WO2017128099A1 - Anhydrous composition with non-sticky feeling - Google Patents
Anhydrous composition with non-sticky feeling Download PDFInfo
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- WO2017128099A1 WO2017128099A1 PCT/CN2016/072303 CN2016072303W WO2017128099A1 WO 2017128099 A1 WO2017128099 A1 WO 2017128099A1 CN 2016072303 W CN2016072303 W CN 2016072303W WO 2017128099 A1 WO2017128099 A1 WO 2017128099A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
Definitions
- the present invention relates, in general, to an anhydrous composition for application onto a targeted substrate. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition possessing an improved non-sticky feeling when applying on the targeted substrate, in particular keratin materials.
- compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are produced to satisfy the need of conditioning and/or making up of the skin and the lips.
- consumers are looking for a product for caring for and making up the lips, with good conditioning of the lips, such as moisturizing, shining; good makeup effect, such as homogeneous and long-lasting color effect on the lips, and easy usage, such as easy spreading, good pay-off on the lips.
- oils with low viscosity may solve the issue, but lip glosses with low viscosity oils are too liquid, and consequently it impacts the quality of usage of the product. While applying on the lips, the layer of the composition spread was too thick, resulting in the leaking or bleeding of the composition outside the lip area.
- the product may not be stable due to the low viscosity. Therefore, there is a need to formulate a composition with an improved non-sticky feeling when application on keratin materials, in particular the lips.
- the sufficient viscosity as disclosed above enables an improved quality of usage, such as pay-off, and spreading.
- composition comprising at least one specific ester oil, at least one pasty compound, at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, and at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.
- anhydrous composition comprising:
- anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 2%and preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.
- the “keratin material” is the skin and the lips.
- skin we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.
- the viscosity of a composition of the invention may be measured via any process known to those skilled in the art, and especially according to the following conventional process.
- the measurement can be carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm.
- Those skilled in the art may select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles M1, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.
- the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company Prorheo.
- the viscosity of the composition of the present invention ranges from 35 UD to 80 UD (DeviationUnits) , using the above mentioned method.
- stable over time means that the composition after two months of storage at 25 to 45°C, shows no change in appearance, colour, odour, or viscosity.
- composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from esters containing at least 18 carbon atoms.
- oil it refers to the oils are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa or 760 mmHg) .
- the ester oil of the present invention can be monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, which comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
- ester oil which is useful to the present invention may for example be chosen from:
- R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms
- R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms,
- Mentions may be made to such monoesters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin oil) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, such as 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-o
- R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms
- R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms
- R 1 and R 2 being such that the sum of the carbon atoms of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is greater than or equal to 18.
- the monoester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
- -diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, particularly comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms, more particularly between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
- Use may be made especially of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate (such as the product available under the tradename Schercemol TM DISM ester sold by the company Lubrizol) , or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Akzo) ;
- diisostearyl malate such as the product available under the tradename Schercemol TM DISM ester sold by the company Lubrizol
- glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononan
- Mentions may be made to, for instance polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, or glyceryl stearate;
- -triesters containing at least 18 carbon atoms preferably containing at least 35 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total.
- Mentions may be made of the triesters of this kind, such as triesters of a tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
- triesters of a tricarboxylic acid such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate
- glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate
- Such tetraesters are, for example, pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate;
- pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, gly
- esters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid which comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of C 8 to C 34 , especially of C 12 to C 22 , in particular of C 16 to C 20 and more particularly of C 18 , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan and
- the ester oil of the present invention is selected from diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, particularly comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms, more particularly between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
- diisostearyl malate is used in the present invention.
- the ester oil (s) present (s) in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5%to 45%by weight, preferably from 5%to 40%by weight, more preferably from 10%to 35%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention comprises at least one pasty compound.
- pasty compounds within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change in state which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23°C.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds, measured at 23°C can represent from 9 to 97%by weight of the pasty compounds. At 23°C, this liquid fraction preferably represents between 15 and 85%by weight, more preferably between 40 and 85%by weight.
- the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.
- the melting point of a pasty compounds can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by TA Instruments.
- the measurement protocol is as follows:
- a 5 mg sample of pasty compounds placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
- the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible comprising the sample of pasty compounds is measured as a function of the temperature.
- the melting point of the pasty compounds is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
- the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compounds at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
- the pasty fatty substance is “in the solid state” when the whole of its mass is in the solid crystalline form.
- the pasty compounds is “in the liquid state” when the whole of its mass is in the liquid form.
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to Standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.
- DSC differential scanning calorimeter
- the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is the amount of energy necessary to change the pasty compounds from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
- the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, composed of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30 to 100%by weight of the pasty compounds, preferably from 50 to 100%by weight of the pasty compounds, more preferably from 60 to 100%by weight of the pasty compounds.
- the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compounds is less than or equal to 32°C.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds.
- the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
- the pasty compound is advantageously chosen from the following compounds, alone or in combination:
- -polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, the ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) , polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46%PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46%PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl
- ⁇ oligomers homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as vinyl ester homopolymers containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo;
- liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C 6 -C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5: 95 to 70: 30.
- copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
- a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
- esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Cremer Oleo,
- ⁇ vinyl ester homopolymers containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
- ⁇ fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof for instance triglycerides of fatty acids, which are especially C 10 -C 18 , and partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol,
- the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
- the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
- the aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is chosen from:
- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G) , Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) , and mixtures thereof,
- hydrogenated soybean oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rape seed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rape seed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) ,
- ⁇ shea butter in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference by the company Aarhuskarlshamn,
- the pasty compound is preferably a polymer, especially a hydrocarbon-based polymer.
- petroleum jelly bis-behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil, mango butter, shea butter, or a mixture thereof, will preferably be chosen.
- petroleum jelly in particular the product with the INCI name petrolatum, such as those sold under the name Ultima White PET USP by the company Calumet Specialty.
- the pasty compound (s) is (are) present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5%to 40%by weight, preferably 10%to 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises at least one ester of dextrin, preferably an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably a C 12 to C 24 fatty acid.
- fatty acids examples include lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoelaidic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, or lignoceric acid.
- the fatty acid is saturated.
- the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and a saturated C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
- dextrin esters of dextrin myristate for example such as those commercialized under the references Rheopearl by the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING, dextrin palmitate, such as those commercialized under the reference Rheopearl by the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING, or a mixture thereof.
- dextrin myristate is used.
- a composition according to the invention comprises a content of dextrin ester ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight and preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.
- the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer of the present invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
- organopolysiloxane elastomer means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
- This organopolysiloxane is preferably crosslinked.
- this elastomer is non-cyclic.
- the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
- Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C) .
- Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
- Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
- Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B) .
- the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2- phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
- alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
- substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2- phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl
- aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl
- substituted aryl groups such as
- Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
- Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4 ) ; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
- the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.
- Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
- the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
- alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
- substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl
- aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
- substituted aryl groups such as
- the organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinyls
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
- the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.
- compound (A) it is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
- Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
- the catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B) .
- the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers may be in form of spherical or non-spherical particles.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomer is selected from dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
- Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include, for example, those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 by the company Dow Corning.
- An advantageous fatty phase of this invention may comprise at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least one oil.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomers are preferably conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane mixed with at least one oil.
- the organopolysiloxane elastomers may be in form of spherical or non-spherical particles.
- elastomers may be used as a mixture with cyclic silicone oil.
- An example that may be mentioned is the mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane, for instance Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from the company Grant Industries, or EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend by the company Dow Corning.
- the oil to be mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel is a linear silicone oil (dimethylsiloxane) with molecular weight ranging from 1 to 350cst at 25°C, in particular 2 to 100cst and preferably 2 to 10cst.
- the silicone oil viscosity might be measured according to ASTM D-445 norm.
- organopolysiloxane elastomer mixed with linear silicone oil used in the invention, mention may be made of the following references:
- DIMETHICONE such as the commercial references KSG-6 and KSG-16 sold by Shin Etsu;
- DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as the commercial reference DC9041 sold by Dow Corning;
- DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend from the company Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof;
- the fatty phase comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in a form of a gel wherein the dimethicone crosspolymer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100cst at 25°C, in particular 1 to 10cst at 25°C, in particular the one having INCI Name DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a solids content ranging from 0.1 %to 5 %by weight, preferably from 0.2 %to 3 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:
- the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil, which is different from the oil a) as disclosed above.
- the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1%to 60%by weight, preferably from 5%to 50%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the oil (s) may be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, or a mixture thereof.
- non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
- evaporation rate 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%.
- the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
- the mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals.
- the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes) .
- volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
- the oils may be silicone oil, fluoro oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, or a mixture thereof.
- silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
- fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
- the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
- the oil may be chosen from polar oils, apolar oils, or mixtures thereof.
- polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
- apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
- ⁇ a ( ⁇ p 2 + ⁇ h 2 ) 1/2 .
- the volatile oils that can be used in the present invention are, for example, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names or volatile silicone oils, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffin
- volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
- composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
- the non-volatile oil is a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, polar and/or apolar.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
- the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
- the C 10 -C 26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.
- fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for example alcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc. ) or animal material (tallow, etc. ) .
- alcohols of natural origin for instance coconut (C 12 to C 16 ) or tallow (C 16 to C 18 ) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.
- Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- fatty alcohols that may preferably be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol, such as the product sold under the tradename Eutanol by the company BASF.
- hydroxylated diesters of a C 2 -C 8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
- hydroxylated triesters of a C 2 -C 8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C 2 -C 8 alcohol such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate,
- glycol diesters of monoacids such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate
- glycol triesters of monoacids such as triacetin
- fatty acid triglycerides which are liquid at room temperature
- saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as the product sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, or Triglycerides C8C10 70/30 DUB MCT7030 from Stearinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C 18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil
- - C 12 -C 26 fatty acids preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, which are preferably unsaturated, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
- dialkyl carbonates the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol by Cognis;
- the hydrocarbon-based polar oil according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of C 10 -C 26 alcohols, hydrocarbon-based plant oils, or a mixture thereof.
- the hydrocarbon-based polar oil of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of C 12 -C 22 alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides, especially of fatty acids containing at least 7 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.
- the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is selected from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C 18-36 acid triglycerides, unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, or a mixture thereof.
- lauryl alcohol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyl
- the composition of the present invention comprises, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.
- non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar
- the compound is then free of oxygen, nitrogen atom (s) .
- non-volatile apolar oil is nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil.
- non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
- the nonvolatile oil of the present invention is polybutene.
- the composition of the invention further comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from the group consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils, or a mixture thereof.
- the non-volatile oil that is further comprised in the composition may be chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, hydrocarbon-based plant oils, squalane, polybutenes, or a mixture thereof.
- composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from, lipophilic solvents.
- a composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from colouring agents, gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.
- any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from colouring agents, gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures
- composition of the present invention when used for making up keratin materials, in particular the lips, colouring agents are used in the composition of the invention.
- the colouring agents may be chosen from liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic colorants, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
- colorant or “colouring agent” means a compound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a composition.
- composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, nacres, or a mixture thereof.
- pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
- the pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .
- the pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with an optical effect, for instance goniochromatic pigments.
- the mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red) , titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
- Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.
- the lakes which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
- -organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes are examples of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.
- organic pigments that may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;
- organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one
- the organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
- organic lakes mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No.
- liposoluble dyes such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
- the pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
- the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
- silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes
- fatty acids such as stearic acid
- metal soaps such as aluminiu
- the N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
- the salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
- the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
- alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above in particular denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
- nacre means coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
- nacres include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
- the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
- the composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.
- the colouring agent is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.
- composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of makeup product such as lip gloss, lip oil, and so on.
- composition of the present invention is liquid.
- composition of the present invention is anhydrous, which is defined above.
- the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin material.
- the present invention relates to a method for caring for and/or making up the skin, especially the lips, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the skin and in particular the lips.
- the invention relates to the use of a composition of the present invention in caring for and/or making up a keratin material, especially the skin, and more particularly the lips.
- Comparative formula 1’ corresponds to invention formula 1, contains a silicone dimethicone crosspolymer which is known for reducing sticky feeling.
- Comparative formula 2’ corresponds to invention formula 2, which does not contain pasty compound as claimed in the present invention.
- phase A heating phase A to 85°C, and adding phase B into phase A, mixing until homogeneous;
- the non-stickiness was evaluated by both instrumental and panelists.
- Peak_Load (N) is the maximum traction force between the two pieces of bio skins under a predetermined rate as points per second throughout the process.
- the pulling force was measured in newton (N) .
- Higher value of Peak_Load (N) represents more sticky feeling of the formula.
- the viscosities of the invention and comparative formulas were evaluated using a Rheomat 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm at 25°C.
- the spindle used in the test was spindle M3.
- the invention formulas were then stored under temperatures between 25 to 45°C for 2 months, in order to evaluate the stability.
- the invention formula 2 shows a better non-sticky feeling on the lips according to the panelists, and meanwhile maintains sufficient viscosity.
- the comparative formula 2’ s hows a poor quality of usage, due to the low viscosity.
- the invention formulas 1 and 2 possess an improved non-stickiness, sufficient viscosities, as well as a good quality of usages, comparing to the comparative 1’ a nd 2’ .
Abstract
Description
Claims (15)
- An anhydrous composition comprising:a).at least one oil selected from ester containing at least 18 carbon atoms;b).at least one pasty compound;c).at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid; andd).at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.
- The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, hydroxylated monoesters, hydroxylated diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, esters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid (s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, all of which comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; preferably the oil is selected from diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms; more preferably the oil is selected from diesters comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms, even more preferably diesters comprising between 18 and 50 carbon atoms.
- The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is diisostearyl malate.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil a) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the pasty compound is selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or nonpolymeric fluoro compounds, vinyl polymers, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols, esters, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, bis-behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, mango butter, shea butter, or a mixture thereof; more preferably selected from petroleum jelly.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the pasty compound is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the ester of dextrin is selected from esters of dextrin and a C12 to C24 fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from esters of dextrin and a saturated C14-C18 fatty acid, or a mixture thereof; more preferably selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, or a mixture thereof.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the ester of dextrin is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst; preferably obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is selected from dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof; preferably conveyed in at least one oil; more preferably the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is selected from dimethicone crosspolymer conveyed in linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 10 cst at 25℃.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.2 % to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12 further comprises at least one oil, which is different from the oil a) , selected from the group consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar or apolar, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, hydrocarbon-based plant oils, squalane, polybutenes, or a mixture thereof; more preferably selected from the group consisting of octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene, polybutene, or a mixture thereof.
- The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13 further comprises at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, nacres, or a mixture thereof; preferably chosen from pigments.
- An anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:a).from 10% to 35% by weight of at least one oil selected from diesters comprising between 18 and 50 carbon atoms;b).from 10% to 30% by weight of at least one pasty compound;c).from 1% to 5% by weight of at least one ester of dextrin and a C12 to C24 fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; andd).from 0.2% to 3% by weight of at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer selected from dimethicone crosspolymer mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100cst at 25℃, in particular 1 to 10cst at 25℃.
Priority Applications (4)
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KR1020187020360A KR20180105645A (en) | 2016-01-27 | 2016-01-27 | Anhydrous composition without stickiness |
PCT/CN2016/072303 WO2017128099A1 (en) | 2016-01-27 | 2016-01-27 | Anhydrous composition with non-sticky feeling |
JP2018537842A JP2019503382A (en) | 2016-01-27 | 2016-01-27 | Non-tacky anhydrous composition |
CN201680080174.0A CN109310619A (en) | 2016-01-27 | 2016-01-27 | Anhydrous composition with not viscous sense |
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PCT/CN2016/072303 WO2017128099A1 (en) | 2016-01-27 | 2016-01-27 | Anhydrous composition with non-sticky feeling |
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- 2016-01-27 CN CN201680080174.0A patent/CN109310619A/en active Pending
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WO2013190704A1 (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2013-12-27 | L'oreal | Liquid cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil, a non-volatile dimethicone oil and a dextrin ester |
CN104379217A (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2015-02-25 | 莱雅公司 | Liquid cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than 60 DEG C |
CN104394832A (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2015-03-04 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a hydrocarbon-based resin |
Also Published As
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KR20180105645A (en) | 2018-09-28 |
CN109310619A (en) | 2019-02-05 |
JP2019503382A (en) | 2019-02-07 |
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