JP2003138438A - False twist textured yarn - Google Patents

False twist textured yarn

Info

Publication number
JP2003138438A
JP2003138438A JP2001335077A JP2001335077A JP2003138438A JP 2003138438 A JP2003138438 A JP 2003138438A JP 2001335077 A JP2001335077 A JP 2001335077A JP 2001335077 A JP2001335077 A JP 2001335077A JP 2003138438 A JP2003138438 A JP 2003138438A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
false
yarn
false twisted
twisted yarn
false twist
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP2001335077A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP4399699B2 (en
Inventor
Katsumi Baba
克巳 馬場
Shinichiro Kito
真一郎 亀頭
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP2001335077A priority Critical patent/JP4399699B2/en
Publication of JP2003138438A publication Critical patent/JP2003138438A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP4399699B2 publication Critical patent/JP4399699B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a false twist textured yarn composed of ultrafine filaments having slight fluctuation of dyeing density in the fiber axis direction and capable of affording a uniform appearance when used in a woven or a knitted fabric. SOLUTION: This false twist textured yarn is obtained by carrying out false twist texturing of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. The single filament fineness of filaments constituting the false twist textured yarn is <=0.8 [dtex] and <=1.0 [%] value of CV in 5,000 data obtained by measurement with an FYL analyzer and digitizing the data. The false twist textured yarn is prepared by carrying out the false twist texturing of the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. The single filament fineness of the filaments constituting the false twist textured yarn is <=0.8 [dtex] and <=25 [-] maximum value within 3-30 m wavelength of a power spectrum obtained by measurement with the FYL analyzer, digitizing the data and carrying out Fourier analysis of the resultant data.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は熱可塑性合成繊維マ
ルチフィラメントの仮撚加工糸に関し、更に詳しくは繊
維軸方向の染色濃度バラツキが少なく織編物に使用した
際に均斉な外観を与える極細フィラメントから構成され
た仮撚加工糸に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a false-twisted yarn of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, and more specifically to a fine filament which gives a uniform appearance when used in a woven or knitted fabric with little variation in dyeing density in the fiber axis direction. The present invention relates to a configured false twisted yarn.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】仮撚加工は熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィ
ラメントを嵩高化手段の最も合理的な手段として広く利
用されている。スポーツ衣料分野等で利用される極細フ
ィラメントから構成された仮撚加工糸も上市されてい
る。近年、コスト追求の観点から摩擦仮撚施撚体を用い
た高速延伸同時仮撚加工糸も展開されている。極細フィ
ラメントはその溶融紡糸工程において一定の紡糸口金面
積に多くの吐出孔を設ける必要があり、ポリマーを溶融
吐出後空冷する際の風の貫通性が悪く、紡糸口金直下で
の細化現象が不均斉になりやすいため、繊維軸方向に周
期的な繊度斑を生じ易い問題がある(いわゆるレゾナン
ス周期斑)。
2. Description of the Related Art In false twisting, thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments are widely used as the most rational means for increasing the bulk. A false twist textured yarn composed of an ultrafine filament used in the field of sports clothing and the like is also on the market. In recent years, a high-speed drawing simultaneous false-twist textured yarn using a friction false-twisted body has also been developed from the viewpoint of cost pursuit. In the melt-spinning process, ultrafine filaments need to have a large number of discharge holes in a certain area of the spinneret, and the air permeability when air-cooling after melt discharge of the polymer is poor, and the thinning phenomenon just below the spinneret does not occur. Since it tends to be uniform, there is a problem in that periodic fineness unevenness is likely to occur in the fiber axis direction (so-called resonance periodic unevenness).

【0003】その様な繊維軸方向に周期的な繊度斑を有
する極細フィラメントから構成された高配向未延伸マル
チフィラメントを延伸同時仮撚した仮撚加工糸を筒編染
色評価すると、繊維軸方向に周期的な濃淡差(トラ縞、
バンド縞等と呼ぶ)を生じる。特にその延伸同時仮撚が
摩擦仮撚施撚体を用いた高速延伸同時仮撚の場合、加撚
張力、解撚張力に高配向未延伸マルチフィラメントの有
する繊度斑周期に設定延伸倍率が加味された周期性の変
動が明瞭に起こり、その加工糸から得られる染色筒編地
は加撚張力、解撚張力変動にほぼ一致した強い周期性の
濃淡差を示すものとなる。
[0003] When a false twist textured yarn obtained by simultaneously and simultaneously falsely twisting highly oriented undrawn multifilaments composed of ultrafine filaments having such fineness irregularities in the fiber axis direction is evaluated in tubular knitting dyeing, Periodic light and shade difference (tiger stripe,
Called banding). In particular, when the simultaneous drawing false stretching is high-speed simultaneous drawing false twisting using a friction false twisted twisted product, the set draw ratio is added to the twisting tension and the untwisting tension in the fineness unevenness cycle of the highly oriented undrawn multifilament. The periodical fluctuations occur clearly, and the dyed tubular knitted fabric obtained from the processed yarn exhibits a strong periodicity difference that substantially matches the twisting and untwisting tension fluctuations.

【0004】筒編地に強い周期性濃淡差が見られるよう
な仮撚加工糸を使用して染色織編物製品を得ると見苦し
い縞、筋の問題を持つものとなるため、高配向未延伸マ
ルチフィラメントの周期的繊度斑を小さくしようと溶融
紡糸工程の条件を設定しているが、織編物製品でひどい
縞、筋に見えない程度の濃淡差は許容範囲として生産さ
れている極細フィラメント仮撚加工糸が多くある。
When a dyed woven or knitted product is obtained by using a false twisted yarn having a strong periodic shade difference in a tubular knitted fabric, it causes unsightly stripes and streaks. The conditions of the melt spinning process are set to reduce the periodic fineness unevenness of the filament, but the woven and knitted products are produced with an acceptable range for the sharp stripes and the difference in shade that does not look like streaks. There are many threads.

【0005】[0005]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は前記の課題を
解決しようとするものであって、極細フィラメントの仮
撚加工糸の染色織編物が持つ周期的な濃淡差を弱め、殆
ど見えないレベルにまで向上させて、織編物製品の染色
品位を均斉にできる仮撚加工糸を提供しようとするもの
である。
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and weakens the periodic density difference of the dyed woven or knitted fabric of the false twisted textured yarn of the ultrafine filament, and makes it almost invisible. The present invention intends to provide a false twist textured yarn which can improve the dyeing quality of a woven or knitted product evenly by improving the above.

【0006】[0006]

【課題を解決するための手段】上記課題を解決するため
の手段、即ち、本発明の第1は、熱可塑性合成繊維マル
チフィラメントよりなる仮撚加工糸であって、仮撚加工
糸を構成するフィラメントの単繊維繊度が0.8[dt
ex]以下であり、FYLアナライザーで測定しデジタ
ル化した5000個データのCV値が1.0[%]以下で
あることを特徴とする仮撚加工糸であり、その第2は、
熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントよりなる仮撚加工
糸であって、仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラメントの単繊
維繊度が0.8[dtex]以下であり、FYLアナライ
ザーで測定しデジタル化したデータをフーリエ解析して
得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30m内最大値が25
[-]以下であることを特徴とする仮撚加工糸であり、そ
の第3は、仮撚加工糸が請求項1及び請求項2の両方を
満足する仮撚加工糸であり、その第4は、仮撚加工糸が
未延伸マルチフィラメントを摩擦仮撚施撚体で延伸同時
仮撚し、流体交絡処理されている請求項1〜3のいずれ
かに記載の仮撚加工糸であり、その第5は、仮撚加工糸
を構成するフィラメントの単繊維繊度が0.4[dte
x]以下である請求項1〜4のいずれかに記載の仮撚加
工糸であり、その第6は、仮撚加工糸がポリエステルで
ある請求項1〜5のいずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸であ
る。
[Means for Solving the Problems] Means for solving the above problems, that is, a first aspect of the present invention is a false twisted yarn comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, which constitutes a false twisted yarn. Single filament fineness of the filament is 0.8 [dt
ex] or less, and a CV value of 5000 pieces of data measured and digitized by a FYL analyzer is 1.0 [%] or less, and a false twisted yarn, the second of which is
A false twisted yarn made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, in which the filaments constituting the false twisted yarn have a single fiber fineness of 0.8 [dtex] or less, and the data digitized by a FYL analyzer are Fourier-transformed. The maximum value within the wavelength of 3 to 30 m of the power spectrum obtained by analysis is 25
[−] The following is a false twist textured yarn, the third of which is a false twist textured yarn satisfying both claim 1 and claim 4, and the fourth Is a false twisted textured yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the false twisted textured yarn is drawn and simultaneously false twisted with an undrawn multifilament by a friction false twisted twisted body and subjected to fluid entanglement treatment. Fifth, the single fiber fineness of the filaments forming the false twisted yarn is 0.4 [dte
x] or less, which is the false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, and the sixth thereof is the false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the false twisted yarn is polyester. It is a thread.

【0007】本発明で言う熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィ
ラメントとは熱可塑性を有するポリマーからなるマルチ
フィラメントであり、主にポリエステルとポリアミドを
指す。具体的にはポリエチレンテレフトレート、ポリト
リメチレンテレフトレート、ポリブチレンテレフトレー
ト、ポリエチレンイソフタレート、6−ナイロン、6,
6−ナイロン、4,6−ナイロン等が該当する。これら
に少量の重合体や酸化防止剤、制電剤、顔料、艶消し
剤、蛍光増白剤、微細孔形成剤、その他の添加剤等が含
有されていても良い。但し、極細フィラメントからなる
マルチフィラメントを安定的に溶融紡糸する上で、ポリ
エステルは好ましく、もっとも好ましくはポリエチレン
テレフタレートである。
The thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament referred to in the present invention is a multifilament composed of a polymer having thermoplasticity, and mainly refers to polyester and polyamide. Specifically, polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene isophthalate, 6-nylon, 6,
6-nylon, 4,6-nylon, etc. are applicable. These may contain a small amount of a polymer, an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a matting agent, an optical brightening agent, a fine pore forming agent, and other additives. However, polyester is preferable, and polyethylene terephthalate is most preferable, in order to stably melt-spin a multifilament composed of ultrafine filaments.

【0008】本発明の仮撚加工糸は前記のような熱可塑
性合成ポリマーを紡糸して得たマルチフィラメントに仮
撚加工されてなる。仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラメント
の単繊維繊度は0.8[dtex]以下であることが必要
である。0.8[dtex]より単繊維繊度が大きいと、
スポーツ衣料用途織物の耐水圧が満足しづらくなり、風
合いも硬く好ましくない。更に好ましくは0.4[dt
ex]以下である。但し、あまりにも単繊維繊度が小さ
くなり過ぎると仮撚加工時の糸切れや仮撚加工糸の毛羽
が増え、製編織性が悪くなるので0.1[dtex]以上
であることが好ましい。
The false twisted yarn of the present invention is obtained by false twisting the multifilament obtained by spinning the thermoplastic synthetic polymer as described above. The single fiber fineness of the filaments forming the false twisted yarn needs to be 0.8 [dtex] or less. If the single fiber fineness is greater than 0.8 [dtex],
The water pressure resistance of textiles for sports clothing becomes difficult to satisfy, and the texture is hard, which is not preferable. More preferably 0.4 [dt
ex] or less. However, if the monofilament fineness is too small, yarn breakage during false twisting and fluff of false twisted yarns increase, and the weaving and knitting properties deteriorate, so 0.1 [dtex] or more is preferable.

【0009】本発明の仮撚加工糸はFYLアナライザー
で測定し、デジタル化した5000個データのCV値が
1.0[%]以下であるか、あるいはFYLアナライザー
で測定したデータをフーリエ解析して得たパワースペク
トルの波長3〜30m内最大値が25[-]以下であるこ
とが必要である。
The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is measured by a FYL analyzer, and the CV value of 5000 digitized data is 1.0 [%] or less, or the data measured by a FYL analyzer is Fourier analyzed. It is necessary that the maximum value of the obtained power spectrum within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m is 25 [-] or less.

【0010】FYLアナライザーは糸の繊維軸方向の染
色濃度を連続的に測定する装置で、そのアナログデータ
を市販のADコンバーターでデジタルデータに変換して
パソコンに記録することができる。このデータ5000
個のCV値が小さいことは糸の繊維軸方向の染色濃度バ
ラツキが小さいことを意味する。(詳細測定法は後述す
る。)市販されている極細フィラメント仮撚加工糸のC
V値は1.5[%]程度であることが多い。後述のパワー
スペクトルのレベルにもよるが、CV値が1.5[%]レ
ベルの加工糸を筒編染色評価すれば、一見しても欠点と
取られる様な強い濃淡差にはならないが、まじまじと見
るとうっすら濃淡差を持っていることがわかる。このC
V値が1.5[%]レベルの仮撚加工糸を織物の緯糸に使
用し製織後染色すると、欠点に取られる程ではないが、
うっすら縞、筋状の濃淡差を感じ、好ましくない。CV
値が2.0[%]より大きい加工糸は染色筒編地を一見し
て濃淡差が強く不合格となる。もちろん織物に使用した
場合は筋、縞の欠点となり、不合格品と判定される。C
V値が1.0[%]以下の場合、染色筒編地をまじまじと
見ても濃淡差を感じることはなく、織物に使用し染色し
て、まじまじと見ても、殆ど縞、筋状の濃淡差を感じな
い好ましい均斉なものとなる。
The FYL analyzer is a device for continuously measuring the dyeing density in the fiber axis direction of a yarn, and its analog data can be converted into digital data by a commercially available AD converter and recorded in a personal computer. This data 5000
The small CV value means that the variation in dyeing density in the fiber axis direction of the yarn is small. (Detail measuring method will be described later.) C of commercially available ultrafine filament false twisted yarn
The V value is often about 1.5 [%]. Although it depends on the level of the power spectrum, which will be described later, if the textured yarn having a CV value of 1.5 [%] is evaluated by tubular knitting, it does not appear to be a strong difference in light and shade that may be taken as a defect at first glance. If you look at it seriously, you can see that it has a slight shade. This C
When false-twisted yarn having a V value of 1.5% is used as a weft of a woven fabric and dyed after weaving, it is not a defect,
Light stripes and streaky density differences are felt, which is not preferable. CV
The textured yarn having a value of more than 2.0% has a strong difference in shade at the first glance of the dyed tubular knitted fabric and fails. Of course, when it is used as a woven fabric, it has defects such as streaks and stripes and is judged as a rejected product. C
When the V value is 1.0% or less, there is no difference in shade even when the dyed knitted fabric is seen as being serious. It is a desirable and uniform one that does not feel the difference in shade.

【0011】一方、FYLアナライザーで測定したアナ
ログデータをADコンバーターでデジタルデータに変換
し、パソコンに集積すれば、市販のソフトを用いてフー
リエ解析し、パワースペクトルが得られる。特定波長
(糸長)のパワースペクトルが小さいことは繊維軸方向
の染色濃度変動の周期性が弱いことを意味する。極細フ
ィラメント特有の問題点として、吐出孔から溶融吐出し
空冷する際の冷却不良による周期的な繊度斑が起こり易
いことがあげられる。未延伸マルチフィラメントを延伸
後、又は延伸と同時に仮撚加工すると問題となる周期性
はその紡糸速度と延伸倍率に依存するが、3〜30mレ
ベルになる。その波長3〜30m内のパワースペクトル
の最大値が25[-]以下であれば、染色濃度変動が周期
的に現われにくく、結果的に染色筒編地や染色織物に縞
を感じにくくなり、好ましい。パワースペクトルが25
[-]より強いと前記のCV値レベルにもよるが、染色筒
編地や緯糸に使用した染色織物に縞状の濃淡差がうっす
ら見える様になり、好ましくない。パワースペクトルが
30[-]より強いとCV値レベルにもよるが、緯糸に使
用した染色織物は縞欠点により不合格判断となる場合が
多い。第1図は横軸に波長、縦軸にパワースペクトルを
取ったグラフ(スペクトログラム)を示しているが、波
長3〜30m内でパワースペクトルが25[-]以上を示
す部分はなく、本発明において好ましい仮撚加工糸を測
定した場合の例である。第2図は別の仮撚加工糸を測定
したスペクトログラムを示すが、波長約12mの部分に
おいて、パワースペクトルが25[-]を越え、33[-]程
度になっており、本発明中において好ましくないもので
ある。
On the other hand, if analog data measured by a FYL analyzer is converted into digital data by an AD converter and integrated in a personal computer, Fourier analysis is performed using commercially available software to obtain a power spectrum. The fact that the power spectrum of the specific wavelength (thread length) is small means that the periodicity of dyeing density fluctuation in the fiber axis direction is weak. A problem peculiar to the ultrafine filament is that periodic fineness unevenness is likely to occur due to poor cooling when melt-discharged from a discharge hole and air-cooled. When the false-stretching process is performed after the unstretched multifilament is stretched or at the same time as the stretching, the problematic periodicity is at a level of 3 to 30 m depending on the spinning speed and the stretching ratio. When the maximum value of the power spectrum within the wavelength of 3 to 30 m is 25 [-] or less, the variation in the dyeing density is less likely to appear periodically, and as a result, the dyed tubular knitted fabric or the dyed fabric is less likely to have stripes, which is preferable. . Power spectrum is 25
If it is stronger than [-], depending on the CV value level, it is not preferable because a light and shade difference in stripes becomes slightly visible on the dyed woven fabric used for the dyed tubular knitted fabric and the weft. When the power spectrum is higher than 30 [-], the dyed fabric used for the weft is often rejected due to a stripe defect, although it depends on the CV value level. FIG. 1 shows a graph (spectrogram) in which the horizontal axis is the wavelength and the vertical axis is the power spectrum. However, in the present invention, there is no part where the power spectrum is 25 [-] or more within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m. This is an example of measurement of a preferable false twist textured yarn. FIG. 2 shows a spectrogram obtained by measuring another false twisted yarn. The power spectrum exceeds 25 [-] and is about 33 [-] at a wavelength of about 12 m, which is preferable in the present invention. There is no such thing.

【0012】前記のCV値が1.0[%]以下であること
とパワースペクトルが25[-]以下であることの両者を
満足する仮撚加工糸は染色織編物の均斉さにおいて申し
分なく、極めて好ましい加工糸である。
The false twisted yarn satisfying both the above CV value of 1.0 [%] or less and the power spectrum of 25 [-] or less is satisfactory in the uniformity of the dyed woven fabric. It is a very preferable processed yarn.

【0013】本発明の仮撚加工糸は未延伸マルチフィラ
メントを摩擦仮撚施撚体で延伸同時仮撚されていること
が好ましい。高速生産性の点で未延伸マルチフィラメン
トの摩擦仮撚施撚体による延伸同時仮撚は優れており、
コスト低減に有効である。また延伸同時仮撚に連続して
流体交絡処理しておくことは、巻き取り欠点を防ぐこと
や得られた仮撚加工糸の解舒性を向上させること、後工
程での糸切れを防ぐことから好ましい。流体交絡処理に
よる交絡度は後述の測定方法により得られるデータとし
て20〜150[ケ/m]の範囲が好ましい。
In the false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the undrawn multifilament is drawn and simultaneously false twisted by a friction false twisted body. In terms of high-speed productivity, simultaneous drawing and false-twisting with unstretched multifilament friction false-twisted body is excellent.
It is effective for cost reduction. In addition, continuous fluid entanglement treatment during simultaneous drawing false twist prevents winding defects, improves unwindability of the obtained false twist textured yarn, and prevents yarn breakage in the subsequent process. Is preferred. The degree of entanglement by the fluid entanglement process is preferably in the range of 20 to 150 [ke / m] as data obtained by the measuring method described later.

【0014】本発明の仮撚加工糸のトータル繊度は10
[dtex]〜300[dtex]程度が好ましい。また、
仮撚加工に供給するマルチフィラメントの構成フィラメ
ント断面形状は通常の丸断面の他、多葉断面、多角断
面、偏平断面、中空断面の他、特殊異形断面等、紡糸操
業性、仮撚操業性を害しないものであれば、どのような
ものも適用可能である。仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラメ
ントの断面はねじり変形によるフィラメント間接触によ
り断面変形を受けたものとなることが多い。仮撚加工糸
の捲縮特性は1段ヒーター仮撚の場合と2段ヒーターに
よりスタビライズ処理した場合で異なるが、後述の方法
による捲縮発現率が5〜60[%]であることが好まし
い。
The total fineness of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is 10
It is preferably about [dtex] to 300 [dtex]. Also,
Constituents of multifilament to be supplied for false twisting In addition to normal round cross section, multifilament cross section has multi-lobed cross section, polygon cross section, flat cross section, hollow cross section, special deformed cross section, etc. Anything can be applied as long as it does not hurt. The cross section of the filaments forming the false twisted yarn is often subjected to cross-sectional deformation due to contact between filaments due to torsional deformation. The crimp characteristics of the false twist textured yarn are different between the case of the false twist of the one-stage heater and the case of the stabilizer treatment by the two-stage heater, but the crimp development rate by the method described later is preferably 5 to 60%.

【0015】本発明の仮撚加工糸を製造する方法は特に
限定されないが、一例を説明する。本発明の仮撚加工糸
は熱可塑性合成ポリマーを溶融紡糸設備で紡糸し、延伸
後仮撚加工するか、又は延伸同時仮撚することにより得
られる。仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラメントの単繊維繊
度が0.8[dtex]以下であることが必要である。仮
撚加工糸のFYLデータCV値を小さくし、パワースペ
クトルの波長3〜30m内最大値を小さくするために
は、溶融紡糸工程において、溶融吐出されたフィラメン
トの細化現象を均斉にして未延伸マルチフィラメントの
繊維軸方向の周期的な繊度斑を小さくすることが重要で
ある。未延伸マルチフィラメントの後述の測定法による
URI値が2.5[%]以下であり、2〜20m程度の波
長部分のパワースペクトルが弱いことが好ましい。その
ためには紡糸口金に設けられた複数ケの吐出孔各々の間
隔を広くすることや風の貫通性が高くなる吐出孔配列と
することが効果的である。また、紡糸口金吐出面から空
冷による風が送られる地点までの距離を短くすることが
有効で、風速は紡糸操業性を害しない程度に大きくする
ことが好ましい。但し、紡糸口金吐出面が冷却され温度
が低下すると操業性や未延伸マルチフィラメントの力学
的特性を害するので、必要に応じて紡糸口金を保温する
ヒーターを使用すること、風の向きを一定に保つ様な整
流板を設けることなどの工夫は有効である。未延伸マル
チフィラメントにはなるべく均斉に適宜油剤を付与して
巻き取られる。空冷後、及び/又は巻き取り前の地点で
交絡度が0.2〜20[ケ/m]程度になる様に流体交絡
処理しても良い。
The method for producing the false twist textured yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but an example will be described. The false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained by spinning a thermoplastic synthetic polymer in a melt spinning facility and performing false twisting after stretching or false twisting simultaneously with stretching. It is necessary that the single fiber fineness of the filament constituting the false twist textured yarn is 0.8 [dtex] or less. In order to reduce the FYL data CV value of the false twisted textured yarn and the maximum value of the power spectrum within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m, in the melt spinning step, the thinning phenomenon of the melted and discharged filament is made uniform and undrawn. It is important to reduce the periodic fineness unevenness in the fiber axis direction of the multifilament. It is preferable that the unstretched multifilament has a URI value of 2.5 [%] or less according to the measurement method described later and a weak power spectrum in a wavelength portion of about 2 to 20 m. For that purpose, it is effective to widen the interval between each of the plurality of discharge holes provided in the spinneret and to arrange the discharge holes so that the air permeability becomes high. Also, it is effective to shorten the distance from the spinneret discharge surface to the point where air is blown by air cooling, and it is preferable to increase the wind speed to such an extent that spinnability is not impaired. However, if the spinneret discharge surface is cooled and the temperature drops, the operability and mechanical properties of the unstretched multifilament are impaired, so use a heater to keep the spinneret warm if necessary, and keep the wind direction constant. It is effective to devise such as providing such a current plate. The unstretched multifilament is wound as uniformly as possible with an appropriate oil agent. The fluid entanglement treatment may be performed so that the degree of entanglement becomes about 0.2 to 20 [ke / m] after air cooling and / or before winding.

【0016】未延伸マルチフィラメントを延伸して延伸
糸を得た後、仮撚する場合には紡糸速度は特に限定され
ず、1000〜4000[m/min]で紡糸巻き取りを
行う。紡糸巻き取り後の未延伸マルチフィラメントはガ
ラス転移温度近傍の温度で適宜延伸し、延伸マルチフィ
ラメントとなる。延伸中に熱セットを施して熱収縮率を
適宜調節することができる。紡糸と延伸を連続させて延
伸糸を得た後、仮撚加工しても良い。未延伸マルチフィ
ラメントを延伸同時仮撚する場合には延伸同時仮撚時の
糸掛け性や未延伸マルチフィラメントの経時変化の観点
からあまりに遅いことは好ましくなく、1800〜40
00[m/min]の紡糸巻き取り速度が好ましい。仮撚
施撚体はピンスピンドルタイプ、旋回流エアノズルタイ
プ、摩擦仮撚施撚体タイプ(3軸外接式摩擦仮撚タイ
プ、交差ベルト式ニップ仮撚タイプ)等が使用できる
が、高速生産性の観点からは未延伸マルチフィラメント
を摩擦仮撚施撚体を用いて延伸同時仮撚することが好ま
しい。仮撚加工は1段ヒーターでも良いし、2段ヒータ
ー仮撚してスタビライズ処理しても良い。1段目ヒータ
ー(仮撚熱固定ヒーター)出口での糸温度はポリマーの
種類や延伸糸を仮撚加工する場合と未延伸糸を延伸同時
仮よりする場合等で若干異なるが、140〜220[℃]
程度が好ましい。2段目ヒーター(残留トルク減殺、捲
縮スタビライズヒーター)を用いてスタビライズ処理す
る場合は2段目ヒーターの温度を160〜220[℃]程
度に設定し、2段目ヒーターゾーンのフィード率を5〜
20[%]程度の弛緩状態とすることが好ましい。仮撚加
工時の仮撚数はポリマーの種類にもよるが、ピンスピン
ドルタイプの場合、仮撚数[T/m]×√加工糸dtex
が26000〜34000程度が好ましい。仮撚解撚
後、巻き取りまでの間で流体交絡処理することは巻形状
不良の防止、仮撚加工糸解舒性の向上、後工程での取扱
い性向上の観点から好ましい。流体交絡処理に用いるノ
ズルはインターレーサーノズル、タスランノズルと呼ば
れるエアジェットノズルが好適に使用でき、特にインタ
ーレーサーノズルが好ましい。インターレーサーノズル
を使用した場合の流体交絡処理条件は0.3〜5.0
[%]程度の弛緩状態で糸を走行させ、エアー圧力を0.
2〜3.0[kg/cm2]程度とすれば良い。巻き取り
前に適宜オイリングしておくことにより、解舒性、後工
程での取扱い性が向上する。
In the case of false twisting after drawing an unstretched multifilament to obtain a stretched yarn, the spinning speed is not particularly limited, and the spinning is wound at 1000 to 4000 [m / min]. The unstretched multifilament after spinning and winding is appropriately stretched at a temperature near the glass transition temperature to form a stretched multifilament. The heat shrinkage can be appropriately adjusted by applying heat setting during stretching. After the spinning and the drawing are continued to obtain the drawn yarn, false twisting may be performed. When the undrawn multifilament is subjected to simultaneous drawing and false twisting, it is not preferable that it is too slow from the viewpoint of the yarn hooking property during simultaneous drawing and false twisting and the change with time of the undrawn multifilament.
A spinning winding speed of 00 [m / min] is preferable. As the false twisted twisted body, a pin spindle type, a swirling air nozzle type, a friction false twisted twisted body type (3-axis external contact friction false twist type, cross belt type nip false twist type), etc. can be used, but high speed productivity From the viewpoint, it is preferable that the unstretched multifilament is simultaneously stretched and false-twisted by using a friction false-twisted body. The false twisting process may be performed by using a one-stage heater or a two-stage heater by false twisting and stabilizing treatment. The yarn temperature at the exit of the first stage heater (heater for false twist fixing) is slightly different depending on the type of polymer, the case of false twisting the drawn yarn and the case of simultaneously twisting the undrawn yarn at the same time. ℃]
A degree is preferable. When using the second stage heater (residual torque reduction, crimped stabilization heater) for stabilization, set the temperature of the second stage heater to about 160 to 220 [° C] and set the feed rate of the second stage heater zone to 5 ~
It is preferable that the relaxation state is about 20%. The number of false twists during false twisting depends on the type of polymer, but in the case of the pin spindle type, the number of false twists [T / m] x √ processed yarn dtex
Is preferably about 26000 to 34000. It is preferable to perform the fluid entanglement treatment after the false twisting and before the winding from the viewpoints of preventing the winding shape defect, improving the untwisting property of the false twisted textured yarn, and improving the handleability in the subsequent step. An air jet nozzle called an interlacer nozzle or a Taslan nozzle can be preferably used as a nozzle used for the fluid entanglement treatment, and an interlacer nozzle is particularly preferable. The fluid confounding condition when using the interlacer nozzle is 0.3 to 5.0
The yarn is run in a relaxed state of about [%] and the air pressure is reduced to 0.
It may be about 2 to 3.0 [kg / cm 2 ]. By appropriately oiling before winding, unwinding property and handling in the subsequent process are improved.

【0017】前記の様にして得られた仮撚加工糸は製編
織して布帛となし、染色加工される。仮撚加工糸に必要
に応じて実撚、オイリング、サイジング等を施し、製編
織する。該仮撚加工糸は他の糸条と合糸、合撚、混繊、
交編、交織等の方法で混用させて用いても良い。織編物
はその用途に応じて染色加工される。例えばスポーツ衣
料用織物の場合、リラックス、プレセット、染色、ファ
イナルセットされるが、染色前あるいは染色後にカレン
ダー加工を施すこともある。必要に応じてラミネート加
工、コーティング加工、パディング加工等で透湿防水
性、撥水性、吸湿発熱性等、特殊な機能性を付与するこ
ともできる。婦人衣料ポリエステル織物用途の場合、染
色前にアルカリ減量処理することにより、風合いがソフ
ト化し、好ましい。染色後、帯電防止剤等適宜付与して
ファイナルセットし、染色加工織物を得る。
The false twisted yarn obtained as described above is knitted and woven into a cloth, and dyed. If necessary, the false twisted yarn is subjected to actual twisting, oiling, sizing, etc., and then knitted or woven. The false twisted yarn is mixed with other yarns, mixed twist, mixed fiber,
You may mix and use by methods, such as a mixed knitting and a mixed weaving. The woven or knitted product is dyed according to its use. For example, textiles for sports clothing are relaxed, preset, dyed, and final set, but may be calendered before or after dyeing. If necessary, special functions such as moisture permeability and water repellency, water repellency, and heat absorption by moisture absorption can be imparted by laminating, coating, padding, or the like. In the case of using polyester fabrics for women's clothing, alkali reduction treatment prior to dyeing is preferable because the texture is softened. After dyeing, an antistatic agent or the like is appropriately added and final setting is performed to obtain a dyed woven fabric.

【0018】[0018]

【実施例】以下具体的実施例を挙げて説明する。尚、本
発明中で用いた各特性値の測定法は下記によった。
EXAMPLES Specific examples will be described below. The method of measuring each characteristic value used in the present invention was as follows.

【0019】(FYLアナライザー測定)東レエンジニ
アリング社製FYL−500SR装置を使用する。基本
的には取扱説明書に沿って、染色槽、洗浄槽の準備をす
る。染色槽は水約30リットルに指定染料(東レブル
ー)あるいはそれに準ずるブルー色相検定染料を1kg
と分散剤(日華化学社製サンソルトWA)を200gを
入れて溶解させた状態にし、95℃に保つ。洗浄槽には
水を満たし、85℃に保つ。洗浄槽には常に新しい水が
注がれ、オーバーフローによって、少しずつ入れかわる
ようにしておく。試料加工糸をクリールに立て、解舒さ
せて染色槽に導く。染色槽中のネルソンローラー上での
糸−糸接触が起こらないようにネルソンローラーの角度
を適宜調節して、ネルソンローラーに試料加工糸を45
回捲回させる。染色槽から試料加工糸を洗浄ノズルに導
き、洗浄槽に導く。洗浄槽中のネルソンローラー上での
糸−糸接触が起こらないようにネルソンローラーの角度
適宜調節して、ネルソンローラーに試料加工糸を7回捲
回させる。洗浄槽から試料加工糸を水切りノズル、水切
りスピンドルに順次導き、測定部に導く。洗浄ノズルの
調圧弁を調節し、圧力を1.0[kg/cm2]に設定す
る。水切りノズルについても調圧弁を調節し、1.2
[kg/cm2]に設定する。測定部については事前に標
準サンプル(白色100[%]及び青色40[%])を30
[m/min]で走行させ、FYL[%]データレベルを設
定しておく。
(Measurement of FYL analyzer) A FYL-500SR device manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd. is used. Basically, prepare a dyeing tank and a washing tank according to the instruction manual. The dyeing tank uses about 30 liters of water with 1 kg of the designated dye (Toray Blue) or the equivalent blue hue test dye.
And 200 g of a dispersant (Sun Salt WA manufactured by Nichika Kagaku Co., Ltd.) were put into a dissolved state and kept at 95 ° C. The washing tank is filled with water and kept at 85 ° C. Fresh water is constantly poured into the washing tank, and it is gradually replaced by overflow. The sample processed yarn is erected on the creel, unwound and guided to the dyeing tank. Adjust the angle of the Nelson roller appropriately so that the yarn-yarn contact on the Nelson roller in the dyeing tank does not occur, and the sample processed yarn is placed on the Nelson roller 45 times.
Let it wind. The sample processed yarn is guided from the dyeing tank to the cleaning nozzle and then to the cleaning tank. The sample-processed yarn is wound 7 times on the Nelson roller by appropriately adjusting the angle of the Nelson roller so that the yarn-yarn contact on the Nelson roller in the washing tank does not occur. From the washing tank, the sample processed yarn is guided to the draining nozzle and draining spindle in order, and then to the measuring section. Adjust the pressure regulating valve of the cleaning nozzle to set the pressure to 1.0 [kg / cm 2 ]. Adjust the pressure regulator valve for the water drain nozzle to 1.2
Set to [kg / cm 2 ]. For the measurement part, 30 standard samples (100% white and 40% blue) were prepared in advance.
Run at [m / min] and set FYL [%] data level.

【0020】水切りノズルから測定部に導いた試料加工
糸は取扱説明書に沿って糸道を作る。ノット検知端から
仮撚パートを通って、測色部に導き、ローラーを介して
エジェクターで引き取る。エジェクターの調圧弁を調節
して1.5[kg/cm2]に調節する。
The sample-processed yarn guided from the draining nozzle to the measuring section forms a yarn path according to the instruction manual. From the knot detection end, pass through the false twist part, lead to the color measurement section, and take it out by the ejector via the roller. Adjust the pressure regulator of the ejector to 1.5 [kg / cm 2 ].

【0021】通常のFYL測定では付属の出力パートを
用いてデータ出力させるが、本発明においてはFYL測
色アナログ信号をADコンバーターとウインドウズ’9
7インストールパソコンを用いてデータ出力させる。A
Dコンバーターはキーエンス社製NR−2000を用
い、付属ソフトをパソコンにインストールしておく。ま
た、パソコンにはマイクロソフトエクセル’97ソフト
をインストールしておく。ADコンバーターからの配線
を専用PCカード等を用いてパソコンに接続する。パソ
コンを操作してADコンバーターの0点調節をする。F
YLアナログデータ信号配線2本をADコンバーターに
導き、アナログ電圧信号をデジタルデータ化してパソコ
ンのハードディスクに集積できるようにする。
In the usual FYL measurement, data is output using the attached output part, but in the present invention, the FYL colorimetric analog signal is sent to the AD converter and Windows' 9.
7 Install Output data using a personal computer. A
NR-2000 manufactured by Keyence Corporation is used as the D converter, and the attached software is installed in the personal computer. Also, install Microsoft Excel '97 software on your computer. Connect the wiring from the AD converter to the personal computer using a dedicated PC card. Operate the personal computer and adjust the 0 point of the AD converter. F
Two YL analog data signal wirings are led to an AD converter so that the analog voltage signal can be converted into digital data and integrated into the hard disk of a personal computer.

【0022】クリールからエジェクターまでの試料加工
糸の糸道とADコンバーター、パソコンの設定ができれ
ば30[m/min]の速度でFYLアナライザーを運転
する。パソコンを操作して、デジタル電圧データサンプ
リング周波数を2.67[Hz](375[ミリ秒]毎のデ
ータサンプリング)、測定回数をシングルモードとし、
サンプリング数5000個に設定する。試料加工糸を走
行させてしばらくの間は染色槽中に滞留して長時間放置
染色された濃染性部分があるため、FYLアナライザー
のFYL[%]データアナログメーターを見て、安定する
まで待つ。(濃染性部のFYL[%]データは低い値を示
す。)新たに染色槽に連続的に送られた糸が測色部を通
過することによって、FYL[%]データが高い値に上昇
し、安定したのを確認後、パソコンを操作して、デジタ
ル電圧データサンプリングを実施する。サンプリングさ
れたデジタル電圧データ[V]をパソコンのハードディス
クに保存する(拡張子は.ndh)。
If the yarn path of the sample processed yarn from the creel to the ejector, the AD converter, and the personal computer can be set, the FYL analyzer is operated at a speed of 30 [m / min]. Operate the personal computer to set the digital voltage data sampling frequency to 2.67 [Hz] (data sampling every 375 [millisecond]) and set the number of measurements to single mode,
The sampling number is set to 5000. Run the sample processed yarn, stay in the dyeing tank for a while and leave it for a long time. There is a deep dyeing part that has been dyed, so look at the FYL [%] data analog meter of the FYL analyzer and wait until it stabilizes. . (The FYL [%] data of the deep dyeing part shows a low value.) The newly sent yarn continuously sent to the dyeing tank passes through the colorimetric part, and the FYL [%] data rises to a high value. Then, after confirming that it is stable, operate the personal computer and perform digital voltage data sampling. The sampled digital voltage data [V] is saved in the hard disk of the personal computer (extension is .ndh).

【0023】(CV値の算出)拡張子.ndhから.c
svを介して最終的にマイクロソフトエクセル’97で
演算できる様に.xlsに変換する。マイクロソフトエ
クセル’97を起動し、集積された5000個サンプリ
ングデジタル電圧データ[V]の平均値と母標準偏差を算
出し、次式によりCV値を得る。 CV値[%]={(母標準偏差)/(平均値)}×100
(Calculation of CV value) Extension. From ndh. c
Finally to be able to calculate with Microsoft Excel '97 via sv. Convert to xls. Start Microsoft Excel '97, calculate the average value and population standard deviation of the accumulated 5000 sampling digital voltage data [V], and obtain the CV value by the following formula. CV value [%] = {(population standard deviation) / (average value)} × 100

【0024】(パワースペクトル最大値の算出)デジタ
ルサンプリング電圧データ[V]は糸長0.1875[m]
に1回毎である。従って5000個サンプリングに対応
する糸長は937.5[m]に相当する。このデータのう
ち、サンプリング開始1回目から4096回目(糸長7
68[m])についてパワースペクトル解析を行う。マイ
クロソフトエクセル’97の分析ツールの中のフーリエ
解析を実施する。フーリエ解析データは複素数となる
が、マイクロソフトエクセル’97中の関数IMABS
を用いて複素数の絶対値を得て、1回目から4096回
目の4096個のパワースペクトルデータとする。それ
ぞれの測定糸長から波長[m]をマイクロソフトエクセ
ル’97で算出する。サンプリング開始1回目のデータ
は糸長0.1875[m]部に当たり、4096回目は糸
長768[m]に当たるが、それぞれ次式によって波長が
導かれる。 サンプリングn回目の波長[m]=144/サンプリング
n回目の糸長[m]=144/(0.1875[m]×n) 従って、サンプリング開始1回目の波長は768[m]、
2回目は384[m]、3回目は256[m]となり、順次
計算すると4096回目の波長は0.1875[m]とな
る。横軸に波長データ[m]、縦軸にパワースペクトルデ
ータ[-]を取り、横軸範囲を3〜30[m]、縦軸を0[-]
以上の適当なスケールを選ぶと第1図の様なグラフが得
られる。横軸(波長)3〜30[m]内におけるパワース
ペクトル最大値[-]を読み取る。例えば第1図の例ではパ
ワースペクトル最大値は13.3[-]であり、本発明の
仮撚加工糸として好ましいものである。
(Calculation of maximum value of power spectrum) Digital sampling voltage data [V] is yarn length 0.1875 [m]
Every once in a while. Therefore, the yarn length corresponding to sampling of 5000 yarns corresponds to 937.5 [m]. Of this data, the first to 4096th sampling starts (thread length 7
68 [m]) is subjected to power spectrum analysis. Perform a Fourier analysis in the analysis tool of Microsoft Excel '97. Fourier analysis data is a complex number, but the function IMABS in Microsoft Excel '97
Is used to obtain the absolute value of the complex number, and set as 4096 power spectrum data from the first time to the 4096th time. The wavelength [m] is calculated from each measured yarn length with Microsoft Excel '97. The data of the first sampling start corresponds to the yarn length of 0.1875 [m], and the 4096th time corresponds to the yarn length of 768 [m], and the wavelength is derived by the following equations. Sampling nth wavelength [m] = 144 / sampling nth yarn length [m] = 144 / (0.1875 [m] × n) Therefore, the first sampling start wavelength is 768 [m],
The second time is 384 [m], the third time is 256 [m], and when sequentially calculated, the 4096th wavelength is 0.1875 [m]. Wavelength data [m] is plotted on the horizontal axis, and power spectrum data [-] is plotted on the vertical axis. The horizontal axis range is 3 to 30 [m] and the vertical axis is 0 [-].
A graph like the one shown in FIG. 1 is obtained by selecting the appropriate scale. The maximum value [-] of the power spectrum within the horizontal axis (wavelength) 3 to 30 [m] is read. For example, in the example of FIG. 1, the maximum value of the power spectrum is 13.3 [-], which is preferable as the false twisted yarn of the present invention.

【0025】(交絡度)適当な長さの試料加工糸を取り
出し、下端に1/10[cN/dtex]の荷重をかけて垂
直に吊り下げる。次いで適当な針を試料加工糸中につき
出し、ゆっくり持ち上げ荷重が持ち上がるまでに針が移
動する距離[mm]を20[回]測定し、平均値L[mm]を
得る。交絡度は次式により算出する。 交絡度[ケ/m] = 1000 / (2 × L)
(A degree of entanglement) A sample processed yarn having an appropriate length is taken out and vertically suspended by applying a load of 1/10 [cN / dtex] to the lower end. Then, an appropriate needle is put into the sample processed yarn, and the distance [mm] that the needle moves until the load is slowly lifted and lifted is measured 20 [times] to obtain an average value L [mm]. The degree of confounding is calculated by the following formula. Entanglement degree [ke / m] = 1000 / (2 x L)

【0026】(捲縮発現率)適当な枠周のラップリール
で1/10[cN/dtex]の荷重下において、8回巻
のカセをつくる。無荷重の状態で沸騰水中に5分間浸漬
する。試料を沸騰水中から取り出し湿潤状態のまま2/
10[cN/dtex]の荷重をかけて1分後のカセの長
さm〔cm〕を測定する。次に荷重を取り除き、軽く水
を切った後、60〔℃〕のオーブン中で30分間乾燥す
る。オーブンから糸を取り出し、1時間放冷後、2/1
000[cN/dtex]の荷重をかけ、1分後のカセの
長さn[cm]を測定する。測定は5回繰り返し、m[c
m]、n[cm]各々の平均値M[cm]、N[cm]を求め
る。捲縮発現率[%]は次式により算出される。 捲縮発現率[%]={(M−N)/M}×100
(Crimp occurrence rate) A wrap reel having an appropriate frame circumference is used to form a 8-winding cassette under a load of 1/10 [cN / dtex]. Immerse in boiling water for 5 minutes with no load. Remove the sample from the boiling water and keep it wet 2 /
A load of 10 [cN / dtex] is applied, and the length m [cm] of the cassette after 1 minute is measured. Next, the load is removed, the water is lightly drained, and then dried in an oven at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes. Remove the yarn from the oven and let it cool for 1 hour, then 2/1
A load of 000 [cN / dtex] is applied, and the length n [cm] of the cassette after 1 minute is measured. Measurement is repeated 5 times, m [c
Average values M [cm] and N [cm] of m] and n [cm] are obtained. The crimp occurrence rate [%] is calculated by the following formula. Crimp occurrence rate [%] = {(M−N) / M} × 100

【0027】(URI値)ツェルベガーウースター社製
ウースターイーブネステスター3を用い、イナートテス
トにて測定する。マルチフイラメントのデニールにより
スロットを選定し、仮撚を付与しながら糸速50m/m
inで2分間測定し、チャートを描かせる。その際、マ
ルチフィラメントの平均デニールがチャートの中央に描
かれる様、調節しておく。得られたチャートの最大値を
A[%]、最小値をB[%]とするとき、URI値は次式に
より算出される。 URI〔%〕= A − B
(URI value) It is measured by an inert test using Wooster Eve Nestester 3 manufactured by Zellbeger Wooster. A slot is selected by the denier of multifilament, and the yarn speed is 50 m / m while giving false twist.
Measure in for 2 minutes and draw a chart. At that time, adjust so that the average denier of the multifilament is drawn in the center of the chart. When the maximum value of the obtained chart is A [%] and the minimum value is B [%], the URI value is calculated by the following formula. URI [%] = A-B

【0028】(繊度斑の周期性)ツェルベガーウースタ
ー社製ウースターイーブネステスター3を用い、ノルマ
ルテストにて測定する。マルチフィラメントのデニール
によりスロットを選定し、仮撚を付与しながら糸速50
m/minで10分間測定し、付属のパワースペクトル
解析装置でスペクトログラムを描かせる。周期的な繊度
斑があれば、パワースペクトルの高い波長部分が現われ
る。
(Periodic periodicity of fineness unevenness) It is measured by a normal test using Wooster Eve Nestester 3 manufactured by Zellbeger Wooster. A slot is selected by the denier of multifilament, and the yarn speed is 50 while giving false twist.
Measure at m / min for 10 minutes and draw a spectrogram with the attached power spectrum analyzer. If there are periodic unevenness of fineness, the high wavelength part of the power spectrum appears.

【0029】(実施例1)固有粘度0.62のポリエチ
レンテレフトレートセミダルチップを溶融紡糸設備を用
い、口金外周面径66[mm]に72[ケ]の丸形状吐出孔
を配列した紡糸口金から溶融吐出し、紡糸口金吐出面か
ら20[mm]下方の地点から風速0.45[m/sec]
で空冷し、油剤付与後、2400[m/min]で回転す
るゴデットローラーに捲回させ、連続的に延伸熱セット
して56[dtex]/72[フィラメント]のポリエチレ
ンテレフタレート延伸マルチフィラメントを得た。該延
伸マルチフィラメントのURI値は1.5[%]でウース
ターイーブネステスターのスペクトログラムに見られる
周期性は弱いものであった。該延伸マルチフィラメント
を愛機製作所製TH−312型ピンスピンドルタイプ仮
撚機で1段ヒーター仮撚した。仮撚加工速度は120[m
/min]、仮撚数は4000[T/m]、ヒーター温度
は190[℃]とし、加撚張力が6[g]になる様フィード
率を調節した。得られた仮撚加工糸は捲縮発現率が41
[%]で、FYLアナライザーで測定し、デジタル化した
5000個データのCV値は0.74[%]、フーリエ解
析して得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30m内最大値
が13.0[-]であった。該仮撚加工糸を筒編検定染色
したところ、若干のイラツキはあっても、縞、筋様の濃
淡差は全く見られない好ましいものであった。経糸に5
6[dtex]/72[fil]のポリエチレンテレフタレ
ートセミダル延伸マルチフィラメントをサイジング整経
し、緯糸として該仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度149
[本/インチ]、緯糸密度112[本/インチ]で平織り
し、高密度タフタ織物を得た。常法により、リラック
ス、プレセット、染色し、カレンダー加工して、染色加
工織物とした。該染色加工織物はソフトでスポーツ衣料
用途として耐水圧を一通り満足しており、緯糸の繊維軸
方向の染色濃度斑による筋、縞を感じない均斉な好まし
いものであった。
(Example 1) A polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal tip having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 was spun by using a melt spinning facility, in which 72 [ke] round discharge holes were arranged on the outer peripheral surface diameter of the spinneret 66 [mm]. Melt and discharge from the spinneret, and wind speed 0.45 [m / sec] from a point 20 [mm] below the spinneret discharge surface.
After air-cooling, applying an oil agent, winding it on a godet roller rotating at 2400 [m / min], and continuously setting the drawing heat to obtain 56 [dtex] / 72 [filament] polyethylene terephthalate drawn multifilaments. It was The drawn multifilament had a URI value of 1.5%, and the periodicity seen in the spectrogram of the Worcester-Even tester was weak. The drawn multifilament was false twisted with a single stage heater using a TH-312 type pin spindle type false twisting machine manufactured by Aikiki Seisakusho. False twisting speed is 120 [m
/ Min], the false twist number was 4000 [T / m], the heater temperature was 190 [° C], and the feed rate was adjusted so that the twisting tension was 6 [g]. The obtained false twisted yarn has a crimp development rate of 41.
The CV value of 5000 pieces of data measured with a FYL analyzer and digitized is 0.74 [%], and the maximum value within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m of the power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis is 13.0 [-]. ]Met. When the false twist textured yarn was dyed by the tubular knitting test, it was preferable that no stripe or streak-like density difference was observed at all, even if there was some irregularity. 5 for warp
A 6 [dtex] / 72 [fil] polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal oriented multifilament was sized and warped, and the false twisted yarn was used as a weft, and a warp density of 149
[Book / inch] and weft density 112 [Book / inch] were plain woven to obtain a high density taffeta fabric. By a conventional method, a relaxed, preset, dyed, and calendered to give a dyed woven fabric. The dye-processed woven fabric was soft and satisfied a certain level of water pressure resistance for use in sports clothing, and it was a uniform and preferable one in which no stripes or streaks due to uneven dyeing density in the fiber axis direction of the weft were felt.

【0030】(比較例1)口金吐出孔の数が48[ケ]の
紡糸口金に変更した他はほぼ実施例1と同様に延伸マル
チフィラメント(56[dtex]/48[fil])を得
た。URI値は1.4[%]で周期性は弱かった。実施例
1とほぼ同様に仮撚加工糸を得た。該仮撚加工糸の捲縮
発現率は48[%]、FYLアナライザーで測定し、デジ
タル化した5000個データのCV値は0.70[%]、
フーリエ解析して得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30
m内最大値は11.4[-]であった。実施例1と同様に
染色筒編地と染色加工織物を得たところ、染色均一性に
は優れていたが、ソフト感、スポーツ衣料用織物として
の耐水圧において、満足しないものであった。
(Comparative Example 1) A stretched multifilament (56 [dtex] / 48 [fil]) was obtained in substantially the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spinneret had 48 [ke] spinnerets. . The URI value was 1.4% and the periodicity was weak. A false twist textured yarn was obtained in substantially the same manner as in Example 1. The crimp occurrence rate of the false twist textured yarn is 48 [%], the CV value of the data of 5000 digitized and measured by FYL analyzer is 0.70 [%],
Wavelength of power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis 3 to 30
The maximum value in m was 11.4 [-]. When a dyed tubular knitted fabric and a dyed woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, the dyeing uniformity was excellent, but the soft feel and the water pressure resistance of the woven fabric for sports clothing were unsatisfactory.

【0031】(実施例2)固有粘度0.62のポリエチ
レンテレフトレートセミダルチップを溶融紡糸設備を用
い、口金外周面径66[mm]に72[ケ]の吐出孔を配列
した紡糸口金から溶融吐出し、紡糸口金吐出面から20
[mm]下方の地点から風速0.45[m/sec]で空冷
し、油剤付与後、2400[m/min]で、隣り合う2
ケの紡糸口金から得られた未延伸マルチフィラメント2
本を引き揃え、80[dtex]/144[fil]として
引き取った。引き取られた未延伸マルチフィラメントの
URI値は2.0[%]で周期性は弱かった。愛機製作所
製TH−312型ピンスピンドルタイプ仮撚機で1段ヒ
ーター延伸同時仮撚し、仮撚加工糸を得た。仮撚数は4
200[T/m]、延伸倍率は1.47倍、ヒーター温度
は170℃とした。該仮撚加工糸の捲縮発現率は35
[%]で、FYLアナライザーで測定し、デジタル化した
5000個データのCV値は0.94[%]、フーリエ解
析して得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30m内最大値
が17.0[-]であった。実施例1と同様に染色筒編地
と染色加工織物を得た。該染色加工織物は実施例1の染
色加工織物のソフト感、耐水圧を向上させた更に好まし
いものであった。
(Example 2) A polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal tip having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 was formed from a spinneret in which 72 [ke] discharge holes were arranged on the outer peripheral surface diameter of the spinneret 66 [mm] using a melt spinning facility. Melt and discharge, 20 from the spinneret discharge surface
Air-cooled from a point below [mm] at a wind speed of 0.45 [m / sec], and after applying an oil agent, at 2400 [m / min], two adjacent
Unstretched multifilament 2 obtained from spinneret of ke
The books were aligned and collected as 80 [dtex] / 144 [fil]. The URI value of the drawn non-stretched multifilament was 2.0 [%] and the periodicity was weak. Using a TH-312 type pin spindle type false twisting machine manufactured by Aikiki Co., Ltd., a single-stage heater was simultaneously drawn and false twisted to obtain a false twisted processed yarn. False twist number is 4
The temperature was 200 [T / m], the draw ratio was 1.47, and the heater temperature was 170 ° C. The crimp occurrence rate of the false twist textured yarn is 35.
The CV value of 5000 pieces of data measured by a FYL analyzer and digitized in [%] is 0.94 [%], and the maximum value in the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m of the power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis is 17.0 [-. ]Met. A dyed tubular knitted fabric and a dyed fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The dyed woven fabric was more preferable because the dyed woven fabric of Example 1 was improved in softness and water pressure resistance.

【0032】(実施例3)実施例2で得た未延伸マルチ
フィラメントを帝人製機製HTS−1500型3軸外接
式摩擦仮撚機を用い、1段ヒーター延伸同時仮撚した。
仮撚加工速度を600[m/min]、延伸倍率を1.4
7倍とし、ヒーター出口での糸温度を170[℃]にすべ
くヒーター温度を調節した。施撚ディスク材質はポリウ
レタンで、9[mm]厚で58[mm]の直径を持つものを
4枚用い、前後にガイドディスクを入れて1−4−1構
成とした。糸速に対する施撚ディスク周速の比は1.8
倍に設定した。巻き取り前にインターレーサーノズルで
空気交絡処理し、交絡度は65[ケ/m]であった。得ら
れた仮撚加工糸の捲縮発現率は31[%]、FYLアナラ
イザーで測定し、デジタル化した5000個データのC
V値は0.85[%]、フーリエ解析して得たパワースペ
クトルの波長3〜30m内最大値が13.3[-]であっ
た。実施例1、2とほぼ同様に染色筒編地と染色加工織
物を得た。該染色加工織物は実施例2の染色加工織物同
様、好ましく、仮撚加工速度に関し、実施例2に対し優
越した総合的に極めて好ましいものであった。
(Example 3) The unstretched multifilament obtained in Example 2 was subjected to a single-stage heater stretching simultaneous false twist using a HTS-1500 type 3-axis circumscribed friction false twist machine manufactured by Teijin Seiki.
False twisting speed 600 [m / min], draw ratio 1.4
The heater temperature was adjusted to 7 times and the yarn temperature at the heater outlet was set to 170 [° C]. The twisting disc was made of polyurethane, and four twisted discs each having a thickness of 9 [mm] and a diameter of 58 [mm] were used. The ratio of the twisting disk peripheral speed to the yarn speed is 1.8.
Set to double. Air entanglement treatment was performed with an interlacer nozzle before winding, and the degree of entanglement was 65 [ke / m]. The degree of crimp occurrence of the obtained false twisted yarn is 31%, and C of 5000 data digitized by measuring with a FYL analyzer.
The V value was 0.85 [%], and the maximum value in the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m of the power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis was 13.3 [-]. Dyeing cylinder knitted fabrics and dyed fabrics were obtained in substantially the same manner as in Examples 1 and 2. The dye-processed woven fabric was as preferable as the dye-processed woven fabric of Example 2, and was superior to Example 2 in terms of false-twisting speed, and was extremely preferable overall.

【0033】(比較例2)実施例2の溶融紡糸工程に対
して、口金外周面径66[mm]に144[ケ]の吐出孔を
配列した紡糸口金から溶融吐出し、1ケの紡糸口金から
1本の未延伸マルチフィラメントを80[dtex]/1
44[fil]として引き取る他は実施例2の溶融紡糸工
程と同様に未延伸マルチフィラメントを得た。該未延伸
マルチフィラメントのURI値は3.6[%]で、8m程
度波長(糸長)毎の周期性がスペクトログラムに見られ
るものであった。該未延伸マルチフィラメントを実施例
3と同様に延伸同時仮撚した。解撚ゾーンにテンション
メータを入れてADコンバーターでデータをデジタル化
し、パソコンに集積して、パワースペクトルを得、スペ
クトログラムを描かせると、12m程度周期の解撚張力
周期変動が確認された。得られた仮撚加工糸の捲縮発現
率は31[%]、FYLアナライザーで測定し、デジタル
化した5000個データのCV値は2.14[%]、フー
リエ解析して得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30m内
最大値が31.5[-]であった。尚、該パワースペクト
ル最大値を現した波長(糸長)は約12[m]部分であっ
た。得られた仮撚加工糸の染色筒編地は明らかなトラ縞
ではないが、幅を持って濃淡差を感じるもので、染色加
工織物は緯方向に縞っぽさを感じる不均斉で好ましくな
いものであった。
(Comparative Example 2) In the melt spinning process of Example 2, one spinneret was produced by melt-discharging from a spinneret in which 144 [ke] discharge holes were arranged on the outer peripheral surface diameter of 66 [mm]. From
One unstretched multifilament is 80 [dtex] / 1
An unstretched multifilament was obtained in the same manner as in the melt spinning step of Example 2 except that the unstretched multifilament was collected as 44 [fil]. The URI value of the undrawn multifilament was 3.6%, and the periodicity was observed in the spectrogram for each wavelength (thread length) of about 8 m. The unstretched multifilament was simultaneously stretched and false-twisted in the same manner as in Example 3. When a tension meter was put in the untwisting zone, the data was digitized by an AD converter, integrated into a personal computer, a power spectrum was obtained, and a spectrogram was drawn. The crimp occurrence rate of the obtained false twisted yarn is 31 [%], the CV value of 5000 data digitized and measured by FYL analyzer is 2.14 [%], and the power spectrum of Fourier analysis is obtained. The maximum value within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m was 31.5 [-]. The wavelength (thread length) showing the maximum value of the power spectrum was about 12 [m]. The dyed tubular knitted fabric of the obtained false twisted yarn does not have a clear tiger stripe, but it has a width and a difference in light and shade. It was a thing.

【0034】実施例1〜3、比較例1〜2の条件、糸物
性、織物の評価結果を表1に示す。
Table 1 shows conditions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, yarn physical properties, and evaluation results of woven fabrics.

【0035】[0035]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0036】[0036]

【発明の効果】本発明は従来の極細フィラメントから構
成された仮撚加工糸が織編物製品でひどい縞、筋に見え
ない程度の濃淡差は許容範囲として生産されていたのに
対し、繊維軸方向の染色濃度斑の程度及び/又は周期性
を極めて厳しい評価基準に合格させたことによって、織
編物に極めて均斉な染色品位を与えることができる新規
な仮撚加工糸である。スポーツ衣料用途や婦人衣料用途
等の織編物に好適に使用でき、ソフトで美しく均斉な染
色品位が得られる。未延伸マルチフィラメントを摩擦仮
撚施撚体で延伸同時仮撚し、流体交絡処理して仮撚加工
糸を得た場合、後工程での取扱い性に優れた仮撚加工糸
が低コストで得られる。本発明は従来にない新規なもの
である。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION In the present invention, the false twisted yarn composed of the conventional ultrafine filament is produced in the woven and knitted product as a permissible range in contrast to the densities such that the stripes do not look like stripes or stripes, but the fiber axis is produced. It is a novel false twisted yarn that can give a woven and knitted fabric an extremely uniform dyeing quality by passing the degree and / or periodicity of unevenness of dyeing density in the direction in a very strict evaluation standard. It is suitable for use in woven and knitted fabrics for sports clothing and women's clothing, and gives a soft, beautiful and uniform dyeing quality. When unstretched multifilament is drawn and simultaneously false twisted with a friction false twisted twisted body to obtain a false twisted yarn by fluid entanglement, a false twisted yarn excellent in handleability in the subsequent process can be obtained at low cost. To be The present invention is a novel one that has never existed before.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】本発明の仮撚加工糸をFYLアナライザーで測
定しデジタル化したデータをフーリエ解析して得たパワ
ースペクトルの波長3〜30m内最大値を求める際に描
くグラフ(スペクトログラム)の好ましい例を示す。
FIG. 1 is a preferred example of a graph (spectrogram) drawn when a maximum value within a wavelength of 3 to 30 m of a power spectrum obtained by performing Fourier analysis on data obtained by measuring a false twist textured yarn of the present invention with an FYL analyzer and digitizing the data is obtained. Indicates.

【図2】本発明の仮撚加工糸をFYLアナライザーで測
定しデジタル化したデータをフーリエ解析して得たパワ
ースペクトルの波長3〜30m内最大値を求める際に描
くグラフ(スペクトログラム)の好ましくない例を示
す。
FIG. 2 is a preferable graph (spectrogram) drawn when the maximum value within the wavelength range of 3 to 30 m of the power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis of data obtained by measuring the false twisted yarn of the present invention with a FYL analyzer and digitizing it is not preferable. Here is an example:

Claims (6)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントより
なる仮撚加工糸であって、仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラ
メントの単繊維繊度が0.8[dtex]以下であり、F
YLアナライザーで測定しデジタル化した5000個デ
ータのCV値が1.0[%]以下であることを特徴とする
仮撚加工糸。
1. A false twisted yarn comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, wherein the filaments constituting the false twisted yarn have a single fiber fineness of 0.8 [dtex] or less, and
A false twisted yarn, wherein the CV value of 5000 pieces of data measured by a YL analyzer and digitized is 1.0% or less.
【請求項2】熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントより
なる仮撚加工糸であって、仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラ
メントの単繊維繊度が0.8[dtex]以下であり、F
YLアナライザーで測定しデジタル化したデータをフー
リエ解析して得たパワースペクトルの波長3〜30m内
最大値が25[-]以下であることを特徴とする仮撚加工
糸。
2. A false twisted yarn comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, wherein the filaments constituting the false twisted yarn have a single fiber fineness of 0.8 [dtex] or less, and F
A false twist textured yarn having a maximum value within a wavelength of 3 to 30 m of a power spectrum obtained by Fourier analysis of data digitized by a YL analyzer and 25 [-] or less.
【請求項3】仮撚加工糸が請求項1及び請求項2の両方
を満足する仮撚加工糸。
3. A false twisted yarn, wherein the false twisted yarn satisfies both claim 1 and claim 2.
【請求項4】仮撚加工糸が未延伸マルチフィラメントを
摩擦仮撚施撚体で延伸同時仮撚し、流体交絡処理されて
いる請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸。
4. The false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the false twisted yarn is obtained by subjecting an undrawn multifilament to simultaneous draw and false false twisting with a friction false twisted twisted body and performing fluid entanglement treatment.
【請求項5】仮撚加工糸を構成するフィラメントの単繊
維繊度が0.4[dtex]以下である請求項1〜4のい
ずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸。
5. The false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the filaments constituting the false twisted yarn have a single fiber fineness of 0.4 [dtex] or less.
【請求項6】仮撚加工糸がポリエステルである請求項1
〜5のいずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸。
6. The false twisted yarn is polyester.
The false twisted yarn according to any one of 1 to 5.
JP2001335077A 2001-10-31 2001-10-31 False twisted yarn Expired - Fee Related JP4399699B2 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20180045023A (en) * 2015-09-14 2018-05-03 로디아 폴리아미다 이 에스페시아리다데스 에스.에이. Polyamide fibers having improved comfort management ability, a method for producing the same, and articles made therefrom

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2010031446A (en) * 2009-07-10 2010-02-12 Toyobo Co Ltd Method for producing dyed woven and knit fabric

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20180045023A (en) * 2015-09-14 2018-05-03 로디아 폴리아미다 이 에스페시아리다데스 에스.에이. Polyamide fibers having improved comfort management ability, a method for producing the same, and articles made therefrom
KR102471874B1 (en) * 2015-09-14 2022-11-30 로디아 폴리아미다 이 에스페시아리다데스 에스.에이. Polyamide fiber having improved comfort management ability, manufacturing method thereof, and article manufactured therefrom

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