JP2016088911A - Composition having high coating characteristics - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composition, preferably, a cosmetic composition that can effectively cover or conceal the defect of a skin and can provide a desired cosmetic effect, for example, a good fit feeling.SOLUTION: The present invention relates to, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the composition comprising: (a) at least one paste-like substance having 1000 or more of the molecular weight and less than 50°C melting point; (b) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and preferably (c) at least one pigment, wherein (a) the amount of the paste-like substance is more than 1.0 mass% relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention can well cover or conceal the defect of the skin and can provide the desired cosmetic effect, for example, the good fit feeling. In addition, the composition according to the invention is smoothly spread on the skin and a cosmetic film, which is provided by the application of the composition, is uniform on the skin.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition having a desired cosmetic effect, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one pasty substance, at least one silicone elastomer, and optionally at least one pigment / filler.

  Increasing the amount of pigment / filler in the cosmetic composition is a common solution to cover or hide skin color defects, such as stains, along with skin relief defects, such as pores. Because these small particles have strong light scattering and absorption.

  In addition, the introduction of the silicone elastomer into the cosmetic composition increases the thickness of the cosmetic film formed by application of the composition on the skin, thereby increasing the covering or hiding ability of the cosmetic film. A good way to do it. However, such materials make it difficult to adhere the composition on the skin and give a strong slippery sensation upon application.

  Therefore, compositions with high covering power and good adhesion to the skin, especially cosmetic compositions, are required to maintain a high covering and provide a good fit sensation when applied .

EP-A-295 886 EP 242 219 EP 285 886 EP 765 656 JP 61-194009 US Pat. No. 5,553,793 USP-3438796 EP-A-227423 USP-5135812 EP-A-170439 EP-A-341002 USP-4930866 USP-5641719 EP-A-472371 EP-A-395410 EP-A-753545 EP-A-768343 EP-A-571836 EP-A-708154 EP-A-579091 USP-5411586 USP-5364467 WO97 / 39066 DE-A-4225031 WO95 / 17479 DE-A-19614637 Patent application EP-A-1046 692 US Patent Application Publication No. 2004-175338 EP-A-847 752

  One object of the present invention is to provide a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, that can effectively cover or conceal skin defects and provide a desired cosmetic effect, for example, a good fit. It is. It is preferred that the composition spreads smoothly on the skin and the cosmetic film provided by application of the composition can be uniform on the skin.

The object of the present invention is to provide a physiologically acceptable medium,
(a) at least one pasty substance having a molecular weight of 1000 or more and a melting point of less than 50 ° C., and
(b) comprises at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer,
(a) the amount of the pasty substance is more than 1.0% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition;
It can be achieved with a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.

  (a) The pasty substance is preferably a lipophilic aliphatic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change. (a) The pasty substance preferably has a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 33 ° C. More preferably, the liquid fraction of the (a) pasty substance accounts for 20 to 97% by weight of the (a) pasty substance as measured at 33 ° C.

  (a) The pasty substance may be selected from synthetic compounds and plant-derived compounds.

(a) Paste materials include lanolin and its derivatives, polymer or non-polymer silicone compounds, polymer or non-polymer fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers such as olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, preferably homo- vinyl esters and copolymers oligomer having a linear or branched homopolymer or copolymer oligomer, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group of the alkyl (meth) acrylate having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, C ₈ -C vinyl ether homopolymer and copolymer oligomers having ₃₀ alkyl group, one or more C ₂ -C liposoluble polyethers resulting from poly etherification between ₁₀₀ diol, esters and polyesters, and are selected from the group consisting of a mixture thereof May be. The composition is bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), or a combination thereof. The mixture may include (a) a pasty substance.

  (a) The pasty substance is present in the composition in an amount ranging from more than 1.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. You may do it.

  (b) The silicone elastomer is preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or powder.

  (b) The silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. May be.

  The mass ratio of (a) pasty substance to (b) silicone elastomer may be 0.5 to 10, preferably 1.0 to 7.5, more preferably 1.5 to 5.0.

  The composition comprises at least one pigment, preferably at least one inorganic pigment, more preferably titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, It is preferable to further include at least one pigment selected from the group consisting of ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and metal powder.

  The composition comprises at least one filler, preferably at least one inorganic filler, more preferably talc, mica, silica, silylated silica, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, It is preferable to further include at least one inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite.

  The pigment is preferably surface-treated.

  The pigment may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The composition is preferably a makeup product such as a foundation.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic method comprising the step of applying at least one layer of the above composition to the skin, in particular the facial skin. The above composition may be applied as a makeup product such as a foundation.

  As a result of intensive studies, the inventors have found that the use of at least one pasty material having a molecular weight of 1000 or more and a melting point of less than 50 ° C. is at least one silicone elastomer, and optionally at least one pigment. It has been found that the composition comprising the filler / filler can enhance the covering or hiding ability for skin defects and enhance the adhesion of the composition on the skin.

Thus, the composition according to the invention, preferably a cosmetic composition, is in a physiologically acceptable medium,
(a) at least one pasty substance having a molecular weight of 1000 or more and a melting point of less than 50 ° C., and
(b) comprises at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer,
(a) The amount of the pasty substance is more than 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention can effectively cover or conceal skin defects and can provide a desired cosmetic effect, for example a good fit. In addition, the composition according to the invention spreads smoothly on the skin, and the cosmetic film provided by application of the composition is uniform on the skin.

  Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can reduce skin defects such as stains and pore visibility, provide an excellent concealing cosmetic effect with a natural finish, and provide a uniform skin tone.

  The cosmetic method according to the present invention using the above composition can provide the above cosmetic effect. The above cosmetic effect can last for a long time, for example, all day.

  Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention and the cosmetic method according to the present invention will be described in detail.

[Composition]
The composition according to the invention is in a physiologically acceptable medium,
(a) at least one pasty substance having a molecular weight of 1000 or more and a melting point of less than 50 ° C.,
(b) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and
(c) preferably comprises at least one pigment,
(a) The amount of the pasty substance is more than 1.0% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition, more preferably a liquid cosmetic composition.

  The term “liquid” above refers to a composition that can flow under its own weight at room temperature, for example 25 ° C., as opposed to a solid composition that does not flow under its own weight.

(Paste-like substance)
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one pasty substance. Two or more pasty substances can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of pasty material or a combination of different types of pasty materials can be used.

  “Paste-like substance” in the sense of the present invention is 1000 or more, preferably 1180 or more, more preferably 1200 or more, even more preferably 1300 or more, and a melting point of less than 50 ° C., preferably 45 ° C. or less, more It is understood to mean a lipophilic aliphatic compound having preferably 40 ° C. or lower, more preferably 35 ° C. or lower, preferably 15 ° C. or higher, more preferably 20 ° C. or higher.

  The molecular weight of the pasty substance may be 10000 or less, preferably 7000 or less, more preferably 4000 or less, and even more preferably 2000 or less.

  The pasty substance is preferably a lipophilic aliphatic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 33 ° C.

  Therefore, the pasty substance is preferably in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 33 ° C. In other words, the starting melting point of the paste-like substance is preferably less than 33 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty substance measured at 33 ° C. may account for 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty substance. At 33 ° C., this liquid fraction more preferably accounts for 25 to 85% by weight of the pasty substance, better still 30 to 60% by weight.

  The liquid fraction of the pasty material at 33 ° C is by mass equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 33 ° C to the melting enthalpy of the pasty material.

  The melting enthalpy consumed at 33 ° C is the amount of energy that the sample absorbs as it changes from a solid state to a state consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at 33 ° C.

  The enthalpy of melting of the pasty substance is the enthalpy consumed because this substance changes from a solid state to a liquid state. A pasty substance is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in solid form. A pasty substance is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

  The melting enthalpy of paste-like substances is increased by 5 ° C or 10 ° C per minute according to ISO standard 11357-3: 1999, and is sold under the name of Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), eg MD Instruments 2920 by TA Instruments. Equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained by a calorimeter. The enthalpy of melting of a pasty substance is the amount of energy required to bring this substance from a solid state to a liquid state. This is expressed in J / g.

  The liquid fraction of the pasty substance, measured at 35 ° C., preferably accounts for 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty substance, and even better 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty substance measured at 35 ° C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty substance is 35 ° C or less.

  The liquid fraction of the pasty substance measured at 35 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 35 ° C. to the melting enthalpy of the pasty substance. The melting enthalpy consumed at 35 ° C is calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at 33 ° C.

  The pasty substance preferably has a hardness in the range of 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably 0.002 to 0.4 MPa at 20 ° C.

  The hardness is measured by a method of penetrating the probe into the compound sample with a texture analyzer (for example, TA-XT2i manufactured by Rheo) having a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. The hardness measurement is performed at the center of 5 samples at 20 ° C. A cylinder is introduced into each sample and the penetration depth is 0.3 mm. The value stated for hardness is the value of the maximum peak.

  The pasty substance can be selected from synthetic compounds and plant-derived compounds. Pasty substances are obtained by synthesis from plant-derived starting materials.

The pasty substance is advantageously
Lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, ethoxylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, esters of lanolin, such as isopropyl lanolinate, and propoxylated lanolin,
Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy type side chains with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicone,
Polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,
Vinyl polymers, in particular homopolymers of olefins, copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated diene, preferably an alkyl (meth) acrylates of linear or branched homo- having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group -, or copolymers oligomers, homo- vinyl esters having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group - or copolymer oligomer, homo vinyl ether having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group - or copolymer oligomer,
One or more C ₂ -C _100, preferably liposoluble polyethers resulting from poly etherification between C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,
Esters and polyesters,
As well as mixtures thereof.

  The pasty substance can be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

  A preferred silicone and fluorinated pasty material is polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyldimethylsiloxane manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name X22-1088.

  When the pasty material is a silicone and / or a fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as a short chain ester such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Among the fat-soluble polyethers, mention may be made in particular of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkylene oxide. Preferably, the mass ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, block copolymers containing blocks of C _{6 to} C ₃₀ alkylene oxide having a molecular weight in the range of 1,000 to 10,000, for example polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymers, such as the ELFACOS ST9 trademark by Akzo Nobel Particular mention may be made of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 ethylene oxide or EO units) ethers commercially available in

Among the esters, the following:
Esters of oligomers of glycerol, especially esters of diglycerol, especially condensation products of adipic acid and glycerol, where some of the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are fatty acids such as capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid A bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 marketed under the trademark Softisan 649, in particular by the company Sasol,
Phytosterol esters,
Ester of pentaerythritol,
Esters formed from at least one _C16-40 alcohol and at least one unsaturated _C18-40 fatty acid, at least one of which is Gerve alcohol, for example, a tall oil fatty acid dimer containing 36 carbon atoms; i) Gerve alcohol containing 32 carbon atoms and ii) ester with a mixture of behenyl alcohol, linoleic acid dimer and two gerbealcohols 2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2- Ester with a mixture of hexadecyl eicosanol (36 carbon atoms),
Non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids with C ₂ -C ₅₀ diol or polyol,
A polyester obtained from esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and an ester of a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example an ester obtained from an esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dimer linoleic acid or isostearic acid, Risocast DA-L (Dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil) and Risocast DA-H marketed by Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.
Aliphatic ester esters obtained from esterification between hydrogenated aliphatic carboxylic acids and aliphatic carboxylic acids, for example isostearic acid sold under the brand name Salacos HClS (V) -L by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd. Hydrogenated castor oil, as well as esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer copolymers, such as esters of dilinoleyl diol dimer / dilinoleic acid dimer copolymers, such as Plandool-G [Dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilino by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. Railbis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl)], hexa (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythrityl sold by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd. under the brand name SALACOS 168AR, and Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd. Under the brand name of SALACOS 168EV Sale has been and tetra (hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl is particularly preferred.

  Gerve alcohol is a reaction product of the Gerbe reaction and is well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction that converts a primary aliphatic alcohol to the β-alkylated dimer alcohol derived from it by the loss of one equivalent of water.

  The above aliphatic carboxylic acids generally contain from 4 to 30, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These are preferably hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid Isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.

The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester is advantageously 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms, better 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 Derived from hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acids containing 1 hydroxyl group, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and better still 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic esters are in particular
a) a partial or complete ester of a linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid,
b) a partial or complete ester of an unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid,
c) a partial or complete ester of a saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,
d) a partial or complete ester of a saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,
e) a partial or complete ester of a C ₂ to C ₁₆ aliphatic polyol reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid,
f) and mixtures thereof.

  The aliphatic ester of the ester is advantageously an ester obtained from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acid in a 1 to 1 (1/1) ratio, called isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil. An ester obtained from an esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acid in a ratio of 1 to 2 (1/2), called hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil called triisostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil It is selected from esters obtained from esterification reactions of oil and isostearic acid in a ratio of 1 to 3 (1/3), and mixtures thereof.

  In one embodiment, the pasty substance is selected from plant-derived compounds.

  Among these, isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured by or sold under the name Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, orange wax such as Koster Keunen In particular under the name Orange Peel Wax, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example compounds marketed under the name Beurrolive by Soliance, cocoa butter, and mango oil, for example Lipex 302 from Aarhus Karlshamn Can be mentioned.

  The pasty substance is in an amount of more than 1.0% by weight, for example more than 1.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 2.0% by weight or more, for example 2.0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is present in an amount in the range of%, more preferably in an amount in the range of 3.0% to 20% by weight.

(Silicone elastomer)
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone elastomer. Two or more silicone elastomers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone elastomer or a combination of different types of silicone elastomers can be used.

  In one preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

  The non-emulsifiable silicone elastomer may be in the form of a gel or a powder.

  “Organopolysiloxane elastomers” or “silicone elastomers” make it possible to thicken the compositions according to the invention and to improve their application properties. It provides a very gentle frosted sensation after application and is particularly advantageous for application to the skin. The elastomer is a gel or a soft powder.

  The expression “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” means a soft and deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties, in particular a sponge or soft sphere consistency. Its modulus of elasticity shall make this material resistant to deformation and shall have limited extensibility and shrinkage. This material can recover its original shape after extension.

  More specifically, it is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  Accordingly, organopolysiloxane elastomers are diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of organotin; By a crosslinking condensation reaction; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst. ; Gamma rays, may be obtained by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as ultraviolet rays or electron beams.

  Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens, each bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C), for example as described in patent application EP-A-295 886. It is obtained by a cross-linking addition reaction of (A) and a diorganopolysiloxane (B) containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst. .

  Compound (A) is a base reagent for formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer, and crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction between compound (A) and compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

  Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

  Compound (A) may have an arbitrary molecular structure, particularly a linear or branched structure or a cyclic structure.

  Compound (A) may have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. so as to be particularly compatible with compound (B).

  The organic group bonded to the silicon atom of the compound (A) is an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; a substitution such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl It may be an alkyl group; an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group or a mercapto group.

  Thus, compound (A) is selected from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers. Also good.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g., C ₂ -C _4), lower alkenyl groups include vinyl, be selected from allyl and propenyl Good. These lower alkenyl groups may be at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the end of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched, linear, cyclic or network structure, but a linear structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a rubber state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

  In addition to the alkenyl group described above, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atom in the compound (B) are alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3 Substituted alkyl groups such as 1,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbons such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups or mercapto groups It may be a system group.

  Organopolysiloxane (B) includes methyl vinyl polysiloxane, methyl vinyl siloxane-dimethyl siloxane copolymer, dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane-methyl phenyl siloxane copolymer containing dimethyl vinyl siloxy end groups, dimethyl siloxane Dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing vinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups Copolymer, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and di- Dimethylsiloxane containing chill endblocked group - may be selected from methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and methylhydrogen polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst. .

  Advantageously, the sum of the number per molecule of ethylenic groups in compound (B) and the number per hydrogen molecule bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) is at least 5.

  Compound (A) has a molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) from 1.5 / 1. It is advantageous to add in an amount in the range 20/1.

  Compound (C) is a catalyst for cross-linking reaction, especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black and platinum on the support. .

  Catalyst (C) is preferably a clean platinum metal, from 0.1 parts by weight to 1000 parts by weight, and even better from 1 part by weight to 100 parts by weight per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B). Added in parts.

  The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifiable elastomer.

  The term “non-emulsifying” characterizes organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain any hydrophilic chains and in particular do not contain any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not include polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

  Non-emulsifiable elastomers are described inter alia in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in the patent application JP 61-194009.

  Non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used are more specifically KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-19, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. -43 and KSG-44, sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 9040 and DC 9041, and sold by General Electric under the name SFE 839 Things are included.

  Spherical non-emulsifiable elastomers that can be used include those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9240, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506.

  In one embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are carried in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in gel form include INCI name product dimethicone crosspolymers such as dimethicone crosslinked with C _3-20 alkyl groups such as DC9041, DC9240 and DC9045 from Dow Corning.

  In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a powder.

  Preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in powder form include INCI name products dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers such as DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning and KSG6 from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

  In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. Silicone elastomer powders are spherical and are obtained, among other things, through the process of synthesizing the non-emulsifiable elastomers described above. The silicone elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, for example as described in US Pat. No. 5,553,793, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Such elastomer powders coated with a silicone resin are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., among others. Such a powder corresponds to the INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. As an elastomer powder coated with a preferable silicone resin, KSP100 can be used.

  The silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness of 80 or less (especially in the range of 5 to 80), preferably 65 or less (especially in the range of 5 to 65). JIS-A hardness is measured by the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japan Industrial Standards Committee.

  In particular, the silicone elastomer particles may have an average size of 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably 3 to 200 μm, and even better 10 to 20 μm. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous, preferably spherical.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer or silicone elastomer is generally 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition in the composition of the present invention. In the range of active substance content (= dry substance).

  The mass ratio of (a) pasty substance to (b) silicone elastomer may be 0.5 to 10, preferably 1.0 to 7.5, more preferably 1.5 to 5.0.

(Pigment)
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pigment. Two or more pigments can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of pigment or a combination of different types of pigments can be used.

  The term “pigment” should be understood to mean any shape of white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in physiological media and intended to color the composition.

  The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

  Among the inorganic pigments that can be used according to the invention, optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , Chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder.

  Among the organic pigments that can be used according to the present invention, carbon black, D & C type pigments and cochineal carmine based and barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum based lakes are further included without limitation.

  It is also possible to use at least one goniochromatic pigment. This pigment exhibits a relatively large color change depending on the angle of observation.

  The goniochromatic pigment can be selected from, for example, a multilayer interference structure pigment and a liquid crystal pigment.

In the case of a multi-layer structure, this structure is, for example, that each layer is independent of other layers or in other ways, for example the following materials: MgF ₂ , CeF ₃ , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO ₂ , Ge , Te, Fe ₂ O ₃ , Pt, Va, Al ₂ O ₃ , MgO, Y ₂ O ₃ , S ₂ O ₃ , SiO, HfO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , CeO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , Ta ₂ O ₅ , _{TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au} , Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, made from at least one material selected from alloys and polymers, at least two layers May be included.

Examples of multilayer structures that can be used in goniochromatic pigments are the following structures: Al / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Al, Cr / MgF ₂ / Al / MgF ₂ / Al, MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ , Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ , MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Mica Oxides / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / mica-oxide / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ . Depending on the thickness of the various layers, different colors are obtained. Thus, in the structure Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ , the color is from greenish gold to reddish gray in the SiO ₂ layer in the range of 320 to 350 nm, from 380 The SiO ₂ layer in the range of 400 nm changes from red to gold, the SiO ₂ layer in the range of 410 to 420 nm changes from violet to green, and the SiO ₂ layer from 430 to 440 nm changes from copper to red.

  Thus, the multilayer structure may be inorganic or organic. Depending on the thickness of the various layers, different colors are obtained.

  Examples of the goniochromatic pigment having a multilayer interference structure disclosed in the present specification include, for example, the following documents: USP-3438796, EP-A-227423, USP-5135812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-341002, USP-4930866. , USP-5641719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, USP-5411586 USP-5364467, WO 97/39066, DE-A-4225031, WO 95/17479, DE-A-19614637, and combinations thereof. These may be in the form of metallized flakes.

  In one embodiment, the goniochromatic pigments having a multi-layer interference structure include the following commercially available goniochromatic pigments: Shiseido Infinite Colors, BASF Sicopearl Fantastico, Merck Colorstream, Xirallic or Xirona, and Flex Colorglitter. It may be selected.

  Examples of the goniochromatic pigment having a multilayer structure include those sold under the name “Sicopearl”.

  For example, it is also possible to use at least one liquid crystal pigment described in patent application EP-A-1046 692.

  For example, the liquid crystal particles that can be used are known by the CTFA name polyacrylate-4, and are manufactured by Wacker, Inc., `` Helicone (registered trademark) HC Sapphire '', `` Helicone (registered trademark) HC Scarabeus '', `` Helicone (registered trademark) HC Jade "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC Maple "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Sapphire "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Scarabeus "," Helicone (registered trademark) HC XL Jade "and" Helicone (registered trademark) " ) Includes products sold under the name “HC XL Maple”.

  It is also possible to use at least one pearlescent pigment. The term “pearlescent pigment” should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent particles produced, for example, or synthesized in certain mollusk shells.

  Pearlescent pigments are white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, such as titanium mica coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, It can be selected from titanium mica coated with organic pigments of the type described above and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The amount of pigment in the composition of the present invention may be in the range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Filler)
The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one filler. Two or more fillers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of filler or a combination of different types of fillers can be used.

  The term “filler” is understood to mean colorless or white inorganic or synthetic particles that are insoluble in the liquid component that may be present in the composition according to the invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. Should be.

  The filler may be inorganic or organic, and may be spherical or oval, or any crystalline form (for example, plate, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, silylated silica, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxy Apatite, polyamide [Nylon (registered trademark)], powder formed of poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powder formed of polyurethane, powder formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymer [Teflon (registered trademark)] , Lauryl lysine, starch, polymer hollow microspheres such as poly (vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile hollow microspheres such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymer hollow microspheres, silicone resin microbeads [ For example, GE Toshiba Silicon Tospearls (registered trademark)], particles formed from polyorganosiloxane elastomer, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or 8 to 22 Metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having carbon atoms, for example 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, but not limited to, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate It is done.

  The composition according to the present invention comprises talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate And an inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of hydroxyapatite.

  A filler suitable for the present invention may be, for example, a filler having an average particle size of less than 100 μm, in particular between 1 and 50 μm, for example between 4 and 20 μm.

  The amount of filler in the composition of the present invention is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 5 to 12%, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of mass%.

Surface Treatment The pigment in the composition according to the present invention is preferably surface-treated, preferably with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.

  Hydrophobic treatment agents include, inter alia, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and isopropyl titanate. It can be selected from isostearyl, inorganic wax, and mixtures thereof.

  N-acylamino acids may contain acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. The salt of these compounds may be an aluminum salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, zirconium salt, zinc salt, sodium salt or potassium salt. The amino acid is not particularly limited and may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

Examples of pigments that are surface treated include pigments coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as
Iron oxide-stearoyl glutamate disodium-aluminum hydroxide (NAI-C33-9001),
Iron oxide-stearoyl glutamate disodium-aluminum hydroxide (NAI-C33-8001),
Iron oxide-stearoyl glutamate disodium-aluminum hydroxide (NAI-C33-7001) and titanium dioxide-stearoyl glutamate disodium-aluminum hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891)
Is mentioned.

(Physiologically acceptable medium)
In addition to the aforementioned components, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

  The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to mean a medium that is particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.

  The physiologically acceptable medium is generally also adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is applied and the form in which the composition is packaged.

  The composition according to the invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.

  The dispersion may be prepared as an aqueous phase or an oil phase.

  The emulsion may have an oily and / or aqueous continuous phase. Such emulsions may be, for example, reversed phase (W / O) emulsions or normal phase (O / W) emulsions, or multiphase emulsions (W / O / W or O / W / O).

  In the case of emulsions, reversed phase (W / O) emulsions are preferred.

(Water phase)
The composition according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase.

  The aqueous phase contains water. Water suitable for use in the present invention may be floral water, such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and / or spring water.

The aqueous phase is also a water miscible organic solvent (at room temperature: 25 ° C.), for example a monoalcohol containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; inter alia glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol A polyol containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferentially 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; mono, di- or tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, (including 16 carbon atoms from especially 3) mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, glycol ethers, and Or a mixture thereof.

  The aqueous phase may also contain stabilizers such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

  The aqueous phase can also include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof. .

  In particular, the composition according to the invention contains from 1% to 80% by weight, in particular from 5% to 50% by weight, more specifically from 10% to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may contain an aqueous phase in an amount.

  According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.

  An anhydrous composition is less than 5% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight, more specifically 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Less water may be included.

  More specifically, the anhydrous composition may not contain water.

(Fat phase)
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil described below.

  The term “oil” means any fat that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

  The composition according to the invention has a liquid fatty phase of 1 to 90% by weight, preferably 5 to 80% by weight, in particular 10 to 70% by weight, more specifically 20 to 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition. You may contain by content of the range of the mass%.

  Suitable fatty phases for the preparation of the composition according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

  The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

  They may be of animal, plant, inorganic or synthetic origin.

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oily mixture to be tested is placed in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ , temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25 ° C. and humidity-controlled to 50% relative humidity. Place in a 7 cm diameter crystal dish placed on a balance. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely without agitation, while ventilating with a blower (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically on the crystal dish containing the oil or mixture. The fan blades are directed 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystal dish and toward the crystal dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallization dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit area (cm ² ) and unit time (minutes).

The term “volatile oil” means any non-aqueous medium that can contact the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and evaporate in less than an hour. Volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil that is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has an evaporation rate between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm ² / min (including upper and lower limits).

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si—O group.

  The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

  The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

(Volatile oil)
Volatile oils are hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially C _{8 to} C ₁₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane (eg, oil sold under the trade name Isopar® or Permethyl®).

Volatile oils that can be used include volatile silicones such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s) or less, especially 2 Including those containing from 1 to 10 silicon atoms, in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having an alkyl or alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Including. Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention include, among others, dimethicone having a viscosity of 5 cSt and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl. Examples include octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention is 1 to 80%, or even 5 to 70%, or even 10 to 60%, in particular, relative to the total weight of the composition It may contain 15 to 50% by weight volatile oil.

(Non-volatile oil)
The non-volatile oil may be selected from fluoro- and / or silicone oils, especially non-volatile hydrocarbon-based.

In particular, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include
-Animal-derived hydrocarbon oils such as perhydrosqualene,
-Plant-derived hydrocarbon oils such as phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Eldew PS203), fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular, fatty acids C ₄ -C _36, especially a triglyceride formed from what may have a chain length of C ₁₈ -C _36, linear or branched optionally these oils, saturated or unsaturated Saturated, among others, heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglyceride, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kukui oil, passiflora oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, Sweet tonsil oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, Ridge oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, cocoon oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pith seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil , Medfoam oil, Hypericum perforatum oil, Monoi oil, Hazelnut oil, Anzu oil, Walnut oil, Olive oil, Evening primrose oil, Palm oil, Black currant seed oil, Kiwi seed oil, Grape seed oil, Pistachio oil, Winter pumpkin oil, Pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Sterineries Dubois or Dynamite Nobel Sold under the names Miglyol 810 (R), 812 (R) and 818 (R) Or it may be one that is,
-Linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, and squalane,
-Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
-Synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R ₁ represents one linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly branched, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the R ₁ and R ₂ chains is 10 or more. Esters include, inter alia, fatty acid esters of alcohols such as cetostearyl octoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearic isostearate. Hydroxylated esters such as octyl stearate, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, and inter alia isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic acid, decanoic acid or ricinoleic acid or polyalcohols such as dioctanoic acid Propylene glycol, cetyl octoate, tridecyl octoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dihepta Benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters such neopentane Select from isodecyl acid, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid ester such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated ester such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate can do,
-Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example tetra (hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl,
-Esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, for example, Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and Lusplan DD-DA7 (registered) sold by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. and described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004-175338 Trademark),
-Copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymers,
-Aliphatic alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
-C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
A dialkyl carbonate in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, for example dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis,
-High with a molar mass in particular in the range from about 400 to about 10000 g / mol, in particular in the range from about 650 to about 10000 g / mol, in particular in the range from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, more specifically in the range from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. Molar mass of oil. High molar mass oils that can be used in the present invention include, among others,
Lipophilic polymer linear fatty acid ester with total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,
Hydroxylated esters,
Aromatic esters,
C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ Branched fatty acids or fatty alcohol esters,
Silicone oil,
Oils selected from plant-derived oils and mixtures thereof,
-Optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone fluoro oils, for example fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;
-Silicone oil, e.g. non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or at the end of the silicone chain and containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms A polydimethylsiloxane containing groups; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate; and
-A mixture of them is included.

  According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can contain only volatile compounds.

(Additive)
The composition according to the invention can also be used for example in solvents, rubbers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, Selected from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, bactericides, UV blockers, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protective agents, and mixtures thereof, Any additive commonly used in the field under consideration may be included.

  It is within the normal practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the composition according to the invention so that the desired cosmetic properties are not affected by the additive.

[Cosmetics]
The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition in the form of a skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a hot setting foundation product, a body makeup product, a concealer, an eye shadow or a lipstick. It may be in the form of an anhydrous gel, a stick or stick, or a soft paste.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a care composition, in particular a sunscreen composition.

  Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a fluid primer or fluid foundation.

  In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[Makeup method]
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method.

  The cosmetic method according to the invention comprises the step of applying at least one layer of the composition according to the invention described above to the skin, in particular the facial skin.

  In the cosmetic method according to the present invention, the composition may be applied as a makeup product such as a foundation. In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be applied as a makeup product.

  In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic method according to the invention reduces skin defects, in particular the visibility of pores and / or stains, and advantageously can last a long time for the concealment effect of pores and / or stains. Is intended.

  The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

  All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 5 are based on “mass%” as the active ingredient.

(Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3)
The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 were mixed together with the component (O) for forming the oil phase shown in Table 1, and mixed into a paste-like substance [bisdiglyceryl Polyacyl adipate-2, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, or dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl)] is melted or hydrogenated polyisobutene Is heated to 60 to 80 ° C. until it becomes fluidized, and the component (F) containing the pigment (P) and filler is dispersed in the oil phase, and then the aqueous phase component for forming the aqueous phase shown in Table 1 ( Prepared by proceeding to emulsification by adding A).

(Material properties)
Molecular weights and melting points of bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimerlinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimerlinoleic acid dimerlinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) and hydrogenated polyisobutene Is shown in Table 2.

  According to Table 2, of bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimer dilinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, and dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) It is clear that each can be considered a pasty substance. Because they have a melting point. On the other hand, hydrogenated polyisobutene cannot be considered a pasty substance. Because it does not have a melting point.

(In vitro evaluation)
The compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were tested as follows.

  The compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were applied on a transparent film having a thickness of 50 μm on a black and white contrast card, and the contrast ratio (% CR) was compared to the Minolta CM-700d ratio. Measured with a colorimeter. The results are shown in Table 3.

  According to Table 3, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 3-5 and Comparative Example 1 can provide higher opacity.

(In vivo evaluation)
The cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were tested by experts to evaluate the following cosmetic effects: spreadability, fit on skin, uniformity and coverage. The test applies 0.1 g of each composition to half the face of 6 different respondents and observes the difference between the two compositions. The overall performance of each composition was also determined.

  The results are shown in Table 4.

  According to Table 4, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 cannot provide a desired cosmetic effect. This is because the composition according to Comparative Example 1 contains hydrogenated polyisobutene which is not a paste-like substance, and the composition according to Comparative Example 2 contains only 1.0% by mass of paste-like substance bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2. This is because the composition according to the above does not contain any pasty substance.

  According to Table 4, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 can exhibit a certain degree of cosmetic effect. However, according to Table 3, the composition according to Comparative Example 2 cannot provide higher opacity.

  Thus, considering both Table 3 and Table 4, the compositions according to Examples 1-5 containing more than 1.0% by weight of pasty material have higher opacity and spreadability, fit on skin, uniformity and Both desired cosmetic effects such as covering properties can be provided.

(Example 6)
A makeup base having the following composition according to Example 6 shown in Table 5 was mixed together with the component (O) for forming the oil phase shown in Table 5, and mixed into a paste-like substance (bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate). It was heated to 60-80 ° C. until -2) melted, and the pigment (P) and filler (F) were dispersed in the oil phase.

  The amounts of silicone elastomer and pigment in the makeup base are 10% by mass and 0.5% by mass, respectively, based on the total mass of the makeup base. The makeup base had higher coverage and better fit when applied on the skin due to the presence of the pasty material.

Claims (16)

In a physiologically acceptable medium,
(a) at least one pasty substance having a molecular weight of 1000 or more and a melting point of less than 50 ° C., and
(b) comprises at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer,
(a) the amount of the pasty substance is more than 1.0% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition;
Composition.   The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pasty substance is a lipophilic aliphatic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and having a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 33 ° C. .   3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the liquid fraction of the (a) pasty substance accounts for 20 to 97% by mass of the (a) pasty substance as measured at 33 ° C.   4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (a) the pasty substance is selected from a synthetic compound and a plant-derived compound. (a) the pasty material is lanolin and its derivatives, polymer or non-polymer silicone compound, polymer or non-polymer fluorinated compound, vinyl polymer such as olefin homopolymer, olefin copolymer, hydrogenated diene homopolymer and copolymer, preferably homo- vinyl esters and copolymers oligomer having a linear or branched homopolymer or copolymer oligomer, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group of the alkyl (meth) acrylate having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, C ₈ -C vinyl ether homopolymer and copolymer oligomers having ₃₀ alkyl group, one or more C ₂ -C liposoluble polyethers resulting from poly etherification between ₁₀₀ diol, esters and polyesters, and are selected from the group consisting of a mixture thereof As described in any one of claims 1 to 4. Of the composition.   Bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, isostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimerlinoleic acid hydrogenated castor oil, dimerlinoleic acid dimerlinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), or mixtures thereof, preferably 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising bisdiglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 as a pasty substance (a).   (a) the pasty substance is present in the composition in an amount ranging from more than 1.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.   8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or a powder.   (b) the silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.   The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mass ratio of (a) pasty substance to (b) silicone elastomer is 0.5 to 10, preferably 1.0 to 7.5, more preferably 1.5 to 5.0. object.   At least one pigment, preferably at least one inorganic pigment, more preferably titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one pigment selected from the group consisting of chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and metal powder.   12. A composition according to claim 11, wherein the pigment is surface treated.   The pigment is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 13. The composition according to 12.   At least one filler, preferably at least one inorganic filler, more preferably talc, mica, silica, silylated silica, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising at least one inorganic filler selected from the group consisting of barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite. object.   15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, which is a makeup product such as a foundation.   A cosmetic method comprising the step of applying at least one layer of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 onto the skin, in particular the facial skin.