JP2011012379A - Dyeing method utilizing persimmon-dyed fabric - Google Patents

Dyeing method utilizing persimmon-dyed fabric Download PDF

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JP2011012379A
JP2011012379A JP2009215848A JP2009215848A JP2011012379A JP 2011012379 A JP2011012379 A JP 2011012379A JP 2009215848 A JP2009215848 A JP 2009215848A JP 2009215848 A JP2009215848 A JP 2009215848A JP 2011012379 A JP2011012379 A JP 2011012379A
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persimmon
dyeing
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soaking
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Soo Man Choi
ソーマン チョイ
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/34General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09BORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
    • C09B61/00Dyes of natural origin prepared from natural sources, e.g. vegetable sources

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a dyeing method utilizing a persimmon-dyed fabric.SOLUTION: The dyeing method includes: a step S10 of rinsing natural fibers with hot water to soften them; a step S20 of conducting a primary persimmon-tanning color development by soaking the to-be-dyed natural fibers in a persimmon-tanning dyeing solution extracted from unripe persimmons, and then by exposing to sunlight and drying them; a step S30 of soaking the natural fibers in an indigo dyeing solution, repeating oxidation-color-development twice by exposing them to the air, and then soaking them in a vinegar-diluted water followed by rinsing; a step S40 of soaking the natural fibers in the persimmon-tanning dyeing solution followed by drying for conducting a secondary persimmon-tanning color development, and then soaking in a gardenia- or cochineal-dyeing solution, rubbing, soaking in an alum solution, and rinsing them until getting clean water, and then exposing them to the sunlight for drying; and a step S50 of conducting a tertiary persimmon-tanning color development by soaking them in the persimmon-tanning dyeing solution followed by exposure to the sunlight. Thereby, the persimmon-dyed fabric developed in natural and diversified colors can be obtained.

Description

本発明は、柿染色布を利用した染色方法に係り、さらに詳細には、柿渋で染色した柿染色布に、天然植物材料であるアイ、クチナシ、コチニールを染色剤として天然染色を行って、自然でかつ多様な色を発現させることができ、通風性の良好な天然繊維を得ることができる柿染色布を利用した染色方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a dyeing method using an amber dyed cloth, and more specifically, natural dyeing is carried out on an amber dyed cloth dyed with amber astringency using natural plant materials Ai, Gardenia, and Cochineal as a dyeing agent. In addition, the present invention relates to a dyeing method using a koji-dyed cloth that can express natural fibers with various colors and good ventilation.

一般的に、柿渋を利用した染色は、柿服という名称で済州島を中心にした伝統工芸染色の一つであって、青柿から得た柿汁を繊維に沈積させた後、数週ないし数ヶ月にわたって日光に露出させて発色させることによって染物を得る。
そして、柿染色布は、前記柿渋の染色方法を利用して、天然原緞に柿渋を染色して乾燥させる過程を繰り返すことによって茶色に発色させた布を言う。
In general, dyeing using strawberry astringent is one of the traditional craft dyeings named Jeju and centered on Jeju Island. A dyed product is obtained by developing the color by exposure to sunlight for months.
The koji-dyed cloth refers to a cloth that is colored brown by repeating the process of dyeing and drying koji astringent on a natural raw koji using the method for dyeing koji astringent.

前記のような柿渋染色における発色過程は、青柿中のタンニン成分が繊維に染着され、日光のエネルギーによってタンニン分子がゆっくり高分子化することによって赤褐色に発色する。
タンニン成分で染色すれば、布の通気性が良く、色が長く維持され、湿気に強くなるため、海岸や島嶼地方では網や作業服に柿渋を染色して使用する。
In the color development process in the amber astringent dyeing as described above, the tannin component in the blue cocoon is dyed on the fiber, and the tannin molecule is slowly polymerized by the energy of sunlight, thereby producing a reddish brown color.
Dyeing with a tannin component will improve the breathability of the fabric, maintain the color for a long time, and become resistant to moisture.

ところが、日光に露出させる時間が長ければ長いほど、タンニンの分子量が次第に大きくなり、色が深色化するため、所望の色の繊維を得るには長期間がかかるだけでなく、大量の労動力が必要である。   However, the longer the time of exposure to sunlight, the higher the molecular weight of tannin and the deeper the color, so it takes a long time to obtain fibers of the desired color as well as a large amount of labor. is required.

また、柿渋染色の短所は、タンニンの成分が最も多いとき、すなわち、青柿であるときに染材を採取せねばならなく、染色から発色までは長期間がかかるが、発色の途中に雨が降るときには日光が不十分であるため発色しない。また、発色する色が茶色系に限定され、天然物であるため、内部に残存する酵素によって醗酵または腐敗してしまって染みが生じ、したがって、所望する多様かつ美麗な天然色を得ることができないという問題点がある。   In addition, the disadvantage of strawberry astringency dyeing is that when the tannin component is the most, that is, when it is blue candy, it is necessary to collect the dyeing material, and it takes a long time from dyeing to coloring, but it rains in the middle of coloring Sometimes the color does not develop due to insufficient sunlight. In addition, since the color to be developed is limited to a brown color and is a natural product, it can be fermented or spoiled by the enzyme remaining in the interior, resulting in a stain, and thus the desired diverse and beautiful natural color cannot be obtained. There is a problem.

本発明は、前記問題点を解決するためになされたものであって、柿渋染色を行った柿染色布に、天然植物材料であるアイ、クチナシ、コチニールを染色剤として自然で美麗かつ多様な色を発現させることができる天然染色方法を提供することを目的とする。   The present invention has been made in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, and the natural, beautiful, and various colors are obtained by using natural plant materials such as eye, gardenia, and cochineal as a dyeing agent on an amber-dyed cloth that has been dyed with amber. It is an object of the present invention to provide a natural staining method capable of expressing

請求項1に記載の発明によると、前記の目的を達成するための本発明に係る柿染色布を利用した染色方法は、天然繊維を温水で濯いで軟らかくするステップと、青柿から抽出された柿渋染液に、染色しようとする天然繊維を浸漬して日光に露出及び乾燥させつつ第1次柿渋発色を行うステップと、アイ染液に前記天然繊維を浸漬した後、空気に露出させる酸化発色を2回繰り返して行い、酢を希薄させた水に浸漬した後に濯ぐステップと、柿渋染液に浸漬した後に乾燥させて第2次柿渋発色を行い、次いでクチナシまたはコチニール染液に浸漬して天然繊維を揉んだ後、ミョウバン溶液に浸漬して清い水が出るまで濯ぎ、その後、日光に露出させて乾燥させるステップと、柿渋染液に浸漬した後に日光に露出させて第3次柿渋発色を行うステップと、を含むことを特徴とする。   According to the first aspect of the present invention, a dyeing method using the koji dyed cloth according to the present invention for achieving the above object includes a step of rinsing natural fibers with warm water to soften, and a koji astringent extracted from the blue koji. A step of performing the first tanned color development while immersing the natural fiber to be dyed in the dyeing solution and exposing and drying to sunlight, and an oxidative coloring to be exposed to the air after immersing the natural fiber in the eye dyeing solution. Repeated twice, soaked in water diluted with vinegar, rinsed after being dipped in persimmon astringent dyeing, dried to give the second persimmon astringent coloring, then dipped in gardenia or cochineal dyeing liquid After kneading the fibers, immerse them in alum solution until clean water comes out, then expose them to sunlight and dry them, and then immerse them in persimmon astringent liquor and expose them to sunlight to perform the third astringent color development Ste Characterized in that it comprises a flop, a.

また、請求項2に記載の発明によると、本発明に係る柿染色布を利用した染色方法において、前記第1次、第2次、第3次柿渋発色を行うステップで日光で乾燥させて発色させる時間は3日ないし4日間であることを特徴とする。   According to the invention described in claim 2, in the dyeing method using the koji-dyed cloth according to the present invention, the first, second, and third koji coloring colors are dried by sunlight in the step of coloring. The duration is 3 to 4 days.

また、請求項3に記載の発明によると、本発明に係る柿染色布を利用した染色方法において、前記酸化発色を行うステップでアイ染液に浸漬する時間は30分以上、第2次柿渋発色後にクチナシまたはコチニール染液に浸漬する時間は10分以上であることを特徴にする。
According to the invention described in claim 3, in the dyeing method using the koji dyeing cloth according to the present invention, the time to immerse in the eye dyeing solution in the step of performing the oxidative coloring is not less than 30 minutes, and the second koji coloring The time for subsequent immersion in gardenia or cochineal dyeing is characterized by being 10 minutes or longer.

本発明に係る柿染色布を利用した染色方法によれば、茶色系の色を有する柿染色布に天然染色材料を加えることによって、自然で美麗かつ多様な色を発現させることができる。   According to the dyeing method using the koji dyeing cloth according to the present invention, natural, beautiful and diverse colors can be developed by adding a natural dyeing material to the koji dyeing cloth having a brown color.

本発明の一実施形態に係る柿染色布を利用した染色過程を示すフローチャートである。It is a flowchart which shows the dyeing | staining process using the koji dyeing cloth which concerns on one Embodiment of this invention.

以下、添付図面を参照して、図面に示す実施形態についてさらに詳細に説明する。
図1は、本発明の一実施形態に係る柿染色布を利用した染色過程を示すフローチャートである。
図1に示すように、本発明の一実施形態に係る柿染色布を利用した染色方法は、天然繊維の軟化ステップ(S10)、第1次柿渋発色ステップ(S20)、酸化発色ステップ(S30)、第2次柿渋発色後の天然染色ステップ(S40)、第3次柿渋発色ステップ(S50)の順に行うことができる。
Hereinafter, embodiments shown in the drawings will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 1 is a flowchart showing a dyeing process using a wrinkle dyeing cloth according to an embodiment of the present invention.
As shown in FIG. 1, the dyeing method using the koji dyed cloth according to one embodiment of the present invention includes a natural fiber softening step (S10), a first koji astringent coloring step (S20), and an oxidation coloring step (S30). A natural dyeing step (S40) after the second amber astringency coloring step and a third amber astringency coloring step (S50) can be performed in this order.

前記天然繊維の軟化ステップ(S10)は、染色原緞に柿渋を染色する前に、染色原緞である天然繊維を温水で濯いで糊気を除去することによって天然繊維を柔らかくするステップである。
前記天然繊維が軟化ステップで柔らかくなれば、次に行う柿渋染色及び天然染色ステップで染液をさらに多く吸収することができる。
The natural fiber softening step (S10) is a step of softening the natural fiber by rinsing the natural fiber, which is the dyeing raw silkworm, with warm water before dyeing the persimmon on the dyeing raw silkworm.
If the natural fiber is softened in the softening step, more dyeing liquid can be absorbed in the subsequent persimmon astringent dyeing and natural dyeing steps.

次いで、柿渋染液に前記軟化された天然繊維をよく揉んで日光に3日ないし4日間発色させる第1次柿渋発色ステップを行う(S20)。
柿渋の抽出方法は、柿汁から抽出する方法と、柿の葉の汁から抽出する方法とに分けられる。
Next, a first strawberry astringent coloring step is performed in which the softened natural fiber is thoroughly dipped in the strawberry astringent dyeing solution and the sunlight is colored for 3 to 4 days (S20).
The extraction method of persimmon astringent is divided into a method of extracting from persimmon juice and a method of extracting from persimmon leaf juice.

まず、柿汁から柿渋染液を抽出する方法は、地域によって時期の差は多少あるが、7月初旬頃から7月末頃までの柿を利用するが、タンニン成分がなくなる前までの青柿から柿渋を抽出する。
柿は、熟れが足りない青柿に糊付けの効果があり、異物が付きにくいだけでなく、夏にも凉しい。
柿があまりにも熟れれば、渋味がなくなって染色するには良くないため、採取した柿は採取当日に汁を出して使用することが好ましい。
柿渋染液は、採取した柿を臼、ミキサーまたは大型の食品ミキサーで粉砕して、麻布または綿袋に入れて汁を出して抽出する。
First of all, the method of extracting persimmon juice from persimmon juice varies slightly depending on the region, but it uses persimmon from the beginning of July to the end of July, but from the persimmon until the end of the tannin component. To extract.
The koji has a gluing effect on the unripe blue koji, which is not only difficult to get foreign objects, but also good in summer.
If the koji is too ripe, the astringency is lost and it is not good for dyeing. Therefore, it is preferable to use the collected koji after taking out the juice on the day of collection.
The strawberry astringent dyeing liquid is extracted by pulverizing the collected buds with a mortar, a mixer or a large food mixer, putting them in a linen or cotton bag and taking out the juice.

一方、柿の葉の汁から柿渋染色を抽出する場合には、柿の葉を千切りして粉砕して麻布袋または綿袋に入れて汁を出して柿渋染液を抽出する。   On the other hand, when extracting persimmon astringency from persimmon leaf juice, the persimmon leaves are shredded and crushed and placed in a linen or cotton bag to extract the persimmon astringent dyeing solution.

本発明の一実施形態で、柿渋染液は、天然繊維からなる染色原緞5ヤードに柿渋染液を約1.8リットル染色し、日光で3ないし4日間乾燥させつつ第1次柿渋発色を行えば、天然繊維は柿染色布になる。   In an embodiment of the present invention, the persimmon astringent dyeing solution dyes about 1.8 liters of the persimmon astringent dyeing solution on 5 yards of a natural fiber made of natural fiber, and is dried in sunlight for 3 to 4 days while producing the first persimmon astringency coloring. If done, the natural fibers will become an amber-dyed fabric.

次いで、前記第1次柿渋発色した柿染色布をアイ染液に約30分間浸漬して空気に露出させて酸化発色を2回繰り返して行い、酢を希釈させた水に約10分間浸漬して濯ぐ(S30)。   Next, the first tanned amber colored cloth is immersed in the eye dyeing solution for about 30 minutes, exposed to air, and oxidative coloring is repeated twice, and then immersed in water diluted with vinegar for about 10 minutes. Rinse (S30).

このとき、アイ染液は、前記染色原緞である柿染色布5ヤードに、アイを乾燥させたアイ粉250gを水にこねて準備する。
前記のアイ染液は、原緞を青色系に発色させるものであって、発色する濃度によって前記アイ粉250gに混合する水の量は1.8リットルから18リットルまで多様に選択することができる。
At this time, the eye dyeing solution is prepared by kneading 250 g of eye powder obtained by drying the eye into water on 5 yards of the koji dyeing cloth which is the dyeing base.
The eye dye liquid is used to color the raw koji into a blue color, and the amount of water mixed into the eye powder 250 g can be selected from 1.8 liters to 18 liters depending on the color density. .

次いで、前記酸化発色した柿染色布をS20と同様に柿渋染液に浸漬した後、日光で3日ないし4日間乾燥させて第2次柿渋発色させた後、クチナシまたはコチニール染液で約10分間揉んでミョウバン溶液に約5分間浸漬してから取り出し、清い水が出るまで濯いだ後、日光で十分に乾燥させて天然染色処理を行う(S40)。   Then, the oxidatively colored candy-dyed fabric was dipped in strawberry astringent dyeing solution in the same manner as S20, and then dried with sunlight for 3 to 4 days to give a second strawberry astringent coloring solution, and then with gardenia or cochineal dyeing solution for about 10 minutes. Knead and soak in an alum solution for about 5 minutes, then remove it, rinse it until clear water comes out, and then dry it thoroughly with sunlight to perform natural dyeing (S40).

前記天然染色ステップで使用される染色材料であるクチナシは、原緞を黄色系の色に発色させるものであって、乾燥したクチナシの実100gを水に入れて沸かして煎じ出すことによってクチナシ染液を準備するが、発色する濃度によって混合する水の量は1.8リットルから18リットルまで多様に選択することができる。   Gardenia, which is a dyeing material used in the natural dyeing step, develops the raw koji into a yellowish color. The gardenia dyeing solution is obtained by boiling 100 g of dried gardenia fruit in water and decocting it. The amount of water to be mixed can be variously selected from 1.8 liters to 18 liters depending on the color density.

また、前記コチニールは、サボテンに寄生する虫の一種であって、乾燥したコチニール100gを水と混合して沸かして煎じ出することによってコチニール染液を準備するが、発色する濃度によって混合する水の量は1.8リットルから18リットルまで多様に選択することができる。   The cochineal is a kind of insect that parasitizes cacti, and a cochineal dyeing solution is prepared by mixing 100 g of dried cochineal with water, boiling and decocting it. The amount can be selected from 1.8 liters to 18 liters.

前記天然染色ステップで天然染色材料によってさらに良好に発色させるために、天然材料染液で浸漬した柿染色布をミョウバン溶液に約5分間浸漬するが、前記ミョウバン溶液はミョウバン50gと水5リットルとを混合して準備する。   In order to develop a better color with the natural dyeing material in the natural dyeing step, the koji dyed cloth soaked with the natural material dyeing solution is dipped in the alum solution for about 5 minutes. The alum solution contains 50 g of alum and 5 liters of water. Prepare by mixing.

次いで、前記天然染色ステップを経た柿染色布に、S20と同様に再度柿渋染液に浸漬した後、日光で3日ないし4日間乾燥させて第3次柿渋発色させることによって多様かつ自然な色を柿染色布に発色させる(S50)。   Next, after dipping in the amber dyeing solution again in the same manner as S20 on the amber dyed cloth that has undergone the natural dyeing step, it is dried in sunlight for 3 to 4 days to produce a third amber astringent color, thereby producing various and natural colors. Color is developed on the candy-dyed cloth (S50).

以上、本発明は、記載された具体的な実施形態についてのみ詳細に説明したが、本発明の技術的思想の範囲内で多様な変形及び修正が可能であるということは当業者にとっては明らかであり、このような変形及び修正が特許請求の範囲に属するということは言うまでもない。   Although the present invention has been described in detail only for the specific embodiments described above, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and changes can be made within the scope of the technical idea of the present invention. It goes without saying that such variations and modifications belong to the scope of the claims.

Claims (3)

天然繊維を温水で濯いで軟らかくするステップと、
青柿から抽出された柿渋染液に、染色しようとする天然繊維を浸漬して日光に露出及び乾燥させつつ第1次柿渋発色を行うステップと、
アイ染液に前記天然繊維を浸漬した後、空気に露出させる酸化発色を2回繰り返して行い、酢を希薄させた水に浸漬した後に濯ぐステップと、
柿渋染液に浸漬した後に乾燥させて第2次柿渋発色を行い、次いでクチナシまたはコチニール染液に浸漬して天然繊維を揉んだ後、ミョウバン溶液に浸漬して清い水が出るまで濯ぎ、その後、日光に露出させて乾燥させるステップと、
柿渋染液に浸漬した後に日光に露出させて第3次柿渋発色を行うステップと、を含むことを特徴とする柿染色布を利用した染色方法。
Rinsing natural fibers with warm water to soften them,
Immersing the natural fiber to be dyed in the persimmon astringent liquid extracted from the green persimmon and performing the first persimmon color development while being exposed to sunlight and dried;
After immersing the natural fiber in the eye dye solution, performing oxidative color development exposed to air twice, rinsing after immersing in water diluted with vinegar, and
After dipping in persimmon astringent solution and drying, the second persimmon color development is performed, and then dipped in gardenia or cochineal dyeing solution to knead natural fibers, then immersed in alum solution and rinsed until clear water comes out, then Exposing to sunlight and drying;
And a step of performing a third amber color development after being immersed in an amber astringent dyeing solution and exposing to sunlight.
前記第1次、第2次、第3次柿渋発色を行うステップで日光で乾燥させて発色させる時間は3日ないし4日間であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の柿染色布を利用した染色方法。   2. The kite-dyed cloth according to claim 1, wherein the first, second, and third kite coloring steps are performed for 3 days to 4 days after being dried with sunlight. Dyeing method. 前記酸化発色を行うステップでアイ染液に浸漬する時間は30分以上、第2次柿渋発色後にクチナシまたはコチニール染液に浸漬する時間は10分以上であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の柿染色布を利用した染色方法。   The immersion time in the eye dyeing solution in the step of performing the oxidative coloring is 30 minutes or more, and the immersion time in the gardenia or cochineal dyeing solution is 10 minutes or more after the second strawberry astringency coloring. Dyeing method using cocoon dyeing cloth.
JP2009215848A 2009-07-03 2009-09-17 Dyeing method utilizing persimmon-dyed fabric Pending JP2011012379A (en)

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