JP2003503338A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least 5% by weight of a humectant. The compositions of the present invention have good moisturizing properties, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness, and low levels of disadvantages such as greasy, sticky or tacky feeling. And / or provide good skin care benefits such as good skin smoothness. Furthermore, such compositions are easily degraded once used and are therefore more environmentally friendly.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention provides good moisturization, hydration,
It relates to a cosmetic composition which provides the benefits of skin feel, skin softness and / or skin smoothness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is composed of several layers of cells that coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the structural scaffold of the skin. The outermost of these layers is called the stratum corneum and is known to be composed of a 25 nm protein bundle surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the membranes of the stratum corneum and degrease (ie, remove lipids from the stratum corneum) destroying the integrity of the stratum corneum. This disruption of the skin surface topography can lead to a rough feel, and eventually surfactants or solvents can interact with keratin to cause inflammation. Many people expose their skin daily to the causes of this type of disorder. In addition, other factors such as exposure to cold air or wind, mechanical wear, flooding with water, etc. can damage the skin. Therefore, there is a need for methods to mitigate or improve this damage.

[0003] Despite assisting the stratum corneum in maintaining optimal barrier and moisture retention functions in the past, despite harmful interactions such as those encountered by the skin during cleaning, labor and recreation. The claimed composition has been formulated. The desirable properties for such a composition are that it has good skin feel, moisture retention, moisturizing, absorption and rubbing properties. Prior art compositions have attempted to provide such properties by using one or more "skin benefit agents." For example, one way to impart high moisturizing properties to the skin is to incorporate humectant substances such as polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin into the composition. However, a skin composition containing a large amount of a polyhydric alcohol to improve the moisturizing property may have a sticky feeling when applied to the skin, and thus may cause discomfort to consumers. Often give.

There appears to be a direct relationship between the amount of skin treatment agent and the effectiveness of the composition in providing skin benefits. However, it is also true that the higher the concentration of skin treatment, the higher the risk of the drawbacks involved. Thus, to date, it has been necessary to balance the benefits of compositions containing high concentrations of skin treatment against the drawbacks associated with such high concentrations. Therefore, it contains a high concentration of skin treatment agents and therefore provides a high level of related benefits such as skin feel, skin flexibility and skin smoothness, but is greasy and greasy. There remains a need for compositions that exhibit low levels of related defects such as feel or tack.

Quaternary ammonium agents are also known for use in cosmetic compositions. For example, International Patent Publication WO Application Nos. 99/27904 and 96/320.
89, and European Patent Application No. 789,076. See also US Patent Application No. 5,804,205, which discloses skin care compositions claiming to provide a high degree of moisturizing properties without leaving a "sticky" or "sticky" residue. . The composition contains a quaternary ammonium compound having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, a humectant and non-irritating hydrophobic microparticles having an average particle size of less than 50 μm. It is claimed that the hydrophobic polymer microparticles significantly reduce the "tackiness" associated with high moisturizer levels. However, the quaternary ammonium agents commonly used in the prior art are often not readily biodegradable and therefore potentially harmful to the environment.

[0006] Now, unexpectedly, a composition comprising at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent and at least 5% by weight of a moisturizer has been found to be relevant for skin feel, skin flexibility and skin smoothness. It has been found that while providing a high level of benefits to the skin, it also exhibits low levels of associated drawbacks such as greasiness, stickiness and tackiness. Moreover, such compositions readily decompose once used and are therefore more environmentally friendly.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents of the present invention are able to vesicle a moisturizer and deposit it on the skin. This results in a smooth and even application of the moisturizer to the skin with minimal stickiness / greasiness / greasiness. Even if the composition contains a very high proportion of humectant, for example 30% by weight, the usual drawbacks are merely low. Also, quaternary ammonium agents are believed to help alleviate loss of humectant due to water or environmental factors such as scuffing. Moreover, quaternary ammonium agents are believed to themselves provide skin care benefits such as good moisturizing properties, good skin feel and skin smoothness.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least 5% by weight of a humectant. . The compositions of the present invention have good moisturizing properties, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin flexibility and softness, as well as low levels of greasy feel, stickiness or tackiness. And / or provides good skin care benefits such as good skin smoothness. Moreover, such compositions readily decompose once used and are therefore more environmentally friendly.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The composition of the present invention comprises at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent and a humectant. These elements will be described in more detail below. The composition of the present invention may be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the composition of the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care composition may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase being a single oily component or a miscible or homogeneous form. However, the various oily phases contain different substances or combinations of substances.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises vesicles. Preferably said vesicles contain a quaternary ammonium compound together with a moisturizer. As used herein, the term "vesicle" means one or more bilayers arranged in close, usually spherical geometry, said bilayers as described below. Contains quaternary ammonium agents. Preferably, the composition of the invention is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight,
More preferably less than 3% by weight and even more preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant is included.

The composition of the present invention is preferably at least about 1,000 mPa.s, preferably about 1,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably about 2,500 to about 250.
Formulated to have a product viscosity in the range of about 5,000 mPa.s, especially about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s (26.8 ° C, stock solution, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).

Quaternary Ammonium Agent The composition of the present invention must include at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent. Any biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used herein. As used herein,
The term "quaternary ammonium agent" means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen substituted with one or more, preferably two, moieties containing 6 or more carbon atoms. To do. As used herein, the term "prone to biodegradation"
Means that at least 60% of the compound is mineralized within 28 days according to the OECD 301 test. Preferably, quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those having a quaternary nitrogen in which each moiety is substituted with two moieties containing 10 or more, preferably 12 or more carbon atoms. It Highly preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents as detected by microscopic analysis (Nikon.
Polarized light microscope at 60x magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope).

Preferably, the composition is at least 0.01 wt%, more preferably at least 0.1 wt%, even more preferably at least 1 wt%, even more preferably at least 3 wt% quaternary ammonium. Including agents. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium agent used herein is selected from:

[0014]   (A) Quaternary ammonium compound based on the general formula (I) or (II):

[Chemical 1]

In the formula, each R ₅ unit is independently hydrogen, branched or linear C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, branched or linear C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxy. Selected from alkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl; each R ₆ unit is independently linear or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, linear or branched C alkenyl ₁₁ -C _22, and in there mixtures thereof; X ^- is an compatible anion skin care active species and the additive component; m is 1 to 4, preferably is 2; n is 1-4, preferably Is 2 and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from:

[0016]

[Chemical 2] Wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the above examples of quaternary ammonium compounds, the unit —QR ₆ typically contains aliphatic acyl units derived from a triglyceride source. The triglyceride source is preferably tallow, partially hydrogenated tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil. , Rice bran oil, and the like, and vegetable oils such as mixtures of such oils and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils.

The counterion, X ⁻ , in the above compounds can be any compatible anion, but is preferably, for example, chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, sulphate, nitrate, etc., more preferably chloride or It is an anion of a strong acid such as methylsulfate. The anion, although less preferred, may have a double charge, where X ⁻ represents half of the group.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds, wherein the diester and diamide have the general formula (II), wherein the carbonyl group is Q is selected from:

[0020]

[Chemical 3] Tallow, canola oil and palm oil are convenient and inexpensive sources of aliphatic acyl units suitable for use in the present invention as R ₆ units.

The counterion, X ^−, is chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate,
It can be sulphate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, simply exists as a counterion for the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion. As used herein, the designation of diesters also includes the monoesters and triesters normally present as a result of the manufacturing process.

[0022]   (B) Quaternary ammonium compounds based on the general formula (III) or (IV):

[Chemical 4] Wherein R ₉ is an acyclic aliphatic C _{15 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon group, and R ₁₀ is C ₁ to
It is a C ₆ alkyl group or alkylene group.

Such ammonium compounds have a pKa value of greater than about 4 provided that the pH of the final composition does not exceed about 6, and when dispersed in an aqueous solution, can generate cationic charge in situ. it can.

[0024]   (C) Quaternary ammonium compounds based on general formula (V) or (VI):

[Chemical 5] In the formula, R ₉ and R ₁₀ have the same meanings as described above, and R ₁₁ is selected from a C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl group and a hydroxyalkyl group.

The counterion X ⁻ is chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate,
It can be sulphate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, simply exists as a counterion for the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion.

[0026]   (D) Quaternary ammonium compounds based on the general formula (VII) or (VIII):

[Chemical 6] In the formula, n is 1 to 6, R ₉ is selected from acyclic aliphatic C _{15 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and R ₁₂ is selected from C _{1 to} C ₄ alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups. To be done.

Such ammonium compounds have a pKa value of greater than about 4 provided that the pH of the final composition does not exceed about 6, and when dispersed in an aqueous solution, can generate cationic charge in situ. it can. Counterion, X ⁻ is chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate,
It can be sulphate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, simply exists as a counterion for the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion.

[0028]   (E) A diquaternary ammonium compound based on the general formula (IX) or (X):

[Chemical 7] In the formula, R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, n and X ⁻ are as defined above with respect to the general formulas (I) and (II), and R ₁₃ is selected from a C _{1 to} C ₆ alkylene group, and preferably Is an ethylene group. (F) A mixture of the above quaternary ammonium compounds.

Preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are as described above under section (b). In particular, a diester based on the above general formula (II) and /
Alternatively, diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds are preferred. Preferred diesters for use herein are those based on general formula (II), wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X ⁻ are as defined above and Q is:

[Chemical 8]

Preferred diamides for use herein are those based on the general formula (II), wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X ⁻ are as defined above and Q is There is something like:

[Chemical 9]

Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N- Di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-
Hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, N.I. N-di (canolyl-
Oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred for use herein are
N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate.

Although quaternary ammonium compounds derived from “canolyl” aliphatic acyl groups are preferred, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds also derive from aliphatic acyl groups, with the terminology in the examples above. "Canolyl" corresponds to the source of triglycerides from which the aliphatic acyl units are derived, the term "tallowyl, cocoyl, permil,
Lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl ". Such other sources of aliphatic acyl can include either fully saturated chains, or preferably at least partially saturated chains.

Humectant The second essential element of the composition of the present invention is that it comprises at least 5% by weight of humectant. As used herein, the term "humectants" refers to
By a substance that provides the skin with the benefit of retaining moisture. Preferably, the composition of the invention is at least 7.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, even more preferably at least 15% by weight, even more preferably at least 30% by weight.
Including moisturizer.

Any humectant suitable for use in the cosmetic composition may be used herein. Non-limiting examples of moisturizers suitable for use in the present invention are WO 98
/ 22085, International Publication WO 98/18444 and International Publication WO
No. 97/01326. Preferred humectants for use herein are: amino acids and their derivatives such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water and imosemyl extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, Disaccharide gum-1, glucamine salt, glucuronate, glutamate, polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin (for example, glyceres 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey and its extract or derivative, Hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycan, methoxy EG10,
Methyl Gluceth-10 and -20 (both available from Amerchol, Edison, NJ), Methyl Glucose, 3-Methyl-1
, 3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salt, polyethylene glycol and its derivatives (for example, PEG15 butanediol, PEG4, PEG5 pentaerythitol, PEG6, PEG8, PEG9), pentaerythitol, 1,
2 pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl pca, sugar isomerates,
SEACARE (available from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetyl hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyaspartate, sodium polyglutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol It is selected from, but not limited to, sugars and sugar alcohols and their derivatives, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethiol propane, tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts and yeast extracts, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the moisturizer for use herein is selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the humectant for use herein is selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin.

Optional Ingredients The compositions of the present invention may include a variety of other optional ingredients suitable for rendering the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or for imparting additional use benefits thereto. Can be included. Such conventional optional ingredients are known to those skilled in the art. These include the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (the CTFA International C
osmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition, Wenner
inger) and McEwen (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.),
Any cosmetically acceptable ingredient, such as that found in Washington DC, 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are listed below.

Emollient A highly preferred optional ingredient for the compositions of the present invention is an emollient. Emollients tend to make the skin smooth, increase the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or reduce dryness of the skin and / or protect the skin. A wide variety of emollients are known and can be used herein. Sagarin's "Cosmetics, Science and Technology", 2nd Edition, Volume 1, 32-4
Page 3 (1972) contains many examples of substances suitable for use as emollients. Preferably the composition of the invention comprises more than 1% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, even more preferably more than at least 10% by weight of emollients.

Emollients for use herein are preferably selected from the following: i) straight chain having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms such as dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and their derivatives. chain and branched chain hydrocarbons, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, C ₇ such as isohexadecane and C ₇ -C ₄₀ isoparaffins ~
C ₄₀ branched hydrocarbons.

Ii) C _{1 to} C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and C _{1 to} C ₃₀ alcohol esters of C _{2 to} C ₃₀ dicarboxylic acids, for example isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate. , Behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate.

Iii) Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C _{1 to} C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and their ethoxylated derivatives. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include:
PEG-20 almond glyceride, PEG-60 almond glyceride, PE
G-11 avocado glyceride, PEG-6 capryl / capric acid glyceride, P
EG-8 capryl / capric acid glyceride, PEG-20 corn glyceride, P
EG-60 corn glyceride, PEG-60 evening primrose glyceride, PEG-
7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl dioleate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30
Glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa butter glyceride, PEG-
20 hydrogenated palm oil glyceride, PEG-70 mango glyceride, PEG-
13 mink glyceride, PEG-75 shorea butter glyceride, P
EG-10 olive glyceride, PEG-12 palm kernal glyceride, EG-45 palm corner glyceride, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate, and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can also be used herein.

Iv) Alkylene glycol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids such as ethylene glycol mono- and diesters with C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids such as propylene glycol mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol distearate.

V) Organopolysiloxane oil. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "nonvolatile" as used in this context is liquid at ambient conditions and has an ignition point of about 10%.
It means a silicone having a temperature of 0 ° C. or higher (at 1 atm). The term "volatile" as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils. The term "volatile" as used in this context is all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones with a wide range of volatility and viscosities. Nonvolatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are described in US Pat. No. 5,069,897 (issued December 3, 1991). Preferred for use herein are polyalkyl siloxanes,
Alkyl-substituted dimethicone, dimethiconol, polyalkylaryl siloxane,
And organopolysiloxanes selected from mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkyl siloxanes and cyclomethicones. Among the polyalkyl siloxanes, dimethicone is preferred.

Vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils are safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower. Included are seed oils, partially and fully hydrogenated oils of the above materials, and mixtures thereof. vii) Animal fats and oils, for example lanolin and its derivatives such as cod liver oil, acetylated lanolin and isopropyllanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

Viii) Also useful as C _{4 to} C ₂₀ alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol, C _{1 to} C ₂₀ carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycol,
And there are alkyl ethers of di -C ₈ -C _30, examples PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof. ix) Polyol carboxylic acid ester. x) A mixture of the above.

Preferred emollients for use in the compositions herein are dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and its derivatives, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and its derivatives, safflower oil, castor oil. , Palm oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. Further preferred emollients for use herein are selected from polyol carboxylic acid esters, petrolatum and mixtures thereof.

Such esters are derived from sugar or polyol moieties and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acids and sugars, these esters can be liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters are: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraester of soybean oil fatty acid (unsaturated), mannose tetraester of mixed soybean oil fatty acid, galactose tetraester of oleic acid, arabinose tetraester of linoleic acid, xylose tetralino. Rate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaester of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acid, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate Ates, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: 1 carboxylic ester moiety.
Palmitooleate and arachidate sorbitol hexaester in a molar ratio of 2; Carboxylic acid ester moiety is a 1: 3 molar ratio of linoleate to behenate raffinose octaester; Esterified carboxylic acid moiety is 3: 4 A mole ratio of sunflower seed oil fatty acid to a lignocerate maltose heptaester; an esterified carboxylic acid moiety of 2; 6 in a mole ratio of oleate and behenate sucrose octaester; and an esterified carboxylic acid moiety of 1: 3: 4
The octaesters of sucrose are the laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of. Preferred solid materials have a degree of esterification of 7-8, fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic acid, and an unsaturated: behenic acid molar ratio of 1: 7 to 3: 5. Is a sucrose polyester. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is an octaester of sucrose with about 7 behen fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other substances include sucrose cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,831,854 issued to Jan. 25, 1977 to Jandacek, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196; 197.
U.S. Patent No. 4,005 issued to Jandasec on January 25, 7
, 195, US Patent No. 5,306,516 issued to Letton et al. Issued April 26, 1994; US issued to Letton et al issued April 26, 1994; US Pat. No. 5,306,515; US Pat. No. 5,305,514 issued to Retton et al. Issued April 26, 1994; 1989.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,797, issued to Jandasec, issued Jan. 10, 2014,
No. 300; U.S. Pat. No. 3,963,699 issued to Rizzi et al. Issued June 15, 1976; granted to Volpenhein et al. Issued May 21, 1985. U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772; and 19
U.S. Pat. No. 4,51, issued to Borpehein et al., Issued May 21, 1985.
No. 7,360.

The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitably used in the present invention can be prepared by various methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterification of polyols with methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters using various catalysts; acylation of polyols with fatty acid chlorides; acylation of polyols with fatty acid anhydrides; and polyols with fatty acids themselves. The acylation of For example, US Pat. No. 2,831,854; US Pat. No. 4,0.
05, 196 (Jandasek, published January 25, 1977). A particularly preferred material is known under the INCI name as sucrose polycotton seed.

Other Skin Treatment Agents Other skin treatment agents may be useful in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of other skin treatment agents that may be used in the present compositions include: (a) Vitamin Compounds The compositions of the present invention may include vitamin compounds, precursors, and derivatives thereof. Such vitamin compounds may be in natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A (eg beta carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoid, retinyl palmitate, retinyl proprionate, etc.), vitamin B (eg nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, riboflavin, pantothene). Acid etc.), vitamin C (eg ascorbic acid etc.), vitamin D (eg ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol etc.), vitamin E (eg tocopherol acetate etc.) and vitamin K (eg phytonadione, etc.). Menadione, futhiocol, etc.) compounds. Preferred vitamin compounds for use in the compositions of the present invention is a vitamin B ₃ compound. Vitamin B ₃ compounds are disclosed in WO 97/3
It is particularly useful for conditioning skin condition as described in 9733. When present, the compositions of the present invention are preferably from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably about 0.5%.
Vitamin B ₃ compounds to about 5 wt%.

As used herein, “vitamin B ₃ compound” means a compound having the following structural formula:

[Chemical 10] In the formula, R is —CONH ₂ (that is, nicotinic acid amide), —COOH (that is, nicotinic acid), or —CH ₂ OH (that is, nicotinyl alcohol); a derivative thereof; and a salt of any of the above. .

Typical derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compound include non-vasodilators of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and nicotinic acid amide N-oxide. And nicotinic acid ester including.

Examples of suitable vitamin B ₃ compounds are known to those skilled in the art, for example Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.); ICN Biomedical (Irvine, Calif.) And Aldrich Chemical Company. (
Commercially available from a number of sources including Aldrich Chemical Company, Milwaukee, WI). The vitamin compound may be included as a substantially pure substance or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical separation from natural (eg, plant) sources.

(B) Anti-wrinkle agent and anti-skin atrophy agent Examples of the anti-wrinkle agent and anti-skin atrophy agent which may be used in the composition of the present invention include:
Lactic acid and its derivatives, retinoic acid and its derivatives (eg cis and trans);
Retinol; retinyl ester; nicotinic acid amide, salicylic acid and its derivatives;
Sulfur-containing D-type and L-type amino acids and derivatives and salts thereof, particularly N-acetyl derivatives thereof, and preferred examples thereof are N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols such as ethanethiol; Lysophosphatidic acid, and dermabrasion agents (such as phenol), but are not limited thereto.

(C) Antimicrobial and Antifungal Agents Examples of antibacterial and antifungal agents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include beta-lactam agents, quinolone agents, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, Tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline , Oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineeomycin, metacycline, methenamine, minosa Clean, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin,
Miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estrate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride. , Metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin, metacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate,
Minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulphate, netilmicin sulphate, paromomycin sulphate, streptomycin sulphate, tobramycin sulphate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfazine hydrochloride, amanfazine sulphate, octopirox, parachlorometaxylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole. However, the present invention is not limited to this.

(D) Sunscreen Active Species The compositions herein may also include sunscreen active species. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are useful herein. Such sunscreens include both organic compounds and their salts and inorganic particulates. Without being limited to theory, it is believed that sunscreens provide protection from UV radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms, including absorption, diffusion and reflection of UV radiation. Non-limiting examples of these sunscreens are found in US Pat. No. 5,087,4.
45 (Haffey et al .; issued February 11, 1992); US Pat. No. 5,
073,372 (Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991); US Pat. No. 5,073,371 (Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991);
US Pat. No. 5,160,731 (Sabatelli et al., 1992 11
US Pat. No. 5,138,089 (Sabateri et al., Issued August 11, 1992); US Pat. No. 5,041,282 (Sabateri et al., Issued August 20, 1991); US Pat. No. 4,999,186 (Sabateri et al., Issued March 12, 1991); US Pat. No. 4,937,370 (Sabateri et al., Issued June 26, 1990); and Segarin et al. Written by "Cosmeti Science and Technology (Cosmeti
cs Science and Technology) ”, chapter VIII, page 189, et seq. Among the sunscreens, preferred are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzene, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2 -Phenyl-
Benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, DEA p
-Methoxycinnamate, 4,4'methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4
4 with isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone
-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N with 4-hydroxydibenzoyl-methane , N-Dimethylaminobenzoate, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane with 4-
N, N-Dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) -aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-
4-N, N-with hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone
Di (2-ethylhexyl) -aminobenzoic acid ester 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) -aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane 4-N, N-di (
2-ethylhexyl) -aminobenzoic acid ester, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) -aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone,
4-N, with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone
With N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane With 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane 4-N,
As selected from the group consisting of N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

Further preferred for use in the compositions described herein are 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene. , Octyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4′-methoxy-
t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (
4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4- (2
A sunscreen selected from the group consisting of 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoate with -hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. is there.

The exact amount of sunscreen that can be used will vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF) to be achieved. SPF is a commonly used photoprotection index for sunscreens against erythema. US Gazette (
Federal Registe), Vol. 43, No. 166, 38206-38269, August 25, 1978).

Thickener The composition of the present invention preferably comprises a thickener. Any thickening agent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. Preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water-soluble polymers, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include cellulose ethers (eg, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), poly (ethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Water-soluble polymers such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, amulose, hydroxyethylamylose, starch, and starch derivatives are mentioned. Suitable fatty alcohols are high molecular weight, non-volatile, primary alcohols of the general formula:

[0058] RCH during ₂ OH formula, R is alkyl of C ₈ ~ _20. These can be made from natural fats or oils by reducing the COOH groups of fatty acids to hydroxyl groups. Alternatively, the same or similar aliphatic alcohols can be produced by well-known conventional synthetic methods. Suitable fatty alcohols, behenyl alcohol, the C ₉ -C _{1 1} alcohol, alcohol C ₁₂ -C _13, alcohol C ₁₂ -C _15, alcohol C ₁₂ -C _{1 6,} the C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ Alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol Examples include, but are not limited to:

Polar Solvent The composition of the present invention may further comprise a polar solvent. Any polar solvent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used in the present invention. However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to effect the formation of vesicles in the present invention. Preferably, the polar solvent used in the composition of the present invention is water. Preferably the composition is 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably 20% by weight.
-80% by weight, and even more preferably 30% -60% by weight of polar solvent.

Other Optional Ingredients The compositions of the present invention can include a wide variety of other optional ingredients. Such additional ingredients are pharmacologically acceptable. Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include: polishing and scrubbing agents, adsorbents, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirants, antioxidants. Agents, antiviral agents, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, biological additives, bleaching agents, bleach activators, brighteners, builders, buffers, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetics, cleansers , Cosmetic astringent, cosmetic biocide, modifier, deodorant, desquamator, depilatory, medicinal astringent, dye,
Dye transfer agent, enzyme, topical analgesic, foaming agent, flavoring agent, film forming agent, fragrance component, insect repellent, powdery mildew killer, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agent, opacifying agent, oxidative dye, oxidizing agent, pest control Ingredients, pH adjusters such as citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutically active agents, plasticizers, preservatives, radical scavengers, skin, hair or nail bleach, skin, hair or nail conditioners, skin, hair or nails Permeation enhancers, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature lowering agents, viscosity modifiers, and heat generating agents such as exothermic zeolites. Also useful herein are aesthetic ingredients such as colorants, essential oils and skin healing agents. Optional other materials herein include pigments. Suitable pigments for use in the compositions of the present invention are organic and / or inorganic. The term pigment further includes matte finishes, and also low-toning or low-gloss substances such as light-scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxide, aciglutamate iron oxide, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D & C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof.

Formulation Method Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are preferably prepared in such a manner that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. It is also preferred that the vesicles contain a moisturizer. Preferably the vesicles also include an emollient. To ensure optimum performance characteristics, the compositions of the invention are preferably prepared as follows:

(I) A humectant, a water-soluble skin care active species (if included), all or part of the quaternary ammonium agent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium agent,
And, preferably, mixing with a polar solvent; (ii) optionally stirring the mixture vigorously;

(Iii) An emulsion is prepared in a separate container as follows; the oil phase containing the emollient and the thickener are oil-soluble at a temperature higher than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium agent. The relevant thickener in some cases and the remaining quaternary ammonium compound are mixed together; the aqueous phase is prepared separately. The water, the relevant said thickener when the thickener is water-soluble and the remaining water-soluble ingredients are heated to the same temperature as the oil.

(Iv) Next, the temperatures of the oil phase and the aqueous phase of the emulsion are made substantially equal, and the aqueous phase is mixed with the oil phase while stirring. (V) In the preparation of the emulsion, the mixture formed in step (i) is added to the above emulsion while stirring.

Method of Use The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in the conventional manner of treating the skin. An effective amount of the composition, typically about 0.1 grams to about 50 grams, preferably about 1.
Grams to about 20 grams are applied to dry or moist, preferably moist skin. Application of the composition generally involves acting the composition on the skin with hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed.

[0066]   The preferred method of treating the skin is therefore:   (A) applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition to the skin,   (B) A step of rinsing the skin is included.

Preferred embodiments of the present invention include the above method of applying the composition on dry skin prior to application on moist skin. Thus, the preferred methods are: (i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition; (ii) rinsing the skin under a shower; (iii) further applying the composition; and (iv) further. Including rinsing.

Much of the damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure to compositions containing surfactants during routine washing. It has been found that the present composition can be used to alleviate this damage. Therefore, another preferred method is: (i) washing the skin with a composition containing a surfactant; (ii) rinsing the skin; (iii) moistening the composition according to the invention. Applying to the skin; (iv) including rinsing the skin.

It has also been found that the compositions are particularly useful when incorporated into part of a regular routine. Therefore, another preferred method is: (i) applying to the skin a composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; (b) a moisturizer; and (ii) rinsing the skin. (Iii) including repeating steps (i) and (ii) within 48 hours.

The present compositions provide for damage caused by exposing the skin to UV light, damage caused by exposing the skin to water during swimming or similar movements associated with water, damage caused by shaving or peeling, or bathing. It can also be useful in alleviating damage caused by exposing the skin to water.

Examples The following examples further illustrate preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are for illustrative purposes only and many modifications of the invention are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and therefore the examples should not be construed as limitations of the invention. Absent. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as weight percent of active ingredient.

[0072]

[Table 1]

[0073]

[Table 2]

[0074]

[Table 3]

[0075]

[Table 4]

1; available from Croda 2; available from Floratech, Arizona, USA 3: available from Hoffman La Roche, New Jersey, USA 4; Amhercor, New Jersey, USA ( Amerchol) 5; available from Rhodia, NJ, USA

Examples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 1
8, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 31, 33, 3
4, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 5
2, 53, 54, 55 and 56, the quaternary ammonium compound used is Goldschmidt under the trade name Rewoquat V3620.
N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2
-Hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate.

In Examples 11, 25 and 29, the quaternary ammonium compound used was N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) supplied by Goldschmidt under the trade name Rewoquat WE18. ) -N-methyl, N- (2-
Hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate.

In Examples 12, 30 and 32, the quaternary ammonium compound used was N, N-di (canolyl-, supplied by Goldschmidt in the developed material (WE25).
Oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride.

In Examples 13, 39, 40 and 42, the quaternary ammonium compound used was methylbis (hydrogenated tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydrogen supplied by Goldschmidt under the trade name Varisoft 110). Hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate.

In Examples 14, 43 and 44, the quaternary ammonium compound used was methylbis (tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt under the trade name Varisoft 222. Is.

For such an example with process component C: Premix 1: Set aside a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound.
The ingredients of the group are mixed together. Stir the premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Mix components of Group B and Group C with the rest of the quaternary ammonium compound and water not previously used in Premix 1. Heat above the melting point of the quaternary component and oil. 3. Premix 1 and 2 are mixed, cooled to 40 ° C. and stirred in perfume.

For such an example with component D: Premix 1: Set aside a reserved portion of water and mix together the Group A components at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound. Stir the premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Water that was not used in Premix 1 and D while stirring
Mix the ingredients of the group. 3. Premix 1 and 2 and Group B and E ingredients are mixed. Stir vigorously.

The compositions of the above examples have low levels of defects such as greasy feel, stickiness or tackiness, good moisturization, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin feel. Provides excellent skin care benefits such as softness and / or good skin smoothness.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    (31) Priority claim number 60 / 201,912 (32) Priority date May 4, 2000 (May 4, 2000) (33) Priority claiming countries United States (US) (81) Designated countries EP (AT, BE, CH, CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, I T, LU, MC, NL, PT, SE), OA (BF, BJ , CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP (GH, GM, K E, LS, MW, MZ, SD, SL, SZ, TZ, UG , ZW), EA (AM, AZ, BY, KG, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM), AE, AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, C N, CR, CU, CZ, DE, DK, DM, EE, ES , FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM, HR, HU, ID, IL, IN, IS, JP, KE, KG, KP, K R, KZ, LC, LK, LR, LS, LT, LU, LV , MA, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO, NZ, PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, S I, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, TZ, UA , UG, US, UZ, VN, YU, ZA, ZW (72) Inventors Evans and Erica Lewis             England, Berkshire, Earl Gee             17,0 Edie, Hungerford, Pro             ー, house, court, plow, cottage (72) Inventor Fanose Thayes, Christina Emma               Inge             United Kingdom, Sally, GU21, 4 E             Kusudi, walking, hosel, ho             Sel, Bursh, Lynton (72) Inventor Sivic, Mark Robert             Pho, Kentucky, United States             Toto, Mitchell, Sheffield, Court               2434 F-term (reference) 4C083 AB032 AB102 AC012 AC072                       AC102 AC121 AC122 AC312                       AC482 AC532 AC542 AC642                       AC681 AC682 AC691 AC692                       AC852 AD041 AD042 AD092                       AD152 AD352 AD512 AD622                       AD662 BB06 CC02 CC23                       DD31 EE06 EE07 EE10 EE12

Claims (10)

[Claims] 1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (A) at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (B) Moisturizing agent of at least 5% by mass A cosmetic composition comprising: 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprises 0.01% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, of a biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises at least 7.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight humectant. 4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the humectant is selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. 5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises vesicles, wherein the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium agent and a humectant. 6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium agent is selected from those capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents as detected by microscopic analysis. 7. The quaternary ammonium agent is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-
Ethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy) -Ethyl) -N-methyl, N-
A composition according to any of the preceding claims selected from (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. 8. A composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises an emollient. 9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant. 10. Use of a composition according to any of the preceding claims for treating skin.