JP5705417B2 - Second agent for two-component oxidative hair dyes and depigmenting agents - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a second agent for two-component oxidative hair dyes and decolorizers used for hair oxidative dyeing and decolorization, and particularly suppresses the strength reduction of hair with hair color and the like. The present invention relates to a second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent that can impart a “luster” or “smoothness” to the hair after hair removal.

  Various types of oxidative hair dyes have been conventionally used. The oxidative hair dye is composed of a first agent mainly composed of a dye intermediate, a coupler and an alkali agent, and a second agent mainly composed of an oxidant. Pharmaceutical oxidative hair dyes are widely used. Such a two-component oxidative hair dye is used by mixing the first agent and the second agent at the time of use. In addition, in the two-component oxidative hair dye, a decoloring agent (first agent for two-component decoloring agent) constituted without containing the oxidative dye in the first agent is also mixed with the second agent in the same manner as described above. And use.

  In the present invention, both the second agent for oxidative hair dye and the second agent for decoloring agent are included, but these are collectively referred to as the second agent for oxidative hair dye / decoloring agent (hereinafter simply referred to as “second” Sometimes called "agent").

  Examples of the oxidizing agent that is the main component of the second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent include hydrogen peroxide, persulfates (for example, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, etc.), perborates (for example, Sodium perborate, etc.), percarbonates (eg, sodium percarbonate, etc.), bromates (eg, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, etc.) are known. Has been.

  The second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent using hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent is one containing a hydrogen peroxide content of 6.0% by mass or less (excluding 0%) Is normal, and the pH is preferably 2.5 to 3.5.

  Oxidative hair dyes and depigmenting agents tend to cause hair damage, appearing as phenomena such as loss of luster of hair, generation of split ends and cut hair due to reduced hair strength, and softness. In particular, when the dyeing solution is washed off after dyeing, shampooing, drying, etc., the hair is markedly damaged, and the moist feeling after finishing and the combing tend to be poor.

  In order to prevent hair damage, the second agent in the two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent is cationic such as polydimethylmethylenepiperidinium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, and cationized cellulose. A technique using a polymer has been proposed (for example, Patent Document 1). However, the cationic polymer has a problem that it promotes the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, and is not sufficient for suppressing a decrease in hair strength. For this reason, development of the 2nd agent which can suppress the strength reduction of the hair after hair dyeing, without mix | blending cationic polymer is desired.

  On the other hand, lanolin is known as being capable of imparting a moist feeling, an appropriate oily feeling, gloss and the like to hair and skin. Lanolin is widely used in the fields of hair care and skin care as an emulsification aid, stabilizer and softener because it is excellent in emulsion stability and emollient.

  The above lanolin is a two-part oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent second agent, and its formulation is not well known, and there are only a few examples of blending in the second component for permanent wave. There is (for example, Patent Document 2). However, lanolin is known to be easily auto-oxidized by contact with oxygen and to lose its original properties. When it contains an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, its characteristic properties over time It was difficult to hold. Lanolin has an inherent odor and further causes allergies.

  In contrast, adsorbed purified lanolin is a lanolin (nonpolar lanolin) obtained by separating free alcohol (polar substance) in lanolin, which is thought to be a substance causing allergy of lanolin, by column adsorption purification technology. The odor and color are removed, the safety to the skin is high, and the properties such as oxidation stability and hydrolysis stability are excellent (for example, Non-Patent Document 1).

  Adsorption purified lanolin has a high sorption effect on hair and is applied to hair treatment agents such as hair treatment agents (Patent Document 3). However, it is also known that adsorbed and purified lanolin has a low water holding power because its structure has fewer hydroxyl groups than lanolin.

  Regarding such points, it has also been proposed to increase the water holding power by using cholesterol or a derivative thereof, or a hydrocarbon (paraffin), a higher alcohol or the like in combination (Patent Document 3, Non-Patent Document 2). Such a method is insufficient as a means for improving hair damage in hair color.

  By the way, in the two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent as described above, when the first agent and the second agent are applied non-uniformly, it causes color unevenness and hair damage. Moreover, when the operativity at the time of application | coating is bad, it may cause a physical hair damage (fissure). As described above, the mixing property / application property of the first agent and the second agent (sometimes simply referred to as “operability”) is an important factor, and better operability is desired.

JP, 2007-63264, A Claims etc. JP, 2005-145870, A Claims etc. JP, 11-322571, A Claims etc.

"Science of cosmetic fats and oils", pages 49-50, published by Fragrance Journal, 1997 "Science of cosmetic fats and oils", page 137, published by Fragrance Journal, 1997

  The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and the purpose thereof is to suppress a decrease in strength in hair after treatment such as hair coloring, and even in the case where a cationic polymer or the like is not blended, An object of the present invention is to provide a second agent for oxidative hair dyes and decoloring agents that can give a “feel” and “smoothness”.

  The second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention that has achieved the above-mentioned object is a two-component oxidative dye used at the time of oxidative hair dyeing or decoloring at least including an oxidant. The second agent for hair and depigmenting agent has a gist in that it contains (a) adsorption purified lanolin and (b) cholesterol derivative.

  In the second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, the content of (a) adsorption purified lanolin is 0.01 to 10% by mass (two-component oxidative hair dye / decolorant first agent). It is preferable that it is a ratio to the whole two agents). Moreover, it is preferable that the content of (b) cholesterol derivative is 0.01 to 10% by mass (a proportion of the entire second agent for two-part oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent).

  The blending ratio [(a) :( b)] of (a) adsorption purified lanolin and (b) cholesterol derivative is preferably 1: 1 to 10: 1 (mass ratio).

  The cholesterol derivative used in the second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention may be one or more selected from the group consisting of soft lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, isostearate cholesteryl, oleate cholesteryl and hydroxystearate cholesteryl. Can be mentioned. In addition, the two agents for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention may contain an anionic surfactant as required.

  According to the present invention, in the second agent for oxidative hair coloring / decoloring agent, which contains at least an oxidant and is used for oxidative hair coloring or decoloring hair, (a) adsorbed purified lanolin, (b) cholesterol derivative By containing the hair, it is possible to suppress the decrease in strength of hair after oxidative hair coloring and decoloring, and to impart “feel” and “smoothness” to hair after oxidative hair coloring and decoloring 2 The second agent for oxidative hair dye and decoloring agent could be realized.

  The inventors of the present invention have a two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent that exhibits an effect of suppressing reduction in hair strength after oxidative hair dyeing and decolorization, and that can impart “luster” and “smoothness”. In order to realize two agents, it examined from various angles. As a result, by containing (a) adsorbed purified lanolin and (b) cholesterol derivative, reduction in the strength of hair after oxidative hair dyeing or decolorization is suppressed, and “luster” and “smoothness” are imparted to the hair. The present invention has been completed by finding out what can be done.

  Various oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, bromates, etc., are contained in the second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention. As a typical example, hydrogen peroxide can be given. When hydrogen peroxide is used, the concentration is usually 6.0% by mass or less (excluding 0%), but 6.0% by mass or less of hydrogen peroxide has a limit in the ability to decompose melanin and is as high as possible. A second agent containing hydrogen peroxide in a content is also desired. In this regard, in the United States and the like, a second agent in which hydrogen peroxide is mixed up to about 12% by mass is used, and is utilized for lightening hair. By increasing the content of hydrogen peroxide in this way, it is expected that a melanin decomposing effect will be achieved in a short time treatment, and a bright hair color treatment will be possible in a short time by increasing the bleaching power. . However, as the content of hydrogen peroxide is increased, the condition of the hair is lowered and the above disadvantages tend to occur.

  The second agent for the two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention contains (a) adsorbed purified lanolin and (b) a cholesterol derivative, whereby hydrogen peroxide is used as the oxidizing agent. Even so, the condition of the hair can be improved, but the action of each component will be described.

  Adsorption refined lanolin [the said component (a)] is a component required in order to provide "smoothness" to the hair after hair dyeing, or to reduce a feeling of friction. In order to exert such effects, it is preferable to contain 0.01% by mass or more (ratio to the entire second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent), but 10% by mass (two-component oxidative dyeing) If it exceeds the ratio of the second agent for hair and depigmenting agent), a sticky feeling will occur. In particular, it is preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass (a proportion of the entire second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent).

  On the other hand, since the cholesterol derivative [the component (b)] is an intercellular lipid having a water-holding property, it has been used so far in the field of skin care to impart a function of moisturizing feeling and cell membrane repair. In the present invention, by including such a cholesterol derivative, an effect of imparting a “luster” feeling after hair dyeing is exhibited. In order to exert such an effect, the content of the cholesterol derivative is preferably 0.01% by mass or more (ratio to the entire second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent). If the amount exceeds 10% by mass (ratio of the total amount of the second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent), a sticky feeling is generated. In particular, it is preferably 0.1 to 1% by mass (a proportion of the entire second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent).

  Examples of the cholesterol derivative include soft lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, and cholesteryl hydroxystearate. Particularly preferred is cholesteryl hydroxystearate.

  By containing the adsorbed and purified lanolin and cholesterol derivative as described above, the effect of suppressing oxidative hair dyeing and hair strength reduction after decolorization can be exhibited, and “glossy” and “smoothness” can be imparted 2 The second chemical agent for oxidative hair dye and depigmenting agent has been realized, but the reasons for these effects are not fully clarified, but can probably be considered as follows. It was. In other words, the adsorbed purified lanolin contains a large amount of intercellular lipids such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18MEA), so that the hair cuticle is prevented from floating and the hair surface is smoothed to achieve “smoothness”. It is thought that it can be granted. In addition, it is considered that by combining the adsorbed purified lanolin and the cholesterol derivative, the water holding property is improved, and a “shiny” feeling can be imparted to the hair after dyeing. Furthermore, since the cholesterol derivative and the adsorbed purified lanolin are binding lipids in the hair, it is considered that the hair strength reduction can effectively act on the hair by the hair dyeing treatment and suppress the reduction in the strength of the hair.

  In addition to the above components, the second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention can also contain an anionic surfactant. By blending this anionic surfactant, the operability at the time of mixing the second agent and the first agent can be improved. Examples of the anionic surfactant that can be used in the second agent of the present invention include sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium myristyl sulfate, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, and sodium behenyl sulfate. It is preferable to make it contain so that it may become% (ratio to the whole 2nd agent for 2 agent type oxidation hair dye and a decoloring agent). In addition, fatty acids (lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, etc.) are mixed with suitable alkaline agents (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2- It is also possible to use it after neutralizing with amino-2-methyl-1-propanol or the like.

  The second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention may contain additives that are usually included. Examples of such additives include oils such as fats and oils, petrolatum, waxes, moisturizers, surfactants (cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants), silicones, and the like. In addition, a cationic polymer, a thickening / gelling agent, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a stabilizer, a pH adjuster, a solvent, an anti-inflammatory agent, a fragrance, a pigment, and the like can be blended to a normal degree.

  As the dosage form of the second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent in the present invention, a cream type or a gel type is useful, but a liquid type can also be used.

  Next, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples. However, the following examples are not intended to limit the present invention, and all modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the above and following descriptions. To be included in the scope. The test methods used in each example are described below. Moreover, all the compounding quantities of the following Example are the mass% (ratio to the 2nd agent hair dyeing / decoloring agent whole 2nd agent).

(Example 1)
(Evaluation method of “Glossy” and “Smoothness” after hair dyeing)
Evaluation of the gloss and smoothness of the hair after hair dyeing is as follows. First agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent (hereinafter simply referred to as “first agent”) whose component composition is shown in Table 1 below. The second agent shown in the following Table 2 to Table 6 is mixed so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio), and a hair bundle of human hair that has not been subjected to chemical treatment (oxidative hair dyeing, decoloring treatment, etc.) 30 cm, 10 g) and left at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes. The dye used in the first agent in Table 1 is a known oxidation dye (paraphenylenediamine, paraaminophenol, resorcin, etc.).

  Next, it was treated with water, normal shampoo and treatment (Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. Caradeco Rico shampoo, treatment used) and then air-dried. Then, the glossiness and smoothness of the hair were evaluated according to the following criteria by professional panelists (10 persons). The results are also shown in Tables 2-6 below.

(Evaluation criteria for “Glossy”)
3 points: Very “shiny” 2 points: “Glossy” 1 point: No “Glossy” feeling 0 points: “Glossy” not felt at all (Evaluation criteria for total value)
◎: 26 to 30 points ○: 21 to 25 points △: 16 to 20 points ×: 10 to 15 points

(Evaluation criteria for “smoothness”)
3 points: very smooth 2 points: smooth 1 point: slightly rough 0 point: rough (total value evaluation criteria)
◎: 26 to 30 points ○: 21 to 25 points △: 16 to 20 points ×: 10 to 15 points

  Evaluation of the “smoothness” of the hair after dyeing was also performed by measuring the friction coefficient (μ) of the hair before and after dyeing. The results are also shown in Tables 2-6 below.

(Friction coefficient measurement method)
(A) Target hair The friction coefficient is measured by treating the hair (10 cm, 1 g) not subjected to chemical treatment with the above-mentioned hair dyeing treatment twice, and using a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate in the process. Then, the coefficient of friction in the wet state after washing was measured.

(B) Initial value setting (The initial value was measured to select a hair bundle having the same characteristics)
(I) Hair conditioning: The hair bundle for measurement was conditioned at 20 ° C. and 60% humidity for 24 hours or more.
(Ii) Measuring instrument: For the measurement, a friction tester “KES-SE” (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) was used.
(Iii) Measurement was carried out under the conditions of measurement sensitivity: H, frictional static load: 50 gf, sensor: silicon type. Scanning was performed in the forward direction (hair bundle from the root). The coefficient of friction (μ) was measured by multiplying the MIU value by a coefficient of 0.1.

(Evaluation criteria for “smoothness”)
A: Friction coefficient μ is less than 0.50 B: Friction coefficient μ is 0.50 or more and less than 0.60 Δ: Friction coefficient μ is 0.60 or more and less than 0.70 ×: Friction coefficient μ is 0.70 or more

  The results in Table 2 are obtained by preparing a second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent containing lanolin, adsorbed purified lanolin and cholesterol derivative alone, and evaluating the condition after dyeing. As is clear from this result, the compound containing the usual lanolin (Formulation Example 2) was worse than the other ones in “Glossy feeling”, “Smoothness”, and friction coefficient. Moreover, it turned out that adsorption refined lanolin (formulation example 1) is concerned with the "smoothness" and friction of hair, and a cholesterol derivative (formulation example 3) influences "a feeling of gloss" from this result.

  The results in Table 3 show the sensory test and friction coefficient measurement when adsorbed purified lanolin and various cholesterol derivatives (cholesteryl hydroxystearate, soft lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate) (formulation examples 4-7) were blended. It is what went. As is apparent from the results, the glossiness is most excellent when cholesteryl hydroxystearate is blended (formulation example 4). This is probably because cholesteryl hydroxystearate has a hydroxyl group in the molecule as compared with other cholesterol derivatives, and thus has a high water holding property.

  The results in Table 4 show the condition when the blending amount is changed with the blending ratio of (a) adsorbed purified lanolin and (b) cholesteryl hydroxystearate being (a) :( b) = 1: 1 (mass ratio). Is a comparison. Thereby, each compounding quantity is 0.01% -10% (ratio to the whole 2nd agent for 2 agent type oxidation hair dye and a decoloring agent) (prescription examples 9-11), and the favorable condition is obtained. I understand that. Moreover, about the prescription example 12, although "glossiness" was a good result, the stickiness was recognized by the condition after hair dyeing.

  The results in Table 5 were examined when the mixing ratio [(a) :( b)] of (a) adsorbed purified lanolin and (b) cholesteryl hydroxystearate was changed. Thereby, it turns out that the thing of the prescription examples 14-16 whose mixing | blending ratio is an appropriate range has shown the favorable result. In addition, in Prescription Example 17, as in Prescription Example 12, stickiness was recognized on the hair after dyeing.

  The results in Table 6 were examined for the condition in the change in hydrogen peroxide concentration. Thereby, it turns out that a good condition can be imparted without being affected by the hydrogen peroxide concentration in the case of using the second agent for oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent containing adsorbed purified lanolin and cholesteryl hydroxystearate.

(Example 2)
(Evaluation of operability (mixability and coatability) when an anionic surfactant is added)
As for operability, the first agent in Table 1 above and the second agent whose component composition is shown in Table 7 below are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1 (mass ratio). The applicability of the film was evaluated according to the following criteria by professional panelists (10 persons). In addition, the gloss, smoothness, and friction coefficient were also evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are also shown in Table 7 below.

(Evaluation criteria for mixing during mixing)
3 points: very good mixability 2 points: excellent mixability 1 point: slightly poor mixability 0 points: poor mixability (evaluation criteria for total value)
◎: 26 to 30 points ○: 21 to 25 points △: 16 to 20 points ×: 10 to 15 points

(Evaluation criteria for applicability)
3 points: Excellent applicability 2 points: Excellent applicability 1 point: Slightly poor applicability 0 points: Poor applicability (Evaluation criteria for total value)
◎: 26 to 30 points ○: 21 to 25 points △: 16 to 20 points ×: 10 to 15 points

  As is apparent from the results in Table 7, when an anionic surfactant was added to the second agent, operability was improved. The condition was also good. Among the anionic surfactants examined here, sodium cetyl sulfate (Formulation Example 24) had the best operability.

(Example 3)
(Hair damage test)
The degree of damage to the hair after dyeing was evaluated from the measurement of the breaking strength of the hair after dyeing.

(Break strength measurement method)
The first agent in Table 1 above and the second agent whose component composition is shown in Table 8 below are mixed at a mass ratio of 1: 1 and derived from a human who has not undergone chemical treatment (oxidative hair dyeing, decolorization treatment, etc.) 0.2 g was applied to a hair bundle (15 cm, 0.2 g). Thereafter, the mixture was allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes and washed with a lauryl sulfate triethanolamine: 10% aqueous solution. This series of operations is performed five times, and each sample hair is arbitrarily selected from the obtained treated hairs, and the hair diameter [diameter (mm) and minor diameter (mm )] Was measured, and the cross section (mm ² ) of the hair was determined from the following formula (1). Next, the tensile break value (cN) of the sample hair in water was measured using a tabletop material testing machine [Tensilon STA-1150] (manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.). Thereafter, the tensile strength at break (cN / mm ² ) per cross section (mm ² ) was calculated to obtain the breaking strength (cN / mm ² ) (n = 10). The evaluation criteria at this time are as follows. The results are also shown in Table 8 below.
Cross section (mm ² ) = (π / 4) × diameter (mm) × short diameter (mm) (1)

(Evaluation criteria for hair damage)
A: Hair breaking strength is 1.70 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ² or more ○: Hair breaking strength is 1.65 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ² or more, less than 1.70 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ² Δ: Hair breaking Strength: 1.60 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ² or more, less than 1.65 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ² ×: Hair breaking strength is less than 1.60 × 10 ⁴ cN / mm ²

  As is apparent from the results in Table 8, it can be seen that the decrease in strength can be suppressed as compared with the case of no blending by blending adsorbed purified lanolin and cholesteryl hydroxystearate. Moreover, it was a result better than the cationic polymer (Prescription Examples 28 and 29) generally used as a conditioning component.

Claims (2)

In the second agent for two-component oxidative hair coloring / decoloring agent, which contains at least an oxidant and is used for oxidative hair coloring or decolorizing hair, (a) adsorbed purified lanolin, (b) cholesterol derivative, a) The content of the adsorbed purified lanolin is 0.01 to 10% by mass (the proportion of the second agent for the two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent, the same applies to the content hereinafter), and (b) The cholesterol derivative is one or more selected from the group consisting of soft lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, and the content thereof is 0.01 to 10% by mass, And the blending ratio [(a) :( b)] of (a) adsorption purified lanolin and (b) cholesterol derivative is 1: 1 to 10: 1 (mass ratio). The second agent for two-agent oxidation hair dyeing, bleaching agent, characterized in that. The second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent according to claim 1, further comprising an anionic surfactant.