JP2003306830A - Cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn and method for producing the same and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn and method for producing the same and woven or knitted fabric

Info

Publication number
JP2003306830A
JP2003306830A JP2002109959A JP2002109959A JP2003306830A JP 2003306830 A JP2003306830 A JP 2003306830A JP 2002109959 A JP2002109959 A JP 2002109959A JP 2002109959 A JP2002109959 A JP 2002109959A JP 2003306830 A JP2003306830 A JP 2003306830A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
thick
yarn
multifilament yarn
thin
polyester
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP2002109959A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Hideyasu Terao
秀康 寺尾
Yoshinori Kawashima
能則 川島
Hideo Sakakura
秀夫 坂倉
Kazuhiro Shiozaki
一広 塩崎
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd, Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd filed Critical Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Priority to JP2002109959A priority Critical patent/JP2003306830A/en
Publication of JP2003306830A publication Critical patent/JP2003306830A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn affording a splashed pattern-like appearance of a clear contrast between a deep dyed part and a light dyed part. <P>SOLUTION: The cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn comprises single filaments having a plurality of thick and thin unevennesses and ≥70% of the yarn thick parts are composed of thick parts of the single filaments. Furthermore, ≥90% of the yarn thin parts are composed of thin parts of the single filaments. The ratio of thickest parts/thinnest parts of the single filaments is ≥1.3. The polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn develops a color as follows. The L value of the yarn thick parts is 22-32 and the L value of the yarn thin parts is 48-60. The difference in the L value between the yarn thick parts and the yarn thin parts is 18-30. The cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn is obtained by preheating an undrawn cation-dyeable polyester yarn having 10-40×10<SP>-3</SP>Δn and 20-80 interlaced spots/m at the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the polymer ±20°C for 4.0×10<SP>-2</SP>to 4.0×10<SP>-1</SP>s, drawing the resultant preheated yarn at 0.40-0.60 of the maximum draw ratio (MDR) at 80-120°C and heat-treating the drawn yarn at a temperature not lower than the Tg of the polymer and not higher than the crystallization temperature (Tc) thereof in a relaxed state at a relaxation ratio not exceeding 0.1%. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、衣料用途やインテ
リア用途等の織編物にしたときに、カチオン染料での染
色により濃染部が鮮明で、コントラストの明瞭なカスリ
調外観を呈するカチオン染料可染性ポリエステル太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸及びその製造方法並びにその染料可
染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を含んでな
る織編物に関する。
FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cationic dye which, when made into a woven or knitted fabric for clothing or interior use, has a deeply dyed portion with a sharp contrast due to the dyeing with a cationic dye and has a sharp and sharp contrast. TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn, a method for producing the dyed polyester thick multifilament yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the dye-dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】ポリエステル繊維そのものを濃淡染色化
する手段の一つとして、従来から複数の単繊維からなる
未延伸糸を半延伸処理してなる太細マルチフィラメント
糸があり、この太細マルチフィラメント糸による織編物
を染色したときに、濃染性の太部と淡染性の細部に基づ
き、濃淡の染色効果による霜降り調の外観が得られるこ
とが知られている。しかしながら前記の太細マルチフィ
ラメント糸は、淡染性を示す細部に濃染性を呈する太部
が混在しており、これを織編物としたときに細部に通常
の延伸糸と同等の淡色染色性が具備されておらず、十分
なコントラストをなす濃淡の染色効果が表現されない。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as one of the means for dyeing the polyester fiber itself, there is a thick multifilament yarn obtained by semi-drawing an undrawn yarn composed of a plurality of single fibers. It is known that when a woven or knitted fabric is dyed, a marbling appearance can be obtained due to the dark and light dyeing effect, based on the thick and thick dyeing details and the light dyeing details. However, the above-mentioned thick and thin multifilament yarn has a thick portion that exhibits deep dyeing in the details showing light dyeability, and when this is used as a woven or knitted product, the details are light color dyeing properties equivalent to ordinary drawn yarns. Is not provided, and the dyeing effect of light and shade forming a sufficient contrast cannot be expressed.

【0003】十分なコントラストのある濃淡の染色効果
を得るためには、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を
構成する各単繊維の太部及び細部が、それぞれマルチフ
ィラメント糸の濃染部及び淡染部となるように、マルチ
フィラメント糸において単繊維の太部及び細部がそれぞ
れ集中して存在することが必要であり、例えば特開20
01−64823号公報にて交絡部を有するポリエステ
ルマルチフィラメント未延伸糸を特定条件下で加熱延伸
することによる濃淡コントラストのあるポリエステル太
細マルチフィラメント糸が提案されているが、より濃淡
コントラストの明瞭なポリエステル太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸が望まれている。
In order to obtain a deep and light dyeing effect with sufficient contrast, the thick portions and details of each single fiber constituting the polyester multifilament yarn become the deep dyeing portion and the light dyeing portion of the multifilament yarn, respectively. In the multifilament yarn, it is necessary that the thick portions and details of the monofilament be present in a concentrated manner.
No. 01-64823 proposes a polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn having a contrast of dark and light by heating and stretching an undrawn polyester multifilament yarn having an entangled portion under a specific condition, but the contrast of dark and light is clear. A polyester thick multifilament yarn is desired.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、かかる現状
に鑑み、分散染料に比べ格段の鮮明色を与えるカチオン
染料にて染色可能なポリエステルを用い、特定条件下で
加熱延伸、緩和処理することにより従来技術における問
題点を解決するものである。本発明の目的は、カチオン
染料にて染色したときに、濃染部と淡染部との周期がラ
ンダムで、かつ濃染部が鮮明で、濃染部と淡染部とのコ
ントラストの明瞭なカスリ調外観を織編物に与えるカチ
オン染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸
を提供すること、またかかるカチオン染料可染ポリエス
テル太細マルチフィラメント糸を得ること、更にはかか
るカチオン染料可染ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメン
ト糸からなるカチオン染料にて染色された織編物を提供
すること、にある。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the above situation, the present invention uses a polyester dyeable with a cationic dye that gives a markedly sharper color than a disperse dye, and heat-stretches and relaxes it under specific conditions. This solves the problems in the prior art. The object of the present invention is that when dyed with a cationic dye, the cycle between the deep dyeing part and the light dyeing part is random, and the deep dyeing part is clear, and the contrast between the dark dyeing part and the light dyeing part is clear. To provide a polyester dye-thin polyester multi-filament yarn capable of dyeing a cationic dye, which gives a woven or knitted appearance to a woven or knitted fabric, and to obtain such a polyester multi-filament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven / knitted fabric dyed with a cationic dye composed of multifilament yarn.

【0005】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明の第1発明は、カ
チオン染料可染性ポリエステルからなる繊維軸方向に太
細斑を有する複数の単繊維からなり、下記要件(1)〜
(3)を満足することを特徴とするカチオン染料可染性
ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸にある。 (1)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部を構成する単繊
維の70%以上が単繊維 の太部からなり、マルチフィラメント糸の細部を構成す
る単繊維の90%以上が単繊維の細部からなる。 (2)単繊維の最も太い部分と最も細い部分の単繊維径
の比が1.3以上である。 (3)太細マルチフィラメント糸を後述の条件でカチオ
ン染料にて染色したときに次の(イ)〜(ハ)を同時に
満足する発色特性を顕わす。 (イ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部の発色がL値で
22以上32以下である。 (ロ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部の発色がL値で
48以上60以下である。 (ハ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部と細部の発色差
がL値で18以上30以下である。本発明の第2発明
は、複屈折率が10×10−3〜40×10−3で、か
つ交絡部を20〜80ケ/m有する複数の単繊維からな
るカチオン染料可染性ポリエステル未延伸糸を、下記工
程(a)〜(c)で処理することを特徴とするカチオン
染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸の製
造方法にある。 (a)温度が(カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルのTg
−20℃)〜(カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルのTg
+20℃)、かつ接触時間が4.0×10−2〜4.0
×10−1秒の条件で予熱する工程(但し、Tgはガラ
ス転移温度を表す)。 (b)延伸倍率がMDRの0.40〜0.60倍、延伸
温度が80〜120℃の条件で延伸する工程(但し、M
DRは延伸温度85℃における未延伸糸の最大延伸倍率
を表す)。 (c)延伸後、緩和率が0.1%を超えない弛緩状態に
てカチオン染料可染ポリエステルのTg以上Tc以下の
温度で熱処理する工程(但し、Tcは結晶化温度を表
す)。本発明の第3発明は、前記カチオン染料可染性ポ
リエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を含んでなる織編
物にある。
The first invention of the present invention comprises a plurality of monofilaments made of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester and having thick and thin spots in the axial direction of the fiber, and satisfies the following requirements (1) to
A thick polyester multifilament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, which satisfies (3). (1) 70% or more of the monofilaments constituting the thick part of the thick and thin multifilament yarn consist of monofilament thick parts, and 90% or more of the monofilaments constituting the details of multifilament yarn consist of monofilament details . (2) The ratio of the monofilament diameters of the thickest part and the thinnest part of the monofilament is 1.3 or more. (3) When the thick and thin multifilament yarn is dyed with a cationic dye under the conditions described below, it exhibits coloring characteristics satisfying the following (a) to (c) at the same time. (A) The color of the thick part of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 22 or more and 32 or less in L value. (B) The color development of the fine multifilament yarn is 48 or more and 60 or less in L value. (C) The color difference between the thick portion and the small portion of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 18 or more and 30 or less in L value. The second invention of the present invention is a non-stretched cationic dye dyeable polyester comprising a plurality of single fibers having a birefringence of 10 × 10 −3 to 40 × 10 −3 and having 20 to 80 entangled portions / m. A method for producing a polyester multi-filament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, comprising treating the yarn in the following steps (a) to (c). (A) Temperature is (Tg of polyester dyeable with cationic dye)
-20 ° C)-(Tg of polyester dyeable with cationic dye)
+ 20 ° C.) and the contact time is 4.0 × 10 −2 to 4.0.
Step of preheating under the condition of × 10 −1 second (however, Tg represents a glass transition temperature). (B) A step of stretching under the condition that the stretching ratio is 0.40 to 0.60 times MDR and the stretching temperature is 80 to 120 ° C. (however, M
DR represents the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn at a drawing temperature of 85 ° C). (C) A step of heat-treating after stretching at a temperature not lower than Tg and not higher than Tc of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester in a relaxed state where the relaxation rate does not exceed 0.1% (where Tc represents a crystallization temperature). A third invention of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric comprising the polyester dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn as described above.

【0006】[0006]

【発明の実施の形態】本発明のカチオン染料可染性(以
下カチオン可染という)ポリエステル太細マルチフィラ
メント糸は、カチオン可染ポリエステルからなる繊維軸
方向に太細斑を有する複数の単繊維から構成され、太細
マルチフィラメント糸の太部に単繊維の太部が集中し、
太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部に単繊維の細部が集中
して形成している太細マルチフィラメント糸である。
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION A cationic dye-dyeable (hereinafter referred to as cationic dyeable) polyester thick multifilament yarn of the present invention is composed of a plurality of single fibers made of cationic dyeable polyester and having thick and thin spots in the axial direction. The thick part of the single fiber is concentrated in the thick part of the thick and thin multifilament yarn,
It is a thick and thin multifilament yarn in which the details of single fibers are concentrated in the details of the thick and thin multifilament yarn.

【0007】本発明におけるカチオン可染ポリエステル
としては、主たる繰り返し単位がエチレンテレフタレ−
トであり、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、ナトリウム
スルホナフタレンジカルボン酸等の金属塩スルホネート
基等の酸基含有エステル形成性化合物が共重合されたポ
リエステルが挙げられ、製糸後の着色が少ない点で特に
繰り返し単位のエチレンテレフタレ−トに5−ナトリウ
ムスルホイソフタール酸が1.0〜3.5モル%共重合
されたポリエステルが好ましいものとして挙げられる。
In the cationic dyeable polyester of the present invention, the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate.
And sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, sodium sulfonaphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and other metal salts such as a polyester copolymerized with an acid group-containing ester-forming compound such as a sulfonate group. Polyester obtained by copolymerizing ethylene terephthalate with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 1.0 to 3.5 mol% is preferred.

【0008】金属塩スルホネート基等の酸基含有エステ
ル形成性化合物、特に5−ナトリウムスルホイソフター
ル酸の共重合量が1.0モル%未満では、カチオン染料
可染性が不十分となり、コントラストが低下し易く、
3.5モル%を超えると、衣料用繊維として十分な強度
を得難くなる。
When the copolymerization amount of an acid group-containing ester-forming compound such as a metal salt sulfonate group, especially 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is less than 1.0 mol%, the dyeability of the cationic dye becomes insufficient and the contrast becomes poor. Easy to fall,
When it exceeds 3.5 mol%, it becomes difficult to obtain sufficient strength as a fiber for clothing.

【0009】更に、カチオン可染ポリエステルとして、
カチオン染料に対する易染性を向上させる目的で、金属
塩スルホネート基等の酸基含有エステル形成性化合物以
外に他の共重合成分を共重合或いはブレンド成分をブレ
ンドしたポリエステルであってもよい。
Further, as a cationic dyeable polyester,
For the purpose of improving the dyeability with respect to the cationic dye, a polyester obtained by copolymerizing other copolymer components or blending a blend component in addition to the acid group-containing ester forming compound such as a metal salt sulfonate group may be used.

【0010】共重合成分としては、例えばイソフタル
酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、1,4−ブタンジオー
ル、シクロヘキサンジオール、ビスフェノールAのエチ
レンオキシド付加物等が挙げられブレンド成分として
は、例えばポリアルキレングリコール、アルキルスルホ
ン酸、無機物等が挙げられる。
Examples of the copolymerization component include isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4-butanediol, cyclohexanediol, and an ethylene oxide adduct of bisphenol A. Examples of the blending component include polyalkylene glycol and alkyl. Examples thereof include sulfonic acid and inorganic substances.

【0011】本発明において、カチオン可染ポリエステ
ル太細マルチフィラメント糸は、カチオン染料にて染色
したときの濃染部と淡染部とのコントラストが明瞭であ
るためには、太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部を構成す
る単繊維の70%以上が単繊維の太部からなり、太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸の細部を構成する単繊維の90%以
上が単繊維の細部からなることが必要である。太細マル
チフィラメント糸の太部において、単繊維の太部が70
%未満、或いは太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部におい
て、単繊維の細部が90%未満では、カチオン染料にて
染色したときの濃染部と淡染部とのコントラストが小さ
くなり、カスリ調の外観が不鮮明なものになる。
In the present invention, the cationic dyeable polyester thick thin multifilament yarn is a thick thin multifilament yarn in order to have a clear contrast between the deep dyed portion and the light dyed portion when dyed with a cationic dye. It is necessary that 70% or more of the monofilaments constituting the thick part are composed of monofilament thick parts, and 90% or more of the monofilaments constituting the details of the thick thin multifilament yarn consist of monofilament details. In the thick part of the thin multifilament yarn, the thick part of the single fiber is 70
%, Or in the details of the thick and thin multifilament yarn, if the details of the single fiber are less than 90%, the contrast between the deeply dyed part and the lightly dyed part when dyed with a cationic dye will be small, and the appearance will be dull. It becomes unclear.

【0012】本発明の太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部
とは、カチオン染料にて染色したときに、目視で繊維の
長手方向で他の部分に比較して相対的に明らかに濃く見
える部分(濃色部)であり、また太細マルチフィラメン
ト糸の細部とは、同じくい目視で繊維の長手方向で他の
部分に比較して相対的に明らかに淡く見える部分(淡色
部)を示す。
The thick portion of the thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention means a portion which, when dyed with a cationic dye, visually appears to be relatively darker in the longitudinal direction of the fiber than other portions (dark portion). The detail of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is a portion (light color portion) which is relatively clearly seen in the longitudinal direction of the fiber in comparison with other portions by the same visual observation.

【0013】また、本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル
太細マルチフィラメント糸を構成する単繊維は、その最
も太い部分と最も細い部分の繊維径の比が1.3以上で
ある太細斑を有することが必要であり、この繊維径の比
が1.3未満の太細斑の場合には、カチオン染料にて染
色したときに十分な濃淡効果が得られない。
Further, the single fibers constituting the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention have thick and thin spots in which the fiber diameter ratio of the thickest portion and the thinnest portion is 1.3 or more. In the case of thick and fine spots having a fiber diameter ratio of less than 1.3, a sufficient shade effect cannot be obtained when dyed with a cationic dye.

【0014】更に、本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル
太細マルチフィラメント糸は、後述の条件でカチオン染
料にて染色したときに、太細マルチフィラメント糸の太
部の発色がL値で22以上32以下であることが必要で
あり、L値が22未満では、衣料用繊維としての色彩は
濃色となるが、分子配向が不十分であるため、繊維強度
が不十分となり、L値が32を超えると、濃色部と淡色
部の間に十分なコントラストを得ることができない。
Further, in the cationic dyeable polyester thick thin multifilament yarn of the present invention, when dyed with a cationic dye under the conditions described below, the thick color of the thick thin multifilament yarn has an L value of 22 or more and 32 or less. When the L value is less than 22, the color of the fiber for clothing is dark, but the molecular orientation is insufficient, the fiber strength is insufficient, and the L value exceeds 32. Therefore, it is impossible to obtain a sufficient contrast between the dark color portion and the light color portion.

【0015】また、本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル
太細マルチフィラメント糸は、同じ条件で染色したとき
に、太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部の発色がL値で4
8以上60以下であることが必要であり、L値が48未
満では、濃色部との色差が不十分となり、濃色部と淡色
部の間に十分なコントラストを得ることができず、L値
が60を超えると、衣料用繊維としての色彩が不十分と
なる。
Further, in the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention, when the dyeing is performed under the same conditions, the fine color development of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 4 in L value.
It is necessary to be 8 or more and 60 or less, and when the L value is less than 48, the color difference with the dark color portion becomes insufficient, and sufficient contrast cannot be obtained between the dark color portion and the light color portion. When the value exceeds 60, the color as a fiber for clothing becomes insufficient.

【0016】更に、本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル
太細マルチフィラメント糸は、同じ条件で染色したとき
に、太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部と細部の発色差が
L値で18以上30以下であることが必要であり、発色
差がL値で18未満では、濃色部と淡色部の間に十分な
コントラストを得ることができず、L値で30を超える
と、濃色部と淡色部の間のコントラストは十分である
が、かかる発色差を生じる場合は衣料用繊維としての強
度が不足し毛羽等を発生する懸念がある。
Further, in the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention, the difference in color development between the thick portion and the detail of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 18 or more and 30 or less when dyed under the same conditions. If the color difference is less than 18 in the L value, sufficient contrast cannot be obtained between the dark color portion and the light color portion, and if the L value exceeds 30 in the dark color portion and the light color portion. Although the contrast between them is sufficient, if such a color difference occurs, there is a concern that the strength of the fiber for clothing will be insufficient and fuzz or the like will occur.

【0017】本発明におけるカチオン可染ポリエステル
太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部と細部の発色のL値
は、次の条件でカチオン染料にて染色し測定したもので
ある。カチオン可染ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメン
ト糸を、カチオン染料としてアイゼンカチロンマリンブ
ルーGRLH 200%(保土谷化学工業(株)製)1
%owf(対繊維重量)、酢酸0.5g/l、酢酸ソー
ダ0.5g/l、ボウ硝1.0g/l、浴比1:30の
染浴で、温度100℃、時間30分の条件で染色し、染
色糸をハイドロサルフェイト1g/l、ソーダ灰1g/
l、スコアロールFC−300(花王(株)製界面活性
剤)0.5g/l、浴比1:30の洗浄浴で、80℃で
20分間還元洗浄し、水洗、乾燥して発色特性測定用の
染色糸とする。
The L value of the color development of the thick portion and the detail of the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn in the present invention is measured by dyeing with a cationic dye under the following conditions. Cation dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn is used as a cationic dye, Eisencatillon marine blue GRLH 200% (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1
% Owf (vs. fiber weight), acetic acid 0.5 g / l, sodium acetate 0.5 g / l, glauber's salt 1.0 g / l, bath ratio 1:30, temperature 100 ° C., condition for 30 minutes The dyed yarn is dyed with hydrosulfate 1 g / l, soda ash 1 g /
1, Score roll FC-300 (surfactant manufactured by Kao Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / l, a bath ratio of 1:30, reduction washing at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes, washing with water, and drying to measure color development characteristics. Use as dyed yarn.

【0018】また、発色を表すL値は、ハンターの色差
式における明度指数であり、L値が大きいほど淡色であ
り、L値が小さいほど濃色であることを示す。L値の測
定は、色彩色差計CR−241(ミノルタ(株)製)に
て、光源にパルスキセノンランプを用い、標準の光C
(JIS Z8720)、測定孔径0.3mmの条件で
行った。なお、カチオン可染ポリエステル太細マルチフ
ィラメント糸の太部と細部の発色差は、下記式により求
める。 太部と細部の発色差=細部のL値−太部のL値
The L value representing the color development is a lightness index in the Hunter color difference formula. The larger the L value, the lighter the color, and the smaller the L value, the darker the color. The L value was measured with a color-difference meter CR-241 (manufactured by Minolta Co., Ltd.) using a pulse xenon lamp as a light source, and a standard light C
(JIS Z8720) and the measurement hole diameter was 0.3 mm. The color difference between the thick portion and the fine portion of the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn is determined by the following formula. Color difference between thick part and detail = L value of detail-L value of thick part

【0019】太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部分の発色
がL値で22未満では、濃色となるが、太部分での分子
配向が不十分であるため、繊維強度が不十分となり、L
値で32を超えると、細部分のL値との差が小さく、細
部分との色差が不十分となり、太部分による濃色部と細
部分による淡色部との間に明瞭なコントラストが得るこ
とができない。
When the thick portion of the thick multifilament yarn has an L value of less than 22, it becomes a dark color, but the molecular strength in the thick portion is insufficient, so that the fiber strength becomes insufficient and L
When the value exceeds 32, the difference from the L value of the thin portion is small, the color difference with the thin portion becomes insufficient, and clear contrast can be obtained between the dark color portion of the thick portion and the light color portion of the thin portion. I can't.

【0020】また、太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部分
の発色がL値で48未満では、太部分のLとの差が小さ
く、太部分との色差が不十分となり、太部分による濃色
部と細部分による淡色部の間に明瞭なコントラストが得
ることができず、L値で60を超えると、衣料用繊維と
しての色彩が不十分となる。
When the color of the thin portion of the thick and thin multifilament yarn has an L value of less than 48, the difference between the thick portion and L is small and the color difference with the thick portion is insufficient, resulting in a dark portion due to the thick portion. A clear contrast cannot be obtained between the light-colored portions due to the thin portions, and when the L value exceeds 60, the color as a fiber for clothing becomes insufficient.

【0021】本発明において、カチオン可染ポリエステ
ル太細マルチフィラメント糸を構成する単繊維は、その
断面形状は、円形断面或いは三角、多葉、扁平等の異型
断面のいずれであってもよく、特に限定されるものでは
ない。
In the present invention, the monofilaments constituting the cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn may have a cross-sectional shape of either a circular cross section or an atypical cross section such as triangular, multilobal or flat. It is not limited.

【0022】本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸は、織編物としカチオン染料にて染
色したときに、太細マルチフィラメント糸の濃染部と淡
染部とのコントラストが明瞭であり、従来の分散染料可
染性のポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を用いた
ものに比べ、濃染部と淡染部とのコントラストを格段に
明瞭にするものである。
The cationic dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn of the present invention has a clear contrast between the deep dyed portion and the light dyed portion of the thick and thin multifilament yarn when dyed with a cationic dye as a woven or knitted fabric. The contrast between the deep dyed part and the light dyed part is made much clearer as compared with the conventional one using polyester thick multifilament yarn dyeable with a disperse dye.

【0023】本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸は、次のような方法で製造できる。
即ち、複屈折率が10×10−3〜40×10−3で、
かつ交絡部を20〜80ケ/m有する複数の単繊維から
なるカチオン可染ポリエステル未延伸糸を、下記工程
(a)〜(c)で処理することによりカチオン可染ポリ
エステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を製造することがで
きる。 (a)温度が(カチオン可染ポリエステルのTg−20
℃)〜(カチオン可染ポリエステルのTg+20℃)、
かつ接触時間が4.0×10−2〜4.0×10 −1
の条件で予熱する工程。 (b)延伸倍率がMDRの0.40〜0.60倍、延伸
温度が80〜120℃の条件で延伸する工程。 (c)延伸後、緩和率が0.1%を超えない弛緩状態に
てカチオン染料可染ポリエステルのTg以上Tc以下の
温度で熱処理する工程。
The cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin fabric of the present invention
The ruti filament yarn can be manufactured by the following method.
That is, the birefringence is 10 × 10-3~ 40 × 10-3so,
And from a plurality of single fibers having 20 to 80 entangled parts / m
The cation dyeable polyester undrawn yarn
A cationic dyeable polyis obtained by treating with (a) to (c).
It is possible to manufacture ester thick multifilament yarn
Wear. (A) The temperature is (Cg dyeable polyester Tg-20
° C) ~ (Tg of cationic dyeable polyester + 20 ° C),
And the contact time is 4.0 × 10-2~ 4.0 x 10 -1Second
The process of preheating under the conditions. (B) Stretching ratio is 0.40 to 0.60 times MDR, stretching
A step of stretching at a temperature of 80 to 120 ° C. (C) In a relaxed state where the relaxation rate does not exceed 0.1% after stretching
And above Tg of polyester dyeable with cationic dye
Process of heat treatment at temperature.

【0024】カチオン可染ポリエステル未延伸糸を構成
する単繊維の複屈折率が10×10 −3未満では、単繊
維の未延伸部である太部から形成されるカチオン可染太
細マルチフィラメント糸の太部の強度が低く、衣料用繊
維として使用する場合に毛羽などが発生するため、実用
的ではなく、また単繊維の複屈折率が40×10−3
超えると、カチオン可染ポリエステル未延伸糸のMDR
が小さくなるため延伸した単繊維に太細斑を形成させる
際の延伸倍率が低くなり、得られる太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸の太部と細部の繊度差が小さく、カチオン染料で
染色したときの濃淡差が小さくなり、目的とするコント
ラストの明瞭な外観を得ることができない。
Constituting a cationic dyeable polyester undrawn yarn
The birefringence of a single fiber is 10 × 10 -3Less than a single filament
Cationic dyeable thickness formed from thick part which is unstretched part of fiber
The thin multifilament yarn has a low strength in the thick part,
When used as a fiber, it causes fluff, so it is practical
And the birefringence of single fiber is 40 × 10-3To
If exceeded, MDR of cationic dyeable polyester undrawn yarn
Makes the stretched monofilaments thick and thin due to the small size
The draw ratio at that time becomes low, and the resulting thick and thin multi-filament
The difference in fineness between the thick and fine parts of the
The difference in shade when dyed becomes smaller, and the desired control
It is not possible to get a clear appearance of the last.

【0025】本発明の方法におけるカチオン可染ポリエ
ステル未延伸糸は、交絡部を20〜80ケ/m有するこ
とが必要であり、交絡部が20ケ/m未満では、得られ
る太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部と細部との繊度差が
小さく、濃染性を示す太部も長くなり明瞭なコントラス
トの外観が得られず、交絡部が80ケ/mを超えると、
濃染部と淡染部の発生頻度が高くなるものの、全体とし
ての濃淡コントラストが低下しカスリ調ではなく霜降り
調となり目的とする外観を得ることができない。
The cationic dyeable polyester undrawn yarn in the method of the present invention needs to have 20 to 80 entangled portions / m, and if the entangled portion is less than 20 entangles / m, the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarn is obtained. The difference in fineness between the thick part and the fine part is small, the thick part showing the deep dyeing property is long, the appearance of clear contrast cannot be obtained, and when the entangled part exceeds 80 / m,
Although the frequency of occurrence of the dark-dyeing portion and the light-dyeing portion is high, the overall light-and-deep contrast is lowered, and the desired appearance cannot be obtained with a marbling tone rather than a dull tone.

【0026】カチオン可染ポリエステル未延伸糸への交
絡部の付与は、紡糸工程で付与してもよいし、延伸工程
の直前で付与してもよい。また、交絡部の付与方法も、
特に限定されるものではなく、気体による流体処理、液
体による流体処理等による交絡処理方法が挙げられる
が、何れの方法を用いてもよい。
The entangled portion may be added to the unstretched yarn of the cationic dyeable polyester in the spinning step or immediately before the stretching step. Also, the method of adding the confounding part,
The method is not particularly limited, and a confounding method such as a fluid treatment with a gas or a fluid treatment with a liquid may be used, but any method may be used.

【0027】更に、本発明の方法では、単繊維に太細斑
を生じさせると共に単繊維太部が集中した部分と単繊維
細部が集中した部分を形成させるために、交絡部を有す
るカチオン可染ポリエステル未延伸糸を、(a)温度が
(カチオン可染ポリエステルのTg−20℃)〜(カチ
オン可染ポリエステルのTg+20℃)、かつ接触時間
が4.0×10−2〜4.0×10−1秒の条件で予熱
する工程、(b)延伸倍率がMDRの0.40〜0.6
0倍、延伸温度が80〜120℃の条件で延伸する工
程、(c)延伸後、緩和率が0.1%を超えない弛緩状
態にてカチオン染料可染ポリエステルのTg以上Tc以
下の温度で熱処理する工程で順次で処理することが必要
である。
Further, in the method of the present invention, in order to generate thick and thin spots on the single fiber and to form a portion where the thick portion of the single fiber is concentrated and a portion where the details of the single fiber are concentrated, a cationic dyeable material having an entangled portion is formed. The undrawn polyester yarn has a (a) temperature (Tg of cationic dyeable polyester: 20 ° C.) to (Tg of cationic dyeable polyester: 20 ° C.) and a contact time of 4.0 × 10 −2 to 4.0 × 10. -1 second preheating step, (b) stretch ratio is MDR 0.40 to 0.6
A step of stretching at 0 times and a stretching temperature of 80 to 120 ° C., (c) after stretching, in a relaxed state where the relaxation rate does not exceed 0.1%, at a temperature of Tg or more and Tc or less of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester. It is necessary to sequentially process the heat treatment steps.

【0028】(a)の予熱する工程での温度がカチオン
可染ポリエステルのTg−20℃未満では、十分な予熱
が行われないため、延伸による太細斑の発現が弱くな
り、カチオン可染ポリエステルのTg+20℃を超える
と、摩擦抵抗が大きくなり延伸不安定となる。また、接
触時間が4.0×10−2秒未満では、十分な予熱がさ
れないため延伸時に太細斑が発現し難くなり、カチオン
染料で染色したときの明瞭なコントラストが得られず、
接触時間が4.0×10−1秒を超えると、カチオン染
料で染色したときに濃染部となる太部の比率が高くな
る。
When the temperature in the step (a) of preheating is less than Tg-20 ° C. of the cationic dyeable polyester, sufficient preheating is not performed, so that the development of thick and thin spots due to stretching is weakened, and the cationic dyeable polyester. When Tg + 20 ° C. is exceeded, the frictional resistance increases and the stretching becomes unstable. In addition, when the contact time is less than 4.0 × 10 −2 seconds, sufficient preheating is not performed, so that thick and thin spots are less likely to appear during stretching, and clear contrast when dyed with a cationic dye cannot be obtained.
When the contact time exceeds 4.0 × 10 −1 second, the ratio of the thick portion that becomes the deeply dyed portion when dyed with the cationic dye becomes high.

【0029】(b)の延伸する工程での延伸手段として
は、加熱された摩擦抵抗ピン又は加熱ローラーのいずれ
でを用いてもよい。延伸での延伸倍率がMDRの0.4
5倍未満の場合には、カチオン染料で染色したときに濃
染部となる太部の比率が高くなり、延伸倍率がMDRの
0.60倍を超えると、太部の比率が小さくなり、目的
とするコントラストの明瞭な外観が得られ難くなる。ま
た、延伸温度が80℃未満であると、太部の比率が高く
なり、延伸温度が120℃を超えると、、太部の比率が
小さくなり、目的とするコントラストの明瞭な外観を得
ることができなくなる。
As the stretching means in the stretching step (b), either a heated friction resistance pin or a heating roller may be used. Stretching ratio in stretching is 0.4 of MDR
When the ratio is less than 5 times, the ratio of the thick part which becomes a deeply dyed part when dyed with a cationic dye becomes high, and when the stretching ratio exceeds 0.60 times the MDR, the ratio of the thick part becomes small. It becomes difficult to obtain an appearance with clear contrast. Further, if the stretching temperature is lower than 80 ° C, the ratio of the thick part becomes high, and if the stretching temperature exceeds 120 ° C, the ratio of the thick part becomes low, and the desired appearance with clear contrast can be obtained. become unable.

【0030】更に(c)の工程では緩和率が0.1%超
えない弛緩状態にてカチオン染料可染ポリエステルのT
g以上結晶化温度以下の温度で熱処理する。緩和率が0
%以下の緊張状態であると、得られたカチオン可染ポリ
エステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を織編物としてカチ
オン染料で染色すると濃色部と淡色部の間のコントラス
トが小さくなり、緩和率が0.1%を超えると、(c)
の工程での糸走行時の張力が低下し加工性が悪化する。
また、温度がTg未満では、十分な緩和の効果が得られ
ず、染色したときに濃色部と淡色部の間に十分なコント
ラストが得られず、Tcを超えると、糸切れが発生し、
製糸性不良となる。
Further, in the step (c), the T of the polyester dyeable with a cationic dye is used in a relaxation state where the relaxation rate does not exceed 0.1%.
Heat treatment is performed at a temperature of g or more and a crystallization temperature or less. Relaxation rate is 0
When the tension is less than 10%, when the obtained cationic dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn is dyed with a cationic dye as a woven or knitted product, the contrast between the dark color part and the light color part becomes small, and the relaxation rate is 0.1. If it exceeds%, (c)
In this process, the tension during running of the yarn is reduced and the workability is deteriorated.
When the temperature is lower than Tg, sufficient relaxation effect cannot be obtained, and when dyed, sufficient contrast cannot be obtained between the dark color portion and the light color portion. When the temperature exceeds Tc, yarn breakage occurs,
Poor yarn formability.

【0031】なお、本発明の方法でいうガラス転移温度
Tg、結晶化温度Tcは、ポリエステル重合体を290
℃まで昇温してメルトクエンチした後、DSC法(示差
走査熱量測定法、昇温速度10℃/分)より求めたガラ
ス転移温度、結晶化温度を採用した。
The glass transition temperature Tg and crystallization temperature Tc in the method of the present invention are 290 for the polyester polymer.
After the temperature was raised to 0 ° C to perform melt quenching, the glass transition temperature and the crystallization temperature determined by the DSC method (differential scanning calorimetry, temperature rising rate 10 ° C / min) were used.

【0032】本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸は、織編物素材として好ましく用い
られ、このカチオン可染ポリエステル太細マルチフィラ
メント糸単独で、或いは他のフィラメント糸と組み合わ
せて織編物となし、しかる後に常法によりカチオン染料
にて任意の濃度、色相に染色することができる。他のフ
ィラメント糸との組み合わせに際しては、合撚、流体に
よる混繊交絡処理等が任意に用いられる。またカチオン
染料にての染色には、公知のカチオン染料が用いられ、
他のマルチフィラメント糸を染める目的で、他のマルチ
フィラメントが染色可能な染料を同浴又は別浴で用いて
染色することもできる。染色方法は、従来公知の染色方
法が任意に用いられる。
The cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably used as a material for woven and knitted materials. The cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn is used alone or in combination with other filament yarns to form a woven or knitted fabric. After that, it can be dyed with a cationic dye in an arbitrary concentration and hue by a conventional method. When the filament yarn is combined with other filament yarn, a ply twist, a mixed fiber entanglement treatment with a fluid, or the like is optionally used. In addition, a known cationic dye is used for dyeing with a cationic dye,
For the purpose of dyeing other multifilament yarns, dyes that can be dyed by other multifilaments can be used in the same bath or a separate bath. As the dyeing method, any conventionally known dyeing method may be used.

【0033】本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル太細マ
ルチフィラメント糸を含んで構成され、カチオン染料に
て染色された織編物は、カチオン可染ポリエステル太細
マルチフィラメント糸の淡染領域上に濃染部が短く明瞭
に存在する濃染部と淡染部とのコントラストが明瞭な外
観を呈するものである。
A woven or knitted fabric containing the cationic dyeable polyester thick thin multifilament yarn, which is dyed with a cationic dye, has a deep dyed portion on the light dyeing area of the cationic dyeable polyester thick thin multifilament yarn. Is a short and clear appearance, and the contrast between the deeply dyed part and the lightly dyed part has a clear appearance.

【0034】[0034]

【実施例】以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明す
る。なお、実施例中、各特性値の測定、判定は、以下の
方法に拠った。
EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. In the examples, measurement and determination of each characteristic value was based on the following method.

【0035】(複屈折率)ポリエステル未延伸糸をカネ
ボウエンジニアリング(株)製分子配向度測定装置DE
LTA−Nを用いて測定し、10点の平均値を複屈折率
とした。
(Birefringent) Polyester unstretched yarn is manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. Molecular orientation measuring device DE
It measured using LTA-N and made the average value of 10 points the birefringence.

【0036】(交絡部数)ポリエステル未延伸糸を水浴
上に浮かべてマルチフィラメントを開繊させ、サンプル
長1mでの交絡部の数を目視で計測し、5回測定の平均
値を交絡部数とした。
(Number of entangled parts) The polyester undrawn yarn was floated on a water bath to open the multifilaments, and the number of entangled parts at a sample length of 1 m was visually measured, and the average value of 5 measurements was taken as the number of entangled parts. .

【0037】(太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部(細
部)での単繊維の太部(細部)比率)WJLで本発明の
太細マルチフィラメント糸を緯糸に用い、経糸に55d
tex/18fのポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を
用い、経糸密度59本/cm、緯糸密度(本/cm)=
279/√(太細マルチフィラメント糸の繊度(dte
x))にて、平織物を作成し、以下の条件にてカチオン
染料で染色を行った。
(Thickness (Detail) Ratio of Single Fiber in Thickness (Detail) of Thick Multifilament Yarn) The thick multifilament yarn of the present invention is used as the weft in WJL, and 55d is used as the warp.
Using tex / 18f polyester multifilament yarn, warp density 59 threads / cm, weft density (threads / cm) =
279 / √ (Fineness (dte
x)), a plain woven fabric was prepared and dyed with a cationic dye under the following conditions.

【0038】アイゼン カチロン マリンブルー GR
LH 200%(保土谷化学工業(株)製カチオン染
料)を用い、染料1%owf、酢酸0.5g/l、酢酸
ソーダ0.5g/l、ボウ硝1.0g/l、浴比1:3
0、染色温度120℃、染色時間30分の条件で染色し
た。染色後、太細マルチフィラメント糸を抜糸して太細
マルチフィラメント糸の太部である濃染部及び太細マル
チフィラメント糸の細部である淡染部の断面について、
カネボウエンジニアリング(株)製分子配向度測定装置
DELTA−Nを用いて各単繊維の繊維径を測定し、
太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部(細部)での構成単繊
維中の何本の単繊維に太部(細部)があるか数え、太細
マルチフィラメント糸の太部での単繊維の太部の比率
(%)、太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部における単繊
維の細部の比率(%)をそれぞれ求めた。なお、単繊維
の最も細い部分(細部)に比べ2倍以上の繊度を有する
部分を単繊維の太部とした。
Eisen Catillon Marine Blue GR
Using LH 200% (cationic dye manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.), dye 1% owf, acetic acid 0.5 g / l, sodium acetate 0.5 g / l, glauber's salt 1.0 g / l, bath ratio 1: Three
Dyeing was carried out under conditions of 0, dyeing temperature 120 ° C., and dyeing time 30 minutes. After dyeing, the thick multifilament yarn is removed and the cross section of the thick dyed portion, which is the thick portion of the thick multifilament yarn, and the light dyed portion, which is the detail of the thick multifilament yarn,
Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. molecular orientation measuring device DELTA-N was used to measure the fiber diameter of each single fiber,
Composition of thick multi-filament yarn in the thick part (detail) Count how many mono-filaments in the single fiber have the thick part (detail). The ratio (%) and the ratio (%) of the details of the single fiber in the details of the thick and thin multifilament yarn were obtained. A portion having a fineness twice or more as compared with the thinnest portion (detail) of the single fiber was defined as a thick portion of the single fiber.

【0039】(単繊維径の比)前記太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸の構成比測定用に作成、染色した織物から緯糸
を、抜糸して濃染部及び淡染部の単繊維を無作為に選択
し、それぞれ100点の繊維径を、カネボウエンジニア
リング(株)製分子配向度測定装置 DELTA−Nを
用いて測定した。最も太い部分の直径と細い部分の比を
単繊維径の比とした。
(Ratio of Single Fiber Diameter) The weft yarn was drawn out from the dyed woven fabric prepared for measuring the composition ratio of the thick and thin multifilament yarns, and the single fibers of the deep dyeing part and the light dyeing part were randomly selected. The fiber diameters at 100 points were measured using a molecular orientation measuring device DELTA-N manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd., respectively. The ratio of the diameter of the thickest part to the diameter of the thinnest part was defined as the ratio of the single fiber diameter.

【0040】(織物外観)カチオン染料で染色した前記
サンプル平織物を目視にてスラブ調太細外観効果を評価
した。 ○:濃淡コントラストが明瞭でスラブ調外観効果が非常
に良好である。 △:濃淡コントラストが明瞭でスラブ調外観効果が良好
である。 ×:濃淡コントラストが不明瞭でスラブ調外観効果は不
十分である。
(Appearance of woven fabric) The slab-like thick and thin appearance effect of the sample plain woven fabric dyed with the cationic dye was visually evaluated. ◯: The contrast of light and shade is clear and the slab-like appearance effect is very good. Δ: The light and shade contrast is clear, and the slab-like appearance effect is good. X: The contrast of gradation is not clear and the slab-like appearance effect is insufficient.

【0041】(実施例1)5−ナトリウムスルホイソフ
タル酸を1.65モル質量%共重合してなる固有粘度
0.58、密度1.38g/cm、融点251℃、T
g76℃のカチオン染料可染性ポリエチレンテレフタレ
ートを、直径0.25mmの紡糸孔を12ケ有する紡糸
口金より、吐出量11.59g/分、紡糸温度280℃
で溶融紡糸し、油剤を付与した後、1414m/分の速
度で引き取り、引き続き、一対のローラー間でエアー圧
400kPaでエアー交絡処理を施しながら1400m
/分で巻き取り、82.8デシテックス(dtex)/
12フィラメント(f)の未延伸糸を得た。
Example 1 Incorporation of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 1.65 mol% by mass, intrinsic viscosity 0.58, density 1.38 g / cm 3 , melting point 251 ° C., T
A cationic dye-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate having a g of 76 ° C. is discharged from a spinneret having 12 spinning holes of 0.25 mm in diameter at an output of 11.59 g / min and a spinning temperature of 280 ° C.
Melt spinning at 1400 m after applying an oil agent and then taking it off at a speed of 1414 m / min, followed by an air entanglement treatment between a pair of rollers at an air pressure of 400 kPa.
Winding in / min, 82.8 decitex (dtex) /
An undrawn yarn of 12 filaments (f) was obtained.

【0042】得られた未延伸糸は、複屈折率が13×1
−3、MDRが3.74で、交絡部を45ケ/m有す
るものであった。この未延伸糸を表1に示す条件で加熱
延伸し、55.0dtex/12fのカチオン染料可染
性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を得た。得ら
れた太細マルチフィラメント糸の評価結果を表1に示し
たが、得られたポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸
からなるカチオン染料で染色した織物は、濃染部と淡染
部とのコントラストが明瞭で、良好なスラブ調外観を呈
するものであった。
The undrawn yarn thus obtained has a birefringence of 13 × 1.
0 -3, MDR is at 3.74, it had a confounding portion 45 Ke / m. The unstretched yarn was heated and stretched under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a 55.0 dtex / 12f cationic dye-dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn. The evaluation results of the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarns are shown in Table 1. The woven fabric dyed with the cationic dye comprising the obtained polyester thick and thin multifilament yarns has a clear contrast between the deep dyed part and the light dyed part. It had a good slab-like appearance.

【0043】(実施例2)実施例1で得られたと同じ未
延伸糸を用い、表1に示す条件で延伸してカチオン染料
可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を得た。
得られた太細マルチフィラメント糸の評価結果を表1に
示した。得られたポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント
糸からなるカチオン染料で染色した織物は、濃染部と淡
染部とのコントラストが明瞭で、良好なスラブ調外観を
呈するものであった。
(Example 2) Using the same unstretched yarn as obtained in Example 1, it was stretched under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a cationic dye-dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarns. The woven fabric obtained by dyeing with the cationic dye comprising the polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn had a clear contrast between the deep dyed part and the lightly dyed part, and had a good slab-like appearance.

【0044】(実施例3)実施例1において、紡糸吐出
量を変更した以外は実施例1と同様の条件で紡糸し、表
1に示す条件で延伸してカチオン染料可染性ポリエステ
ル太細マルチフィラメント糸を得た。得られた太細マル
チフィラメント糸の評価結果を表1に示した。得られた
ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸からなるカチオ
ン染料で染色した織物は、濃染部と淡染部とのコントラ
ストが大きく、良好なスラブ調外観を呈するものであっ
た。
(Example 3) In Example 1, spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the spinning discharge amount was changed, and the spinning was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a cationic dye-dyeable polyester thick thin mulch. A filament yarn was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarns. The woven fabric obtained by dyeing with the cationic dye comprising the polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn had a large contrast between the deep dyed part and the lightly dyed part, and exhibited a good slab-like appearance.

【0045】(比較例1〜3)実施例1で得られたと同
じ未延伸糸を用い、表1に示す条件で延伸して太細マル
チフィラメント糸を得た。得られた太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸の評価結果を表1に示した。比較例1では、延伸
前の予熱工程がないため、得られる太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸の構成単繊維の太細斑が小さく、本発明で定義す
る太細部が存在せず、カチオン染料で染色したときの濃
淡差が小さくなり、目的とするコントラストの明瞭な外
観は得られなかった。比較例2では、延伸後の緩和率が
マイナス(延伸)であるため、得られる太細マルチフィ
ラメント糸の構成単繊維の太細斑が小さく、本発明で定
義する太細部が存在せず、カチオン染料で染色したとき
に明瞭なコントラストの外観が得られなかった。比較例
3では、延伸後の緩和率が大きすぎるため、ローラーに
糸が巻き付き製糸性不良であった。
(Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Using the same undrawn yarn as that obtained in Example 1, it was drawn under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a thick and thin multifilament yarn. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarns. In Comparative Example 1, since there is no preheating step before stretching, the resulting monofilament of the thin multifilament yarn has small thick spots, does not have the large details defined in the present invention, and is dyed with a cationic dye. The difference in lightness and darkness became small, and the desired clear appearance of contrast was not obtained. In Comparative Example 2, since the relaxation rate after stretching is minus (stretching), the thick and thin unevenness of the constituent single fibers of the obtained thick and thin multifilament yarn is small, the thick details defined in the present invention do not exist, and the cation No clear contrast appearance was obtained when dyed. In Comparative Example 3, since the relaxation rate after stretching was too large, the yarn was wound around the roller and the spinnability was poor.

【0046】[0046]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0047】[0047]

【発明の効果】本発明のカチオン可染ポリエステル太細
マルチフィラメント糸は、カチオン染料での染色したと
きにその濃染部と淡染部とのコントラストが明瞭な太細
マルチフィラメント糸であって、この太細マルチフィラ
メント糸により織編物を形成し、カチオン染料で染色し
たとき、淡染領域上に短い濃染部が明瞭に存在する濃淡
コントラストの明瞭な外観が得られる。また、本発明の
カチオン可染ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸の
製造方法によれば、未延伸糸に流体処理による交絡部を
付与し、太細斑延伸した後に緩和熱処理することで単繊
維の太部と細部の過度の分散を抑制し、濃染部と淡染部
のコントラストが明瞭な太細マルチフィラメント糸を安
定に得ることができ、また、本発明の織編物は、カチオ
ン染料に染色したときに、織編物上にスラブ調に濃染部
が強調されたカジュアル調外観を呈し、衣料用途に好適
な織編物である。
The cationic dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn of the present invention is a thick and thin multifilament yarn in which the contrast between the deep dyed part and the light dyed part is clear when dyed with a cationic dye. When a woven or knitted fabric is formed from the thick and thin multifilament yarns and dyed with a cationic dye, a clear dark and light contrast appearance in which a short deeply dyed portion is clearly present on the lightly dyed region is obtained. Further, according to the method for producing a cationic dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn of the present invention, the unstretched yarn is imparted with an entangled portion by fluid treatment, and subjected to thick mottled stretching and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment to thicken the monofilament. It is possible to stably obtain thick and thin multifilament yarns in which the contrast between the deep dyed part and the lightly dyed part is clear, and the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is dyed with a cationic dye. In addition, the woven and knitted fabric has a casual appearance in which the deeply dyed portion is emphasized in a slab tone on the woven and knitted fabric, and is suitable for clothing.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (72)発明者 川島 能則 愛知県豊橋市牛川通四丁目1番地の2 三 菱レイヨン株式会社豊橋事業所内 (72)発明者 坂倉 秀夫 愛知県豊橋市牛川通四丁目1番地の2 三 菱レイヨン株式会社豊橋事業所内 (72)発明者 塩崎 一広 愛知県豊橋市牛川通四丁目1番地の2 三 菱レイヨン株式会社豊橋事業所内 Fターム(参考) 4L035 BB31 BB40 BB78 BB84 BB89 BB91 DD12 DD20 4L036 MA05 PA03 4L048 AA20 AA36 AB07 AB11 AC07 DA01 DA19    ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    (72) Inventor Norikawa Kawashima             2-3, Ushikawadori 4-chome, Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture             Ryo Rayon Co., Ltd. Toyohashi Office (72) Inventor Hideo Sakakura             2-3, Ushikawadori 4-chome, Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture             Ryo Rayon Co., Ltd. Toyohashi Office (72) Inventor Kazuhiro Shiozaki             2-3, Ushikawadori 4-chome, Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture             Ryo Rayon Co., Ltd. Toyohashi Office F-term (reference) 4L035 BB31 BB40 BB78 BB84 BB89                       BB91 DD12 DD20                 4L036 MA05 PA03                 4L048 AA20 AA36 AB07 AB11 AC07                       DA01 DA19

Claims (4)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルからな
る繊維軸方向に太細斑を有する複数の単繊維からなり、
下記要件(1)〜(3)を満足することを特徴とするカ
チオン染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント
糸。 (1)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部を構成する単繊
維の70%以上が単繊維の太部からなり、マルチフィラ
メント糸の細部を構成する単繊維の90%以上が単繊維
の細部からなる。 (2)単繊維の最も太い部分と最も細い部分の単繊維径
の比が1.3以上である。 (3)太細マルチフィラメント糸を後述の条件でカチオ
ン染料にて染色したときに次の(イ)〜(ハ)を同時に
満足する発色特性を顕わす。 (イ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部の発色がL値で
22以上32以下である。 (ロ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の細部の発色がL値で
48以上60以下である。 (ハ)太細マルチフィラメント糸の太部と細部の発色差
がL値で18以上30以下である。
1. A plurality of monofilaments comprising a cationic dye-dyeable polyester and having thick and thin spots in the axial direction of the fiber,
A thick polyester multifilament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye, which satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3). (1) 70% or more of the monofilaments constituting the thick part of the thick and thin multifilament yarn consist of monofilament thick parts, and 90% or more of the monofilaments constituting the details of multifilament yarn consist of monofilament details . (2) The ratio of the monofilament diameters of the thickest part and the thinnest part of the monofilament is 1.3 or more. (3) When the thick and thin multifilament yarn is dyed with a cationic dye under the conditions described below, it exhibits coloring characteristics satisfying the following (a) to (c) at the same time. (A) The color of the thick part of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 22 or more and 32 or less in L value. (B) The color development of the fine multifilament yarn is 48 or more and 60 or less in L value. (C) The color difference between the thick portion and the small portion of the thick and thin multifilament yarn is 18 or more and 30 or less in L value.
【請求項2】 カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルが、主
たる繰り返し単位がエチレンテレフタレ−トであり、5
−ナトリウムスルホイソフタール酸が1.0〜3.5モ
ル%共重合されたポリエステルである請求項1に記載の
カチオン染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメン
ト糸。
2. A cationic dye-dyeable polyester, wherein the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate,
-The polyester multi-filament yarn dyeable with a cationic dye according to claim 1, which is a polyester copolymerized with 1.0 to 3.5 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid.
【請求項3】 複屈折率が10×10−3〜40×10
−3で、かつ交絡部を20〜80ケ/m有する複数の単
繊維からなるカチオン染料可染性ポリエステル未延伸糸
を、下記工程(a)〜(c)で処理することを特徴とす
るカチオン染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメ
ント糸の製造方法。 (a)温度が(カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルのTg
−20℃)〜(カチオン染料可染性ポリエステルのTg
+20℃)、かつ接触時間が4.0×10−2〜4.0
×10−1秒の条件で予熱する工程(但し、Tgはガラ
ス転移温度を表す)。 (b)延伸倍率がMDRの0.40〜0.60倍、延伸
温度が80〜120℃の条件で延伸する工程(但し、M
DRは延伸温度85℃における未延伸糸の最大延伸倍率
を表す)。 (c)延伸後、緩和率が0.1%を超えない弛緩状態に
てカチオン染料可染ポリエステルのTg以上結晶化温度
以下の温度で熱処理する工程。
3. The birefringence is 10 × 10 −3 to 40 × 10.
-3 and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester undrawn yarn consisting of a plurality of single fibers having 20 to 80 entangled parts / m, are treated in the following steps (a) to (c). Dye-dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn manufacturing method. (A) Temperature is (Tg of polyester dyeable with cationic dye)
-20 ° C)-(Tg of polyester dyeable with cationic dye)
+ 20 ° C.) and the contact time is 4.0 × 10 −2 to 4.0.
Step of preheating under the condition of × 10 −1 second (however, Tg represents a glass transition temperature). (B) A step of stretching under the condition that the stretching ratio is 0.40 to 0.60 times MDR and the stretching temperature is 80 to 120 ° C. (however, M
DR represents the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn at a drawing temperature of 85 ° C). (C) A step of heat-treating after stretching at a temperature not lower than Tg and not higher than the crystallization temperature of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester in a relaxed state where the relaxation rate does not exceed 0.1%.
【請求項4】 請求項1又は請求項2に記載のカチオン
染料可染性ポリエステル太細マルチフィラメント糸を含
んでなる織編物。
4. A woven or knit fabric comprising the cationic dye-dyeable polyester thick multifilament yarn according to claim 1 or 2.
JP2002109959A 2002-04-12 2002-04-12 Cation-dyeable polyester thick and thin multifilament yarn and method for producing the same and woven or knitted fabric Pending JP2003306830A (en)

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Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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Publication Number Publication Date
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Country Link
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009144293A (en) * 2007-12-17 2009-07-02 Teijin Fibers Ltd Method for producing cation-dyeable polyester fiber
CN108625025A (en) * 2017-03-21 2018-10-09 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of imitative cotton machine knitted fabric

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009144293A (en) * 2007-12-17 2009-07-02 Teijin Fibers Ltd Method for producing cation-dyeable polyester fiber
CN108625025A (en) * 2017-03-21 2018-10-09 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of imitative cotton machine knitted fabric

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