JP2007535543A - Natural quick-drying hair fixing composition - Google Patents

Abstract

  The present invention is a combination of linear polysaccharides such as pullulan and an amount of a monohydric alcohol. The monohydric alcohol is present in an amount that improves the drying time such that the drying time decreases as the alcohol increases. Pullulan is used as a hair fixative and a wetting agent can be added to the hair fixative composition of the present invention.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to naturally occurring linear polysaccharides and their use in natural hair care products. In particular, the present invention relates to a quick-drying hair styling composition comprising pullulan as a hair fixative for keratin surfaces.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION After styling hair into a particular hairstyle, the ability to retain the hairstyle is next important. In order for a hairspray or hair fixative composition to retain hair, an effective hairspray formulation and the film-forming resin contained therein must meet certain properties. Specifically, the film-forming resin remains non-tacky in a humid environment, but must be easily removed using a soap solution, such as a shampoo. The membrane must have high hair adhesion and be strong and elastic enough to prevent the powder from falling off or flaking off when the hair is subjected to pressure with a comb or brush. I must. Moreover, the resin must remain bright and transparent and glossy as it ages. The film-forming resin must have a viscosity range that allows spraying without clogging the nozzle and is not too thin as a liquid. The resin must also tend to interact little or not at all with other optional ingredients typically used in perfume or hair spray formulations.

  Early hair fixative compositions contained shellac, which is a natural resinous material derived from the secretions of the insect Laccifer lacca, forming a water insoluble film on the hair. Thus shellac had to be solubilized for use in aqueous systems. Thus, shellac was not washed out of the hair relatively easily as desired for hair fixatives. To remedy this problem, synthetic polymers have been developed and incorporated into hair fixative compositions. Specifically, polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) was introduced. PVP is a water-soluble substance that adheres well to the hair and produces a transparent flexible film on the hair surface. Much like shellac, PVP as a pure homopolymer had drawbacks as a fixative. Its hygroscopicity caused it to absorb moisture in the air and become sticky on the hair. This therefore prompted a next generation PVP copolymer, such as PVP vinyl acetate (PVP-VA). Synthetic polymer development continues, but efforts in this regard do not meet the increasing demand for the use of natural ingredients in personal care products, including hair care products. Further interest is the failure to achieve a smooth uniform film on the hair shaft, poor curl retention due to lumps formed in place of the smooth film, the phenomenon of resin particle dusting-off, and these This relates to the electrostatic charge experienced with conventional hair fixatives of this type.

  In addition to improving the quality of the film-forming resin, there has been a growing desire for natural ingredients and natural products. One natural film forming material proposed as a film forming agent is the xanthan gum disclosed in US Patent Application Publication No. 2003/0108505 A1. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide gum derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas, which has a backbone containing β- (1,4) D-glucose units, which can be used with other hair fixatives It is said to be advantageous as a fixative in hair compositions because it is capable of providing rheology modifying properties. Other advantageous properties mentioned in connection with xanthan gum are: stiffness, gloss, dry comb, wet comb, non-peeling, static Prevention, touch and curl retention at high humidity. However, some of these characteristics are somewhat inconsistent. Rigid polymers are generally poorly flexible, and poor flexibility increases the flaking of flakes. There are certain known drawbacks associated with using xanthan, which are lack of transparency, high viscosity, retention performance and brittleness. High viscosity is also associated with spraying difficulties. Some of these drawbacks are the result of the presence of highly branched structures or side chains. Examples of other more common natural polymers are chitosan (derived from the polysaccharide chitin), alginate, gelatin, pectin, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, starch or gar gum are known, but the packaging properties of the polymer Including highly branched structures or side chains that can greatly limit Another example of a natural fixative is pullulan. Unlike xanthan (the polymer disclosed in patent 2003/0108505), pullulan is a linear high molecular weight homopolysaccharide of glucose with a unique binding pattern. Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it appears that its linear structure is responsible for many of its favorable properties. Pullulan and its glucose units are completely different in molecular structure from chitosan, starch, cellulose, amylose, cellulose and similar polysaccharides or derivatives (also glucose derivatives). Differences in molecular structure between pullulan and other polymers are indicated by different properties between pullulan and other glucose unit-containing polymers.

  Pullulan is produced as a water-soluble extracellular polysaccharide by some strains of polymorphs such as Aureobasidium pullulans or Dematium pullulans, becoming well known for its adhesive properties, and from a breath mint strip Used for various products ranging from compression molding. Pullulan is known to be an excellent film forming agent and can be processed into a strong film that can be transparent. Its use in hair products such as setting lotions and hair lacquers is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,972,997 as a sticky ingredient having the ability to form a transparent film. The membrane is made by releasing the pullulan solution and drying. The pullulan film is soluble in water (including cold water), glossy, transparent, tough, and heat-sealing. Pullulan adhesion is manifested by the addition of water.

  Achieving the properties of membrane fixatives in hair compositions can provide a great job. The introduction of water into the hair fixative composition can adversely affect the performance of the composition. Water also has the disadvantage of increasing the drying time of the hair styling composition after application to the hair when compared to hair styling compositions containing higher concentrations of VOCs. Water can also adversely affect the properties of the hair fixative resin. For example, if the hair fixative resin is water soluble, water can cause the composition to have a high viscosity (above 15 centipoise), reducing the sprayability of the hair styling composition and clogging the spray nozzle. Accordingly, the object of the present invention is to provide natural, water-based hair care products that meet the desired properties of applicability, retention, adhesion, transparency and cleanability and overcome the challenges in formulating fast-drying hair fixative compositions. Incorporating pullulan as a hair fixative.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a hair fixative composition comprising as a fixative, pullulan, a linear polysaccharide having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 5,000,000. Pullulan is a linear and unbranched polysaccharide. That is, this polysaccharide has no side chain. The fixative is present in the hair composition in an amount of about 0.5 to 15% by weight of the composition. This hair composition has a reduced drying time. Pullulan is present in an aqueous alcohol solvent system containing an amount of monohydric alcohol effective to reduce the drying time of the hair fixative composition. Specifically, the monohydric alcohol is present in an amount of about 15-35% by weight of the composition. Pullulan, a linear polysaccharide, provides a strong yet thin film on hair that acts as a hair fixative without having many of the disadvantages of conventional performance. Moreover, the hair composition of the present invention comprising pullulan as a hair fixative has the advantage of being quick-drying. This is a surprising and unexpected result observed with increased amounts of ethanol in the hydroalcoholic system.

  For example, the water / alcohol combination of the present invention has the effect of reducing the drying time as well as sprayability problems of the hair fixative composition compared to other hair fixative compositions. Because of the inherent chemical and mechanical properties of pullulan, no additional plasticizer is required. In addition, pullulan membranes are limited to environmental factors such as cigarette smoke, carbon monoxide, oxygen free radicals and other pullulan air transmission sources due to their limited permeability to oxygen and other gases. Give enhanced hair protection. The invention also relates to a method for producing a composition comprising pullulan and a method for setting the hair and reducing the drying time of the hair fixative composition.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The presence of linear polysaccharides in the hair composition of the present invention provides a strong yet thin film that can act as a fixative. Besides forming a strong film, the pullulan, a linear polysaccharide, has high adhesive strength and good water solubility. The hydroxyl group in the pullulan repeat unit provides excellent water solubility and therefore does not need to form a salt to achieve solubilization. Since this polymer is completely soluble in water, the film formed on the surface of the hair shaft is easily removed with soap, especially shampoo. The film obtained on the hair shaft is also not peeled off into flakes or fallen off as a powder when combing force is applied. Moreover, the hair fixative composition of the present invention does not contain heavy metals or cross-linking components, catalysts or complexes. As a single hair fixative, pullulan forms a strong yet flexible film on the hair, thus the composition of the present invention can be developed as a 100% natural hair fixative composition. Furthermore, pullulan can be used in the present invention as a hair fixative without the use of lacquers (eg natural products such as shellac).

  Pullulan is said to be completely water soluble but insoluble in most organic compounds. Surprisingly, stable pullulan formulations were made containing various water / alcohol solvent combinations, including about 15-35% monohydric alcohol and water in an amount greater than about 50%. This not only minimizes the negative effects described above, but also improves the drying time of the hair fixative composition as the amount of monohydric alcohol is increased. Thus, the beneficial reduction in drying time is surprising, as the composition is stable as observed with increasing amounts of monohydric alcohol. As shown in Example III, the drying time decreases when the amount of ethanol in the composition containing pullulan is increased. Drying time is improved within a range of about 10-40% based on measurable parameters, percent weight loss. Furthermore, the hair fixative composition of the present invention is stable because no pullulan precipitate is found after at least 2 months.

  To produce the composition of the present invention, the powder form of pullulan is dissolved in water. Pullulan is available in powder form from Hayashibara Biochemical Laboratories, Inc. (Okayama, Japan). Other forms of pullulan can still be used in the present invention. The pullulan used in the composition of the present invention does not have a hydrophobic portion and has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to 5,000,000, preferably about 275,000 to 1,000,000. Pullulan is an alpha glucan containing mainly maltotriose as repeating units linearly linked by α- (1,6) glycosidic bonds. The pullulan is unbranched and, as used in the present invention, can include derivatives such as trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, cholesterol / HDI / pullulan copolymer, cholesteryl hexyl dicarbamate pullulan. The amount of pullulan used in the present invention is about 0.5-15% by weight of the composition, more preferably 5-10%. Although the final composition includes an aqueous alcohol solvent system, pullulan is initially made in an aqueous solution. Optional ingredients or additional hair fixative ingredients are added to the aqueous pullulan solution and mixed for approximately at least 30 minutes. Monohydric alcohol is added as a final component. Monohydric alcohols have boiling points below 100 ° C. The alcohol preferably has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and includes, for example, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, 2-butanol and the like. More preferably, the monohydric alcohol is ethanol.

  After the hair fixative composition is manufactured, it can be sprayed onto the hand and then applied to the hair or applied directly to the hair. The hair can be combed to ensure even coating, and can be dried and styled as usual. Application of the hair fixative composition of the present invention sets the hair in a particular style and retains the hairstyle. The hair fixative composition of the present invention can be removed by rinsing with water alone or with soap or shampoo.

  A wetting agent can be added as an optional component to the aqueous alcohol pullulan composition of the present invention. The wetting agent (or emulsifier) can be polysorbate 80 or any type of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactant compound, in particular fatty alcohol sulfate, fatty alcohol ether sulfate, alkyl-sulfonate, alkylbenzene sulfate, It can be a quaternary ammonium salt, an alkylbetaine, an ethoxylated alkylphenol, a fatty acid alkanolamide or an ethoxylated fatty acid ester. As disclosed in US2003 / 008221 A1, it is known to add a surfactant / emulsifier to a pullulan-containing composition to stabilize the composition and improve the spreadability of the composition to the skin. Yes. However, until now it has not been known to add humectants to the pullulan and hydroalcoholic solvent systems of the present invention having improved drying times as hair fixative compositions. The wetting agent is present in an amount of about 0.5-5.0% by weight of the composition.

  Only pullulan provides sufficient hair fixative properties, but can be used in combination with other additional hair fixatives, including but not limited to other polysaccharides, shellac, PVP, PVP / vinyl acetate copolymer, PVP / Acrylate copolymer, PVP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer, PVP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer, PVP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer, VA / butyl malate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer, VA / crotonate copolymer, acrylate / acrylamide copolymer, VA / Crotonate / vinyl propionate copolymer and polymeric cellulose. Other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, wetting agents, occulusives, sunscreens and UV absorbers, emollients, antistatic agents, fragrances and the like. Other additives include silicone and its derivatives, humidifiers, lubricants and penetrants such as lanolin compounds, fragrances and fragrances, antioxidants, anti-tacking agents, combing aids and conditioning agents, neutralization Agents, colorants, gloss modifiers, anti-dandruff agents, plasticizers, antibacterial agents, gloss formers, preservatives, proteins and their derivatives, amino acids, vitamins, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners and rheology modifiers, Gelling agents, opacifying agents, stabilizers, sequestering agents, chelating agents, aesthetic enhancers, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and triglycerides, plant extracts, plant-derived active ingredients, antioxidants, cleansing agents and hair care or Includes any other additive commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

  Furthermore, pullulan is also compatible with cationic conditioning agents such as cetrimonium chloride, polyquaternium 10, fatty amines, ethoxylated fatty amines, but conventional synthetic fixatives are not compatible. When these same conditioning agents are used together with conventional fixatives, a precipitate is formed.

  After the hair fixative composition is manufactured, it can be sprayed onto the hand and then applied to the hair or applied directly to the hair. The hair can be combed to ensure even coating, and can be dried and styled as usual. Styled hair can be retained using the hair fixative composition of the present invention for a period of about 5-8 hours.

  The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

Example 1
Setting lotion

  An aqueous solution of pullulan and water is prepared by dissolving the pullulan in water. Add ethanol. The resulting setting lotion dries quickly, is clear and stable, has a natural feel and can be sprayed well.

Example 2
Setting lotion

  An aqueous solution of pullulan and water is prepared by dissolving the pullulan in water. Add ethanol. The resulting setting lotion dries quickly, is clear and stable, has a natural feel and can be sprayed well.

Example 3
Comparative studies demonstrate that compositions of the present invention containing high concentrations of monohydric alcohols (eg 25 and 30% ethanol) and pullulan show improved drying times with increasing amounts of monohydric alcohol. Comparisons are made with compositions containing 0, 5 and 10% monohydric alcohol. Samples of ethanol at each concentration (ie 0, 5, 10, 25 and 30%) are produced for 1, 5 and 10% pullulan. Thus, a total of 15 samples are produced. An aqueous solution of pullulan is made by dissolving an appropriate amount of pullulan in water. Thereafter, an appropriate amount of ethanol is added. For each sample, the percent weight loss of a 1 g sample at 40 ° C. is measured every 10 minutes.

  The obtained data are shown in FIGS. The percent weight loss for each sample indicates a decrease in drying time because the percent weight loss is inversely proportional to the drying time. Thus, as the percent weight loss increases, the drying time decreases. It can be seen that the profiles for the samples containing 25 and 30% ethanol demonstrate a shorter drying time than the profiles for the samples containing 0, 5, and 10% ethanol, the latter having a longer drying time. The curves for 25 and 30% ethanol cluster together, unlike the clustered curves for 0, 5, and 10% ethanol. The improved drying time range is about 10-40% based on a 10-40 minute percent weight loss measurement. The same phenomenon of clustered curves for 25 and 30% ethanol is seen for all three percentages of pullulan (ie, 1, 5 and 10%), with samples containing high concentrations of monohydric alcohols having lower concentrations It shows that the drying time improved compared with the monohydric alcohol. Furthermore, since no pullulan precipitation is found, compositions containing high concentrations of ethanol (ie 25 and 30%) are stable based on long-term (8 weeks) accelerated stable storage studies (45 ° C.). is there.

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the drying time for compositions containing various percentages of ethanol: specifically 0, 5, 10, 25 and 30% ethanol in combination with 1% pullulan in terms of percent weight loss. FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the drying time for compositions containing various percentages of ethanol: specifically 0, 5, 10, 25 and 30% ethanol in combination with 5% pullulan in terms of percent weight loss. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the drying time for compositions containing various percentages of ethanol: specifically 0, 5, 10, 25 and 30% ethanol in combination with 10% pullulan in terms of percent weight loss.

Claims (12)

In a hydroalcoholic solvent comprising about 15 to 35% by weight of a monohydric alcohol of the composition, a linear unbranched polysaccharide having no side chain is contained in an amount of about 0.5 to 15% by weight of the composition Hair composition having a good drying time. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is a pullulan having a molecular weight of 5,000 to 5,000,000 and no hydrophobic moiety. The composition of claim 1 wherein the pullulan has a molecular weight of 275,000 to 1,000,000. The composition of claim 1, wherein the monohydric alcohol has a boiling point of less than 100 ° C. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the monohydric alcohol is ethanol. The composition of claim 1 further comprising a wetting agent. The composition of claim 6 wherein the wetting agent is polysorbate 80. The composition of claim 1 further comprising a cationic conditioning agent. 9. A composition according to claim 8 wherein the conditioning agent is cetrimonium chloride. A method for producing the composition of claim 1, comprising dissolving pullulan in water, adding additional hair fixative ingredients, mixing the pullulan solution, and adding a monohydric alcohol. . A method of setting hair comprising applying the composition of claim 1 to hair. A method for improving the drying time of a hair fixative composition, comprising preparing the composition of claim 1 and applying the composition to the hair.

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