JP2007131972A

JP2007131972A - Summer suit

Info

Publication number: JP2007131972A
Application number: JP2005325528A
Authority: JP
Inventors: Toshiharu Hara; 俊治原
Original assignee: LIOND OR KK; LIOND'OR KK
Current assignee: LIOND OR KK; LIOND'OR KK
Priority date: 2005-11-10
Filing date: 2005-11-10
Publication date: 2007-05-31
Anticipated expiration: 2025-11-10
Also published as: JP4260793B2

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a breathable summer suit provided with sleeve caps each having a beautiful silhouette. <P>SOLUTION: The summer suit 10 has no lining fabric for the lining of a sleeve, and is structured through the following process: a first process where an interlining material 24 for a shoulder pad 26 is made of film-less polyurethane foam, and the interlining material 24 is wrapped with a leno cloth having 20-30 meshes; and a second process where sagging-cotton interlining material 17 is obtained by placing the leno cloth having 20-30 meshes in a bias state, and the interlining material placed in a bias state is wrapped with a thin fabric 18. The shoulder pad 26 is formed so as to get gradually thinner toward both sides of the shoulder and an arm hole from a part to be placed on the shoulder. The sagging-cotton interlining material 17 is obtained by superimposing a plurality of interlining materials at their center parts, and reducing the number of the materials toward the periphery thereof. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

この発明は裏地のない夏物スーツに関する。 The present invention relates to an unlined summer suit.

夏物スーツの袖山の形状が滑らかな形状を画くようした先行技術として特許文献１，２に挙げるものがある。また、図６に示すように一般的なスーツ１０の袖１１と袖山１２の形状は、肩パット３０や垂れ綿１４は袖の裏地１３に包まれて外部から見えない状態である。 There are patent documents 1 and 2 as prior arts in which the shape of the sleeves of the summer suit has a smooth shape. Moreover, as shown in FIG. 6, the sleeve 11 and the sleeve mountain 12 of a general suit 10 are in a state in which the shoulder pad 30 and the sagging cotton 14 are wrapped in the sleeve lining 13 and cannot be seen from the outside.

また、外部から見えない状態であることもあって、従来の垂れ綿１４は図５に示すように２５〜３０メッシュ程度に織製した芯材１５を、袖山の中心では二枚重ねにし、周辺を一枚にして、さらにこれにフェルト１６を重ねたものを裸のまま用いていた。 In addition, since the conventional sagging cotton 14 is not visible from the outside, as shown in FIG. 5, the core material 15 woven to about 25 to 30 mesh is overlapped at the center of Sodeyama, and the periphery is unified. The sheet was further used with the felt 16 superimposed on it as it was.

また、肩パット３０は図８に示す如く、強撚りの糸を３０メッシュ程度に織製した芯材３１の上下にフェルト３２を重ね表面に薄布３３を被せミシンで押えたものを採用してきた。 Further, as shown in FIG. 8, a shoulder pad 30 has been adopted in which a felt 32 is overlapped on the top and bottom of a core material 31 woven of about 30 mesh, and a thin cloth 33 is covered on the surface and pressed by a sewing machine. .

特開平７−１５７９０７号公報（要約および選択図）JP 7-157907 A (summary and selection diagram)

特開平９−２１７２１５号公報（要約および選択図）Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-217215 (summary and selection diagram)

上記二つの先行技術は、いずれも夏物スーツにおいて肩パットの縁がスーツの表に現れるのを防止するものである。 Both of the above two prior arts prevent the edge of the shoulder pad from appearing on the front of the suit in a summer suit.

一方、地球温暖化現象のもとで夏物衣料を可能な限り薄くし、かぜ通しのよいものとする傾向が強く、袖全体に裏地のないスーツが求められており、これに応えて袖の裏地のないスーツを試作したが、肩パットや垂れ綿のシルエットがスーツの表面に現れて見栄えのわるいものとなった。 On the other hand, there is a strong tendency to make summer clothing as thin as possible under the global warming phenomenon and make it cool, and there is a demand for a suit with no lining on the entire sleeve. I made a prototype without a suit, but the silhouette of the shoulder pad and sagging cotton appeared on the surface of the suit and it looked nice.

また、肩パットとして使われてきた従来の素材では通気性が悪く、熱がこもって夏物衣料として好ましいものとはいえなかった。 In addition, the conventional material used as a shoulder pad has poor air permeability and is not preferable as a summer clothing due to heat accumulation.

上記状況に鑑みこの発明は、袖の裏地をなくして従来の夏ものスーツより一層通気性をよくして清涼感を高め、かつ、袖山の外形形状をなめらかなものとして高級感あふれる夏物スーツを提供することを課題とする。 In view of the above situation, the present invention provides a summer suit full of luxury by eliminating sleeve lining, improving breathability and improving the coolness of conventional summer suits, and making the outer shape of Sodeyama smooth. The task is to do.

上記課題を解決するためにこの発明は、第一に、肩パットの芯材を無膜ポリウレタンフォームとし、この芯材を、２０〜３０メッシュでからめ織りした布で包んでなり、第二に、垂れ綿の芯材を、２０〜３０メッシュでからめ織りした布をバイアス状に配置し、この芯材をバイアス状に配置した薄布で包み込んでなる構成としたものである。また、上記肩パットは、肩にのる部分から肩の両側および袖刳りに向けて次第に薄く成形し、垂れ綿の芯材は、その中心部分で複数枚重ね合わせ、周辺に向けて次第に枚数を減らしてなる。 In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention firstly forms a shoulder pad core material with a non-membrane polyurethane foam, and wraps the core material with a cloth woven by 20 to 30 mesh, and secondly, A fabric in which a core of sagging cotton is woven from 20 to 30 mesh is arranged in a bias shape, and this core material is wrapped with a thin fabric arranged in a bias shape. In addition, the shoulder pads are gradually formed thinly from the shoulder portion toward both sides of the shoulder and the sleeves, and a plurality of cores of sagging cotton are overlapped at the central portion, and the number is gradually increased toward the periphery. It will be reduced.

上記の如く構成するこの発明によれば、肩パットに上記素材を採用したので熱がこもらず清涼感がよくなり、垂れ綿の芯材を上記の如く特定して、この芯材を薄布で包み込むようにしたので、シルエットが滑らかになり高級感が得られ、商品をハンガーに掛けて陳列したときも表に皺が現れず丁寧な縫製による夏物スーツとしての評価を得られるようになった。 According to the present invention configured as described above, the above-mentioned material is adopted for the shoulder pad, so that the heat does not accumulate and the refreshing feeling is improved, the core material of the sagging cotton is specified as described above, and the core material is made of a thin cloth. Since it was wrapped, the silhouette became smooth and a high-class feeling was obtained, and when the product was hung on the hanger and displayed, no wrinkles appeared on the table, and it became possible to gain a reputation as a summer suit with careful sewing.

次にこの発明の実施の形態を、図１乃至図４を参照しながら説明する。図２に示すように、本発明では袖の裏地がなく、肩パット２６は、図４に示すように、芯材２４を無膜ポリウレタンフォームとし、この芯材２４を、経糸を綿１００％、緯糸をウールとレーヨンとの混紡糸として、２０〜３０メッシュでからめ織りした布２５で包んでいる。 Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. As shown in FIG. 2, in the present invention, there is no sleeve lining, and as shown in FIG. 4, the shoulder pad 26 has a core material 24 made of a non-film polyurethane foam, and the core material 24 is made of 100% cotton warp. The weft is wrapped with a cloth 25 woven by 20-30 mesh as a blended yarn of wool and rayon.

ここで、からめ織りとは、経糸を二本宛密にし、その経糸交差させ、それに緯糸を打ち込んで織製したものである。 Here, the knot weave is made by wefting two warps, crossing the warps and driving them into the weft.

上記肩パット２６は、図４（ｂ）に示すように、無膜ポリウレタンフォームの芯材２４の縁が一番内側にあり、これを包む片面の布２５ｂの縁がその外側に、他面の布２５ａの縁がさらに外側になるようにしている。 As shown in FIG. 4 (b), the shoulder pad 26 has the edge of the core material 24 of the non-membrane polyurethane foam on the innermost side, and the edge of the cloth 25b on one side enclosing it is on the outer side and on the other side. The edge of the cloth 25a is further outward.

上記無膜ポリウレタンフォームの芯材２４は、図４（ｂ）のように肩にのる部分から肩の両側および袖刳り部分に向けて次第に薄く成形し、公知の無膜処理を施して骨格のみを残したもので、１インチ当りのセルの数が１３〜２０個（ＪＩＳＫ６４００）あるものが実用的である。 As shown in FIG. 4B, the core material 24 of the non-film polyurethane foam is gradually formed thinly from the portion on the shoulder toward both sides of the shoulder and the sleeves, and only the skeleton is subjected to a known non-film treatment. It is practical that the number of cells per inch is 13 to 20 (JISK6400).

袖山１２に挿入される垂れ綿１４は図１に示すように、経糸を綿１００％、緯糸をウールとレーヨンとの混紡糸を用いて２０〜３０メッシュにからめ織りした布を芯材１７とし、中心部分を二枚重ね１７ａ、１７ｂにし、周辺を一枚１７ｂにし、この芯材１７をローンスレーキ１８で包み込むように縫製し、これを袖山１２に縫い合わせている。なお、上記垂れ綿が袖山に縫いつけられた状態を滑らかにするために、上記芯材１７、ローンスレーキ１８とも織目がバイアス状に配置している。 As shown in FIG. 1, the sagging cotton 14 to be inserted into the sleeve 12 has a core material 17 made of 100% cotton warp and a fabric in which wefts are woven into 20 to 30 mesh using a blended yarn of wool and rayon. The center portion is made into two layers 17a and 17b, the periphery is made into one piece 17b, and the core material 17 is sewn so as to be wrapped with the lone slake 18 and is sewn to the sleeve 12. In order to smooth the state in which the sagging cotton is sewed on the sleeve, the core material 17 and the lawn rake 18 are arranged with a weave in a bias shape.

上記実施例では垂れ綿１４の芯材１７は二枚を重ねただけであるが、三枚またはそれ以上重ねても良いが、その場合中心部分から周辺に向けて順に重ね枚数を少なくして段が付かずなだらかな傾斜にする。 In the above embodiment, the core material 17 of the sagging cotton 14 is only two stacked, but three or more cores 17 may be stacked, but in that case, the number of stacked sheets is decreased in order from the center to the periphery. Gently tilt without adding.

上袖２０と下袖２１の生地を縫い合わせた縁をバイアステープで押え縫いし、袖口２３のカフス側の縫い合わせ部分を折り返し縫い合わせる。このような縫い方にすることによって着衣の際の抵抗が少なくその部分の摩滅損傷を防止できる。 The edges of the upper sleeve 20 and the lower sleeve 21 are sewn together by pressing with a bias tape, and the cuff side stitched portion of the cuff 23 is folded back and sewn. By using such a sewing method, there is little resistance during clothing, and wear and tear damage at that portion can be prevented.

以上説明したようにこの発明によれば裏地のない夏物スーツでありながら袖山の部分のシルエットが滑らかで着衣状態、ハンガーに掛けて陳列した状態ともに高い技術で縫製されたものとして見られ、また、袖裏の裏地をなくし袖山の形成材を特定の素材とすることにより、より涼しく着衣することが出来るようになって省エネルギー効果とともに産業状利用価値の高いものとなる。 As described above, according to the present invention, it is seen that the silhouette of the sleeve portion is smooth and the clothes are sewed with high technology both in the clothing state and on the hanger. By eliminating the lining of the sleeve lining and making the forming material of the sleeve mountain into a specific material, it becomes possible to wear more coolly, and the energy-saving effect and the industrial utility value are high.

本発明に係る垂れ綿の部分剥ぎ取り平面図Partial peeling plan view of sagging cotton according to the present invention 同垂れ綿を縫い付けた状態の袖山部詳細図Detailed view of sleeve mountain with sewn cotton sewed 同カフス側袖口（裏面）詳細図Detail of the cuff side cuff (back) 同肩パットの（ａ）平面図、（ｂ）Ａ−Ａ断面図(A) Plan view of the shoulder pad, (b) AA sectional view 従来の垂れ綿の平面図Top view of conventional sagging cotton 従来の垂れ綿を縫い付けた状態の袖山部詳細図Detailed view of the sleeve crest in a state where conventional sagging cotton is sewed 従来のカフス側袖口（裏面）詳細図Detailed view of conventional cuff side cuff (back) 従来の肩パットの平面図Top view of a conventional shoulder pad

Explanation of symbols

１０スーツ
１１袖
１２袖山
１３裏地
１４垂れ綿
１５芯材（従来例の）
１６フェルト（従来例の）
１７芯材（本発明の）
１８ローンスレーキ（薄布）
２０上袖
２１下袖
２２バイアステープ
２３袖口
２４芯材（無膜ポリウレタンフォーム）
２５布
２６肩パット 10 Suit 11 Sleeve 12 Sleeve Mountain 13 Lining 14 Drooping Cotton 15 Core Material (conventional example)
16 Felt (conventional example)
17 Core material (of the present invention)
18 Loans rake (thin cloth)
20 Upper sleeve 21 Lower sleeve 22 Bias tape 23 Cuff 24 Core material (non-film polyurethane foam)
25 cloth 26 shoulder pad

Claims

A summer suit that has an unlined summer suit, including the sleeve lining, and a shoulder pad that has the following configuration 1 and that has a sleeve cotton hanging fabric that has the following configuration 2.
1 The core material (24) is a non-membrane polyurethane foam, and the core material (24) is wrapped with a cloth (25) woven by 20-30 mesh.
2 A fabric woven from 20 to 30 mesh of the core material (17) is arranged in a bias shape, and the core material (17) is wrapped with a thin fabric (18) arranged in a bias shape.

The shoulder pad (26) is gradually thinned from the portion on the shoulder toward both sides of the shoulder and the sleeves, and a plurality of sagging cotton cores (17) are overlapped at the central portion and directed toward the periphery. The summer suit according to claim 1, wherein the number is gradually reduced.

The cloth for wrapping the core material (24) of the shoulder pad (26) and the core material (17) of sagging cotton are characterized in that the warp yarn is 100% cotton and the weft yarn is a blended yarn of wool and rayon. Summer suit according to 1 or 2.