JP2019026574A - Hair strengthening agent - Google Patents
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- JP2019026574A JP2019026574A JP2017145500A JP2017145500A JP2019026574A JP 2019026574 A JP2019026574 A JP 2019026574A JP 2017145500 A JP2017145500 A JP 2017145500A JP 2017145500 A JP2017145500 A JP 2017145500A JP 2019026574 A JP2019026574 A JP 2019026574A
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- 238000005728 strengthening Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- HHLFWLYXYJOTON-UHFFFAOYSA-N glyoxylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=O HHLFWLYXYJOTON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000003623 enhancer Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 11
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 10
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 10
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 8
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 8
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 8
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 description 6
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 5
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 5
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 230000003752 improving hair Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lysine Natural products NCCCCC(N)C(O)=O KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004472 Lysine Substances 0.000 description 3
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- -1 ammonium ions Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000003472 neutralizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 206010019049 Hair texture abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 2
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N L-tyrosine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LCTONWCANYUPML-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyruvic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)C(O)=O LCTONWCANYUPML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000000637 arginyl group Chemical group N[C@@H](CCCNC(N)=N)C(=O)* 0.000 description 2
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 2
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229960003067 cystine Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000002552 dosage form Substances 0.000 description 2
- RWSXRVCMGQZWBV-WDSKDSINSA-N glutathione Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(=O)N[C@@H](CS)C(=O)NCC(O)=O RWSXRVCMGQZWBV-WDSKDSINSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000003719 hair strength Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000003699 hair surface Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HXKKHQJGJAFBHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-aminopropan-2-ol Chemical compound CC(O)CN HXKKHQJGJAFBHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 5-oxo-L-proline Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 101710164994 50S ribosomal protein L13, chloroplastic Proteins 0.000 description 1
- OMLWNBVRVJYMBQ-YUMQZZPRSA-N Arg-Arg Chemical compound NC(N)=NCCC[C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@@H](CCCN=C(N)N)C(O)=O OMLWNBVRVJYMBQ-YUMQZZPRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XTWSWDJMIKUJDQ-RYUDHWBXSA-N Arg-Tyr Chemical compound NC(N)=NCCC[C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@H](C(O)=O)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 XTWSWDJMIKUJDQ-RYUDHWBXSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UVTGNSWSRSCPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Arg-Tyr Natural products NC(CCNC(=N)N)C(=O)NC(Cc1ccc(O)cc1)C(=O)O UVTGNSWSRSCPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004475 Arginine Substances 0.000 description 1
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010024636 Glutathione Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920002153 Hydroxypropyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- KDXKERNSBIXSRK-YFKPBYRVSA-N L-lysine Chemical compound NCCCC[C@H](N)C(O)=O KDXKERNSBIXSRK-YFKPBYRVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NPBGTPKLVJEOBE-IUCAKERBSA-N Lys-Arg Chemical compound NCCCC[C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@H](C(O)=O)CCCNC(N)=N NPBGTPKLVJEOBE-IUCAKERBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NVGBPTNZLWRQSY-UWVGGRQHSA-N Lys-Lys Chemical compound NCCCC[C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@H](C(O)=O)CCCCN NVGBPTNZLWRQSY-UWVGGRQHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MYTOTTSMVMWVJN-STQMWFEESA-N Lys-Tyr Chemical compound NCCCC[C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@H](C(O)=O)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 MYTOTTSMVMWVJN-STQMWFEESA-N 0.000 description 1
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JAQGKXUEKGKTKX-HOTGVXAUSA-N Tyr-Tyr Chemical compound C([C@H](N)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1C=CC(O)=CC=1)C(O)=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 JAQGKXUEKGKTKX-HOTGVXAUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000004026 adhesive bonding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000003368 amide group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000539 amino acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010068380 arginylarginine Proteins 0.000 description 1
- CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N aspartic acid group Chemical group N[C@@H](CC(=O)O)C(=O)O CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010049062 beta-Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007853 buffer solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 1
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000306 component Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008878 coupling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010168 coupling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005859 coupling reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004132 cross linking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003814 drug Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013922 glutamic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004220 glutamic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003180 glutathione Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000003969 glutathione Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002357 guanidines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010977 hydroxypropyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001863 hydroxypropyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940071676 hydroxypropylcellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000007529 inorganic bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940102253 isopropanolamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000003588 lysine group Chemical group [H]N([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(N([H])[H])C(*)=O 0.000 description 1
- 108010054155 lysyllysine Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000007530 organic bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003002 pH adjusting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940107700 pyruvic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000002787 reinforcement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108010003137 tyrosyltyrosine Proteins 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
Abstract
Description
本発明は毛髪強化剤に関する。より詳しくは、毛髪を被膜等で被覆するのではなく、毛髪自体を強化することのできる毛髪強化剤に関する。また本発明は、前記毛髪強化剤を用いた毛髪強化剤組成物及び毛髪強化処理方法にも関する。 The present invention relates to a hair strengthening agent. More specifically, the present invention relates to a hair strengthening agent that can reinforce the hair itself, rather than covering the hair with a film or the like. The present invention also relates to a hair strengthening agent composition and a hair strengthening treatment method using the hair strengthening agent.
毛髪は、主成分であるケラチンのポリペプチド鎖が種々の側鎖結合でつながりながら網目構造をとっている（図１参照）。平常時はα−へリックス構造（らせん状）をとっている毛髪ケラチンのポリペプチド主鎖は、引っ張られることによりβ−ケラチン（ジグザグ状）に変形することで毛髪が伸長すると考えられている。健常な毛髪では、引っ張り応力をとれば元の長さに回復するが、パーマネントウェーブ処理やブリーチング等の化学処理や紫外線等の外的刺激によって傷んだ毛髪では強度が低く切れやすい傾向があった。 Hair has a network structure in which polypeptide chains of keratin as a main component are connected by various side chain bonds (see FIG. 1). It is considered that the hair keratin polypeptide main chain, which normally has an α-helix structure (spiral), is deformed into β-keratin (zigzag) by being pulled, thereby extending the hair. Healthy hair recovers to its original length when tensile stress is applied, but hair that is damaged by chemical treatment such as permanent wave treatment or bleaching or external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays tends to be low in strength and easily cut. .
従来から、傷んだ毛髪を修復するために、ケラチン加水分解物等のタンパク質誘導体を適用することが知られている。しかしながら、ケラチン加水分解物等は毛髪表面のキューティクルの変形（剥離）等を修復する効果は有するが、毛髪強度を向上させる効果はなかった。 Conventionally, it is known to apply protein derivatives such as keratin hydrolysates to repair damaged hair. However, keratin hydrolyzate and the like have an effect of repairing deformation (peeling) of the cuticle on the hair surface, but have no effect of improving hair strength.
特許文献１には、カチオン化蛋白誘導体及び中性アミノ酸からなる毛髪修復組成物並びに当該組成物に被膜形成高分子化合物を含有する毛髪強化剤が開示されている。特許文献２には、緩衝液であるＡ剤と、Ｄ，Ｌ−ピロリドンカルボン酸、アミノ酸、及びグルタチオンから選択される少なくとも１種とヒドロキシプロピルセルロースを含有する水溶液であるＢ剤とからなる２液の毛髪強化剤が開示され、前記Ａ剤とＢ剤が毛髪上で水に不溶性のガム状物質を形成して毛髪を強化すると記載されている。即ち、これら従来技術は、毛髪表面を高分子被膜やガム状物質で覆うことによって毛髪強度を向上させる技術である。 Patent Document 1 discloses a hair repair composition comprising a cationized protein derivative and a neutral amino acid, and a hair strengthening agent containing a film-forming polymer compound in the composition. Patent Document 2 discloses a two-part solution consisting of an agent A that is a buffer solution and an agent B that is an aqueous solution containing at least one selected from D, L-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, amino acids, and glutathione and hydroxypropylcellulose. The hair strengthening agent is disclosed, and it is described that the agent A and the agent B strengthen the hair by forming a water-insoluble gum-like substance on the hair. That is, these conventional techniques are techniques for improving hair strength by covering the hair surface with a polymer coating or a gum-like substance.
一方、グリオキシル酸は、クセ毛の抑制や縮毛の矯正のための毛髪処理剤において使用されており、例えば、特許文献３には、グリオキシル酸を含む水溶液を毛髪に塗布して放置し、ヘアドライヤーで毛髪を乾燥させた後、約２００℃の高温で毛髪矯正アイロンを用いて毛髪を矯正する方法が開示されている。また、特許文献４には、グリオキシル酸に加えてグアニジン塩及び／又は尿素を含有する毛髪処理剤が開示され、優れた毛髪伸長（クセ抑制）効果を奏することが記載されている。しかしながら、グリオキシル酸の毛髪強度を向上させる機能については全く知られていなかった。 On the other hand, glyoxylic acid is used in a hair treatment agent for suppressing hazy hair and correcting curly hair. For example, in Patent Document 3, an aqueous solution containing glyoxylic acid is applied to hair and left to stand. A method of straightening hair using a hair straightening iron at a high temperature of about 200 ° C. after drying the hair with a dryer is disclosed. Patent Document 4 discloses a hair treatment agent containing a guanidine salt and / or urea in addition to glyoxylic acid, and describes that it exhibits an excellent hair elongation (dissipation) effect. However, the function of glyoxylic acid to improve the hair strength has not been known at all.
本発明は、前記従来技術に鑑みてなされたものであり、毛髪自体の強度を向上させることのできる毛髪強化剤を提供することを目的とする。 This invention is made | formed in view of the said prior art, and aims at providing the hair strengthening agent which can improve the intensity | strength of hair itself.
本発明者等は、前記の課題を解決すべく鋭意研究を重ねた結果、従来は毛髪伸長（縮毛矯正）に使用されていたグリオキシル酸が、毛髪自体の強度を向上させる機能を有することを初めて見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。 As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that glyoxylic acid, which has been used for hair elongation (hair straightening), has a function of improving the strength of the hair itself. For the first time, the present invention has been completed.
すなわち、本発明は、グリオキシル酸からなる毛髪強化剤、当該毛髪強化剤を含む毛髪強化剤組成物、及び当該毛髪強化剤を用いた毛髪強化処理方法を提供する。 That is, the present invention provides a hair strengthening agent comprising glyoxylic acid, a hair strengthening agent composition containing the hair strengthening agent, and a hair strengthening treatment method using the hair strengthening agent.
本発明に係る毛髪強化剤は、毛髪等のケラチン線維を構成するポリペプチド鎖の間に新たな結合を形成することによりケラチン線維の強度を向上させることができる。
本発明における「毛髪強化」あるいは「毛髪の強度向上」とは、毛髪自体の強度を向上させることを意味する。傷んだ毛髪（ダメージヘア）の「強化」は、傷んだ毛髪の強度を向上させて「補修」することも含み、その結果として毛髪に「はり」や「こし」を付与することになる。したがって、本発明における「毛髪強化」は、「毛髪の補修」及び「毛髪へのはり、こし付与」も包含すると解する。
The hair strengthening agent according to the present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers by forming new bonds between polypeptide chains constituting keratin fibers such as hair.
“Hair strengthening” or “improving hair strength” in the present invention means improving the strength of hair itself. The “strengthening” of damaged hair (damaged hair) includes “repair” by improving the strength of damaged hair, and as a result, “harness” and “koshi” are imparted to the hair. Therefore, it is understood that “hair strengthening” in the present invention includes “repair of hair” and “gluing and applying hair to hair”.
本発明の毛髪強化剤はグリオキシル酸からなる。グリオキシル酸は、下記式（Ｉ）で表される構造を有する化合物である。 The hair strengthening agent of the present invention comprises glyoxylic acid. Glyoxylic acid is a compound having a structure represented by the following formula (I).
図１に模式的に示すように、毛髪内には種々の側鎖結合が存在し、これらの結合を介してケラチンのポリペプチド鎖がつながることにより毛髪の構造が保持されている。図１の（塩結合）は、リジンやアルギニン残基等の（＋）に荷電したアンモニウムイオンとアスパラギン酸残基等の（−）に荷電したカルボキシレートイオンとの相互の静電的結合を表し、（ペプチド結合）はグルタミン酸等の−ＣＯＯＨ基とリジン残基等の−ＮＨ２基との脱水結合（−ＣＯＮＨ−）を表し、（シスチン結合）は、硫黄（Ｓ）を含むタンパク質に特有な結合であり、他の線維にはみられないジスルフィド結合を表し、（水素結合）は、アミド基とそれに近接するカルボキシル基間の結合である（「新化粧品学」第２版、光井武夫編、南山堂、２００１年、第６６〜６７頁参照）。 As schematically shown in FIG. 1, various side chain bonds exist in the hair, and the structure of the hair is maintained by connecting the polypeptide chains of keratin through these bonds. The (salt bond) in FIG. 1 represents the electrostatic binding between (+) charged ammonium ions such as lysine and arginine residues and (−) charged carboxylate ions such as aspartic acid residues. , (Peptide bond) represents a dehydration bond (—CONH—) between —COOH group such as glutamic acid and —NH2 group such as lysine residue, and (cystine bond) is a bond peculiar to a protein containing sulfur (S). It represents a disulfide bond not found in other fibers, and (hydrogen bond) is a bond between an amide group and a carboxyl group adjacent to it (“New Cosmetics” 2nd edition, edited by Takeo Mitsui, Nanzan) Do, 2001, pp. 66-67).
例えば、パーマネントウェーブを形成する際は、上記側鎖結合の中でのジスルフィド結合（シスチン結合）を還元剤によって切断し、ウェーブ形成した状態で酸化剤を用いて新たなジスルフィド結合を形成する。しかし、一度切断されたジスルフィド結合の全てが再結合せず、毛髪内の側鎖結合の総数が減少するため、毛髪の強度が低下すると考えられる。また、毛髪に対して酸化染色やブリーチング等の化学処理を行った場合や、紫外線等の外的刺激によっても側鎖結合の一部が切断され、毛髪の強度低下が生じているとも考えられる。 For example, when forming a permanent wave, a disulfide bond (cystine bond) in the side chain bond is cleaved with a reducing agent, and a new disulfide bond is formed using an oxidizing agent in a wave-formed state. However, since all of the disulfide bonds that have been broken once do not recombine, the total number of side chain bonds in the hair is reduced, which is thought to reduce the strength of the hair. In addition, when chemical treatment such as oxidative dyeing or bleaching is performed on the hair, or due to external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays, a part of the side chain bond is cleaved, and it is considered that the strength of the hair is reduced. .
本発明者等は、毛髪をグリオキシル酸で処理することにより、ケラチンのポリペプチド鎖間にカルボキシメチレン基を介した新たな結合を生じさせて毛髪強度を向上させることができることを初めて見出した。この新たな結合は、ケラチンのポリペプチド鎖を構成するリジン（Ｌｙｓ）残基、チロシン（Ｔｙｒ）残基、及びアルギニン（Ａｒｇ）残基から選択されるアミノ酸残基間（即ち、Ｌｙｓ−Ｌｙｓ間、Ｌｙｓ−Ａｒｇ間、Ｌｙｓ−Ｔｙｒ間、Ｔｙｒ−Ｔｙｒ間、Ａｒｇ−Ｔｙｒ間、又はＡｒｇ−Ａｒｇ間）に形成される架橋結合であると推測される。 The present inventors have found for the first time that hair strength can be improved by treating the hair with glyoxylic acid to form a new bond via a carboxymethylene group between the polypeptide chains of keratin. This new bond is formed between amino acid residues selected from lysine (Lys) residues, tyrosine (Tyr) residues, and arginine (Arg) residues constituting the polypeptide chain of keratin (ie, between Lys-Lys). , Lys-Arg, Lys-Tyr, Tyr-Tyr, Arg-Tyr, or Arg-Arg).
本発明は、前記毛髪強化剤（即ち、グリオキシル酸）を含有する毛髪強化剤組成物にも関する。
本発明の毛髪強化剤組成物は、水性媒体中にグリオキシル酸を含有する形態とするのが好ましい。水性媒体とは、水、あるいは、水と水溶性又は親水性の媒体（例えば、炭素数３以下の低級アルコール等）との混合物である。
The present invention also relates to a hair enhancer composition containing the hair enhancer (ie, glyoxylic acid).
The hair strengthening agent composition of the present invention is preferably in a form containing glyoxylic acid in an aqueous medium. The aqueous medium is water or a mixture of water and a water-soluble or hydrophilic medium (for example, a lower alcohol having 3 or less carbon atoms).
本発明の毛髪強化剤組成物におけるグリオキシル酸の配合量は、特に限定されないが、好ましくは組成物全体に対して、１〜３０質量％、より好ましくは３〜２０質量％。さらに好ましくは５〜１５質量％である。配合量が１質量％未満であると毛髪の強度向上効果が得られ難く、３０質量％を超えて配合しても効果の更なる向上はなく、組成物の酸性が強くなりすぎるので好ましくない。 Although the compounding quantity of glyoxylic acid in the hair strengthening agent composition of this invention is not specifically limited, Preferably it is 1-30 mass% with respect to the whole composition, More preferably, it is 3-20 mass%. More preferably, it is 5-15 mass%. If the blending amount is less than 1% by mass, the effect of improving the strength of the hair is difficult to obtain, and even if it exceeds 30% by mass, the effect is not further improved, and the acidity of the composition becomes too strong.
本発明の毛髪強化剤組成物は、そのｐＨを３以下、好ましくは２．５以下、より好ましくは２以下に調製するのが好ましい。組成物ｐＨ値の下限値は特に限定されないが、通常は１．０以上に調製される。組成物のｐＨは、グリオキシル酸の酸性を中和することにより適宜調整できる。中和剤（ｐＨ調整剤）としては、水酸化ナトリウムや水酸化カリウム等の無機塩基、トリエタノールアミンやイソプロパノールアミン、塩基性アミノ酸等の有機塩基を挙げることができるが、これらに限定されない。 The hair enhancer composition of the present invention is preferably prepared so that its pH is 3 or less, preferably 2.5 or less, more preferably 2 or less. The lower limit of the composition pH value is not particularly limited, but is usually adjusted to 1.0 or more. The pH of the composition can be adjusted as appropriate by neutralizing the acidity of glyoxylic acid. Examples of the neutralizing agent (pH adjusting agent) include, but are not limited to, inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and organic bases such as triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, and basic amino acids.
本発明の毛髪強化剤組成物は、グリオキシル酸及び任意の中和剤に加えて、毛髪処理用の化粧品や医薬品等に通常用いられる他の任意成分を、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲内で添加することができる。このような任意成分としては、例えば、カチオン性高分子、アミノ酸、ペプチド、プロテイン、金属イオン封鎖剤、油分、粉末成分、界面活性剤、増粘剤、香料、色素等を含有することができる。 In addition to glyoxylic acid and an optional neutralizing agent, the hair strengthening agent composition of the present invention contains other optional components that are usually used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for hair treatment within the range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Can be added. Examples of such optional components include cationic polymers, amino acids, peptides, proteins, sequestering agents, oils, powder components, surfactants, thickeners, fragrances, and pigments.
本発明にかかる毛髪強化剤組成物の剤型は、所望の効果が充分に発揮されるのであれば特に限定されないが、例えば、液状、乳液状、ゲル状、フォーム状、クリーム状などの剤型を採りうる。 The dosage form of the hair strengthening agent composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the desired effect is sufficiently exhibited. For example, the dosage form of liquid, emulsion, gel, foam, cream, etc. Can be taken.
本発明は、前記毛髪強化剤組成物を用いた毛髪強化処理方法も提供する。
本発明の毛髪強化処理方法は、（１）上記毛髪強化剤又は毛髪強化剤組成物を毛髪に塗布し、（２）塗布した状態で毛髪を放置し、（３）毛髪を水洗し、（４）毛髪を乾燥させ、（５）任意に整髪用アイロンで毛髪を処理する工程を含む。このような毛髪強化処理方法は、ヘアサロン等で実施するのに適している。
The present invention also provides a hair strengthening treatment method using the hair strengthening agent composition.
The hair strengthening treatment method of the present invention comprises (1) applying the above-described hair strengthening agent or hair strengthening agent composition to hair, (2) leaving the hair in the applied state, (3) washing the hair with water, (4 ) Drying the hair and (5) optionally treating the hair with a hair styling iron. Such a hair strengthening treatment method is suitable for implementation at a hair salon or the like.
（１）塗布工程
本発明の毛髪強化剤組成物は、シャンプー前のドライ毛に適用することも可能であるが、毛髪強化剤（グリオキシル酸）が毛髪に浸透しやすいことから、シャンプーで予め洗浄し水分を切ったウェットケアや、付着した水分をタオルで取り除いたタオルドライヘアに適用することが好ましい。
(1) Application step The hair strengthening agent composition of the present invention can be applied to dry hair before shampooing, but since the hair strengthening agent (glyoxylic acid) easily penetrates into hair, it is washed beforehand with shampoo. It is preferable to apply to wet care from which moisture has been cut off and towel dry hair from which adhered moisture has been removed with a towel.
（２）放置工程
毛髪強化剤組成物の塗布後、室温（約２５℃）にて１０〜３０分間、より好ましくは１５〜２０分間放置し、毛髪強化剤を毛髪に作用させる。放置時間が１０分間未満では、毛髪を十分に強化することができず、一方、放置時間が３０分間を超えても、放置時間に見合った毛髪強化効果の更なる向上は期待できない。
(2) Leaving step After applying the hair strengthening agent composition, it is allowed to stand at room temperature (about 25 ° C.) for 10 to 30 minutes, more preferably 15 to 20 minutes, and the hair enhancing agent is allowed to act on the hair. If the standing time is less than 10 minutes, the hair cannot be sufficiently strengthened. On the other hand, even if the standing time exceeds 30 minutes, further improvement of the hair strengthening effect commensurate with the standing time cannot be expected.
（３）水洗工程
毛髪を水又はぬるま湯ですすぎ、毛髪強化剤組成物を毛髪から洗い流す。毛髪から毛髪強化剤組成物を洗い流すことにより、その後の毛髪の乾燥や、取り扱いが容易になる。
(3) Washing step Rinse the hair with water or lukewarm water to wash away the hair strengthening agent composition from the hair. By washing away the hair strengthening agent composition from the hair, subsequent drying and handling of the hair becomes easy.
（４）乾燥工程
水洗後、水分をタオルで拭き取った後に、ヘアドライヤーで乾燥させる。
(4) Drying step After washing with water, the moisture is wiped off with a towel and then dried with a hair dryer.
（５）アイロン工程（任意）
上記（４）で乾燥させた毛髪は既に強度が向上しているが、任意に、１４０〜２００℃、好ましくは約１８０℃に熱した整髪用アイロンで毛髪に機械力及び熱を加えながら毛髪を伸ばす工程を実施してもよい。
(5) Ironing process (optional)
Although the strength of the hair dried in the above (4) has already been improved, the hair is optionally applied to the hair while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair with a hairstyling iron heated to 140 to 200 ° C, preferably about 180 ° C. You may implement the process to extend.
本発明に係る毛髪強化処理方法によれば、グリオキシル酸の作用によって、ケラチンを構成するポリペプチド鎖のリジン、チロシン、及びアルギニン残基間に架橋結合が新たに形成され、毛髪の強度が格段に向上する。 According to the hair strengthening treatment method of the present invention, by the action of glyoxylic acid, a cross-linking bond is newly formed between lysine, tyrosine and arginine residues of the polypeptide chain constituting keratin, and the strength of the hair is remarkably increased. improves.
以上、グリオキシル酸について詳細に説明したが、上記の内容はグリオキシル酸に限られず、ピルビン酸についても同様に上述した効果が得られる。 As described above, the glyoxylic acid has been described in detail, but the above-described content is not limited to glyoxylic acid, and the above-described effects can be similarly obtained with pyruvic acid.
以下に具体例を挙げて本発明を更に詳細に説明するが、本発明は以下の実施例に限定されるものではない。また、以下の実施例等における配合量は特に断らない限り質量％を示す。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. Moreover, the compounding quantity in a following example etc. shows the mass% unless there is particular notice.
下記の表１に掲げた組成を有する毛髪処理用組成物を調製した。実施例１は、本発明に係る毛髪強化剤組成物であり、比較例１は従来からダメージヘアの補修に使用されている加水分解タンパク質を配合した処理剤組成物である。 A hair treatment composition having the composition listed in Table 1 below was prepared. Example 1 is a hair enhancer composition according to the present invention, and Comparative Example 1 is a treatment composition containing a hydrolyzed protein conventionally used for repairing damaged hair.
健常な毛髪の束を、ブリーチング剤（ＰＲＩＭＩＥＮＣＥ ＣＬ１３（資生堂プロフェッショナル（株）製））を用いて１回のブリーチ処理を行った。続いて、縮毛矯正剤（クリスタライジングストレートＥＸ（資生堂プロフェッショナル（株）製））を用いて縮毛矯正処理を２回行った。 A healthy hair bundle was subjected to a bleaching treatment once using a bleaching agent (PRIMIENCE CL13 (manufactured by Shiseido Professional Co., Ltd.)). Then, the hair straightening process was performed twice using the hair straightener (Crystalizing Straight EX (made by Shiseido Professional Co., Ltd.)).
上記のようにして調製したダメージヘアの束（同量）に、実施例１及び比較例１の組成物を塗布し、１５分間放置した後、水洗し、ドライヤーで乾燥させた。 The composition of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to a bundle of damaged hair (same amount) prepared as described above, allowed to stand for 15 minutes, washed with water, and dried with a dryer.
前記処理を施した毛髪束の一端を固定して垂直方向に引っ張り応力を付加した。毛髪が破断したときの応力値（破断点応力）を、未処理のダメージヘアと比較して図２に示す。
図２のグラフから明らかなように、化学処理によってダメージを受けて強度低下した毛髪を、本発明に係る実施例１の組成物で処理すると強度が格段に向上し、処理サイクル数を３回にすると更に強化された。従来の補修剤である比較例１でも或る程度の強度向上は見られたが、その程度は本発明には及ばず、処理サイクルを増やしても強度の更なる向上は観察されなかった。
One end of the treated hair bundle was fixed and tensile stress was applied in the vertical direction. The stress value (breaking point stress) when the hair breaks is shown in FIG. 2 in comparison with untreated damaged hair.
As is apparent from the graph of FIG. 2, when hair that has been damaged by chemical treatment and has been reduced in strength is treated with the composition of Example 1 according to the present invention, the strength is significantly improved and the number of treatment cycles is increased to 3 times. Then it was further strengthened. In Comparative Example 1 which is a conventional repairing agent, a certain degree of strength improvement was observed, but this level did not reach the present invention, and even when the treatment cycle was increased, no further improvement in strength was observed.
従来は、縮毛矯正（ストレートパーマ）もパーマネントウェーブ形成と同様に毛髪にダメージを与える処理であると認識されていた。しかしながら、縮毛矯正作用を有することが知られたグリオキシル酸は、毛髪にダメージを与えるのではなく、逆に毛髪の強度を向上させる効果を発揮する。そして、その毛髪強化（ダメージ修復）効果は、従来から汎用されてきた補修剤よりも強力であることが確認された。 Conventionally, hair straightening has been recognized as a treatment that damages hair as well as permanent wave formation. However, glyoxylic acid, which is known to have a curly hair straightening action, does not damage hair but conversely exhibits an effect of improving hair strength. And it was confirmed that the hair reinforcement | strengthening (damage repair) effect is stronger than the repair agent conventionally used widely.
次に、下記の表２に掲げた組成を有する毛髪処理用組成物を調製した。実施例２は、本発明に係る毛髪強化剤組成物であり、比較例２は汎用されているパーマネント処理剤（還元剤）組成物である。 Next, a hair treatment composition having the composition listed in Table 2 below was prepared. Example 2 is a hair strengthening agent composition according to the present invention, and Comparative Example 2 is a widely used permanent treatment (reducing agent) composition.
健常な毛髪の束（同量）に、実施例２及び比較例２の組成物を塗布し、１５分間放置した後、水洗し、ドライヤーで乾燥させた。次いで、１８０℃に設定した整髪用アイロンを用いて、スルー法にて３回アイロン処理を行った。
前記の処理サイクルを１回又は３回実施した。
The composition of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was applied to a healthy hair bundle (the same amount), left for 15 minutes, washed with water, and dried with a dryer. Next, using a hairstyling iron set at 180 ° C., ironing was performed three times by the through method.
The treatment cycle was performed once or three times.
前記処理を施した毛髪束の一端を固定して垂直方向に引っ張り応力を付加した際の、毛髪の伸長率（横軸）と応力（縦軸）との関係を図３のグラフに示す。また、毛髪の長さが３％伸びるのに要した応力値、毛髪が破断したときの応力値を以下の表３に示す。 The graph of FIG. 3 shows the relationship between the elongation rate (horizontal axis) and the stress (vertical axis) of the hair when one end of the hair bundle subjected to the treatment is fixed and tensile stress is applied in the vertical direction. Table 3 below shows the stress value required for the hair length to increase by 3% and the stress value when the hair breaks.
図３及び表３に示した結果から明らかなように、パーマネントウェーブ処理で用いられる還元剤であるチオグリコール酸を配合した比較例２の組成物で処理した毛髪は、未処理の毛髪に比較して強度が低下しており、処理サイクル数を３回にした場合には更に強度低下がみられた。これに対して、グリオキシル酸を含む実施例２の組成物で処理すると、未処理の毛髪に比較して明らかに強度が向上しており、処理サイクル数を３回にすると更に強化された。 As is apparent from the results shown in FIG. 3 and Table 3, the hair treated with the composition of Comparative Example 2 containing thioglycolic acid, which is a reducing agent used in the permanent wave treatment, was compared with untreated hair. The strength was reduced, and when the number of treatment cycles was 3, the strength was further reduced. In contrast, when treated with the composition of Example 2 containing glyoxylic acid, the strength was clearly improved compared to untreated hair, and further strengthened when the number of treatment cycles was three.
Claims (4)
（２）塗布した状態で毛髪を放置し、
（３）毛髪を水洗し、
（４）毛髪を乾燥させる工程を含む、毛髪強化処理方法。 (1) Applying the hair strengthening agent according to claim 1 or the hair strengthening agent composition according to claim 2 or 3 to the hair,
(2) Leave the hair in the applied state,
(3) Wash the hair with water,
(4) A hair strengthening treatment method including a step of drying hair.
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| PCT/JP2018/026654 WO2019021875A1 (en) | 2017-07-27 | 2018-07-17 | Hair strengthening agent |
| CN201880048188.3A CN110944620B (en) | 2017-07-27 | 2018-07-17 | Hair strengthener |
| TW107125847A TW201909882A (en) | 2017-07-27 | 2018-07-26 | Hair fortifier |
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| WO2022112961A1 (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2022-06-02 | Jean Paul Myne' Srl | Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers and method comprising the application of said composition to the keratinic fibers |
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- 2018-07-17 CN CN201880048188.3A patent/CN110944620B/en active Active
- 2018-07-17 WO PCT/JP2018/026654 patent/WO2019021875A1/en active Application Filing
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN110944620A (en) | 2020-03-31 |
| TW201909882A (en) | 2019-03-16 |
| WO2019021875A1 (en) | 2019-01-31 |
| KR20200033248A (en) | 2020-03-27 |
| JP2022168056A (en) | 2022-11-04 |
| CN110944620B (en) | 2024-02-02 |
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