JP2007204859A - Garment - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a garment excellent in abrasion resistance and lightweight feeling. <P>SOLUTION: The garment is formed of woven fabric comprising blended yarns of polyphenylene sulfide fibers and other fibers. The cover factor of a body-length direction yarn is 7,000-7,700, and that of a body-width direction yarn is 5,000-6,150. The cover factor in each direction is defined by the following formula: the cover factor = [the fineness of the yarn in the corresponding direction (dtex)]<SP>1/2</SP>× the density of the yarn in the corresponding direction (the number of yarns/10 cm). <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a garment having excellent wear resistance and wear lightness at the cuffs and thighs and having heat retention.

  Of the traditional clothing items, the performance required for work clothes is focused on durability, such as ease of tearing, “rubbing” or “tekari,” ease of movement, and lightweight comfort. The product has been designed.

  Especially for clothes used in government offices, schools, banks, public corporations, or private convenience stores, in recent years, we have reviewed natural materials that do not use recycled materials and fossil materials in consideration of the global environment and energy conservation. Has been planned.

  In the case of winter clothes for general clothing, there is a strong demand for new materials that have high heat retention and ultimately lead to energy savings, while there is a strong demand for long-lasting materials with excellent wear resistance in work clothes. Yes.

  At present, materials that are mainly made of wool are still used for winter luxury products, while materials that are blended with polyester and acrylic are mainly used for popular products.

  The former luxury product is mainly made of wool and has heat retention and flame retardancy, but lacks lightness, while the latter popular product is mainly made of polyester and the like, but has durability but heat retention and flame resistance. There are problems with each material, such as lack of nature and the texture is “hard”.

  In view of this, there have been proposals for manufacturing methods and products that improve the heat retention, flame retardancy, durability, and the like particularly required for work clothes.

  For example, a blended yarn of polyphenylene sulfide fiber (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as PPS) and other fibers is used for a thin fabric or sock to have excellent heat retention, heat resistance, and flame resistance. Although it has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 1), there is no technical suggestion for improving wear resistance and lightness.

  In addition, it has been proposed to use a blended yarn of PPS and other fibers for the lining, and to have excellent heat retention and light fastness (see, for example, Patent Document 2). There is no technical suggestion to improve.

  Further, it has been proposed that fluff and loops are imparted to PPS, and a mixed yarn of other fibers is used for the blanket to have excellent heat retention (see, for example, Patent Document 3). There is no technical suggestion to improve the feeling of lightness.

  In addition, it has been proposed that a double weave of PPS and bamboo rayon is used for women's fabric to have excellent heat retention and moisture absorption (see, for example, Patent Document 4). There is no technical suggestion about feeling.

In this way, clothes that make use of the features such as heat retention, flame retardancy, and heat resistance, which are one of the functionalities of PPS materials, have been proposed as they are. No proposal has been made to improve the lightweight feel.
JP 2001-55640 A JP 2003-278017 A JP 2003-339503 A JP 2004-244786 A

  The subject of this invention is providing the clothes excellent in abrasion resistance and a lightweight feeling in view of the background of the prior art which concerns.

That is, the present invention is a garment having a woven fabric using a blended yarn of polyphenylene sulfide fiber and other fibers, and the cover factor of the thread in the height direction is 7000-7700, and the cover factor of the thread in the width direction is It is clothes characterized by being 5000-6150.
However, the cover factor in each direction is defined by the following equation.
Cover factor = {(fineness of yarn in that direction (dtex)) ^1/2 × density of yarn in that direction (lines / 10 cm)

  According to the present invention, in the slacks of clothes, the abrasion between the inner sides of the thigh, which is referred to as “crotch misalignment”, has a high dyeing friction fastness, so that it is less whitened. It is possible to make a garment with less durability.

  In addition, according to the present invention, by blending PPS fibers, the fabric weight is reduced while maintaining heat retention and fabric thickness, and a so-called lightweight feeling can be obtained. It can be.

  Furthermore, since PPS is blended, the bending hardness of the fabric is softened, and the ease of movement of wearing is further facilitated.

  The garment of the present invention has a blended yarn of polyphenylene sulfide fibers and other fibers. By blending PPS fibers, the fabric weight can be reduced while maintaining heat retention and fabric thickness, that is, a lightweight feel can be obtained, and the bending hardness of the fabric becomes soft, making it easy to move and comfortable to wear. It is possible to make clothes with excellent feeling.

  Further, wear resistance is improved by blending PPS fibers. If the fiber is too low or too high in rigidity, good abrasion resistance cannot be obtained. For example, if the rigidity is too low, the strength will be weak, so that it will break from the place where friction occurs and will be easily worn. On the other hand, if the rigidity is too high, stress concentrates on the place where friction occurs, and whitening tends to occur. In this respect, the PPS fiber has an appropriate rigidity, and by blending the PPS fiber, the stress due to friction can be dispersed while having the strength to withstand friction, so that the wear resistance can be improved.

  The single fiber fineness of the PPS fiber blended in the spun yarn is preferably 0.5 to 8.0 dtex, more preferably 1.0 to 3.0 dtex. By setting it within this range, it is possible to obtain a good spinnability by blending with other fibers in a well-balanced manner. Moreover, it can prevent that a texture becomes extremely soft by setting it as 0.5 dtex or more, and can prevent a texture from becoming hard by setting it as 8.0 dtex or less.

  The average fiber length of the PPS fibers is preferably 30 to 100 mm, more preferably 35 to 80 mm. If the fiber length is less than 30 mm, the strength of the blended yarn will be low, the spinnability will be low, and if the fiber length exceeds 100 mm, the short fiber yarn will protrude from the spun yarn for a long time, and pilling and yarn unevenness are likely to occur. Absent.

  The partner fiber to be blended with the PPS fiber is preferably at least one kind of short fiber selected from wool, cotton, silk, polyester fiber, polyamide fiber such as nylon, acrylic fiber, rayon fiber, etc. It is good to select suitably according to a use or desired texture. For example, when the blending ratio of polyester is increased, the texture tends to be hard, and when the blending ratio of polyamide is increased, the texture of elasticity and waist tends to be soft.

  Moreover, you may employ | adopt combining multiple types as a partner fiber to mix. For example, combinations of wool, polyester, nylon, wool, polyester, acrylic, wool, polyester, rayon, and the like can be given. Among these, it is preferable from the viewpoint of cost and physical properties to combine mainly wool with polyester, polyamide and the like.

  It is also preferable to blend carbon-containing fibers from the viewpoint of preventing static electricity.

  The blending rate of the PPS fibers in the blended yarn is preferably 3 to 50% by mass, more preferably 5 to 30% by mass. The effect of improving the wear resistance can be obtained by setting it to 3% by mass or more, and the deterioration of the wear resistance due to excessive PPS blending can be prevented by setting it to 50% by mass or less.

  When the garment of the present invention is made of slacks or contains slacks, the blending rate of PPS fibers in the slack width direction yarn may be equal to or higher than the blending rate of PPS fibers in the slack width direction yarn. More preferably, the blending rate of the PPS fiber in the yarn in the body height direction exceeds the blending rate of the PPS fiber in the yarn in the width direction. In the case of slacks, “crotch misalignment” is particularly a problem with respect to friction, but in crotch misalignment, friction between slacks in the length direction of the slacks is dominant, so PPS fibers should be preferentially placed on the length direction threads. Thus, the wear resistance can be effectively improved.

  Further, when the garment of the present invention has a cuff, it is preferable that the blend ratio of the PPS fiber in the thread around the cuff of the cuff is equal to or greater than the blend ratio of the PPS fiber in the thread in the longitudinal direction of the cuff, More preferably, the blending rate of the PPS fibers in the yarn around the cuffs exceeds the blending rate of the PPS fibers in the yarns in the longitudinal direction of the cuffs. In cuff wear, friction between the thread around the cuff and the desk, etc. is dominant. Therefore, wear resistance is effectively improved by preferentially placing PPS fibers in the thread around the cuff. Can do.

  In addition, with respect to other parts of the garment of the present invention, generally, it is preferable that the blending rate of the PPS fibers in the yarn in the length direction is equal to or more than the blending rate of the PPS fibers in the yarn in the width direction, and more preferably in the height direction. The blending rate of the PPS fiber in the yarn of this length exceeds the blending rate of the PPS fiber in the yarn in the width direction. Overall, the friction between the yarns in the length direction tends to be dominant, so that the wear resistance can be effectively improved by preferentially arranging the PPS fibers on the yarn in the height direction. Because.

  A particularly preferred combination is that the PPS blending prevention rate of the yarn in the length direction is 10 to 30% by mass, and the PPS blending rate of the yarn in the width direction is 5 to 20% by mass.

  The garment of the present invention has a woven fabric using the blended yarn as described above.

  Further, for example, it is preferable to interweave carbon-containing fibers from the viewpoint of preventing static electricity.

  Plain weave, oblique weaving, satin weaving and the like can be adopted as the weaving structure, and in general medium-thick clothing, weave weaving (also called twill weave or twill) is suitable. Further, in the case of a texture having a structure in which one vertical / horizontal thread float is larger than the other thread float, such as a twill weave structure, as described above, By arranging the yarns in the direction in which there is a lot of lifting and preferentially arranging the PPS fibers, the PPS fibers are likely to appear on the surface, and the wear resistance can be improved more effectively.

In the garment of the present invention, it is important that the cover factor of the thread in the body height direction is 7000-7700, and the cover factor of the thread in the body width direction is 5000-6150.
However, the cover factor in each direction is defined by the following equation.
Cover factor = {(fineness of yarn in that direction (dtex)) ^1/2 × density of yarn in that direction (lines / 10 cm)
If the cover factor of the thread in the body length direction is 7000-7700 and the cover factor of the thread in the body width direction is 5000-6150, the bulkiness and texture are hardly affected even if the fabric weight is reduced, so that a lightweight feeling can be obtained. On the other hand, when the cover factor of the thread in the length direction is less than 7000 and the cover factor of the thread in the width direction is less than 5000, the weight per unit area can be reduced, but the feeling of thinness is likely to occur, and conversely the cover factor of the thread in the length direction Is larger than 7700, and when the cover factor of the thread in the width direction is larger than 6150, a feeling of ground thickness is likely to be obtained, and the basis weight is increased, so that it is difficult to obtain a lightweight feeling. In addition, if the cover factor of the yarn in the length direction is less than 7000, the fabric composition strength in the height direction of the fabric is too weak, the frictional properties are lowered, and the elasticity, waist, and texture of the clothes are too soft, If it exceeds 7700, the composition strength of the woven fabric becomes too strong, and the frictional properties are lowered, and the texture of the clothes and the feeling of waist become too hard.

  In sewing, the cuff fabric may be attached by wrapping the wrist and then folding it to the back side of the wrist and sewing the folded portion within 0.5 to 2.0 mm with a sewing machine.

  The dyeing process is preferably top dyeing that directly dyes raw cotton. Since wool is blended, the texture and color can be adjusted by performing post-processing such as shrinking and steaming peculiar to wool.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically based on examples. The evaluation method used in the present invention is as follows.

(1) Density Measured according to JIS L 1096: 1999 8.6.1 “Density of woven fabric”. The number of warp yarns and weft yarns at 5 different warp directions of 2.54 cm × width direction of 2.54 cm was counted, and an average value was calculated for each and converted into the number per 10 cm.

(2) Count (s)
Measured according to JIS L 1095: 1999. For the count display, a metric count was used according to Section 4.2 of the same standard.

(3) Fineness (dtex)
Based on JIS L 1013: 1999 8.3.1 A method, take 52.5 samples of small skeins for 112.5m, measure the mass, multiply the value (g) by 10000 / 112.5, and look The fineness (dtex) was determined. From the apparent fineness, a positive fineness was determined by the following formula, and an average value was calculated.
Positive fineness (dtex) = D ′ × (100 + Rc) / (100 + Re)
D ′: Apparent fineness (dtex)
Rc: Official moisture content (%)
Re: Equilibrium moisture content (%).

(4) Weight per unit (g / m ² )
JIS L1096: 1999 based on 8.4.2, a test piece of 20 cm × 20 cm and three collected, weighed mass (g) in each of the standard conditions, the average value per 1 m ² Weight (g / ^{m 2} )

(5) Cover factor Using the density value obtained in (1) above, the cover factor was calculated by the following equation.
Cover factor = {(fineness (dtex)) ^1/2 × density (lines / 10 cm).

(6) Wear strength (times)
Measured based on JIS L 1096: 1999 8.17.5 E method (Martindale method). Four test pieces having a diameter of 3.8 cm were collected, and a polyurethane foam sheet was stacked on the back surface of the test piece. This is attached to the sample holder of the Martindale abrasion tester, placed on a wear table that is pre-laminated with a standard wear cloth on a woven felt, and a 9.0 kPa pressure load is applied and rubbed in multiple directions to create fluff. The number of times until the end point by confirming the occurrence of was measured, and the average value of 4 times was calculated.

(7) Fastness to dyeing friction and dryness (grade)
According to JIS L 0849: 2004, it measured using the friction tester type II (Gakushin type). A test piece of 22 cm × 3 cm was cut in the vertical direction, pre-dried, and left in a standard state at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a relative humidity of 65% for 4 hours. A test piece was mounted on a test piece base, a white cotton cloth for friction was attached to the tip of a friction piece, and a reciprocating friction was performed 100 times at a speed of 30 reciprocations per minute between 10 cm of the central portion of the test piece with a load of 2N. Judgment was made by a visual method compared with a gray scale for color fading.

(8) Cloth-cloth friction fastness / dryness (grade)
This evaluates the degree of rubbing of the inner crotch portion of the slacks, that is, the degree of whitening of the “thigh misalignment”. JIS L 1096: 1999 8.17 “Abrasion Strength” Using a sag tester used in Method B (Scott-type method), samples are cut into 6 cm × 8.5 cm to produce two samples. A contact pressure of 1 kg was applied to both samples, a 6000 reciprocation treatment was performed at a stroke of 6 cm and a speed of 120 reciprocations / minute, and a grade was determined according to the evaluation method for dyeing friction fastness. At this time, the sample is attached in a direction in which the warp yarns are in contact with each other in the same direction, and is subjected to a reciprocation process in the same direction as the weft yarn.

(9) Cuff friction fastness and dryness (grade)
The degree of wear of the cuffs of the outer garment, that is, the degree of “fraying” that the cuffs rub on the desk is evaluated. Dyeing by performing frosting friction test for 40 seconds (rotation speed 1000 times / 11 minutes) while applying abrasive paper (roughness: P1500) with contact pressure of 750g on the double-turned seam by ART method (Appearance retention type) Judgment was made according to the evaluation method of friction fastness. At this time, the cuff is sewn in the same direction as the direction of winding the arm and the direction of the warp of the fabric, the cuff is folded inward, and the seam of 5 stitches / cm is located at the bent part 1 mm. It was typed in.

(10) Feeling of wearing A sensory test was conducted by five testers, and evaluation was performed according to the following criteria.
Texture: Grade 5 (soft), Grade 3 (intermediate), Grade 1 (hard)
Activity: Grade 5 (easy to move), Grade 3 (intermediate), Grade 1 (hard to move).

  (11) The display of the twill structure is expressed in accordance with JIS L 1096, Section 8.1.1.

[Example 1]
(Vertical yarn)
Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm Top-dyed, blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.9% by mass, 13.7% by mass, and 22.4% by mass, and processed by twin yarn processing in the S direction. Yarn A1 was produced.

(Horizontal thread)
A polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a nylon fiber having a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 53.8 mass% and 46.2 mass respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce 1 / 69.4 blended yarn B1.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm polyethylene terephthalate fiber are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 78.6% by mass and 21.4% by mass, respectively. A blended yarn C1 having a count of 1 / 60.1 was produced.

  The blended yarn B1 and the blended yarn C1 were combined and twisted in the S direction to form a twin yarn, thereby producing a blended yarn D1 having a count of 2/64.

  Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm And blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.7% by mass, 14.1% by mass and 22.2% by mass, respectively, to produce a blended yarn E1 having a count of 1 / 30.6.

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A1 as the warp yarn and one blended yarn D1 and blended yarn E1 as the warp yarn alternately, a fabric having a twill structure (3/2) was produced with a rapier loom.

(Finishing process)
After that, the raw machine was finished in the same manner as normal wool finishing, such as shrinking, setting, water repellency, and finishing.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric. At that time, the warp yarn direction of the woven fabric is the height direction, and the weft yarn direction is the width direction. In the cuffs, the warp yarn direction of the woven fabric is the cuff circumference direction, and the weft yarn direction is the longitudinal direction of the cuff.

[Example 2]
(Vertical yarn)
Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm Top-dyed, blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.5% by mass, 21.9% by mass, and 14.6% by mass, respectively, processed by twin yarn in the S direction, and blended with count 2 / 61.2 Yarn A2 was produced.

(Horizontal thread)
Nylon fiber having a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm and polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, 52.8% by mass and 47.2% by mass, respectively. The blended yarn B2 having a count of 1 / 68.9 was manufactured by blending in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of%.

  Wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and polyethylene terephthalate fiber are each top-dyed in dark blue and blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 74.0% by mass and 26.0% by mass, respectively. A mixed yarn C2 having a count of 1 / 61.3 was produced.

  The blended yarn B2 and the blended yarn C2 were combined and twisted in the S direction to produce a blended yarn D2 having a count of 2/60.

  Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm And blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.7% by mass, 14.8% by mass and 21.3% by mass, respectively, to produce a blended yarn E2 having a count of 1 / 30.3.

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A2 as the warp yarn and one blended yarn D2 and blended yarn E2 as the warp yarn alternately, a fabric having a twill structure (3/2) was produced with a rapier loom.

(Finishing process)
The obtained raw machine was finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 1]
(Vertical yarn)
A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × a fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 73.6% by mass and 26.4% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction and double-spun in the S direction to produce a blended yarn A3 with a count of 2 / 53.16.

(Horizontal thread)
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a nylon fiber with a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, 54.6% by mass and 45.4% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce a blended yarn B3 with a count of 1 / 55.2.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are respectively top-dyed in dark blue, and 65.1% by mass and 34.9% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce 1 / 55.3 blended yarn C3.

  The blended yarn B3 and the blended yarn C3 were combined and twisted in the S direction to form a twin yarn, thereby producing a blended yarn D3 having a count of 2/55.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 72.4% by mass and 27.6% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction and double-spun in the S direction to produce a blended yarn E3 with count 2 / 53.3.

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A3 as the warp yarn and a blended yarn D3 and a blended yarn E3 alternately as the warp yarn, a twill (3/2) fabric was woven with a rapier loom.

(Finishing process)
The obtained raw machine was finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 2]
(Vertical yarn)
A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 73.1% by mass and 26.9% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction and double-spun in the S direction to produce a blended yarn A4 with a count of 2 / 54.3.

(Horizontal thread)
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a nylon fiber with a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, 53.5 mass% and 46.5 mass respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce a blended yarn B4 with a count of 1 / 54.3.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a short fiber of polyethylene terephthalate having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 74.6% by mass and 25.%, respectively. Blending was performed in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 4% by mass to produce a blended yarn C4 having a count of 1 / 54.0.

  The blended yarn B4 and the blended yarn C4 were combined and twisted in the S direction to form a twin yarn, thereby producing a blended yarn D4 having a count of 2 / 54.0.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 73.5% by mass and 26.5% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce a blended yarn E4 with a count of 2 / 54.6.

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A4 for the warp yarn and one blended yarn D4 and blended yarn E4 for the warp yarn alternately, a twill (3/2) fabric was produced on a rapier loom.

(Finishing process)
The obtained raw machine was finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1.

[Comparative Examples 3 and 4]
(Vertical yarn)
Wool with a thickness of 20 to 25 μm, a length of 3 to 6 cm, and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm, each in dark blue top Dyed, blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.9% by mass, 13.7% by mass, and 22.4% by mass, respectively, double-tipped in the S direction, and blended yarn A5 having a count of 2 / 60.6 Manufactured.

(Horizontal thread)
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a nylon fiber with a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, 53.8% by mass and 46.2% by mass, respectively. The blended yarn B5 having a count of 1 / 69.4 was produced.

  Wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm, a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and are respectively 78.6% by mass and 21.4% by mass. Blending was performed in the Z direction at a mixing ratio to produce a blended yarn C5 having a count of 1 / 60.1.

  The blended yarn B5 and the blended yarn C5 were combined and twisted in the S direction to form a twin yarn, thereby producing a blended yarn D5 having a count of 2/64.

  Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm And blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.7% by mass, 14.1% by mass and 22.2% by mass, respectively, to produce a blended yarn E5 having a count of 1 / 30.6.

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A5 as the warp yarn and a blended yarn D5 and a blended yarn E5 as the warp yarn alternately, a twill (3/2) fabric was produced on the rapier loom.
At this time, as Comparative Example 3, the number of warp yarns was changed from 420/10 cm to 360/10 cm, and the cover factor was changed from 7595 to 6510.
As Comparative Example 4, the number of warp yarns was changed from 420/10 cm to 470/10 cm, and the cover factor was changed from 7595 to 8500.

(Finishing process)
The obtained raw machine was finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1.

[Example 3]
(Vertical yarn)
Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm Top-dyed, blended in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.9% by mass, 22.0% by mass, and 14.1% by mass, respectively, processed by twin yarn in the S direction, and blended with count 2 / 61.8 Yarn A6 was produced.

(Horizontal thread)
Polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm and a nylon fiber with a single fiber fineness of 1.7 dtex × fiber length of 44 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, 53.8% by mass and 46.2% by mass, respectively. The blended yarn B6 having a count of 1 / 69.4 was manufactured in the Z direction.

  A wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm are each top-dyed in dark blue, and 78.6% by mass and 21.4% by mass, respectively. % Blended in the Z direction to produce a blended yarn C6 having a count of 1 / 60.1.

  The blended yarn B6 and the blended yarn C6 were combined and twisted in the S direction to produce a blended yarn D6 having a count of 2/64.

  Noodles of wool having a thickness of 20 to 25 μm and a length of 3 to 6 cm, a polyethylene terephthalate fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.8 dtex × fiber length of 64 mm, and a polyphenylene sulfide fiber having a single fiber fineness of 2.2 dtex × fiber length of 51 mm And mixed in the Z direction at a mixing ratio of 63.7% by mass, 2.3% by mass, and 34.0% by mass, respectively, to produce a single spun blend yarn E6 having a count of 1 / 30.0. .

(Weaving)
Using a blended yarn A6 as the warp yarn and one blended yarn D6 and blended yarn E6 as the warp yarn alternately, a twill (3/2) fabric was produced on a rapier loom.

(Finishing process)
The obtained raw machine was finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Sewing)
Outerwear and slacks for office work clothes were sewn from the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1.

  The warp and weft thread thicknesses shown in Tables 1, 2, and 3 are standardized to the hair count (metric type), and the weft count display is the average count of the two types used for the weft thread.

  In Example 1, the cover factor is slightly smaller and the basis weight is lighter than the comparative example 1 in which the PPS fiber is not blended by blending the PPS fiber, and the fabric-cloth friction fastness and the cuff friction fastness (vertical direction). It is a garment that is excellent in wearing and comfortable to wear.

  As in Example 1, Example 2 also has a slightly smaller cover factor, a lighter basis weight, excellent fabric-cloth friction fastness and cuff friction fastness (vertical direction), and is comfortable to wear. It is clothes.

  In Comparative Example 1, the PPS mixing ratio of the warp yarn and the weft yarn was zero, and compared to Example 1, the friction fastness was 3-4 grade and the cuff fastness (vertical) direction 3-4 grade was low.

  In Comparative Example 2, the PPS mixing ratio of the warp yarn and the weft yarn was zero, and compared with Example 2, the friction fastness was 3-4 grade and the cuff fastness (vertical) direction 3-4 grade was low.

  In Comparative Example 3, the cover factor of the warp yarn is less than 7000, but the friction fastness and the cuff fastness are both grade 3 and extremely low compared to the cover factor 7595 of the warp yarn of Example 1, The texture is too soft and not suitable for clothes.

  In Comparative Example 4, the cover factor of the warp yarn is set to be larger than 7700, but both the fastness to friction and the fastness to the cuffs are 3rd grade compared to the warp yarn having a cover factor of 7595 in Example 1. It is extremely low and the texture is too hard, so it is not suitable for clothes.

  Example 3 shows a case where the weight ratio of PPS blended into the warp yarn is small and the weight ratio of PPS blended into the weft yarn is small. Compared with the case where the weight ratio of PPS blended with the warp yarn of Example 1 is larger than the weight ratio of PPS blended with the weft yarn, dyeing and fabric-cloth friction fastness tend to be slightly lower.

  The garment of the present invention is suitable for uniforms of public offices and general office work clothes because it is excellent in wear resistance and light weight, and is suitable for outerwear for autumn and winter due to its warmth in medium thickness. .

Claims (4)

A garment having a woven fabric using a blended yarn of polyphenylene sulfide fiber and other fibers, and the cover factor of the yarn in the height direction is 7000-7700, and the cover factor of the yarn in the width direction is 5000-6150 Clothing characterized by that.
However, the cover factor in each direction is defined by the following equation.
Cover factor = {(fineness of yarn in that direction (dtex)) ^1/2 × density of yarn in that direction (lines / 10 cm) The garment according to claim 1, wherein the other fiber blended with the polyphenylene sulfide fiber is at least one selected from wool, cotton, silk, polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, acrylic fiber, and rayon fiber. The garment made of or including slacks, wherein the blend ratio of the polyphenylene sulfide fibers in the slack lengthwise yarn is equal to or greater than the blend ratio of the polyphenylene sulfide fibers in the slack widthwise yarn. clothes. The garment having a cuff, wherein the blend ratio of the polyphenylene sulfide fiber in the thread around the cuff of the cuff is equal to or greater than the blend ratio of the polyphenylene sulfide fiber in the thread in the longitudinal direction of the cuff. clothes.