JP2002302866A - Method of producing unevenly stereo-patterned outer cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method of producing three-dimensional stereo-patterned outer cloth by use of thermally shrinkable synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric. SOLUTION: A nonwoven fabric made of synthetic fiber with 20-60% thermal shrinkage at 100 deg.C and a dress fabric with <=10% thermal shrinkage at 100 deg.C are over-wrapped and kilt-sewed in pattern shapes with water-soluble machine sewing thread. Then, kilted fabric is allowed to shrink by 10-50% in one direction, for example, in the longitudinal or in the traverse direction, or biaxially in both directions in the atmosphere of 100-180 deg.C to form three-dimensionally uneven patterns on the dress fabric. In order to fix the shapes on the dress fabric, thermally shrunk fabric is heat-treated at 100-200 deg.C, then soaked in hot water at 60-100 deg.C to dissolve the machine sewing threads thereby separating the objective unevenly patterned outer cloth from the nonwoven fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a dress material having a three-dimensional uneven pattern and excellent clothes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a method of changing the outfit of a dress material, a method of forming various patterns by dyeing, print printing, design sewing machine, or the like has been developed. In addition, a dress material having a three-dimensional uneven pattern is produced. Japanese Patent No. 3049058 describes a method of forming irregularities on a cloth using a heat-shrinkable cloth. However, the obtained cloth is apt to be frayed at the time of sewing, and has a thickness and a thickness. However, there is a problem that the contraction performance in the uniaxial or biaxial directions cannot be freely selected.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to use a heat-shrinkable synthetic fiber non-woven fabric as a shrinkable base material to obtain the size, thickness, basis weight, heat shrinkage, uniaxial direction An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a textured surface material having an excellent outfit in which the shrinkage performance in the axial direction can be freely selected.

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on the above-mentioned problems, and have used a synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric having a heat shrinkability of 20% or more, and have performed a heat shrink processing step and heat fixing. As a result of examining the heat setting process, etc.,
The present inventors have found a production method capable of stably producing a dress material excellent in costumes, and have reached the present invention.

That is, the present invention is as follows. 1. A synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric having a heat shrinkage ratio of 20 to 60% at 100 ° C and a dress material having a heat shrinkage ratio of 10% or less at 100 ° C are overlaid and quilted into a pattern using a water-soluble sewing thread. After sewing, in an atmosphere of 100 to 180 ° C., in a longitudinal direction, a lateral direction in any one uniaxial direction,
~ 50% shrinkage to form a three-dimensional uneven shape on the outer material,
Then, 100 to 200 to fix the shape of the outer material
A method for producing a textured surface material by separating a surface material and a nonwoven fabric by dissolving the sewing thread by immersing in heat water at 60 to 100 ° C. after heat treatment at 60 ° C.

[0006] 2. 2. The method for producing a textured surface material according to the above item 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a polyester long-fiber nonwoven fabric partially thermocompressed. 3. 2. The method for producing a textured surface material according to the above item 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a polyester filament nonwoven fabric obtained by needle punching. 4. 2. The method for producing a textured surface material according to the above item 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a nonwoven fabric obtained by laminating a polyester long fiber nonwoven fabric and a short fiber and performing needle punching.

More specifically, a non-heat-shrinkable outer material and a heat-shrinkable non-woven fabric are quilted with a water-soluble sewing thread into a costume pattern, and then the non-woven fabric is shrunk. Since the outer material does not shrink, it rises upwards and has a three-dimensional structure with a thickness several times higher. In order to fix the three-dimensional unevenness of the outer material, for example, a pressure (decompression) pot (heating and pressurizing with steam, a vacuum pump Heat treatment using dry heat or wet heat using a fuse press, etc. to fix the shape, then dissolve the sewing thread in hot water, and separate the outer material from the nonwoven fabric to make the surface uneven. Patterned fabric is manufactured.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The dress material used in the present invention is a woven or non-woven fabric having a small heat shrinkage of 100% or less, preferably 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, which is excellent in costume, durability, strength and the like. Is preferred. The smaller the lower limit of the heat shrinkage, the more preferable. When the heat shrinkage is 10% or less, a sufficient difference in shrinkage is obtained by effectively utilizing the difference in shrinkage between the outer material and the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric, and the three-dimensional uneven pattern intended by the present invention is formed.

The outer material preferably has a thickness of 0.1 to 1 mm, more preferably 0.2 to 0.6 mm, and preferably has a basis weight of 80 to 300 g / m ² , more preferably 100 to 300 g / m ^2. ２５０250 g / m ² .
The outer material is required to have flexibility that can follow the shrinkage of the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric that is repeatedly shrink-processed, and that the shape is easily fixed by heat treatment after the shrinkage. Therefore,
It is preferable to contain 50% by weight or more of synthetic fibers.
More preferably, the content is 0 to 100 wt%. For example, polyester fibers are preferred in terms of heat treatment processability, and plain weaves such as taffeta, twill weaves, woven fabrics such as satin weaves, or short fibers, ultrafine fibers, and nonwoven fabrics entangled with a columnar flow composed of split fibers are preferred. Used.

The outer material can be used after finishing processing such as dyeing processing, printing processing, glazing processing, softening processing, and resin processing such as a water repellent and an antistatic agent. The synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric used in the present invention has heat shrinkability, and has a heat shrinkage at 100 ° C of 20 to 60%, preferably 25 to 50%. When the heat shrinkage is in this range, sewing can be performed together with the outer material to form an excellent three-dimensional uneven pattern.

The shrinkage performance of the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric shrinks in the vertical and horizontal biaxial directions, or shrinks in one of the vertical and horizontal directions. Further, by providing a difference of 10% or more in the heat shrinkage in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, the shape after shrinkage can be changed. As a synthetic fiber used for the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric, a fiber having a potential shrinkage property is preferable. The potentially shrinkable fiber is a fiber that exhibits shrinkage due to processing such as heating, and examples thereof include polyester fiber, polyester copolymer fiber, polyamide copolymer fiber, and polyolefin copolymer fiber.
In particular, polyester fibers are preferable because they are excellent in processability, can be crystallized by heat treatment, have a secondary transition point of room temperature or higher, and can stably produce a substantially amorphous low-stretched yarn.

For example, in the case of a polyester long-fiber nonwoven fabric having a low degree of stretching, low orientation and low crystallinity by the spunbonding method, the orientation and crystallinity change at a spinning speed of 1600 to 3500 m / min, and the heat shrinkage Is changed in the range of 20 to 60%. Further, as a method of improving the processability, for example, a partial thermocompression bonding is performed at a temperature not lower than the secondary transition temperature to a temperature equal to or lower than the secondary transition temperature + 50 ° C. By performing thermocompression bonding using a method such as that described above, or by entanglement using needle punching or the like, a nonwoven fabric having shrinkage in the biaxial direction can be obtained. Also, as long as the heat shrinkage is not impaired,
For example, laminated with other synthetic fibers in a range of less than 50 wt%,
They can be used in combination.

The synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric which contracts in one of the longitudinal and horizontal directions is partially thermocompression-bonded at a temperature not lower than the secondary transition temperature to a temperature not higher than the secondary transition temperature + 50 ° C., for example. During the heat treatment with a felt calender or the like, a non-woven fabric having heat shrinkability in a uniaxial direction can be obtained by stretching 1.2 to 2.5 times. For example, a synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric having a heat shrinkage of 20 to 50% in one direction and 0 to 10% in another direction is obtained.

The synthetic fiber non-woven fabric used in the present invention can be obtained by using the fibers having the above-described potential shrinkage properties, and combining thermocompression bonding, needle punching, and confounding as necessary. The thermocompression bonding is performed under conditions such that the heat shrinkage does not become less than 20%, for example, in a temperature range from the second transition temperature or higher to a melting point of −50 ° C.
Two-stage crimping with 5-25% partial thermocompression bonding or temporary crimping at a low temperature in the first stage, then crimping at a higher temperature than the first stage in the second stage, and up and down in the second stage This is performed by pressure bonding with a temperature difference.

When the needle punching is applied, a nonwoven fabric using only the synthetic fibers having the potential shrinkage as described above may be used, or a nonwoven fabric obtained by laminating or mixing with other fibers may be used. Also at this time, the heat shrinkage of the nonwoven fabric should be 20 to 60%. In the needle punching, the thickness is large, the flexibility is high, and the three-dimensional uneven pattern at the time of shrinkage tends to become a stable surface material.

The synthetic fiber non-woven fabric only needs to have a shrinking force to shrink the outer material, and preferably has a thickness of 0.05 to 10 mm, more preferably 0.1 to 5 mm, and a basis weight of 30 to 300 g / m ^2. Preferably, more preferably 5
0 to 200 g / m ² . In the manufacturing method of the present invention, the outer material and the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric are overlapped, sewn and integrated. Since the sewing process affects the three-dimensional uneven shape expressed by the shrinking process, it is important to select the stitch pitch, the interval between the patterns, and the like. For example, when the stitch pitch and the interval between the patterns are small, a small uneven pattern is formed. Conversely, when the stitch pitch and the interval between the patterns are large, a large uneven pattern is formed.
Therefore, the stitch pitch and the distance between the patterns are 2 to 20.
mm is preferable, and 4-16 mm is more preferable. Within this range, the formation of the uneven pattern can be stably obtained.

The shape of the sewing process is a geometric pattern such as an ellipse, a circle, a square, a rhombus, a floral pattern, an animal pattern, a design pattern, etc.
It can be selected according to the purpose, such as the costume pattern of the computer sewing machine. The sewing thread used for sewing is water-soluble,
It is preferable that the yarn is dissolved in hot water at 0 to 100 ° C., for example, a polyvinyl alcohol fiber or the like, and the fiber thickness is preferably 20 to 40. Also, the sewing thread is not cut by heat shrinking,
Preferably, it does not stretch and slightly shrinks.

The heat shrinking is performed by sewing the outer material and the synthetic fiber non-woven fabric, and then biaxially or uniaxially by 10 to 5 times.
It is preferable to make it shrink by 0%. When the shrinkage is in this range, the three-dimensional uneven pattern aimed at by the present invention is sufficiently formed, and stable production can be performed at low cost. In the present invention, the heat shrinking is preferably performed by 10 to 50% heat shrinking. For this purpose, it is preferable to use an apparatus or a machine capable of heating the sewn sheet of the outer material and the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric to 100 to 180 ° C. The heat shrinking process is preferably within the shrinkage range of the nonwoven fabric, and is more preferably set to a range that is about 5% smaller than the shrinkage range of the nonwoven fabric, in order to obtain a stable uneven pattern.

As the method of heat shrinking, a heating method having a fixed gap, a heating method in which the width direction or the length direction is regulated, and the like can be selected according to the purpose. The former is a heating plate provided with a gap of 3 to 10 times the thickness of the sewing sheet,
Examples thereof include a fuse press machine, a steam press machine, and a short press machine. The latter is set to a range that is about 5% smaller than the shrinkage range of the nonwoven fabric, and performs shrinkage processing in which the width direction or the length direction is regulated. A pin tenter that can
A clip tenter and the like can be exemplified.

The conditions of the heat shrinking are set such as temperature and time so that the desired shrinkage can be exhibited. For example, the temperature is raised to shorten the time, or the temperature is lowered to increase the time.
80 ° C. is preferred, and more preferably 120 to 160
The temperature and time are preferably 5 to 200 seconds, more preferably 10 to 120 seconds.

Further, for the purpose of obtaining the same pattern on the front and back of the clothes, the left and right, and the like, two sheets can be stacked and several sheets can be stacked for the purpose of improving productivity. In the present invention, after the shrinking process, heat treatment is performed to fix the three-dimensional unevenness of the outer material and improve durability. For the heat treatment, for example, in order to fix the heat without increasing the temperature so as not to impair the design processing of the outer material, an apparatus such as a pressure cooker or an autoclave which can repeatedly perform reduced pressure and pressurized heating steam is used. The conditions of the heat treatment are not particularly limited, and shape stability, heat resistance, washing resistance,
Any condition may be used as long as the shape retention resistance and the like can be improved, and furthermore, the quality such as the printing process and the dyeing process of the outer material is not reduced. For example, a temperature of 100 to 200 ° C., a time of several tens of seconds to several tens of minutes, or a vacuum pump 9
Heat treatment is performed for several minutes to several tens of minutes under reduced pressure of 0 to 98%. The heat treatment efficiency can be further improved by combining or repeating the above conditions.

The method of separating the outer material from the synthetic fiber non-woven fabric is, for example, a method in which hot water of 60 to 100 ° C.
The machine thread is immersed for up to 500 seconds, more preferably 30 to 300 seconds, to dissolve the sewing thread. For example, using a dipping machine, a continuous refining machine, a Wins dyeing machine, or the like, the surface material and the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric are separated by hot water using a batch method, a continuous method, or the like, and then the surface material is dried to obtain a product.

[0023]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, the measuring method, the evaluation method, etc. are as follows. (1) Weight per unit Sample 20 cm x 25 c according to JIS-L-1906
m is cut out, the mass is measured, and the average value is converted to the mass per unit area.

(2) Thickness According to JIS-L-1906, load 2 kPa, 10 k
Measure in Pa. (3) Heat shrinkage rate Measured according to JIS-L-1906. (4) Average fiber diameter A 500-fold magnified photograph is taken with a microscope and expressed as an average of 10 fibers.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 was melt-spun by a known spunbonding method, and the polyester fiber web was spun at a spinning speed of 2,000 m / min by adjusting the air flow rate of a drawing air soccer. Obtained. The fiber web was heated at a temperature of 70 ° C. and a partial compression ratio of 23%.
To obtain a heat-shrinkable synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric. The resulting synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric has a basis weight of 50
g / m ² , thickness 0.16 mm, average fiber diameter 27 μm, 1
The heat shrinkage at 00 ° C. was 53% in length and 46% in width.

A polyethylene terephthalate taffeta woven fabric (having a basis weight of 110 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.27 mm, a heat shrinkage at 100 ° C. of 1% in length and 1% in width) is used as a dress material, Using a water-soluble sewing thread, a lattice pattern having a seam pitch of 2 mm and a side of 6 mm was sewn and integrated. The sewn sheet was subjected to heat shrinking at 170 ° C. for 35 seconds by a fuse press in which the upper and lower heating intervals were set to 10 mm with a spacer. Next, the mixture was treated in a pressure cooker at 97% reduced pressure for 10 minutes, and then heat-fixed by repeating heating for 20 minutes with steam at 105 ° C. for 20 minutes. Thereafter, the fabric was immersed in hot water of 70 ° C. for 30 minutes to dissolve the sewing thread, the outer material and the nonwoven fabric were separated, and the outer material was sufficiently washed and dried to obtain a three-dimensional uneven surface material.

The obtained dress material has a basis weight of 270 g / m ² , a thickness of 3.4 mm (12.6 times), a heat shrinkage of 43% in length and 34% in width, and has washing resistance, heat resistance and shape retention. It was excellent in durability such as properties. [Example 2] Using what was sewn in the same manner as in Example 1, the width direction was 10 ° C at 120 ° C using a pin tenter.
%, 20%, 30%
In the same manner as in Example 1, heat fixing processing, hot water processing, and drying processing were performed to obtain three types of three-dimensional uneven surface materials. Each outer material has a ridge-shaped pattern projecting in the vertical direction, and has a thickness of 1.3 mm, 2.1 mm, 2.8 mm, and a basis weight of 120 mm.
g / m ² , 136 g / m ² , 154 g / m ² , the heat shrinkage is 10%, 20%, 30% uniaxial only in the horizontal direction, washing resistance, heat resistance, shape retention, etc. Had excellent durability.

Example 3 Two sheets of the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric obtained in Example 1 were stacked and then entangled by needle punching (needle: Felt regular No. 36, 80 times / cm ² ) to obtain a nonwoven fabric. Was. The obtained nonwoven fabric has a basis weight of 100 g.
/ M ² , thickness 0.55 mm, heat shrinkage at 100 ° C.
5% and 48% in width.

As a dress material, a blended woven fabric of 30% rayon fiber and 70% polyethylene terephthalate fiber (basis weight 17)
0 g / m ² , a thickness of 0.32 mm, and a thermal shrinkage at 100 ° C. of 1% in length and 1% in width) were used. The outer material and the nonwoven fabric obtained as described above were integrated by sewing a lattice pattern having a seam pitch of 5 mm and a side interval of 15 mm using a water-soluble sewing thread. The sewn sheet was subjected to heat shrinking at 170 ° C. for 40 seconds with a fuse press in which the vertical interval for heating was set to 15 mm by a spacer.
Then, after treatment in a pressure cooker at 95% reduced pressure for 10 minutes, 130
Heating for 30 minutes was repeated twice with steam at ℃, and heat-fixed. Thereafter, the fabric was immersed in hot water at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes to dissolve the sewing thread, the outer material and the nonwoven fabric were separated, and the outer material was sufficiently washed and dried to obtain a three-dimensional uneven surface material.

The obtained dress material has a basis weight of 420 g / m ² , a thickness of 3.1 mm, a heat shrinkage of 40% in length and 31% in width,
Excellent durability such as washing resistance, heat resistance, and shape retention. Example 4 A card web having a fiber length of 51 mm, a fiber diameter of 24 μm, and a basis weight of 80 g / m ² was laminated on the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric obtained in Example 1, and needle punching was performed (needle: Felt regular No. 36, contact depth) 13mm, number of attachments 11
0 times / cm ² ) to obtain a nonwoven fabric. The obtained nonwoven fabric had a basis weight of 130 g / m ² , a thickness of 2.3 mm, and a thickness of 100 mm.
The heat shrinkage at 41 ° C. was 41% in length and 35% in width.

Using the same outer material as in Example 1 and the nonwoven fabric obtained above at a stitch pitch of 5 mm using a water-soluble sewing thread,
A lattice pattern with a side of 20 mm was sewn and integrated. The sewn processing sheet was heated with a fuse press machine in which the upper and lower intervals to be heated were set to 20 mm with a spacer.
A heat shrink process at 50 ° C. for 50 seconds was performed. Then, in a pressure cooker,
After the treatment at 97% reduced pressure for 10 minutes, heating with steam at 105 ° C. for 20 minutes was repeated twice to heat-fix. Then 70 ° C
Was immersed in hot water for 30 minutes to dissolve the sewing thread, separate the outer material and the nonwoven fabric, sufficiently wash the outer material, and then dry to obtain a three-dimensional uneven surface material.

The obtained dress material has a basis weight of 230 g / m ² , a thickness of 2.8 mm, a heat shrinkage of 35% in length and 28% in width,
Excellent durability such as washing resistance, heat resistance, and shape retention.

[0033]

According to the production method of the present invention, the outer shape and the synthetic fiber non-woven fabric are sewn by sewing conditions, pitches, and processing conditions such as heat shrinkage in the vertical and horizontal directions of the shrinkage processing.
Since the shaping shape of the three-dimensional uneven pattern can be changed, it is possible to efficiently produce a three-dimensional uneven surface material having excellent design properties.

The dress material obtained by the production method of the present invention is:
Widely used for applications that require three-dimensional uneven patterns, such as textile fabrics, partially used fabrics, or fabrics used as parts, and bags and packaging materials as partial design members other than textiles It can also be used.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D06J 1/00 D06J 1/00 D06M 11/05 D06M 9/02 C F-term (Reference) 3B154 AA07 AB20 BA12 BA16 BA36 BA39 BB12 BB32 BF01 BF20 DA02 DA13 DA18 4L031 AA02 AA14 AA18 AB21 AB32 AB34 BA08 CA07 4L047 AA12 AA21 AA28 AB02 AB03 BA03 BA06 BA09 CA03 CA04 CB04 CB09 CC01 CC16 DA00

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A pattern obtained by superposing a synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric having a heat shrinkage of 20 to 60% at 100 ° C. and a dress material having a heat shrinkage of 10% or less at 100 ° C. using a water-soluble sewing thread. After sewing the quilt to the shape, under the atmosphere of 100 to 180 ° C,
It is shrunk by 10 to 50% in any one of the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction, or in the longitudinal and transverse biaxial directions, to form a three-dimensional uneven shape on the surface material, and then to fix the shape of the surface material by 10%.
A method for producing a textured surface material in which a heat treatment is performed at a temperature of 0 to 200 ° C., and then the material is immersed in hot water at a temperature of 60 to 100 ° C. to dissolve the sewing thread and separate the surface material and the nonwoven fabric. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a polyester long-fiber nonwoven fabric which is partially thermocompression-bonded. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a polyester long-fiber nonwoven fabric obtained by needle punching. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber nonwoven fabric is a nonwoven fabric obtained by laminating a polyester long-fiber nonwoven fabric and a short fiber and performing needle punching.