある。
本発明の目的は、上述の側面の１つ以上において先行技術を改善することのできる、充填型の衣料品、特に羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法を提供することにある。
この目標の範囲内で、本発明の目的は、先行技術における羽毛損失の問題を無くするかまたは少なくともかなり削減する羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法を提供することにある。
本発明のもう１つの目的は、衣料品の反りを外向きのみまたは内向きのみに制限することを可能にする羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法を提供することにある。
本発明の別の目的は、公知のダウンジャケット製造技術に比べた生産時間の短縮にある。
さらに、本発明の別の目的は、どの既存の解決法とも異なる方法により公知の欠点を克服することにある。
本発明の別の目的は、信頼性が高く、実施が容易でかつ低コストである方法を提供することにある。
以下でより明白になるこの目標およびこれらのおよび他の目的は、任意には従属クレームの特徴を伴うクレーム１に記載の方法によって達成される。
本発明のさらなる特徴および利点は、添付図面中で非限定的な例として示されている本発明に係る方法の好ましい非排他的な実施形態についての説明から、より明白になるものである。
本発明の一実施形態において使用される構成要素の分解組立図である。 第１のシートを金型と結び付けるステップを示す。 金型に対する第１のシートの固定を示す。 第１のシートを変形させるステップを示す。 ダウン羽毛詰め物の挿入を示す。 第２のシートの重ね合せを示す。 第１のシートに対する第２のシートの固定を示す。 第１の実施形態で得られる半完成品を示す。
図を参照すると、本発明に係る方法には、第１に、得るべき衣料品の少なくとも１つの部分のそれぞれの詰め物入り反り領域と実質的に相補的な形状の複数の第１の凹面２が具備された、例えば金属製の適応された金型１を調製するステップが関与する。
例えば、図は、ブダン（boudin）効果を伴う詰め物入りダウンジャケットの一部分の紙モデルから出発して予め得られた金型１を示す。
金型１は、雌金型であり、その第１の凹面２は実質的に矩形のベースを伴って整形され、実質的に互いに平行である。
変形可能な材料の少なくとも１つの第１のシート３が金型１全体の上に配設され、例えば、金型１の外周囲に対応する内部断面形状を有するフレーム４の機械的干渉などによって、金型に対し一時的に固定される。
第１のシート３は、ファブリックまたは不織布、または「接着芯」あるいは例えばＥＶＡまたはシリコーンなどの永久変形または熱成形温度を有する材料の一片であり得る。
その後、第１のシート３は、金型１の第１の凹面に実質的に対応する第２の凹面３２を第１のシート３上で得るように、金型１に対する変形に付される。
変形は、金型１に適用された第１のシート３とこの金型の第１の凹面２との間に画定された体積を減圧することによって得ることができ、金型には、第１の凹面２内に通じかつ図示されていない真空ポンプに連結可能な外部コネクタ１１に連結されているチャネル２１が好適に具備されている。
代替案として、または付加的に、第１のシート３の変形は、金型の対応する第１の凹面２の形状と実質的に相補的であるそれぞれの形状を有する複数の雄プラグと金型１とを相互に接近して移動させることにより、得ることができる。
変形は、ＥＶＡまたはシリコーンなどの熱成形可能な材料で好適に作られている第１のシート３を熱成形することで、実質的に永久変形となり得る。
この目的で、金型１、特にその第１の凹面２は、それ自体公知の方法で、第１のシート３の材料の永久変形または熱成形温度の範囲内に入る温度まで好適に加熱され得る。
付加的に、または代替案として、上述の雄プラグが使用される場合、この雄プラグを、このような温度にすることができる。
その後、第１のシート３の各々の第２の凹面３２には、フェザー、好ましくはガチョウのフェザーまたはガチョウのダウン、例えば各々の第２の凹面３２について１つのダウン詰め物５が充填される。
各々のダウン詰め物５は、前もって従来の技術を用いて製造され、一方の側では凸形状を有しもう一方の側では実質的に平担であり得、こうして、凸面が第１のシート３上に形成された対応する第２の凹面３２を満たすことができるようになっている。
次に、第２のシート６が、例えば第２の凹面３２の周囲部域３１と第２のシート６との間に接着剤層を間置させ、第２のシート６を第１のシート３に対しプレスを用いて押圧することによって、第１のシートに固着される。
代替的には、第１のシート３と第２のシート６の間の固着は、例えば第２のシートとしての「接着芯」、すなわち熱により溶融させられた時に２つのシート３および６を互いにボンディングする熱可塑性繊維を含む材料を用いて、ヒートシールによって達成可能である。
上述の実施形態の変形バージョンにおいては、側方ポケットを通って羽毛を注入できるようにするため、各々の第２の凹面３２の一方の側で２つのシート３および６の間に側方ポケットを開放状態で残すことによって、第１のシート３と第２のシート６の間の固着の後に、羽毛を注入することができる。このような注入は、直接、すなわち前もって作製された詰め物５を用いることなく、行なうことができる。
第１の実施形態に戻ると、２つのシート３および６の充填および固着の後、このようにして得られた半完成品１０は、金型１から取り出され、耳は任意にはカットされるかまたは整形され、最終的に、所望の衣料品の異なる部分を形成することを目的として類似の方法で得られた他の半完成品に接合される。
実際には、本発明に係る方法は、ブダン効果または丸味効果を得るために使用される従来の封じ込めステッチングを含まない羽毛充填型の衣料品を得ることを可能にするという点において、設定された目標を完全に達成するものであることが分かっている。
その上、熱成形を用いて、衣料品の一方の側のみに反り効果を与えることが可能である。
このように構想された方法は、多くの修正および変更を受け入れる余地があり、それらの全てが添付のクレームの範囲内に入る。その上、全ての細部は、他の技術的に等価の要素によって置換され得る。
実際には、利用される材料ならびに寸法は、要件および技術的現状にしたがった任意のものであり得る。
本出願が優先権を主張している伊国特許出願第１０２０１６００００６０８３７号（ＵＡ２０６Ａ００４３４５）中の開示は、参照により本明細書に組込まれている。
いずれかのクレーム中で言及されている技術的特徴に参照符号が後続している場合、これらの参照符号は、クレームの理解度を増大させることを唯一の目的として含み入れられたものであり、したがって、このような参照符号は、それらにより一例として識別されている各要素の解釈に対しいかなる限定的効果も有するものではない。

Claims (7)

  1. 羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法において、
    − 得るべき前記衣料品の少なくとも１つの部分のそれぞれの詰め物入り反り領域（１３）と実質的に相補的な形状の複数の第１の凹面（２）が具備された少なくとも１つの金型（１）を調製するステップと；
    − 変形可能な材料の第１のシート（３）と前記金型（１）を結び付けるステップと；
    − 前記金型（１）の前記第１の凹面（２）に実質的に対応する第２の凹面（３２）を前記第１のシート（３）上で得るために、前記金型（１）に対して前記第１のシート（３）を変形させるステップと；
    − 前記第１のシート（３）の各々の第２の凹面（３２）にダウンを充填するステップと；
    − 第２のシート（６）を前記第１のシート（３）に固着するステップと；
    − 先行するステップにおいて得られた半完成品（１０）を前記金型（１）から取り出すステップと；
    を含むこと、を特徴とする方法。
  2. 前記固着するステップが、前記第２の凹面（３２）を取り囲む前記第１のシート（３）の領域（３１）に沿った接着剤ボンディングまたはヒートシーリングからなる、請求項１に記載の方法。
  3. 前記第１のシート（３）を変形させるステップが、前記第１のシート（３）と前記金型（１）の前記第１の凹面（２）との間に画定された体積を減圧するステップを含む、請求項１ないし２のいずれか１項以上に記載の方法。
  4. 前記第１のシートを変形させるステップは、前記第１のシート（３）と前記金型（１）の前記第１の凹面（２）との間に画定された体積を減圧することによって得られるか、または、前記第１のシートを伴う前記金型と、前記金型の前記第１の凹面（２）のそれぞれと実質的に相補的な形状の複数の雄プラグとを、相互に接近して移動させることによって得られる、前記第１のシート（３）の熱成形を含み、前記金型および前記雄プラグのいずれかまたは両方が前記第１のシート（３）の材料の永久変形のための温度まで加熱される、請求項１ないし３のいずれか１項以上に記載の方法。
  5. 前記ダウンを充填するステップが、予めダウンを充填した詰め物（５）を前記第２の凹面（３２）の各々の中に挿入することからなる、請求項１ないし４のいずれか１項以上に記載の方法。
  6. 前記充填するステップが前記固着するステップの後に行なわれる、請求項１ないし５のいずれか１項以上に記載の方法。
  7. 前記金型（１）が３次元紙モデルから出発して予め製造される、請求項１ないし６のいずれか１項以上に記載の方法。
JP2018565267A 2016-06-14 2017-06-12 羽毛充填型の衣料品の製造方法 Pending JP2019519693A (ja)

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