JP2006219423A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a skin cosmetic good in feeling in use through sustainedly suppressing sebum-related stickiness while having refreshing cool feeling, and excellent in skin-brightening effect. <P>SOLUTION: The skin cosmetic comprises water-absorbed porous powder and also contains a skin-brightening agent, wherein the surface of the porous powder is coated with a caking agent. Particularly, the porous powder consists of e.g. flaky porous silica, spherical porous silica, silicone-treated particulate zinc oxide, methyl methacrylate cross polymer, amorphous particulate silicic anhydride, and the caking agent comprises an oil component which contains a crosslinked organopolysiloxane. In this skin cosmetic, the water-absorbing ability of the whole powder is 50-150 mL/100g. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that continuously suppresses stickiness due to sebum while having a refreshing feeling, has a good feeling in use, and has an excellent whitening effect.

  Various whitening agents have been developed to realize white and beautiful skin. Conventionally, as such a whitening agent, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid phosphate ester, ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbic acid glucoside, glycosides of hydroquinones such as hydroquinone glucoside, tranexamic acid such as tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid ester, Known are phenolic compounds such as ferulic acid, isoferulic acid, and kojic acid (for example, Patent Document 1).

However, even if these whitening agents are blended in cosmetics such as milky lotion, cream, lotion, etc., the effect is not sufficiently obtained.
JP 2004-115381 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic that has a refreshing feeling and continuously suppresses stickiness due to sebum, has a good feeling in use, and has an excellent whitening effect.

  The present inventor has found that the above-mentioned problem can be solved by incorporating a whitening agent into a skin cosmetic that is made to absorb water in a porous powder and whose surface is coated with a binder.

  The present invention provides a skin cosmetic containing a water-absorbing porous powder, the surface of the porous powder being coated with a binder, and a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent. is there.

  The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention has a refreshing feeling and continuously suppresses stickiness due to sebum, can relieve discomfort of oily skin, has a good feeling of use, and has an excellent whitening effect It is. Suitable as a whitening cosmetic.

Specific examples of the porous powder used in the present invention include organic porous powders such as polyamide, polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, styrene-divinylbenzene copolymer and cellulose; calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, etc. Metal salts of silicates; metal carbonates such as calcium carbonate and cobalt carbonate; metal tungstates such as calcium tungstate; metal oxides such as cobalt oxide and α-iron oxide; metal oxides such as hydrated iron oxide In addition, silica (including silica gel), hydroxyapatite, lanolin powder and the like can be mentioned.
These porous powders preferably have an average particle diameter of 3 to 20 μm, more preferably 5 to 15 μm, and particularly preferably 10 to 15 μm. If the porous powder is too small, the spread of the skin cosmetics will be poor, and if it is too large, it will feel a stain. The porous powder preferably has an average pore diameter of 50 mm or more in one powder particle.

Of these, porous silica having a water absorption capacity of 50 to 200 mL / 100 g is preferred. The porous silica may be spherical or plate-shaped. In particular, it is preferable to use both in combination.
Here, the water absorption capacity is a value measured according to the two-blade mixing method of the mechanical method (JIS K6221-1982), and is measured using an oil absorption measuring device S-410 (manufactured by Frontex Corporation). In the measurement method, the torque is calculated from the torsion angle of the torsion bar according to the mixing torque when water is dropped onto the powder at 4 mL / min, and the dripping amount of 70% of the maximum torque is defined as the water absorption capacity.

  It is preferable that the porous powder (powder is before water absorption) is contained in the total composition of the skin cosmetic in an amount of 5 to 40% by mass, particularly 10 to 30% by mass, because it has no roughness and a good feeling in use.

  In this invention, powder other than porous powder can be contained. The powder other than the porous powder may be spherical, plate-shaped, or amorphous. These preferably have an average particle size of 0.001 to 30 μm.

  The spherical powder has a spherical shape and a shape similar to a sphere. Spherical powder includes inorganic powders such as calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, and anhydrous silicic acid; organic powders such as crystalline cellulose, poly (meth) acrylic acid ester (methyl, ethyl ester), nylon powder, and polyvinylpyrrolidone; siloxane bond And polymethylsilsesquioxane powder having an intermediate structure between inorganic and organic in which a three-dimensional network structure is formed and a methyl group is bonded to one silicon atom. The spherical powder preferably has an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm, particularly 1 to 20 μm. One or more spherical powders can be used, and a smooth feel can be obtained.

  Examples of the plate powder include talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, and pearl pigment. The plate-like powder preferably has an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm, particularly 1 to 20 μm. One or more types of plate-like powders can be used, which are preferable from the viewpoint of ease of taking a cosmetic and easiness of stretching.

Further, as the amorphous fine particles, amorphous fine particles of silicic acid anhydride are preferable, and those having an average particle diameter of 0.001 to 0.01 μm, particularly 0.001 to 0.02 μm, have a good feeling of use without causing squeaking. Good stability without oil separation is obtained, which is preferable. The particle diameter of the amorphous fine particle silicic acid is measured by a transmission electron microscope.
Examples of the amorphous fine particle anhydrous silicic acid include hydrophilic amorphous fine particle anhydrous silicic acid having a particle diameter in the above range, obtained by hydrolyzing ordinary silicon tetrachloride in a hydrogen / oxygen flame, Examples thereof include amorphous fine particles of silicic acid obtained by hydrophobizing the surface of amorphous fine particles of silicic acid. The amorphous fine particle silicic acid anhydride may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic, but is preferably hydrophilic.

As the amorphous fine particle silicic acid anhydride, for example, commercially available products such as Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300, Aerosil R972, Aerosil R974, Aerosil R202, Aerosil RY200 (above, manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.), Talanox 500 (manufactured by Tarco), etc. Can do.
The amorphous fine particle silicic acid is contained in the total composition of the skin cosmetic in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by mass, particularly 0.1 to 1% by mass. It is preferable because good stability without separation is obtained and a good cosmetic lasting effect is obtained.

In the present invention, these powder surfaces may be either hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Hydrophobic treatment includes trimethylsiloxylation treatment with trimethylsilyl chloride, hexamethyldisilazane, etc .; methylation treatment with dimethyldichlorosilane; coating baking treatment with methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; dimethylpolysiloxane, metal soap, etc. A coating etc. are mentioned.
In addition, the average particle diameter of the powder used for this invention shows volume average particle diameter (D4) (average particle diameter calculated by the volume fraction). The measurement can be easily performed with a laser diffraction particle size distribution meter with good reproducibility.

One or more kinds of powders other than the porous powder can be used, and 1 to 30% by mass, especially 4 to 20% by mass in the total composition of the skin cosmetic is used in terms of feeling of use and uneven blurring effect. To preferred.
In addition, the content ratio of the powder other than the porous powder and the porous powder (mass ratio, the mass of both powders is the mass before water absorption) is from the viewpoint of both sebum removability and usability. It is preferably 2: 5 to 3: 4.

  In the present invention, the porous powder absorbs water. The water absorption method is not particularly limited, and the porous powder and water containing water or other components can be mixed and absorbed. Alternatively, after mixing the porous powder and the binder, water or water containing other components can be mixed and absorbed.

  In the present invention, the water absorption capacity of the whole powder including the porous powder (the whole powder is before water absorption) is 50 to 150 mL / 100 g, particularly 70 to 130 mL / 100 g. Since it can manufacture stably, it is preferable. The water absorption capacity is measured in the same manner as described above.

  In the present invention, the binder for covering the surface of the porous powder may be any one as long as the powder surface is caulked when the powder surface is coated. It is preferable to include an oil component that is liquid at ° C.

  Examples of the oil component contained in the binder include silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, ether oil, and fluorine oil.

  Examples of the silicone oil include a low molecular weight linear polyorganosiloxane represented by the general formula (1) and a low molecular weight cyclic polysiloxane represented by the general formula (2).

(In the formula, R ¹ represents an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or an aryl group having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and all R ¹ may be the same or different. M is 0 to 100,000. Number)

(In the formula, R ¹ represents the same meaning as described above, and n represents a number of 4 to 6)

As the linear organopolysiloxane, a linear alkylpolysiloxane having an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a linear chain having an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and an aryl group having 6 to 10 carbon atoms Linear alkylaryl polysiloxane and the like, and specifically, linear dimethylpolysiloxane, linear methylphenyl polysiloxane and the like. Among these linear organopolysiloxanes, those having m of 0 to 100 (viscosity 100 mm ² / s or less), particularly those having m of 2 to 50 are preferred from the viewpoint of touch.
Examples of the cyclic polysiloxane include 4- to 6-membered cyclic siloxane having an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms as a substituent, and specific examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Can be mentioned.

  Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, squalane, light liquid isoparaffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, and the like.

  Examples of ester oils include vegetable oils such as safflower oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, macadamia nut oil, and Medfoam oil; mink oil, Animal oils such as turtle oil and liquid lanolin; fatty acid esters of lower alcohols such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate and lanolin fatty acid isopropyl; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl oleate, Fatty acid esters of higher alcohols such as cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isocetyl 2-ethylhexanoate and isostearyl isostearate; oxyacid esters of higher alcohols such as diisostearyl malate and cetyl lactate; tricaprylic acid Glyceryl, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, tri (capryl / capric acid) glycerin, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol di (capryl / capric acid), propylene glycol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate And fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols such as neopentyl glycol 2-ethylhexanoate.

  Examples of the ether oil include dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether and cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, and examples of the fluorine oil include perfluoropolyether and perfluorocarbon.

  These oil agent components can use 1 or more types, It is preferable to contain 35-60 mass% in the whole composition, especially 40-55 mass%.

  Further, the binder preferably contains a crosslinked organopolysiloxane. Examples of the crosslinked organopolysiloxane include a crosslinked alkylaryl polysiloxane and a crosslinked alkylpolysiloxane. Examples of the crosslinkable alkylaryl polysiloxane include a crosslinkable organopolysiloxane having an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and an aryl group having 6 to 10 carbon atoms. Specifically, for example, a crosslinkable methylphenylpolysiloxane is used. Etc. Examples of the crosslinkable alkylpolysiloxane include a crosslinkable dialkylpolysiloxane having an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Specific examples include a crosslinkable dimethylpolysiloxane and a crosslinkable methylphenylpolysiloxane. .

  Further, as the cross-linked organopolysiloxane, for example, a paste-like KSG15 that is a mixture of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and a cross-linkable organopolysiloxane, or a paste that is a mixture of a low-viscosity dimethylpolysiloxane and a cross-linkable organopolysiloxane Commercially available products such as KSG16, paste-like KSG18 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), which is a mixture of methylphenylpolysiloxane and cross-linked organopolysiloxane, can also be used.

  The cross-linked organopolysiloxane is excellent in the ability to gel oil, and can impart favorable cosmetic properties without drying the skin. The composition obtained with this cross-linked organopolysiloxane is comfortable to use, soft and non-sticky to the touch. One is soft due to the structure of the cross-linked organopolysiloxane, and the other is due to properties comparable to microsponges that contain oil.

  The cross-linked organopolysiloxane is preferably contained in an amount of 0.6 to 9% by mass, particularly 0.9 to 6.3% by mass in the entire skin cosmetic composition from the viewpoint of non-stickiness.

In the present invention, a more excellent effect can be obtained by using a crosslinked organopolysiloxane and an oil agent, particularly volatile silicone and / or nonvolatile liquid oil, as a binder.

  In addition, the total powder containing the porous powder (the total powder is the mass before water absorption) and the content ratio (mass ratio) of the total binder are 1: 1 to 3: 5 is preferred.

The whitening agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is known in the normal cosmetics field, and can be used.
For example, an oil-soluble chamomile extract described in JP-A-2004-51610 can be mentioned. Such oil-soluble chamomile extract is a chamomile [Matricaria chamomill L. (Compositae)] flowers are extracted with a lipophilic organic solvent. The solvent used is preferably an oil having a solubility parameter (SP value) in the range of 15 to 21, for example, isopropyl myristate (SP value 17.0), dipentaglycol neopentyl glycol (SP value 17.7), flow Paraffin (SP value 16.4), squalane (SP value 16.2), etc. are mentioned, and these mixed solvents may be used. Also, castor oil, persic oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and the like can be used. Here, the SP value is a measure of compatibility between substances, and is obtained by calculating Hansen's three-dimensional solubility parameter by the method described in Japanese Patent No. 3113844.

  The extraction method involves adding 1 to 100 times mass solvent to chamomile flowers to pulverized dried chamomile flowers and performing stirring and extraction at 10 to 90 ° C. for 1 to 96 hours. The temperature is appropriately set depending on the type of oil.

Generally, the type and amount of components contained in the resulting extract vary depending on the solvent used for extraction. In the present invention, an extract using squalane is preferable because it provides a particularly excellent whitening effect.
Such oil-soluble chamomile extract contains camazulene, umbelliferone, 7-methoxycoumarin, matricin, matricalin, taraxasterol, upole, apine, a spiro ether compound represented by the following formula (3), and the like. .

  Of these various components, it is considered that the content of the spiro ether compound in particular affects the whitening effect. In the present invention, the amount of the spiro ether compound in the oil-soluble chamomile extract is preferably 10 to 500 ppm. Moreover, although 1 or more types can be used for an oil-soluble chamomile extract, it is preferable that the total amount of the spiro ether compound in the whole extract is 10-500 ppm in that case.

  It is sufficient that the oil-soluble chamomile extract is 0.0001 to 50% by mass, particularly 0.001 to 30% by mass, and more preferably 0.005 to 20% by mass as the extract in the entire skin cosmetic composition. A beautiful whitening effect is obtained, which is preferable. This content corresponds to about 0.00001 to 5% by mass as the dry solid content of the extract. Moreover, it is preferable that content of the spiro ether compound in cosmetics is 0.1-50 ppm.

Other whitening agents include arbutin; ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid phosphate, ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbic acid glucoside; glycosides of hydroquinones such as hydroquinone glucoside; tranexam such as tranexamic acid and tranexamic acid ester Acids: phenolic compounds such as ferulic acid, isoferulic acid and kojic acid, and physiologically acceptable salts thereof. Examples of physiologically acceptable salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts; ammonium salts; triethylamine salts and triethanolamine salts. Organic amine salts of the following: basic amino acid salts such as lysine salts and arginine salts.
In addition, examples of herbal medicines or extracts thereof include royal jelly, white mulberry skin, kujin, white birch, yukinoshita, Ibukisakuso, Ibukitorano.

  Among these, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid phosphate ester, ascorbic acid glucoside, hydroquinone glucoside, tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid ester, ferulic acid, isoferulic acid, kojic acid and physiologically acceptable salts thereof are excellent. It is preferable in terms of whitening action and high safety.

  One or more kinds of these whitening agents can be used, and it is preferable to contain 0.01 to 10% by mass, particularly 0.1 to 7% by mass, in the entire skin cosmetic composition.

In the present invention, as described above, any of the water-soluble and oil-soluble whitening agents can be used. However, when the whitening agent is water-soluble, it is dissolved in water and becomes a porous powder. When the whitening agent is oil-soluble, it tends to be contained in the binder.
The skin cosmetic of the present invention is composed of powder and a binder, and has an appropriate viscosity, so that the whitening agent is fixed on the skin without unnecessarily spreading. It can be efficiently penetrated into the skin and a high whitening effect can be obtained. Furthermore, the effect can be heightened by including cross-linked organopolysiloxane. In particular, when the whitening agent is contained in the porous powder, the whitening effect can be exerted intensively.

  The skin cosmetics of the present invention are semi-solid hydrocarbons, esters, animal and vegetable oils and fats, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, various polymer resins, polyhydric alcohols, depending on the purpose of use in addition to the above components. Contains moisturizers, UV absorbers, dyes, pearls, extenders, thickeners, surfactants, antioxidants, antiseptics, intercellular lipids, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances, other drugs, etc. be able to.

  The skin cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains 10 to 20% by mass, particularly 12 to 18% by mass of water in the total composition from the viewpoint of the touch when applied to the skin and the water absorption ability of the porous powder. . A refreshing feeling and a refreshing feeling can be obtained by adding water.

  The skin cosmetic of the present invention is, for example, mixed with all powders including porous powder, impregnated with a certain amount or all of water, then added with a binder, kneaded, and further if necessary It can be manufactured by adding water and kneading. In addition, it is preferable that a binder does not contain water.

  The skin cosmetic of the present invention is one in which powder particles are caulked with a caking agent, have an appropriate viscosity, and can maintain a certain shape.

  The skin cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 100 to 4000 Pa · s, particularly 300 to 3000 Pa · s, and more preferably 500 to 2000 Pa · s when measured at 5 rpm with a B8R viscometer at 25 ° C. .

Example 1
Skin cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 2 were produced by the following methods, and the spread, stickiness, non-stickiness, squeaking and whitening effects when each cosmetic was used were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 2.

(Cosmetics production method)
While stirring the powder, the aqueous phase component is added. After confirming that the powder absorbed all the water phase components and did not energize with a tester, a binder was added to the mixed powder and kneaded to obtain a skin cosmetic. In addition, it confirmed that the obtained skin cosmetics also did not energize with a tester.

(Evaluation methods)
(1) Nobite, stickiness, non-stickiness and creaking:
Ten expert panelists performed a sensory evaluation of 1 to 5 points on the spread, stickiness (evenly stretched and non-uniformity), stickiness and squeak when using each cosmetic. The average score was determined and judged according to the following criteria.
A: Average score is 4.5 to 5.0.
A: The average score is 3.5 to 4.4.
(Triangle | delta): An average score is 2.5-3.4.
X: Average point is 1.5 to 2.4.
XX: Average point is 1.0 to 1.4.

(2) Whitening effect:
Twenty healthy male subjects were irradiated with UV rays in the UV-B region twice a minimum amount of erythema (2MED) once a day for 2 days using the Toshiba FS-20SE lamp. Thereafter, cosmetics were continuously applied to the test site twice a day for one month. Was measured by a color difference meter to calculate the obtained L ^* values from the Munsell value, the DerutaderutaL ^* value obtained by subtracting the change amount of the cosmetic non coating part from the variation of L ^* value of cosmetic application unit according to the following equation It was obtained and used as an index of the whitening effect. The results are the evaluation points shown in Table 1, and are shown as an average value of 20 subjects.

(Equation 1)
_{^{ΔΔL * = (L * 1 -L}} * 0) - (L * 1 '-L * 0')
L ^* ₀ : Initial value of the cosmetic application site.
L ^* ₀ ': Initial value of the site where cosmetics are not applied.
L ^* ₁ : Measured value one month after the cosmetic application site.
L ^* ₁ ': Measured value one month after the site without cosmetic application.

Claims (6)

  A skin cosmetic containing a water-absorbing porous powder, the surface of the porous powder being coated with a binder, and a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent.   The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the binder contains an oil component.   The skin cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the binder contains an oil component containing a cross-linked organopolysiloxane.   The mass ratio of the total powder containing the porous powder (the total powder is the mass before water absorption) and the total binder is 1: 1 to 3: 5. The skin cosmetic according to Item.   The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the water absorption capacity of the whole powder including the porous powder (the whole powder is before water absorption) is 50 to 150 mL / 100 g.   The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a whitening cosmetic.