JP2005120515A - Inner woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an inner woven fabric having lightweightness, softness, moderate bulkiness and stretchability, thus giving comfortableness when worn, causing no mechanical trouble in its weaving operation, and slight in width shrinkage when dyed. <P>SOLUTION: The inner woven fabric is a weft stretch fabric whose weft consists of a bulky covered elastic yarn obtained by twisting a false-twist textured yarn of polyamide multifilament 0.81-1.35 dtex in single filament fineness with a polyurethane elastic yarn 16.7-27.8 dtex in fineness and heat-setting the resultant yarn in a slackened condition, wherein the total fineness of the weft is 83.3-244.2 dtex and the basis weight of the inner woven fabric is 100-115 g/m<SP>2</SP>. This inner woven fabric uses the bulky covered elastic yarns of low stress and high elongation as the constituent wefts for trunks intended for persons of middle or advanced age class in particular and is woven in a rough warp density, therefore this inner woven fabric has a combined property of lightweightness, moderate weft stretchability and softness. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to an inner fabric improved as an underwear fabric, and more particularly to an inner fabric that can be applied as a trunks fabric for middle-aged and elderly people.

  Recent men's stretchable fabrics for trunks are generally designed for young people and fashion is important, and trunks for middle-aged and older people have the downside that they cannot cover their body shape. It can be said that the satisfaction at the time of wearing is not fully obtained.

  In addition, most of the products in the current market are trunks made of non-stretchable cotton fabric, but some weft-stretchable ones have too much stretch and are too hard and heavy. Has drawbacks.

These disadvantageous characteristics are the so-called sheer prevention and the trend of emphasizing tension and waist, and the use of warp and weft yarns with medium-thick spun yarns. A single-covered yarn in which a polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn is swirled and coated with a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn or a core spun yarn with a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn and a span yarn as a sheath is used. There is.
As a technique for covering the above-mentioned defects due to the use of these wefts, there is a polyamide multifilament coated elastic yarn with improved extensibility and bulkiness (see Patent Document 1).

JP 2003-201636 A (Claim 1, paragraph [0001])

  However, the inner fabric of the current market is heavy as a trunks for middle-aged and elderly people, is not stretchable, has stretchability, is too strong, and has a firm feel when worn. There is a problem that the functionality is not satisfied.

  In addition, these inner fabrics such as trunks fabrics are manufactured with emphasis on good appearance as fashion pants for younger age groups, and are suitable for middle-aged and older people in terms of the material, thread form, woven design, and dyed finish of the inner fabrics. The trunks characteristics were not satisfactory.

  And, the wefts of the conventional weft stretch fabric use single-covered yarns or core-spun yarns covered with spun yarns, so the polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn turns the hollow spindle in the same direction as the twisted twist direction. The sliver is wound on the polyurethane core yarn under the balloon-like tension by the yarn, or the sliver is covered with the twisted yarn with the polyurethane elastic yarn as the core in the spinning process. Had the disadvantage of hardening.

  This covering twisted covered elastic yarn has a problem that the elongation and recovery stress is large, and the weft stretchability of the inner fabric is too strong. Was.

  On the other hand, in the case of the core spun yarn, since it is covered with the sheath portion of the spun yarn having no stretchability, the stretch / elongation rate is reduced and the recovery stress is large, resulting in a heavy and hard texture.

  In addition, these elastic yarns all have a strong recovery stress in the weft direction, so the width shrinkage rate during dyeing is large, and it is difficult to finish to the desired width. Even when the temperature was raised, there were many drawbacks such as shrinkage due to changes over time and repeated washing before and after trunks sewing, and dimensional change and texture were cured.

  Therefore, the object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as an inner fabric, it has lightness and softness, moderate bulkiness and stretchability, and is comfortable when worn, and mechanical during weaving. It is to make an inner fabric without causing problems and having a small width shrinkage rate at the time of dyeing.

In order to solve the above problems, in the present invention, a polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.81 to 1.35 dtex and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 16.7 to 27.8 dtex are combined. It consists of a weft stretch fabric using a bulky covered elastic yarn twisted and heat-set in a relaxed state as a weft. The weft has a total fineness of 83.3 to 244.2 dtex and a basis weight of 100 to 115 g / m ^2. The inner fabric is characterized by being

  That is, the bulky covered elastic yarn used as the weft for the interwoven weft stretchable inner fabric of the present invention is a false twist of polyamide multifilament having a total fineness of 83.3 to 244.2 dtex and a single fiber fineness of 0.81 to 1.35 dtex. After twisting the twisted yarn in the untwisted direction of the false twisted yarn so that the residual torque increases in the twisted state where the processed yarn and the polyurethane elastic yarn stretched 2.6 to 3.5 times are aligned, this yarn is over A low-stress, high-elongation, bulky coated elastic yarn that is heat-set in a relaxed state of the feed and relaxes the recovery stress.

The inner woven fabric of the present invention has a basis weight in the range of 100 to 115 g / m ² , preferably in the range of 100 to 110 g / m ² , and even more preferably the woven fabric has a thickness of 0.3 to 0.35 mm. If it exists, it will become a lightweight basis weight with a sense of volume, and will be able to satisfy a soft feeling.

  The preferred cotton yarn as the warp is 30-50. At this time, the woven density of the warp of the woven fabric is 100 to 115 yarns / 2.54 cm (the unit of woven density conventionally used is [lines / inch]), and the weave density of the weft yarn is 55 to 55 cm. If the inner fabric has 65 wefts / 2.54 cm and the weft elongation is 90 to 120%, more preferably the weft elongation recovery rate is 70 to 90%, it is functional in terms of wearing trunks. Appropriate elasticity without cramping can be imparted. In addition, since the stretching stress in the weft direction is small, the weft dimension change rate is −1.0% or less, and dimensional stability can be maintained even after repeated washing.

  The inner fabric has a weft softness of 20 to 25 mm, more preferably 20 to 23 mm even after washing, so that the softness can be further maintained.

  The inner woven fabric of the present invention is a bulky covered elastic yarn in which a polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn of a predetermined single fiber fineness and a polyurethane elastic yarn of a predetermined fineness are twisted and heat-set in a relaxed state. When used with the weft stretch fabric, the total weft of the weft is in a predetermined range, and the basis weight is in a predetermined range, so that it has lightness and softness as an inner fabric, moderate bulkiness and stretchability. There is an advantage that the mechanical comfort during weaving is not caused, and the width shrinkage rate is small during dyeing.

  The inner woven fabric of the present invention is woven at a coarse warp density using low-stress and high-elongation bulky elastic yarns for wefts that form woven fabrics especially for middle-aged and older trunks. It has the characteristics that have both the elasticity and softness.

  In addition, this product is light in terms of being excellent in bulky volume feeling and easily secures a target sufficient finishing width, so that dimensional stability in a dyeing process and a textile product can be enhanced.

  Since the coated elastic yarn used has low stress and good converging properties, the inner fabric of this invention has less loss rate generation and M / C stoppage in the weaving and dyeing processes, and has higher passability in higher processes. There is also an advantage that it can be increased.

Below, embodiment and the Example of the inner fabric of this invention are described.
The inner woven fabric used in the trunks for middle-aged and elderly groups of the embodiment of the present invention is a polyamide that serves as a sheath so that it is lightweight and has an appropriate stretchability and soft texture. A low-stress, bulky-covered elastic yarn composed of a multifilament false twisted yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn is used as a weft, and a cotton yarn is used as a warp.

Such a weft stretchable inner fabric has a total weight of 83.3 to 244.2 dtex and is made of a bulky covered elastic yarn. 100 to 115 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.25 to 0.35 mm, a warp weave density of 100 to 115 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a weft yarn density of 55 to 65 yarns / 2.54 cm.

  As shown in FIG. 1, the bulky covered elastic yarn Y used for the inner base fabric is a false twisted yarn A made of polyamide multifilament (filament aggregate) so that it is particularly lightweight and has a sense of volume and softness. The residual torque force is increased by twisting in the untwist direction of the false twisted yarn in the combined yarn state while stretching the polyurethane elastic yarn B and the polyurethane elastic yarn B. At this time, the crimp waveform of the false twist yarn A is three-dimensional. The filament assembly is changed to a coil shape by changing from a typical shape to a two-dimensional tendency.

  Since the polyurethane elastic yarn B serving as the core is covered with the sheath having such a coil shape, the tightening force to the elastic yarn is reduced, the bulkiness of the coated elastic yarn Y is increased, and the volume feeling of the inner ground is further described later. The recovery stress of the polyurethane elastic yarn B due to heat setting in a relaxed state is moderately reduced, and the basis weight of the inner fabric is further reduced.

  By using this bulky covered elastic yarn Y for the weft, the weft shrinkage rate is reduced even if the warp weave density is coarse, which promotes weight reduction and soft feeling. In addition, if the thickness of the inner fabric is within the range of 0.3 to 0.35 mm in terms of the basis weight due to the feeling of wearing as a trunks and the need for opacity, the volume feeling is improved, and the desired tension and elasticity are achieved. (Koshi) can be given.

  The polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn A, which is the sheath yarn of the weft coated elastic yarn Y, preferably has a fineness of 78 to 167 dtex and a filament count of 50 to 120 in order to obtain a bulky and soft feeling of the fabric due to its bulk. A high multifilament false twisted yarn having a single filament fineness of 0.81 to 1.35 dtex is used.

  Polyurethane elastic yarn B has a fineness of 16.7 to 27.8 dtex and is a polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn drafted 2.6 to 3.5 times during assembling with the polyamide multifilament processed yarn. Are twisted in the untwisting direction.

  The inner woven fabric of the embodiment has a suitable weft stretchability for thick waist sizes of middle-aged and elderly people, can obtain comfortable functionality as trunks, and the polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn and polyurethane elastic yarn, By heat-setting the coated elastic yarn at an overfeed rate, the crimped form of the false twisted yarn is expanded into a coil shape, and at the same time, the recovery stress of the polyurethane elastic yarn is reduced, and the target elastic elastic yarn is stretched A suitable range with an elongation of 110 to 150% and a stretch elastic modulus of 60 to 85% can be obtained.

  More preferably, the stretch elongation rate is 130 to 140%, and the stretch elastic modulus is 70 to 80%. In order to obtain an appropriate weft stretchable inner fabric using the coated elastic yarn as a weft, the combination of the warp and weft density ranges has a fabric weft elongation rate of 100 to 120% and a weft elongation recovery rate of 80 to 90%. It is more suitable for the trunks.

  In addition, by setting the coated elastic yarn while running loosely with overfeed, it is possible to reduce the recovery stress of the polyurethane elastic yarn that becomes the core yarn and the boiling water shrinkage of the polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn. The width shrinkage rate in the dyeing process of 35 to 40% is reduced, and the target setting width and setting temperature can be lowered, so that the soft texture of the inner fabric is maintained and the weft dimension The rate of change is −1.0% or less, and the dimensional stability can be maintained even when the trunks are washed repeatedly. On the other hand, as shown in Comparative Example 1 described later, the width of the inner base fabric using the single covering yarn as the weft showed a significantly larger value than in Example 1.

  The inner base fabric of the embodiment is soft when the weft softness in the weft direction is 20 to 25 mm, and has a good feeling of wear. Can be maintained, and it becomes an inner fabric that does not impair moderate elasticity and softness by washing.

Although the Example and comparative example of an inner fabric are shown below, the evaluation measurement result was measured with the following method.
(i) Weight per unit area: Measured based on JIS L1096.
(ii) Thickness: Measured using a “Daiei Science Seiki Seisakusho” thickness measuring machine CR50A based on JIS L1096.
(iii) Woven density: measured based on JIS L1096.

(ix) Textile elongation rate (wet), stretch recovery rate (lat): Measured based on JIS L1096 A method.
(v) Dimensional change rate (wet): Washing treatment JIS L1096 G method, “treatment method” JIS L0217 103 method Measured based on tumble drying.
(vi) Bending softness (wet): Measured by using a cantilever type testing machine based on JIS L1096, “Daiei Science Seiki Seisakusho”.

(vii) Stretch elongation rate of stretched elastic yarn, stretch elasticity modulus Stretch elongation rate (%) = {(b−a) / a} × 100
Elastic modulus of elasticity (%) = {(bc) / (ba)} × 100

A, b, and c in the above formula represent the following values.
a: Length of sample at the beginning (cm)
b: Length of the sample when a heavy load is applied (cm)
c: Length of sample after recovery (cm)

(viii) Residual torque twist number Residual torque twist number is the center part of the yarn due to swirl twist by residual torque force when both ends of the polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn and coated elastic yarn after combined twist / heat setting are combined. The number of twists in which a twist is formed.
Measuring method of residual torque twist number: Fix both ends of yarn length of 1m with the upper and lower clamps of the measuring jig under the load of 0.2cN of the measured fineness at the yarn end of the sample, and rotate the measuring jig 90 ° in the horizontal direction And level. Mark the center (50 cm) of both clamps, apply a load of 0.0059 cN to twice the measured fineness, quickly align the clamps at both ends, wait until the rotation stops, and unwind the yarn with an inspection machine. The number of rotations read by twisting is expressed as a residual torque twist number “T / M”.

  The bulky covered elastic yarn used as the weft consists of a sheath multi-filament S twisted false twisted yarn of 111 dtex and 80 filament polyamide multifilament and a 16.6 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn used as the core yarn. 450 T / M combined twist was applied to the Z twist which is the twist direction. The twisting machine at this time was a ring twister with a draft device, the draft was 2.9 times, the processing speed was 16 m / min, and the tension after the ring tensor was 7.3 to 8.3 cN.

  The number of residual torque twists in this twisted yarn was S twisted 286 T / M, and a false twisted yarn serving as a sheath portion was overtwisted to obtain a twisted yarn.

  The obtained twisted yarn was heat set using a heat setting machine in the next step. The processing speed was 110 m / min, the set temperature was 175 ° C., the overfeed rate was 28%, the winding feed rate was 1.7%, and the tension after the ring tensor was 3.5 to 4.1 cN.

  The resultant twisted / heat set-covered elastic yarn thus obtained has a residual torque twist number of 151 T / M and maintains the bulkiness of the polyamide multifilament, and has a stretch elongation of 148.8% and a stretch elastic modulus of 73. A value of 2% was obtained. Although the elongation characteristics are approximately similar to those of the covering yarn of Comparative Example 1 described later, the heat setting effect is smaller in terms of recovery power.

  The obtained weft bulky covered elastic yarn having a total fineness of 116.9 dtex and warp yarn were 40th cotton yarn, and a woven fabric was woven by an air jet loom. The width of the raw machine at this time is 173 cm, and using a circular dyeing machine, the regular scouring and dyeing process of stretch fabric is performed, the width after dyeing is 106 cm, and the shrinkage ratio for the raw machine is 38.7%. However, these values were significantly smaller than those of the fabric using the covering weft of Comparative Example 1 described later. The finishing width is set to 115 cm, the finishing temperature is 170 ° C., and the setting time is 40 seconds. The finished width is 112 cm and the weft density of the weft yarn is 62.0 yarns / 2.54 cm, and the weaving density of the warp yarn is 107.2 yarns / 2. 54 cm.

  The physical properties of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 of the finished fabric thus obtained were evaluated, and the measurement results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1

  Example 1 Using a polyurethane elastic yarn of 16.6 dtex that becomes a core yarn after winding a bobbin wound with an ordinary bobbin winding of a polyamide multifilament false yarn of 111 filaments of sheath yarn used in Example 1 in an ordinary covering process. The same draft was 2.9 times, the number of twists was 450 T / M, and the swirling direction was covered in the S twisting direction of the false twisted yarn that had been conventionally applied from the viewpoint of coverage.

  The residual torque twist number of the coated elastic yarn obtained by the covering method obtained above is extremely small as 7.5 T / M as compared with Example 1, and the weft yarn is inferior in terms of bulkiness in the form of a tightened yarn in which multifilaments are converged. It was. The stretch elongation is 150.7%, which is not much different from the twisted / heat-set covered elastic yarn, but the stretch elastic modulus is 93.6% which is a high value, and the stretch elastic power is too strong and the coated elastic yarn has high recovery stress .

  The width of the green machine obtained by weaving the coated elastic yarn used in Comparative Example 1 with the same weft as in Example 1 under the same weaving density conditions is 168 cm, and the width after dyeing is further narrowed to 89 cm. The shrinkage percentage was as large as 47.0%. Furthermore, in order to finish to the target width of 110 cm, even if the finishing temperature is set at 120 ° C. and the finishing temperature is 180 ° C. and the setting time is 50 seconds, which is severer than the finishing conditions of Example 1, the finished fabric has a narrow fabric width of 93 cm. The power was so strong that the texture became hard and the basis weight was heavy. These defects were smaller than those of Example 1 of the present invention, in terms of the physical properties of the fabric, with a weft elongation rate of 76.3% and a weft elongation recovery rate of 61.1%.

The reason for such a result is that, in Comparative Example 1, the elastic modulus of elasticity of the covering yarn is too high, and the shrinkage rate in the width direction during dyeing becomes large. Trunks using such an inner woven fabric have a hard texture and are difficult to extend in the weft direction, and the recovery power is too strong.
On the other hand, as shown in Table 1, in Example 1, a target inner width was kept as compared with Comparative Example 1, and a soft inner woven fabric excellent in light and moderate stretchability was obtained.

The expanded side view of the covering elastic yarn used for the inner ground fabric of an embodiment

Explanation of symbols

A false twisted yarn B polyurethane elastic yarn Y coated elastic yarn

Claims (5)

A bulky coated elastic yarn in which a polyamide multifilament false twisted yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.81-1.35 dtex and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 16.7-27.8 dtex are twisted and heat-set in a relaxed state An inner base fabric, characterized in that it is made of a weft stretchable woven fabric using as a weft, the weft has a total fineness of 83.3 to 244.2 dtex, and a basis weight of 100 to 115 g / m ² .   The weft stretchable inner fabric according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the fabric is 0.25 to 0.35 mm.   It consists of a woven fabric having a weft density of 100 to 115 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 55 to 65 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a weft elongation of 90 to The inner base fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the inner fabric is 120% and a weft elongation recovery rate is 70 to 90%.   The inner base fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weft dimension change rate of the fabric is -1.0% or less.   The inner base fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the bending resistance in the weft direction is 20 to 25 mm.

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