JP2019137627A - ヘアカラー方法 - Google Patents
ヘアカラー方法 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2019137627A JP2019137627A JP2018020935A JP2018020935A JP2019137627A JP 2019137627 A JP2019137627 A JP 2019137627A JP 2018020935 A JP2018020935 A JP 2018020935A JP 2018020935 A JP2018020935 A JP 2018020935A JP 2019137627 A JP2019137627 A JP 2019137627A
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- agent
- color
- present
- cuticle
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 1
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- ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethanolamine Chemical compound OCCNCCO ZBCBWPMODOFKDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940105990 diglycerin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960000735 docosanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940079593 drug Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 229960005150 glycerol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003700 hair damage Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylellagic acid Natural products O1C(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C3=C2C2=C1C(OC)=C(O)C=C2C(=O)O3 FAARLWTXUUQFSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004570 mortar (masonry) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KKBOOQDFOWZSDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[2-(diethylamino)ethyl]octadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CC)CC KKBOOQDFOWZSDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]octadecanamide Chemical group CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012454 non-polar solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003973 paint Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000011007 phosphoric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000467 phytic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002949 phytic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940068041 phytic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002798 polar solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 235000011118 potassium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000160 potassium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 229910000030 sodium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017557 sodium bicarbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001509 sodium citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K sodium citrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O NLJMYIDDQXHKNR-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 229940005581 sodium lactate Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 229910000162 sodium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011008 sodium phosphates Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000003664 tensile strength of the hair Effects 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- CUXYLFPMQMFGPL-UYWAGRGNSA-N trichosanic acid Natural products CCCCC=C/C=C/C=CCCCCCCCC(=O)O CUXYLFPMQMFGPL-UYWAGRGNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl(octadecyl)azanium;bromide Chemical compound [Br-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 1
- RYFMWSXOAZQYPI-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium phosphate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O RYFMWSXOAZQYPI-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
Description
を所定割合で混合したものを塗布する工程と、
前記塗布後に所定時間を設ける工程と、
前記所定時間後にキューティクルケア剤を塗布する工程とを含む、ことを特徴とする。
(B)アルカリ剤、第一のアミノ酸、炭素数が12〜22の高級アルコール類、界面活性剤、及び増粘剤を少なくとも含有する毛髪化粧料と、
を所定割合で混合したものを塗布する工程と、
前記塗布後に所定時間を設ける工程と、
前記所定時間後にキューティクルケア剤を塗布する工程とを含む、ことを特徴とする。当該ヘアカラー剤は、塩基性染料と、HC染料、第二のアミノ酸と、第一のカチオン界面活性剤と、増粘剤と、油剤と、第一のpH調整剤と、湿潤剤とを含有するものであって、pHは、6.8以上であり、当該毛髪化粧料は、アルカリ剤と、第一のアミノ酸と、炭素数が12〜22の高級アルコール類と、界面活性剤と、増粘剤とを含有することが好ましい。
2)本発明に適用可能なヘアカラー剤(染毛成分含有)及び毛髪化粧料(塩基性キューティクル膨潤剤含有)を所定割合で混合したものを、刷毛によって毛髪に塗布する。
3)塗布した毛髪をラップで覆い、ヘアドライヤーを用いて加温し、約30分置く。
4)この約30分では、へアドライヤーにより、約10分で40℃前後まで昇温した後、約20分温度を保つ。
5)4)の後、キューティクルケア剤を毛髪に十分塗布し、約6分置く。
6)5)の後、適温の湯とシャンプー剤で洗髪する。
7)タオルドライ後、ヘアドライヤーで毛髪を乾かす。
1.表1の水相を75〜77℃まで撹拌しながら加温する。
2.表1の油相を75〜79℃まで加熱しながら撹拌し、均一にする。
3.75〜77℃までに加熱した水相に色素を加えて均一にし、前記油相を加えて乳化し、均一になるまで撹拌する。
4.内容物をゆっくりと冷却し、43℃以下になったら防腐剤および清涼成分、消炎成分、アミノ酸群を加えて均一になるまで撹拌し、32℃以下になるまで冷却する。
pHメーターの機種:F−71((株)堀場製作所)
pHメーターの電極:形式9615((株)堀場製作所)
1.表3のA相の精製水にアミノ酸群を溶解確認後、アルカリ剤を均一に混合する。
2.次いで、表3のA相を撹拌しながら表3のB相を加えて均一に混合する。
3.適度に撹拌しながら表3のC相を加え、均一になるまで撹拌する。
pHメーターの機種:F−71((株)堀場製作所)
pHメーターの電極:形式9615((株)堀場製作所)
調整方法:
1.表5のA相の精製水に残りの成分を均一に混合する。
2.表5のA相を撹拌しながら表5のB相を加えて均一に混合する。
3.適度に撹拌しながら表5のC相を加え、均一になるまで撹拌する。
4.毛髪の等電帯(pH4.5〜5.5)に整えるために製剤のpHを、クエン酸を用いてpH5.4付近にする。
pHメーターの機種:F−71((株)堀場製作所)
pHメーターの電極:形式9615((株)堀場製作所)
市販黒髪100%未処理毛(品番:BS-B-A、ビューラックス社製)重さ1g、長さ10cmを毛髪試料として、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)と塩基性キューティクル膨潤剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターB、サニープレイス社製)を、配合比(A:B=10:1)になるように混合したものを刷毛によりまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて約30分間加温する(約10分で40℃前後まで昇温し、約20分間温度を保つ)。その後、キューティクルケア剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターC、サニープレイス社製)を全体に揉みこむように塗布し約6分置いた。その後、適温の湯とザクロシード抽出成分含有シャンプー(販売名:エストロン・シャンプー、サニープレイス社製)を用いて洗い流し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げた。この染毛から洗髪、乾燥までの工程を5回繰り返し、染色毛を作成した。なお、配合比は、製品の質量の比率である。
実施例1と同じ毛髪試料を、酸化染毛剤(販売名:イゴラ・ロイヤル・ピクサム−G G-B6、ヘンケルジャパン社製)と過酸化水素6%のデベロッパーを1:1の割合で混合して塗布した後、室温下で30分間置いた。その後、適温の湯と、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げた。この染毛から洗髪、乾燥までの工程を5回繰り返し、染色毛を作成した。
実施例1(及び比較例1)と同じ毛髪試料を、酸化染毛剤(販売名:プロマスターB−6/5、ホーユー株式会社製)と過酸化水素6%のデベロッパーを1:1の割合で混合して塗布した後、室温下で30分間置いた。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げた。この染毛から洗髪、乾燥までの工程を5回繰り返し、染色毛を作成した。
次に、後述する引張切断強度の比較及び水分測定のためのダメージ毛を作成した。実施例1と同じ毛髪試料に、ブリーチ剤(商品名:ブリーチパウダー、ナンバースリー社製)と過酸化水素6%のデベロッパーを1:3の割合で混合して塗布した後、室温下で約30分間放置することによりブリーチ処理を行った。
作成したダメージ毛に、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)を刷毛にてまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて30分間加温した(10分で40℃前後まで昇温し、20分間温度を保つ)。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げ、染色毛を作成した。
作成したダメージ毛に、実施例1と同様に、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)と毛髪化粧料(販売名:輝髪ペインターB、サニープレイス社製)を配合比でAが10に対してBが1になるように混合したものを刷毛にてまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて30分間加温した(10分で40℃前後まで昇温し、20分間温度を保つ)。その後、キューティクルケア剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターC、サニープレイス社製)を全体に揉みこむように塗布し6分放置。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げ、染色毛を作成した。
市販人毛白髪30%混合品(品番:BM-MIX-A、ビューラックス社製)重さ1g、長さ10cmを毛髪試料として、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)を刷毛によりまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて30分間加温する(10分で40℃前後まで昇温し、20分間温度を保つ)。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げ、染色毛を作成した。この洗髪回数による色味の違いを分光測色計(型式:CM-2600d、コニカミノルタ社製)を用いて、明度(L*)を測定した。
市販人毛白髪30%混合品(品番:BM-MIX-A、ビューラックス社製)重さ1g、長さ10cmを毛髪試料として、塩基性キューティクル膨潤剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターB、サニープレイス社製)を刷毛により約5から8分置いた後、水洗いしてヘアドライヤーで乾かす。その後、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)を刷毛によりまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて5分間加温し、その後約15分間置いた。その後、キューティクルケア剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターC、サニープレイス社製)を全体に揉みこむように塗布し約5分置いた。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げ、染色毛を作成した。洗髪回数による色味の違いを比較例5と同様に明度(L*)を測定した。
市販人毛白髪30%混合品(品番:BM-MIX-A、ビューラックス社製)重さ1g、長さ10cmを毛髪試料として、ヘアカラー剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターA、サニープレイス社製)と毛髪化粧料(販売名:輝髪ペインターB、サニープレイス社製)を配合比でA:B=10:1になるように混合したものを刷毛によりまんべんなく塗布した後、ラップで覆いヘアドライヤーを用いて30分間加温する(10分で40℃前後まで昇温し、20分間温度を保つ)。その後、キューティクルケア剤(販売名:輝髪ペインターC、サニープレイス社製)を全体に揉みこむように塗布し約6分置いた。その後、実施例1と同様に洗髪し、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させて仕上げ、染色毛を作成した。洗髪回数による色味の違いを比較例4及び5と同様に明度(L*)を測定した。なお、L*の数値が0に近ければ近いほど黒っぽいという数値になる。
さらに、実施例3、参照例3及び参照例4の染色した毛髪(洗髪なし)を加熱乾燥・質量測定方式の赤外線水分計(型式:FD-660、ケット科学研究所社製)を使って測定した。表9にこの測定結果を示す。この結果からは、ヘアカラー剤単独よりも、毛髪化粧料及びキューティクルケア剤を付加することで、染毛の水分量は増加することが判明した。
Claims (8)
- (A)塩基性染料、HC染料、第二のアミノ酸、第一のカチオン界面活性剤、増粘剤、油剤、第一のpH調整剤及び湿潤剤を少なくとも含有するヘアカラー剤であって、前記ヘアカラー剤のpHは、pH6.8以上であるヘアカラー剤と、
(B)アルカリ剤、第一のアミノ酸、炭素数が12〜22の高級アルコール類、界面活性剤、及び増粘剤を少なくとも含有する毛髪化粧料と、
を所定割合で混合したものを塗布する工程と、
前記塗布後に所定時間を設ける工程と、
前記所定時間後にキューティクルケア剤を塗布する工程とを含む、ヘアカラー方法。 - 前記キューティクルケア剤は、臭素酸ナトリウム、過酸化水素から選択される少なくとも1種と、第二のカチオン界面活性剤と、第二のpH調整剤とを含む、請求項1記載の方法。
- 前記キューティクルケア剤の塗布後、一定時間放置する工程を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の方法。
- 前記(A)ヘアカラー剤と前記(B)毛髪化粧料とを混合する配合比は、(A)/(B)=1〜20である、請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 前記アルカリ剤は、アンモニア水、炭酸アンモニウム、炭酸ナトリウム、エタノールアミン類、炭酸水素アンモニウム、アルギニンから選択される少なくとも1種である請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 前記第一又は第二のアミノ酸は、システイン、アルギニン、リシン、又はヒスチジンから選択される少なくとも1種である請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
- 前記ヘアカラー剤、前記毛髪化粧料、及び前記キューティクルケア剤の少なくとも一つが、抗体産生抑制剤を含む、請求項2又は3に記載の方法。
- 前記塗布後に所定時間を設ける工程において、毛髪を加温することを特徴とする請求項1〜7のいずれか1項に記載の方法。
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