JP2013124419A - Decorative narrow belt with uneven pattern and method for manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Decorative narrow belt with uneven pattern and method for manufacturing the same Download PDF

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JP2013124419A
JP2013124419A JP2011271832A JP2011271832A JP2013124419A JP 2013124419 A JP2013124419 A JP 2013124419A JP 2011271832 A JP2011271832 A JP 2011271832A JP 2011271832 A JP2011271832 A JP 2011271832A JP 2013124419 A JP2013124419 A JP 2013124419A
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fabric
yarn
tissue
base
weft
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JP5939782B2 (en
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Masaaki Sasaki
正明 佐々木
Takashi Oki
崇司 大木
Manabu Kimishima
学 君島
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Shindo:Kk
株式会社Shindo
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D03D11/02Fabrics formed with pockets, tubes, loops, folds, tucks, or flaps
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/20Physical properties optical
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a decorative narrow belt with uneven patterns, which has uneven patterns excellent in design and a hologram-like appearance formed on the surface of a fabric by a simple process, and which has side edge portions prevented from being curled and is easy to use; and to provide a method for manufacturing the same.SOLUTION: A narrow belt-like composite fabric includes an upper fabric 1 and a lower fabric 2 which are formed of woven or knitted fabrics. Over the composite fabric in the width direction, single-layer structure portions B, in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower fabric 2 are combined, are formed, and double-layer hollow structure portions A, in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower fabric 2 are separated, are also formed. The single-layer structure portions and the double-layer hollow structure portions are alternately arranged. Non-shrinkable fiber yarns constitute warp yarns 11 and weft yarns 12 forming the upper fabric 1, and the warp yarns 21 forming the lower fabric 2. Heat-shrinkable fiber yarns constitute weft shrinkable yarns 22 forming the lower fabric 2. By the heat-shrinking action of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarns, the upper fabric 1 in each of the double-layer hollow structure portions A is raised, and thereby a plurality of projecting stripes 13, 13... are formed in a longitudinal direction.

Description

本発明は、装飾用の細幅帯体の改良、更に詳しくは、簡素な工程により生地の表面に意匠性の優れた凹凸模様とホログラム風の外観を形成することができ、しかも、側縁部がカールすることなく使い勝手の良い凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体およびその製造方法に関するものである。   The present invention is an improvement of a narrow band for decoration, more specifically, it is possible to form a concavo-convex pattern with excellent design and a hologram-like appearance on the surface of a fabric by a simple process, and the side edge portion The present invention relates to a concavo-convex decorative narrow strip that is easy to use without curling, and a method for manufacturing the same.
周知のとおり、衣服を装飾するものとして、装飾用の細幅帯体があり、衣服の側面のラインに配設するなどしてワンポイントアクセントを付与することができる(例えば、特許文献1参照)。   As is well known, there is a decorative narrow band for decorating clothes, and it can be given a one-point accent by arranging it on the side line of the clothes (for example, see Patent Document 1). .
しかしながら、かかる従来の細幅帯体にあっては、平坦な形状でデザインに面白みがなく、装飾性に今一つ物足りなさがあった。   However, such a conventional narrow band body has a flat shape, is not interesting in design, and is unsatisfactory in decoration.
かと言って、生地表面に凹凸を形成して立体的な視覚効果を付与するにしても、ビーズやスパンコールなどの装飾基材を縫着したりすると製造工程が煩雑となり、製造コストが増大するという問題がある。また、生地のたて方向に沿って芯糸を挿入して凹凸を形成する手法もあるが、その分、生地が重くなってしまうという問題があった。   However, even if unevenness is formed on the fabric surface to give a three-dimensional visual effect, if a decorative base material such as beads or sequins is sewn, the manufacturing process becomes complicated and the manufacturing cost increases. There's a problem. In addition, there is a method of forming irregularities by inserting a core yarn along the warp direction of the fabric, but there is a problem that the fabric becomes heavy by that amount.
更にまた、熱収縮糸を使用して、その収縮量の差異を利用して布帛の表面に凹凸を成形するものがあるが、熱収縮糸と非熱収縮糸と交編織した状態で加熱処理を行うと、生地の側縁部における耳部分において、非収縮繊維糸が引っ張られて反り返ってしまい、この部分の見栄えが悪くなるとともに、衣服に装着し難くなってしまうという問題があった。   Furthermore, some heat shrink yarns are used to form irregularities on the surface of the fabric using the difference in shrinkage, but heat treatment is performed in a state where the heat shrink yarn and the non-heat shrink yarn are knitted and woven. When this is done, the non-shrinkable fiber yarn is pulled and warped at the ear portion at the side edge of the fabric, and this portion has a problem that the appearance of the portion is deteriorated and it is difficult to attach to the clothes.
特開2002−38354号公報JP 2002-38354 A
本発明は、従来の装飾用の細幅帯体に上記のような問題があったことに鑑みて為されたものであり、その目的とするところは、簡素な工程により生地の表面に意匠性の優れた凹凸模様とホログラム風の外観を形成することができ、しかも、側縁部がカールすることなく使い勝手の良い凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体およびその製造方法を提供することにある。   The present invention has been made in view of the above-described problems with conventional narrow strips for decoration, and the object of the present invention is to provide a design property on the surface of the fabric by a simple process. It is an object of the present invention to provide a concavo-convex pattern decorative narrow band body that can form an excellent concavo-convex pattern and a hologram-like appearance, and is easy to use without curling the side edges, and a method for manufacturing the same.
本発明者が上記技術的課題を解決するために採用した手段を、添付図面を参照して説明すれば、次のとおりである。   Means employed by the present inventor for solving the above technical problem will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
即ち、本発明は、編織物からなる上地1と下地2とから構成される細幅帯状の複合生地であって、
この複合生地の幅方向に亙り、上地1と下地2とが結合された一重組織部Bが形成されている一方、これら上地1と下地2とが別々に分離している二重袋組織部Aが形成され、かつ、これら一重組織部と二重袋組織部とが交互に配置されており、
前記上地1を構成するたて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12および前記下地2を構成するたて方向糸21が非収縮性繊維糸である一方、下地2を構成するよこ方向収縮糸22が熱収縮性繊維糸からなり、
このよこ方向収縮糸22の熱収縮作用により、上地1における二重袋組織部Aを隆起させ、長さ方向に複数の凸条13・13…を形成するという技術的手段を採用したことによって、凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体を完成させた。
That is, the present invention is a narrow strip-shaped composite fabric composed of an upper fabric 1 and a lower fabric 2 made of a knitted fabric,
A double-tissue structure in which a single tissue portion B is formed in which the upper base 1 and the base 2 are joined to each other in the width direction of the composite fabric, while the upper base 1 and the base 2 are separately separated. Part A is formed, and these single tissue part and double bag tissue part are alternately arranged,
The warp direction yarns 11 and the weft direction yarns 12 constituting the upper base 1 and the warp direction yarns 21 constituting the base 2 are non-shrinkable fiber yarns, while the warp direction contraction yarns 22 constituting the base 2 are heated. Made of shrinkable fiber yarn,
By adopting the technical means of raising the double bag tissue part A in the upper fabric 1 and forming a plurality of ridges 13, 13. And finished the rugged decorative strip.
また、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、細幅帯体の幅方向の両端部Cには一重組織部を位置させ、その内側に二重袋組織部Aを複数列形成して、
熱収縮性繊維糸からなるよこ方向収縮糸22を、前記両端部における一重組織部を除いた内側の範囲内に組織するという技術的手段を採用することができる。
In addition, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a single tissue portion at both ends C in the width direction of the narrow band body, as necessary, and a double bag tissue inside thereof. Forming part A in multiple rows,
A technical means for organizing the weft-direction shrink yarns 22 made of heat-shrinkable fiber yarns within an inner range excluding the single-tissue portions at both ends can be employed.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1および下地2を、連結糸3によって接合して積層一体化するという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-described problems, the present invention employs technical means in which the upper base 1 and the lower base 2 are joined and laminated together by connecting threads 3 in addition to the above-described means. be able to.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1の凸条13の色を濃色とし、凸条13・13間の凹溝部14を明色または淡色で柄模様を設けて、ホログラム風の外観とするという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention makes the color of the ridges 13 of the upper fabric 1 darker in addition to the above means as necessary, and the groove 14 between the ridges 13 and 13 is clarified. It is possible to adopt a technical means of providing a pattern with a color or a light color to give a hologram-like appearance.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1の凸条13を形成する左右の面に、異なる色のたて方向糸を配置し、見る角度により異なった色彩を発揮させるという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention arranges warp direction yarns of different colors on the left and right surfaces forming the ridges 13 of the upper fabric 1 in addition to the above means as necessary. It is possible to adopt a technical means for exhibiting different colors depending on the viewing angle.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、下地2の熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向収縮糸21を、熱水収縮率が20〜60%のポリエステル繊維糸にするという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention, in addition to the above-described means, the weft direction shrink yarn 21 of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn of the foundation 2 has a hot water shrinkage of 20 to 60%. A technical means of forming a polyester fiber yarn can be employed.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1の凸条13・13…の間隔を、1〜3mmの範囲にするという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a technical means for setting the interval between the ridges 13, 13,. Can be adopted.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1および下地2を、たて糸およびよこ糸を交錯してなる織物組織にするという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention employs technical means in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower fabric 2 are made into a woven fabric structure in which warp yarns and weft yarns are mixed in addition to the above-described means as necessary. can do.
更にまた、本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、必要に応じて上記手段に加え、上地1および下地2を、ダブルラッセル機により編成された経編地にするという技術的手段を採用することができる。   Furthermore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention employs technical means of making the upper fabric 1 and the lower fabric 2 into warp knitted fabrics knitted by a double raschel machine in addition to the above-described means as necessary. can do.
また、本発明は、少なくとも2丁杼を有する製織機を用い、非収縮糸のたて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12を交錯させて上地1を形成し、非収縮性繊維糸の下地たて方向糸21と熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向収縮糸22を交錯させて下地2を形成すると同時に、
織物幅方向おいて、上地1と下地2が一体化した一重組織部Bと;上地1と下地2が独立した二重袋組織部Aとが交互に配置するよう複合生地に製織し、
次いで、この複合生地に湿熱または乾熱による加熱処理を行って、前記熱収縮性繊維糸を収縮させることによって二重織袋組織部Aの上地1を隆起せしめて凸条13を形成するという技術的手段を採用することによって、凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体の製造方法を完成させた。
Further, the present invention uses a weaving machine having at least two clovers, crosses the warp direction yarns 11 and the weft direction yarns 12 of the non-shrink yarns to form the upper fabric 1, and forms the base of the non-shrink fiber yarns. At the same time the base yarn 2 is formed by crossing the directional yarn 21 and the weft direction shrinkable yarn 22 of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn,
In the fabric width direction, weaving the composite fabric so that the single tissue portion B in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower substrate 2 are integrated; and the double bag tissue portion A in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower substrate 2 are independent are arranged alternately.
Then, the composite fabric is subjected to heat treatment by wet heat or dry heat, and the heat shrinkable fiber yarn is contracted to elevate the upper fabric 1 of the double woven bag tissue part A to form the ridge 13. By adopting the technical means, the manufacturing method of the concavo-convex decorative narrow strip was completed.
また、本発明は、2つの針床を有したダブルラッセル機を用い、編機の幅方向において両針床で編目を形成して両針床間を連結糸3で一体化した一重組織部Bまたは片側針床のみによる一重組織部Bと、両針床でそれぞれ編地を形成した二重袋組織部Aを交互に配列し、
前記二重袋組織部Aを形成する片側組織のよこ挿入糸26の少なくとも一部に熱収縮性繊維糸を用いて複合生地を編成し、
次いで、この複合生地を湿熱または乾熱による加熱処理を行って、前記熱収縮性繊維糸を収縮させることによって二重織袋組織部Aの上地1を隆起せしめて凸条13を形成するという技術的手段を採用することによって、凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体の製造方法を完成させた。
Further, the present invention uses a double Russell machine having two needle beds, forms a stitch on both needle beds in the width direction of the knitting machine, and integrates the needle beds between the two needle beds with a connecting thread 3. Alternatively, a single tissue portion B formed only by one side needle bed and a double bag tissue portion A each having a knitted fabric formed by both needle beds are alternately arranged,
Knitting a composite fabric using heat-shrinkable fiber yarns in at least part of the weft insertion yarns 26 of the one-sided tissue forming the double bag tissue part A;
Next, the composite fabric is subjected to heat treatment by wet heat or dry heat, and the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn is contracted to raise the upper fabric 1 of the double woven bag tissue portion A to form the ridge 13. By adopting the technical means, the manufacturing method of the concavo-convex decorative narrow strip was completed.
本発明にあっては、編織物からなる上地と下地とから構成される細幅帯状の複合生地であって、この複合生地の幅方向に亙り、上地と下地とが結合された一重組織部が形成されている一方、これら上地と下地とが別々に分離している二重袋組織部が形成され、かつ、これら一重組織部と二重袋組織部とが交互に配置されており、
前記上地を構成するたて方向糸とよこ方向糸および前記下地を構成するたて方向糸が非収縮性繊維糸である一方、下地を構成するよこ方向収縮糸が熱収縮性繊維糸からなり、
このよこ方向収縮糸の熱収縮作用により、上地における二重袋組織部を隆起させ、長さ方向に複数の凸条を形成することができる。
In the present invention, it is a narrow strip-shaped composite fabric composed of a knitted fabric and a base material, and is a single tissue in which the base material and the base material are joined in the width direction of the composite fabric. A double bag tissue part is formed, and the single tissue part and the double bag tissue part are alternately arranged. ,
The warp direction yarns and weft direction yarns constituting the upper fabric and the warp direction yarns constituting the foundation are non-shrinkable fiber yarns, while the warp direction shrink yarns constituting the foundation are heat-shrinkable fiber yarns,
Due to the heat shrinking action of the weft shrinkable yarn, the double bag tissue portion in the upper fabric can be raised, and a plurality of ridges can be formed in the length direction.
したがって、本発明の装飾帯体によれば、簡素な工程で製造することができて、生地の表面に意匠性の優れた凹凸模様を形成することができる。また、芯材を用いずに生地に凹凸を形成できるため、生地の軽量化を実現することができる。   Therefore, according to the decorative belt body of the present invention, it can be manufactured by a simple process, and a concavo-convex pattern with excellent design can be formed on the surface of the fabric. Moreover, since unevenness can be formed on the fabric without using a core material, the weight of the fabric can be reduced.
また、編織組織を調整することで、凸条の間隔を細かくすることや、複数の凸条を簡単に成形することができる。また、熱収縮糸の配置を変更することで、凸条の成形位置を簡単に調節することができる。また、上地と下地との接合位置の間隔を調節することで、凸条の高さを簡単に調節することができる。   Further, by adjusting the woven structure, the interval between the ridges can be made fine, or a plurality of ridges can be easily formed. In addition, by changing the arrangement of the heat-shrinkable yarn, the forming position of the ridge can be easily adjusted. In addition, the height of the ridges can be easily adjusted by adjusting the interval between the joint positions of the upper base and the base.
また、凸条の間隔を細かくして、色糸を組み合わせることによって、ホログラム効果を得ることができる。また、通常の織機または編機を用いるため、容易に設計を変更することができる。   Further, the hologram effect can be obtained by combining the colored yarns with fine intervals between the ridges. Further, since a normal loom or knitting machine is used, the design can be easily changed.
また、凸条の色を濃色とし、凸条間の凹溝部を明色または淡色の先染め糸で柄模様を設けることでホログラム風の外観を発揮することができ、さらには凸条を形成する左右の面を構成するたて方向糸を異なる色とすることで、見る角度により異なった色彩を発揮し、意匠性の優れた装飾細幅帯体を提供することが出来る。   In addition, the color of the ridges can be dark, and the groove between the ridges can be patterned with bright or light-colored dyed yarn to achieve a hologram-like appearance, and further, the ridges can be formed. By making the warp direction yarns constituting the left and right surfaces different colors, different colors can be exhibited depending on the viewing angle, and a decorative narrow band having excellent design can be provided.
更にまた、細幅帯体幅方向の両端部は一重組織部が位置し、その内側に二重袋組織部が複数列形成されており、熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向糸は両端部の一重組織部を除いた内側部の範囲内で組織しているので、熱収縮処理(ヒートセット)しても側縁部がカールすることがなく、非常に見栄えが良くて、衣服などに装着し易くて非常に使い勝手が良いことから、産業上の利用価値は頗る大きいと云える。   Furthermore, a single tissue portion is located at both ends in the width direction of the narrow band, and a plurality of double bag tissue portions are formed inside, and the weft direction yarn of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn is single-ended at both ends. Since it is organized within the range of the inner part excluding the tissue part, the side edges do not curl even after heat shrinkage treatment (heat setting), it looks very good, and it is easy to wear on clothes etc. Because it is very convenient to use, it can be said that the industrial utility value is very large.
本発明の第1実施形態の帯体の構造を表す幅方向概略断面図である。It is a width direction schematic sectional drawing showing the structure of the strip | belt body of 1st Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第1実施形態の加熱後の帯体の構造を表す幅方向概略断面図である。It is a width direction schematic sectional drawing showing the structure of the belt body after the heating of 1st Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第1実施形態の帯体を表す正面図である。It is a front view showing the strip | belt body of 1st Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第1実施形態の帯体の変形例を表す正面図である。It is a front view showing the modification of the strip | belt body of 1st Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第1実施形態の帯体の変形例を表す正面図である。It is a front view showing the modification of the strip | belt body of 1st Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第2実施形態の帯体の構造を表す幅方向概略断面図である。It is a width direction schematic sectional drawing showing the structure of the strip | belt body of 2nd Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第2実施形態の加熱後の帯体の構造を表す幅方向概略断面図である。It is a width direction schematic sectional drawing showing the structure of the belt body after the heating of 2nd Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第2実施形態の帯体を表す正面図である。It is a front view showing the belt body of 2nd Embodiment of this invention. 本発明の第2実施形態の帯体の製造における組織図である。It is an organization chart in manufacture of a belt object of a 2nd embodiment of the present invention.
本発明を実施するための形態を、具体的に図示した図面に基づいて、更に詳細に説明すると、次のとおりである。   The mode for carrying out the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the drawings specifically illustrated as follows.
『第1実施形態』
本発明の第1実施形態を図1から図5に基づいて説明する。図1中、符号1で指示するものは上地1であり、この上地1は織物組織からなり、たて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12により形成する。また、符号2で指示するものは下地2であり、この下地2は織物組織からなり、下地たて方向糸21とよこ方向収縮糸22により形成する。
“First Embodiment”
A first embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. In FIG. 1, what is indicated by reference numeral 1 is an upper ground 1, and the upper ground 1 is made of a woven fabric and is formed by warp direction yarns 11 and weft direction yarns 12. Also, what is indicated by reference numeral 2 is a base 2, which is made of a woven fabric structure and is formed by a base warp direction yarn 21 and a weft direction contraction yarn 22.
本実施形態における細幅帯体の幅方向における両端部(C)には、上地1のみからなる一重組織部が位置し、その内側部には、上地1と下地2が離別した二重袋組織部(A)と、上地1と下地2が一体化された一重組織部(B)とが交互に配置している。ここで、「一重組織部」とは、単独生地または生地の接合により生地が一枚ものになっている状態をいい、「二重組織袋部」とは、上地1と下地2とが非接合に独立して生地間に袋状の隙間が形成されているものをいう。   In the present embodiment, a single tissue portion consisting only of the upper ground 1 is located at both ends (C) in the width direction of the narrow band body, and the upper ground 1 and the base 2 are separated from each other on the inner side. The bag tissue portions (A) and the single tissue portions (B) in which the upper base 1 and the base 2 are integrated are alternately arranged. Here, the “single tissue portion” means a single fabric or a state in which the fabric is a single piece by joining the fabrics, and the “double tissue bag portion” means that the upper fabric 1 and the lower fabric 2 are not. A bag-like gap is formed between the doughs independently of the joining.
本実施形態の両端部(C)の一重組織部は、上地1のたて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12とで構成されている一方、帯体の内側に位置する一重組織部(B)は、上地1と下地2を構成するそれぞれのたて方向糸11/下地たて方向糸21と、よこ方向糸12/よこ方向収縮糸22を互いに交錯させる。この際、上地1または下地2の一部のたて糸、もしくはよこ糸を連結糸として用い、部分的に連結させることにより、高密度で交錯することがないので硬い織物風合いとならず好ましい。   The single tissue portion (C) of both ends (C) of the present embodiment is composed of the warp direction yarn 11 and the weft direction yarn 12 of the upper fabric 1, while the single tissue portion (B) located inside the belt body is The warp direction yarns 11 / the base warp direction yarns 21 and the weft direction yarns 12 / the weft direction contraction yarns 22 constituting the upper ground 1 and the base 2 are crossed with each other. At this time, part of the warp yarn or weft yarn of the upper fabric 1 or the lower fabric 2 is used as a connecting yarn and is partially connected, so that it does not cross at a high density, which is preferable because it does not form a hard fabric texture.
また、上地1のたて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12、および下地2の下地たて方向糸21は非収縮性繊維糸からなり、下地2のよこ方向収縮糸22が熱収縮性繊維糸からなっている。そして上地1を構成するよこ方向糸12は、細幅帯体の全幅を折り返している一方、熱収縮性のよこ方向収縮糸22は細幅帯体1の両端部(C)を除いた内側部で折返されている。   Further, the warp direction yarn 11 and the weft direction yarn 12 of the upper fabric 1 and the warp direction yarn 21 of the base 2 are made of non-shrinkable fiber yarns, and the warp direction shrinkable yarn 22 of the base 2 is made of heat-shrinkable fiber yarns. It has become. The weft-direction yarn 12 constituting the upper fabric 1 is folded back over the entire width of the narrow strip, while the heat-shrinkable weft-direction shrink yarn 22 is an inner side excluding both ends (C) of the narrow strip 1. It is folded in the department.
上地1のたて方向糸11とよこ方向糸12、および下地2の下地たて方向糸21の非収縮性繊維糸は、通常衣料用に用いられている繊維糸であって、合成繊維や半合成繊維、または綿、毛、絹など天然繊維や、それらの混紡糸や交撚糸などを採用することができ、更には、伸長回復性を得る目的でたて方向糸11にスパンデックス弾性繊維を用いることもできる。   The warp direction yarns 11 and the weft direction yarns 12 of the upper fabric 1 and the non-shrinkable fiber yarns of the base warp direction yarn 21 of the base 2 are fiber yarns usually used for clothing, including synthetic fibers and semi-finished fibers. Synthetic fibers or natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, blended yarns or twisted yarns thereof can be used, and further, a spandex elastic fiber is used for the warp direction yarn 11 for the purpose of obtaining stretch recovery. You can also.
一方、下地2のよこ方向収縮糸22に用いる熱収縮性繊維糸としては、ポリエステル繊維やアクリル系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維などの熱可塑性樹脂製繊維を採用することができ、120〜130度の低温度熱処理によって収縮するものが好ましい。本実施形態では、下地2のよこ方向収縮糸22を、熱水収縮率が20〜60%のポリエステル繊維糸を採用する。   On the other hand, as the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn used for the weft-direction shrink yarn 22 of the base 2, a thermoplastic resin fiber such as a polyester fiber, an acrylic fiber, or a vinyl chloride fiber can be employed. Those that shrink by low temperature heat treatment are preferred. In the present embodiment, the weft direction shrink yarn 22 of the base 2 is a polyester fiber yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 20 to 60%.
なお、熱水収縮率はJIS L1013 かせ収縮率(A法、処理温度98±2℃)に準じて測定された値であって、よこ方向収縮糸22の熱水収縮率が20%以下では、凸条13が十分に隆起せず、期待する意匠効果が得られない。また、熱水収縮率が60%以上であると凸条13を隆起させるに好ましいが、細幅帯体1の幅が大きく収縮することになって規格幅に仕上げることが困難になる問題あり、よこ方向収縮糸22の熱水収縮率が20〜60%であること好ましい。   The hot water shrinkage is a value measured according to JIS L1013 skein shrinkage (Method A, treatment temperature 98 ± 2 ° C.), and when the hot water shrinkage of the weft direction shrink yarn 22 is 20% or less, The ridges 13 do not rise sufficiently and the expected design effect cannot be obtained. Moreover, when the hot water shrinkage rate is 60% or more, it is preferable for raising the ridges 13, but there is a problem that it becomes difficult to finish to the standard width because the width of the narrow strip 1 is greatly shrunk, It is preferable that the hot water shrinkage rate of the weft direction shrink yarn 22 is 20 to 60%.
上記した構成で織成した細幅帯体を加熱処理することによって、熱収縮性繊維糸である下地2のよこ方向収縮糸22が熱収縮し、二重袋組織部(A)および一重組織部(B)が幅方向に収縮して、二重袋組織部(A)の上地1が隆起し、細幅帯体の長さ方向に沿って凸条13・13…を形成させることが出来る(図2および図3参照)。   By heat-treating the narrow band woven in the above-described configuration, the weft-direction shrink yarn 22 of the base 2 which is a heat-shrinkable fiber yarn is thermally contracted, and the double bag tissue portion (A) and the single tissue portion ( B) shrinks in the width direction, and the upper ground 1 of the double bag tissue part (A) rises, and the ridges 13, 13,... Can be formed along the length direction of the narrow band ( 2 and 3).
このとき、細幅帯体の両端(C)における一重組織部には熱収縮性のよこ糸が存在していないために、加熱処理しても収縮力が作用しないことから、端部がカールすることがなく、製品としての見栄えを低下させることもないし、衣服への装着作業においてもカール状態を引き延ばしながら縫製加工するような手間を取ることがない。   At this time, since there is no heat-shrinkable weft in the single tissue part at both ends (C) of the narrow band, the contraction force does not act even if heat treatment is performed, so the end part is curled. Therefore, the appearance as a product is not deteriorated, and it is not necessary to perform a sewing process while extending the curled state even in the work of attaching to clothes.
本実施形態では、二重袋組織部(A)および一重組織部(B)の配列を固定して、細幅帯体の長さ方向に沿って連続して存在させても良いが、所定の間隔で二重袋組織部(A)と一重組織部(B)の配列を入れ替えることにより、長さ方向に断続する不連続な凸条13を形成することができ、直線状のものや曲線状の任意模様も簡単に作成することができる(図4参照)。   In the present embodiment, the double bag tissue part (A) and the single tissue part (B) may be fixed and continuously provided along the length direction of the narrow band, By changing the arrangement of the double bag tissue part (A) and the single tissue part (B) at intervals, the discontinuous ridges 13 that are intermittent in the length direction can be formed. Any pattern can be easily created (see FIG. 4).
また、図5に示すように、凸条13の色を濃色とし、凸条13・13間に出来る凹溝部14の色を明色、または淡色とした柄模様を設けることにより、明色または淡色の柄模様が凸条13の間から浮き上がったように観察され、ホログラム風の立体的外観を発揮させることが出来る。   In addition, as shown in FIG. 5, by providing a pattern pattern in which the color of the ridge 13 is dark and the color of the groove 14 formed between the ridges 13 and 13 is light or light, A pale pattern is observed as if it floats from between the ridges 13, and a three-dimensional appearance like a hologram can be exhibited.
例えば、帯体の凸条13を黒色または紺色とし、凹溝部14を凸条13と同色をバックに蛍光白色などの色で隣の凹溝部14と繋がりを持たせたような柄を描くと、凸条13の間から柄が浮かび上がったように観察されると同時に、見る角度を変えることにより、柄が動いているように見える効果が発揮される。   For example, if the ridge 13 of the belt is black or amber, and the groove 14 is connected to the adjacent groove 14 in the color of the same color as the ridge 13, such as fluorescent white, At the same time that the handle is observed to emerge from between the ridges 13, the effect of making the handle appear to move is exhibited by changing the viewing angle.
さらには、凸条13を形成する左右の面に異なる色のたて色糸を配置することにより、見る角度により異なった色彩が目に入るという視覚効果が得られ、優れた意匠効果を発揮することができる。   Furthermore, by arranging warp yarns of different colors on the left and right surfaces forming the ridges 13, a visual effect that different colors enter the eyes depending on the viewing angle is obtained, and an excellent design effect is exhibited. be able to.
本実施形態の細幅帯体の幅は、用途により適宜選択されるものであるが、衣服など装飾帯体として用いるものとしては10〜50mm程度であり、また、凸条13・13…のピッチは1〜3mm程度が好ましい。ピッチは狭い方がホログラム効果が得られ易いものの、1mm以下となると凹溝部14の色柄が目立たなくなるので、1mm以上であることが好ましい。   The width of the narrow band according to the present embodiment is appropriately selected depending on the application, but is about 10 to 50 mm for use as a decorative band such as clothes, and the pitch of the ridges 13, 13,. Is preferably about 1 to 3 mm. Although the hologram effect is more easily obtained when the pitch is narrower, the color pattern of the groove 14 becomes inconspicuous when the pitch is 1 mm or less, and is preferably 1 mm or more.
また、凸条13の高さとしては0.4〜2mm程度が好ましい。0.4mm以下では凹凸感が不足する一方、2mm以上となると形態が不安定となり、凸条13が直線的にならずに見栄えの悪い外観となってしまうからである。   Further, the height of the ridge 13 is preferably about 0.4 to 2 mm. When the thickness is 0.4 mm or less, the unevenness is insufficient. On the other hand, when the thickness is 2 mm or more, the form becomes unstable, and the ridges 13 are not linear, and the appearance is not good.
更にまた、凸条13の形状は長期着用しても形態維持されていることが望ましく、そのためには凸部13を構成する組織は、たて方向糸とよこ方向糸の拘束力の高い平組織で、出来るだけたて方向糸11、およびよこ方向糸12を細繊度で高密度に製織して、硬い織物にすることが好ましい。   Furthermore, it is desirable that the shape of the ridge 13 is maintained even when worn for a long period of time. For this purpose, the structure constituting the ridge 13 is a flat structure having a high restraining force between the warp direction yarn and the weft direction yarn. It is preferable that the warp direction yarn 11 and the weft direction yarn 12 are woven with a fineness and a high density to make a hard woven fabric.
具体的には、たて方向糸11、およびよこ方向糸12の繊度が50〜160dtex、そしてたて方向糸11の織密度が30〜70本/cm、よこ方向糸12の織密度が15〜40本/cmで製織されていることが好ましい。   Specifically, the fineness of the warp direction yarn 11 and the weft direction yarn 12 is 50 to 160 dtex, the weave density of the warp direction yarn 11 is 30 to 70 / cm, and the weave density of the weft direction yarn 12 is 15 to It is preferably woven at 40 pieces / cm.
また、凸条13を構成する織物部の製織条件において、たて方向糸11の繊度をTw(dtex)、織密度をDw(本/cm)、よこ方向糸12の繊度をTf(dtex)、織密度をDf(本/cm)とした際、次式の関係であることが好ましい。
√(Tw×Dw)=k(√(Tf×Df))
なお、k=1.2〜2.0
Further, in the weaving conditions of the woven portion constituting the ridge 13, the warp direction yarn 11 has a fineness Tw (dtex), the weave density Dw (lines / cm), the weft direction yarn 12 has a fineness Tf (dtex), When the weaving density is Df (lines / cm), the relationship of the following formula is preferable.
√ (Tw × Dw) = k (√ (Tf × Df))
K = 1.2 to 2.0
上式の関係とすることにより、凸条13を構成する織物部のたて糸方向の剛性がよこ糸方向の剛性に比べて大きいことであるから、よこ方向糸12が屈曲し易いと同時にたて方向糸11が直線化するので凸状13はよこ方向糸12が鋭角に折れ曲がった状態で直線的に延びるので、意匠性が一段と増すものである。   By using the relationship of the above formula, the warp direction rigidity of the fabric portion constituting the ridge 13 is larger than the rigidity in the weft direction, so that the weft direction thread 12 is easy to bend and at the same time warp direction thread. Since 11 is linearized, the convex shape 13 extends linearly in a state where the weft direction thread 12 is bent at an acute angle, so that the design is further increased.
なお、kが1.2以下であると、凸条13を構成する織物部のたて糸方向の剛性が不足とよこ方向糸12が屈曲し難くなることから凸条13の隆起が長さ方向に不均一となって、期待する意匠効果が得られない。   In addition, if k is 1.2 or less, the weft-direction yarn 12 becomes difficult to bend because the rigidity in the warp direction of the woven fabric portion constituting the ridge 13 is insufficient and the weft-direction yarn 12 is difficult to bend. Thus, the expected design effect cannot be obtained.
一方、kが2.0以上となるとよこ糸方向の剛性が小さくなり、凸条13の形態保持性が低下して着用を繰り返す間に凸条部が潰されて目的とする意匠効果が無くなる問題があり、kの範囲としては1.2〜2.0が好ましいものである。   On the other hand, when k is 2.0 or more, the rigidity in the weft direction is reduced, the shape retaining property of the ridges 13 is lowered, and the ridges are crushed during repeated wearing, and the target design effect is lost. And the range of k is preferably 1.2 to 2.0.
更にまた、凸条13をなるべく直立状に隆起させるためには、二重袋組織部(A)の下地2の収縮率を高くすればよく、高い熱収縮率の繊維糸を用いて、たて糸とよこ糸の拘束力が小さい綾組織や朱子組織とし、収縮するために余裕のある組織、織密度にする。   Furthermore, in order to make the ridges 13 rise as upright as possible, the shrinkage rate of the base 2 of the double bag tissue part (A) may be increased, and a fiber yarn having a high heat shrinkage rate may be used. Use a twill structure or satin structure where the weft yarn has a small binding force.
一方、凹溝部14となる一重組織部(B)については、よこ方向糸の熱収縮性繊維糸の存在による収縮はあるが、たて方向糸の本数を決めて所定の幅にすれば良い。   On the other hand, the single tissue portion (B) that becomes the concave groove portion 14 is shrunk due to the presence of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn of the weft direction yarn, but the number of warp direction yarns may be determined to have a predetermined width.
また、凹溝部14は、上地用のたて方向糸11と下地用の下地たて方向糸21とを入れ替えて柄を形成しながら上下を連結して一重組織部(B)を形成することもでき、柄の表現方法としては、たて糸浮の長い組織で柄を形成することによってよこ方向糸が隠蔽され、上地1のたて方向糸11を背景にして下地2の下地たて方向糸21により、鮮明な柄を描くことが出来る。   Further, the concave groove portion 14 is formed by connecting the warp direction yarn 11 for the upper fabric and the base warp direction yarn 21 for the ground fabric to form a handle while forming a pattern to form a single tissue portion (B). As a method of expressing the pattern, the weft direction thread is concealed by forming the pattern with a long warp float structure, and the warp direction thread of the base 2 is set against the warp direction thread 11 of the top 1 21 makes it possible to draw clear patterns.
本実施形態の織物構造による凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体は、少なくとも2丁杼を有いたシャトル織機や、ニードル織機などを用いて製織することが出来る。なかでもニードル織機であるとたて糸開口を2段に分けて上地1の非収縮性繊維糸と下地2の熱収縮性繊維糸を同時によこ挿入させながら製織することが出来、高い生産性を得ることができる。   The concavo-convex decorative thin strip having the woven structure according to the present embodiment can be woven using a shuttle loom having at least two cloves, a needle loom, or the like. In particular, a needle loom can be woven while the warp yarn openings are divided into two stages and the non-shrinkable fiber yarn of the upper fabric 1 and the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn of the lower fabric 2 are simultaneously inserted into the weft to obtain high productivity. be able to.
具体的な製造工程は、まず、たて糸には上地用と下地用を準備し、幅方向における両端部(C)、二重袋組織部(A)、一重組織部(B)を形成するようたて糸開口させてよこ挿入を繰り返して製織する。この際、両端部(C)は、上地用または下地用のたて方向糸のどちらかを用い、一重組織部(B)においては一部の上地用のたて糸と下地用のたて方向糸を入れ替えて開口させるようにして一重組織部として一体化させる。   The specific manufacturing process is as follows. First, the warp yarn is prepared for the upper side and the lower side, and both end portions (C) in the width direction, the double bag tissue portion (A), and the single tissue portion (B) are formed. Weft weave and repeat weft insertion to weave. At this time, both ends (C) use either warp yarns for the upper or base, and in the single tissue portion (B), some warp yarns for the upper and the base warp are used. The yarn is replaced and opened to be integrated as a single tissue part.
このとき、上地用と下地用のたて方向糸の色を違えておいて、凹溝部14に柄を描くように入れ替えれば、意匠性と兼ねて一体化が出来、より効果的である。   At this time, if the colors of the warp direction yarns for the upper side and the lower side are different from each other and are changed so as to draw a pattern on the concave groove portion 14, the design can be integrated and more effective.
そして、非収縮性繊維糸からなるよこ方向糸12については、全幅に亙って折り返しながらよこ糸挿入させる一方、熱収縮性繊維糸からなるよこ方向収縮糸22は、両端部(C)を除いた内側部分で折返しながら挿入させる。そうすることにより、両端部(C)には熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向糸が挿入されていないので、熱処理しても下地2の側面に収縮力が作用せず、端部のカールを防止することができる。   The weft direction yarn 12 made of non-shrinkable fiber yarn is inserted into the weft yarn while being folded over the entire width, while the weft direction shrink yarn 22 made of heat-shrinkable fiber yarn has both ends (C) removed. Insert it while folding it inside. By doing so, the weft direction yarn of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn is not inserted at both ends (C), so the shrinkage force does not act on the side surface of the base 2 even after heat treatment, and curling of the end is prevented. can do.
次いで、製織された細幅帯体を加熱処理し、下地2側によこ糸挿入した熱収縮性繊維糸(よこ方向収縮糸22)を収縮させ、二重織袋組織部(A)の上地1を隆起せしめて凸条13を形成する。熱収縮処理の方法としては、乾熱、または湿熱方式のどちらでも可能であり、遅延収縮がないように出来るだけ高温で収縮させておくことが好ましく、乾熱方式においては150℃以上、湿熱では100℃以上であることが好ましい処理温度である。また、後染を前提として製織し、後染加工時の染色加工温度で熱収縮させることも出来る。   Next, the woven narrow strip is heat-treated to shrink the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn (weft-direction shrink yarn 22) inserted in the weft yarn on the base 2 side, and the upper fabric 1 of the double woven bag tissue part (A). The ridge 13 is formed by raising. As a method of heat shrinkage treatment, either dry heat or wet heat method is possible, and it is preferable to shrink at a high temperature as much as possible so that there is no delayed shrinkage. The treatment temperature is preferably 100 ° C. or higher. Further, weaving can be performed on the premise of post-dyeing, and heat shrinkage can be performed at the dyeing temperature at the time of post-dyeing.
そして、本発明の装飾帯体は、スポーツウエアなどの衣服に配設して装飾テープとして用いることができ、身体の動きに応じて装飾テープの凹凸模様が立体的外観を呈し、必要に応じて凹溝部14に配設することができる異色の糸が見る角度によって見え隠れすることにより、変化に富んだファッション性の高い衣服を得ることができる。   The decorative band of the present invention can be used as a decorative tape by being arranged on clothes such as sportswear, and the uneven pattern of the decorative tape exhibits a three-dimensional appearance according to the movement of the body, and if necessary By making the differently colored yarns that can be arranged in the concave groove portions 14 appear and disappear depending on the viewing angle, it is possible to obtain a highly fashionable garment rich in change.
『第2実施形態』
本発明の第2実施形態を図6から図9に基づいて説明する。本実施形態では、ダブルラッセルにより編成する経編組織からなる細幅帯体であって、鎖編組織の表側編目15とよこ挿入糸16による上地1および鎖編組織の裏側編目25とよこ挿入糸26による下地2からなり、前記第1実施形態と同じく、編地の幅方向において両端部(C)が配置され、その内側に上地1と下地2がそれぞれ独立した二重袋組織部(A)と、上地1と下地2とを連結糸または一体に編成して一体化された一重組織部(B)が交互に位置している。
“Second Embodiment”
A second embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. In this embodiment, it is a narrow band made of a warp knitted structure knitted by double rassels, and the upper side 1 of the chain stitch structure 15 and the weft insertion thread 16 and the back side stitch 25 of the chain stitch structure and the weft insertion thread 26 As in the first embodiment, both ends (C) are arranged in the width direction of the knitted fabric, and the double bag tissue part (A) in which the upper base 1 and the lower base 2 are independent from each other. And the single structure | tissue part (B) integrated by knitting the upper fabric 1 and the foundation | substrate 2 integrally or connecting them is located alternately.
上記編物構造において、上地1を構成する表側編目15の編糸とよこ挿入糸16、そして下地2を構成する裏側編目25の編糸には非収縮繊維糸を用いる一方、二重袋組織部(A)の下地2のよこ挿入糸26の少なくとも一部には熱収縮性繊維糸(よこ挿入収縮糸26a)を用いて編成する(図6参照)。   In the knitted fabric structure, the non-shrinkable fiber yarn is used for the knitting yarn and the weft insertion yarn 16 of the front side stitch 15 constituting the upper fabric 1 and the knitting yarn of the back side stitch 25 constituting the foundation 2 while the double bag tissue portion ( At least a part of the weft insertion yarn 26 of the base 2 in A) is knitted using a heat-shrinkable fiber yarn (weft insertion shrinkage yarn 26a) (see FIG. 6).
次いで、この編成物を加熱処理することによって、下地2の熱収縮性よこ挿入糸26aの熱収縮によって二重袋組織部(A)の下地2が幅方向に収縮し、二重袋組織部(A)の上地1が隆起して細幅帯体の長さ方向に複数の凸条13・13…を形成することが出来る(図7および図8参照)。なお、熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ挿入収縮糸26aは、二重袋組織部(A)に該当する下地2だけでもよいが、両端部(C)の一重組織部(B)を除いた内側全幅に亙って配置してもよい。   Next, by heating the knitted fabric, the base 2 of the double bag tissue part (A) contracts in the width direction due to the heat shrinkage of the heat shrinkable weft insertion thread 26a of the base 2, and the double bag tissue part ( A) The upper ground 1 is raised, and a plurality of ridges 13, 13... Can be formed in the length direction of the narrow strip (see FIGS. 7 and 8). The weft insertion shrink yarn 26a of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn may be only the base 2 corresponding to the double bag tissue portion (A), but the inner full width excluding the single tissue portion (B) of both end portions (C). It may be arranged over.
図9は本発明の第2実施形態の一実施例を製造するための組織図であり、一重組織部(B)および両端部(C)は、筬L1のよこ挿入組織と、筬L2による鎖編組織による上地1と、筬L4の鎖編組織と筬L5のよこ挿入組織による下地2が形成され、筬L3による連結糸3の鎖編組織により上地1と下地2が編成一体化されており、これらの糸はそれぞれ非収縮性繊維で構成されている。   FIG. 9 is a structure diagram for producing an example of the second embodiment of the present invention. The single tissue part (B) and both end parts (C) are the insertion structure of the heel L1 and the chain formed by the heel L2. The upper fabric 1 by the knitting structure, the base fabric 2 by the chain insertion structure of the collar L4 and the weft insertion structure of the collar L5 is formed, and the upper fabric 1 and the foundation 2 are knitted and integrated by the chain stitch structure of the connecting yarn 3 by the collar L3. Each of these yarns is composed of non-shrinkable fibers.
一方、二重袋組織部(A)は、上地1と下地2とがそれぞれ鎖編組織と挿入組織で独立状態で位置しており、下地2の筬L5の挿入糸には熱収縮性繊維糸(よこ挿入収縮糸26a)が用いられており、編成後に熱処理することで、二重袋組織部(A)の下地2のよこ挿入収縮糸26aが収縮すると同時に、上地1が隆起して凸条13を形成することが出来る。   On the other hand, in the double bag tissue portion (A), the upper fabric 1 and the base fabric 2 are positioned independently in the chain stitch structure and the insert tissue, respectively, and the insertion yarn of the heel L5 of the base fabric 2 is a heat-shrinkable fiber. Yarn (weft insertion contraction thread 26a) is used, and by heat treatment after knitting, the weft insertion contraction thread 26a of the base 2 of the double bag tissue part (A) contracts, and at the same time the upper fabric 1 rises. The ridges 13 can be formed.
本実施形態では、細幅帯体の編組織を鎖編とよこ挿入にすることで、寸法安定性が優れた製品となり好ましいが、これ以外にトリコット編、コード編、アトラス編やよこ挿入の組み合わせなどが使える。   In the present embodiment, the knitting structure of the narrow band body is preferably a chain knitting and weft insertion, which is preferably a product with excellent dimensional stability, but in addition to this, a combination of tricot knitting, cord knitting, atlas knitting, weft insertion, etc. Can be used.
また、一重組織である一重組織部(B)および両端部(C)を上地1と下地2とを連結糸3により一体化した構造としたが、連結糸3を使用せず、上地1または下地2を組織する糸のみで一重組織部を構成しても構わない。その他、糸使いや凸条13のピッチや大きさなどおいては、前記第1実施形態と同様であり、また、効果においても同様に発揮するものである。   Further, the single tissue portion (B) and both end portions (C), which are a single tissue, have a structure in which the upper fabric 1 and the lower substrate 2 are integrated by the connecting yarn 3, but the connecting yarn 3 is not used and the upper fabric 1 Or you may comprise a single structure | tissue part only with the thread | yarn which structures the base | substrate 2. FIG. In addition, the use of yarn and the pitch and size of the ridges 13 are the same as those in the first embodiment, and the same effects are exhibited.
本実施形態の編物構造からなる細幅帯体を製造する具体的方法を以下に説明する。本実施形態では、2つの針床を有したダブルラッセル機を用いて編成することが出来、特に繊細な意匠効果を発揮させるためには24ゲージ以上のファインゲージのダブルラッセル機であることが好ましい。   A specific method for producing a narrow strip having the knitted structure of this embodiment will be described below. In the present embodiment, knitting can be performed using a double Russell machine having two needle beds, and in order to exhibit a particularly delicate design effect, a double gauge Russell machine of 24 gauge or more is preferable. .
そして、このダブルラッセル機を用い、編地の幅方向において両端部(C)に一重組織部を形成し、そしてその内側部に二重袋組織部(A)と一重組織部(B)が交互に配列させ、二重袋組織部(A)のよこ挿入糸26の少なくとも一部には熱収縮性繊維糸(よこ挿入収縮糸26a)を用い、他の編糸等には非収縮性繊維糸を用いて細幅帯体を編成する。   Then, using this double raschel machine, a single tissue part is formed at both ends (C) in the width direction of the knitted fabric, and a double bag tissue part (A) and a single tissue part (B) are alternately arranged on the inner side. The heat-shrinkable fiber yarn (weft insertion shrinkage yarn 26a) is used for at least part of the weft insertion yarn 26 of the double bag tissue part (A), and the non-shrinkage fiber yarn is used for other knitting yarns. A narrow band is knitted using.
次いで、細幅帯体を湿熱または乾熱による加熱処理を行って、二重袋組織部(A)のよこ挿入糸である熱収縮性繊維糸(よこ挿入収縮糸26a)を収縮させることによって、二重織袋組織部(A)の上地1を隆起せしめて凸条13を形成させることにより、本実施形態の細幅帯体を得ることが出来る。   Next, the narrow band body is subjected to heat treatment by wet heat or dry heat, and the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn (weft insertion contraction yarn 26a) which is the weft insertion yarn of the double bag tissue part (A) is contracted, The narrow band body of this embodiment can be obtained by raising the upper ground 1 of the double woven bag tissue part (A) to form the ridges 13.
本発明は、概ね上記のように構成されるが、図示の実施形態に限定されるものでは決してなく、「特許請求の範囲」の記載内において種々の変更が可能であって、例えば、よこ方向収縮糸21やよこ挿入収縮糸26aは、ポリエステル繊維に限らず、アクリル系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維などの熱可塑性樹脂製繊維を採用することができ、これら何れのものも本発明の技術的範囲に属する。   The present invention is generally configured as described above. However, the present invention is not limited to the illustrated embodiment, and various modifications are possible within the description of the “Claims”. The shrink yarn 21 and the weft insertion shrink yarn 26a are not limited to polyester fibers, and may employ thermoplastic resin fibers such as acrylic fibers and vinyl chloride fibers, both of which are within the technical scope of the present invention. Belonging to.
第一実施形態に従い2丁杼のニードル織機を用いて図5に示す外観で〔表1〕に示す条件で製織、熱処理を行って、本発明の細幅帯体を得た。   In accordance with the first embodiment, weaving and heat treatment were performed under the conditions shown in [Table 1] with the appearance shown in FIG. 5 using a 2-cutter needle loom to obtain a narrow strip of the present invention.
〔表1〕 製織条件
糸使い たて方向糸(11・21) ポリエステル加工糸 DDW56dtex/2(双糸)
よこ方向糸(12) ポリエステル加工糸 84dtex
よこ方向高収縮糸(22) ポリエステル高収縮糸 105dtex
織幅 30mm
織密度 たて方向糸(11・21) 89.3本/cm
よこ糸 よこ方向糸(12) 23.3本/cm
よこ方向高収縮糸(22) 23.3本/cm
組織 表地 凸条形成部 平織
谷部 1/4朱子織
裏地 1/4朱子織
二重織部(凸条)の数 9条
熱処理条件 98℃×20min(ウィンス加工機)
[Table 1] Weaving conditions Use of yarn Warp direction yarn (11 ・ 21) Polyester processed yarn DDW56dtex / 2 (double yarn)
Weft direction thread (12) Polyester processed thread 84dtex
Weft direction high shrink yarn (22) Polyester high shrink yarn 105 dtex
Woven width 30mm
Weaving density Warp direction thread (11 ・ 21) 89.3 / cm
Weft thread Weft direction thread (12) 23.3 / cm
Weft direction high shrinkage thread (22) 23.3 / cm
Organization Outer surface ridge forming part plain weave
Tanibe 1/4 Akiko
Lining 1/4 satin weave Number of double weaves (projections) 9 Heat treatment conditions 98 ℃ × 20min (Wind processing machine)
得られた細幅帯体の形態は、以下の〔表2〕に示す通りで、耳部がカールするようなこともなく、また凸条が長さ方向に真っすぐ隆起しており、さらには細幅帯体の見る角度が変わることで凸条間に描かれた白い模様が凸条で見え隠れするために模様が動いているかのように見え、意匠効果の高い細幅帯体であった。   The form of the narrow band obtained is as shown in [Table 2] below, the ears are not curled, the ridges are raised straight in the length direction, and By changing the viewing angle of the width band, the white pattern drawn between the ridges appeared and disappeared on the ridges, so that the pattern seemed to move, and it was a narrow band with a high design effect.
〔表2〕 細幅帯体の形態(熱処理後)
表地幅(全幅) 22mm(熱処理前30mm)
裏地幅 20mm
厚さ(凸条部) 1.4mm
凸条ピッチ 1.6mm
凸条高さ 0.6mm
凸条形成部の糸密度 たて方向糸(11) 50本/cm
よこ方向糸(12) 28本/cm
[Table 2] Form of narrow strip (after heat treatment)
Outer fabric width (full width) 22mm (30mm before heat treatment)
Lining width 20mm
Thickness (projection) 1.4mm
Convex pitch 1.6mm
Convex height 0.6mm
Thread density at the ridge forming section Warp direction thread (11) 50 / cm
Weft direction thread (12) 28 / cm
1 上地
11 たて方向糸
12 よこ方向糸
13 凸条
14 凹溝部
15 表側編目
16 よこ挿入糸
2 下地
21 下地たて方向糸
21a 色糸
22 よこ方向収縮糸
25 裏側編目
26 よこ挿入糸
26a よこ挿入収縮糸
3 連結糸
A 二重袋組織部
B 一重組織部
C 両端部
1 Uechi
11 Warp direction thread
12 Weft direction thread
13 ridges
14 Groove
15 Front stitch
16 Weft insertion thread 2 Base
21 Freshly ground thread
21a colored yarn
22 Weft direction shrink thread
25 Back stitch
26 Weft insertion thread
26a Weft insertion contraction thread 3 Linking thread A Double bag tissue part B Single tissue part C Both ends

Claims (11)

  1. 編織物からなる上地(1)と下地(2)とから構成される細幅帯状の複合生地であって、
    この複合生地の幅方向に亙り、上地(1)と下地(2)とが結合された一重組織部(B)が形成されている一方、これら上地(1)と下地(2)とが別々に分離している二重袋組織部(A)が形成され、かつ、これら一重組織部(B)と二重袋組織部(A)とが交互に配置されており、
    前記上地(1)を構成するたて方向糸(11)とよこ方向糸(12)および前記下地(2)を構成するたて方向糸(21)が非収縮性繊維糸である一方、下地(2)を構成するよこ方向収縮糸(22)が熱収縮性繊維糸からなり、
    このよこ方向収縮糸(22)の熱収縮作用により、上地(1)における二重袋組織部(A)が隆起し、長さ方向に複数の凸条(13・13…)が形成されていることを特徴とする凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。
    A narrow band-shaped composite fabric composed of a knitted fabric upper (1) and base (2),
    A single tissue part (B) in which the upper base (1) and the base (2) are combined is formed in the width direction of the composite fabric, while the upper base (1) and the base (2) are formed. Separately separated double bag tissue parts (A) are formed, and these single tissue parts (B) and double bag tissue parts (A) are alternately arranged,
    The warp direction yarn (11) and the weft direction yarn (12) constituting the upper base (1) and the warp direction yarn (21) constituting the base (2) are non-shrinkable fiber yarns, while the base ( 2) The weft shrink yarn (22) constituting the heat shrinkable fiber yarn,
    Due to the heat shrinking action of the weft direction contraction yarn (22), the double bag tissue portion (A) in the upper fabric (1) is raised, and a plurality of ridges (13, 13,...) Are formed in the length direction. A narrow band with a concavo-convex pattern, characterized by having
  2. 細幅帯体の幅方向の両端部(C)には一重組織部が位置し、その内側に二重袋組織部(A)が複数列形成されており、
    熱収縮性繊維糸からなるよこ方向収縮糸(22)が、前記両端部(C)における一重組織部を除いた内側の範囲内に組織されていることを特徴とする請求項1記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。
    A single tissue part is located at both ends (C) in the width direction of the narrow band, and a plurality of double bag tissue parts (A) are formed inside thereof,
    The concavo-convex pattern according to claim 1, wherein the weft-direction shrink yarn (22) made of heat-shrinkable fiber yarn is organized in an inner range excluding a single tissue portion at the both end portions (C). Decorative narrow strip.
  3. 上地(1)および下地(2)が、連結糸(3)によって接合されて積層一体化されていることを特徴とする請求項1または2記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   3. The concavo-convex pattern decorative narrow strip according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the upper base (1) and the base (2) are joined and joined together by a connecting thread (3).
  4. 上地(1)の凸条(13)の色を濃色とし、凸条(13・13)間の凹溝部(14)を明色または淡色で柄模様を設けて、ホログラム風の外観とすることを特徴とする請求項1〜3の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   The ridges (13) on the top (1) are dark in color, and the grooves (14) between the ridges (13, 13) are bright or light in color to give a hologram-like appearance. The uneven pattern decorative narrow strip according to any one of claims 1 to 3.
  5. 上地(1)の凸条(13)を形成する左右の面に、異なる色のたて方向糸を配置し、見る角度により異なった色彩を発揮させることを特徴とする請求項1〜4の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   The warp direction yarns of different colors are arranged on the left and right surfaces forming the ridges (13) of the upper ground (1), and different colors are exhibited depending on the viewing angle. The concavo-convex decorative thin strip according to any one of the above.
  6. 下地(2)の熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向収縮糸(21)は、熱水収縮率が20〜60%のポリエステル繊維糸であること特徴とする請求項1〜5の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体   6. The shrinkage yarn (21) in the transverse direction of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn of the base (2) is a polyester fiber yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 20 to 60%. The concavo-convex decorative narrow band described
  7. 上地(1)の凸条(13・13…)の間隔が、1〜3mmの範囲であることを特徴とする請求項1〜6の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   The uneven pattern decorative narrow strip according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the interval between the ridges (13, 13, ...) of the upper fabric (1) is in the range of 1 to 3 mm. .
  8. 上地(1)および下地(2)が、たて糸およびよこ糸を交錯してなる織物組織であることを特徴とする請求項1〜7の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   The uneven pattern decorative narrow strip according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the upper fabric (1) and the ground fabric (2) are a woven fabric formed by crossing warp yarns and weft yarns.
  9. 上地(1)および下地(2)が、ダブルラッセル機により編成された経編地であることを特徴とする請求項1〜8の何れか一つに記載の凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体。   The concavo-convex decorative thin strip according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the upper fabric (1) and the ground fabric (2) are warp knitted fabrics knitted by a double raschel machine.
  10. 少なくとも2丁杼を有する製織機を用い、非収縮糸のたて方向糸(11)とよこ方向糸(12)を交錯させて上地(1)を形成し、非収縮性繊維糸の下地たて方向糸(21)と熱収縮性繊維糸のよこ方向収縮糸(22)を交錯させて下地(2)を形成すると同時に、
    織物幅方向おいて、上地(1)と下地(2)が一体化した一重組織部(B)と;上地(1)と下地(2)が独立した二重袋組織部(A)とが交互に配置するよう複合生地に製織し、
    次いで、この複合生地に湿熱または乾熱による加熱処理を行って、前記熱収縮性繊維糸を収縮させることによって二重織袋組織部(A)の上地(1)を隆起せしめて凸条(13)を形成することを特徴とする凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体の製造方法。
    Using a weaving machine having at least 2 crests, the warp direction yarn (11) and the weft direction yarn (12) of the non-shrink yarn are crossed to form the upper fabric (1), and the base of the non-shrink fiber yarn At the same time as forming the base (2) by crossing the directional yarn (21) and the weft direction shrink yarn (22) of the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn,
    A single tissue part (B) in which the upper fabric (1) and the base (2) are integrated in the fabric width direction; and a double bag tissue part (A) in which the upper (1) and the base (2) are independent. Woven into a composite fabric so that the
    Next, the composite fabric is subjected to a heat treatment by wet heat or dry heat to shrink the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn, so that the upper fabric (1) of the double woven bag tissue part (A) is raised to form a ridge ( (13) A method for producing a concavo-convex decorative narrow strip characterized by forming
  11. 2つの針床を有したダブルラッセル機を用い、編機の幅方向において両針床で編目を形成して両針床間を連結糸(3)で一体化した一重組織部(B)または片側針床のみによる一重組織部(B)と、両針床でそれぞれ編地を形成した二重袋組織部(A)を交互に配列し、
    前記二重袋組織部(A)を形成する片側組織のよこ挿入糸(26)の少なくとも一部に熱収縮性繊維糸を用いて複合生地を編成し、
    次いで、この複合生地を湿熱または乾熱による加熱処理を行って、前記熱収縮性繊維糸を収縮させることによって二重織袋組織部(A)の上地(1)を隆起せしめて凸条(13)を形成することを特徴とする凹凸模様装飾細幅帯体の製造方法。
    A single tissue part (B) or one side where a double raschel machine with two needle beds is used, stitches are formed on both needle beds in the width direction of the knitting machine, and both needle beds are integrated with a connecting thread (3) A single tissue part (B) consisting only of a needle bed and a double bag tissue part (A) each having a knitted fabric formed on both needle beds are alternately arranged,
    Knitting a composite fabric using heat-shrinkable fiber yarns for at least part of the weft insertion yarns (26) of the one-sided tissue forming the double bag tissue part (A),
    Next, the composite fabric is subjected to a heat treatment by wet heat or dry heat to shrink the heat-shrinkable fiber yarn, so that the upper fabric (1) of the double woven bag tissue part (A) is raised to form a ridge ( (13) A method for producing a concavo-convex decorative narrow strip characterized by forming
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