JP2005255639A - Water-containing oily cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a water-containing oily cosmetic which has high transparency, exhibits good slipperiness, when coated, forms cosmetic films having an excellent coated site-closing property and an excellent water-holding property, thereby has an excellent moist touch-retaining property, ands is not changed at high temperature with the passage of time. <P>SOLUTION: This water-containing oily cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following ingredients (a) to (c). (a) 40 to 90 mass % of a pasty oil. (b) 0.1 to 50 mass % of water. (c) 0.01 to 2 mass % of a water-soluble polymer. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

The present invention relates to a non-emulsifying type water-containing oily cosmetic in which water is dispersed in oil. Further, it relates to a water-containing oily cosmetic in which a water-soluble polymer and water are dispersed in an oil containing a paste-like oil, and more specifically, it has high transparency and good smoothness during application. The present invention relates to a water-containing oily cosmetic that has excellent moisturizing susceptibility by forming a cosmetic film excellent in occlusion and water repellency at an application site and that does not change with time at high temperatures.

  Oily cosmetics are cosmetic dosage forms that are widely used in lipsticks and lip balms and the like that contain paste oils such as petrolatum and polybutene as dosage forms that are excellent in occlusion at the application site such as the skin and lips. However, since it is necessary to supply moisture to the skin and lips of dry and rough people, various techniques for blending water into oily cosmetics have been proposed. For example, a technique for dispersing water in a non-emulsified state in a pasty oil and a liquid oil (see, for example, Patent Document 1), water in an oil containing a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane having a polyoxyalkylene group introduced therein. A technique for dispersing (see, for example, Patent Document 2) A technique for emulsifying water in oil using polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane or clay mineral (for example, see Patent Document 3).

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 4-40324 (pages 1 to 5) Japanese Patent No. 3308164 (page 1 to page 10) JP 2003-137734 A (page 1 to page 10)

However, in the technique described in Patent Document 1, separation may occur over time at a high temperature of about 50 ° C. Moreover, with the technique of the said patent document 2, the cosmetics obtained are turbid, and it was difficult to obtain the cosmetics clear and highly transparent. And in the technique of the said patent document 3, the oil which can be mix | blended is limited by the emulsifier to mix | blend, and when a paste-form oil was mix | blended in large quantities, it was difficult to emulsify. Furthermore, with the technique using clay minerals, the cosmetics are turbid, and it is difficult to obtain a clear and highly transparent cosmetic.

For this reason, it has high transparency, good smoothness at the time of application, and it has excellent moisturizing feeling by forming a decorative film that has excellent occlusion and water-holding properties at the application site. Development of hydrous oily cosmetics has been desired.

  As a result of intensive studies in the above situation, the present inventor has obtained a hydrous oily property that can solve the above problems by dispersing water as a water-soluble polymer solution or swelling liquid in oil containing a large amount of pasty oil. The present inventors have found that a cosmetic can be obtained and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (a) to (c);
(A) Paste oil 40-90 mass%
(B) Water 0.1-50 mass%
(C) Water-soluble polymer 0.01-2% by mass
A water-containing oily cosmetic characterized by comprising

  In addition, the present invention provides a water-containing oily cosmetic characterized in that the component (a) is petrolatum.

  And the said oil-containing cosmetics characterized by the said component (c) being xanthan gum are provided.

  Furthermore, as the component (d), any one of the water-containing oily cosmetics described above, wherein a wax having a melting point of 50 to 120 ° C. is blended.

The hydrous oily cosmetic of the present invention has high transparency, good smoothness at the time of application, excellent moisturizing sustainability by forming a cosmetic film excellent in occlusion and water retention at the application site, and high temperature Excellent over time.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, the hydrous oily cosmetic is a cosmetic in which water is dispersed in oil in a non-emulsified state. Further, the water-containing oily cosmetic of the present invention is a highly transparent cosmetic, unlike the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, which is cloudy.

  The pasty oil of component (a) used in the present invention is a component that serves as a dispersion medium for dispersing components (b) and (c), and is an oil that has an excellent effect of occluding human skin and lips with its oil film. Yes, it is an oil that does not flow at 20 ° C. Such pasty oils include petrolatum, monostearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, monohydroxystearic acid hydrogenated castor oil, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl oleate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid (12-hydroxystearic acid / Stearic acid / rosinic acid) ester, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-di (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-di (phytosteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), alkoxy modified silicone, alkyl Modified silicone etc. are mentioned, 1 type or 2 types or more can be used from these.

  By selecting petrolatum as the component (a), the occlusive property of the skin and lips is excellent, so that a water-containing oily cosmetic that is particularly excellent in the persistence of a moist feeling can be obtained.

  The blending amount of the component (a) in the hydrous oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is 40 to 90% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), and preferably 50 to 80%. If the blending amount of component (a) is less than 40%, the occlusion of the skin and lips is insufficient, and even if blending exceeds 90%, improvement in effect cannot be expected, and smoothness during application is reduced. It is not preferable.

  The water of the component (b) used in the present invention is a component that moisturizes the skin and lips, and includes water used in normal cosmetics, purified water, deionized water, plant water, deep layer water, and the like. One or more of these can be used.

  The compounding quantity of the component (b) in the hydrous oily cosmetics of this invention is 0.1 to 50%, and 1 to 30% is preferable. If the blending amount of component (b) is less than 0.1%, it will not give a moist feeling to the skin and lips, and if it exceeds 50%, it may cause a change with time, which is not preferable.

  The water-soluble polymer of the component (c) used in the present invention is a polymer that dissolves or swells in the component (b), and changes with time at a high temperature by gelling or thickening the component (b). It is a component to prevent. Such water-soluble polymers include methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer [trade names: CARBOPOL1342, PEMULEM TR-1, 2 (Good Synthetic polymer), carrageenan, agar, xanthan gum, gelatin, pectin [trade name: GENU GUM TYPE-RL-200J (manufactured by Copenhagen Pectin Factory), etc.], locust bean gum [trade name: Maypro LBG Frere M-175 (manufactured by Sansho Co., Ltd.)], guar gum, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, arabinogalactan, quince seedga And gellan gum, and one or more of these can be used.

  The compounding quantity of the component (c) in the water-containing oily cosmetic of the present invention is 0.01 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%. If the amount of component (c) is less than 0.01%, the change with time at high temperature cannot be suppressed, and even if the amount exceeds 2%, the improvement in the effect cannot be expected, which is not preferable.

  In addition to the above-mentioned components, the present invention can further suppress changes with time at high temperatures by blending a wax having a melting point of 50 to 120 ° C. as the component (d). Such waxes having a melting point of 50 to 120 ° C. are hydrocarbons such as polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, microcrystalline wax, montan wax, and Fischer-Trops wax. , Waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and gay wax, and hardened oils such as hardened castor oil. One or more of these can be used.

  0.1-20% is preferable and, as for the compounding quantity of the component (d) in the water-containing oily cosmetics of this invention, 1-10% is especially preferable. When the blending amount of component (d) is within this range, a water-containing oily cosmetic with a change over time at a higher temperature can be obtained.

  In the hydrous oily cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, oils other than the components (a) and (d), powders, surfactants, fibers, Film forming agent, ultraviolet absorber, alkali agent, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol, α-tocopherol, antioxidant such as ascorbic acid, polyhydric alcohol, lower alcohol, paraoxybenzoic acid derivative, phenoxyethanol And other preservatives such as vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, herbal medicines, fragrances and the like can be appropriately contained within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention.

  The oils other than the components (a) and (d) that can be blended in the present invention include hydrocarbons, fats and oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, regardless of the origin of animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, etc. , Silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, polybutene, polyisobutylene, α-olefin oligomer, light liquid isoparaffin, oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil, cetyl isooctanoate , Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid, Higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, low polymerization degree dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyl Silicone such as tetrasiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, trifluoropropylmethylcyclotetrasiloxane, trifluoropropylmethylcyclopentasiloxane, fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, lanolin acetate , Lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, and the like, and hardened oils can be used. One or more of these can be used.

  As powders that can be blended in the present invention, the powder components include spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, particle sizes such as pigment grades, porous, non-porous particle structures, etc. It is not particularly limited by, for example, inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders, etc. It is done. Specific examples include white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and barium sulfate, colored inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, carbon black, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen and ultramarine, talc and muscovite. Phlogopite, phlogopite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, siliceous earth, silicic anhydride, White body powder such as aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated bismuth oxychloride , Iron oxide mica titanium, bitumen treated mica titanium Carmine treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, glittering powder such as fish scale foil, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resin, cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, styrene-acrylic Copolymer resins such as copolymers, organic polymer resin powders such as polypropylene resins, silicone resins and urethane resins, organic low molecular weight powders such as zinc stearate and N-acyl lysine, starch, silk powder, cellulose powder, etc. Natural organic powder, red 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203, orange 204, blue 404, yellow 401, etc., organic pigment powder, red 3 , Red 104, red 106, orange 205, yellow 4, yellow 5, green 3, blue 1, etc. Organic pigment powders such as aluminum, barium and aluminum lakes, or metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder and silver powder, fine titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium dioxide containing titanium dioxide Examples include composite powders such as silicon and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polyolefin laminated film powder, lamellar agent of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder, etc. Or 2 or more types can be used. These powders are surface treated with fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, metal soap, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, esters, waxes, waxes, surfactants, etc. It can also be used.

  Surfactants that can be blended in the present invention are not used as emulsifiers, but as powder dispersants, wetting agents, and the like. Specifically, glycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, propylene glycol fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitan fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, fatty acid of sorbitol Esters and their alkylene glycol adducts, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ethers, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, lanolin alkylene glycol adducts, poly Nonionic interfaces such as oxyalkylene-modified silicone and polyoxyalkylene alkyl co-modified silicone , Fatty acid inorganic salts and organic salts such as stearic acid and lauric acid, alkylbenzenesulfone sulfate, alkylsulfonate, α-olefinsulfonate, dialkylsulfosuccinate, α-sulfonated fatty acid salt, acylmethyl Taurine salt, N-methyl-N-alkyl taurine salt, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfate, alkyl phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether Anionic surfactants such as phosphates, N-acyl amino acid salts, N-acyl-N-alkyl amino acid salts, o-alkyl substituted malates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylamine salts, polyamines and alkanolamine fatty acid derivatives , Al Cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium salts and cyclic quaternary ammonium salts, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethyl-N-carboxylmethylammonium betaine, N, N-dialkylaminoalkylene carboxylic acid, N, N , N-trialkyl-N-sulfoalkylene ammonium betaine, N, N-dialkyl-N, N-bis (polyoxyethylene sulfate) ammonium betaine, 2-alkyl-1-hydroxyethyl-1-carboxymethylimidazolinium Examples include amphoteric surfactants such as betaine and lecithin, and one or more of these can be used.

  Examples of fibers that can be blended in the present invention include synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester, natural fibers such as cellulose, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate silk, and one or more of these can be used. These fibers are surface-treated with fluorine compound, silicone compound, metal soap, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, hydrocarbon, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, ester, wax, wax, surfactant, etc. Can also be used.

  Film forming agents that can be blended in the present invention include acrylic-silicone copolymers, film-forming resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, (meth) acrylic acid / (meth) acrylic acid alkyl copolymer emulsions, (meta ) Alkyl acrylate / styrene copolymer emulsions, polyvinyl acetate emulsions, vinyl pyrrolidone / styrene copolymer emulsions, polymer emulsions such as silicone polymer emulsions, and the like. One or more of these may be used. it can.

  Examples of the ultraviolet absorber that can be blended in the present invention include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzones, and the like. One kind or two or more kinds can be used.

  Although the manufacturing method of the hydrous oily cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, for example, the component (c) is added to the component (b), dissolved or swollen, and this is added to the component (a) to be dispersed. And the like.

  The form of the hydrous oily cosmetic composition of the present invention may be any of solid, semi-solid (gel), liquid, etc., but if it is semi-solid (gel), the smoothness during application is better. is there.

  The hydrous oil-based cosmetics of the present invention include lipsticks, lip balms, lip glosses, foundations, concealers, eye shadows, bases, eyeliners, mascara and other makeup cosmetics, cosmetics, basic cosmetics such as massages, and hair cosmetics. Among them, the effects of the present invention are more prominent among lip cosmetics such as lipsticks, lip balms, and lip glosses.

EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is further demonstrated, this invention is not limited at all by this.

Examples 1 to 12 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Semi-solid (gelled) lip balm Lip balms having the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 3 below were prepared by the following production method, and “smoothness during application” and “moisturizing” Each item of “sustainability of feeling” and “stable with time” was evaluated by the following evaluation methods, and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 3.

(Manufacturing method) A: The components 7-12 are mixed uniformly. B: Components 1 to 8 are heated and mixed uniformly. C: [A] is added to [B] and uniformly dispersed. D: [C] was heated, defoamed, and then filled into a tube container to obtain a semi-solid (gel) lip balm.

[Evaluation item 1: “Smoothness at the time of application”, “Durability of moistness”] 20 female panels with a makeup history of 10 years or more used the lip balms of the above examples and comparative examples, and each sample. About each evaluation item of "smoothness at the time of application | coating" and "sustainability of a moist feeling", the following (I) 5 grades absolute evaluation criteria were given a score. Thereafter, the average score of each material was determined using the following (b) four-step criteria.

(B) 5 grade absolute evaluation criteria (rating) (rating) 5 points: very good 4 points: good 3 points: normal 2 points: bad 1 point: very bad (b) 4-step judging standard (average of grades) Value) (Judgment) Average point 4.5 or more: ◎ Average point 3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○ Average point 2.5 or more and less than 3.5: △ Average point less than 2.5: ×

[Evaluation item 2: “Stability over time at high temperature”] The lip balms of the examples and comparative examples were stored in a thermostatic bath at 50 ° C. for 2 weeks, the state after 2 weeks was visually confirmed, and the liquid ( The degree of water separation) was determined using the following (c) 4-step criteria. (C) 4-step criteria: (state observation results) (judgment)
No change: ◎
Very little water droplets can be seen inside the tube, but no drainage: ○
There is a slight drainage at the top of the bulk: △
There is separation at the top of the bulk: ×

As is clear from the results of Tables 1 to 3, the semi-solid (gel-like) lip balms of Examples 1 to 12 of the present invention are all “smooth when applied” and “sustainability of moisture”. "It was a water-containing oily cosmetic excellent in all items of" Stability with time at high temperature ". In addition, the semi-solid (gel-like) lip balms of Examples 1 to 12 were water-containing oily cosmetics with high transparency and no turbidity. On the other hand, the comparative example 1 which does not mix | blend a component (b) was inferior to the sustainability of a moist feeling. Moreover, the comparative example 2 which did not mix | blend a component (c) produced drainage and separation at high temperature, and its temporal stability at high temperature was inferior. And since the comparative example 3 whose compounding quantity of a component (a) is less than 40% cannot fully obstruct | occlude a lip, the sustainability of a moist feeling was inferior. Furthermore, Comparative Example 4 that would be a water-in-oil emulsification type had poor transparency and poor temporal stability at high temperatures.

Example 13: Stick-shaped lipstick (Ingredient) (%)
1. Ethylene / propylene copolymer (mp 95 ° C) 7
2. Polyethylene wax (mp 105 ° C.) 1
3. Paraffin wax (mp 60 ° C.) 2
4). N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl
Behenyl 2-octyldodecyl) (Note 4) 40
5). 5. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount Carrageenan 0.1
7). Locust bean gum 0.3
8.1,3-Butylene glycol 5
9. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.2
10. Purified water 15
11. Bengala 3.5
12 Yellow iron oxide 2
13. Black iron oxide 0.3
14 Mica titanium 5
15. Titanium oxide 1
16. Fragrance 0.1
* Note 4: El Dew PS-304 (Ajinomoto Co., Inc.)

(Manufacturing method) A: The components 6-10 are mixed uniformly. B: Components 1 to 5 are dissolved by heating, and components 11 to 15 are added and uniformly dispersed. C: [A] and component 16 are added to [B] and dispersed uniformly.
D: [C] was heated to 90 ° C., defoamed, and then filled into a stick container to obtain a stick-shaped lipstick.
The stick-shaped lipstick of Example 13 was a water-containing oily cosmetic excellent in all items of “smoothness during application”, “sustainability of moisturizing”, and “stable with time”. In addition, the stick-shaped lipstick of Example 13 was a water-containing oily cosmetic without turbidity.

Example 14: Semi-solid (gel) eye shadow (component) (%)
1. Dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester (Note 5) 50
2. 2. Remaining cetyl octanoate Methylphenylpolysiloxane 12
4). Carboxyvinyl polymer (Note 6) 0.2
5). Phenoxyethanol 0.2
6). Purified water 10
7). Triethanolamine 0.01
8). Glycerin 5
9. Silicone-treated Bengala (Note 7) 0.1
10. Silicone-treated yellow iron oxide (Note 7) 1.5
11. Silicone-treated black iron oxide (Note 7) 0.1
12 Synthetic phlogopite (Note 8) 5
13. Titanium oxide coated glass flakes (Note 9) 8
14 Polyethylene terephthalate ・ Polymethylmethacrylate laminated film powder (Note 10) 1
* Note 5: Cosmall 168AR (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)
* Note 6: CARBOPOL940 (manufactured by Goodrich Chemical)
* Note 7: 1.5% treatment with methyl hydrogen polysiloxane * Note 8: PDM-40L (Topy Industries, Ltd.)
* Note 9: Metashine 1080RC-R (Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)
* Note 10: Aurora Flakes Blue (Kakuhachi Fish Scale)

(Manufacturing method) A: The components 4-8 are mixed uniformly. B: Components 1 to 3 are dissolved by heating, and components 9 to 14 are added and dispersed uniformly. C: [A] is added to [B] and uniformly dispersed.
D: A tube container was filled with [C] to obtain a semi-solid (gel) eye shadow.
The semi-solid (gel-like) eye shadow of Example 14 is a water-containing oily cosmetic excellent in all items of “smoothness at the time of application”, “sustainability of moisture”, and “stability over time at high temperature”. Met. In addition, the semi-solid (gel) eye shadow of Example 14 was a water-containing oily cosmetic without turbidity.

that's all

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (c);
(A) Paste oil 40-90 mass%
(B) Water 0.1-50 mass%
(C) Water-soluble polymer 0.01-2% by mass
A hydrous oil-based cosmetic characterized by comprising   The water-containing oily cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (a) is petrolatum.   The hydrous oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (c) is xanthan gum.   The water-containing oily cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a wax having a melting point of 50 to 120 ° C as the component (d).