JP2013028554A - Hair cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To improve finish of hair after drying.SOLUTION: This hair cosmetic includes: (A) a specific amidoamine; (B) a 14-22C fatty alcohol ; (C) a 2-8C organic carboxylic acid; (D) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester consisting of ester of a 10-30C saturated fatty acid and polyglycerol having 1-4 average polymerization degree of glycerol; and water, wherein the mass ratio ((A)/(D)) of the component (A) relative to the component (D) is 2-40.

Description

  The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic.

  Hair cosmetics such as rinses, conditioners and treatments are used to improve the feel of the hair after shampooing. As hair cosmetics, those containing a cationic surfactant as a main component and further blended with a higher alcohol or an oil agent are known.

  For example, Patent Document 1 discloses that an emulsion containing a cationic surfactant and a higher alcohol is mixed with a silicone emulsion prepared at a pH lower than the pH of the emulsion, thereby coloring or bleaching hair. It describes hair cosmetics that have an effect of improving touch, non-stickiness in repeated use, and excellent stability.

  In recent years, hair cosmetics using amidoamine as a cationic surfactant are also known. Patent Document 2 discloses a hair protecting agent that can suppress the spread of the hair tip by adding amidoamine, glycerin fatty acid ester, and phosphoric acid, and can give the hair a firmness and a volume feeling at the top. Have been described.

  In Patent Document 3, a specific amidoamine and an alcohol containing a linear higher alcohol in a specific ratio are used in combination so that it has excellent thickening property (gel-forming property) and stability over time, and is applied to hair. There is described a hair cosmetic that can give a sufficient smoothness and moist feeling, and a sufficient smoothness and good combing after drying.

JP 2005-89372 A JP 2002-29932 A JP 2005-298447 A

  However, in the above-described technique, while the hair is smooth, there is room for improvement in terms of the finish after drying. In particular, when the moist feeling after drying is too strong, stickiness appears after drying, and the hair feel may be inferior.

  The present inventor has found a hair cosmetic that uses an amidoamine having a fatty acid residue of 20 or more carbon atoms as a cationic surfactant and uses it in combination with a polyglycerin fatty acid ester to improve the finish of the hair after drying. It was.

According to the present invention,
The following ingredients:
(A) Amidoamine represented by the general formula (1)

[In the formula, R ¹ CO is a fatty acid residue in which the proportion of fatty acid residues having 20 or more carbon atoms is 75% by mass or more, the proportion of fatty acid residues having 20 carbon atoms is 3% by weight or more in all fatty acid residues, and 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid residue whose ratio of a residue is 70-95 mass% is shown. ]
(B) C14-C22 aliphatic alcohol (C) C2-C8 organic carboxylic acid (D) C10-C30 saturated fatty acid and polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization of 1-4 A polyglycerol fatty acid ester consisting of an ester with water and water,
A hair cosmetic composition in which the mass ratio ((A) / (D)) of the component (A) to the component (D) is 2 to 40 is provided.

  According to the present invention, the smoothness and flexibility at the time of application and rinsing are excellent, and the hair cosmetic material uniformly adheres after drying to give a moist feel to the hair. It is possible to obtain a hair cosmetic that gives a smooth feel.

It is a figure which shows the result of having observed the mica board | substrate immersed in the dilution liquid of hair cosmetics with the atomic force microscope (AFM).

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described.
[(A) Amidoamine]
The (A) component amidoamine used in the present invention is represented by the following general formula (1).

In the amidoamine of the component (A) used in the present invention, the composition of the fatty acid residue represented by R ¹ CO is such that the proportion of fatty acid residues having 20 or more carbon atoms in the total fatty acid residues is 75% by mass or more, preferably The proportion of fatty acid residues of 90 mass% or more and 20 carbon atoms is 3 mass% or more, preferably 4 mass% or more, more preferably 5 mass% or more, and the proportion of fatty acid residues of 22 carbon atoms is 70 to 95. % By mass, preferably 80 to 95% by mass. In the present invention, the fatty acid residue means a site of R ¹ CO. R ¹ may be either a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, but is preferably a linear alkyl group.

  In the amidoamine represented by the general formula (1), examples of the amidoamine having a fatty acid residue having 20 or more carbon atoms include arachidic acid dimethylaminopropylamide and behenic acid dimethylaminopropylamide. Among these, as the amidoamine having a fatty acid residue having 20 carbon atoms, arachidic acid dimethylaminopropylamide is exemplified, and as the amidoamine having a fatty acid residue having 22 carbon atoms, behenic acid dimethylaminopropylamide is exemplified.

  Specific examples of the amide amine as the component (A) which may be contained in addition to the fatty acid residue having 20 or more carbon atoms include lauric acid dimethylaminopropylamide, myristic acid dimethylaminopropylamide, palmitic acid dimethylaminopropylamide, stearic acid Examples thereof include dimethylaminopropylamide, oleic acid dimethylaminopropylamide, etc. Among them, stearic acid dimethylaminopropylamide is preferable.

  (A) The amide amine of component (A) is preferably used in combination of two or more. Among them, in terms of performance, stability, availability and the like, stearic acid dimethylaminopropylamide, arachidic acid dimethylaminopropylamide, and behenine A combination with acid dimethylaminopropylamide is preferable, and for example, commercially available AMIDET APA-22 (Kao Corporation) can be used. The content of the component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, and preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention. Is more preferable, and 0.5-5 mass% is further more preferable. In addition, an amidoamine salt may be formed in advance from the amidoamine of component (A) and the organic carboxylic acid of component (C) described later, and then contained in the hair cosmetic.

[(B) C14-22 aliphatic alcohol]
The aliphatic alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms as the component (B) used in the present invention may be a saturated aliphatic alcohol or an unsaturated aliphatic alcohol. A saturated aliphatic alcohol having 16 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable, and a saturated aliphatic alcohol having 18 carbon atoms is particularly preferable. Further, it may be a linear aliphatic alcohol or a branched aliphatic alcohol, but is preferably a linear aliphatic alcohol. Specific examples of the aliphatic alcohol include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Stearyl alcohol is particularly preferable.

  The component (B) aliphatic alcohol may be used in combination of two or more, and the content thereof is preferably 0.5 to 15% by mass from the viewpoint of feeling of use. 1-10 mass% is more preferable.

  Moreover, from the point of stability improvement of hair cosmetics, the content ratio ((B) / (A)) of the aliphatic alcohol of the component (B) to the amidoamine of the component (A) is preferably 1.5 to 10. 1.5 to 6 is more preferable.

[(C) C2-C8 organic carboxylic acid]
Examples of the organic carboxylic acid having 2 to 8 carbon atoms include lactic acid, glutamic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, levulinic acid, acetic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid. Especially, a C2-C8 hydroxycarboxylic acid or a C2-C8 aminocarboxylic acid is preferable, and a C3-C5 thing is more preferable. Specifically, lactic acid, glutamic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, glycolic acid, and malic acid are more preferable, and lactic acid, glutamic acid, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid are more preferable.

  These components (C) may be used in combination of two or more, and their content is from the point of hair internal reforming effect (such as cavity repair), mass improvement effect, set improvement effect, and moisture resistance effect of the mass The free acid equivalent amount is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, and further preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.

  In addition, the molar ratio ((C) / (A)) of the organic carboxylic acid of the component (C) to the amidoamine of the component (A) is 0.1 to 10 from the viewpoint of product stability and smoothness during application. Preferably, 0.5-5 is more preferable.

[(D) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester]
The (D) component polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester composed of an ester of a saturated fatty acid having 10 to 30 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization of glycerol of 1 to 4.

The polyglycerol fatty acid ester of component (D) has an average degree of polymerization of glycerol of 1 to 4, preferably 1. The average degree of polymerization of glycerin is determined by end group analysis. In this end group analysis method, the degree of polymerization (n) and molecular weight (MW) of glycerin are determined by the following formula from the relationship between the measured value of hydroxylation (OHV) and the theoretical value ["polyglycerin ester, 33-34". Page (October 3, 1994, published by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)].
(Equation 1)
MW = 74n + 18
(Equation 2)
OHV = 56110 (n + 2) / MW

  The fatty acid residue of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester (D) is a saturated fatty acid having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, but the hair cosmetics uniformly adheres after drying, so that the hair after drying is moist and smooth. From the viewpoint that a feeling can be imparted, the carbon number of 14 to 22 is preferable, and the carbon number of 18 to 20 is more preferable. Those having a linear saturated fatty acid residue are more preferred, and those having a linear saturated fatty acid residue having 18 to 20 carbon atoms are particularly preferred.

  Typical polyglycerin fatty acid esters include glycerin monofatty acid esters, glycerin difatty acid esters, and diglycerin monofatty acid esters, but from the viewpoint of imparting a moist and dry feeling to the hair after drying, A glycerin monofatty acid ester consisting of 1 mol of fatty acid and 1 mol of glycerin is preferred.

  Examples of the glycerin monofatty acid ester include glycerin monodecanoic acid ester, glycerin monolauric acid ester, glycerin monomyristic acid ester, glycerin monopalmitic acid ester, glycerin monostearic acid ester, glycerin monobehenic acid ester and the like. Of these, glycerol monostearate is particularly preferable.

  (D) The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (D) may be used in combination of two or more, and the content thereof is such that the hair cosmetics uniformly adheres after drying, so that the hair after drying is moist and smooth. From the viewpoint of imparting feeling, the content of the component (D) is preferably 0.1 to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.2 to 1% by mass.

As described above, the content mass ratio ((A) / (D)) of the (A) component amidoamine to the (D) component polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 2 to 40, but the hair cosmetic is uniform after drying. From the viewpoint of imparting a moist feeling to the hair after drying and adhering to the hair, and suppressing stickiness, 2 to 20 is preferable, and from the viewpoint of achieving both moist and dry feeling on the hair after drying, 4 to 10 Is more preferable.
In addition, the content ratio (B) / (D) of the aliphatic alcohol of the component (B) to the polyglycerin fatty acid ester of the component (D) is such that the hair cosmetic material uniformly adheres after drying. From the viewpoint of imparting a moist feeling to the subsequent hair and suppressing stickiness, 5 to 100 is preferable, 5 to 52 is more preferable, and 10 to 30 is even more preferable.

  The content of water is preferably 50% by mass or more and 98% by mass or less, and more preferably 60% by mass or more and 95% by mass or less in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention.

  In the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention, the (A) component, the (B) component, and the (C) component are combined with the (D) component in a well-balanced manner so that it adheres uniformly to the hair at the time of application. A moist feeling can be imparted, and the coat feeling and moist feeling during rinsing can be further enhanced. In addition, the hair after drying is soft and moist but not sticky and can further enhance the smooth feel. This is because the polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (D) weakens the amide interaction between the molecules of the amide amine of component (A), so the α gel formed by components (A) to (D) adheres to the hair In this case, it is presumed that the phase solubility of the component (A) amidoamine and the component (B) aliphatic alcohol is increased, and the film structure is uniformly formed and adhered. In the α gel of (A) component to (C) component that does not contain the polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (D), association due to interaction between amide amines and aliphatic alcohols is observed during adsorption, and uneven adsorption In order to form a film, it affects the feeling of use at the time of application, and it is presumed that the feeling at the time of rinsing, particularly the feeling after drying, is also affected.

[Other ingredients]
The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is selected from aromatic alcohol and polypropylene glycol from the viewpoints of improving smoothness and slipperiness during application / rinsing, and further imparting softness to the hair after drying. An organic solvent can be contained.

   Examples of the aromatic alcohol include benzyl alcohol, cinnamyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, p-anisyl alcohol, p-methylbenzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, 2-benzyloxyethanol and the like. Among these, benzyl alcohol and 2-benzyloxyethanol are more preferable, and benzyl alcohol is more preferable from the viewpoints of smoothness and flexibility when applied to hair and rinsing.

   Polypropylene glycol is preferably polypropylene glycol having a number average molecular weight of 100 to 1000, more preferably having a number average molecular weight of 200 to 700, and still more preferably having a molecular weight of 300 to 500. Here, the number average molecular weight means the number average molecular weight in terms of polystyrene measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC).

  Two or more kinds of these organic solvents may be used in combination, and the content thereof in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is from the viewpoint of adsorptivity to the hair, elasticity of the hair, and imparting flexibility. 0.01-50 mass% or less is preferable, 0.1-35 mass% is more preferable, 0.2-10 mass% is further more preferable.

  A silicone compound can be further added to the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention in order to further improve the feel and hair repairing effect on the hair. Examples of the silicone compound include highly polymerized dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, and cyclic silicone.

  The hair cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other components generally used in hair cosmetics depending on the purpose. For example, polymer compounds such as cationized cellulose, cationized guar gum, hydroxylated cellulose, and highly polymerized polyethylene oxide; humectants such as glycerin, propylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol; polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, Nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, behenic acid and oleic acid; inorganic acids such as phosphoric acid; ester oils such as isopropyl myristate; liquid isoparaffin, petrolatum, squalane, etc. Hydrocarbons; anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione and benzalkonium chloride; other chelating agents, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, coloring agents, fragrances, preservatives and the like.

  The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably uses an acid to neutralize the (A) component amidoamine and adjust the pH. As the acid, in addition to the component (D), an organic acid such as an inorganic acid, an alkyl sulfuric acid, an alkyl phosphoric acid, or an acidic amino acid can be used. The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably adjusted to have a pH (25 ° C.) of 2 to 5 when diluted 20 times by weight with water, particularly 3 to 5 so that the hair after drying is good. It is preferable in terms of touch, flexibility, elasticity, adsorption, and physical safety. In addition to the above acid, sodium hydroxide or the like can be used as a basic substance for pH adjustment.

  The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention can be suitably used for dosage forms such as hair rinses, hair conditioners, hair treatments, etc. that are used after shampooing the hair, applying to the hair, and rinsing with water.

  As mentioned above, although embodiment of this invention was described, these are illustrations of this invention and various structures other than the above are also employable.

  Hereinafter, everything shown in% is% by mass.

Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-5
Hair cosmetics (hair conditioners) shown in Table 1 were prepared by a conventional method and evaluated by the following evaluation methods. The results are shown in Table 1. In addition, each component in Table 1 is represented by mass%. The pH is a value obtained by diluting each composition 20 times by mass with water and measuring at 25 ° C.

Evaluation method The hair of a Japanese woman that has been treated once with straight perm and twice with bleach is treated as damaged hair, and each of the 20 panelists (length 30 cm, average diameter 80 μm) is treated by 5 panelists as follows. Sensory evaluation was performed.

  After applying 2 g of the hair cosmetics shown in Table 1 to the hair bundle washed with 2 g of standard shampoo having the following formulation, and thoroughly blending it into the whole hair, it is rinsed under running water of about 40 ° C. for about 30 seconds, Next, towel drying was performed, and after drying with a dryer, evaluation after drying was performed. The evaluation was performed by five people, and the integrated value was obtained.

・ Standard shampoo formulation (pH 7.0)
25% polyoxyethylene (2.5) sodium lauryl ether sulfate 62.0% by mass
Lauric acid diethanolamide 2.3% by mass
Edetate disodium 0.15% by mass
Sodium benzoate 0.5% by mass
Sodium chloride 0.8 mass%
75% phosphoric acid appropriate amount Fragrance, methylparaben appropriate amount Purified water remaining

Evaluation criteria (1) Smoothness at application 4: Very smooth 3: Slightly smooth 2: Not very smooth 1: Not smooth (2) Smoothness at rinsing 4: Very smooth 3: Slightly smooth 2: Not very smooth 1: Not smooth (3) Softness when rinsing 4: Very soft 3: Slightly soft 2: Not very soft 1: Not soft (4) Moist feeling after drying 4: Very moist 3: Slightly moist 2 : Not very moist 1: Not moist (5) Not sticky after drying 4: Not sticky 3: 3: Not sticky 2: Slightly sticky 1: Very sticky (6) Smooth after drying Sense 4: very free 3: slightly free 2: not very free 1: not free (7) flexibility after drying 4: Very flexible 3: Somewhat flexible 2: Not very flexible 1: Not flexible

In addition, the raw material name and manufacturer of each component in Table 1 are as follows.
・ Lactic acid (90% solution)
Stearyl alcohol (raw material) Calcoal 8098 (manufacturer) Kao Corporation L-glutamic acid (raw material name) L-glutamic acid (manufacturer) Ajinomoto Co., Inc. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (raw material name) AJIDEW A-100 (manufacturer) Ajinomoto Co., Inc.・ Glycerol monostearate (raw material name) NIKKOL MGS-AV (manufacturer) Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. ・ Glycerin monomyristic acid ester (raw material name) NIKKOL MGM (manufacturer) Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. ・ Tetraglycerin monostearic acid ester (raw material name) ) NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-SV
(Manufacturer) Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. ・ Monoglyceryl monooleate (glycerin monooleate)
(Raw material name) NIKKOL MGO (Manufacturer) Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.

The following experiment using a mica substrate was performed as a model experiment showing that the hair cosmetic of the present invention uniformly adheres to hair after drying.
First, a 1.5 cm × 1.5 cm mica substrate (Nihon Mica Manufacturing Co., Ltd., raw mica) was immersed in water for 10 seconds and then pulled up. Next, after immersing the standard shampoo of the above formulation in a diluted solution diluted 20 times for 1 minute, it was pulled up and washed with 20 ml of water. Thereafter, each was dipped in a 10-fold diluted solution of the hair cosmetics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 for 1 minute, then pulled up and washed with 20 ml of water.
The cleaned mica substrate (MFP-3DTM manufactured by Asylum Technology Co., Ltd.) was observed with an atomic force microscope (AFM). The observation results are shown in FIG.

  1A shows an AFM image of a mica substrate using the hair cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 1. FIG. Moreover, FIG.1 (b) shows the AFM image of the mica board | substrate using the hair cosmetics of Example 1. FIG. As shown to Fig.1 (a), the mica board | substrate using the hair cosmetics of the comparative example 1 has the some space | gap part scattered on the board | substrate. This is because in the α gel of component (A) to component (C), an aggregate formed by the interaction of amide amines and aliphatic alcohols does not form a uniform adsorption film. It is thought that it was dropped from. On the other hand, it turns out that the mica board | substrate using the hair cosmetics of Example 1 of Table 1 has adhered uniformly. This shows that the (A) component, the (B) component, and the (C) component are combined with the (D) component in a well-balanced manner so that they are uniformly attached to the hair at the time of application.

Claims (7)

The following ingredients:
(A) Amidoamine represented by the general formula (1)
[In the formula, R ¹ CO is a fatty acid residue in which the proportion of fatty acid residues having 20 or more carbon atoms is 75% by mass or more, the proportion of fatty acid residues having 20 carbon atoms is 3% by weight or more in all fatty acid residues, and 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid residue whose ratio of a residue is 70-95 mass% is shown. ]
(B) C14-C22 aliphatic alcohol (C) C2-C8 organic carboxylic acid (D) C10-C30 saturated fatty acid and polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization of 1-4 A polyglycerol fatty acid ester consisting of an ester with water and water,
Hair cosmetics wherein the mass ratio of the component (A) to the component (D) ((A) / (D)) is 2-40.   The hair cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the component (D) in the hair cosmetic is 0.1 to 2% by mass.   The hair cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (D) comprises an ester of a linear saturated fatty acid having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and the polyglycerin.   The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the component (D) is a glycerin monofatty acid ester.   The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the content of the component (A) in the hair cosmetic is 0.1 to 15% by mass.   The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the content of the component (B) in the hair cosmetic is 0.5 to 15% by mass.   The hair cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the content of the component (C) in the hair cosmetic is 0.1 to 5% by mass.