JP2015229813A - Stretchable warp knitted fabric and method for knitting the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for knitting a stretchable warp knitted fabric by which a difference in fastening forces at a boundary where fastening forces switch can be enlarged to provide a high body shape-trimming function and a support function and by which reinforcement parts scattered in a complicated shape can be formed to provide a cloth having a luster and high-grade feeling.SOLUTION: There is provided a method for knitting a stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a stretchable warp knitted fabric is knitted by a Jacquard warp knitting machine comprising a ground reed for knitting a ground texture and a plurality of Jacquard reeds for knitting a derivative texture. Non-elastic yarns are inserted through a part of Jacquard reeds of the plurality of Jacquard reeds and elastic yarns are inserted through the rest of the Jacquard reeds except the part of the Jacquard reeds. A derivative texture to be woven in combination is selected from a plurality of derivative textures with different fastening forces which can be woven by the part of Jacquard reeds through which the non-elastic yarns are inserted and the rest of the Jacquard reeds through which elastic yarns are inserted, and the selected derivative texture and a ground texture are simultaneously woven by the Jacquard warp knitting machine.

Description

  The present invention provides a stretch warp knitted fabric that has a region with a high tightening force and a region with a low tightening force, and can be advantageously implemented as a fabric such as clothing used for body shape correction such as posture correction and muscle support. The present invention relates to a knitting method of a stretch warp knitted fabric for knitting by jacquard knitting, and a stretch warp knitted fabric knitted by this knitting method.

  The first prior art is described in Patent Document 1, for example. In this prior art, a non-elastic yarn is jacquard knitted, and the knitted structure in which the tightening force is partially changed due to the change in the structure is elastic to a ground different from the ground used for this knitted structure. A technique has been proposed in which a thread is inserted to simultaneously form structures with different tightening strengths.

  The second prior art is described in Patent Document 2, for example. In this prior art, a technique has been proposed in which a coated elastic yarn having an elastic force is partially formed with regions having different tightening forces due to a change in structure by jacquard knitting, and a region having a high tightening force is formed. .

  The third prior art is described in Patent Document 3, for example. In this prior art, a reinforced region having a higher tightening force than other regions is formed in a fabric structure composed of inelastic yarns and stretch yarns by organizing other reinforced stretch yarns in a predetermined reinforced region. In accordance with the shape of the reinforced region, a technique for forming the reinforced region by moving the reinforced elastic yarn largely with a special kite having a wide moving range has been proposed.

Japanese Patent No. 3023354 Japanese Patent No. 4695685 Japanese Patent No. 4971473

  In the prior art described in Patent Document 1, the stretch warp knitted fabric knitted by this knitting method is excellent in that it can achieve a high pattern effect by jacquard knitting with high freedom. The difference between the region where the tightening force is high and the region where the tightening force is low is not so large because of the change in the structure.Therefore, there is no clear difference in the tightening force at the boundary where the tightening force changes. There is a problem that high body shape correction function and support function cannot be obtained.

  In the prior art described in Patent Document 2 described above, although the average tightening force of the entire fabric is increased, a large difference in tightening force is not obtained between a region where the tightening force is high and a region where the tightening force is low. In addition, since the coated elastic yarn is used, there is a problem that the knitted fabric is not glossy and is not high-quality.

  The conventional technique described in Patent Document 3 is superior in that it can reinforce the tightening force in a partial region because it uses a reinforced elastic yarn that is different from the ground structure for producing the fabric. This method cannot be applied to complex shapes or when reinforced regions are scattered in a narrow area. There is a problem that the application range is limited.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a stretch warp knitted fabric capable of increasing the difference in tightening force at the boundary where the tightening force is switched to obtain a fabric having a high body shape correcting function and a support function, and having a gloss and a high-class feeling. And a stretch warp knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method.

The present invention provides a jacquard warp knitting machine including a ground for knitting a ground structure and a plurality of jacquard knitting machines for knitting a change structure, and knitting by inserting or knitting elastic yarn into a knitted structure made of inelastic yarn. It is a knitting method of a stretch warp knitted fabric that knits a stretch warp knitted fabric in which stretchability is given to the entire ground
A thread insertion step of inserting an inelastic thread into a part of the jacquard tacks among the plurality of jacquard tacks, and inserting an elastic thread into the remaining jacquard tacks excluding the part of the jacquard tacks;
Changes to be knitted in combination from a plurality of changeable structures having different tightening forces that can be knitted by the part of the jacquard reeds through which the non-elastic yarn is inserted and the remaining jacquard reeds through which the elastic yarn is inserted A selection process for selecting an organization;
A knitting method of a stretch warp knitted fabric, comprising: a knitting step of simultaneously knitting the change organization selected in the selection step and the ground organization by the jacquard warp knitting machine.

  According to the present invention, the plurality of change tissues include a combination of an insertion tissue and a looping tissue.

  In the invention, it is preferable that the plurality of changed tissues include a combination of a one-needle overlap tissue and a two-needle overlap tissue.

  In the invention, it is preferable that the plurality of change tissues include a combination of an insertion tissue, a one-needle overlap tissue, and a two-needle overlap tissue.

Further, the present invention is characterized in that the structure of the elastic yarn is a plurality of change structures, and the ground structure knitted by the inelastic yarn is a regular tricot structure or net structure.
Further, the present invention is an elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method of the elastic warp knitted fabric.

  According to the present invention, a combination can be selected from a plurality of changed tissues having different tightening forces that can be knitted by a part of the jacquard ridges through which the inelastic yarn is inserted and the remaining jacquard ridges through which the elastic yarn is inserted. Since it is knitted together with the ground structure, it is possible to freely form the reinforced part shape scattered in a complicated shape, and to increase the difference in the tightening force at the boundary where the tightening force is switched. It is possible to obtain a fabric having a support function and having a gloss and a high-class feeling.

It is a change figure for demonstrating the knitting structure which used the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn for the jacquard of the expansion-contraction warp knitted fabric knitted by one Embodiment of this invention. It is a change figure for demonstrating the knitting structure which used the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn for the jacquard of the expansion-contraction warp knitted fabric knitted by one Embodiment of this invention. It is a change figure for demonstrating the knitting structure which used the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn for the jacquard of the expansion-contraction warp knitted fabric knitted by one Embodiment of this invention. It is a change figure for demonstrating the knitting structure which used the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn for the jacquard of the expansion-contraction warp knitted fabric knitted by one Embodiment of this invention. It is an organization chart which shows four types of jacquard change organization (a), (b), (c), (d) including the insertion structure | tissue with little consumption of a thread | yarn, and the looping structure | tissue with much consumption of a thread | yarn. It is a structure | tissue chart which shows three types of jacquard change structure | tissues (a), (b), (c) including the 1-needle overlapping structure with little thread consumption, and the 2-needle overlapping structure with much thread consumption. It is a figure which shows a part of cloth for shorts provided with a body-type support function. It is a figure which shows the correspondence of fastening force and a change organization.

  FIGS. 1-4 is a change figure for demonstrating the knitting structure | structure which used the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn for the jacquard of the elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by one Embodiment of this invention. In the present invention, a warp knitting machine used for knitting an elastic warp knitted fabric includes a ground rod, a jacquard rod through which an inelastic yarn is inserted, and a jacquard rod through which an elastic yarn is inserted. Jacquard control is performed by electrically operating a yarn guide bar equipped with a piezo element by a computer of a jacquard control device, and a change organization by a plurality of jacquard reeds is knitted together with a ground organization by a territory. Thus, a jacquard warp knitting machine capable of producing a fabric forming a stretchable warp knitted fabric having stretchability is used.

The knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric of this embodiment will be described.
1, 2, and 3, mainly using a jacquard changing structure by one jacquard ridge JB1 in which an inelastic yarn is inserted into a base fabric knitted by the ground ridge GB3 and the ground ridge GB4, Knitting of stretch warp knitted fabric that gives design effects such as gloss on the surface of the fabric, and can give the fabric strength of tightening force by the jacquard change structure by the other jacquard 筬 JB2 through which the elastic yarn is inserted Indicates an organization.

  FIG. 4 shows a jacquard kite JB1-1, JB1-2; JB2-1, JB2-2, each of which is composed of one row of yarn guide bars each having a guide pitch of 1 in and 1 out. A jacquard knitting structure by half set is formed with different movements in which the structure of the row is symmetric as a basic structure, and the fabric GB3 and GB4 serve to give the entire fabric a constant longitudinal stretchability. , JB1-2 non-elastic yarn is used to form the main fabric including the handle and net, and JB2-1 and JB2-2 elastic yarns are used to select the jacquard change structure to give the strength of the fabric tightening force. .

  1 to 4, each yarn is supplied in the direction of arrow S to form a stretch warp knitted fabric, and therefore the knitted fabric is discharged in the same direction from the jacquard warp knitting machine (hereinafter the same). ).

  FIG. 5 is an organization chart showing four types of jacquard changing tissues (a), (b), (c), and (d) including an insertion structure with low yarn consumption and a looping tissue with high yarn consumption. . The organization indicated by a broken line at the bottom of each jacquard changed organization (a) to (d) indicates the jacquard basic organization before the change. Each jacquard basic structure changes, and is arranged in the order of 1, 2, 3,..., From a structure with low yarn consumption to a structure with a large amount of yarn. (A) 1, (b) 1, (c) 1, (d) 1 is a structure with the least amount of yarn consumption, and the area where these yarns are structured becomes a soft fabric area with the lowest tightening force, and the uppermost (a) 6, (b) 8 , (C) 7, (d) 8 is a structure having the largest amount of yarn consumption, and is a fabric area having the highest tightening force and power.

  FIG. 6 is a structure diagram showing three types of jacquard changing structures (a), (b), and (c) including a one-needle overlapping structure with low yarn consumption and a two-needle overlapping structure with high yarn consumption. It is. The broken line at the bottom of each organization shows the jacquard basic organization before the change. Each jacquard structure is arranged in the order of 1, 2, 3,..., From a structure that consumes less yarn to a structure that consumes more, and the lowest (a) 1, (b) 1, (c) 1 is the yarn. It is the organization with the least amount of consumption, and the region where these are organized becomes the soft fabric region with the lowest tightening force, and the regions (a) 6, (b) 7, and (c) 5 in the uppermost stage are the yarns It is the organization with the highest consumption, and it is a powerful fabric area with the highest tightening force.

  FIG. 7 is a diagram showing a part of a fabric for shorts having a body support function, and FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a correspondence relationship between a tightening force and a changed tissue. FIG. 8 shows an example in which the structure shown in FIG. 6C is used as the structure that gives a change in tightening force. In FIG. 8, the structure for one repeat is shown as a shape close to an actual knitted fabric and a loop so that the amount of yarn required for each changed structure can be clearly understood. As can be seen from the figure, as the process proceeds from (c) 1 to (c) 5, the structure requires a larger amount of yarn.

  In the jacquard warp knitting machine of the present invention, since the yarn is fed from the beam, every structure has the same amount of yarn. As a result, it is absorbed by the stretchability of the elastic yarn, but (c) 1 is knitted with the yarn loosened, and (c) 5 is knitted with the yarn most tightly tensioned. As shown in FIG. 8, the difference in tightening force appears as weak to strong.

  For example, the (c) 5 tissue region is a line that serves to support the hip, and the (c) 1 and (c) 2 tissues serve to gently wrap the uneven hip and waist. In the portion where (c) 5 structure and (c) 1 and (c) 2 structures are adjacent to each other, an extreme difference in tightening force is represented as shown in FIG. 7, which is a sharp power switching fabric. I understand that.

  The jacquard raschel knitting machine that produces elastic knitted fabric is designed to supply yarn from the beam to the jacquard rod. A plurality of yarns, usually about 600, are wound on the beam with the same length and the same yarn, and 6 pieces of them are inserted into the shaft and connected to cover the entire knitting machine. It is configured as follows. The shaft rotates to feed the yarn from all six beams to all jacquard guide bars. All the yarns to be fed are supplied with the same length and the same amount of yarn.

  Examples of the inelastic yarn include synthetic fiber yarn such as nylon yarn and polyester yarn, regenerated fiber yarn such as rayon yarn, acetate yarn and cupra yarn, and natural fiber yarn such as cotton yarn, silk yarn, hemp yarn and wool yarn. Examples of the elastic yarn include a polyurethane elastic fiber bare yarn (bare yarn) and a covered elastic yarn obtained by coating the polyurethane elastic fiber with another fiber.

  However, the Jacquard kite has an excellent function of individually displacing each guide bar, and each yarn constitutes a changed structure by different movements, so the consumption of each yarn is not constant. As described above, in the jacquard reed with the beam feed as the beam specification, all are supplied with the same yarn amount. Therefore, in the jacquard structure in which the yarn consumption is different, the yarn tension varies, that is, the yarn that is strongly tensioned. Loose threads will appear.

  Therefore, in a structure where the amount of yarn consumed is high, the yarn is strongly tensioned and a high tightening force is generated on the fabric. In addition, in a structure where the amount of yarn consumed is small, loosening the yarn results in a soft fabric with a relatively low tightening force.

  As an advantage of using elastic yarn for jacquard, non-elastic yarn is often used for fabric produced by jacquard knitting, and each non-elastic yarn moves differently, A situation occurs in which the tension of the yarn is not uniform. Therefore, it is required to produce the fabric within a range where the variation in tension is allowed, and within a range where yarn breakage or malfunction knitting does not occur.

  In particular, in the case of inelastic yarns, since the yarn has no absorbency and requires severe tension adjustment, the variation structure used also minimizes the variation in tension. The fabric must be knitted by selecting a small number of tissues.

  Inelastic yarn jacquard knitting, which has selected a safe structure to avoid the above problems, can not give a large tension difference to the yarn, so the power of the fabric in the region where the tightening force is high and the region where the tightening force is low In terms of difference, a sufficient difference in tightening force cannot be obtained.

  In the knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric of this embodiment, a plurality of jacquard reeds through which inelastic yarns are inserted and the remaining jacquard reeds through which elastic yarns are inserted can be knitted with a plurality of different tightening forces. Since the combination is selected from the change structure and knitted together with the ground structure, when elastic yarn is used for the jacquard yarn, it will not bend even if it is loose, it will stretch even if it is stretched, and the yarn will not break, and high power This makes it easy to adjust the tension. Accordingly, it is possible to have a structure in which structures with greatly different yarn consumption are mixed, and a wide power region can be obtained in the range of power strength in the power switching fabric.

  Comparing the power difference at the time of warp stretching between the low tightening force region and the high tightening force region, the conventional jacquard knitted fabric has a limit of about 1.2 to 1.5 times. In the fabric realized by the stretch warp knitted fabric of the embodiment, it is possible to obtain a power difference exceeding 2 times.

  In jacquard cocoons made of inelastic yarn, the main part that becomes the fabric surface is a structure such as a handle or net, and a structure that increases the tightening force in areas where high support force is required to maintain the body shape and exercise posture. Organization. In addition, in a jacquard kite made of elastic yarn, the elasticity of the fabric and the level of tightening force required for the pattern portion and net portion expressed by the non-elastic yarn or each portion requiring high support force are optimal. By selecting and arranging the jacquard changing tissue, it is possible to give a strong and weak stretch function.

  In order to clarify the difference in power between areas with high tightening force and areas with low tightening force, the elastic jacquard change structure selected for each area is divided between the structure with high thread consumption and the structure with low thread consumption. . For example, a structure such as a handle or net that becomes a region with low tightening force is an insertion structure with low thread consumption, and a structure with high tightening force that requires high support force is a looping structure with high thread consumption. Select. In addition, the structure such as the handle or net that is the area where the tightening force is low is a one-needle overlapping structure that consumes less thread, and the structure in the area where the tightening force that requires high support force is high Select many 2-needle overlapping tissues.

  The above-mentioned jacquard changing structure is realized as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, but the jacquard knitting machine for the inner, for example, the jacquard knitting machine manufactured by KARL MAYER, RSJ4 / 1 knitting machine, etc. The card function, that is, the function that changes the organization at the timing of underlapping once per course cannot be implemented. For this reason, in this embodiment, as a function of changing the jacquard structure twice per course to the knitting machine, in addition to the under wrapping, the function of changing at the timing of the overlapping is also given to the knitting machine. Is changed to a looping tissue, the looping tissue is changed to an insertion tissue, and the one-needle overlap tissue is changed to a two-needle overlap tissue, whereby the insertion tissue and the one-needle overlap tissue or the two-needle overlap tissue are changed. It is possible to realize a fabric with a mixed structure.

  In still another embodiment of the present invention, the plurality of change structures may be constituted by an elastic structure, and the ground structure knitted by the inelastic yarn may be a regular tricot structure or a net structure.

  In this way, multiple jacquard reeds can be used together with non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns, and various changing structures can be combined in various ways, so that the required expansion and contraction power is required for areas with low tightening force and areas with high tightening force. It can be made up to the optimal state according to the situation.

  In addition, it is possible to freely express the shape of the strengthened parts scattered in a complex shape, and to expand and contract with a power switching function that shows a clear power difference at the boundary between the high tightening force region and the low tightening force region. A sexual warp knitted fabric can be realized.

  The aforementioned jacquard change organization may be realized by a satin tone net organization, may be realized by a mesh tone net organization, may be realized by a satin tone tricot organization, and further realized by a mesh tone tricot organization. Also good.

  As described above, according to the present embodiment, in a stretch warp knitted fabric in which stretchable yarn is inserted and knitted into a knitted fabric made of non-stretchable yarn to give stretchability to the entire knitted fabric, the structure can be freely changed freely. By using a plurality of cocoons with a jacquard function that can produce a patterned pattern, one jacquard heel uses non-elastic yarn and the other jacquard heel uses elastic yarn. The fabric knitting structure is provided with regions with different tightening forces, and the tightening force is clearly different at the boundary between the regions where the fabric tightening force is high and the regions where the tightening force is low. Realized a fabric composed of elastic warp knitted fabric with power switching function, and with such fabric, the difference in tightening force was clearly different for each desired part, for example, shorts, girdle Foundation of the bra, etc., and other women's underwear, inner for the sport, it is possible to manufacture the clothing, such as supporters.

JB1, JB1-1, JB1-2 Changed structure of inelastic thread JB2, JB2-1, JB2-2 Changed structure of elastic thread GB3 Changed structure of inelastic thread GB4 Changed structure of elastic thread

Claims (6)

A jacquard warp knitting machine equipped with a ground knitting ground fabric and a plurality of jacquard knitting knitting fabrics, and elastic yarns are inserted into or knitted into the knitted fabric made of inelastic yarn to expand and contract the entire knitted fabric It is a knitting method of a stretch warp knitted fabric to knitting a stretch warp knitted fabric to which a property is imparted,
A thread insertion step of inserting an inelastic thread into a part of the jacquard tacks among the plurality of jacquard tacks, and inserting an elastic thread into the remaining jacquard tacks excluding the part of the jacquard tacks;
Changes to be knitted in combination from a plurality of changeable structures having different tightening forces that can be knitted by the part of the jacquard reeds through which the non-elastic yarn is inserted and the remaining jacquard reeds through which the elastic yarn is inserted A selection process for selecting an organization;
A knitting method of a stretch warp knitted fabric, comprising: a knitting step of simultaneously knitting the change organization selected in the selection step and the ground organization by the jacquard warp knitting machine.   The knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the plurality of change tissues include a combination of an insertion structure and a looping structure. The knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the plurality of changed structures include a combination of a one-needle overlap structure and a two-needle overlap structure.   The knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plurality of change tissues include a combination of an insertion structure, a one-needle overlap structure, and a two-needle overlap structure. .   5. The structure according to claim 1, wherein the structure of the elastic yarn is a plurality of change structures, and the ground structure knitted by the inelastic yarn is a regular tricot structure or a net structure. The knitting method of the described stretch warp knitted fabric.   A stretch warp knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method of the stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

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