JP2007297766A - Multicolor-dyeable composite multifilament yarn, woven or knitted fabric using the same, and method for producing woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Multicolor-dyeable composite multifilament yarn, woven or knitted fabric using the same, and method for producing woven or knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP2007297766A
JP2007297766A JP2007100655A JP2007100655A JP2007297766A JP 2007297766 A JP2007297766 A JP 2007297766A JP 2007100655 A JP2007100655 A JP 2007100655A JP 2007100655 A JP2007100655 A JP 2007100655A JP 2007297766 A JP2007297766 A JP 2007297766A
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multifilament
woven
dtex
fiber
knitted fabric
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JP4833141B2 (en
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Atsushi Yamamoto
篤 山本
Hisashi Kuroda
久 黒田
Tadashi Sakaki
正 坂喜
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Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
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Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a multicolor-dyeable composite multifilament yarn having a fine pepper-and-salt-like color tone and a nonconventional pepper-and-salt-like pattern, and to provide a woven or knitted fabric thereof. <P>SOLUTION: The multicolor-dyeable composite multifilament yarn comprises a cellulose multifilament, and a multifilament having dye-affinity different from that of the cellulose multifilament. The fineness of the cellulose multifilament is ≥5 dtex and <25 dtex and the mixed proportion of the cellulose multifilament is ≥5 mass% and ≤30 mass%. The woven or knitted fabric is obtained by using the multicolor-dyeable composite multifilament yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、繊細な霜降り色調を有する異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸、それを用いた織編物および織編物の製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a metachromatic composite multifilament yarn having a delicate marbling color tone, a woven or knitted fabric using the same, and a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric.

従来から異染性を有する繊維群を組み合わせ、片染めによる霜降り調の色調を表現する手段が試みられてきており、分散染料可染性のポリエステル繊維と分散染料不染性の天然繊維や再生繊維のレーヨン繊維などとの組み合わせによる複合糸などが、公知の技術として知られている。   Conventionally, attempts have been made to combine a group of fibers having different dyeing properties to express a marbling tone color by single dyeing, and disperse dye-dyeable polyester fibers and disperse dye-undyed natural fibers and recycled fibers. Composite yarns in combination with other rayon fibers are known as a known technique.

特許文献1には、アセテート繊維マルチフィラメントをアルカリ処理すると脱アセチル反応により減量されることを利用して、セルローストリアセテート繊維とセルロースジアセテート繊維を組み合わせて複合糸とした後、セルロースジアセテート繊維の内層を鹸化させずに表層を鹸化処理することで直接染料や反応染料等の片染めを可能とする方法が記載されている。   In Patent Document 1, by utilizing the fact that the acetate fiber multifilament is reduced by deacetylation when it is treated with alkali, a cellulose triacetate fiber and a cellulose diacetate fiber are combined into a composite yarn, and then the inner layer of the cellulose diacetate fiber is used. A method is described in which saponification of the surface layer without saponification of the dye enables direct dyeing of reactive dyes or dyes.

さらには、特許文献2には、アセテート繊維の最内層に至るまで鹸化する方法が記載されており、この場合、分散染料での染色によっても片染めの効果が得られることは容易に推察できる。
特開昭59−094674号公報 特開昭60−173162号公報
Furthermore, Patent Document 2 describes a method of saponification to the innermost layer of acetate fiber. In this case, it can be easily assumed that the effect of one-sided dyeing can be obtained by dyeing with a disperse dye.
JP 59-094674 A JP 60-173162 A

しかし再生繊維のレーヨン繊維などとの組み合わせによる複合マルチフィラメント糸などの場合、繊度は工業生産での製造安定性や製造コストの面から細繊度品種に限度があり、繊度が25デシテックス未満の再生繊維は容易に得られず、然るに天然繊維を含めて細繊度品種のセルロース系繊維から得られる異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸の色調は知られていなかった。   However, in the case of composite multifilament yarns, etc., in combination with regenerated fibers such as rayon fibers, the fineness is limited in terms of fineness varieties in terms of manufacturing stability and cost in industrial production, and regenerated fibers with a fineness of less than 25 dtex. However, the color tone of the metachromatic multi-filament yarn obtained from cellulosic fibers of fine fineness including natural fibers was not known.

特に薄地衣料などでは用いる複合マルチフィラメント糸自体の繊度が小さく、複合マルチフィラメント糸に占める両成分の繊度比を大きくできないため、得られる布帛は分散染料不染成分による無着色部が多く見える色調のものとなり、繊細な霜降り色調を有するものは得られなかった。   Especially for thin lichens, the fineness of the composite multifilament yarn itself is small and the fineness ratio of both components in the composite multifilament yarn cannot be increased. Therefore, the resulting fabric has a color tone in which many uncolored parts due to disperse dye-dye-free components can be seen. A product having a delicate marbling color tone was not obtained.

特許文献1の方法では、アセテート繊維マルチフィラメントの芯部が鹸化されていないため、分散染料にて染色され、十分な無着色効果が得られず、霜降り調とならない。   In the method of Patent Document 1, since the core portion of the acetate fiber multifilament is not saponified, it is dyed with a disperse dye, a sufficient non-coloring effect cannot be obtained, and a marbling tone is not obtained.

また特許文献2の方法では、アルカリ処理後の繊度が大きく、分散染料にて染色した布帛は無着色部が過度に多い色調であり、微細な無着色部を有する霜降り色調のものは得られていなかった。   Further, in the method of Patent Document 2, the fineness after alkali treatment is large, and the fabric dyed with disperse dye has a color tone with excessively uncolored portions, and a marbled color tone with fine uncolored portions has been obtained. There wasn't.

本発明はこのような従来技術における問題点を解決するものであり、微細な異染色部あるいは無着色部を有する異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸及びその織編物を提供するものである。   The present invention solves such problems in the prior art, and provides a multicolored composite multifilament yarn having a fine dyed portion or a non-colored portion and a woven or knitted fabric thereof.

本発明の第1の要旨は、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントと、前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントとからなる複合マルチフィラメント糸で、下記(1)、(2)を満たす異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸にある。   The first gist of the present invention is a composite multifilament yarn comprising a cellulosic fiber multifilament and a long fiber multifilament having a dyeability different from that of the cellulosic fiber multifilament, and the following (1), (2 ) In the multi-colored composite multifilament yarn.

(1)セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満
(2)セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率が5質量%以上30質量%以下
また本発明の第2の要旨は、前記繊維を用いた織編物にある。
(1) The fineness of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex (2) The mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less. The woven or knitted fabric used is.

また本発明の第3の要旨は、下記の(3)〜(6)の工程を経る織編物の製造方法にある。     Moreover, the 3rd summary of this invention exists in the manufacturing method of the woven / knitted fabric which passes through the process of following (3)-(6).

(3) アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントと、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントを複合マルチフィラメント糸とする工程、
(4) 前記複合マルチフィラメント糸に下記式を満足する撚りを施す工程
撚数Tw(回/m);5000/√Dtex≦Tw≦27000/√Dtex
(但し、Dtexは複合マルチフィラメント糸の総繊度を示すものである。)
(5) 前記複合マルチフィラメント糸を用いて織編物とする工程、
(6) 前記織編物をアルカリ処理し、アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントを繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとする工程
(3) A step of converting a long fiber multifilament having different dyeability from an acetate fiber multifilament and a cellulose fiber multifilament into a composite multifilament yarn,
(4) Step of twisting the composite multifilament yarn satisfying the following formula: Tw (times / m); 5000 / √Dtex ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / √Dtex
(However, Dtex indicates the total fineness of the composite multifilament yarn.)
(5) A step of forming a woven or knitted fabric using the composite multifilament yarn,
(6) A step of subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to an alkali treatment to convert the acetate fiber multifilament into a cellulose fiber multifilament having a fineness of 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex.

本発明は、繊細な霜降り色調を有する異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸および織編物が得られる。   According to the present invention, a metachromatic composite multifilament yarn and a knitted or knitted fabric having a delicate marbling color tone can be obtained.

本発明の異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸は、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントと、前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントとからなる複合マルチフィラメント糸であるが、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満で、かつセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率が5質量%以上30質量%以下であることが必要である。   The metachromatic composite multifilament yarn of the present invention is a composite multifilament yarn comprising a cellulosic fiber multifilament and a long fiber multifilament having a different dyeability from the cellulosic fiber multifilament. It is necessary that the fineness of the fiber multifilament is 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less.

セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの繊度が25デシテックス未満であると、分散染料による片染めにて得られる布帛はセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントによる無着色部が細かく分散した繊細な色調のものが得られる。一方、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの繊度が5デシテックス以上の場合、無着色部が明確に識別でき、霜降り調としての効果が得られる。   When the fineness of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is less than 25 dtex, a fabric obtained by one-dying with a disperse dye can have a delicate color tone in which the non-colored portions of the cellulosic fiber multifilament are finely dispersed. On the other hand, when the fineness of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5 dtex or more, the uncolored portion can be clearly identified, and an effect as a marbling tone is obtained.

また前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率が5質量%以上であると、分散染料による片染めにて得られる布帛の無着色部が判断でき、霜降り調としての効果が得られる。一方、前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率が30質量%以下の場合、分散染料による片染めにて得られる布帛はセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントによる無着色部が細かく分散した繊細な色調のものが得られる。   Further, when the mixing ratio of the cellulose fiber multifilament is 5% by mass or more, an uncolored portion of the fabric obtained by one-dying with a disperse dye can be determined, and an effect as a marbling tone is obtained. On the other hand, when the mixing ratio of the cellulose-based fiber multifilament is 30% by mass or less, a fabric obtained by one-dyeing with a disperse dye can have a delicate color tone in which the non-colored portions of the cellulose-based fiber multifilament are finely dispersed. .

セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントは、細繊度糸を混繊することも可能であるが、取り扱いが困難で、さらに製造そのものが困難であるため、本発明に用いるセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントは、アルカリ減量を伴う後加工により得られるものがより好ましい。   Cellulosic fiber multifilaments can be mixed with fine yarns, but they are difficult to handle and difficult to manufacture. Therefore, the cellulose fiber multifilaments used in the present invention involve an alkali weight loss. What is obtained by post-processing is more preferable.

繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満であるセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントは、40デシテックス以下のアセテート繊維マルチフィラメントをアルカリ処理して得ることも可能である。アセテート繊維マルチフィラメントが40デシテックス以下の繊度の場合、アルカリ処理後の繊度を25デシテックス未満とするためには減量率を高くする必要がなく、処理条件が広く取れるため好ましい。   Cellulosic fiber multifilaments having a fineness of 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex can also be obtained by subjecting acetate fiber multifilaments of 40 dtex or less to an alkali treatment. When the acetate fiber multifilament has a fineness of 40 dtex or less, it is not necessary to increase the weight loss rate in order to make the fineness after the alkali treatment less than 25 dtex, and it is preferable because the treatment conditions can be widely taken.

また、アルカリ処理の方法は限定されるものではないが、好ましいものとしてアセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントの最内層に至るまで鹸化する方法が挙げられる。アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントの最内層に至るまで鹸化するとは、繊維のアルカリ処理後の減量率において、セルロースジアセテート繊維では、38質量%程度、セルローストリアセテート繊維では、42質量%程度まで、鹸化による減量を施すことをいう。   Moreover, the method of alkali treatment is not limited, but a preferable method is saponification to reach the innermost layer of the acetate fiber multifilament. Saponification to the innermost layer of acetate fiber multifilament means that the weight loss after alkali treatment of the fiber is about 38% by mass for cellulose diacetate fiber and about 42% by mass for cellulose triacetate fiber. It means to give.

アルカリ処理は、例えば、水酸化ナトリウム、水酸化カリウム、炭酸カルシウム等のアルカリ化合物を用い、かかるアルカリ化合物の溶液にアセテート系繊維を浸漬、パッデイング等により含浸させて処理する。アルカリ処理における処理液濃度、処理温度、処理時間は、用いるアルカリ化合物により、また目的物により異なるが、好ましいセルロースジアセテート繊維のアルカリ処理条件を挙げるならば、水酸化ナトリウム水溶液を用いた場合、水酸化ナトリウム濃度は5質量%を超えない濃度、処理温度は40〜80℃、処理時間は60分以内であり、減量率で38質量%を目安に処理する。かかるアルカリ処理により、アセテート系繊維より本発明に用いるセルロース系繊維、および、本発明の複合マルチフィラメント糸または、織編物を得ることができる。   The alkali treatment is performed, for example, by using an alkali compound such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or calcium carbonate, and immersing the acetate fiber in the solution of the alkali compound by impregnation or padding. The treatment solution concentration, treatment temperature, and treatment time in the alkali treatment vary depending on the alkali compound used and the target product. If preferred alkali treatment conditions for cellulose diacetate fibers are given, water is used in the case of using an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. The concentration of sodium oxide does not exceed 5% by mass, the treatment temperature is 40 to 80 ° C., the treatment time is 60 minutes or less, and the treatment is performed with a weight loss rate of 38% by mass as a guide. By such alkali treatment, the cellulose fiber used in the present invention and the composite multifilament yarn or woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained from the acetate fiber.

また、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントと染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントは、ポリエステル繊維やナイロンといった直接染料や反応染料に不染性の繊維であれば特に限定されるものではない。さらにはセルロースジアセテート繊維をアルカリ処理によってセルロース系繊維成分とする場合は、染色性を異にする繊維成分としてセルローストリアセテート繊維を用いることも可能である。   The long fiber multifilament having a dyeability different from that of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber that is non-dyeable to a direct dye or a reactive dye such as polyester fiber or nylon. Furthermore, when cellulose diacetate fiber is made into a cellulose fiber component by alkali treatment, cellulose triacetate fiber can be used as a fiber component having different dyeability.

複合マルチフィラメント糸に、撚数Tw(回/m);5000/√Dtex≦Tw≦27000/√Dtexの範囲で、撚りを施して用いることもできる。   The composite multifilament yarn can also be used after being twisted in the range of twist number Tw (times / m); 5000 / √Dtex ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / √Dtex.

(但し、Dtexは複合マルチフィラメント糸の総繊度を示すものである。)
撚数Tw(回/m)が5000/√Dtex以上であると、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメント糸と前記セルロース系マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントが適度にこなれて、ナチュラルなビジュアル感を有する繊細な霜降り調の布帛が得られる。一方、撚数Tw(回/m)が、27000/√Dtex以下であると適度なドレープ性により、優雅なシルエットを有する繊細な霜降り調の布帛が得られる。
(However, Dtex indicates the total fineness of the composite multifilament yarn.)
When the number of twists Tw (times / m) is 5000 / √Dtex or more, the cellulose-based multifilament yarn and the cellulose-based multifilament have moderately long filament multifilaments with different dyeability, and are natural. A delicate marbling-like fabric having a visual feeling can be obtained. On the other hand, if the twist number Tw (times / m) is 27000 / √Dtex or less, a delicate marbling-like fabric having an elegant silhouette can be obtained due to appropriate drape.

また、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントは、霜降り調の色調を強調させる目的で、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントと混繊する以前にエアー交絡または撚糸を施すことが好ましい。さらにはセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントの複合方法として、引き揃え、合撚、またはエアー交絡を施す方法が考えられるが、特に限定されるものではない。   In addition, long fiber multifilaments that differ in dyeability from cellulosic fiber multifilaments may be air entangled or twisted before being mixed with cellulosic fiber multifilaments for the purpose of enhancing the marbling tone. preferable. Furthermore, as a method of combining long-fiber multifilaments in which cellulosic fiber multifilaments and cellulose-based fiber multifilaments have different dyeability, methods of aligning, twisting, or air entanglement can be considered, but there is a particular limitation. It is not something.

セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントがアセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントのアルカリ処理糸である場合、アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントの紡出糸を巻き取る工程において、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントを加えて巻き取ることもなんらは問題ない。   When the cellulosic fiber multifilament is an alkali-treated yarn of acetate fiber multifilament, in the process of winding the spun yarn of the acetate fiber multifilament, the long fiber multifilament having a dyeability different from that of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is used. There is no problem with adding a filament and winding it.

本発明の異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸を用いた織編物は、他の繊維と交織・交編または交撚等により複合しても良く、本発明の異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸が布帛において20質量%以上含まれていることが好ましい。20質量%以上であると無着色部が識別でき、霜降り調としての効果が得られる。   The knitted or knitted fabric using the metachromatic multifilament yarn of the present invention may be combined with other fibers by knitting, knitting, knitting or the like, and the multicolored multifilament yarn of the present invention is 20 in the fabric. It is preferable that it is contained by mass% or more. An uncolored part can be identified as it is 20 mass% or more, and the effect as a marbling tone is acquired.

なお各評価は以下の方法に従った。
(繊度)
JIS L−1015(参考法:振動法) に従い、自動繊度測定器(LENZING社製 VIBROSKOP400)を用いて測定した。
In addition, each evaluation followed the following method.
(Fineness)
According to JIS L-1015 (reference method: vibration method), it measured using the automatic fineness measuring device (VIBROSKOP400 by LENZING).

(布帛の異色特性)
布帛の異色特性は目視にて評価する。評価方法は、前記布帛を、セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントを無染、前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントを黒色染色し、無着色部の多さを目視判定する。例えばポリエステル繊維やセルロースアセテート繊維等の分散染料可染型繊維の場合、分散染料(Dianix Black TA・N200%、三菱化成ヘキスト社製)を12質量%対繊維質量、染色助剤(DISPER TL 明成化学社製) 0.5g/リットル及び(URTRA MT−N2、大和化学社製)0.5g/リットル、加工温度130℃×時間60分の条件下で黒色に染色する。
(Different color characteristics of fabric)
The different color characteristics of the fabric are evaluated visually. In the evaluation method, the fabric is undyed with cellulosic fiber multifilament, long fiber multifilament having a different dyeability from the cellulosic fiber multifilament is dyed black, and the number of uncolored portions is visually determined. . For example, in the case of disperse dyeable fibers such as polyester fiber and cellulose acetate fiber, 12% by weight of disperse dye (Dianix Black TA · N 200%, manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Hoechst Co., Ltd.), fiber mass, and dyeing assistant (DISPER TL Meisei Chemical) (Made by company) 0.5g / l and (URTRA MT-N2, Daiwa Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5g / l, dyeing | staining black on the conditions of processing temperature 130 degreeC x time 60 minutes.

以下、実施例をあげて本発明を説明する。   Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples.

水酸基の80.3%が酢酸化されているセルロースジアセテートを塩化メチレン/メタノールの混合溶剤に溶解し、固形分濃度が22.1質量%の紡糸原液を調製した。この紡糸原液を公知の乾式紡糸装置により紡糸を行い、30デシテックス(以下、Dtexと標記)7フィラメント(以下、fと標記)であるセルロースジアセテート繊維マルチフィラメント(以下、DAと標記)を得た。   Cellulose diacetate in which 80.3% of the hydroxyl groups are acetated was dissolved in a mixed solvent of methylene chloride / methanol to prepare a spinning dope having a solid content concentration of 22.1% by mass. This spinning dope was spun by a known dry spinning apparatus to obtain cellulose diacetate fiber multifilament (hereinafter referred to as DA) which is 30 decitex (hereinafter referred to as Dtex) 7 filament (hereinafter referred to as f). .

得られた繊維とセルローストリアセテート繊維マルチフィラメント(三菱レイヨン株式会社製、60Dtex15f(以下、TAと標記))にS撚り合撚600T/M(撚り係数:5692)を施し、DAが33質量%、TAが67質量%から成る繊度90Dtexの合撚糸を得た。得られた合撚糸を下記の織物条件で経および緯に用いた織物を製織した。   The obtained fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber multifilament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 60Dtex15f (hereinafter referred to as TA)) are subjected to S twisting and twisting 600T / M (twisting coefficient: 5692), DA is 33% by mass, TA A twisted yarn having a fineness of 90 Dtex consisting of 67% by mass was obtained. A woven fabric using the obtained twisted yarn for warp and weft was woven under the following fabric conditions.

織物条件 組織:平織物
経密度:65羽/3本入れ
通し巾:140cm
緯密度:74本/2.54cm
引き続き、下記のアルカリ処理条件下で液流減量機にてアルカリ処理を実施した。アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は25質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維には変化が無かった。
Textile conditions Tissue: Plain fabric
Warp density: 65 / three
Width: 140cm
Weft density: 74 / 2.54cm
Subsequently, alkali treatment was performed with a liquid flow weight reducer under the following alkali treatment conditions. After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 25% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber.

アルカリ処理条件
アルカリの種類:水酸化ナトリウム
濃度:10g/L
処理温度、時間:60℃×30分
アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で分散染料(Dianix Black TA・N200%、三菱化成ヘキスト社製)を12質量%対繊維質量、染色助剤(DISPER TL、明成化学社製) 0.5g/リットル及び(URTRA MT−N2、大和化学社製)0.5g/リットル、加工温度130℃×時間60分の条件下で黒色に染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾119cm、緯密度83本/2.54cmの織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有する繊細な霜降り調の布帛であった。
Alkaline treatment conditions
Type of alkali: Sodium hydroxide
Concentration: 10 g / L
Treatment temperature, time: 60 ° C. × 30 minutes Fabric treated after alkali treatment with a flow dyeing machine, disperse dye (Dianix Black TA · N 200%, manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Hoechst) 12% by mass, fiber mass, and dyeing aid (DISPER) TL, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / liter and (URTRA MT-N2, manufactured by Yamato Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / liter, processed at a processing temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 minutes, and then dyed black, and cellulose A woven fabric having a finish width of 119 cm and a weft density of 83 fibers / 2.54 cm, which was not dyed with the system fibers, was obtained. The obtained woven fabric was a delicate marbling-like fabric having moderately uncolored portions.

実施例1に記載のDAと、ポリエステル繊維マルチフィラメント(三菱レイヨン株式会社製、84Dtex36f)にS撚り合撚600T/M(撚係数:6406)を施し、セルロースジアセテート繊維が26質量%、ポリエステル繊維が74質量%からなる繊度114デシテックスの合撚糸を得た。 DA and the polyester fiber multifilament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 84Dtex36f) are subjected to S twisting and twisting 600T / M (twisting coefficient: 6406), the cellulose diacetate fiber is 26% by mass, the polyester fiber Yielded a double twisted yarn having a fineness of 114 dtex and comprising 74 mass%.

得られた合撚糸を下記の条件下で経および緯に用いた織物を製織し実施例1に記載のアルカリ処理条件にてアルカリ処理を実施した。アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は19質量%であった。また、ポリエステル繊維には変化が無かった。   The resulting twisted yarn was woven using a warp and a weft under the following conditions and subjected to alkali treatment under the alkali treatment conditions described in Example 1. After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 19% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the polyester fiber.

織物条件 組織:平織物
経密度:58羽/3本入れ
通し巾:140cm
緯密度:65本/2.54cm
アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1と同様に黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾115cm、緯密度73本/2.54cmの織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有する繊細な霜降り調の布帛であった。
Textile conditions Tissue: Plain fabric
Warp density: 58 / three
Width: 140cm
Weft density: 65 / 2.54cm
The fabric after the alkali treatment was subjected to black dyeing using a liquid dyeing machine in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric having a finished width of 115 cm without cellulosic fibers and a weft density of 73 / 2.54 cm. The obtained woven fabric was a delicate marbling-like fabric having moderately uncolored portions.

水酸基の97%が酢酸化されているセルローストリアセテートの紡糸原液と、実施例1に記載のセルロースジアセテートの紡糸原液とを隣り合う紡糸錘にてそれぞれ公知の乾式紡糸装置により紡糸を行い、60Dtex15fであるTAにエアー交絡にて絡みを加え、30Dtex7fであるDAを引き揃えて複合糸を得た後、S撚Tw=600T/M(撚係数:5692)の追撚糸とした。   The spinning solution of cellulose triacetate in which 97% of the hydroxyl groups are acetic acid and the spinning solution of cellulose diacetate described in Example 1 were each spun by a known dry spinning apparatus with an adjacent spinning spindle, and at 60 Dtex15f Tangle was added to a certain TA by air entanglement to obtain a composite yarn by aligning DA of 30 Dtex7f, and then a twisted yarn of S twist Tw = 600 T / M (twist coefficient: 5692) was obtained.

得られた追撚糸を実施例1に記載の条件にて製織、アルカリ処理を実施した。アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は25質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維には変化が無かった。 The obtained twisted yarn was subjected to weaving and alkali treatment under the conditions described in Example 1. After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 25% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾119cm、緯密度83本/2.54cmの織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有し、実施例1よりやや強調された霜降り調を有する布帛であった。   The fabric after the alkali treatment was subjected to black dyeing by the method described in Example 1 using a liquid dyeing machine to obtain a woven fabric having a finish width of 119 cm and a weft density of 83 / 2.54 cm in which the cellulosic fibers were not dyed. . The obtained woven fabric was a fabric having moderately uncolored portions and having a marbling tone slightly emphasized from Example 1.

実施例3で得られた引き揃え複合糸と33Dtex12fのサイドバイサイド型ポリエステル複合繊維マルチフィラメント(三菱レイヨン製)とに合撚を施し、撚り数1600T/M(撚係数:17745)のS撚糸の合撚糸およびZ撚糸の合撚糸を得た。 The aligned composite yarn obtained in Example 3 and 33Dtex12f side-by-side type polyester composite fiber multifilament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon) are twisted together, and the S twisted yarn having a twist number of 1600 T / M (twisting coefficient: 17745) is obtained. And Z twisted yarns were obtained.

得られたそれぞれの合撚糸を下記の条件で経および緯にS、Z撚糸合撚糸を2本交互に用いた織物を製織し、実施例1に記載のあるアルカリ処理条件下で液流減量機にてアルカリ処理を実施した。   Each of the obtained twisted yarns is woven with a fabric using two S and Z twisted twisted yarns alternately in the warp and weft under the following conditions, and the liquid flow weight loss machine under the alkali treatment conditions described in Example 1 The alkali treatment was carried out.

織物条件 組織:経二重織り
経密度:45羽/4本入れ
通し巾:140cm
緯密度:84本/2.54cm
アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は18質量%となった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維及び、ポリエステル繊維には変化が無かった。
Textile conditions Organization: Warp double weave
Warp density: 45 / four
Width: 140cm
Weft density: 84 / 2.54cm
After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 18% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber and the polyester fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾85cm、緯密度107本/2.54cmの霜降り調織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有する繊細な霜降り調の色調であった。   The fabric after the alkali treatment is black dyed by the method described in Example 1 using a liquid dyeing machine, and a marbled woven fabric having a finished width of 85 cm and a density of 107 wefts / 2.54 cm without any cellulosic fibers is obtained. Obtained. The obtained woven fabric had a delicate marbling tone with moderately uncolored parts.

DAとして、17Dtex4f、TAとして、67Dtex16fを同供給率にてエアー交絡処理し、84Dtex20fの複合マルチフィラメント糸とした。前記複合マルチフィラメント糸にポリエステル繊維マルチフィラメント33Dtex12fを合糸し、村田機械社製ダブルツイスターDT310−Cタイプを使用しS撚、及びZ撚方向にそれぞれTw=1400T/M(撚係数:15143)の撚糸を施し、バキュームヒートセッターを用い70℃の雰囲気温度にて40分間の撚止めセットを行い、125Dtex34fの合撚糸を得た。   17Dtex4f as DA and 67Dtex16f as TA were air entangled at the same supply rate to obtain a composite multifilament yarn of 84Dtex20f. Polyester fiber multifilament 33Dtex12f was combined with the composite multifilament yarn, and double twister DT310-C type made by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was used, and Tw = 1400T / M (twisting factor: 15143) in the S twist and Z twist directions, respectively. Twisted yarn was applied, and a twisted set for 40 minutes was performed at an atmospheric temperature of 70 ° C. using a vacuum heat setter to obtain a 125 Dtex34f twisted yarn.

得られた前記合撚糸を織物の経糸及び緯糸としてS撚及びZ撚の配列が2本交互即ち、SSZZSSZZ・・・・となるようにして平織組織に製織した。実施例1に記載のあるアルカリ処理条件下で液流減量機にてアルカリ処理を実施した。アルカリ処理後、DAは10Dtex4fのセルロース系繊維となっており、合撚糸中のセルロース系マルチフィラメントの混率は9質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維及び、ポリエステル繊維には変化が無かった。   The obtained twisted yarn was woven into a plain weave structure so that two S-twist and Z-twist arrangements were alternated, that is, SSZZSSZZ. The alkali treatment was carried out with a liquid flow reducer under the alkali treatment conditions described in Example 1. After the alkali treatment, DA was a 10Dtex4f cellulosic fiber, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic multifilament in the twisted yarn was 9% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber and the polyester fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の経105本/吋、緯70本/吋の霜降調織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有し、得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有する繊細な霜降り調の色調であった。   The fabric after the alkali treatment is subjected to black dyeing by the method described in Example 1 using a liquid dyeing machine to obtain a frosted fabric having a cellulosic fiber of undyed and having a warp of 105/105 and 70 weft / 吋. It was. The obtained woven fabric had moderately uncolored portions, and the obtained woven fabric had a delicate marbling tone with moderately uncolored portions.

(比較例1)
実施例1と同様に60Dtex15fであるDAを得た。
(Comparative Example 1)
DA which is 60 Dtex15f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

得られたDAと、TA(三菱レイヨン株式会社製、60Dtex15f)にS撚りTw=600T/M(撚係数:6573)を施し、DAが50質量%、TAが50質量%からなる繊度120Dtex30fの合撚糸を得た。   The obtained DA and TA (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 60Dtex15f) are subjected to S twist Tw = 600T / M (twisting coefficient: 6573), and the combination of DA of 50% by mass and TA of 50D by mass of 120Dtex30f. A twisted yarn was obtained.

得られた合撚糸を下記の条件で経および緯に用いた織物を製織し実施例1に記載のあるアルカリ処理条件にてアルカリ処理を施した。   The obtained twisted yarn was woven using a warp and a weft under the following conditions and subjected to alkali treatment under the alkali treatment conditions described in Example 1.

織物条件 組織:平織物
経密度:56羽/3本入れ
通し巾:140cm
緯密度:64本/2.54cm
アルカリ処理後、DAは40Dtex15fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は40質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維には変化が無かった。
Textile conditions Tissue: Plain fabric
Warp density: 56 / three
Width: 140cm
Weft density: 64 / 2.54cm
After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 40Dtex15f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 40% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾118cm、緯密度72本/2.54cmの織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を過度に有し、繊細さに欠けた色調であった。   The fabric after the alkali treatment was subjected to black dyeing using a liquid dyeing machine by the method described in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric having a finished width of 118 cm and a weft density of 72 / 2.54 cm, in which cellulosic fibers were not dyed. . The obtained woven fabric had an uncolored portion excessively and had a color lacking in fineness.

(比較例2)
実施例1と同様に30Dtex7fであるDAを得た。
(Comparative Example 2)
DA which is 30Dtex7f was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

得られたDAと、TA(三菱レイヨン株式会社製、60Dtex15f)にS撚りTw=300T/M(撚り係数:3286)を施し、DAが33質量%、TAが67質量%からなる繊度90Dtex22fの合撚糸を得た。   The obtained DA and TA (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 60Dtex15f) are subjected to S twist Tw = 300T / M (twisting coefficient: 3286), and DA is 33% by mass and TA is 67% by mass. A twisted yarn was obtained.

得られた合撚糸を実施例1に記載の織物条件で織物を製織、アルカリ処理を実施した。   The resulting twisted yarn was woven with the fabric conditions described in Example 1 and subjected to alkali treatment.

アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は25質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維には変化が無かった。   After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 25% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾120cm、緯密度83本/2.54cmの織物を得た。得られた織物は無着色部を適度に有するものであったが、色調にムラがあり繊細さに欠けたものであった。   The fabric after the alkali treatment was subjected to black dyeing by the method described in Example 1 using a liquid dyeing machine to obtain a woven fabric having a finish width of 120 cm and a weft density of 83 / 2.54 cm, in which the cellulosic fibers were not dyed. . The obtained woven fabric had moderately uncolored portions, but was uneven in color tone and lacked delicateness.

(比較例3)
実施例4と同様の方法で、撚り数を、Tw=2600T/M(撚係数:28835)に変更し、S撚糸の合撚糸およびZ撚糸の合撚糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 3)
In the same manner as in Example 4, the number of twists was changed to Tw = 2600 T / M (twisting coefficient: 28835), and S twisted yarn and Z twisted yarn were obtained.

得られたそれぞれの合撚糸を実施例4に記載の織物条件で織物を製織、アルカリ処理を実施した。   Each of the obtained twisted yarns was woven with the fabric conditions described in Example 4 and subjected to alkali treatment.

アルカリ処理後、DAは20Dtex7fのセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとなり、合撚糸中のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率は18質量%であった。また、セルローストリアセテート繊維及び、ポリエステル繊維には変化が無かった。   After the alkali treatment, DA became a cellulosic fiber multifilament of 20 Dtex7f, and the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament in the twisted yarn was 18% by mass. Moreover, there was no change in the cellulose triacetate fiber and the polyester fiber.

アルカリ処理後の布帛を液流染色機で実施例1に記載の方法で、黒色染色加工を行い、セルロース系繊維が無染の仕上げ巾88cm、緯密度110本/2.54cmの織物を得た。   The fabric after the alkali treatment was subjected to black dyeing by the method described in Example 1 using a liquid dyeing machine to obtain a woven fabric having a finish width of 88 cm and a weft density of 110 pieces / 2.54 cm without cellulosic fibers. .

得られた織物は無着色部を有する繊細な霜降り調の色調であったが、風合いが硬く衣料用としては不適なものであった。   The resulting woven fabric had a delicate marbling tone with uncolored parts, but the texture was hard and unsuitable for clothing.

Claims (4)

セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントと、前記セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントとからなる複合マルチフィラメント糸で、以下の2つの条件を満たす異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸。
・セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満
・セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントの混率が5質量%以上30質量%以下
A composite multifilament yarn comprising a cellulose fiber multifilament and a long fiber multifilament having a dyeability different from that of the cellulosic fiber multifilament and satisfying the following two conditions.
・ The fineness of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex ・ The mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber multifilament is 5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less
請求項1に記載の異染性複合マルチフィラメント糸を用いた織編物。   A woven or knitted fabric using the metachromatic multi-filament yarn according to claim 1. 以下の(1)〜(4)の工程を順に施す織編物の製造方法。
(1) アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントと、前記アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントが工程(4)でアルカリ処理されて得られるセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントを、複合マルチフィラメント糸とする工程、
(2) 前記複合マルチフィラメント糸に下記式を満足する撚りを施す工程
撚数Tw(回/m);5000/√Dtex≦Tw≦27000/√Dtex
(但し、Dtexは複合マルチフィラメント糸の総繊度を示すものである。)
(3) 前記複合マルチフィラメント糸を用いて織編物とする工程、
(4) 前記織編物をアルカリ処理し、アセテート系繊維マルチフィラメントを、繊度が5デシテックス以上、25デシテックス未満のセルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとする工程
The manufacturing method of the woven / knitted fabric which performs the process of the following (1)-(4) in order.
(1) An acetate fiber multifilament and a long fiber multifilament having a different dyeability from a cellulose fiber multifilament obtained by alkali treatment of the acetate fiber multifilament in the step (4) The process of making yarn,
(2) Step of twisting the composite multifilament yarn satisfying the following formula: Twist number Tw (times / m); 5000 / √Dtex ≦ Tw ≦ 27000 / √Dtex
(However, Dtex indicates the total fineness of the composite multifilament yarn.)
(3) a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric using the composite multifilament yarn,
(4) A step of subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to an alkali treatment to convert the acetate fiber multifilament into a cellulosic fiber multifilament having a fineness of 5 dtex or more and less than 25 dtex.
工程(1)に先立って以下の工程(0)を施す請求項3に記載の織編物の製造方法。
(0)セルロース系繊維マルチフィラメントとは染色性を異にする長繊維マルチフィラメントをエアー交絡または撚糸を施す
The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the following step (0) is performed prior to the step (1).
(0) Air entangled or twisted long-fiber multifilaments that differ in dyeability from cellulosic fiber multifilaments
JP2007100655A 2006-04-07 2007-04-06 Metachromatic composite multifilament yarn, woven / knitted fabric using the same, and method for producing woven / knitted fabric Expired - Fee Related JP4833141B2 (en)

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0314674A (en) * 1989-06-08 1991-01-23 Tosuko Kk Cellulosic fiber material having flexibility
JPH06306764A (en) * 1993-03-31 1994-11-01 Teijin Ltd Chemical fiber-synthetic fiber composite web
JPH1072741A (en) * 1996-08-28 1998-03-17 Toyobo Co Ltd Doubled filament woven fabric and its production
JP2004197275A (en) * 2002-12-19 2004-07-15 Toray Ind Inc Conjugate fiber and conjugate fiber structure

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0314674A (en) * 1989-06-08 1991-01-23 Tosuko Kk Cellulosic fiber material having flexibility
JPH06306764A (en) * 1993-03-31 1994-11-01 Teijin Ltd Chemical fiber-synthetic fiber composite web
JPH1072741A (en) * 1996-08-28 1998-03-17 Toyobo Co Ltd Doubled filament woven fabric and its production
JP2004197275A (en) * 2002-12-19 2004-07-15 Toray Ind Inc Conjugate fiber and conjugate fiber structure

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