CZ20014710A3 - Cosmetic composition and use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least 5 %, by weight, of humectant. The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such as good moisturisation, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack. In addition, such compositions are readily degraded once used and are consequently kinder to the environment.

Description

Cosmetic product and its use

Technical field

Cosmetic compositions are disclosed. In particular, cosmetic compositions are described which provide the skin with good hydration, softness, skin feel and / or softness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the top of these layers, called the horn-like layer, consists of protein bundles of 25 nm in length, surrounded by layers of 8 nm thickness. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically pass through the horn layer and remove lipids, thereby impairing integrity. This disruption of the skin surface topography leads to a feeling of rough skin surface and may eventually allow the surfactant or solvent to react with keratin, resulting in irritation. Many people expose their skin to this effect every day. In addition, the skin may be damaged by other factors such as cold air or wind, mechanical abrasion, wetting in water, etc. Therefore, there is a need to create a way to prevent the described damage.

Means have been developed in the past to help the stratum corneum to maintain its barrier and water retention function at optimum efficiency despite the unwanted interactions that the skin is exposed to during washing, at work and during recreation. The desirable properties of such formulations are that after use the skin is pleasant to the touch, the formulations have good moisturizing effects, allow water retention, are well absorbed and / or rubbed well. Cosmetics ·· 0 0

The prior art has attempted to introduce these properties by using one or more compositions which are beneficial to the skin. One way to achieve sufficient skin hydration is to incorporate moisturizing materials similar to polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin into the cosmetic composition. Skin compositions with a high amount of polyhydric alcohols that guarantee high skin hydration are often judged to be unpleasant by the consumer since the skin is sticky after application of the composition to the skin.

There appears to be a direct relationship between the amount of agent that is beneficial to the skin and the effectiveness of the composition when applied. However, it may also be the case that a higher amount of the skin-beneficial agent also increases the risk associated with the negative effects. Therefore, to date, it is necessary to balance the beneficial effects of a composition comprising a large number of agents that exhibit beneficial effects on the skin and adverse effects associated with high levels. Accordingly, there remains a need to provide skin-friendly agents that have beneficial effects on the skin as they exhibit good hydration, skin softness, skin feel and / or softness, while exhibiting a small number of negative effects such as tackiness and greasiness.

Quaternary ammonium agents are also used in cosmetic compositions (see WO-A-99/27 904, WO-A-96/32 089 and EP-A-789 076). These cosmetic compositions comprise quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, moisturizing agents and non-irritating hydrophobic microspheres having an average particle size of less It is clear that hydrophobic polymeric mirkospheres substantially reduce the stickiness associated with a high amount of humectant, but quaternary ammonium agents, which are commonly used

is known in the art, they are often not biodegradable and can therefore be a burden on the environment.

Unexpectedly, formulations comprising at least one biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent and at least 5% (w / w) humectant have been found to provide a high degree of associated positive effects such as good hydration, skin softness, skin feel and / or softness, but exhibit low degree of negative effects such as tackiness and skin remains oily. Moreover, such compositions are often degradable and do not endanger the environment.

Further, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents of the invention affect the absorption of the humectant and control their deposition in the skin. This results in a simple and uniform application of a moisturizing agent to the skin with minimal negative properties such as tackiness and excessive skin lubrication. Even when the compositions contain extremely high percentages of wetting agents, for example 30% (w / w), they exhibit only a small amount of negative effects. It is also believed that quaternary ammonium agents help reduce the loss of moisturizers from the skin caused by environmental factors such as water and abrasion. However, it is believed that quaternary ammonium agents themselves exhibit positive effects, such as good hydration, skin softness, and that the skin is pleasant to feel.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent; and (b) at least 5% by weight of a humectant.

The compositions of the invention exhibit positive skin care effects such as sufficient hydration, softness of the skin, the skin is pleasant to the touch and / or is soft and a low degree of negative effects such as increased skin grease or

4 · »· (» 4 <

»4 4 4 4 4 ► · 44 4 4 tack. In addition, after use, the cosmetic compositions are readily degradable and do not disturb the environment.

The pharmaceutical compositions of the present invention comprise at least a quaternary ammonium agent, and one easy-to-disintegrate humectant is described in more detail below. These elements in the text.

The pharmaceutical compositions described can be used in any suitable manner. In particular, compositions which are suitable for topical application to the skin are described. The skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, solutions, gels and the like. The cosmetic compositions are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion wherein the aqueous phase comprises one or more oil phases, each oil phase comprising one oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form, but said different oil phases comprising different materials or combinations materials.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise vesicles. These vesicles preferably contain a quaternary ammonium compound together with a humectant. The term "vesicles" means one or more double layers arranged usually in spatial geometry, wherein the double layer comprises a quaternary ammonium reagent as described below.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably 0% (by weight) of the anionic surfactant.

The compositions of the invention are preferably formulated to have a viscosity of at least about 1000 mPa · s, and preferably in the range of about 1,000 to about 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably in the range of about 2,500 to about 250,000 mPa · s. preferably from about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa · s (at 26.8 ° C, undiluted, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).

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Quaternary ammonium reagent

The compositions of the invention must contain at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent. Any readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. The term "quaternary ammonium reagent" means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably two, moieties containing six or more carbon atoms. The term "readily biodegradable" means that, according to the OECD 301 test, at least 60% of the compounds mineralize within 28 days. The quaternary ammonium reagents are preferably selected from reagents having quaternary ammonium nitrogen substituted by two moieties, each containing ten or more, preferably 12 or more, carbon atoms. Highly preferred quaternary ammonium reagents suitable for use were selected from agents capable of forming vesicles in a polar solvent as detected by microscopic analysis (polarized light microscopy at 60X magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope).

The compositions comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably, at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 3% (w / w) quaternary ammonium reagent.

Quaternary ammonium reagents suitable for use are selected from:

(a) quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula I or II ( ^R 5) 4-ni-N ⁺ - (- (CH ₂ ) _n -Q ₆ ) _m l χ ^J (O ( ^R 5) 4 _m -N 6 CHCl 2, -CH-CH ₂ -QR 4 _m

Q-Re

X '(H)

44

4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4 444 44 4444

4 4

4444 wherein each R 5 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ alkyl, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof, with methyl and hydroxyethyl being preferred. Each R g unit is independently linear or branched Cn-C ₂₂ alkyl, linear or branched Cn-C ₂₂ alkenyl, and mixtures thereof. Symbol X ”is an anion that is compatible with active skin care products and additives. M is 1 to 4, 2 is preferred, n is 1 to 4, 2 is preferred, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from

O

II o

II c — o o

II o-o ₇ o

OR ₇

R ₇ O

HC-OC wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the above-described example of a quaternary ammonium compound, the -QRg unit comprises a fatty acyl unit, which is typically obtained from triglycerides. The triglyceride source is preferably obtained from a slip, a partially hydrogenated slip, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oil and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oil such as canola oil, sunflower oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil , corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil, rice bran oil, etc., and mixtures thereof.

The symbol X in the above-described compounds may be a compatible anion, preferably a strong acid anion, for example chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, sulfate, nitrate, and the like. More preferred are chloride and methyl sulfate. The anion can also carry a double charge, and in this case the symbol X represents half of the group.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the invention are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium compounds (DEQA), diesters and diamides of formula II, wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from:

II

Tallow, canola and palm oil are a convenient and expensive source of the fatty acyl units used in the present invention as Rg units.

The counterion marked with X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with the X symbol positively counterions

4 »

04 4444 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4 4 44 44 44 444

444 444 44 4444 44 4444 charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not limited to any particular anion.

When specifying a diester, it will include a monoester and triester that are normally present as a result of the preparation process.

(b) Quaternary or IV:

ammonium compounds of formula III

M

Rg-

N '

wherein R ₉ is an acyclic aliphatic C 15 -C 21 hydrocarbon group and R 10 is a C 1 -C 6 alkyl or alkylene group.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa greater than about 4 are capable of forming a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, wherein the pH of the final product is not greater than about 6.

(c) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula V or VI

O (V) 9> <9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

wherein Rg and R10 are specified above and Rxi is selected from C1-C4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

The counterion may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with X is present as the counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium salts. The scope of the invention is not limited to any arbitrary anion.

(d) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula VII or VIII

O

O (Vli)

O

O

X '

Where n is from 1 to 6, R g is selected from acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon groups and R _x2 is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

These ammonium compounds having a value of not more than about 4 are capable of forming a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, meaning that the pH of the final product is not more than about 6.

The counterion labeled X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion marked with X is present as the counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not limited to any particular anion.

(e) diquaternary ammonium compounds of formula (IX) or (X)

^R 6 ^R 6 (X) wherein R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, on X is as defined above in relation to formulas I and II and R ₁₃ is selected from a C 1 -C ₆ alkylene group, with ethylene being preferred group.

(f) mixtures of the above described quaternary ammonium compounds.

Preferred quaternary ammonium reagents suitable for use herein are described in (b) above.

Particularly preferred are the diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium compounds (DEQA) of formula II. Suitable diesters are described by formula II wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X "are as defined above and Q is

O _o-J—

Preferred diamides suitable for use according to Formula II, wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X 'are as defined above and Q is

HIM

N-C

Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate, N, N-di (kanolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate is particularly preferred for use herein.

Although it is preferred that quaternary ammonium compounds be obtained from canolyl fatty acyl groups, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds are obtained from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "kanolyl in the above examples is replaced by" talowyl, cocoyl, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl , ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl, which correspond to a triglycerode source from which fatty acyl units were obtained. These alternative fatty acyl sources may comprise an additional fully saturated or preferably at least partially saturated chain.

Moisturizing agent

A second essential element of the compositions of the invention is that they contain at least 5% by weight of a humectant. The term "wetting agent" means a compound that allows the skin to retain water. Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 7.5%, more preferably at least 10%, even more preferably at least 15%, even more preferably at least 30% (by weight) of the wetting agent.

Any humectant suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. Non-limiting examples of suitable wetting agents suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO 98/22 085, WO 98/18 444 and WO 97/01326. Preferably, the humectants are selected from amino acids and derivatives thereof such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water and codium comentosum extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine salts, salts glucuronic acid, glutamic acid salts, polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerin (e.g. glycereth 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey and its extracts or derivatives, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, mucopolysaccharide hydrolysates, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 18, methylgluceth-10 and methylgluceth-20 (both available from Amerchol, located in Edison, NJ), methylglucose, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythitol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythitol, 1,2-pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-2,2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl pca, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available from Secma) , sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium sodium aspartate, sodium sodium glutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof such as glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolpropane yeast extract and mixtures thereof.

A humectant suitable for use is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred is a humectant selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, glycerin.

from the group especially

Feed additives

The compositions may contain a variety of suitable components that make the compositions cosmetically and aesthetically more acceptable or impart to them other benefits of use. Such conventional ingredients are well known in the art. These include cosmetically acceptable agents as found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7 ^th edition, ed. Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC, 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these ingredients are described below.

Emoliens

A very preferred component of the compositions of the invention is emollients. Emoliens tend to lubricate the skin, increase skin softness and softness, prevent skin dryness and protect it. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known which can be used according to the invention. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2 ^nd Edition, Vol. 1, s. 32-42 (1972) describes a number of examples of materials suitable for use as emollients. The compositions of the invention contain more than 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10% (w / w) emollients.

Emollients suitable for use in the present invention are selected from:

i) straight and branched carbon chains containing from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms such as dodecane, squalene, petrolatum, cholesterol and its derivatives, hydrogenated polyvisobutylenes, isohexadecanes and C7-C4 isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

ii) C 1 -C ₃₀ alcohol esters of C ₁ -C ₃ ocarboxylic acids and C ₂ C ₃₀ dicarboxylic acids, for example isononylisonananoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate and diisopropyldilinoleate.

iii) monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of C 1 -C ₃ ocarboxylic acid and its ethoxylated derivatives can also be used. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG6 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-8 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG -60 primrose glycerides, PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryldiolate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate PEG-75 Cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 turkey glycerides, PEG-75 glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm fruit glycerides, PEG-45 glycerides palm fruit, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides.

iv) C 1 -C ₃₀ alkylene glycol esters of carboxylic acid such as ethylene glycol monoester and ethylene glycol diester and propylene glycol monoester and propylene glycol diester of C 1 -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid such as ethylene glycol diesterate.

(v) organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-volatile or a mixture of volatile or non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" is used in the context of the fact that these silicones, which are in liquid form at ambient conditions, exhibit an ignition temperature (at atmospheric pressure) of greater than about 100 ° C. The term "volatile" includes all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones that provide a wide range of volatility and viscosity values. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, filed Dec. 3, 1991. Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethycones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The use of polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones is highly preferred. Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, dimethicones are preferred.

(vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, heryne oil, palm fruit oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, rice oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partially and completely hydrogenated oil from the aforementioned sources, and mixtures thereof.

(vii) Animal fats and oils, such as cod liver fat, lanolin and its derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyllanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

viii) Also useful are propylene glycol C ₄ -C ₂ alkyl ethers, C 1 -C ₂₀ carboxylic acid esters of propylene glycols, and di-C 8 -C ₃ alkyl ethers, including, for example, PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

ix) polyolecarboxylic acid esters

x) and mixtures of the above.

Preferred emollients suitable for use in the compositions are selected from dodecanes, squalene, cholesterols and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononeanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm fruit oil, palm oil , peanut oil, soybean oil, polyolecarboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More preferred emollients are selected from polyol carboxilic acid esters, petrolatum and mixtures thereof.

These esters were obtained from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and sugar component present, these esters may be present in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, oleic fatty acid (unsaturated) glucose tetraesters, soybean mixed mannose tetraesters, oleic acid galactose tetraesters, arabinose arabinose tetraesters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol sorbitol tetraoleate sorbitol sorbitol hexaesters oils, xylitolpentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatooleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include sorbitol hexaester in which portions of the carboxylic acid esters are palmitooleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2. The raffinose octaester, in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3. Heptaester maltose, wherein the esterifying portions of carboxylic acids are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerates in a molar ratio of 3: 4. Sucrose octaester, where the esterifying fatty acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio and octaester of sucrose, where the esterifying moieties of the carboxylic acid are laureate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio • · · φ · • φ · φφφφ

1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8 and wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono-unsaturated and / or dinesatured and behenic in a molar ratio to unsaturated and behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is an octaester of sucrose, which contains about 7 parts of behenic fatty acid and about 1 part of oleic acid per molecule. Other materials include soybean oil fatty acid esters wherein the sugar component is sucrose. The ester materials are further described in U.S. Pat.

No. 831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196 (Jandacek, January 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 4,005,195 (Jandacek, January 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 5,306,516 (Letton et al., April 26, 1994) U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515 to Letton et al., April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300 to Jandacek, U.S. Pat.

10.1. 1989), U.S. Patent No. 3,963,699 (Rizzi et al., June 15, 1976), U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772 (Volpenhein, May 21, 1985), and U.S. Patent No. 4,517,360 (Volpenhein, May 21, 1985) .

Polyesters of fatty acids and polyhydric alcohols are well known in the art. These methods include transesterification of a polyhydric alcohol with methyl fatty, ethyl fatty or glycerol fatty acid using various catalysts, acylation of polyhydric alcohols with fatty acid chloride, and acylation of polyhydric alcohols with fatty acid such as described in U.S. Patent 2,831,854; 4,005,196 (Jandacek, 25.1.

1977).

A particularly preferred material is known as sucrose polycottonseedate by INCI names.

Other agents that have a positive effect on the skin

Other agents which have a positive effect on the skin may be used according to the invention. Examples of other skin-positive agents that can be used according to the invention include:

· · <<<99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 9 9 9 9 9 9

9,999,999,999,999,999 (a) vitamin

The composition may include vitamin compounds, prodrugs, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may exist in either natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A (e.g. beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinylpropionate etc.), vitamin B (e.g. niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid etc.), vitamin C (e.g. ascorbic acid etc.). ), vitamin D (e.g. ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol etc ..), vitamin E (e.g. tocopherol acetate, etc.) and vitamin K (e.g.

phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, compounds suitable for use are vitamin B ₃ compounds. particularly useful in the regulation of WO-A-97/39 733.

preferably comprise approximately more preferably is about 0.1% and is preferably about 0.5% and; Vitamin B ₃ compounds.

The term "vitamin compound of formula, etc.). Preferred Vitamin in Compositions of the Invention The vitamin B ₃ compound is a skin condition as described

Compositions of the Invention 0.01% to about 50%, to about 10%, even more: about 5% (by weight)

B ₃ is a compound of general formula

wherein R is -CONH ₂ (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (i.e. nocotinyl alcohol), derivatives thereof and salts of any of the above-described compounds.

Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compounds described above include nicotinic acid esters including non-vasodilating esters, nicotinylamino acids, nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide-N-oxide.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commonly available from a variety of sources (e.g., Sigma Chemical Company, St. Louis, MO), ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI). The vitamin compounds may be included as substantially pure material or as extracts obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from a natural (e.g., plant source).

(b) Anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy active agents

Examples of anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy active agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, lactic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g., cis and trans forms), retinol, retinyl ester, niaciamide, salicylic acid and its derivatives, sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially N-acetyl derivatives, preferred examples of which are N-acetyl-L-cysteine, thiols such as ethanethiol, hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid, lysophosphatidic acid and agents suitable for peeling the skin (e.g., phenol and the like).

(c) Antimicrobial and antifungal agents

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, beta-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 '-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichloro-2'hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlorotetracycline, methamtamycinine, clindamutinine, clindamutinicin, clytamutinine, clindamutinine, clindamutinine, clytamycinol, oxytetrutinine, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, 44 44 4444 44 4444 paromomycin , streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, erythromycin zinc, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amine-cinsulfate, doxycycline chloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine hydrate, chlorhexidine ochlorid, chlortetracyklinchlorid, oxytetracycline chloride, clindamycinchlorid, ethambutolchlorid, metronidazolchlorid, pentamidinchlorid, gentamycin, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycinhydrochlorid, methacyklinchlorid, methenaminhippurát, methenaminmandelát, minocyklinchlorid, neomycin, netilmicinsulfát, paromomycinsulfát, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin, mikonazolchlorid, amanfadinchlorid, amanfadinsulfát, octopirox, parachlorometa, nystatin , tolnaphthate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole.

(d) sunscreen agents

The compositions may also contain agents that protect the skin from sunlight. A wide variety of substances can be used which exhibit the indicated activity. These sunscreens include organic compounds and their salts as well as inorganic particulate materials. The agents are believed to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms. These mechanisms include absorption, scattering and reflection of ultraviolet radiation. Non-limiting examples of agents that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445 (Haffey et al., Feb. 11, 1992), U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991). U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991), U.S. Patent No. 5,160,731 (Sabatelli et al., Nov. 3, 1992), U.S. Patent No. 5,138,089 (Sabatelli, Aug. 11, 1992) ), U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282 to Sabatelli,

U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al.

U.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, Jan. 26, 1990) and Segarin, et al., Chapter VIII, p. 189, Cosmetics Science and Technology. Preferred agents that they exhibit

• · • 9 ·· 99 • · • · • » «· • · • • · • • • · • 9 9 • 9 * • « • · · · 9 9 99 9 9

sunscreens are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylsalicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, 2-ethylhexyl, N, N-dimethylaminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidyzole-5-sulfonic acid , homomethylsalycilate, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethyne, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenephen, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxybenzoylmethane, 4-N, N ester -dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhe) ester -xyl) aminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydro xydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4- N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

Sunscreening agents selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl-N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinamate, octocrylene, octylsalicylate, homomenthylsalicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA-p-methoxy cinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 4-N, N ester - (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid

• 4 44

4 4

4

4

4444 acids with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

The exact amount of sunscreen agent used varies depending on the selected and desired SPF (Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978) .

preferably it may contain any cosmetic composition.

Thickening agent

The composition according to the invention is a thickener. In this case, a thickening agent suitable for

Preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water-soluble polymers, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Suitable non-ionic polymers include water-soluble polymers such as cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), polyesters (ethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol, starch polyvinylpyrrolidide, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone. Suitable fatty alcohols have a higher molecular weight volatilize, which are primary alcohols characterized by the formula RCH ₂ OH, where R is C _8-2 O-alkyl. These substances can be produced from natural fats or oils by reducing the carboxyl group of fatty acids to a hydroxyl group. Alternatively, the same or similar structured fatty alcohols may be formed by conventional synthesis procedures well known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, behenyl alcohol, Cg-Cnalkoholy, C ₂ -C ₃ alcohols, Cl 2 -C ₅ alcohols, C ₂ -C ₁₆ alcohols, C ₄ -C ₅ alcohols, caprylic alcohol, ketearylové alcohols, coconut alcohols , decyl alcohols, isocetyl alcohols, isostearyl alcohols, latyryl alcohols, oleyl alcohols, palm fruit alcohols, ·· ···· stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, tallow alcohols, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.

Polar solvent

The compositions of the invention may also contain a polar solvent. Any polar solvent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used. The polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to control the formation of the vesicles of the invention. A preferred polar solvent of the invention that can be used in cosmetic compositions is water.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may preferably contain from 10% to 90%, more preferably 20% to 80% water, even more preferably 30% to 60% (by weight) of a polar solvent.

Other possible components

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise a wide range of other suitable ingredients. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. Non-limiting examples are functional classes of ingredients suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the invention include abrasives, absorbents, anti-acne agents, anti-pigmenting agents, anti-dandruffing agents, antiperspirants, antioxidants, antiviral agents, artificial pigmenting agents and tanning accelerators, biological additives, bleaches, bleach activators, brighteners, fillers, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, coloring agents, cleansing agents, cosmetic astringens, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, peeling and releasing agents , depilators, medicinal anstringens, dyes, dye transfer agents, enzymes, external analgesics, foam regenerators, flavors, fragrances, insecticidal repellents, agents

4 anti-fungal, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, opacifying agents, oxidizing dyes, oxidizing agents, anti-pest agents, pH-maintaining agents such as citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutically active agents, emollients, preservatives, radical scavenger , skin lightening agents, hair and nails, or nail, skin, hair conditioning, skin, hair and nail penetration enhancers, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature reducing agents, viscosity adjusting agents and heat generators such as exothermic agents zeolites. Aesthetic components such as pigments, essential oils and skin healing agents are also useful. Other materials include pigments. The pigments suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be organic and / or inorganic substances. The term &quot; pigment &quot; also includes materials to prevent darkening of the skin and its excessive gloss and light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron (III) oxide, acyglutamate ferric oxide, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof.

Preparation method

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably prepared in such a way that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. It is preferred that said vesicles also contain a humectant. It is preferred that said vesicles also contain emollients. In order to ensure optimum performance characteristics, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may be prepared as follows:

(i) admixing all or part of the quaternary ammonium reagent with a humectant, a water-soluble active agent (if included) and preferably a polar solvent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium reagent; (Ii) The mixture is stirred (iii) An emulsion is prepared in a separate vessel as follows. The oily phase containing the emollient, the relevant thickener when said thickener is oil soluble, and any remaining quaternary ammonium reagent are mixed together at a temperature higher than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound. The aqueous phase is prepared separately. Water, if said thickener is water-soluble, and the remaining water-soluble components are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase.

(iv) The oil and water phase temperatures of the emulsion are then approximately the same, and the aqueous phase is then combined with the oil phase with stirring.

(v) To produce the emulsion, the mixture prepared in step (i) is added to the above emulsion and the mixture is vigorously stirred.

Method of use

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be used in a conventional manner in the treatment of skin. An effective amount of the composition is typically about 0.1 grams to about 50 grams, preferably from about 1 grams to about 20 grams, to be applied to moist or dry, preferably wet, skin. Application of the composition typically involves introducing the composition into the skin with palms or fingers. The composition is then allowed to act on the skin or is preferably washed away.

A preferred skin treatment therefore includes:

(a) applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition to the skin; (b) washing the skin.

A preferred object of the invention comprises the above method of applying a cosmetic composition to a cosmetic composition

* 9 »« ·> ·· 99 • · · • • 9 9 9 · 9 9 • » • 9 9 • 9 9 9 • · • 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 · » ·· 999 » »9 9999

dry skin rather than applying the composition to wet skin. Therefore, a preferred method of administration comprises:

(i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin, (ii) washing the skin under the shower, (iii) further applying said composition, and (iv) further washing.

Damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure of the skin to surfactants during washing. It has been found that this damage can be partially reduced by using the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Therefore, another preferred method comprises:

(i) washing the skin using a cosmetic composition of the invention comprising a surfactant, (ii) rinsing the skin, (iii) applying the cosmetic composition of the invention to moist skin, (iv) rinsing the skin.

Furthermore, it has also been found that the cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly useful when used as part of a daily routine treatment. Therefore, a further preferred method comprises:

(i) a cosmetic product is applied to the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary compound, (b) a humectant, and (ii) the skin is rinsed, (iii) steps (i) and (ii) are repeated after 48 hours.

Cosmetic compositions can also be used to alleviate the damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, damage caused by exposure of the skin to water during swimming or exercise in water, damage caused by shaving or exfoliation, or damage caused by water during bathing.

* 0 «· · · · 0 0 · ·

0 0 ·· 0000 · »·

0 0

0000

000 • 0

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe preferred embodiments of the invention. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient.

Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 weight% quaternary ammonium agent 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND urea 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 10 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 5 15 Dec 10 10 (B) kor <5tfVZ <t-. lanolin ¹ 5 (B) super sterolester 5 (B) sef a cottonate 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethi- con 2, 5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 (B) methylpara- ben 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 AND propylpara- ben 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND natriumben- zoát 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND

tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 (B) retinol- palmitate 0.1 0, 0 5 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 0.1 1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 0.5 5 5 5 (B) kys. lemon 1 0, 5 1 0, 5 0, 5 1 0, 5 1 0.3 0.7 5 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.7 AND triethanol- amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0, 5 C hydroxide sodium 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 C polykva- ternium 10 1.0 0.5 0, 6 0, 5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 E cetylalko- hol 3 2, 6 2.2 2.2 2, 5 C stearylalko -hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 C cetearyl- alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl- alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0, 5 0.2 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 0, 8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 D xanthanová rubber 2,0 D

· · ·· · · · · · · · · · · ·

chloride sodium 0.1 0.5 0.2 0, 3 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

Example 14 15 Dec 16 17 18 19 Dec 20 May 21 22nd 23 24 25 26 imotnostní% quaternary ammonium agent 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND urea 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 10 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 5 15 Dec 10 10 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 5 (B) super sterolester 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 21 21 12 12 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethi- con 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 (B) methylpara- ben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 AND propylpara- ben 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND natriumben- zoát 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 (B)

9 9 9 9 9

99 9 9

retinol- palmitate 0, 1 0, 0 5 0.1 5 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 0.1 1 1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 0, 5 5 5 5 (B) kys. lemon 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0, 3 0.7 5 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.7 AND triethanol- amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0.5 C hydroxide sodium 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 C polykva- ternium 10 1.0 0, 5 0, 6 0, 5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 0.7 0.8 (B) fragrance 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalko- hol 3 2, 6 2.2 2.2 2.5 C stearylalko -hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 C cetearyl- alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl- alcohol 2 2 0.6 0.7 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0.5 0.2 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 0, 8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ 1,2 D xanthanová rubber 2,0 D chloride sodium 0.1 0.5 0.2 0.3 AND

* · 31 · • · • · a · a »· · · · • · · · · • · and · · · · 9 9 · · · • · · · ······· • a «a 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 • 9 99 9999 water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND Example 27 Mar: 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 weight% quaternary ammonium reagent 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND propylene glycol 16 5 12 AND butylene glycol 8 8 8 12 AND urea 12 2 9 AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 4 7.5 12 5 6 (B) lanolin ¹ 7.5 7.5 15 Dec 3.5 3 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 7 6.7 6 (B) super sterolester 3.5 6.5 3 6 3 (B) isohexadecan 5 3 3 (B) isononylisono- nanoate 3 5 (B) sefa behanát 9 3 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 13 8 8 12 10 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 2, 5 (B) methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 O, 5 0, 5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0, 1 AND natriumben- zoát 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0, 5 (B) retinol- palmitate 0.1 0.05 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 1 1 1 0.1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 5 5 5 0.5 5 (B) citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0, 5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 AND

• 9 · 9 · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

kys. salicylová 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.7 0, 5 AND triethanol- amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 6 C polykva- ternium 10 1.0 0.5 0, 6 0.5 1, 0 (B) polymer KG 30 ’ 0.7 0.7 0.8 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 E cetylalkohol 3 2.6 2.2 2.2 2.5 3, 2 C stearylalko- hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 2, 6 C cetearyl- alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C behenyl- alcohol 2 2 0.6 0.7 0, 2 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0.5 0.2 0, 6 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0, 3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ^p 1,2 0, 8 D xanthanová rubber 2,0 D sodium chloride 0.1 0, 5 0.2 0.3 0, 2 0, 1 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

Example 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 60 51 52 53 54 55 56 weight % quaternary ammonium reagent 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND propylene glycol 16 5 12 AND butylene glycol 8 8 8 12 AND urea 12 2 9 AND vaseline 10 12 15 Dec 4 7.5 12 5 6 (B) lanolin* 7.5 7.5 15 Dec 3.5 3 (B) kor. lanolin ¹ 7 6.7 6 (B) super sterolester 3, 5 6.5 3 6 3 (B)

· • 4 44 • · 4 · 4

4 4 4 4 4 5

4 4 4 4 4

4444 4 · 4444

isohexadecan 5 3 3 (B) isononylisononanoate 3 5 (B) sefa behanát 9 3 5 (B) sefa cottonate 21 21 12 12 13 8 8 12 10 (B) dimethikon lOCst 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 (B) dimethikon 1 OOOCst 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) florasun PEG-10 ² 2 2 3 1 3 2, 5 (B) methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 (B) dinatrium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 1 0, 1 AND natriumben- zoát 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0, 3 0, 3 0, 3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0, 5 (B) retinol- palmitate 0.1 0, 05 0.1 (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0, 5 1 1 1 0.1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 5 2.5 5 5 5 0, 5 5 (B) citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 AND kys. salicylová 0, 5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.7 0, 5 AND triethanol- amine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0, 6 C polykva- ternium 10 1.0 0.5 0, 6 0.5 1, 0 (B) polymer KG 30 ’ 0.7 0.7 0.8 0, 8 (B) fragrance 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0, 5 0, 5 E cetylalkohol 3 2.6 2.2 2.2 2.5 3, 2 C stearylalko- hol 2 1.5 3.2 1.1 1.6 2, 6 C cetearyl- alcohol 4 0.4 3.4 3.4 C

♦ · · · · · «* * ♦ ♦ · · 9 ·

behenyl- alcohol 2 2 0, 6 0.7 0, 2 C natrosol 330 plus 1 0.4 0.7 0, 6 0, 5 0.2 0, 6 C natrosol 250 HHR 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C Jaguar HP 105 ¹ 1,2 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ^and 1,2 0, 8 D xanthanová rubber 2,0 D sodium chloride 0.1 0, 5 0.2 0.3 0, 2 0, 1 AND water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs AND

available from Croda available from Floratech, AZ, USA available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA available from Amerchol, NJ, USA available from Rhodia, NJ, USA • In examples 1,2,3,4,5 , 6,7,8,9,10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20,

21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54 The 55, 56 quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplemented with Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620.

In Examples 11, 25, 29, the quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplemented with Goldschmidt, trade mark Rewoquat WE18.

In Examples 12, 30, 32, the quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride supplemented with Goldschmidt, developed (WE25).

In Example 13, 39, 40, 42, the quaternary ammonium compound is methylbis (hydrogenated tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate supplemented with Goldschmidt, a trademark of Varisoft 110.

In Example 14, 43, 44, the quaternary ammonium compound is methylbis (tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate supplemented with Goldschmidt, trademark Varisoft 222.

Example 57: Preparation Method for Examples Including Component C

Mixture 1: Combine the Group A components at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, in particular maintaining a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water. This mixture was still stirred.

2. mixture 2: combine the components of group B and C with the remaining parts of the quaternary ammonium compound and water not used in the preparation of mixture 1. The mixture was heated to a temperature above the melting point of the oils.

3. Combine mixtures 1 and 2 and allow the resulting mixture to cool to 40 ° C and then mix the fragrance.

Example 58: Preparation Method for Examples Including Component D

Mixture 1: Combine the Group A components at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, in particular maintaining a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water. This mixture was still stirred.

2. mixture 2: combine with stirring the Group D component with water not used in the preparation of mixture 1.

3. Combine mixtures 1 and 2 and the components of groups B and E. The mixture is constantly stirred.

The compositions described above have positive skin effects such as good hydration, skin softness, skin feel and / or softness, and the compositions exhibit few undesirable effects such as excessive greasiness and tackiness.

Claims (11)

PATENT CLAIMS A cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent and (b) at least 5% (w / w) humectant. 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein said readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent is selected from quaternary compounds of Formula I or II. X (II) wherein each R ₅ is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain C 1 -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl, and each R 6 is independently linear or branched Cn-C22alkyl, linear or branched Cn-C22alkenyl, and mixtures thereof and the symbol X is an anion which is compatible with skin care active ingredients and adjuncts, and m is 1 to 4 and preferably is 2 and n has a value of from 1 to 4, preferably 2 and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from -O-c-oo II -o — c — or ₇ o II - N-C OR ₇ R ₇ O -HC-OC wherein R ₇ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises 0.01%, more preferably at least 0.1%, even more preferably 1% (by weight) of said readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium reagent. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 7.5%, preferably at least 10% (by weight) of said humectant. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the humectant is selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof. • «β β β β β β · · · * * * * * Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium reagent and a humectant. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium reagents are selected from those which are capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents as detected by microscopic analysis. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium reagent is selected from N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate, N, N-di (canolyloxyethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising an emollient. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 5%, preferably less than 3%, more preferably 0% (by weight) of anionic surfactant. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the treatment of skin.