JP2018172808A - Three-dimensional warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric allowing a blistering pattern to be formed through a simple process.SOLUTION: A three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 comprises a first base structure 1, a second base structure 2 and a joining yarn 3 for joining the first base structure 1 and the second base structure 2. The joining yarn 3 includes an elastic yarn. The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric has: a connection region C in which at least one of adjacent joining yarns 3 is bridged between the first base structure 1 and the second base structure 2 and which is formed in both of the first base structure 1 and the second base structure 2; and a non-connection region U in which any of adjacent joining yarns 3 is not bridged between the first base structure 1 and the second base structure 2 and which is formed only in the first base structure 1. In the first base structure, an area ratio of the non-connection region is 15-70%.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric including a first ground texture, a second ground texture facing the first ground texture, and a connecting yarn that connects the first ground texture and the second ground texture.

  In the use of clothing such as women's clothing, a high design property is required for a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric. In order to achieve high designability, for example, a bulge-shaped pattern may be formed on the surface of the ground structure. Conventionally, various three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics have been studied in order to obtain such a bulge pattern.

  For example, there has been a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric knitted using a warp knitting machine having two rows of needle bars and using two or more types of yarns having different heat shrinkage rates as connecting yarns (for example, Patent Document 1). See). The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric of Patent Document 1 is obtained by applying a heat treatment after knitting to vary the thickness for each region where connected yarns having different heat shrinkage rates are used.

  In addition, after binding two fabrics having different shrinkage properties with binding yarns and applying an embroidery pattern, the binding yarns of a desired portion are dissolved and subjected to contraction treatment to form a bulge on the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric There was a method (see, for example, Patent Document 2).

JP-A-4-222260 Japanese Patent Publication No.52-27754

  However, in the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric described in the cited document 1, in order to make the thickness of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric different in the warp direction, heat shrinkage is applied to a part of one connecting yarn at the warping stage. There was a problem in that it was necessary to arrange yarns of different characteristics, and it took time to prepare. In addition, since heat-shrinkable yarns shrink at a relatively high temperature, the problem that the fiber material that can be used for non-shrinkable yarns is limited to those excellent in heat resistance, and high-shrinkage yarns are expensive as a whole. There was a problem of high costs. Further, since the shrink yarn becomes hard when contracted by heat, the texture of the knitted fabric may be hard.

  The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric described in the cited document 2 is produced by separately producing fabrics having different shrinkage in the production thereof, a step of binding them with a binding yarn, a step of embroidering, a step of dissolving the binding yarn, and Many processes such as a shrinkage treatment process were required, and the production efficiency was poor.

  This invention is made | formed in view of the said problem, and it aims at providing the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric which can form a swelling pattern by a simple process.

The characteristic structure of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention for solving the above problems is
A three-dimensional warp knitted fabric comprising a first ground structure, a second ground structure facing the first ground structure, and a connecting yarn that connects the first ground structure and the second ground structure,
The connecting yarn includes an elastic yarn,
A connection region in which at least one of adjacent connection yarns is stretched between the first ground structure and the second ground structure and is knitted in both the first ground structure and the second ground structure,
None of the adjacent connected yarns are spanned between the first ground structure and the second ground structure, and a non-connected region knitted only in the first ground structure;
Have
In the first ground structure, the ratio of the area occupied by the unconnected region is 15 to 70%.

  In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this configuration, the loop interval is reduced in all regions where the connecting yarn is knitted as the ground structure in the first ground structure due to the contraction force (tension) of the connecting thread. In the non-connected region of the second ground structure, a contraction force (tension) due to contraction of the loop interval of the portion where the connected yarn of the first ground structure is knitted as the ground texture acts. Since the loop interval of the region is not reduced, an outward bulge is formed, and a bulge-shaped handle is formed. Therefore, the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric of this configuration can form a bulge-like pattern by the bulging of the second ground structure in a simple process that does not require post-processing after knitting.

  Moreover, if the ratio of the area which a non-connecting area | region occupies for a 1st ground structure is 15 to 70%, it is excellent in dimensional stability and the desired width | variety and a swelling pattern are obtained. Further, in the non-connected region, the connected yarn is knitted only in the first ground structure, and there is no spanning part with the second ground structure, so that the fabric has excellent breathability and the knitted fabric has a soft texture. Therefore, if the ratio of the area which a non-connecting area occupies is such a range, the tactile sensation is good and a good knitted fabric with little stickiness even when installed on the skin surface.

In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention,
When the number of loops included in the unit area in the raw machine is Ng, and the number of loops included in the unit area in the finish is Nf,
Raw machine / finish shrinkage (%) = (1−Ng / Nf) × 100
It is preferable that the green machine / finishing shrinkage ratio calculated | required by is 40 to 85% in the said 1st ground structure.

  According to the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this configuration, the first ground structure sufficiently contracts, so that the second ground structure swells in the non-connected region, and a bulge-shaped handle can be formed.

In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention,
In the unconnected region, it is preferable that a difference between the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate of the first ground structure and the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate of the second ground structure is 20 to 80%.

  According to the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this configuration, the second ground structure in which the connecting yarns are not knitted is pushed and gathered in the non-connected region due to the shrinkage of the first ground structure. A bulge-like handle can be formed.

In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention,
In the non-connected region, any of three (three loops) or more connected yarns arranged continuously in the weft direction may be knitted only in the first ground structure continuously in three or more loops in the warp direction. preferable.

  According to the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this configuration, since the second ground structure that is continuous for three or more loops bulges in both the warp direction and the weft direction, it is possible to obtain a bulge effect that is clearly visible. it can.

In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention,
It is preferable that the connection area and the non-connection area are repeatedly arranged in a predetermined pattern.

  According to the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this configuration, a textile having a predetermined pattern can be continuously knitted.

1 is a schematic perspective sectional view showing a structure of a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. It is a conceptual diagram which shows the knitting structure of the 1st ground structure of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. (A) It is sectional drawing which shows typically the raw machine of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, and (b) It is sectional drawing which shows typically the finish of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. It is a schematic diagram of a double raschel knitting machine used for knitting a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. It is an organization chart which illustrates the knitting organization of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. It is an organization chart which illustrates other knitting organization of a three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. (A) The organization chart of the knitting structure in the unconnected area | region of an Example and a comparative example, (b) The organization chart of the knitting structure in the connection area | region of an Example and a comparative example.

  Hereinafter, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. However, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the configuration described below. In addition, in each figure, although the ground organization which comprises the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of this invention is illustrated, the thickness relationship of each organization is changed suitably for easy explanation, and the actual three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric is shown. It does not accurately reflect the size relationship (scale) of each organization in Japan.

<Configuration of three-dimensional warp knitted fabric>
FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective sectional view showing the structure of a three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a double raschel knitting machine used for knitting the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10. The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 has a structure in which a first ground structure 1 and a second ground structure 2 facing the first ground structure 1 are connected by a connecting yarn 3. In such a structure, the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 is preferably knitted using a double raschel knitting machine shown in FIG. A three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 shown in FIG. 1 is obtained by cutting a part of a textile knitted so as to repeatedly arrange a certain pattern using a double raschel knitting machine. The thickness T of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is preferably 1.5 to 20 mm in consideration of the hardness of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10, the ventilation, the basis weight, the height difference of the bulge-like pattern described later, and the like. 2-10 mm is more preferable, and it is still more preferable that it is 2-8 mm. If the thickness is less than 1.5 mm, the desired texture may not be obtained, and if it is greater than 20 mm, the texture and flexibility may be impaired. The thickness T of the knitted fabric is measured using PEACOCK H-30 (manufactured by Ozaki Mfg. Co., Ltd.), for example, in a region where the bulging portion 4 is not formed in FIG.

  In addition, by knitting using a double raschel knitting machine, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is connected to the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 with the surfaces on the sinker loop side facing each other. Therefore, in this embodiment, the sinker loop side is expressed as “inside” and the needle loop side is described as “outside” in both the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2.

  The first ground texture 1 is a ground texture knitted by warp knitting of a fiber material that is not heat-shrinkable yarn. Here, “heat shrinkable yarn” means a yarn having a heat shrinkage rate of 20% or more. The fiber material constituting the first texture 1 includes polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers such as nylon 6, nylon 66 and nylon 46, synthetic fibers such as polyolefin fibers such as polyethylene and polypropylene, rayon, etc. These yarns can be used alone or in combination with natural fibers such as cotton and wool. In particular, the fiber material constituting the first ground structure 1 is not particularly limited, such as a multifilament yarn, a monofilament yarn, a spun yarn, and a processed yarn, but is preferably a fiber material that is less stretchable. The fiber material constituting the first ground structure 1 preferably has a total fineness of 33 to 330 dtex.

  In FIG. 1, the area | region where one loop exists in the 1st ground structure 1 is typically shown with the frame of the broken line. Moreover, in this figure, the black triangle in the cross section of the first ground structure 1 indicates that the connecting yarn 3 is knitted along the sinker loop of the first ground structure 1. The knitting structure of the first ground structure 1 is not particularly limited, but is characterized in that it is knitted in the same pattern in all regions of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 and the connecting yarns 3 are knitted in all the loops. Thereby, as for the 1st ground structure 1, the space | interval of a loop becomes substantially equal in all the areas | regions of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10. FIG.

  The second ground structure 2 is a ground texture knitted by warp knitting of a fiber material that is not a heat-shrinkable yarn, and bulges in a partial region of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 (hereinafter referred to as “unconnected region U”). Part 4 is formed. By disposing the bulging portion 4 in a predetermined pattern in the second ground structure 2, a bulge-shaped handle can be formed by the bulging portion 4. By making the second ground structure 2 in which the bulge-shaped pattern is formed by such a bulging portion 4 as the surface texture of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10, high designability can be realized. The fiber material constituting the second texture 2 includes polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers such as nylon 6, nylon 66 and nylon 46, synthetic fibers such as polyolefin fibers such as polyethylene and polypropylene, rayon, etc. These yarns can be used alone or in combination with natural fibers such as cotton and wool. These fiber materials may use the same kind of fiber material in the first ground tissue 1 and the second ground tissue 2 or different fiber materials. In particular, the fiber material constituting the second ground structure 2 is not particularly limited, such as a filament yarn, a monofilament yarn, a spun yarn, and a processed yarn, but is preferably a fiber material that is less stretchable. It is preferable that the fiber material constituting the second ground structure 2 has a total fineness of 33 to 330 dtex.

  In FIG. 1, the area | region where one loop exists in the 2nd ground structure 2 is typically shown with the frame of the dashed-dotted line. Further, in this drawing, the white triangle in the cross section of the second ground structure 2 indicates that the connecting yarn 3 is knitted along the sinker loop of the second ground structure 2, and the cross section in the cross section of the second ground structure 2. The mark indicates that the connecting yarn 3 is not knitted in the second ground structure 2. Thus, in the knitting structure of the second ground structure 2, the connecting yarn 3 is not knitted in the non-connecting region U forming the bulging portion 4, and the other region (hereinafter referred to as “connecting region C”). The connecting yarn 3 is knitted. As will be described later, the connecting yarn 3 includes an elastic yarn. When the connecting yarn 3 is knitted, the loop is pulled by the tension of the connecting yarn 3. Therefore, the intervals of the loops of the second ground structure 2 are narrow in the connection region C of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 and wide in the non-connection region U of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10.

  The knitting structure of the second ground structure 2 can be appropriately selected by combining structures such as a chain knitting, an insertion knitting, a den knitting, and a cord knitting, but in particular, dimensional stability and form in both the warp direction and the weft direction. Those having excellent stability and sufficient tensile strength for the history are preferred. By adopting a knitting structure excellent in dimensional stability and form stability, the bulging portion 4 is easily formed in the second ground structure 2. Examples of the knitting structure that is less likely to expand and contract in the warp direction and the weft direction and have excellent dimensional stability and form stability include half knitting and queen's cord knitting, but a structure having an opening is preferred in terms of air permeability. In particular, a structure having an opening composed of a chain stitch structure and an insertion stitch structure is preferable. Since the expansion and contraction of the fabric is suppressed by using the chain knitting and the insertion knitting, the loop interval can be maintained in the unconnected region U. Examples of the structure having an opening composed of a chain knitted structure and an insertion knitted structure include lattice-like and honeycomb-like network structures such as tulle knitting and marquette knitting. Thereby, even if it has many opening, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 provided with sufficient intensity | strength can be obtained.

  The three-dimensional structure 10 shown in FIG. 1 is configured in a pattern in which the unconnected regions U are arranged in an island shape in the connected region C. The arrangement of the connected regions C and the unconnected regions U is as shown in FIG. For example, a pattern in which the connection region C is arranged in an island shape in the non-connection region U, a pattern in which the connection region C and the non-connection region U are arranged in a strip shape along the weft direction or the warp direction, Other patterns such as a pattern in which the connection region C and the non-connection region U are arranged in a checkered pattern may be used.

  The connecting yarn 3 is a jacquard yarn and connects the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2. FIG. 1 illustrates a state in which a plurality of connecting yarns 3 are exposed in a cross section along the weft direction, and a single connecting yarn 3 is exposed in a cross section along the warp direction. Each connecting thread 3 is made of a fiber material including an elastic thread. As the elastic yarn, for example, a polyester-based elastic yarn such as polyurethane-based elastic yarn, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or the like can be used. As the fiber material constituting the connecting yarn 3, the above elastic yarn can be used alone or as a composite yarn with non-elastic fibers. For example, the elastic yarn may be used as a multifilament yarn or a monofilament yarn, or the elastic yarn may be used after being covered with a processed yarn. In particular, in order to impart flexibility to the connecting yarn 3, it is necessary to use a multifilament yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.35 to 6 dtex and a total fineness of 33 to 250 dtex as the fiber material constituting the connecting yarn 3. preferable.

  The connecting yarn 3 is knitted in all the loops of the first ground structure 1, but is knitted in some loops in the second ground structure 2 and is not knitted in other loops. In the position where the connecting yarn 3 is knitted on both the mutually opposing loops of the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2, the connecting thread 3 is spanned between the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2. The first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 are connected in the vertical direction. On the other hand, in a position where the connecting yarn 3 is knitted only in the loop of the first ground structure 1 and is not knitted in the opposing loop of the second ground structure 2, the connecting yarn 3 is the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure. Not spanned between two. In addition, the space | interval, arrangement | positioning, arrangement | positioning direction, etc. which knit the connection thread | yarn 3 in the 1st ground organization 1 and the 2nd ground organization 2 are not limited to the structure of this figure, and can be arbitrarily determined as needed. For example, the positions where the connecting yarn 3 is knitted into both the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 are arranged in a hook, arranged in an oblique direction, arranged in a zigzag, arranged in a rhombus, arranged in a honeycomb, These may be arbitrarily combined and arranged to connect the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2.

  When the connecting yarn 3 includes the elastic yarn, the ground texture in which the connecting yarn 3 is knitted contracts in the warp direction and the weft direction. Specifically, in the figure, the connecting yarn 3 is knitted into both the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 and is spanned between the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2. The loop of the first ground structure 1 with the black triangle and the loop of the second ground structure 2 with the white triangle have the same loop interval due to the contraction force (tension) of the connecting thread 3. to shrink. Here, the “loop interval” is not the interval between the loop of the first ground structure 1 and the loop of the second ground structure 2 but the longitudinal direction or the latitude in each of the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2. It means the interval between adjacent loops in the direction. On the other hand, in the position where the connecting yarn 3 is knitted only in the first ground structure 1 and is not stretched between the first ground structure and the second ground structure, the loop of the second ground structure 2 marked with x is formed. Although not drawn, the loop interval is not reduced, but the loop of the first ground structure 1 marked with a black triangle in the drawing is drawn by the contraction force (tension) of the connecting yarn 3 to reduce the loop interval.

  With reference to FIG. 2, the shrinkage | contraction of the 1st ground structure 1 is demonstrated. FIG. 2 is a conceptual diagram showing a knitting structure of the first ground structure 1 of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10. In this figure, the broken line indicates the knitted fabric (sinker loop) of the first ground structure 1, and the solid line indicates the knitted fabric (sinker loop) of the connecting yarn 3. FIG. 2A is an example in which the first ground structure 1 is knitted with a denbi structure, and the connecting yarn 3 is knitted with a denbi structure along the sinker loop of the first ground structure 1. In this knitted structure, since the connecting yarns 3 are knitted in all the loops of the first ground structure 1, the tension in the direction in which the loops are drawn toward the first ground structure 1 in both the warp direction and the weft direction. Work. The knitting structure of the first ground structure 1 is not limited to that shown in FIG. 2A, and other knitting structures may be employed as long as the connecting yarns 3 are knitted evenly. FIG. 2B is an example in which a double denbi structure is knitted with the first ground structure 1 and the connecting yarn 3. FIG. 2C is an example in which the first ground structure 1 is knitted with a chain structure, and the connecting yarn 3 is knitted with a denbi structure along the sinker loop of the first ground structure 1. FIG. 2D shows an example in which a double cord structure is knitted with the first ground structure 1 and the connecting yarn 3. FIG. 2E shows an example in which the first ground structure 1 is knitted with a denbi structure and the connecting yarn 3 is knitted with a cord structure along the sinker loop of the first ground structure 1. In any of the knitting structures shown in FIGS. 2B to 2E, the connecting yarns 3 are evenly knitted on the first ground structure 1 in all regions. In both the weft directions, the tension in the direction in which the loop is attracted acts, and the knitted fabric contracts. As described above, the connecting yarns 3 are evenly knitted on the first ground structure 1 so that the stitches of the first ground structure 1 are evenly drawn, and the intervals between the loops are approximately equal in all regions. On the other hand, since the connected yarn 3 is not knitted in the non-connected region U in the second ground structure 2, the loop is not attracted in the non-connected region U, and the loop interval is wider than that of the connected region C. The connecting yarn 3 is knitted in all the loops of the first ground structure 1, but the connecting yarn 3 may be knitted so that the entire first ground structure 1 contracts approximately evenly. The connecting yarn 3 may be knitted with a half set in which every other knitting yarn is passed through the guide portion of the heel.

<Formation of bulge>
The formation of the bulging portion 4 will be described with reference to FIG. FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing a raw machine of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 and (b) a cross-sectional view schematically showing the finish of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10. In the present embodiment, the “raw machine of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10” means a state immediately after knitting by the warp knitting machine and before the loop interval is reduced by the contraction force (tension) of the connecting yarn 3. The “finish of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10” means a state after the loop interval is reduced by the contraction force (tension) of the connecting yarn 3. In the drawing, the non-connected region U is illustrated as an example in which the connected yarns 3 are knitted only in the first ground structure 1 in three loops continuous in the warp direction. The connecting yarn 3 may be a region that is knitted only in the first ground structure 1 and not knitted in the second ground structure 2 in the two or more loops. The connection region C is a region where the connection yarn 3 is knitted into both the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 at least one of the two adjacent loops.

  As shown in FIG. 3A, in the state of the living machine, all the loops of the first ground structure 1 and all the loops of the second ground structure 2 are knitted at approximately the same interval. From this state, the loop interval is reduced by the contraction force (tension) of the connecting yarn 3, and the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is in the finished state shown in FIG. In the finished state, in the first ground structure 1, all the loop intervals in which the connecting yarns are knitted as the ground texture are reduced. On the other hand, in the second ground structure 2, the loop of the connection area C is knitted with the connecting yarn 3, so that the loop interval is reduced by being pulled by the contraction of the first ground structure, but the loop of the non-connection area U is connected. Since the yarn 3 is not knitted, the loop interval is not reduced. However, since the first ground tissue 1 and the second ground tissue 2 are connected in the connection region C surrounding the non-connection region U, when the first ground tissue 1 in which the loop interval is reduced in the non-connection region U, The second ground structure 2 in which the loop interval is not reduced is also collected by the pressure from the second ground structure 2 in the surrounding connection region C. As a result, in the unconnected region U, the bulging portion 4 is formed by pushing out the second ground structure 2 pushed and collected in a narrow range without reducing the loop interval.

  The height h of the bulging portion 4 from the surface of the second ground structure 2 in the connection region C (hereinafter simply “height h of the bulging portion 4”) is the thickness of the knitting yarn, the knitting structure, and the knitting. Although it changes depending on the density, it increases as the number of stitches constituting one discontinuous region U increases. Therefore, in order to obtain a bulge effect that can be clearly recognized, the unconnected region U is preferably a region that continues for three or more loops in the weft direction. In particular, in order to form a bulge-shaped pattern with a high design by the bulging portion 4, the height h of the bulging portion 4 is preferably in the range of 2 to 30 mm, and preferably in the range of 2 to 10 mm. Is more preferable. In particular, the height h of the bulging portion 4 is more preferably in the range of 2 to 8 mm from the viewpoint of texture, pilling property, wearability, and basis weight when contacting the skin surface. The height h of the bulging portion 4 is measured by, for example, using a digital microscope (VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation), setting the camera perpendicular to the surface of the knitted fabric, photographing at a magnification of 100 times, and measuring. can do.

  In addition, in FIG. 3 (a) and (b), although formation of the bulging part 4 in the cross section along the warp direction of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 was demonstrated, in the cross section along the weft direction of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 Similarly, the bulging portion 4 is formed. In the cross section along the weft direction of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10, two or more connecting yarns 3 (2 loops) continuously arranged in the weft direction are knitted only in the first ground structure 1 and knitted in the second ground structure 2. A region that is not connected is a non-connected region U, and a region in which at least one of two adjacent connected yarns is knitted into both the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 is a connected region C. Furthermore, in order to obtain a bulge effect that can be clearly seen in the bulging portion 4, in the cross section along the weft direction of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10, three unconnected regions U are arranged continuously in the weft direction ( 3 loops) or more of the connecting yarns 3 is preferably a region knitted only in the first ground structure 1.

  Note that the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 has the loop interval reduced by the contraction force (tension) of the connecting yarn 3 without subjecting the raw machine to post-processing, and the raw machine shown in FIG. 3 (a) to FIG. 3 (b). Although it changes to the finish shown, post-processing such as dyeing, wet heat set, dry heat set, etc., may be performed on the raw machine of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 as necessary.

<Characteristics of three-dimensional warp knitted fabric>
[1] Raw Machine / Finish Shrinkage Ratio A characteristic of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 that affects the formation of the bulging portion 4 is the raw machine / finish shrinkage ratio of the first ground structure 1. The raw machine / finishing shrinkage ratio is calculated by the following procedure using the ratio of the loop density in the raw machine of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 and the loop density in the finishing. First, for the first ground structure 1, the number of loops in the warp direction per 2.54 cm (1 inch) and the number of loops in the weft direction per 2.54 cm in the raw machine are counted, and the unit area in the raw machine is calculated from the product. The number of loops Ng contained in (6.45 cm ² (1 square inch)) is calculated. Similarly for finishing, the number of loops in the warp direction per 2.54 cm and the number of loops in the weft direction per 2.54 cm are counted, and the loop included in the unit area (6.45 cm ² ) in the finishing from the product. The number Nf is calculated. From these values, the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate of the first ground structure 1 is calculated by the following equation.
Raw machine / finish shrinkage (%) = (1−Ng / Nf) × 100

  In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention, in order to form the bulging portion 4 so as to exhibit a bulge-like pattern, the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate of the first ground structure 1 is preferably 40 to 85%. 48 to 85% is more preferable. When the raw machine / finishing shrinkage rate of the first ground structure 1 is within such a range, a bulge-shaped handle can be formed by the bulging portion 4. If the raw / finish shrinkage ratio of the first ground structure 1 is less than 40%, the first ground structure 1 may not shrink sufficiently and the bulging portion 4 may not be formed. The unevenness of 2 may become too large, and it may be difficult to form a clean bulge-like pattern by the bulging portion 4.

[2] Difference in Shrinkage Ratio between Non-Connected Areas As another characteristic of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 that affects the formation of the bulging portion 4, A non-connected region shrinkage rate difference which is a difference between the raw tissue / finishing shrinkage rate of the ground tissue 2 can be mentioned. For calculating the difference between the shrinkage rates in the unconnected area, the raw machine / finish shrinkage ratio of the first ground structure 1 is obtained by the procedure described in [1] Fresh machine / finish shrinkage ratio, and the second ground texture 2 in the unconnected area U is obtained. In the same manner, the green machine / finishing shrinkage rate is obtained by the same procedure. From these values, the difference in shrinkage ratio of the unconnected regions is calculated by the following formula.
Non-connected region shrinkage rate difference (%) = first ground tissue 1 machine / finish shrinkage rate (%)-second ground tissue 2 machine / finish shrinkage rate (%)

  In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention, in order to form the bulging portion 4 so as to exhibit a bulge-shaped handle, the difference in shrinkage between the unconnected regions is preferably 20 to 80%, and 30 to 70%. It is more preferable that If the non-connected region shrinkage rate difference is in such a range, a bulge-shaped handle can be formed by the bulging portion 4. If the difference in shrinkage between the unconnected regions is less than 20%, the first ground tissue 1 does not sufficiently shrink, so that the second ground tissue 2 is not pushed together into the unconnected region U and the bulging portion 4 may not be formed. If it exceeds 80%, the unevenness of the second texture 2 becomes too large, and it may be difficult to form a clean bulge-like pattern by the bulging portion 4.

[3] Non-connected area ratio As another characteristic of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 that affects the formation of the bulging portion 4, the non-connected area ratio was examined. When the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 is knitted by a double raschel knitting machine, the non-connected area ratio is obtained by dividing the number of loops of the second ground structure 2 where the connected yarn 3 is not knitted by the total number of loops of the second ground structure 2. And can be calculated from the settings of the double raschel knitting machine.

In addition, a non-connected area | region rate can calculate the same value also with the following method as a ratio for which the non-connected area | region U accounts with respect to the area of the 1st ground organization 1. FIG. When the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is knitted using fiber materials having different colors for the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2, the unconnected region U and the connected region are formed from the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10. A cloth to be measured of any size including any of C is prepared. For example, when the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is a textile knitted so that the unconnected regions U and the connected regions C are repeatedly arranged in a predetermined pattern, the length of one cycle of the predetermined pattern is cut out. Thus, a suitable cloth to be measured can be obtained. Image data is obtained by reading the surface of the first cloth 1 side of the cloth to be measured with a scanner. In this image data, the color component of the fiber material constituting the second ground structure 2 is included in the connection region C in which the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 are connected. Based on this color component, the unconnected region U and the connected region C of the image data are binarized into white and black, and white dot portions are totaled by integration to obtain an unconnected region area. The unconnected area ratio is calculated according to the following formula.
Non-connected region ratio (%) = non-connected region area / area of cloth to be measured × 100

  In the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention, the unconnected area ratio is set to 15 to 70%, preferably 20 to 60%. If the unconnected area ratio is less than 15%, there is a risk that a bulge-shaped handle will not be expressed or the texture may become hard. When the non-connected area ratio exceeds 70%, the non-connected areas U increase, the dimensional stability of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 is poor, and the desired width and bulge pattern may not be obtained.

[4] Opening ratio In order to form the bulging portion 4 in the second ground structure 2, a structure having an opening composed of a chain knitting structure and an insertion knitting structure may be adopted as the knitting structure of the second ground structure 2. desirable. This is because the use of the chain knitting and the insertion knitting suppresses the expansion and contraction of the fabric, which is advantageous for forming the bulging portion 4. Therefore, when a structure having an opening made of a chain knitted structure and an insertion knitted structure is adopted as the knitted structure of the second ground structure 2, the opening ratio of the second ground structure 2 becomes a characteristic of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10. The effect was examined.

As a method for measuring the aperture ratio of the second ground structure 2, the fabric to be tested is prepared by cutting the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 into a size of 5 cm × 5 cm at the position where the bulging portion 4 is formed. Next, image data is obtained by reading the surface of the fabric under test on the second ground tissue 2 side with a scanner. In this image data, the opening area and the non-opening area of the second texture 2 are binarized into white and black, and the white dot portions are totaled by integration to obtain the opening area. The aperture ratio is calculated according to the following formula.
Opening ratio (%) = opening area / area of cloth to be tested × 100

  In the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 of the present invention, the opening ratio of the second ground structure 2 in the unconnected region U is preferably 15 to 80%, and more preferably 20 to 70%. If the opening ratio is within this range, the texture of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 can be reduced, and air permeability is not impaired. If the opening ratio is less than 15%, the texture of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 may be hardened or air permeability may be impaired, and if it is more than 80%, the bulging portion 4 may be difficult to be formed.

[5] Maximum opening diameter When a structure having an opening composed of a chain stitch structure and an insertion knitting structure is adopted as the knitting structure of the second ground structure 2, the maximum opening diameter of the opening in the unconnected region U is 0.2. It is preferably ˜30 mm, more preferably 0.5 to 20 mm. If the maximum opening diameter is within this range, the texture of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 can be reduced, and further, air permeability is not impaired. If the maximum opening diameter of the opening is less than 0.2 mm, the texture of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 may be hardened or air permeability may be impaired. If the maximum opening diameter of the opening is larger than 30 mm, the bulging portion 4 may not be formed easily.

<Example of knitting of three-dimensional warp knitted fabric>
The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 according to the present invention can be knitted using, for example, a double raschel knitting machine having six ridges (guide bars) L1 to L6 as shown in FIG. In FIG. 4, N1 and N2 are front and rear two rows of needles arranged in parallel in the knitting machine width direction, T1 and T2 are front and rear needle hooks (trick plates), and Y1 to Y6 are each bar (guide bar) L1 The knitting yarn passed through the guide portions G1 to G6 of L6 is shown. B1 to B6 indicate beams of the respective knitting yarns.

  When knitting the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 in the knitting by the double raschel knitting machine of FIG. 4, the knitting yarn Y1 guided to at least one kite (guide bar) L1 is used as the ground yarn, and the needle N1 (hereinafter, “ The 2nd ground structure 2 used as the surface is knitted by F needle | hook "). For example, the second ground structure 2 may be knitted with F needles using the knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 guided to the two ridges (guide bars) L1 and L2 as ground yarns. Alternatively, the second ground structure 2 may be knitted with F needles using the knitting yarns Y1, Y2, and Y3 guided to the three kites (guide bars) L1, L2, and L3 as ground yarns. Further, the first ground structure 1 serving as the back surface is knitted by a needle N2 (hereinafter referred to as “B needle”) using the knitting yarn Y5 introduced to at least one heel (guide bar) L5 as a ground yarn. For example, the first ground structure 1 may be knitted with the B needle using the knitting yarns Y5 and Y6 guided to the two ridges (guide bars) L5 and L6 as the ground yarn. Here, it is particularly preferable that the knitting yarn used for the first ground structure 1 is knitted with a knitting yarn with little expansion and contraction. When the expansion and contraction is large, when the tension that draws in the warp direction and the weft direction is applied to the loop of the first ground structure 1 by the elastic force of the connecting yarn 3, the loop interval is not reduced but the knitting yarn is extended. As a result, there is a possibility that the first ground structure 1 does not sufficiently contract.

  In the knitting by the double raschel knitting machine, the warp density (course) of the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 in the raw machine is preferably knitted at 20 to 75 courses / 2.54 cm, and the hardness of the knitted fabric Further, it is more preferable that the knitting is performed at 30 to 65 courses / 2.54 cm from the height difference of the bulging portion 4. Further, the weft density (well) is preferably knitted at 16 to 60 wells / 2.54 cm, and knitted at 20 to 50 wells / 2.54 cm due to the hardness of the knitted fabric and the height difference of the bulging portion 4. More preferably.

  In the knitting by the double raschel knitting machine, the knitting yarns Y3 and Y4 introduced to the heels (guide bars) L3 and L4 are alternately knitted into the first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 by the F needle and the B needle. The first ground organization 1 and the second ground organization 2 are connected. In this case, stretch (elastic) knitting yarns are used as the knitting yarns Y3 and Y4 guided to the heels (guide bars) L3 and L4. Among them, the polyurethane elastic yarn has high elasticity, so that when the connecting yarn 3 is knitted only to the first ground structure 1, the tension that pulls the loop interval of the first ground structure 1 is strong, and the formation of the bulging portion 4 is expected. it can.

  FIG. 5 is a structure diagram illustrating a knitting structure of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10. By knitting the knitting structure shown in FIG. 5A with a double raschel knitting machine, the portion corresponding to the connecting region C of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 can be knitted. By knitting the knitting structure shown in FIG. 5 (b) with a double raschel knitting machine, a portion corresponding to the unconnected region U of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 can be knitted. In the organization chart of FIG. 5A, the F needle is composed of the knitting yarn Y1 guided to the heel (guide bar) L1 and the knitting yarn Y2 guided to the heel (guide bar) L2. 2 Knit (guide bar) which knits the first ground structure 1 of the chain knitting with the knitting yarn Y5 which is knitted into the ground structure 2 and the B needle is guided to the heel (guide bar) L5. The first ground structure 1 and the second ground structure 2 are alternately connected with the knitting yarn Y3 guided to the L3-1 and the knitting yarn Y4 guided to the heel (guide bar) L4-1. This means that a certain knitted fabric is being knitted. In the organization chart of FIG. 5 (b), the F needle is composed of a knitting yarn Y1 guided to the heel (guide bar) L1 and a knitting yarn Y2 guided to the heel (guide bar) L2. 2 Knit (guide bar) which knits the first ground structure 1 of knitting with the knitting yarn Y5 which is knitted into the ground structure 2 and the B needle is guided to the heel (guide bar) L5. The knitting yarn Y3 guided to the L3-2 and the knitting yarn Y4 guided to the heel (guide bar) L4-2 are guided to the heel (guide bar) L-5 knitting the first ground structure 1. The knitting yarn Y5 is knitted by the B needle. In particular, the knitting yarn Y4 guided to the heel (guide bar) L4-2 is knitted so as to overlap with the inner side (sinker loop side) of the heel (guide bar) L5.

  Note that the knitting structure of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 is not limited to that shown in FIG. FIG. 6 is a structure diagram illustrating another knitting structure of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10. For example, as shown in FIG. 6 (a), the second ground structure 2 is formed by a marquette knitting using the knitting yarns Y1, Y2, and Y3 guided to the three ridges (guide bars) L1, L2, and L3 as the ground yarn. It may be a knitted configuration. With the knitting structure shown in FIGS. 5 and 6 (a), a small opening can be formed in the second ground structure 2, and the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric 10 excellent in air permeability can be knitted.

  As another example, as shown in FIG. 6B or FIG. 6C, a portion corresponding to the connection region C of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric 10 may be knitted. The organization chart of FIG. 6 (b) shows that the second ground structure is formed by net knitting by using a yarn threading method by using the knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 guided to the two wrinkles (guide bars) L1 and L2 as ground yarns. 2 is organized. The organization chart of FIG. 6 (c) shows that the second ground is formed by knitting the knitting yarns Y1 and Y2 guided to the two ridges (guide bars) L1 and L2 into a full set and a denvi knitting and a cord knitting. It shows that organization 2 is knitted in half.

  Next, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to the present invention will be described in more detail based on specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to these.

  The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric (Examples 1 to 7) and the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric (Comparative Examples 1 to 6) outside the scope of the present invention are subjected to various measurements and evaluations, and the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric. The relationship between the structure and performance was investigated. The measurement items were the thickness T of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric, the height h of the bulging portion 4, and the items described in “Characteristics of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric” [1] Raw machine / finish shrinkage, [2] Non- The connection area shrinkage ratio difference, [4] opening ratio, and [5] maximum opening diameter. The evaluation was performed on the following [6] presence / absence of swelling and [7] dimensional stability.

[6] Swelling feeling Three evaluators visually observed the presence or absence of a swelling feeling due to the bulging portion 4. The evaluation criterion was that there was a sensation when there were two or more evaluators who felt the sensation.

[7] Dimensional stability The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric was processed according to JIS L0217 103 method, and the dimensional stability of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabric was evaluated. The evaluation criteria are as follows.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: The dimensional change rate before and after the treatment was within a range of -3 to 3% in both the warp direction and the weft direction.
X: The dimensional change rate before and after the treatment exceeded the range of -3 to 3% in both the warp direction and the weft direction.

<Examples 1-7>
In the double raschel knitting machine, using the yarns shown in Table 1, the knitting structure shown in FIG. 7A and the knitting structure shown in FIG. 7B are alternately repeated so that the unconnected area ratio becomes 30%. By knitting the unconnected region U and the connected region C repeatedly, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of Example 1 was obtained. FIGS. 7A and 7B are (a) an organization chart of the knitting structure in the unconnected area U of the first embodiment, and (b) an organization chart of the knitting structure in the connecting area C of the first embodiment.

  In the double raschel knitting machine, the unconnected region U and the connected region C are repeatedly knitted in the double raschel knitting machine with the yarn use, the structure, and the unconnected region rate different from those of the first example in the same manner as in the first example. 2 to 7 three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics were obtained. Table 1 shows the yarn usage, the structure, and the unconnected area ratio used in the knitting of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 7.

<Comparative Examples 1-6>
In a double raschel knitting machine, the unconnected region U and the connected region C are repeatedly knitted in the double raschel knitting machine in the same manner as in the first example, with the yarn use, the structure, and the non-connected region ratio, respectively. 1 to 6 three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics were obtained. Table 2 shows the yarn usage, the structure, and the unconnected area ratio used in the knitting of the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 6.

〔Study results〕
The structures and performances of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 7 are summarized in Table 3, and the structures and performances of the three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 are summarized in Table 4.

  As for the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of Examples 1-7, as for all, as a result of using the fiber material which contains an elastic yarn for connecting yarn 3, and knitting in the range of 15-70% which specifies a non-connecting area rate in the present invention, The thickness T was in the range of 1.5 to 15 mm suitable in the present invention, and the height h of the bulging portion 4 was in the range of 2 to 15 mm suitable in the present invention. Moreover, as for the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of Examples 1-7, all have the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate of the 1st ground structure 1 in the range of 40 to 85% prescribed | regulated by this invention, and a non-connection area | region shrinkage difference. It was in the range of 20 to 80% defined in the present invention. Moreover, Examples 1-6 which knit the 2nd ground structure 2 by the structure | tissue which has an opening have the opening rate in the range of 15-80% suitable in this invention, and the largest opening diameter is 0 suitable in this invention. Within the range of 2-20 mm. As a result, in all of Examples 1 to 7, the swelling feeling due to the bulging portion 4 was clearly confirmed. As for dimensional stability, Examples 1 to 7 all showed good results. As described above, the three-dimensional warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 7 in which the unconnected area ratio, the green machine / finishing shrinkage ratio, and the unconnected area shrinkage difference are within the numerical ranges defined in the present invention are suitable for the height h. It was confirmed that a bulge-shaped handle was developed and the dimensional stability was excellent by forming the bulging portion 4 having the above.

  On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 using a fiber material that does not include an elastic yarn as the connecting yarn 3, the raw machine / finishing shrinkage rate of the first ground structure 1 is smaller than the range of 40 to 85% defined in the present invention. Value, and the difference in shrinkage of the unconnected region is smaller than the range of 20 to 80% defined in the present invention. As a result, in all of Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the height h of the bulging portion 4 was smaller than the preferred range of 2 to 15 mm in the present invention, and the bulge feeling due to the bulging portion 4 could not be confirmed. Although the comparative example 5 used the fiber raw material which contains an elastic yarn for the connection thread 3, as a result of knitting by 10% smaller than the range of 15 to 70% prescribed | regulated by this invention in the non-connection area ratio, The height h was smaller than the preferred range of 2 to 15 mm in the present invention, and the bulge feeling due to the bulging portion 4 could not be confirmed. In Comparative Example 6, a fiber material including an elastic yarn was used for the connecting yarn 3 and a swelling feeling due to the bulging portion 4 could be confirmed, but the dimensional stability was poor. This is presumably because Comparative Example 6 knits the unconnected area ratio at 85%, which is larger than the range of 15 to 70% defined in the present invention.

  Thus, the three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in which the raw machine / finish shrinkage rate and the difference in shrinkage of the unconnected region are out of the numerical ranges defined in the present invention, and the unconnected region rate are defined in the present invention. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric of Comparative Example 5 that is smaller than the numerical value range does not express the swelling pattern due to the bulging portion 4, and the Comparative Example 6 in which the unconnected area ratio exceeds the numerical value range defined in the present invention is It was confirmed that the stability was poor.

  The three-dimensional warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be used as a highly designable clothing having a bulge-like pattern, and can also be used for clothing clothing such as women's clothing.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 1st ground structure 2 2nd ground structure 3 Connection thread 4 Swelling part 10 Three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric C Connection area U Non-connection area

Claims (5)

A three-dimensional warp knitted fabric comprising a first ground structure, a second ground structure facing the first ground structure, and a connecting yarn that connects the first ground structure and the second ground structure,
The connecting yarn includes an elastic yarn,
A connection region in which at least one of adjacent connection yarns is stretched between the first ground structure and the second ground structure and is knitted in both the first ground structure and the second ground structure,
None of the adjacent connected yarns are spanned between the first ground structure and the second ground structure, and a non-connected region knitted only in the first ground structure;
Have
The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric in which the proportion of the area occupied by the non-connected region is 15 to 70% in the first ground structure. When the number of loops included in the unit area in the raw machine is Ng, and the number of loops included in the unit area in the finish is Nf,
Raw machine / finish shrinkage (%) = (1−Ng / Nf) × 100
The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the raw machine / finishing shrinkage ratio obtained by the step is 40 to 85% in the first ground structure.   3. The three-dimensional structure warp knitting according to claim 2, wherein, in the unconnected region, a difference between a raw machine / finish shrinkage ratio of the first ground structure and a raw machine / finish shrinkage ratio of the second ground structure is 20 to 80%. Earth.   In the non-connected region, all of three (three loops) or more connected yarns arranged continuously in the weft direction are knitted only in the first ground structure continuously in three or more loops in the warp direction. The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to any one of 1 to 3.   The three-dimensional structure warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the connection region and the non-connection region are repeatedly arranged in a predetermined pattern.

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