CZ20014702A3 - Cosmetic composition containing quaternary ammonium agent and tocopherol-based agent - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent; and b) at least one tocopherol-based anti-oxidant/radical scavenger. The compositions of the present invention give the benefits associated with tocopherol-based anti-oxidant/radical scavenger such as moisturisation and skin-protection while reducing the associated negatives such as irritation, tackiness and/or stickiness.

Description

A cosmetic composition comprising a quaternary ammonium agent and a tocopherol-based agent

Technical field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a quaternary ammonium agent and a tocopherol-based agent used for skin treatment.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin consists of several layers of cells that coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of this structure. The outer of these layers, referred to as the stratum comeum, is known to consist of 25nm protein bundles surrounded by layers of 8 nm thickness. Typically, anionic surfactants and organic solvents penetrate the membrane of the horny layer and remove fat (delipidization, i.e., remove fat from the stratum corneum), destroying its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topology leads to a feeling of coarseness and may eventually allow the surfactant or solvent to interact with keratin and thereby irritate. Many people expose their skin to this type of effect every day. In addition, the skin may be damaged by other factors such as exposure to the sun, cold air, mechanical abrasion, immersion in water, etc. There is therefore a need for a method of reducing and mitigating this damage.

Previously formulated compositions have been claimed to help preserve the comeum strata in their optimum design despite the harmful interactions the skin encounters during washing, work and recreation. Desirable properties of these compositions are that they leave a good skin feel, water retention, moisturizing, absorbing and / or peeling properties. The prior art compositions have attempted to impart these properties by using one or more agents beneficial to the skin. For example, it is well known that tocopherol (vitamin E) is an antioxidant / free radical scavenger. The use of tocopherol and tocopherol derivatives in skin care products such as shampoos and skin lotions is also known. It has been reported that antioxidant / tocopherol-based radical scavengers such as tocopherol acetate, a tocopherol ester are particularly useful in achieving protection for UF radiation, which may cause increased peeling or structural change in the comeum stratum and against other environmental agents that may cause skin damage.

There appears to be a direct correlation between the amount of skin-beneficial agent and the effectiveness of the composition to impart these beneficial properties to the skin. However, there is also a case where a higher amount of a skin-friendly agent has a higher risk of associated negative properties. To date, therefore, it has been necessary to balance the beneficial properties of formulations containing high amounts of skin-friendly agents with the negative effects associated with these high levels. Thus, there remains a need for compositions that contain high levels of skin-beneficial agents and that provide high levels of related beneficial properties such as skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness, but exhibit low levels of related negative properties such as irritation, grease, adhesion and tackiness.

Quaternary ammonium agents are known to be used in cosmetic compositions. See, for example, WO-A-99/27904, WO-A-96/32089 and European Patent Application No. 789 076. See also U.S. Patent No. 5,804,205, which discloses skin care compositions which are said to be: provide a high degree of wetting without leaving a sticky or tacky residue. These compositions comprise quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, a wetting agent and non-irritating hydrophobic microspheres having an average particle size of less than 50 µm. It is claimed that these hydrophobic polymeric microspheres significantly reduce stickiness associated with high amounts of wetting agent. The compositions of U.S. Patent No. 5,804,205 may also contain low levels of plasticizers, such as petrolatum or mineral oil.

· * * * * * * * * * · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·· ···· ·· ····

It has now been unexpectedly found that compositions comprising at least one quaternary ammonium agent and a tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger provide moisturizing and skin protection. These compositions have improved customer acceptance and thus promote user tolerance with the overall overall improved beneficial effects of skin care.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents of the present invention control the deposition of a tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger on the skin. This ensures that the active ingredients provide a maximum beneficial effect on the skin while minimizing negative effects such as irritation, tackiness and / or adhesion. Quaternary ammonium agents also help reduce the loss of active ingredients from the skin due to environmental factors such as water or abrasion. In addition, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents themselves impart favorable skin care properties such as good moisturizing, good skin feel and good skin softness.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the present invention, a cosmetic composition is obtained comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary ammonium reagent; and

b) at least one tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger.

The composition of the present invention provides beneficial effects associated with a tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger, such as skin wetting and skin protection, while reducing related negative effects such as irritation, adhesion and / or tackiness.

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent and at least one tocopherol antioxidant / radical scavenger. These elements will be described in more detail below.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

The present compositions may be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, skin care compositions may exist in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention exist in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprising a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in miscible or homogeneous form. different combinations of materials.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise pouches. Said pouches preferably comprise a quaternary ammonium reagent and a tocopherol antioxidant / radical scavenger. The term pouch as used herein means one or more bilayers arranged in a closed, usually round, geometry, wherein said bilayer comprises the quaternary ammonium reagent described herein.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3% and even more preferably 0% by weight. anionic surfactant.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated such that the viscosity of the product is at least 1000 mPa · s and preferably ranges from 1000 to 300 000 mPa · s, more preferably from 2500 to 250 000 mPa · s and particularly from 5000 to 200 000 mPa · s. (26.8 ° C, pure, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).

Quaternary ammonium reagent: The compositions of the present invention must contain at least one quaternary ammonium reagent. Any quaternary ammonium reagent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used in the present invention. The term quaternary ammonium reagent as used herein means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or two, preferably two, groups having 6 or more carbon atoms. The quaternary ammonium reagent for use according to the invention is preferably selected from those having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted by two groups, each group containing ten or more, preferably 12 or more, carbon atoms. Highly preferred quaternary ammonium reagents for use in the present invention are selected from those capable of forming pouches in polar solvents as detected by microscopic analysis (microscopy under polarized light at x60 magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E8000 microscope).

The present compositions preferably comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least 1.5% and even more preferably at least 3% by weight. a quaternary ammonium reagent.

The quaternary ammonium reagents for use in the present invention are preferably selected from;

(a) quaternary ammonium compounds of formula (I) _;

R, N ^{+ R} 3 R ₄ (1) wherein R 1 and R ₂ are both C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or hydrogen. R ₃ and R ₄ are both C 8 -C 22 alkyl. X 'is a salt-forming anion compatible with quaternary ammonium compounds and other adjunct additives.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are the quaternized amines of formula I wherein R 1 and R ₂ are both methyl or hydroxymethyl and R ₃ and R ₄ are both linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chains of at least 11 atoms, preferably at least 15 carbon atoms.

• 4 • 4 4 4 • 4 4 4

b) Quaternary ammonium compound of formula II or III (R ₅ ) 4 -n, -N ⁺ -f (CH ₂ ) _n

Q Rg) m

_(R5) 4-m N ^{+ -} (CH _{2) n} -CHCH, '6 J m

X '

Q-Re (ΠΙ) wherein each R ₅ is independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain, C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, branched or straight chain, and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl, each R _{e is} independently C 11 -C 22 linear or branched alkyl, C 11 -C 22 linear or branched alkenyl, and mixtures thereof, X is anion which is compatible with skin care active ingredients and adjuncts additives, m is a number from 1 to 4, preferably number 2, n is a number from 1 to 4, preferably number 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from the following formulas o

II

-o — ci o

-c — o R ₇ or ₇

C-N-, a

Γ

HC-nichž in which R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the above example of the quaternary ammonium compound, the -QR ₆ unit comprises a fatty acid unit, which is typically derived from a triglyceride source. The triglyceride source is preferably derived from tallow, particularly hydrogenated tallow, lard, especially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil, rice bran oil, etc., and mixtures thereof.

The counterion X 'in the above compounds may be any compatible anion, preferably a strong acid anion, for example chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, sulfate, nitrate and the like, more preferably chloride or methyl sulfate. Anion can also, but less favorably, carry two shells, in this case X 'means half of the group.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds, diesters and diamides of formula II, wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from the following formulas:

II

O-c8 · 4 · 44

4 4 4 4

Ο

II

-C-οr ₇ ο

I II

Ν-CTal, canola and palm oil are suitable and not expensive sources of fatty acyl units which are suitable for use in the present invention as R ₆ units.

Against ion X ‘may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, X is present only as counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any specific anion.

As used herein, when a diester is used, it will include the monoester and triester that are normally present as a result of the production process.

(c) Quaternary ammonium compounds of formula IV or V:

(IV)

(V) wherein Rg represents an acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 15 to 21 carbon atoms and Rw represents an alkyl or alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa of not more than 4 are capable of generating a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, provided that the pH of the final composition is not greater than 6.

d) Quaternary ammonium compounds of formula VI or VII

wherein R _g and R _w are as defined above and R 11 is selected from C 1 -C 4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl.

The counterion X ‘may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, anion X is present only as counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any specific anion.

e) A quaternary ammonium compound of formula VIII or IX

o (Vlil)

* * Λ · 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12

I ©

R 8 On (H ₂ C) -N 4 - (CH ₂ ) _n -N

R ₁₂

O

Rg

X '(IX) wherein n is an integer from 1 to 6, R ₉ is selected from acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon groups of 15 to 21 carbon atoms and R ₁₂ is selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups of 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

These ammonium compounds of formula VIIIa having a pKa of not more than 4 are capable of generating a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, provided that the pH of the final composition is not greater than 6.

Counter X may be chloride, bromide, methyl sulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, anion X is present only as counterion of positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of the invention is not considered to be limited to any specific anion.

f) Quaternary ammonium compounds of formula X, XI, XII or XIII

Rs

Rs

Q- _(CH2) NQN-I _(CH2) NQR.

Θ ¹

2X ’

(X) · * * * * * X X X X X

• 9 • 1 »i

OH

I (CH ₂ ),

Re-Q- _(CH2) nN-- (CH ₂₎ n R ₅ and QI® ⁵ l ©

- (CH _z) NQN ^ - _{(CH2) 6} NQR _{(CH2) z}

OH

2X '(XIII), wherein R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, and X' are as defined above for formulas II and III, R ₁₃ is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkylene, preferably ethylene, and means a number from 0 to 4.

g) Mixtures of the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium compounds.

* · 4 99 99 · 1 1 1 • 9 9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9 9 9

9

9

999

Preferred quaternary ammonium reagents for use in the present invention are those described in section b) above. Particularly preferred are diester and / or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds of the above formula (II). Preferred diesters for use herein are those diesters of formula II wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X 'are as defined above and Q is a group of the formula

Preferred diamides for use herein are those of formula II wherein R ₅ , R ₆ and X 'are as defined above and Q is a group of formula

I II

- _N -cVýhodné examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- - (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate, N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred for use in the present invention is N, N-di (canolyl-oxyethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate.

While quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from canolyl fatty acyl groups, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from fatty acyl groups in which the term kanolyl in the above examples is replaced by the terms tallow, coconut, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl, which correspond to the triglyceride source from which the fatty acyl units originate. These alternative fatty acyl sources may contain either fully saturated or preferably at least partially unsaturated chains.

• • • • • • •

Tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger: The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger. Preferred tocopherol-based antioxidants / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol acetate, tocopherolsorbate, other tocopherol esters, and mixtures thereof. Tocopherol acetate is preferred. For example, the use of tocopherol esters including tocopherol acetate in topical formulations and applicable according to the present invention is described in U.S. Patent No. 5,786,384.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. by weight of the tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger composition.

Optional Ingredients: The compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of optional ingredients suitable to make the present compositions cosmetically or aesthetically more acceptable or to impart other favorable properties for use. Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art. These ingredients include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook,

7th edition, Wenninger and McEwen, ed. (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997.). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are given below.

Skin Favoring Agent: It is highly preferred that the compositions of the present invention include a skin benefit agent. The term skin-friendly agent as used herein means any compound or mixture of compounds that, for example, provides the skin with such beneficial properties as moisturizing, protection, skin feel, skin softness and / or skin smoothness. Preferred skin-favoring agents for use in the present invention are humectants, emollients, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise humectants and emollients.

· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise at least 1 wt. skin-friendly agents. More preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise from 2 to 70%, more preferably from 5 to 60%, even more preferably from 10 to 55% by weight. skin-friendly agents.

Humectants: A highly preferred optional component for the compositions of the present invention is a humectant. The term humectant, as used herein, means a substance which provides the skin with a favorable water retention properties. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, even more preferably at least 20% by weight. humectants.

Any humectant suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used according to the invention. Non-limiting examples of suitable humectants for use in the present invention are described in WO 98/22085, WO 98/18444 and WO 97/01326. Preferably, the humectants for use in the present invention are selected from, but not limited to, amino acids and derivatives thereof such as proline and argininaspartate, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol and water and codium tomentosum extract, collagen amino acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine salts, glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, ethers of polyethylene glycol and glycerin (e.g., glycereth 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey and its hydrolyzed starch extracts or derivatives, hydrogenated starch mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, and compounds such as LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glucosaminoglycans, methoxy-PEG10, methyl-gluceth-10 and -20 (both commercially available from Amerchol located in Edison, NJ) .), methylglucose, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol ol and its derivatives (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythitol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythitol, 1,2-pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5 -carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl-pca, carbohydrate isomerate, Seacare (available from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyasparate, sodium polyglutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbeth 6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof such as glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethyolpropane, tri (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts, yeast extract, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the humectants for use in the present invention are selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives or mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the humectants for use according to the invention are selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin.

Plasticizers: Another highly preferred optional component of the compositions of the present invention is a plasticizer. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase smoothness and replenish the skin, prevent or reduce dryness of the skin and / or protect the skin. A variety of suitable plasticizers are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, Second Edition, Volume 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), contains numerous examples of materials suitable for use as plasticizers. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise more than 1%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 10% by weight. plasticizers.

Plasticizers for use according to the invention are preferably selected from:

(i) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons of 7 to 40 carbon atoms such as dodecane, squalene, petrolatum, cholesterol and its derivatives, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and 7 to 40 carbon isoparaffins which are branched hydrocarbons of 7 to 40 carbon atoms ;

(ii) esters of C 1 -C 30 alcohols of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids and C 2 -C 30 dicarboxylic acids, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate and diisopropyl dilinoleate;

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9) mono-, di- and three C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acid glycerides and ethoxylated derivatives thereof; suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glyceride include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-6 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, POEG-6 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-8 carp / capry glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-60 evening primrose glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl- dioleate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 mink glycerides, PEG-75 shea butter glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm core glycerides, PEG-45 palm core glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate; mixtures of polyethylene glycol glyceride derivatives may also be used herein;

iv) alkylene glycol esters of carboxylic acids having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g.

mono- and di-esters of ethylene glycol and mono- and di-esters of propylene glycol carboxylic acids having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, e.g., ethylene glycol distearate;

(v) organopolysiloxane oils; organopolysiloxane oils may be volatile, non-volatile or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile siloxanes; the term non-volatile, as used herein, means those silicones which are liquid at room temperature and have a flash point (at a pressure of 1 bar) greater than 100 ° C. The term volatile as used herein means all other silicone oils; suitable organopolysiloxanes may be selected from a variety of silicones over a wide range of volatiles and viscosities; nonvolatile polysiloxanes are preferred; suitable silicones are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued December 3, 1991; preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof; more convenient for use according to • · * · · · ·

99 ·· ··

9999 of the invention are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones; among the polyalkylsiloxanes, dimethicones are preferred;

(vi) vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils; examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, fish oil (from Brevoortis tyrannus), palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran, pineapple oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, partially hydrogenated and fully hydrogenated oils from the foregoing sources and mixtures thereof;

vii) animal fats and oils, such as cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolin, preferably lanolin;

(viii) C 4 -C 20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C 1 -C 20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols and C 8 -C 30 dialkyl ethers, examples of which include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof;

(ix) polyol and carboxylic acid esters; and

x) mixtures of the above.

Preferred emollients for use in the compositions of the present invention are selected from dodecane, squalene, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononaoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyol and carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More preferred plasticizers for use herein are selected from polyol and carboxylic acid esters, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.

· 9

These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the type of acid component and sugar component, these esters may be either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, soybean oil (unsaturated) fatty acid tetraesters and glucose, mixed soybean fatty acid mannose tetraesters, oleic acid galactose tetraesters, linoleic arabinose tetraesters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate esters, tetraoleate sorbitol tetraoleate sorbitol acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters are: sorbitol hexaester, wherein the carboxylic acid ester groups are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2, octaester of raffinose, wherein the carboxylic acid ester particles representing linoleate and behenate are in a molar ratio of 1: 3, heptaester of maltose, wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid particles are sunflower oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3: 4, the octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying carboxylic acid particles mean are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2: 6; and an octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid particles are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester wherein the degree of esterification is 7-8 and wherein the fatty acid groups are mono- and / or di-unsaturated groups having 18 carbon atoms and behenic acid moieties in a molar ratio of unsaturated to behenic acid from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is octaester of sucrose in which there are seven residues of behenic fatty acid and 1 residue of oleic acid per molecule. Other materials include sucrose and fatty acid esters of cottonseed oil or soybean oil. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196 (Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 4,005,195 (Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977), U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516 (Letton et al., Issued April 26, 1994), U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515 (Letton et al., Issued April 26, 1994), in U.S. Patent No. 5,305,514 (Letton et al. , issued April 26, 1994), U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300 (Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989), U.S. Pat.

9

No. 9,999 (Rizzi et al., Issued June 15, 1976), U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772 (Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985), and U.S. Patent No. 4,517,360 (Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985). .

The polyol and fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesterification of the polyol with a methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid ester using a variety of catalysts, acylation of the polyol with fatty acid chloride, acylation of the polyol with fatty acid anhydride, and acylation of the polyol with fatty acid as such. See, for example, U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854 and U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196 (Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977).

A particularly suitable material is known by the INCI name of sucrose ester and cottonseed oil.

Other Skin-Favoring Agents: Other skin-enhancing agents may be useful in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of other skin-beneficial agents that can be used in the present compositions include the following groups of agents.

a) Vitamin Compounds: In addition to the above agents, the compositions of the present invention may comprise vitamin compounds, precursors thereof, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be either synthetic or natural. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A compounds (e.g., beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, etc.), vitamin B (e.g., niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, etc.), vitamin C (eg ascorbic acid, etc.), vitamin D (eg, ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol, etc.) and vitamin K (eg, phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.).

Preferred vitamin compounds for use in the compositions of the present invention are vitamin B ₃ compounds. Vitamin B ₃ compounds are particularly useful for controlling skin condition as described in WO-A-97/39733. If present, the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.01 to 50%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. Vitamin B ₃ compounds.

As used herein, a vitamin B ₃ compound means a compound of the formula

R

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (i.e. niacinamide), -COOH (i.e. nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (i.e. nicotinyl alcohol), derivatives thereof and salts of any of the foregoing compounds.

Examples of derivatives of the preceding vitamin B ₃ compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters, nicotinylamino acids, nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Examples of suitable vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from numerous sources, eg, from Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.), ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, Ka.) And Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wi.).

The vitamin compounds may be included in the composition as a substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources.

Other preferred vitamin compounds include pantothenic acid and / or a pantothenic acid precursor or derivative. Pantothenic acid, also known in N- (2,4-dihydroxy-3), is also known in the art. 3-dimethylbutyryl) -B-alanine, is a member of the B-group complex of vitamins and is sometimes known as vitamin B ₅ . Pantothenic acid is an essential dietary component for most mammals. This material can exist as the D (+) - form, the L (-) - form and as a racemate. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, item 6877, page 1007 (1983).

Various pantothenic acid precursors or derivatives are known or can be synthesized. Non-limiting examples include alcohol, aldehyde, alcohol esters, acid esters, and the like. Suitable examples are detailed in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,230,228, 4,514,338, 4,602,036, 5,136,093 and 5,750,122. Especially preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention is the alcohol derivative of pantothenic acid. This alcohol, known as panthenol, pantothenol, pantothenyl alcohol and

2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutanamide, is a stable source of pantothenic acid activity. As the parent acid, pantothenol can exist as the D (+) - form, the L (-) - form and as a racemate. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, item 2910, page 426 (1983).

Pantothenic acid precursors or derivatives are effective in reducing the irritation caused by vitamin B ₃ compounds as a result of individual factors (eg, hypersensitivity) and / or environmental conditions. With respect to environmental conditions, the irritation reducing compositions of the present invention are preferably administered at an ambient temperature of from 20 to 55 ° C, preferably from 25 to 50 ° C, most preferably from 30 to 45 ° C, and / or relative humidity from 50 to 100%, preferably from 65 to 100%, most preferably from 80 to 100% by weight.

The pantothenic acid and / or the pantothenic acid precursor or derivative of the compositions useful in the present invention is preferably present in an amount of from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% and most preferably from 0.5 to 3.5% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3.5, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight. panthenol. D-panthenol, also known as dexpanthenol, is particularly preferred for use herein.

(b) Anti-Wrinkle and Skin Atrophy Effective Components: Examples of anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy effective ingredients that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, lactic acid and its derivatives, retinoic acid. and derivatives thereof (e.g. cis and trans), retinol, retinyl esters, niacinamide, salicylic acid and its derivatives, sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and their salts, especially N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine, thiols such as ethanethiol, hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peeling agents (eg, phenol and the like).

c) Antimicrobial and antifungal agents: Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal agents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, erythromycin, erythromycin amikacin, 2,4,4-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutolide, ethambutolide, ethambutolide , pentamidine, gentamycin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmycin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, erythromycin sulphate zinc, erythromatinate, erythromate, erythromate capreomycin, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, hyd chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamycin sulphate, kanamycin sulphate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline hippurate, methenomine sulphate, methomomate sulphate, minomocomate, , tobramycin sulphate, hydro * ·

Miconazole chloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulphate, octopirox, 4-chloro-3-xylenol, nystatin, tolnaphthate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole.

d) Sunscreen Effective Agents: The compositions of the present invention may also contain sunscreen active agents. These sunscreen agents include both organic compounds and their salts and inorganic bulk materials. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that sunscreen-type agents provide protection from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms, including absorption and scattering and ultraviolet radiation reflection. Non-limiting examples of such sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371 to Turner et al

On December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,160,731 to Sabatelli et al., Issued November 3, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,138,089 to Sabatelli et al., Issued August 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282 to Sabatelli et al., Issued August 20, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186; Sabatelli et al., Issued March 12, 1991; and U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli et al. June 1990, and in Segarin et al., Chapter Vlil, page 189 et seq.: Cosmetics Sciences and Technology. Preferred sunscreening agents are those selected from the group consisting of 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid octyl ester, octocrylene, oxybenzone, Ν, Ν-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyl -benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomentyl salicyl ester, DEA 4-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane,

4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, ester

4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxybenzophenone), 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2 -hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- ( 2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzo- ester

4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane ester, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4 -dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

More preferred sunscreen type agents for use in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl salicyl ester , homomentyl ester of salicylic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA of 4-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) of camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

The exact amounts of sun filters that can be used depend on the sun filter selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF) to be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of protection against light by a solar filter against erythema. See Federal Register, Aug. 25, 1978, 43 (166), 38206-38269.

Polar solvent: The compositions of the present invention may also contain a polar solvent. For use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, any polar solvent suitable for use in such compositions may be used. However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to control the formation of the vesicles in the present invention. The preferred polar solvent used in the compositions of the present invention is water.

· 1 * 1 * 4 4 4 4 4

The present compositions preferably comprise from 10 to 90%, more preferably from 20 to 80%, even more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight. of a polar solvent.

Thickeners: The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise thickeners. Any thickeners are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Preferred thickeners are selected from water-soluble nonionic polymers, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include water-soluble polymers such as cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), poly (ethylene oxide) , polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxylpropyl-guar gum, amylose, hydroxyethylamylose, starch and starch derivatives. Suitable fatty alcohols are higher molecular weight alcohols, nonvolatile primary alcohols of formula

RCH ₂ OH wherein R is C 8 -C 20 alkyl. They are made from natural fats or oils by reducing the COOH group of the fatty acid to the hydroxyl function. Fatty alcohols with the same or similar structure can also be prepared by conventional synthetic methods known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, behenyl alcohol, C 9 -C 11 alcohols, C 12 -C 13 alcohols, C 12 -C 15 alcohols, C 12 -C 16 alcohols, C 14 -C 14 alcohols. 15 carbon atoms, caprylalcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.

Other Optional Ingredients: The compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of other optional ingredients. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. Among the non-limiting examples of functional groups of the ingredients suitable for use in ", ", ", ", ", " 9 9 9 9 9 9

The compositions of the present invention include: abrasive materials, absorbents, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirant agents, anti-oxidants, anti-viral ingredients, agents artificial tanning agents and their accelerators, biological additives, bleach, bleach activators, brighteners, builders, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic agents, brighteners, cosmetic skinning agents, cosmetic biocides, denaturing agents, deodorizing agents , desquamating agents, depilatory agents, medicinal astringents, dyes, dye transfer agents, enzymes, external analgesics, foaming generators, flavoring agents, film-forming agents, fragrances, insect repellents, anti-fungal agents, nest eroid anti-inflammatory active ingredients, opacifying agents, oxidizing dyes, oxidizing agents, pest control ingredients, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutically active ingredients, emollients, protective agents, radical scavengers, skin whitening agents, hair or nails, skin, hair or nail conditioners, skin penetration enhancers, hair or nails, stabilizing agents, surfactants, surface modifying agents, reducing agents, temperature reducing agents, viscosity modifying agents and heat generators such as exothermic agents zeolites. Aesthetic components such as coloring agents, essential oils and skin healing agents are also useful herein. Other optional materials of the invention include pigments. The pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic. Also included in the term pigments are those materials that have a weak color or gloss, such as a matte finishing agent, as well as light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylglutamate oxides, gland, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof.

Method of Composing the Compositions: Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are manufactured in such a manner that the quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. It is preferred that these pouches also contain a humectant. Said pouches preferably also contain a plasticizer. Even more preferably said pouches comprise at least one tocopherol antioxidant / radical scavenger. In order to ensure optimal performance of the embodiments, it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention be used to provide optimum performance characteristics. produced as follows;

(i) admixing all or part of the quaternary ammonium agent with a humectant, water-soluble skin care active ingredients (if present) and preferably a polar solvent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium agent; (iii) an emulsion is prepared in a separate container as follows; (iv) an oil phase containing an emollient, an appropriate hardener, if said hardener is oil soluble, a tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger, and any remaining quaternary ammonium reagent; mix together at a temperature greater than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium reagent; separately forming an aqueous phase; water, the respective hardener, if the hardener is water-soluble, and any remaining water-soluble components are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase,

v) the temperature of the oil and water phases of the emulsion is then approximately equalized and the aqueous phase is combined with the oil phase with stirring;

Method of Use: The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be used in a conventional manner for skin treatment. An effective amount of the composition, typically from 0.1 to 50 grams, preferably from 1 to 20 grams, is applied to moist or dry, preferably moist skin. Application of the composition typically involves processing the composition into the skin, usually using hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed.

Thus, a preferred method of treating the skin comprises the steps of: a) applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition to the skin;

4 ·

• 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 ·

4 45 · »·

44 444 4 *

4 ·· 444 «·« · 44 · 4 4 4

44 44

b) rinsing the skin.

A preferred aspect of the present invention comprises the above method of applying the composition to dry skin prior to application to wet skin. Thus, the preferred method consists of:

i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin, ii) rinsing the skin with a shower, iii) further applying said composition, and iv) further rinsing.

Many human skin lesions are caused by repeated exposure of the compositions to the surfactant during normal washing. It has been found that this damage can be alleviated by using the compositions of the present invention. Thus, another preferred method consists of:

i) washing the skin with a surfactant-containing composition, ii) rinsing the skin, iii) applying the composition of the present invention to wet skin, and iv) rinsing the skin.

It has also been found that the compositions of the present invention are particularly useful when included as part of a regular routine. Thus, another preferred method consists of:

(i) applying to the skin a composition comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

(b) a humectant; (ii) rinsing the skin; and (iii) repeating steps (i) and (ii) for 48 hours.

The present compositions may also be useful in alleviating the damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, the damage caused by exposure to water during swimming or similar exercises in progress.

· «44 • 4 4 4 • 4 4 4 · · ♦ · · ♦ 4 ··

4 »·· * · · 4

44 4 4 in water, damage caused by shearing or exfoliation, or damage caused by skin exposure to bathing water.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further illustrate preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention, since many variations of the invention are possible without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient.

· * ·· ► · * 1

I · · «

Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 % by weight: quart. amon. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 AND compound (see below) glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - AND urea - - - - - - - 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - - 10 - 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 5 - 15 Dec - - - 10 10 - (B) lanolin Coronet ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - (B) supersterol esters ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - (B) Seton 21 21 12 12 - - - 21 21 12 12 - - (B) dimethikon - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 (B) (0.01 Pa.s) dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) (1 Pa.s) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) Florasum PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - (B) methyparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND EDTA sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 5 3 3 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 3 1 1 3 3 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0.5 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 (B) retinol palmitate 0.1 - - - - - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 (B) citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 C 1 1 1 AND salicylic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 O - - - AND triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquatemium 10 - - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - (B) scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalkohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C Natrosol 330 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25 C Plus Natrosol 250 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C HHR Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 > 0.8 D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - D xanthan gum - - - - - - 2,0 - - - - - - D sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - AND water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. AND

9 «99

9 9 9

9 9

9 9

9 9 «, 9 99 9 9 - 9 99

9 · · «· 99 • 9 9 ·

99 • 9> 9

9 9 9

9 9

9 9 • 9 9

Example 14 15 Dec 16 17 18 19 Dec 20 May 21 22nd 23 24 25 26 % wt. quart. amon. compound (see below) 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND glycerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - AND urea - - - - - - - 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd 22nd AND vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - - 10 - 12 15 Dec (B) lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 5 - 15 Dec - - - 10 10 - (B) lanolin Coronet ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - (B) supersterolové - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - (B)

esters

kotonát Sefa 21 21 12 12 - - - 21 21 12 12 - - (B) dimethikon - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 (B) (0.01 Pa.s) dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) (1 Pa.s) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) Florasum PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - (B) methyparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND EDTA sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 5 3 3 5 5 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 3 1 1 3 3 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0.5 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 (B) retinol palmitate 0.1 - - - - 0.05 - - - 0.1 - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 (B) citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 1 1 1 AND salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - AND triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquatemium 10 - - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - (B) scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalkohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C Natrosol 330 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25 C Plus 5 Natrosol 250 - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1,2 - - 0.3 C HHR Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ - 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - D xanthan gum - - - - - - 2,0 - - - - - - D sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - AND water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. AND

·· 4 · · 4 4

44 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4 · 4

4444

Example 27 Mar: 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 % by weight: quart. amon. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 8 AND compound (see below) glycerine 15 Dec 16 22nd 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 15 Dec AND propylene glycol - 16 - - - 5 12 AND butylene glycol - - 8 8 - 8 12 AND urea - - 12 - 2 9 - - - - - - - - AND vaseline - - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 - 6 - (B) lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 7.5 - 15 Dec - 3.5 3 - - - - - (B) lanolin Coronet ¹ - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - - 6 - - (B) supersterol esters ¹ - - - - - - - 3.5 6.5 - 3 6 3 - (B) isohexandecan - - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 - (B) isononyl isononoate - - - - - - - - - 3 - 5 - - - - (B) kotonát Sefa 21 21 12 12 - - - 13 - 8 - - 8 12 10 21 (B) behenát Sefa - - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 - - - (B) dimethikon - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 - - - (B) (0.01 Pa.s) dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) (1 Pa.s) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) Florasum PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 2.5 - - (B) methyparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND EDTA sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 3 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 5 3 3 AND panthenol 1 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 3 1 1 AND tocopherol acetate 0.5 2 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 (B) retinol palmitate - - - 0.1 - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - - - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 0.1 1 - - (B) Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.5 5 - - (B)

citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 1 1 1 1 - 1 AND salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - - 0.5 - AND triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 - - o, 1 C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 - C Polyquaternium 10 - - - 1.0 - - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 1.0 - - (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 - (B) scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalkohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - - 3.2 3 C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - - 2.6 2 C cetearyl alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 - - - C behenyl alcohol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - - 0.2 2 C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - 0.4 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.2 5 - 0.6 1 C Natrosol 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - 1,2 - 0.3 - - C Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ - 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - - D Jaguar C14S ⁵ 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D xanthan gum - - - - - - 3.0 - - - - - - - - - D sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 - AND water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. qs. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. AND

* 4 44

4 4 4

4 4 4

4 4

44 * 4 <* * 4 C 4 4> 4J 4 ♦ <

• 4 * 4

4 4 4 44 44 4444

Example 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56% by weight:

quart. amon. 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 AND compound (see below) glycerine 16 22nd 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 AND propylene glycol 16 - - - 5 12 AND butylene glycol - 8 8 - 8 12 AND urea - - 12 - 2 9 - - - - - - - - AND vaseline - 10 - 12 15 Dec - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 6 (B) lanolin ¹ - - 7.5 7.5 - 15 Dec - 3.5 - 3 - - - - (B) lanolin Coronet ¹ - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - - 6 - (B) supersterolové - - - - - - - 3.5 - 6.5 - 3 6 3 (B) esters ¹ isohexandecan - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 (B) isononyl isononoate - - - - - - - - 3 - 5 - - - (B) kotonát Sefa 21 12 12 - - - 13 - 8 - - 8 12 10 (B) behenát Sefa - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 - - (B) dimethikon 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 - - (B) (0.01 Pa.s) dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 (B) (1 Pa.s) cyclomethicone 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (B) Florasum PEG-10 ² 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 2.5 - (B) methyparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 AND propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (B) disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 AND EDTA sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (B) niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 5 3 AND panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 3 1 AND tocopherol acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 2 2 2 2 0.5 (B) retinol palmitate - - - - - - - 0.0 5 - - 0.1 - - - (B) Parsol 1789 ³ 1 1 0.5 1 1 1 0.1 1 (B) Parsol MCX ³ 5 - 5 2.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.5 5 - (B) citric acid 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.7 C 1 1 1 1 - AND salicylic acid 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.7 - - - 0.5 AND triethanolamine - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - 0.9 0.5 - - C sodium hydroxide - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C Polyquaternium 10 - - 1.0 - - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 1.0 - (B) Polymer KG 30 ⁴ 0.7 - - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 (B) scent 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E cetylalkohol - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 2.5 - - 3.2 C stearyl alcohol - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - 2.6 C cetearyl alcohol - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 - - C behenyl alcohol - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - - 0.2 C Natrosol 330 - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.2 - 0.6 C Plus 5Natrosol 250 1 0.3 1,2 0.3 C HHR Jaguar 105 HP ⁵ 1,2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - D Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - 1 D Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - 1,2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - D xanthan gum - - - - - 3.0 - - - - - - - - D sodium chloride - o, 1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 AND water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. AND

• 4 4 4

4 4

4 4 4

4 4

4444 * 4 * · 44 4 4 4 • 4 »4 * 4

4 4 4

4 · 4

4 4

4 4

4444

1: available from Crod

2: available from Floratech, Az., USA

3: available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ., USA

4: available from Amerchol, NJ., USA

5: available from Rhodia, NJ., USA

In Examples 1,4, 7, 9,17, 20, 22, 24, 28, 36, 38, 47, 49, 53 and 56, the quaternary ammonium compound used is distearyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name VarisoftTA1 00 .

- In Examples 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 10, 15, 16, 18, 19,21,23,26,27,31,33,34,35,37,41,

45, 46, 48, 50, 51, 52, 54 and 55 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620.

In Example 11, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18.

In Example 12, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyloxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride supplied by Goldschmidt, development material (WE25).

In Example 13, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N-methylbis (hydrogenated tallow-amidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 110.

In Example 14, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N-methylbis (tallow-amidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 222.

In Example 25, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow-oylethyl-2-tallow-imidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, a developmental material.

In Example 29, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow-amidoethyl-2-tallow-imidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, a developmental material.

In Example 30, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow-oylethyl-2-tallow-imidazolinium methylsulfate supplied by Goldschmidt.

In Example 32, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl-1-tallow-amidoethyl-2-tallow-imidazolinium methyl sulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 475, Varisoft 445.

In Example 39, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-dimethyl-N- (kanolyloxy-ethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) amine supplied by Kao.

In Example 40, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-dimethyl-N- (kanolyloxy-ethyl) -N- (canolamidoethyl) ammonium methylsulfate supplied by Kao.

In Example 42, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N'-bis (2-tallow-oxy-ethyl) -N, N, N ', N'-tetramethylene diammonium dichloride as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4 728,337, 4,721,512 and 4,906,413 from Ciba-Geigy Corporation.

In Example 43, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N'-bis (2-canolyloxy-ethyl) -N, N'-dimethyl-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,6-hexane diammonium methylsulfate as described in European Patent Application 0 503 155 A1 and European Patent No. 0 803 498 to Goldschmidt-Witco.

In Example 44, the quaternary ammonium compound used is a di- and oligo-ester quaternary ammonium compound produced by reacting a fatty acid, a di-functional (or multifunctional) acid and triethanolamine followed by quaternization as described in WO 98/49132 (Kao); U.S. Patent No. 5,880,289 to Henkel.

Way

For those examples that contain component C:

1. Premix 1: Group A components are combined together at a temperature above the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, without adding a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and water; this premix is intensively mixed.

2. Premix 2: Combine Group B and C components with the remaining parts of the quaternary ammonium compound and water not previously used in premix 1. This mixture is heated above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound and oils.

3. Combine masterbatch 1 and masterbatch 2, allow the resulting mixture to cool to 40 ° C and mix with perfume.

For those examples that contain component D:

1. Premix 1: The Group A ingredients are combined together at a temperature higher than the transition temperature selected by the quaternary ammonium compound, without adding a predetermined portion of the water. This premix is intensively mixed.

2. Premix 2: Combine Group D components with water not used in the previous premix 1 with stirring.

3. Combine masterbatch 1 and masterbatch 2 and the components of Groups B and E. The resulting mixture was mixed intensively.

The compositions of the above examples provide good skin care benefits, such as good moisturizing, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and / or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negative properties such as grease, tack or adhesion.

Claims (10)

PATENT CLAIMS A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium reagent; and b) at least one tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger is selected from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate, other tocopherol esters and mixtures thereof. The composition of claim 1 or 2, further comprising pantothenic acid or a pantothenic acid derivative. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a vitamin B ₃ compound. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising a skin-beneficial agent. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a skin-favoring agent selected from a moisturizing agent, a softening agent and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium reagent is selected from reagents of formula II or III (R ₅ ) 4-mN ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) _n -CH-CH ₂ Q-Re X '(lil) J ( ^R 5) 4-m N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) _n -Q (II) wherein each R ₅ unit is independently selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight chain, C 1 -C 6 alkyl up to 6 branched or straight chain carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl, each R ₆ independently represents linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkyl or linear or branched C 11 -C 22 alkenyl and mixtures thereof 'X' is an anion that is compatible with skin care agents and adjuncts, m is from 1 to 4, preferably 2, n is from 1 to 4, preferably 2, and Q is carbonyl unit selected from the group: O II o — c — o II ₇ II I r ₇ HC-O Wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises vesicles, said vesicles comprising a quaternary ammonium reagent and a tocopherol-based antioxidant / radical scavenger. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains less than 5%, preferably less than 3%, preferably 0% by weight. anionic surfactant. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the treatment of skin.