JP2004339101A - UTILIZATION OF delta-TOCOPHERYL RETINOATE FOR EXTERNAL PREPARATION FOR SKIN - Google Patents

UTILIZATION OF delta-TOCOPHERYL RETINOATE FOR EXTERNAL PREPARATION FOR SKIN Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2004339101A
JP2004339101A JP2003135313A JP2003135313A JP2004339101A JP 2004339101 A JP2004339101 A JP 2004339101A JP 2003135313 A JP2003135313 A JP 2003135313A JP 2003135313 A JP2003135313 A JP 2003135313A JP 2004339101 A JP2004339101 A JP 2004339101A
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Japan
Prior art keywords
retinoic acid
tocopheryl
skin
effect
wrinkle
Prior art date
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Pending
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JP2003135313A
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Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Kazuko Inoue
和子 井上
Yuji Eda
雄二 枝
Shoichi Yahagi
彰一 矢作
Yuri Okano
由利 岡野
Hitoshi Masaki
仁 正木
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cosmos Technical Center Co Ltd
Nikko Chemicals Co Ltd
Nippon Surfactant Industries Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Cosmos Technical Center Co Ltd
Nikko Chemicals Co Ltd
Nippon Surfactant Industries Co Ltd
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Priority to JP2003135313A priority Critical patent/JP2004339101A/en
Publication of JP2004339101A publication Critical patent/JP2004339101A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To find a derivative which effectively utilizes the wrinkle-improving effect of retinoic acid, has an excellent skin ageing-improving effect, and does not cause a skin-irritating property and the like. <P>SOLUTION: δ-tocopheryl retinoate is effective for improving wrinkles, exhibits an excellent skin ageing-preventing effect, and has an extremely small skin irritation property. Since the δ-tocopheryl residue has a high anti-oxidizing action as a vitamin E derivative, it can be expected that the δ-tocopheryl retinoate has an extremely effective skin-beautifying action by synergistic effects with the skin ageing-preventing effect and wrinkle-improving effect of the retinoic acid. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【0001】
【発明が属する技術分野】
本発明は、レチノイン酸誘導体のシワ改善を目的とした皮膚外用剤への利用に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
レチノイン酸の皮膚に対する作用は、上皮組織や粘膜の正常な構造及び機能の維持であり、皮膚組織の成長・発育等の生理作用にも関係があるとされる。またレチノイン酸はその皮脂腺萎縮作用からアクネ治療剤として利用され、その後シワ改善効果が確認され、欧米ではしわ防止化粧品として注目されている。ヘアレスマウスを用いた研究によれば、線維芽細胞機能が正常化され、コラーゲン合成が増加し、グルコサミノグリカンも増加することによりしわが改善されることが報告(日本香粧品科学会誌,16(3),182p)されている。
【0003】
しかしながら、レチノイン酸はこれらの有用な作用を持つものの、皮膚刺激性等の種々の副作用が報告され、日本では使用することが出来ない。
【0004】
これらを改善するための方法としてレチノイン酸のα−トコフェロール誘導体、すなわちレチノイン酸α−トコフェリルが報告(特公昭59−22684号、特開昭53−15429号等)されている。しかしビタミンE誘導体として高い抗酸化作用を有するδ−トコフェロールのレチノイン酸誘導体としての報告は無い。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
レチノイン酸の皮膚老化防止効果、シワ改善効果を有効に利用し、かつ皮膚刺激性等を起こすことの無い誘導体を見出すことを本発明の課題とした。
【0006】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者等は種々のレチノイン酸誘導体について鋭意研究した結果、レチノイン酸のδ−トコフェロール誘導体、すなわちレチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルが皮膚刺激性を抑制し、かつ皮膚老化防止効果、シワ改善効果に有効であることを見出した。またδ−トコフェリル残基はビタミンE誘導体として高い抗酸化作用を有することから、レチノイン酸の皮膚老化防止効果、シワ改善効果との相乗効果により、極めて有効な美肌作用を有することを確認するに至り、本発明を完成したのである。
【0007】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明で用いるレチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルはレチノイン酸とδ−トコフェロールから、通常のエステル化反応により合成することが出来る。
【0008】
本発明で用いるレチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルのレチノイン酸残基としてはレチノイン酸であれば特に制限されることは無く、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸、13−cis−レチノイン酸、11−cis−レチノイン酸、9−cis−レチノイン酸を、あるいはこれらの任意の混合体を用いることが出来る。これらの中でALL−trans−レチノイン酸が特に好ましい。
【0009】
本発明で用いるレチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルのδ−トコフェロール残基としては、δ−トコフェロールであれば特に制限されることは無く、d−δ−トコフェロール、l−δ−トコフェロール、及びこれらの混合体であるdl−δ−トコフェロールを、あるいはこれらの任意の混合体を用いることが出来る。これらの中でd−δ−トコフェロールが特に好ましい。
【0010】
本発明で用いるレチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルの皮膚外用剤における添加量は、特に制限されることは無いが、好ましくは0.001重量%以上で、更に好ましくは0.01重量%以上である。また添加量の上限は特に制限されることは無いが、実質的には5重量%以下、好ましくは2重量%以下である。
【0011】
本発明の皮膚外用剤には、上記成分のほか本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で化粧品、医薬部外品などの皮膚外用剤に配合される成分として動植物油由来の硬化油、天然由来のロウ、炭化水素系の油相成分、動植物由来の油相成分、シリコーン系の油相成分、フッ素系の油相成分、高級アルコール、増粘剤、紫外線吸収剤、粉体、顔料、陰イオン性界面活性剤、陽イオン性界面活性剤、非イオン性界面活性剤、多価アルコール、糖、高分子化合物、生理活性成分、経皮吸収促進剤、溶媒、酸化防止剤、香料、防腐剤等を配合することができる。
【0012】
【実施例】
以下に実施例を挙げて本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明の技術的範囲がこれらに限定されるものではない。
【0013】
先ず、レチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルとしてALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルを用い、活性酸素のモデル物質として通常用いられる1,1−diphenyl−2−picryl−hydrazyl(DPPH)の減少率から、活性酸素消去能を示す。
【0014】
(試験例1)活性酸素消去作用の評価
表1に示す濃度のALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリル、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸、dl−δ−トコフェロールを用いて、活性酸素消去作用の評価を行った。これらの試料と、DPPHを37℃で2時間反応させた後、DPPHの減少率を516nmの吸光度を測定することにより調べた。その結果を表1に示す。
【0015】
【表1】

Figure 2004339101
表1に見られるように、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルはDPPHの減少させる効果を示し、レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルの活性酸素消去作用の有効性が分かる。
【0016】
次に、同様にALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルによる、過酸化脂質が引き起こす細胞障害に対する緩和作用を示す。すなわち、過酸化脂質のモデル物質として通常用いられるtert−butylhydroperoxide(t−BHP)による細胞障害に対する緩和作用を以下に示す。
【0017】
(試験例2)過酸化脂質による細胞障害に対する緩和作用の評価
表2に示す濃度のALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリル、及び比較としてALL−trans−レチノイン酸、dl−δ−トコフェロールを用いて、これらの試料を含有する培地にてHaCat cellを24時間培養した。その後培地を除去し、1mMのt−BHPにて37℃で5時間処理した。その後の細胞生存率をNR assayにより求め、過酸化脂質による細胞障害に対する緩和作用を評価した。
【0018】
【表2】
Figure 2004339101
表2に見られるようにALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルは細胞生存率を向上させる効果を示し、レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルの過酸化脂質による細胞障害に対する緩和作用の有効性が分かる。
【0019】
次に、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルによる、細胞への紫外線照射に対するコラーゲン分解酵素の生成抑制の効果をそのメッセンジャーレベル、及びコラーゲン分解酵素の生成から示す。
【0020】
(試験例3)コラーゲン分解酵素のメッセンジャーレベルからの、コラーゲン分解酵素の生成抑制作用の評価
ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリル、及び比較としてALL−trans−レチノイン酸を用い、これらの試料を2.5μM含有する培地にてHaCat cellを24時間培養した後、20J/cmの紫外線(UVA)を6時間照射した。照射後、細胞からtotal RNAを抽出し、Reverse Transcriptase−Polymerase Chain Reaction(RT−PCR)法によりMMP−9のmRNAの発現を観察した。
【0021】
その結果、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルは、MMP−9のmRNA発現量は約70%に抑制されたのに対し、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸では抑制効果は全く見られなかった。
【0022】
(試験例4)コラーゲン分解酵素の生成量からの、コラーゲン分解酵素の生成抑制作用の評価
ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリル、及び比較例としてALL−trans−レチノイン酸を用い、これらの試料を2.5μM含有する培地にてHaCat cellを24時間培養した後、20J/cmの紫外線(UVA)を6時間照射した。照射後、HaCat cellの培養上清を用いてMMP−2及びMMP−9のザイモグラフィーを実施した。
【0023】
その結果、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルは、MMP−9の発現を約75%に抑制し、またMMP−2についても抑制する効果を示した。一方、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸では抑制効果は見られなかった。
【0024】
次に、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルによるコラーゲン合成促進を、タイプIコラーゲンのELISAによる定量から示す。
【0025】
(試験例5)コラーゲン合成促進作用の評価
ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリル、及び比較例としてALL−trans−レチノイン酸を用い、これらの試料を表3に示す濃度を含有する培地にて、Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast(NHDF)を24時間培養した。培養上清をELIZAプレートに移し、一晩4℃にてコーティングした。0.05%Tween20含有PBS(−)(PBS−T)で洗浄した後、1%bovine serum albumin溶液を用いて37℃にて1時間コーティングした。PBS−Tにて洗浄後、抗タイプIコラーゲン抗体溶液と37℃で1時間反応させ、次いで二次抗体としてHISTOFINE(simple stain PO(R))を用いて37℃で1時間反応させた。2,2’−azinobis(3−ethylbenzothiazoline−6−sulfonic acid(ABTS)を添加し、30分後の呈色を405nmの吸光度により測定した。同時に作成した検量線により培地中に含まれるコラーゲンを定量した。
【0026】
その結果を表3に示す。
【0027】
【表3】
Figure 2004339101
表3に示されるようにALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルは用いた線維芽細胞の培養上清中のコラーゲン量は濃度に依存して増加し、10μMにおいてはコントロールと比較して168%にまで増大した。
一方、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸では増大効果は見られなかった。
【0028】
次に、実際の皮膚外用剤におけるALL−trans−レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルのシワ改善効果を示す。
【0029】
実施例1:シワ改善クリーム
(処方)
Figure 2004339101
(調製法)
水中油型乳化組成物の調製法の定法に従い、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルを含有するシワ改善クリームを調製した。
【0030】
比較例1(シワ改善クリーム比較用のクリームの調製)
実施例1のシワ改善クリームの処方からALL−trans−レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルを除いた処方により、同様の調製法により比較用のクリームを調製した。
【0031】
(シワ改善効果の評価)
表4に示す8名の被験者に、実施例1のクリーム、及び比較例1のクリーム約0.1g程度を毎日2回(朝晩)両目尻の一方づつに塗布した。塗布前、及び塗布90日後に目尻の塗布部分から定法に従ってレプリカを採取し、以下のシワ面積率の測定法、及び最大シワ深さの測定法によりシワ面積率、及び最大シワ深さを求め、塗布前、及び塗布後のシワ面積率、及び最大シワ深さの変化率を求めた。
【0032】
(シワ面積率の測定法)
目尻から採取したレプリカに、斜め30°から光を照射し、生じた影の面積を画像解析システムによる2値化法により測定し、下記の式により相対シワ面積率を求めた。
[相対シワ面積率(%)]=([シワの影の総面積]/[測定範囲の総面積])×100
【0033】
(最大シワ深さの測定法)
目尻から採取したレプリカに、斜め30°から光を照射し、生じた影の長さを画像解析システムによる2値化法により測定した。0.2、0.4、0.6、0.8、1.0mmの深さの溝を持つシワ標準板を用いて予め作成してある検量線を用いて、シワ深さを求めた。
【0034】
塗布前、及び塗布後のシワ面積率の変化率、及び最大シワ深さの変化率を表4に示す。
【0035】
【表4】
Figure 2004339101
Figure 2004339101
これらの結果の(シワ面積率の変化率)の有効率の平均値は18.4%、標準偏差は34.4%であり、また(最大シワ深さの変化率)の有効率の平均値は9.5%、標準偏差は15.9%で、有意にシワ改善効果が認められることが分かる。
【0036】
次に、実際の皮膚外用剤及び化粧品処方に、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸dl−δ−トコフェリルを添加した例を示す。
【0037】
実施例2:アイジェル
(処方)
Figure 2004339101
(調製方法)
A相、B相、C相の成分をそれぞれ80℃に加熱し、溶解混合する。C相にB相を加え混合した後に、A相を添加する。撹拌しながら冷却し、35℃まで撹拌冷却して調製を終了する。
【0038】
実施例3:アイクリーム1
(処方)
Figure 2004339101
(調製方法)
水相成分、及び油相成分を80℃に加熱し、予め溶解混合しておく。ホモミキサーにて油相に水相を添加して乳化した後に、35℃まで撹拌冷却して調製を終了する。
【0039】
実施例4:アイクリーム2
(処方)
Figure 2004339101
(調製方法)
A相成分、及びB相成分を80℃に加熱し、溶解混合する。A相にB相を添加して乳化した後に、50℃でC相を添加し、35℃まで撹拌冷却して調整を終了する。
【0040】
実施例5:化粧水
(処方)
Figure 2004339101
(調製方法)
A相成分を70℃に加温溶解し、B相成分を室温で均一混合する。A相を撹拌しながらB相を徐々に添加し、可溶化して調製を終了する。
【0041】
(シワ改善効果の評価)
実施例2〜5の化粧料を、実施例1のシワ改善効果の評価と同様の方法で一週間目尻に塗布し、一週間後の皮膚の状態を官能評価により評価を行ったところ、いずれも良好なシワ改善効果が見られた。
【0042】
【発明の効果】
以上、詳細に説明したように、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸d−δ−トコフェリルは、極めて高いシワ改善効果が見られ、ALL−trans−レチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルは皮膚刺激性を抑制し、かつ皮膚老化防止効果、シワ改善効果に有効であることが分かる。またδ−トコフェリル残基はビタミンE誘導体として高い抗酸化作用を有することから、レチノイン酸の皮膚老化防止効果、シワ改善効果との相乗効果により、極めて有効な美肌作用を有することが期待される。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to the use of a retinoic acid derivative in a skin external preparation for the purpose of improving wrinkles.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The action of retinoic acid on the skin is to maintain the normal structure and function of epithelial tissues and mucous membranes, and is also considered to be related to physiological actions such as growth and development of skin tissues. In addition, retinoic acid is used as a therapeutic agent for acne because of its sebaceous gland atrophy effect, and subsequently its wrinkle-reducing effect has been confirmed. According to studies using hairless mice, it was reported that fibroblast function was normalized, collagen synthesis was increased, and glucosaminoglycan was also increased to improve wrinkles (Journal of the Japan Society of Cosmetic Science, 16 (3), 182p).
[0003]
However, although retinoic acid has these useful effects, various side effects such as skin irritation have been reported and cannot be used in Japan.
[0004]
As a method for improving these, α-tocopherol derivatives of retinoic acid, that is, α-tocopheryl retinoic acid, have been reported (JP-B-59-22684, JP-A-53-15429, etc.). However, there is no report as a retinoic acid derivative of δ-tocopherol having high antioxidant activity as a vitamin E derivative.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention was to find a derivative that effectively utilizes the skin aging preventing effect and the wrinkle improving effect of retinoic acid and does not cause skin irritation.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on various retinoic acid derivatives, and as a result, δ-tocopherol derivative of retinoic acid, that is, δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid, suppresses skin irritation, and is effective in preventing skin aging and improving wrinkles. I found something. In addition, since the δ-tocopheryl residue has a high antioxidant action as a vitamin E derivative, it has been confirmed that retinoic acid has a very effective skin beautiful action due to a synergistic effect with a skin aging prevention effect and a wrinkle improvement effect. Thus, the present invention has been completed.
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Δ-Tocopheryl retinoic acid used in the present invention can be synthesized from retinoic acid and δ-tocopherol by a usual esterification reaction.
[0008]
The retinoic acid residue of retinoic acid δ-tocopheryl used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is retinoic acid, and ALL-trans-retinoic acid, 13-cis-retinoic acid, 11-cis-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid or any mixture thereof can be used. Among these, ALL-trans-retinoic acid is particularly preferred.
[0009]
The δ-tocopherol residue of retinoic acid δ-tocopheryl used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is δ-tocopherol, and d-δ-tocopherol, 1-δ-tocopherol, and a mixture thereof are used. Certain dl-δ-tocopherols or any mixture thereof can be used. Among these, d-δ-tocopherol is particularly preferred.
[0010]
The amount of δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid used in the present invention in the external preparation for skin is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.001% by weight or more, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more. The upper limit of the amount is not particularly limited, but is substantially 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less.
[0011]
In the skin external preparation of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, as an ingredient to be added to a skin external preparation such as cosmetics and quasi-drugs as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, a hardened oil derived from animal and vegetable oils, a natural wax , Hydrocarbon-based oil phase components, animal and plant-derived oil phase components, silicone-based oil phase components, fluorine-based oil phase components, higher alcohols, thickeners, UV absorbers, powders, pigments, anionic interfaces Contains surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, polymer compounds, physiologically active ingredients, transdermal absorption enhancers, solvents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, etc. can do.
[0012]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to Examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
[0013]
First, using ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid δ-tocopheryl as retinoic acid δ-tocopheryl, the reduction rate of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH), which is usually used as a model substance for active oxygen, Shows active oxygen scavenging ability.
[0014]
(Test Example 1) Evaluation of active oxygen scavenging action The active oxygen scavenging action was evaluated using ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl, ALL-trans-retinoic acid, and dl-δ-tocopherol at the concentrations shown in Table 1. An evaluation was performed. After allowing these samples to react with DPPH at 37 ° C. for 2 hours, the reduction rate of DPPH was determined by measuring the absorbance at 516 nm. Table 1 shows the results.
[0015]
[Table 1]
Figure 2004339101
As shown in Table 1, ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid shows an effect of reducing DPPH, and the effectiveness of dl-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid in scavenging active oxygen can be seen.
[0016]
Next, similarly, the alleviating effect of d-δ-tocopheryl ALL-trans-retinoic acid on cell damage caused by lipid peroxide is shown. That is, the palliative effect on cell damage caused by tert-butylhydroperoxide (t-BHP), which is generally used as a model substance of lipid peroxide, is shown below.
[0017]
(Test Example 2) Evaluation of alleviating action against cell damage caused by lipid peroxide ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid at a concentration shown in Table 2, and ALL-trans-retinoic acid and dl-δ-tocopherol for comparison. HaCat cells were cultured in a medium containing these samples for 24 hours. Thereafter, the medium was removed, and the cells were treated with 1 mM t-BHP at 37 ° C. for 5 hours. Subsequent cell viability was determined by NR assay, and the palliative effect on cell damage due to lipid peroxide was evaluated.
[0018]
[Table 2]
Figure 2004339101
As seen in Table 2, ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid shows an effect of improving cell viability, and the effectiveness of dl-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid in mitigating the cell injury caused by lipid peroxide is shown. I understand.
[0019]
Next, the effect of inhibiting the production of collagenase by UV-irradiation to cells by ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid will be described based on the messenger level and the production of collagenase.
[0020]
(Test Example 3) Evaluation of collagen-degrading enzyme production inhibitory action from collagen-degrading enzyme messenger level Using ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid and ALL-trans-retinoic acid as a comparison, these samples were used. Was cultured in a medium containing 2.5 μM for 24 hours, and then irradiated with ultraviolet rays (UVA) at 20 J / cm 2 for 6 hours. After the irradiation, total RNA was extracted from the cells, and the expression of MMP-9 mRNA was observed by Reverse Transcriptase-Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR).
[0021]
As a result, all-trans-retinoic acid d-δ-tocopheryl suppressed the expression level of MMP-9 mRNA to about 70%, whereas ALL-trans-retinoic acid showed no inhibitory effect. .
[0022]
(Test Example 4) Evaluation of collagen-degrading enzyme production inhibitory action based on collagen-degrading enzyme production amount. Using ALL-trans-retinoic acid d-δ-tocopheryl, and ALL-trans-retinoic acid as a comparative example, these were used. After culturing HaCat cells in a medium containing 2.5 μM of the sample for 24 hours, ultraviolet rays (UVA) at 20 J / cm 2 were irradiated for 6 hours. After irradiation, zymography of MMP-2 and MMP-9 was performed using the culture supernatant of HaCat cell.
[0023]
As a result, ALL-trans-dl-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid showed an effect of suppressing the expression of MMP-9 to about 75% and also suppressing MMP-2. On the other hand, ALL-trans-retinoic acid showed no inhibitory effect.
[0024]
Next, the promotion of collagen synthesis by ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid is shown by quantification of type I collagen by ELISA.
[0025]
(Test Example 5) Evaluation of collagen synthesis promoting action Using ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid and ALL-trans-retinoic acid as a comparative example, these samples were used in a medium containing the concentrations shown in Table 3. Then, Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast (NHDF) was cultured for 24 hours. The culture supernatant was transferred to an ELIZA plate and coated overnight at 4 ° C. After washing with PBS (-) containing 0.05% Tween20 (PBS-T), it was coated with a 1% bovine serum albumin solution at 37 ° C for 1 hour. After washing with PBS-T, the mixture was reacted with an anti-type I collagen antibody solution at 37 ° C. for 1 hour, and then reacted at 37 ° C. for 1 hour using HISTOFINE (simple stain PO®) as a secondary antibody. 2,2′-Azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS)) was added, and the color development after 30 minutes was measured by the absorbance at 405 nm.The collagen contained in the medium was quantified by the calibration curve created at the same time. did.
[0026]
Table 3 shows the results.
[0027]
[Table 3]
Figure 2004339101
As shown in Table 3, all-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid increased the amount of collagen in the culture supernatant of the used fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner, and at 10 μM, the amount of collagen was 168 compared to the control. %.
On the other hand, ALL-trans-retinoic acid did not show an increasing effect.
[0028]
Next, the wrinkle improving effect of ALL-trans-dl-δ-tocopheryl in a skin external preparation is shown.
[0029]
Example 1: Wrinkle improving cream (formulation)
Figure 2004339101
(Preparation method)
A wrinkle improving cream containing ALL-trans-dl-δ-tocopheryl was prepared according to a standard method of preparing an oil-in-water emulsion composition.
[0030]
Comparative Example 1 (Preparation of wrinkle improving cream comparison cream)
A cream for comparison was prepared by the same preparation method as in the formulation of the wrinkle improving cream of Example 1 except that ALL-trans-dl-δ-tocopheryl was removed.
[0031]
(Evaluation of wrinkle improvement effect)
About eight grams of the cream of Example 1 and the cream of Comparative Example 1 were applied twice daily (morning and evening) to each of the eight eyes shown in Table 4 twice daily (morning and evening). Before application, and 90 days after application, a replica is collected from the applied portion of the outer corner of the eye according to a standard method, the following wrinkle area ratio measurement method, and the maximum wrinkle depth measurement method, and the maximum wrinkle area is determined, The wrinkle area ratio before and after application and the rate of change in the maximum wrinkle depth were determined.
[0032]
(Method of measuring wrinkle area ratio)
The replica collected from the outer corner of the eye was irradiated with light from an oblique angle of 30 °, the area of the generated shadow was measured by a binarization method using an image analysis system, and the relative wrinkle area ratio was determined by the following equation.
[Relative wrinkle area ratio (%)] = ([total area of wrinkle shadow] / [total area of measurement range]) × 100
[0033]
(Method of measuring maximum wrinkle depth)
The replica taken from the outer corner of the eye was irradiated with light at an oblique angle of 30 °, and the length of the generated shadow was measured by a binarization method using an image analysis system. The wrinkle depth was determined using a calibration curve prepared in advance using a wrinkle standard plate having grooves having a depth of 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0 mm.
[0034]
Table 4 shows the change rate of the wrinkle area ratio before and after the application and the change rate of the maximum wrinkle depth.
[0035]
[Table 4]
Figure 2004339101
Figure 2004339101
The average value of the effective rate of (change rate of wrinkle area ratio) of these results is 18.4%, the standard deviation is 34.4%, and the average value of the effective rate of (change rate of maximum wrinkle depth) Is 9.5% and the standard deviation is 15.9%, indicating that a significant wrinkle improvement effect is recognized.
[0036]
Next, an example in which ALL-trans-dl-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid is added to actual skin external preparations and cosmetic formulations will be described.
[0037]
Example 2: Eye gel (formulation)
Figure 2004339101
(Preparation method)
The components of phase A, phase B and phase C are each heated to 80 ° C. and dissolved and mixed. After adding and mixing the phase B and the phase C, the phase A is added. Cool with stirring and stir to 35 ° C. to complete the preparation.
[0038]
Example 3: Eye cream 1
(Prescription)
Figure 2004339101
(Preparation method)
The aqueous phase component and the oil phase component are heated to 80 ° C. and dissolved and mixed in advance. After the aqueous phase is added to the oil phase with a homomixer and emulsified, the mixture is stirred and cooled to 35 ° C. to complete the preparation.
[0039]
Example 4: Eye cream 2
(Prescription)
Figure 2004339101
(Preparation method)
The A-phase component and the B-phase component are heated to 80 ° C. and dissolved and mixed. After adding phase B to phase A and emulsifying, phase C is added at 50 ° C., and the mixture is stirred and cooled to 35 ° C. to complete the adjustment.
[0040]
Example 5: Lotion (Prescription)
Figure 2004339101
(Preparation method)
The phase A component is heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., and the phase B component is uniformly mixed at room temperature. While stirring the phase A, gradually add the phase B, solubilize and finish the preparation.
[0041]
(Evaluation of wrinkle improvement effect)
The cosmetics of Examples 2 to 5 were applied to the outer corner of the first week in the same manner as in the evaluation of the wrinkle improving effect of Example 1, and the state of the skin after one week was evaluated by sensory evaluation. A good wrinkle improving effect was observed.
[0042]
【The invention's effect】
As described above in detail, ALL-trans-d-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid has an extremely high wrinkle-reducing effect, and ALL-trans-δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid suppresses skin irritation, and It turns out that it is effective in the anti-aging effect and the wrinkle improvement effect. Further, since a δ-tocopheryl residue has a high antioxidant effect as a vitamin E derivative, it is expected that retinoic acid has a very effective skin beautiful effect due to a synergistic effect with a skin aging preventing effect and a wrinkle improving effect.

Claims (2)

レチノイン酸δ−トコフェリルを必須成分とするシワ改善剤。A wrinkle improving agent containing δ-tocopheryl retinoic acid as an essential component. 請求項1に記載のシワ改善剤を用いた皮膚老化防止用皮膚外用剤、及び化粧料。A skin external preparation for preventing skin aging using the wrinkle improving agent according to claim 1, and a cosmetic.
JP2003135313A 2003-05-14 2003-05-14 UTILIZATION OF delta-TOCOPHERYL RETINOATE FOR EXTERNAL PREPARATION FOR SKIN Pending JP2004339101A (en)

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