EP1893294A1

EP1893294A1 - Capillary cosmetic method comprising a step for the application of a cross-linked polyrotaxane, capillary compositions containing a cross-linked polyrotaxane, and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: EP1893294A1
Application number: EP06764748A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Gwenaëlle JEGOU
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2005-06-10
Filing date: 2006-06-08
Publication date: 2008-03-05
Also published as: JP2008542436A; FR2886848A1; US20090297464A1; FR2886848B1; BRPI0611823A2; WO2006131648A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a capillary cosmetic method involving the application of at least one cross-linked polyrotaxane to hair, the application of at least one cross-linked polyrotaxane to hair corresponding to the application of a cosmetic composition to hair, said cosmetic composition containing at least one cross-linked polyrotaxane, or to the application of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-crosslinked polyrotaxane and the cross-linking of the polyrotaxanes on the hair. The invention also relates to an aqueous or anhydrous capillary cosmetic composition containing at least one cross-linked polyrotaxane and at least one cosmetic adjuvant, and to the uses of said capillary composition.

Description

HAIR COSMETIC PROCESS COMPRISING A STEP FOR APPLYING A RETICULATED POLYROTAXANE, HAIR COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A

CROSSLINKED POLYROTAXANE AND USES THEREFOR

The present invention relates to the field of hair cosmetic compositions comprising a crosslinked polyrotaxane polymer. The polyrotaxanes are part of the chemical family of inclusion compounds, which comprise a first molecular entity that forms a cavity of limited size in which a molecular entity of a second chemical species is housed.

In the field of hair cosmetics, the products making it possible to give the hair volume and a durable shaping over time are the subject of continuous research.

More particularly, in the field of rinsed products such as shampoos and conditioners, products are sought that can provide, in wet or dry medium, not only a good disentangling but also a mass and body effect of the hair, especially for fine hair.

Conventional shampoos contain cationic polymers and silicone gums which generally give the hair good cosmetic properties, especially disentanglement in a moist or dry environment.

Also known, in particular from patent application FR 2 833 831, shampoo formulations containing an adhesive polymer and / or a conditioning polymer that make it possible to provide a styling effect. However, these compositions do not make it possible to give the hair a volume effect.

In the field of so-called "non-rinsed" styling compositions, such as gels or styling sprays, it is known to provide a styling effect and a good feel to the hair by means of conventional rigid polymers, gelling or otherwise, such as products sold under the trade name CARBOPOL by GOODRICH or cellulose derivatives of carboxymethylcellulose type, resins based on vinyl acetate and crotonic acid. However, the shaping of the hair is not sustainable in time.

It is also known to use polymers of the EXPANCEL type for improving the volume of a hairstyle, however these polymers have the drawback of requiring a high swelling activation temperature of greater than 100 ° C., which makes their use difficult to implement.

Recently, products such as carbon nanotubes, particles of cationic latex or mineral particles have been used to increase the volume of the hair, however the effects of these products are generally insufficient. The use of compositions comprising uncrosslinked pseudopolyrotaxanes for cosmetic applications has also been described in particular in Japanese Patent Applications JP09216815 and JP09315937. However, these products are not crosslinked and do not have sufficient swelling properties and mechanical properties.

By "pseudo-polyrotaxane" is meant a supramolecular edifice which comprises at least one linear molecule and at least two cyclic molecules threaded onto said linear molecule, the linear molecule and the cyclic molecules not being bound by covalent bonds so that - the cyclic molecules can move freely along the linear molecule.

These cyclic molecules are not blocked, they are threaded around the linear molecule and are therefore likely to "get out of the chain". The compositions comprising pseudo-polyrotaxanes do not make it possible to obtain sufficient gelation of the composition and do not confer a sufficient volume supply or a sufficient shaping of the hair.

In addition, the mechanical properties of the compositions obtained are not always optimal, in particular their elasticity is often low.

More generally, in all hair applications: washing, care, protection, shaping, hair coloring, it is sought to improve the volume effect and the cosmetic effect. The problem posed by the inventors of the present application is to obtain a hair cosmetic process for imparting to the hair a volume and body effect, shaping the hairstyle also accompanied by a good cosmetic effect.

Surprisingly and advantageously, the Applicant has just discovered that this problem could be solved by applying at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane to the hair.

The cosmetic process according to the present application makes it possible to give the hair a volume and styling contribution which, over time, decreases much less rapidly than the contribution conferred by using a conventional composition.

The hair cosmetic process according to the present application also makes it possible to give the hair good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of softness, elasticity and disentangling.

Another advantage of this process is that it implements cosmetic hair compositions with organoleptic properties including a texture particularly adapted to Capillary uses as well as a pleasant touch. These cosmetic compositions are particularly thick.

The crosslinked polyrotaxane included in the hair cosmetic compositions according to the present application also has mechanical and rheological properties suitable for a cosmetic use including capillary such as good elasticity and high resistance to fracture.

A first obj and of the present application consists of a capillary cosmetic process comprising the implementation of at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane on the hair, the use of at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane on the hair which can correspond to the application on the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane, or else the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one noncrosslinked polyrotaxane and the crosslinking of the polyrotaxane (s) on the hair.

According to a first variant, the polyrotaxane is introduced into the aqueous phase of a cosmetic composition comprising a main aqueous phase. According to a second variant, the polyrotaxane is introduced into the anhydrous phase of a preferably anhydrous cosmetic composition.

According to a third variant, the polyrotaxane is introduced into the aqueous phase of a cosmetic composition comprising a main anhydrous phase. By "main phase of a composition" within the meaning of the present application, it is meant that this phase represents at least 50% by weight of the weight of the total composition.

A second object of the present application consists of a capillary cosmetic composition, aqueous or anhydrous, containing at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane and at least one cosmetic adjuvant selected from surfactants, polymers, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins, sunscreens, pigments, pearlescent or opacifying agents, direct dyes, dye precursors, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, basifying agents, neutralizing agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, solvents, penetrating agents, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning, and preservatives.

A third object of the present application consists in the use of a crosslinked polyrotaxane in hair cosmetics.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "cosmetic hair composition" is intended to mean a cosmetic composition, in particular for washing, caring for or shaping the hair.

The cosmetic compositions according to the present application are preferably in the form of gels, that is to say a three-dimensional network of molecules that retains in its mesh a large amount of solvent. The formation of such a network constitutes its gelation, the gelling of the cosmetic compositions according to the present application is particularly uniform and stable. A "polyrotaxane" is obtained from a pseudopolyrotaxane to which is attached at each end of the linear molecule a molecular structure that prevents cyclic molecules and the linear molecule from separating, if any.

By "crosslinked polyrotaxane" is meant a compound comprising at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, at least one cyclic molecule of the first polyrotaxane and at least one cyclic molecule of the second polyrotaxane being linked by at least one bond which may be chemical or physical . The bond may be in particular a metal bond, an ionic bond, a covalent bond, an interaction resulting from the formation of charge transfer complexes, or a weak interaction of the hydrogen bonding type, Van der Waals bond, or π-π bond. , or a mixture thereof.

A polyrotaxane is therefore a supramolecular assembly in which cyclic molecules are "included" by a molecule linear. To avoid stripping the cyclic molecules of the linear molecule, the ends of the linear molecule are functionalized by bulky or ionic groups.

According to the present invention, the crosslinking of the polymer can be carried out before or after its application on the keratinous fibers.

In the present invention, the term "linear molecule" is intended to refer to a substantially "linear" molecule. This means that a linear molecule may have one or more branched chains, provided the cyclic molecules can be rotated around, or move along the linear molecule.

The length of the "linear" molecule is not limited to a particular length, provided that the linear molecule allows the cyclic molecules to turn on themselves or to move along. said linear molecule. The linear molecules used according to the present invention may be chosen from polymers, in particular

hydrophilic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, poly (meth) acrylic acid, cellulose-based resins (carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and the like), polyacrylamide, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, polytetrahydrofurans, polyvinyl acetal resins, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyamines, polyethyleneimine, starch and the like, and / or their copolymers; hydrophobic polymers such as polyolefinic resins such as polyethylene, polypropylene and copolymer resins with other olefinic monomers, polyester resins, polyisoprenes, polyisobutylenes, polybutadienes, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyethylenes and polypropylenes , polyvinyl chloride resins, polystyrene resins such as polystyrene and acrylonitrile-styrene copolymers, acrylic resins such as acrylonitrile-methyl acrylate copolymer resins, polycarbonate resins, resins polyurethane resins, vinyl chloride-acetate copolymer resins vinyl, polyvinyl butyral resins, ethylene / butylene copolymers; and their derivatives,

poly (methyl methacrylate) and copolymers of (meth) acrylic esters, ethylenic (co) polymers, for example comprising (meth) acrylic acid units, (meth) acrylamides, vinyls, allylic units and ethylenes, such as dienes; or their mixtures.

Among these compounds, those which are preferred are polyethylene glycols, polyisoprene, polyisobutylene, polybutadienes, polypropylene glycols, polytetrahydrofurans, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyethylenes and polypropylenes. Particularly preferred are polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols.

The linear molecules have, independently of each other, advantageously a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g / mol, for example ranging from 350 to 2,000,000, preferably from 1,500 to 1,000,000, preferably still 2,800 to 800,000, for example ranging from 7,000 to 700,000 or from 10,000 to 600,000.

The linear molecules used according to the present invention preferably carry reactive groups at each end. The fact of carrying reactive groups makes it possible to facilitate the reaction with the molecular structures intended to prevent the separation between the linear molecules and the cyclic molecules which they carry.

The reactive groups depend on the blocking molecular structures to be employed. Examples include hydroxyl, amino, tosylate groups, polymerizable groups, activated esters such as N-hydroxysuccinimide esters, carboxyl, thiol and the like. In the present invention, a "ring molecule" refers to a molecule having at least one ring structure. The cyclic molecule may comprise two or more cyclic structures or double rings, or may be a macrocycle, such as, for example, cyclodextrin.

Examples of cyclic molecules in the present invention may include: cyclodextrins, for example alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclodextrin, dimethylcyclodextrin and glucosylcyclodextrin, and their derivatives, crown ethers, benzo-crowns, dibenzo-crowns and dicyclohexano-cyclones; crowns, and their derivatives.

The size of the internal cavity of the cyclic molecules may vary depending on the chosen linear molecule.

In any case, one chooses cyclic molecules that can be threaded along the chain of the linear molecule. Thus, the cavity of the cyclic molecule will preferably have a diameter greater than the diameter of the cross-section of a minimal dummy cylinder in which the linear molecule can be included.

When using a cyclic molecule having a relatively large cavity, and a cylindrical linear molecule having a relatively small diameter, one can include several linear molecules in the cavity of the cyclic molecule.

Of the cyclic molecules that can be used, cyclodextrins and more particularly alpha-cyclodextrin. According to one embodiment, alpha-cyclodextrin is used as a cyclic molecule and polyethylene glycol as a linear molecule.

The cyclic molecules preferably have groups capable of generating bonds that are not located in their cavity. This makes it possible to subsequently link the cyclic molecules together by chemical or physical bonding. The reactive groups of the cyclic molecules may include, for example, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl, or thiol groups. In addition, it is preferable to choose cyclic molecules having reactive groups that do not react with the blocking structures of the chain ends during the blocking reaction between said blocking structures and the linear molecules.

The ratio between the number of cyclic molecules threaded on the linear molecule and the maximum amount of cyclic molecules of The same nature as one could slip on this linear molecule ranges from 0.001 to 0.6, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.4. This ratio can be called "inclusion amount".

The maximum inclusion amount is normalized to 1. It corresponds to the amount at which a linear molecule can include a maximum of cyclic molecules.

It is preferable that the linear molecule does not exhibit a dense stack of cyclic molecules. This dense stacking state corresponds to an inclusion amount equal to 1. Creating a non-dense stack of cyclic molecules makes it possible to preserve molecular segments that can be displaced, so that the cross-linked polyrotaxane has a high resistance to fracture, high entropic elasticity, superior expansion capacity and / or superior restoration property, and if desired, high absorbency or hygroscopicity.

According to another embodiment, the crosslinked polyrotaxane comprises cyclic molecules which each comprise at least two rings, in particular bicyclic molecules. In this embodiment, the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane is threaded into the first cycle of each bicyclic molecule and the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane is threaded into the second ring of at least one bicyclic molecule. After mixing the linear molecules and the bicyclic molecules, each end of the linear molecules is blocked with a blocking group so as to prevent the elimination of the bicyclic molecules in their plugged state.

In this embodiment, it is not necessary to create bonds between the cyclic molecules by a crosslinking reaction, since the covalent bond connecting the two rings of the bicyclic molecule effectively confers the crosslinked nature to the polyrotaxane. The bicyclic molecule may comprise, in addition to the two main cycles, one or more other nuclei.

According to one embodiment, the cyclic molecules can be cyclized after inclusion of the linear molecules. More precisely, a precursor of cyclic molecules having at least one open segment analogous to the letter "C" may be used.

In this case, the "C" segments may be closed after inclusion of the linear molecule, or after blocking of the linear molecule with a blocking group. For molecules having a segment analogous to the letter "C", see M. Asakawa, et al., Angewandte edition Chemie-International 37 (3), 333-337 / (1998), and M. Asakawa, et al., European Journal of Organic Chemistry 5, 985-994 (1999), both of which are incorporated herein by reference. The blocking structures must keep the cyclic molecules strung onto the linear molecule.

These blocking structures can prevent the cyclic molecules from separating from the linear molecule, in particular because of their steric volume. The blocking structures, for example located at each end of each linear molecule, may also prevent the cyclic molecules from being separated, for example from being decomplexed from the linear molecule, in particular by presenting ionic charges.

The term "molecular structure" herein means a molecule, a macromolecule or a solid support, or a mixture.

A macromolecule or a solid support may contain several blocking sites. A blocking structure of a macromolecule may be present in the main chain or in a side chain.

When a blocking structure is a macromolecule A, the macromolecule A may constitute a matrix, part of which contains pseudo-polyrotaxanes, or conversely the pseudo-polyrotaxane may constitute a matrix, part of which contains the macromolecule A. Molecular structures may to be chosen from

dinitrophenyl groups such as 2,4- and 3,5-dinitrophenyl groups;

cyclodextrins; adamantane groups;

- trityl groups;

fluoresceins, the pyrenes,

naphthalimides, and

- their associations.

According to one embodiment, when the linear molecule is a polyethylene glycol, the cyclic molecules can be chosen from alpha-cyclodextrin, dinitrophenyl groups, such as

2,4- and 3,5-dinitrophenyl, adamantane groups, trityl groups, fluoresceins, pyrenes, and combinations thereof.

According to one variant, the crosslinked polyrotaxanes comprise at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane being threaded into the first cycle of a bicyclic molecule and the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane being threaded into the second cycle of the molecule. bicyclic.

According to another variant, the crosslinked polyrotaxanes comprise at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, at least one cyclic molecule of the first polyrotaxane and at least one cyclic molecule of the second polyrotaxane being linked by at least one chemical or physical bond.

When the bond is a chemical bond, the chemical bond may be formed by a single bond or a bond involving different atoms or molecules. Said bond can be obtained by reacting said two cyclic molecules with a crosslinking agent, a coupling agent, a photocrosslinking agent, under the action of temperature, a pH variation and / or irradiation. A cyclic molecule preferably has one or more reactive groups on the outside of the ring, as described above. In particular, after the formation of a blocked polyrotaxane molecule, the cyclic molecules of different polyrotaxanes are crosslinked to one another preferably by means of a crosslinking agent. This reaction can also be done under the action of temperature, pH variation or irradiation. In this case, the conditions of the crosslinking reaction must be conditions in which the blocking groups of the blocked polyrotaxane are not removed. As crosslinking agents, crosslinking agents well known in the art can be employed. Examples that may be mentioned include cyanuric chloride, trimesoyl chloride, terephthaloyl chloride, epichlorohydrin, dibromobenzene, glutaraldehyde, phenylene diisocyanates, tolylene diisocyanates (for example tolylene 2,4-diisocyanate), 1,4-carbonyldiimidazole, divinylsulfone, acid dichlorides (eg, sebacoyl dichloride), trichloro-substituted acids and the like. Various types of coupling agents may also be included, such as silane coupling agents (e.g. various alkoxysilanes) and titanium coupling agents (e.g. various alkoxytitaniums). Other examples include various photocuring agents which are used for materials designed for soft contact lenses, for example stilbazolium salt photocrosslinkers such as formylstyrylpyridium salts (see K.

Ichimura, et al., Journal of Polymer. Science, Polymer Chemistry Edition 20, 141 1-1432 (1982), incorporated herein by reference), and other photocrossulants, for example photocrosslinkers by photodimerization, specifically acid. cinnamic, anthracene, thymines, and the like.

The crosslinking agents preferably have molecular weights of less than 2,000 g / mol, preferably less than 1,000, more preferably less than 600, and most preferably less than 400. In the case where alpha is used. cyclodextrin as cyclic molecule and where a crosslinking agent is used to crosslink it, there may be mentioned, as examples of crosslinking agent, cyanuric chloride, tolylene 2,4-diisocyanate, 1,1 '- carbonyldiimidazole, trimesoyl chloride, terephthaloyl chloride and alkoxysilanes such as tetramethoxysilane and tetraethoxysilane, and the like. In particular, it is preferable to use alpha-cyclodextrin as cyclic molecule and cyanuric chloride as crosslinking agent. The compounds according to the present invention can be prepared according to the teaching of the patent application EP 1 283 218.

Firstly, the cyclic molecules and the linear molecules are mixed to prepare the pseudo-polyrotaxanes in which the cyclic molecules are threaded onto the linear molecules. Secondly, polyrotaxanes are prepared by blocking each end of the linear molecules with blocking groups so as to prevent the removal of the cyclic molecules. Finally, two or more polyrotaxanes are cross-linked by linking the cyclic molecules by chemical bonds in order to obtain the crosslinked polyrotaxane.

According to one embodiment of the invention, P alpha-cyclodextrin is used as a cyclic molecule, polyethylene glycol as linear molecule, 2,4-dinitrophenyl as blocking group and cyanuric chloride as crosslinking agent.

First, each end of the polyethylene glycol is converted to an amino group so that a blocking group can be subsequently attached to the polyethylene glycol end and form the polyrotaxane. In a variant, it is possible to use terminated PEG / PPO copolymers diamine, marketed by HUNSTMAN under the reference JEFFAMINE.

The alpha-cyclodextrin and the polyethylene glycol amine derivative are then mixed to prepare pseudopolyrotaxane. The mixing time is from 1 to 48 hours and the mixing temperature ranges from 0 to 100 ^° C., such that the inclusion amount of the alpha-cyclodextrin on the polyethylene glycol derivative ranges from 0.001 to 0.6.

In general, a polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 20,000 makes it possible to include at most 230 alpha-cyclodextrin molecules. The maximum amount of inclusion corresponding to 230 molecules is 1.

According to one embodiment, 60 to 65 (63) molecules of alpha-cyclodextrin are, on average, strung onto a molecule of polyethylene glycol, which corresponds to an inclusion rate ranging from 0.26 to 0.29 (0.28 ) with respect to the maximum amount of inclusion. The alpha-β-cyclodextrin inclusion amount can be determined by NMR, light absorption, or elemental analysis.

The pseudo-polyrotaxane obtained is reacted with 2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene dissolved in DMF, which makes it possible to obtain the polyrotaxane.

The polyrotaxane is then dissolved in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, and then cyanuric chloride is added to crosslink alpha-cyclodextrins.

The aqueous or anhydrous hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from surface-active agents, polymers, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, and filters. sunscreens, pigments, pearlescent or opacifying agents, direct dyes, dye precursors, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, basifying agents, neutralizing agents, mineral and organic thickeners antioxidants, hydroxy acids, solvents, penetrating agents, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, and preservatives.

Preferably, the cosmetic adjuvant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. Preferably the crosslinked polyrotaxane is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 80%, preferably from 3 to 30%, and even more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the present application may comprise one or more crosslinked polyrotaxanes. The pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is generally between 3 and 9, preferably between 4 and 7.

The process according to the present application can be carried out using an aqueous cosmetic hair composition. The aqueous cosmetic composition according to the present application contains a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "aqueous composition" means a composition containing from 50 to 100% by weight of water, preferably from 70 to 98% by weight of water, even more preferably from 85 to 95% by weight of water Most preferably, the crosslinked polyrotaxane is in the aqueous phase of the aqueous cosmetic hair composition. The cosmetically acceptable medium used in the aqueous compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one alcohol and / or at least one additional organic solvent _^.

. The alcohol used in the compositions according to the present invention is then a monohydroxylated alkanol chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol, preferably the alcohol used. is ethanol.

The concentration of alcohol in the compositions according to the present invention is between 0 and 20%, preferably between 0.1 and 10% and even more preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous composition does not contain a C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol.

As additional organic solvent for use in the aqueous compositions according to the present invention include polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous hair compositions according to the present invention may be in any appropriate form for ^• an application to the hair, preferably in the form of thickened lotions, gels or aqueous _alcohol-s creams or pastes more or less hard. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair cosmetic method according to the present application is implemented by performing the following steps:

Applying to the hair an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane, said composition being, for example, a shampoo, a hair conditioner or a hair lotion,

Drying of said composition containing the crosslinked polyrotaxane for example with ambient air or with a hair dryer, a helmet, a curling iron,

• water recovery of the dried composition containing the polyrotaxane polymer.

The water recovery step of the dried composition can be carried out by vaporizing an aqueous solution on the keratinous fibers, advantageously it can also be carried out spontaneously in contact with the humidity of the ambient air.

The present application also relates to uses of an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising a capillary crosslinked polyrotaxane. According to a first variant, the present application relates to the use of the aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane in washing and hair care products, in particular in shampoos and hair conditioners. The cosmetic compositions used according to the present application, in particular shampoos and conditioners advantageously comprise silicones, preferably amines, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners such as fatty alcohols and amides, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants.

The present application also relates to a permanent hair shaping process in which an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane is applied to the hair. By "permanent shaping" according to the present application is meant the curling, the permanent, the setting of Caucasian, Asian or North African hair.

By "straightening" according to the present application is meant straightening, smoothing or decreping of Caucasian, Asian, North African, or African hair.

The methods of permanently shaping or straightening the hair generally use a reducing composition and then optionally a fixing composition, preferably oxidizing. In the permanent shaping or straightening process according to the present application, the crosslinked polyrotaxane may be included either in the reducing composition which then also comprises a reducing agent, preferably a sulphite, a bisulphite or a thiol, or in the oxidizing composition. which then also comprises an oxidizing agent, either in an additional composition intended to be applied before the reducing composition, after the reducing composition or after the oxidizing composition.

The present application also relates to a temporary hair shaping process in which an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane is applied to the hair.

According to another variant, the present application relates to the uses of the aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane for permanent shaping or straightening of the hair.

According to another variant, the present application relates to the use of the aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane in a direct dyeing or hair oxidation composition. In the hair dyeing method according to the present application, the crosslinked polyrotaxane may be included in the dye composition which also comprises at least one oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers and / or at least one a direct dye. The cross-linked polyrotaxane can also be included in an additional composition intended to be applied before or after the coloring composition.

According to another variant, the present application relates to the use of the aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane in a composition of gel, lotion or hair spray.

The uses of the aqueous cosmetic compositions make it possible to confer on the keratin fibers a contribution of volume and also of good cosmetic properties in a dry and wet medium (softness, disentangling) and good styling properties, in particular in terms of loop spring.

The process according to the present application can be carried out using an anhydrous cosmetic hair composition.

By "anhydrous composition" according to the present application is meant a composition containing less than 50% and up to 0% by weight of water, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight of water, even more preferably between 5 and 10% by weight of water.

According to one embodiment, the water optionally contained in the composition is not added to the ingredients during its preparation. This water may be in trace amounts and be due to the ingredients used to prepare said composition.

According to a first variant, the crosslinked polyrotaxane is in the anhydrous phase of the anhydrous cosmetic hair composition.

According to a second variant, the crosslinked polyrotaxane is in the aqueous phase of the anhydrous cosmetic hair composition.

Preferably, the crosslinked polyrotaxane is in the aqueous phase of the anhydrous cosmetic hair composition.

The anhydrous hair compositions according to the present invention may be in any form suitable for application to the hair, preferably in the form of a lotion

O / W or O / W / H or in the form of W / O or W / O / W lotions.

The present application relates to the use of the anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising an anhydrous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane in hair conditioning products. This use makes it possible to give the hair good cosmetic properties in a dry and humid environment such as softness, disentangling. This use also makes it possible to bring volume to the hair. This use also makes it possible to improve the styling properties and in particular the spring of loops.

The anhydrous cosmetic hair composition according to the present application advantageously comprises a fatty substance chosen from oils, waxes and pasty fatty substances.

The anhydrous cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising especially oils, especially waxes, solid fats at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty phase may also contain, in addition to oils, other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling and / or structuring agents.

The oil or oils may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 99% by weight, in particular of at least 1 to 90% by weight, more particularly of 5 to 70% by weight, in particular of 10 to 60% by weight. , even 20 to

50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The additional and / or distinct oils of the copolymer according to the present invention which are suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile oils, silicone or otherwise.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^{~ 3} to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 100 mm Hg) and preferentially ranging from ₅ 1 3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term ^" non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin. , synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

The fatty phase of the anhydrous cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may also comprise at least one volatile oil. According to one particular embodiment, the anhydrous cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one silicone oil chosen from volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile oils may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 20 to 99% by weight, especially from 30% to 80% by weight, and in particular from 40% to 80% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the aqueous or anhydrous compositions according to the present invention contain at least one additional cosmetic additive chosen from thickening polymers, surfactants and conditioners. According to a first preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention contain at least one thickening polymer still known as "rheology adjusting agents".

The rheology adjusting agents may be selected from fatty acid amides, cellulosic thickeners, guar gum and its derivatives, gums of microbial origin, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and the associative thickening polymers as described below. These associative polymers are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain. The associative polymers may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type.

Their concentration can vary from about 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of:

- (I) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit,

- (H) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester of (C ₃ -C _lo o) of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

- (HI) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin / alkyl maleate

- (IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising: (a) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer different from (a), (c) from about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0173 109 - (V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and a oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Among the associative polymers of cationic type, mention may be made of: (I) cationic associative polyurethanes whose family has been described by the Applicant in French Patent Application No. 0009609; it can be represented by the following general formula (XVIII):

RX- (P) _n - [L- (Y) _m ] _r -L '- (PVX'-R' (XVIII) in which:

R and R ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X ', which are identical or different, represent a group comprising an amino function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or else the group L ";

L, L 'and L ", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P ', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amino function bearing or not a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between

1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25, n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amino function and at least one hydrophobic group.

(II) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with non-cyclic amine side groups.

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising

1 to 20 mole% of monomer comprising a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the total number of moles of monomers.

Advantageously, the amount of thickening agents present in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01 and 10% and preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention additionally contains at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Advantageously, the amount of surfactants present in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01 and 40% and preferably between 0, 1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As conditioning agent there may be mentioned silicones and cationic polymers. The silicones that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or nonvolatile. They may be in the form of oils, resins or gums, they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers.

In a particular way, we quote:

(1) The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492

597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. (2) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.

Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR Cl 62 by the company MEYHALL. (3) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, more particularly mention may be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by Calgon (and its counterparts of low average molecular weight in weight) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550".

The cosmetic compositions according to the present application can still be used for hair repair.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention in a formulation selected from hair lotions, hair gels, hair mousse without propellants ("foamers"), hair creams, capillary sprays aerosols with a gas propellant or capillary sprays in a pump bottle without propellant for shaping or holding the hair.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. EXAMPLES

Example 1 Preparation of the Polyrotaxane

PEG-BA produced by Fluka and ά-cyclodextrin (3.6 g) were dissolved in water (30 mL) at 80 ° C. and PE kept the mixture at 5 ° C overnight, to obtain the white paste of the inclusion complex. The dough was dried, an excess of 2,4-dinitrofluorobenzene (2.4 mL) was added together with dimethylformamide (10 mL) and the mixture was stirred under a nitrogen atmosphere at room temperature for 1 hour. a night. The reaction mixture a. dissolved in DMSO (50 mL) and precipitated twice in 0.1% aqueous sodium chloride solution (800 mL) to give a yellow product. The product was collected, washed with water and methanol (three times, respectively) and dried to produce polyrotaxane (1.25 g) to give the blocked polyrotaxane.

Example 2: Obtaining a crosslinked polyrotaxane

OOmg of polyrotaxane was dissolved in 0.5 ml of a solution

1 N sodium hydroxide at 5 ° C in a reactor. 35 mg of 2,4,6-trichloro-1,3,5-triazine dissolved in 1 N NaOH (0.5 mL) was added to the reactor. The reaction mixture was allowed to react at room temperature for 3 hours to produce the crosslinked polyrotaxane.

In the following examples, the percentages are by weight.

Example 3 Preparation of a Capillary Hair Gel

2 g of an aqueous solution comprising 200 mg of the gel of Example 2 and 0.4 mg of a preservative is applied to locks of hair of 1, 5 g wet. The locks are kneaded and then left for 5 minutes. •.

A wick is wrapped around a hair curler 0.5 cm in diameter and heated in the headset 70 ^° C. for 30 minutes. The wick is then detached from the hair curler and left at room humidity. After drying, the tone of the curl, the touch of the hair and the disentangling of the combs are evaluated. There is a durable loop spring (> 8 days) much greater than the control lock treated only with an aqueous solution and a preservative.

Example 4 Preparation of a hair styling gel

2 g of an aqueous solution comprising 200 mg of the gel of Example 1 and 0.4 mg of a preservative is applied to strands of hair of 1.5 g moist previously treated with a dilute solution of 0.5N sodium hydroxide (2 ml ) containing 20 mg of cyanuric chloride. A wick is wrapped around a curler diameter 0.5 cm and dried helmet at 70 ° C for 1 hour. The wick is then detached from the hair curler and left at room humidity. After drying, the tone of the curl, the touch of the hair and the disentangling of the combs are evaluated. There is a durable loop spring (> 8 days) much greater than the control lock treated only with an aqueous solution and a preservative.

Example 5 Preparation of a hair styling gel

2 g of an aqueous solution comprising 200 mg of the gel of Example 2 and 0.4 mg of a preservative is applied to hair strands of 1.5 g wet. The locks are mixed, left to pose 5 minutes A wick is wrapped around a hair curler of 0.5 cm in diameter and heated in a helmet 70 ^° C. for 30 minutes. The wick is then detached from the hair curler and left at room humidity. After drying, the tone of the curl, the touch of the hair and the disentangling of the combs are evaluated. There is a durable loop spring (> 8 days) much greater than the control lock treated only with an aqueous solution and a preservative.

Example 6: Preparation of a volumizing shampoo

2 g of an aqueous surfactant solution (12.5% ai of lauryl ether sulfate and 2.5% cocoylbétaine) comprising 20 mg of the gel of the preceding Example 2 is applied to a wick of 1.5 g wet. The wick is immersed in this solution for 3 minutes then rinsed and dried. The wick is kneaded, left for 5 minutes and then rinsed. Before drying, the disentangling is evaluated. In wet environment (after rinsing) a very good disentangling is observed. After drying, the tonicity of the loop, the feel of the hair and the disentangling of the locks with the comb and in a dry environment are evaluated. A wick volume is found to be much greater than the control wick treated solely with an aqueous solution comprising (12.5% w / w lauryl ether sulfate and 2.5% cocoyl / betaine). There is a durable loop spring (> 8 days) much greater than the control lock treated only with an aqueous solution and a preservative. Example 7: Preparation of a volumizing conditioner

To 2 g of the emulsion shown in the table above, 20 mg of the previous gel (Example 2) is added by weight. The composition according to the present application obtained is applied to a wick of 1, 5 g wet. The wick is kneaded, left for 5 minutes then rinsed and dried. In wet medium (after rinsing), a very good disentangling is observed, and in a dry medium a volume of the wick much greater than the control wick treated only with the formula after shampoo without crosslinked polyrotaxane.

There is a durable loop spring (> 8 days) much greater than the control lock treated only with an aqueous solution and a preservative.

Example 8: Preparation of a permanent composition

The following reducing composition is prepared:

This composition is applied to the hair, then allowed to rest for half an hour. After a rinse and a break time of 10 minutes, an oxidizing composition of hydrogen peroxide is applied and then left to rest for half an hour. After rinsing and drying it is found that the hairstyle obtained has good cosmetic properties including softness.

Example 9 Preparation of a Hair Coloring Composition

The dyeing composition according to the invention was prepared as follows:

Crosslinked Polyrotaxane According to Example 2 2 g

Oleic acid 3 g

Aqueous solution of sodium bisulfite at 35% MA * 0.45 g MA *

Paraphenylenediamine 0, 162g

Resorcinol. 0, 165g

Ammonia (20% NH ₃ ) 1 1, 5 g water qs. 100 g

MA * = Active matter

At the time of use, this weight / weight composition was mixed with a solution of hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes, and then the mixture obtained was applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% of whites. After 10 minutes pause, the locks were rinsed, then washed with shampoo, rinsed again, and then dried.

It is found that the hairstyle obtained has good cosmetic properties including softness.

Claims

1. Capillary cosmetic process comprising the use of at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane on the hair.

2. Capillary cosmetic method according to claim 1 characterized in that it is applied to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane.

3. Capillary cosmetic process according to claim 1, characterized in that a cosmetic composition comprising at least one non-crosslinked polyrotaxane is applied to the hair and the crosslinking of the polyrotaxane (s) is caused on the hair.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane comprises at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, each polyrotaxane comprising at least one linear molecule and at least two cyclic molecules, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane are independently of one another selected from hydrophilic polymers such as poly (vinyl alcohol), polyvinylpyrrolidone, poly (acid) (meth) acrylic) cellulose-based resins (carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and the like), polyacrylamide, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, polytetrahydrofurans, polyvinyl acetal resins, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyamines, polyethyleneimine, starch and the like, and / or their copolymers.

5. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the linear molecule is chosen from polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols.

6 '. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane comprises at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, each polyrotaxane comprising at least one linear molecule and at least two cyclic molecules, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane are independently of one another selected from hydrophobic polymers such as polyolefin resins such as polyethylene, polypropylene and copolymer resins with other monomers olefinic resins, polyester resins, polyisoprenes, polyisobutylenes, polybutadienes, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyethylenes and polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride resins, polystyrene resins such as polystyrene and acrylonitrile copolymers. styrene, acrylic resins such as Acrylonitrile-methyl acrylate copolymer resins, polycarbonate resins, polyurethane resins, vinyl chloride-vinyl acetate copolymer resins, polyvinyl butyral resins, ethylene / butylene copolymers; and their derivatives.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane comprises at least a first and a second polyrotaxane, each polyrotaxane comprising at least one linear molecule and at least two cyclic molecules, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane are independently of one another selected from poly (methyl methacrylate) and copolymers of (meth) acrylic esters, ethylenic (co) polymers by such as acid units ^(meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylamides, vinyl, allyl, ethylenes, such as dienes or mixtures thereof.

8. A method according to any one of claims 4 ^"to 7, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the molecule of the second polyrotaxane .Linear have independently from each other a molecular weight of greater than or equal to 350 g / mol, for example ranging from 350 to 2,000,000.

9. Process according to any one of Claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane carry, independently of each other, reactive groups chosen from hydroxyl groups. amino, tosylate, polymerizable groups, activated esters such as N-hydroxysuccinimide esters, carboxyl, thiol and the like.

10. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 9 characterized in that the cyclic molecules comprise at least two cycles, or can be cyclized after inclusion of the linear molecules.

1. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that the cyclic molecules of the first and second polyrotaxanes are chosen from: cyclodextrins, for example alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma cyclodextrin, dimethylcyclodextrin and glucosylcyclodextrin, and derivatives thereof, crown ethers, benzo-crowns, dibenzo-crowns and dicyclohexano-crowns, and derivatives thereof.

12. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the cyclic molecules are alpha-cyclodextrins.

13. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 12, characterized in that the ratio between the number of cyclic molecules threaded onto the linear molecule of each polyrotaxane and the maximum amount of cyclic molecules of the same nature that one could to slip on the linear molecule goes from 0.001 to 0.6.

14. A method according to any one of claims 4 to 13, characterized in that the linear molecule of the first polyrotaxane and / or the linear molecule of the second polyrotaxane comprise, at each of their ends, a molecular structure which prevents the cyclic molecules and the linear molecule to separate, the molecular structure being a molecule or a macromolecule.

15. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the molecular structure carries such a ionic charge and / or occupies a steric volume such that it prevents the cyclic molecules and the linear molecule from separating.

16. Process according to claim 14, characterized in that the molecular structure is chosen from dinitrophenyl groups such as 2,4-dinitrophenyl groups and

3,5-dinitrophenyl; cyclodextrins; adamantane groups; trityl groups; fluoresceins, pyrenes, naphthalimides and their combinations.

17. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 16, characterized in that at least one cyclic molecule of the first polyrotaxane and at least one cyclic molecule of the second polyrotaxane are linked by chemical bonding, said bond being obtained by reaction of the two cyclic molecules preferably with a crosslinking agent, a coupling agent, a photocuring agent, the temperature, a pH variation and / or an irradiation.

18. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the crosslinking agent is selected from cyanuric chloride, trimesoyl chloride, terephthaloyl chloride, epichlorohydrin, dibromobenzene, glutaraldehyde, phenylene diisocyanates, tolylene diisocyanates (eg tolylene 2,4-diisocyanate), 1,4-carbonyldiimidazole, divinylsulfone, acid dichlorides, for example, sebacoyl dichloride, trichloro-substituted acids and the like.

19. Process according to the preceding claim characterized in that the crosslinking agent is selected from cyanuric chloride, tolylene 2,4-diisocyanate, 1,4-carbonyldiimidazole, trimesoyl chloride, terephthaloyl chloride .

20. The method of claim 1 7 characterized in that the coupling agent selected from silane coupling agents (for example various alkoxysilanes) and titanium coupling agents (for example the various alkoxytitanes).

21. The method of claim 17 characterized in that the photocrosslinking agent is selected from photocrosslinkers based on stilbazolium salts such as formylstyrylpyridium salts, cinnamic acid, anthracene, thymines, and the like.

22. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane is included in the aqueous phase of a cosmetic composition comprising a main aqueous phase.

23. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is implemented by performing the following steps:

Application to the hair of an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane,

•. drying said composition containing the crosslinked polyrotaxane,

24. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the water recovery step of the dried composition is carried out either by vaporizing an aqueous solution on the hair, or spontaneously in contact with the humidity of the ambient air.

25. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it is a temporary shaping process of the hair in which is applied, an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a polyrotaxane reticle.

26. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it is a permanent shaping process of the hair in which is applied, an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a polyrotaxane crosslinked, a reducing composition and optionally a fixing composition.

27. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aqueous composition comprising the crosslinked polyrotaxane is included in the reducing composition which then also comprises a reducing agent, preferably a sulfite, a bisulfite or a thiol, or is included in the oxidizing composition. including then also an oxidizing agent, or is an additional composition intended to be applied before the reducing composition, after the reducing composition or after the oxidizing composition.

28. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it is a hair straightening process in which is applied, an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane and a reducing composition and optionally a fixing composition.

29. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aqueous composition comprising the crosslinked polyrotaxane is included in the reducing composition which then also comprises a reducing agent, preferably a sulphite, a bisulphite or a thiol, or is an additional composition intended for be applied before the reducing composition or after the reducing composition.

30. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it is a direct dyeing or oxidation process of the hair in which is applied, an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane, and a coloring composition.

31. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aqueous composition comprising the crosslinked polyrotaxane is included in the coloring composition which also comprises at least one oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers and / or at least one oxidation dye precursor. minus a direct dye, or is an additional composition intended to be applied before the dyeing composition or after the dyeing composition.

32. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane is included in the aqueous phase of a cosmetic composition comprising a main anhydrous phase.

33. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is a hair conditioning process in which one applies a. cosmetic composition comprising an anhydrous phase containing a crosslinked polyrotaxane and an oil.

34. An aqueous or anhydrous hair cosmetic composition comprising at least one crosslinked polyrotaxane as defined in one of Claims 4 to 21 and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from surfactants, polymers, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins, sunscreens, pigments, pearlescent or opacifying agents, direct dyes, dye precursors, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, alkalizing agents, neutralizing agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, solvents, penetrating agents, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, and preservatives.

35. Cosmetic hair composition according to claim 34, characterized in that the cosmetic adjuvant is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. capillary.

36. Cosmetic hair composition according to claim 34 or 35, characterized in that the crosslinked polyrotaxane is present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 80%, preferably from 3 to 30%, and even more preferably from 5 to 25%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

37. Use of an aqueous composition according to one of claims 34 to 36 in washing and hair care products, in particular in shampoos and conditioners.

38. Use of an aqueous composition according to one of claims 34 to 36 for the hair curling or straightening.

39. Use of an aqueous composition according to one of claims 34 to 36 for coloring the hair.

40. Use of an anhydrous composition according to one of claims 34 to 36 in the form of an O / W, O / W / H, E / H, E / H / E lotion in hair conditioning products. not rinsed.

41. Use of an aqueous composition according to one of claims 34 to 36 in products of gels or hair lotions.