JP2012001458A - Skin care composition for external use - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a skin care composition for external use while maintaining effects to the skin, which mannosyl erythritol lipid has, further recovering the lamellar structure of intracellular lipids and extremely improving a horny cell layer barrier function.SOLUTION: This skin care composition for external use, extremely improving the objective horny cell layer barrier function, is characterized by using the skin care composition for external use containing vesicles consisting of (9:1) to (8:2) mass ratio of the mannosyl erythritol lipid to a sucrose fatty acid ester.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition for external use on skin and a skin stratum corneum improving agent characterized by containing a vesicle composed of mannosyl erythritol lipid and a sucrose fatty acid ester.

The stratum corneum exists in the outermost layer of the skin, and can be said to be an important biological defense organ having a function of preventing physical and chemical stimulation from the outside. Such protection is derived from the dense layered structure of the stratum corneum cells constituting the stratum corneum, that is, the skin barrier structure. Such a skin barrier function is largely derived from the structure of stratum corneum cells, and if an abnormality occurs in the stratum corneum cells or the stratum corneum that is a layered structure thereof, it is impossible to prevent the invasion of foreign substances. , Undesirable bacteria, viruses, substances that adversely affect the living body enter the living body, cause diseases such as inflammation, the retention of the in vivo substance in the body is incomplete, and suppress the dissipation of water from the skin It becomes impossible to reduce the amount of moisture in the skin and impairs the appearance of the skin, such as the dryness and freshness of the skin.

Various cosmetics have been developed to improve the barrier function of the stratum corneum, with the aim of maintaining and reinforcing the moisture-retaining function of the cosmetics and stratum corneum that occupy most of the stratum corneum intercellular lipids. Cosmetics containing polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, organic acids such as amino acids, and plant extracts have been developed. It has also been reported that by using ceramides and tannins in combination, a cosmetic that exhibits a remarkably superior skin barrier function compared to the case where these components are used alone can be obtained (for example, , See Patent Document 1). In addition, as cosmetics containing animal secretions, those containing royal jelly in cosmetics have been developed, and it has been reported that they have the effect of maturing keratinocytes and improving the skin barrier function (for example, patents) Reference 2).

Mannosyl erythritol lipid is a natural surfactant produced by yeast, so-called biosurfactant. For use as an external preparation or cosmetic, anti-inflammatory agent and anti-allergic agent (Patent Document 3), hair nourishing / hair restoring agent (patented) The usefulness as literature 4), the antibacterial action (Patent Literature 5), and the effect of improving rough skin (Patent Literature 6) have been known. However, the composition for external use containing vesicles composed of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester restores the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in the lower stratum corneum, especially the lower 10 layers, and greatly improves the stratum corneum barrier function. In particular, in an environment where the moisture content in the lower stratum corneum exceeds 35% by mass, it is completely known that the vesicle of the administered composition for external use of skin undergoes a phase transition to a flat lamellar state and restores the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids. It wasn't. Mannosyl erythritol lipid has a structure represented by the following general formula (1).

However, R < ₁ >, R < ₂ > represents a C6-C20 acyl group. R ₃ and R ₄ represent an acetyl group or hydrogen.

JP 2001-261520 A JP 2001-240529 A JP 2005-68015 A JP 2003-261424 A JP-A-57-145896 Table WO2007-060956

An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for external use on skin that can maintain the effect of mannosyl erythritol lipid on the skin, further recover the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids, and extremely improve the stratum corneum barrier function.

In view of such a situation, the present inventors used a combination of materials used in the cosmetics field, and while maintaining the effect on the skin of mannosyl erythritol lipid, the lamella structure of intercellular lipids was further increased. As a result of earnest research aimed at recovering and extremely improving the stratum corneum barrier function, it was found that the composition for external use as shown below can solve the above problems, and the present invention was completed. That is, the present invention is as follows.

(1) A composition for external use on skin, comprising a vesicle comprising mannosylerythritol lipid having a structure represented by the general formula (1) and a sucrose fatty acid ester.
(2) The external composition for skin according to (1), wherein the mass ratio of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is 9: 1 to 8: 2.
(3) The external composition for skin according to (1) or (2), wherein the total amount of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is less than 65% by mass and changes from a vesicle state to a flat lamella state. object.
(4) The skin stratum corneum improving agent according to any one of (1) to (3), which improves the lamellar structure of the skin stratum corneum lower layer.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a composition for external use for skin, which can maintain the effect on the skin of mannosyl erythritol lipid, further recover the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids, and greatly improve the stratum corneum barrier function. Is possible.

<1> Vesicle of the Present Invention The vesicle of the present invention is a spherule for cosmetics, characterized in that it is a vesicle having mannosylerythritol lipid and a sucrose fatty acid ester. By mixing mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester, it has the effect of enhancing the stability of the vesicle and the skin permeability and enhancing the stratum corneum barrier function. The mass ratio of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is preferably 9: 1 to 8: 2.

The vesicle of the present invention can be prepared by treating such components according to a conventional method. As a specific treatment method, it is preferable to prepare and prepare particles by using a homomixer, a disper mixer, an extruder, a microfluidizer or the like. The vesicles thus obtained are excellent in uniform and stable dispersibility in cosmetics and permeability into the skin. The preferable content of the vesicle in the cosmetic is preferably 0.001 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.

In the vesicle of the present invention, it is more preferable to contain a component that reinforces the lipid bilayer structure of the vesicle. Examples of the component that reinforces the lipid bilayer structure of the vesicle include cholesterol, campesterol, sitosterol, Preferable examples include sterols such as phytosterol such as stigmasterol, glycosides thereof, sphingosine-related substances such as sphingosin, glycosphingolipid, and sphingophospholipid.

<2> Mannosyl erythritol lipid of the present invention The vesicle of the present invention contains a mannosyl erythritol lipid. Four types of mannosyl erythritol lipids are known, MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C and MEL-D, depending on the presence or absence of acetyl groups at the 4th and 6th positions of mannose. In formula (1), R < ₁ >, R < ₂ > is a C6-C20 saturated or unsaturated acyl group, R < ₃ >, R < ₄ > represents an acetyl group or hydrogen. That is, MEL-A has a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms at the 2nd and 3rd positions of mannose in formula (1), and an acetyl group at the 4th and 6th positions of mannose. It is a compound that has. MEL-B has a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms at the 2nd and 3rd positions of mannose in formula (1), hydrogen at the 4th position of mannose, and an acetyl group at the 6th position. It is a compound which has this. MEL-C has a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms at the 2nd and 3rd positions of mannose in formula (1), an acetyl group at the 4th position of mannose and hydrogen at the 6th position. It is a compound that has. MEL-D is a compound having a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the 2nd and 3rd positions of mannose and hydrogen in the 4th and 6th positions of mannose in formula (1). is there.

The production method of mannosyl erythritol lipid is not particularly limited, but a fermentation method using a known production microorganism may be arbitrarily selected. For example, the culture production can be performed by culturing Pseudozyma antarctica NBRC 10736 according to a conventional method. As production microorganisms, in addition to the above, Candida antarctica, Candida sp., Etc. can be used. It is well known that mannosyl erythritol lipid can be easily obtained by culturing these microorganisms. The production microorganism is not particularly limited and can be appropriately selected according to the purpose.

The mannosyl erythritol lipid obtained as described above is preferably used by being blended in cosmetics, quasi drugs, pharmaceuticals, and foods. The concentration at which mannosyl erythritol lipid is blended is appropriately selected depending on the degree of absorption, the degree of action, the product form, the frequency of use, etc., and is not particularly limited. The preferable content in the cosmetic is preferably 0.001 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.

<3> Sucrose fatty acid ester of the present invention The vesicle of the present invention is characterized by containing a sucrose fatty acid ester. As the sucrose fatty acid ester, one having 1 to 2 acyl groups is preferable. The acyl group preferably has 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably has 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The acyl group is preferably aliphatic, and can be unsaturated if it is aliphatic. Preferable specific examples of such sucrose fatty acid esters include, for example, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose dimyristate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose diester Examples include palmitic acid ester, sucrose monostearic acid ester, sucrose distearic acid ester, sucrose monoisostearic acid ester, sucrose diisostearic acid ester, sucrose monooleic acid ester, and sucrose dioleic acid ester. Then, sucrose monolaurate is particularly preferable. Such a sucrose fatty acid ester may contain only one species, or may contain two or more species in combination. The preferable content of the sucrose fatty acid ester is preferably 0.0001 to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.

<4> Composition for external use of skin of this invention The composition for external use of skin of this invention contains the said essential component. The external composition for skin referred to in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is externally administered to the skin. For example, cosmetics including quasi-drugs, skin external goods and the like can be suitably exemplified. Of these, cosmetics are particularly preferred. In particular, it is particularly preferable to apply to a cosmetic for maintaining skin moisture retention. In addition, the external composition for skin of the present invention can take any of the conventionally known lotion dosage forms, emulsion dosage forms, essence dosage forms, cream dosage forms, and powder-containing dosage forms. As the cosmetic, any of basic cosmetics, hair cosmetics, and makeup cosmetics can be applied, but it is particularly preferable to apply to basic cosmetics.

In the composition for external use of the skin of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, optional components usually used in cosmetics and external preparations for skin can be contained. Examples of such optional ingredients include macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, liquid lanolin, and hardened coconut oil. Oil, wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, pristane, ozokerite, paraffin, ceresin, petrolatum, oil, wax, liquid wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, bean wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, ibotarou, lanolin, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, jojoba wax , Hydrocarbons such as microcrystalline wax, higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, undecylenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl Alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, higher alcohol such as myristyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc., cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, malic acid Diisostearyl, di-2-ethylhexanoic acid ethylene glycol, dicaprate neopentyl glycol, di-2-heptylundecanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid trimethylolpropane, tri Synthetic ester oils such as trimethylolpropane isostearate and pentane erythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpoly Loxane, linear polysiloxane such as diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic polysiloxane such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane, amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, Oil agents such as silicone oil such as modified polysiloxane such as fluorine-modified polysiloxane, anionic surfactants such as fatty acid soap (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), potassium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine ether of alkyl sulfate, chloride Cationic surfactants such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, laurylamine oxide, betaine surfactants (alkyl betaines, amide betaines) , Sulfobetaine, etc.), imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt, etc.), amphoteric surfactants such as acylmethyltaurine, sorbitan fatty acid esters (Sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, etc.), glycerin fatty acids (glyceryl monostearate, etc.), propylene glycol fatty acid esters (propylene glycol monostearate, etc.), hardened castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ether, POE sorbitan Fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polystearic acid polyoxyethylene sorbitan, etc.), POE sorbite fatty acid esters (POE-sorbite monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid Esters (POE-glycerol monoisostearate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkylphenyl ethers (POE nonylphenyl) Ethers, etc.), Pluronic types, POE / POP alkyl ethers (POE / POP2-decyltetradecyl ether, etc.), Tetronics, POE castor oil / hardened castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hardened castor oil, etc.), Nonionic surfactants such as alkyl glucoside, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene glycol, dipropiate Polyhydric alcohols such as lenglycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4-hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, lactic acid , Moisturizing ingredients such as sodium lactate, guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, pectin, mannan, starch, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate , Glycogen, heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, gum tragacanth, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl gua Carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, keratosulfuric acid, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, caronic acid, chitin, chitosan, carboxymethylchitin, agar, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacryl Thickeners such as sodium acid, polyethylene glycol, bentonite, surface may be treated, mica, talc, kaolin, synthetic mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, anhydrous silicic acid (silica), aluminum oxide, barium sulfate, etc. Powders, the surface may be treated, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, titanium oxide, zinc oxide inorganic pigments, the surface may be treated, Mica titanium, fish phosphorus foil Pearl agent such as bismuth oxychloride, red 202, red 228, red 226, yellow 4, blue 404, yellow 5, red 505, red 230, red 223 which may be raked No., Orange No. 201, Red No. 213, Yellow No. 204, Yellow No. 203, Blue No. 1, Green No. 201, Purple No. 201, Red No. 204 and other organic pigments, polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon powder, Organic powders such as organopolysiloxane elastomers, paraaminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, benzophenone UV absorbers, sugar UV absorbers 2- (2′-hydroxy-5′-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 4-methoxy-4′-t-butyldiben Ultraviolet absorbers such as Irumetan, ethanol, lower alcohols such as isopropanol, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B ₆ hydrochloride, vitamin B ₆ tripalmitate, vitamin B ₆ dioctanoate, vitamin B ₂ or derivatives thereof, vitamin B ₁₂ , vitamin B ₁₅ such as vitamin B ₁₅ or a derivative thereof, α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, vitamin E such as vitamin E acetate, vitamin D, vitamin H, pantothenic acid, panthetin, pyrroloquinoline quinone And the like are preferably exemplified.

Furthermore, if necessary, blending a water-soluble polymer can also be exemplified as a preferred embodiment. Examples of such a polymer include an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer and / or a salt thereof. As such an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, there are commercially available ones, and such commercially available products can be used. Among the commercially available products, preferred are carbopol 1382, pemilen TR-1, and pemilen TR-2 manufactured by BFGoodrich. The blending amount of such a compound in the external composition for skin is preferably 0.01 to 0.5% by mass.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but it is needless to say that the present invention is not limited to such examples.

<Production of the lotion of the present invention>
Lotions were made according to the formulation shown in Table 1. That is, each component of (a) was dissolved by heating at 80 ° C., the mixture of (b) was added, and the mixture was stirred with a homomixer at a rotation speed of 8000 rpm for 10 minutes. Furthermore, in the lotion of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which the ratio of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester was changed were prepared at the same time. Comparative Example 1 does not contain a sucrose fatty acid ester.

<Production of emulsion of the present invention>
In accordance with the formulation shown in Table 2, an emulsion (Example 3), which is an external composition for skin of the present invention, was prepared. That is, each component of (A) and (B) was heated and dissolved at 75 ° C., and the mixture of (B) was added to the mixture of (A) and stirred to emulsify. Thereafter, the mixture of (C) heated to 75 ° C. was added and stirred to obtain an emulsion (I). Further, the mixture of (D) was dissolved by heating at 80 ° C., and (E) was added while stirring with a homomixer at a rotation speed of 8000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a solubilizate (B). Finally, the solubilized product (b) was added to the emulsified product (a) while stirring, and the mixture was stirred and cooled to room temperature to obtain an emulsion.

<Test Example 1 Evaluation of Vesicle State>
The vesicle state was evaluated by observation with a polarizing microscope and visual observation. First, as shown in Table 3, as a result of observation with a polarizing microscope, mosaic images derived from a bilayer structure such as a plate lamella or a vesicle were observed in all Examples and Comparative Examples. On the other hand, as a result of visual observation, gels specific to the flat lamella state were observed in Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Example 5. The appearance of Example 4 is shown in FIG. In Comparative Examples 3, 4, and 6, separation of the transparent phase was confirmed by standing in a liquid state for several hours. The appearance of Comparative Example 3 is shown in FIG. From this result, by making the mass ratio of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester 9: 1 to 8: 2, the total amount of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is less than 65% by mass (water content 35% by mass). However, it was revealed that a vesicle that changes from a vesicle state to a flat lamella state can be formed.

<Test Example 2 Skin moisture transpiration suppression test>
The test was conducted in a room at 20 ° C. and 50% relative humidity for five panelists. The measurement site was washed with warm water at 37 ° C. for 30 seconds, allowed to rest for 20 minutes, and then measured. For the skin on the inner side of the forearm, the skin moisture content of the test site is measured in advance with SKICON-200EX (IBS) on the day before the scheduled test date (-1 day). Thereafter, gauze impregnated with acetone (2 cm × 2 cm) was contacted for 30 minutes. On the next day (day 0), the skin moisture content was measured with SKICON-200EX, and then the test sample prepared in Example 1 was applied. The test sample was applied three times a day. The skin moisture content was measured again 1 day and 2 days after application. At the same time, the test samples of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and the untreated control test without application of the test sample were also performed. The evaluation results are shown in Table 4.

<Test Example 3 Observation of lamellar structure in lower layer of stratum corneum>
For the cultured skin Epiderm EPI-200 (manufactured by Mattek) for 1 hour (37 ° C.) in an incubator, 200 μL of acetone was applied to the stratum corneum, shaken for 5 minutes, and then removed 2 A dry skin model was prepared by repeating the process once. The test sample of Example 1 was applied to the stratum corneum side of this dry skin model, incubated for 3 hours, dried on the culture for 3 hours, stained with ruthenium, and observed with TEM. As a result, a lamellar structure was observed in the lower layer of the stratum corneum of the dry skin model to which the test sample of Example 1 was applied. The observation results are shown in FIG. In addition, when the test sample of Example 1 was not applied, no lamellar structure was observed in the lower layer portion of the horny layer of the dry skin model. The observation results are shown in FIG.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can be applied to an external composition for skin which can restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids while maintaining the effect on skin of mannosyl erythritol lipid, and can greatly improve the stratum corneum barrier function.

It is an external appearance of Example 4. It is an external appearance of the comparative example 3. It is a TEM image of the stratum corneum lower layer part of the dry skin model which administered the test sample of Example 1. FIG. It is a TEM image of the stratum corneum lower layer part of the dry skin model which did not administer the test sample of Example 1. FIG.

Claims (4)

A composition for external use on skin, comprising a vesicle comprising a mannosylerythritol lipid having a structure represented by the following general formula (1) and a sucrose fatty acid ester.
However, R < ₁ >, R < ₂ > represents a C6-C20 acyl group. R ₃ and R ₄ represent an acetyl group or hydrogen. The composition for external use of the skin according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is 9: 1 to 8: 2. The composition for external use on skin according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of mannosyl erythritol lipid and sucrose fatty acid ester is less than 65 mass%, and the vesicle changes from a vesicle state to a flat lamella state. The agent for improving the horny layer of any one of claims 1 to 3, which improves the lamellar structure of the lower layer of the horny layer of skin.