JP2006273782A - Hair treatment composition - Google Patents

Hair treatment composition Download PDF

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JP2006273782A
JP2006273782A JP2005097634A JP2005097634A JP2006273782A JP 2006273782 A JP2006273782 A JP 2006273782A JP 2005097634 A JP2005097634 A JP 2005097634A JP 2005097634 A JP2005097634 A JP 2005097634A JP 2006273782 A JP2006273782 A JP 2006273782A
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hair
keratin
agent
dye
treatment composition
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Hiroyuki Tanabe
弘之 田辺
Akio Odera
章夫 大寺
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Croda Japan KK
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Croda Japan KK
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a hair treatment composition, such as an oxidation hair dye or a bleaching agent, which reduces the damages of hair, smells less than general protein hydrolysates, and has excellent characteristics such as excellent dyeability. <P>SOLUTION: This hair treatment composition, such as the oxidation hair dye or the bleaching agent, contains un-hydrolyzed pure keratin and/or hydrolyzed keratin. The hair treatment composition has excellent dyeability, when used to dye hair, and has an effect for reducing the excessive damages of the hair. The keratin or the hydrolyzed keratin of the present invention has S-sulfonated cysteine in the disulfide portion of the cystine, and the S-sulfonated cysteine reacts with S-sulfonated cysteine produced from the cysteine in hair keratin to recover disulfide bonds and inhibit the production of cysteic acid, thereby reducing the damages of the hair. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、毛髪の酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等の毛髪を処理する毛髪処理用組成物に関する。 The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition for treating hair, such as an oxidative hair dye or a decoloring agent for hair.

従来、染毛剤としては酸化染料中間体とアルカリ剤を含有する第一剤と酸化剤を含有する第二剤からなり2剤式の酸化染毛剤が多い。この染毛剤は第一剤中に含まれるアンモニア等のアルカリ剤によって、毛髪を膨潤させて低分子の酸化染料中間体を毛髪中に浸透させて、毛髪の中で第二剤中に含まれる過酸化水素等の酸化剤によって酸化重合を行わせることによって、発色して毛髪を染着する。第一剤に配合しているアルカリ剤によって過酸化水素が分解してラジカルが発生する。このラジカルによって毛髪中のメラニン色素を分解して毛髪を明るくして、毛髪を様々な色調に染毛することが出来る。脱色剤はアルカリ剤を含有する第一剤と酸化剤を含有する第二剤からなる2剤式の脱色剤と第三剤として渦硫酸アンモニウム等の酸化性物質を用いる3剤式の脱色剤がある。第一剤中に含まれるアンモニア等のアルカリ剤によって、毛髪を膨潤させて薬剤を浸透しやすくして、アルカリ剤と酸化剤が反応して分解しラジカルが発生する。このラジカルによって毛髪中のメラニン色素を分解して毛髪を脱色して明るくするものである。こういった染毛剤や脱色剤等の施術過程において、毛髪に過度なダメージをうけるため、毛髪ダメージの低減と更なる染色性向上のためにケラチンやコラーゲン等の蛋白加水分解物を配合することが提案されている。また、酸化染毛剤や脱色剤中に蛋白加水分解物を配合せずに、施術前の毛髪のダメージ度合いに応じて前処理剤として適当な分子量の蛋白加水分解物を組み合わせて塗布する等の様々な施術が提案され、実用化されている。
特開平2000−336020
Conventionally, as a hair dye, there are many two-component oxidative hair dyes comprising a first agent containing an oxidative dye intermediate, an alkali agent, and a second agent containing an oxidant. This hair dye is contained in the second agent in the hair by swelling the hair with an alkaline agent such as ammonia contained in the first agent and allowing the low molecular weight oxidative dye intermediate to penetrate into the hair. By performing oxidative polymerization with an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, the color is developed and the hair is dyed. Hydrogen peroxide is decomposed by the alkaline agent blended in the first agent to generate radicals. By this radical, the melanin pigment in the hair is decomposed to lighten the hair, and the hair can be dyed in various colors. There are two types of decoloring agents, a first agent containing an alkaline agent and a second agent containing a second agent containing an oxidizing agent, and a three agent decolorizing agent using an oxidizing substance such as ammonium vortex sulfate as the third agent. . The alkaline agent such as ammonia contained in the first agent swells the hair and facilitates the penetration of the agent. The alkaline agent and the oxidizing agent react to decompose and generate radicals. By this radical, the melanin pigment in the hair is decomposed to decolorize and brighten the hair. In the treatment process of these hair dyes and depigmenting agents, in order to damage the hair excessively, blend protein hydrolysates such as keratin and collagen in order to reduce hair damage and further improve dyeability. Has been proposed. In addition, without adding protein hydrolyzate in the oxidative hair dye or decoloring agent, a protein hydrolyzate having an appropriate molecular weight is applied in combination as a pretreatment agent according to the degree of hair damage before treatment. Various treatments have been proposed and put into practical use.
JP 2000-336020 A

本発明の目的は酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等の毛髪処理用組成物において、染色性を向上し、毛髪の過度な損傷を防ぐ等の特性を提供することにある。 An object of the present invention is to provide a hair treatment composition such as an oxidative hair dye or a depigmenting agent that provides properties such as improving dyeability and preventing excessive damage to hair.

従来、染毛剤や脱色剤又はパーマ剤において蛋白加水分解物を第一剤に配合して施術することや施術前に毛髪のダメージに応じて適当な分子量の蛋白加水分解物を選択し塗布を行ってから施術することは公知の事実であるが、蛋白質等を種々検討した結果、加水分解していない純粋なケラチン及び加水分解ケラチンにおいて、ケラチン中のシスチンのジスルフィド部分をS−スルフォン化システインにして、脱色剤や酸化染毛剤施術時に0.01から20重量%配合することによって、脱色剤や酸化染毛剤の高アルカリ配合に従来の加水分解ケラチンを配合したときに見られるシスチンのジスルフィド結合のS−S結合が切れて硫黄を含んだ低分子量の化合物が生成し特異臭が発生する事がなくなり、施術時に毛髪が受ける過度なダメージを低減し、均一に染め上がる等の良好な効果を見出し、本発明を開発するに至った。 Conventionally, the protein hydrolyzate is blended with the first agent in hair dyes, depigmenting agents, or permanents, and the protein hydrolyzate of an appropriate molecular weight is selected and applied according to hair damage before the treatment. However, as a result of various studies on proteins and the like, in pure keratin not hydrolyzed and hydrolyzed keratin, the disulfide part of cystine in keratin was converted to S-sulfonated cysteine. In addition, by blending 0.01 to 20% by weight at the time of depigmenting agent and oxidative hair dye treatment, cystine disulfide found when conventional hydrolyzed keratin is blended in a highly alkaline blend of decoloring agent and oxidative hair dye The S—S bond of the bond is broken and a low molecular weight compound containing sulfur is not generated and a specific odor is not generated. Hesi found a good effect, such as Someagaru uniform, leading to the development of the present invention.

請求項1、2、3、4、5記載のケラチンを配合することにより毛髪の損傷を防ぎ、染色性が均一になり向上する。また蛋白加水分解物配合時に感じる特異臭が少ない等の特性を脱色剤又は酸化染毛剤等の毛髪処理用組成物に提供する。 By blending the keratin according to claims 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, hair damage is prevented, and the dyeability becomes uniform and improved. In addition, the present invention provides a hair treatment composition such as a decolorizing agent or an oxidative hair dye having characteristics such as a low specific odor that is felt when a protein hydrolyzate is blended.

以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明に配合するケラチンの製造方法は以下に説明する。
羊毛ケラチンに亜硫酸ナトリウムを反応させてケラチン中のシスチンをS−スルフォン化システインとする。これをホモジナイザーで処理して、可溶化ケラチンが得られる。このケラチン中のシスチンはS−スルフォン化システインとなっている。
本発明に使用されるケラチンとしてはクローダジャパン株式会社が販売しているケラテック IFP-HMWが挙げられる。
本発明の脱色剤又は酸化染毛剤に於ける含有量は総量で0.1〜20.0重量%。好ましくは1.0〜15.0重量%である。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The method for producing keratin blended in the present invention will be described below.
Wool keratin is reacted with sodium sulfite to convert cystine in keratin into S-sulfonated cysteine. This is treated with a homogenizer to obtain solubilized keratin. Cystine in this keratin is S-sulfonated cysteine.
Examples of keratin used in the present invention include Keratech IFP-HMW sold by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.
Content in the decoloring agent or oxidative hair dye of this invention is 0.1 to 20.0 weight% in total. Preferably it is 1.0-15.0 weight%.

本発明に配合する加水分解ケラチンの製造方法は以下に説明する。
羊毛ケラチンに亜硫酸ナトリウムを反応させてケラチン中のシスチンをS−スルフォン化システインとする。これを酵素等で加水分解処理して得られる。
本発明に使用される加水分解ケラチンとしてはクローダジャパン株式会社が販売しているケラテックPepが挙げられる。
本発明の脱色剤又は酸化染毛剤に於ける含有量は総量で0.1〜20.0重量%。好ましくは1.0〜15.0重量%である。
A method for producing hydrolyzed keratin to be blended in the present invention will be described below.
Wool keratin is reacted with sodium sulfite to convert cystine in keratin into S-sulfonated cysteine. This is obtained by hydrolysis with an enzyme or the like.
Examples of the hydrolyzed keratin used in the present invention include Keratech Pep sold by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.
Content in the decoloring agent or oxidative hair dye of this invention is 0.1 to 20.0 weight% in total. Preferably it is 1.0-15.0 weight%.

脱色剤や酸化染毛剤で使用される過酸化水素が施術時にアルカリによって分解し、発生するラジカルによって毛髪を構成しているケラチン中のシスチンと反応してS−スルフォン化システインを経てシステイン酸を生成する。システイン酸を生成することで毛髪が親水性になり、毛髪の櫛通りが悪くなり、またケラチンプロテイン繊維間の架橋(ジスルフィド結合)が切れることによる毛髪強度低下の原因のひとつとなっている。本発明のケラチンまたは加水分解ケラチンはシスチン部分がS−スルフォン化システインとなっており、そのS−スルフォン化システインが毛髪ケラチン中のシスチンから生成するS−スルフォン化システインと反応してジスルフィド結合を回復し、システイン酸の生成を抑制することが出来る。この効果は上記以外にヘアトリートメント及びコンディショナー等のヘアダイやパーマ施術後の毛髪を最終的に処理する組成物にも応用可能である。 Hydrogen peroxide used in depigmenting agents and oxidative hair dyes is decomposed by alkali at the time of treatment, and reacts with cystine in keratin constituting the hair by the generated radicals, so that cysteic acid is converted through S-sulfonated cysteine. Generate. By producing cysteic acid, the hair becomes hydrophilic, the combing of the hair becomes worse, and this is one of the causes of hair strength reduction due to the breakage of the crosslinks (disulfide bonds) between keratin protein fibers. In the keratin or hydrolyzed keratin of the present invention, the cystine moiety is S-sulfonated cysteine, and the S-sulfonated cysteine reacts with S-sulfonated cysteine generated from cystine in hair keratin to restore the disulfide bond. In addition, the production of cysteic acid can be suppressed. In addition to the above, this effect can also be applied to a composition that finally treats hair after hair treatment and conditioner and hair after permanent treatment.

本発明の組成物は、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で、必要に応じて、前記必須成分の他に、界面活性剤、天然油脂、鉱物油、合成エステル、保湿剤、皮膜形成剤、酸化防止剤、防腐剤、香料等を配合することが可能である。 The composition of the present invention is a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, if necessary, in addition to the essential components, surfactants, natural fats and oils, mineral oils, synthetic esters, humectants, film forming agents, oxidation agents It is possible to mix | blend an inhibitor, antiseptic | preservative, a fragrance | flavor, etc.

次に本発明を実施例及び比較例によって更に具体的かつ詳細に説明するが、本発明はこの実施例によって限定されない。なお、以下に記載する数値はいずれも重量%である。 EXAMPLES Next, although an Example and a comparative example demonstrate this invention further more concretely and in detail, this invention is not limited by this Example. In addition, all the numerical values described below are% by weight.

表−1の処方で酸化染毛剤第一剤を調整し、第一剤の臭いの評価や毛髪に施術後の染色性、均染性、毛髪の損傷の試験を行った。10人のパネラーによる臭いの評価、毛髪の引っ張り強度および40日での安定性試験を表−2にまとめた。ケラテック IFP-HMW及び又はケラテックPepを配合した酸化染毛剤は20日後、結晶の析出や分離もなく、市販品の加水分解ケラチンに比べ特異臭も感じることなく安定であった。また、施術後の染色性及び均染性が良好で毛髪の損傷も少ない結果が得られるなど優れた効果がある。 The oxidation hair dye 1st agent was adjusted with the prescription of Table 1, and the odor of the 1st agent was evaluated, and the dyeability after hair treatment, leveling property, and hair damage were tested. The evaluation of odor by 10 panelists, the tensile strength of the hair and the stability test at 40 days are summarized in Table-2. The oxidative hair dye blended with Keratech IFP-HMW and / or Keratech Pep was stable after 20 days without precipitation or separation of crystals and without a specific odor as compared with commercially available hydrolyzed keratin. In addition, there are excellent effects such as good results of dyeing and leveling after treatment, and results of less hair damage.

Figure 2006273782
Figure 2006273782

Figure 2006273782
Figure 2006273782

評価項目
安定性の評価 :
温度40℃の恒温機に第一剤を静置・保存する。保存30日後の外観性状を目視で評価した。
臭いの評価 :
第一剤調整後、得られた第一剤の臭気について以下の基準で評価した。
評価 評価指標
◎ 加水分解ケラチン由来の特異臭をほとんど感じない。
○ 若干加水分解ケラチン由来の特異臭を感じる。
△ 加水分解ケラチンの臭いを感じる。
× 著しく加水分解ケラチンの特異臭を強く感じる。
染色性の評価 :
第一剤及び過酸化水素6%水溶液を重量比で1:1に混合し、得られた混合物10gをビューラックス製人毛白毛束(BM-W)長さ10cm、重さ1gに塗布して温度30℃で20分間放置した後、ぬるま湯で十分すすぎ、シャンプー後ドライヤーで乾燥する。染色性を目視で以下の基準で評価した。
評価 評価基準
◎ オレンジ色に濃く染まっている。
○ オレンジ色に染まっている。
△ あまり染まっていない。
× ほとんど染まっていない。
均染性の評価 :
第一剤及び過酸化水素6%水溶液を重量比で1:1に混合し、得られた混合物10gをビューラックス製人毛白毛束(BM-W)長さ10cm、重さ1gに塗布して温度30℃で20分間放置した後、ぬるま湯で十分すすぎ、シャンプー後ドライヤーで乾燥する。目視で以下の基準で評価した。
評価 評価基準
◎ ムラがなく均一に染まっている。
○ ほぼムラがなく均一に染まっている。
△ ややムラがある。
× ムラがある。
毛髪の損傷評価 :
長さ15cm、5gの人毛毛束を用意して、調整した縮毛矯正剤を20g塗布し、なじませて温度30℃で15分間放置する。15分後、ぬるま湯ですすいだ後タオルドライを行い、ガラス板に毛髪をまっすぐになるように一本ずつ並べてテープ等で張り付けた後、臭素酸ナトリウム6%水溶液に浸積させて温度30℃で15分間静置する。15分後毛髪を取り出してぬるま湯ですすいだ後タオルドライを行い、温度20℃湿度65%の環境に48時間静置・乾燥する。48時間後に引っ張り試験器(INSTRON 5569型)で毛髪が切れる最大瞬間応力を測定して毛髪の損傷評価とした
評価 測定値
◎ 応力1.4N以上
○ 応力1.2〜1.4N
△ 応力1.0〜1.2N
× 応力1.0N以下
Evaluation of stability of evaluation items:
The first agent is left and stored in a thermostat at a temperature of 40 ° C. The appearance properties after 30 days of storage were visually evaluated.
Odor evaluation:
After adjusting the first agent, the odor of the obtained first agent was evaluated according to the following criteria.
Evaluation Evaluation index ◎ Feels no specific odor derived from hydrolyzed keratin.
○ Slightly smells of odor derived from hydrolyzed keratin.
△ I feel the smell of hydrolyzed keratin.
X: The specific odor of hydrolyzed keratin is remarkably strong.
Evaluation of dyeability:
The first agent and a 6% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide were mixed at a weight ratio of 1: 1, and 10 g of the resulting mixture was applied to a white hair bundle (BM-W) made by Beaulux, having a length of 10 cm and a weight of 1 g. After leaving at a temperature of 30 ° C. for 20 minutes, rinse thoroughly with warm water, shampoo and dry with a dryer. The dyeability was visually evaluated according to the following criteria.
Evaluation Evaluation standard ◎ It is dyed deeply in orange.
○ It is dyed orange.
△ Not very dyed.
× Almost not dyed.
Evaluation of leveling:
The first agent and a 6% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide were mixed at a weight ratio of 1: 1, and 10 g of the resulting mixture was applied to a white hair bundle (BM-W) made by Beaulux, having a length of 10 cm and a weight of 1 g. After leaving at a temperature of 30 ° C. for 20 minutes, rinse thoroughly with warm water, shampoo and dry with a dryer. The following criteria were used for visual evaluation.
Evaluation Evaluation standard ◎ There is no unevenness and it is dyed uniformly.
○ There is almost no unevenness and it is dyed uniformly.
△ Somewhat uneven.
× There is unevenness.
Hair damage assessment:
Prepare a human hair bundle having a length of 15 cm and a length of 5 g, apply 20 g of the adjusted hair straightener, let it blend, and let stand at a temperature of 30 ° C. for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, rinse with lukewarm water, dry with towels, place the hair straight on a glass plate and stick them with tape etc., then immerse them in a 6% aqueous solution of sodium bromate at 30 ° C. Let stand for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, the hair is taken out, rinsed with warm water, then towel-dried, and left to dry in an environment of 20 ° C. and 65% humidity for 48 hours. Evaluation of hair damage evaluation by measuring the maximum instantaneous stress at which hair is cut with a tensile tester (INSTRON 5569 type) after 48 hours Measured value ◎ Stress 1.4N or more ○ Stress 1.2-1.4N
△ Stress 1.0 ~ 1.2N
× Stress 1.0N or less

Claims (5)

ケラチン及び/または加水分解ケラチンをそれぞれ0.01〜20.0重量%含有する酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等に適する毛髪処理用組成物。 A hair treatment composition suitable for an oxidative hair dye or a decoloring agent containing 0.01 to 20.0% by weight of keratin and / or hydrolyzed keratin, respectively. 含有するケラチンが加水分解していないケラチンであることを特徴とする請求項1に記載した酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等に適する毛髪処理用組成物。 The composition for hair treatment suitable for an oxidative hair dye or a decoloring agent according to claim 1, wherein the keratin contained is an unhydrolyzed keratin. ケラチンの分子量が30,000〜60,000であることを特徴とする請求項1、2に記載した酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等に適する毛髪処理用組成物。 The molecular weight of keratin is 30,000-60,000, The composition for hair treatment suitable for the oxidative hair dye or the decoloring agent etc. of Claim 1, 2. 含有するケラチン及び加水分解ケラチン中のシスチンの少なくとも一部がS−スルフォン化システインとして存在することを特徴とする請求項1、2、3に記載した酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等に適する毛髪処理用組成物。 The hair treatment suitable for an oxidative hair dye or a decoloring agent according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein at least a part of cystine contained in the keratin and hydrolyzed keratin is present as S-sulfonated cysteine. Composition. 加水分解ケラチンの分子量が3〜4000であることを特徴とする請求項1、2、3、4に記載した酸化染毛剤又は脱色剤等に適する毛髪処理用組成物。 The molecular weight of hydrolyzed keratin is 3-4000, The composition for hair treatment suitable for the oxidative hair dye or the decoloring agent etc. of Claim 1, 2, 3, 4 characterized by the above-mentioned.
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009150775A (en) * 2007-12-20 2009-07-09 Hoyu Co Ltd Evaluation device and evaluation method
JP2015511611A (en) * 2012-03-26 2015-04-20 オーテーツェー・ゲゼルシャフト・ミット・ベシュレンクテル・ハフツングOtc Gmbh Hair conditioning composition for permanent and semi-permanent hair dyeing applications
WO2017029107A1 (en) * 2015-08-14 2017-02-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Bunte salts from amino acids and oligopeptides as protective ingredients in hair treatment means
US20190201307A1 (en) * 2016-09-05 2019-07-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Permanent hairstyling composition with bunte salts from amino acids and oligopeptides

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009150775A (en) * 2007-12-20 2009-07-09 Hoyu Co Ltd Evaluation device and evaluation method
JP2015511611A (en) * 2012-03-26 2015-04-20 オーテーツェー・ゲゼルシャフト・ミット・ベシュレンクテル・ハフツングOtc Gmbh Hair conditioning composition for permanent and semi-permanent hair dyeing applications
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