JP2002284666A - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide cosmetics containing an ascorbic acid derivative and a dirmis-composing component as the active ingredients which is expected to show a synergistic whitening effect and excellent in safety. SOLUTION: The synergistic whitening effect of the cosmetics can be expected by characteristically combining the ascorbic acid derivative which shows an excellent whitening effect by its reduction of melanin and the like with the dirmis-composing component which is effective against the pigmentation after the rough skin is caused by an inflammation.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention has an excellent skin-beautifying effect on the skin, an effect of enhancing collagen synthesizing ability, and a moisturizing effect. It relates to cosmetics with excellent effects.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art It is thought that pigment melanin is deeply involved in skin darkening. That is, melanin is produced in the skin tissue of the skin under external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays,
Therefore, it is considered that blackening of the skin is promoted, and symptoms such as spots, freckles, and darkness are caused. There are several mechanisms of skin whitening, one of which is proposed to suppress the activation of tyrosinase involved in melanin production.

Conventionally, whitening cosmetics mainly include ascorbic acid,
Glutathione, colloidal sulfur and the like are blended, and such whitening cosmetics are useful for obtaining a cosmetic effect such as prevention of skin darkening, spots and freckles. In addition, skin that is rough due to ultraviolet rays has a barrier function of the skin impaired, and the skin is dry. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the condition of the skin by blending not only the whitening component but also other moisturizing agents and collagen and elastin for the purpose of giving elasticity to the skin. In order to provide elasticity to the skin and keep the skin firm and free of wrinkles, fibroblasts of the dermis are active, and the biosynthesis of collagen fibers and elastic fibers is enhanced, and the water retention action of the connective tissue matrix and It is important. Hitherto, it has been known that ascorbic acid has an effect of increasing collagen synthesis of fibroblasts.

[0004]

However, ascorbic acid or a conventional ascorbic acid derivative is liable to be oxidized by itself, so that it is difficult to expect the effect to be exhibited. I do. Also,
Glutathione and colloidal sulfur have problems in peculiar odor and stability, and hindered commercialization. On the other hand, rough skin caused by inflammation of the skin due to ultraviolet rays or cleaning agents generates inflammatory substances such as histamine and leukotriene in a living body. And these substances activate melanocytes, stains,
Causes black and white. Therefore, the present inventors have used substances called so-called dermis constituents such as collagen, elastin, laminin, fibronectin, and mucopolysaccharide, and applied these to the site inflamed by the influence of ultraviolet rays to remove them from the external environment. Was found to suppress the progress of rough skin. As a result, it is possible to prevent stains and darkness caused by inflammation and to create a moist and beautiful skin.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies in view of the above circumstances. As a result, the combination use of the ascorbic acid derivative shown in the present invention with dermis constituents such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid provides a whitening effect and collagen. The present inventors have found that the synthesizing ability is synergistically improved and that the skin can be kept moist and beautiful, and the present invention has been completed. An object of the present invention is to provide a beautiful skin cosmetic composition having excellent skin safety and whitening effect as compared to a cosmetic composition containing only an ascorbic acid derivative by having an excellent whitening effect, collagen synthesis ability, and moisturizing effect. To provide.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present invention, which achieves the above object, is a skin care cosmetic comprising an ascorbic acid derivative and a dermis constituent. The ascorbic acid derivative used in the present invention has a general formula

Embedded image (Wherein R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms). This ascorbic acid derivative also includes known compounds. Here, “alkyl” in the above substituents means a linear or branched alkyl group. The above-mentioned ascorbic acid derivative used in the present invention is a known compound,
For example, it can be easily manufactured by the manufacturing method described in JP-A-8-134,055.

[0007] These ascorbic acid derivatives represented by the above general formula have a radical scavenging ability and are used as antioxidants. Further, it is advantageous in that it has superior stability as compared with ascorbic acid and conventional ascorbic acid derivatives. In particular, an ascorbic acid derivative having an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms selected from alkyl groups having 1 to 22 carbon atoms represented by R has excellent water solubility and is soluble in fats and oils at a practical concentration. This is suitable for maintaining the stability of cosmetics.

The dermis constituents used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, collagen, elastin, laminin, fibronectin, mucopolysaccharide and the like. Collagen is classified into various types such as soluble collagen / insoluble collagen and types I, II, III and IV, and any of these may be used. Mucopolysaccharides also include hyaluronic acid, dermatan sulfate,
Heparan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate and the like,
It is not limited to this. In addition, the dermis constituent is not limited to a specific animal species such as human, cow, pig, rabbit, rat and the like.

The content of the ascorbic acid derivative in the cosmetic is preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. 0.
If the content is less than 01% by weight, it is difficult to obtain an antioxidant effect.
If the content exceeds 0% by weight, the solubility of the polymer compound is hindered, and therefore it is not preferable. In the present invention, the content of the dermis component in the cosmetic is 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
Is more preferable, and more preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, it is difficult to obtain a moisturizing effect,
If it exceeds 10.0% by weight, it is not preferable from the viewpoint of use as a cosmetic.

The cosmetics of the present invention include, in addition to the above essential components, aqueous components, oily components, plant extracts, animal extracts, powders, surfactants, oils, and the like used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, and pharmaceuticals. An alcohol, a pH adjuster, a preservative, an antioxidant, a thickener, a dye, a fragrance, and the like can be appropriately blended as needed within a range that achieves the object of the present invention. As the dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention, lotions, emulsions, creams,
Various dosage forms such as packs, powders, sprays, ointments, dispersions, and detergents can be used. For example, in the case of latex,
It can be produced by a usual method of emulsifying and dispersing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, each of which is heated and dissolved, and cooling.

[0011]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, a test example relating to the skin effect by the ascorbic acid derivative according to the present invention and the constituent components of the dermis will be shown, and examples of prescriptions applied to cosmetics using the material will be described. Needless to say, it is not limited to the example. <Pharmacological test example 1> Collagen by human dermal fibroblasts for the purpose of more specifically explaining that the cosmetic of the present invention exhibiting an excellent whitening effect can be obtained by blending an ascorbic acid derivative and a dermis constituent component. The effect on the synthesis ability will be described. Normal human skin fibroblast HS
-K was pre-cultured in Hams F-12 medium containing 15% fetal calf serum until it became confluent. The cells were replaced with a serum-free medium (F-GH), and a test substance was added thereto and cultured for 24 hours. After completion of the culture, the medium was removed and the amount of intracellular collagen was measured. The amount of collagen refers to the amount of hydroxyproline, an amino acid characteristic of collagen,
The determination was performed by chloramine T oxidized p-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde colorimetric method. Table 1 shows the test results.

[0012]

[Table 1] As is clear from Table 1, the addition of 3-O-ethylascorbic acid, which is one of the components of the present invention, slightly increases collagen synthesis in fibroblasts. Synergistic enhancement of collagen synthesis was observed. This effect was hardly observed in the case of using the dermis component alone.

[Example 1] Formulation example of cosmetics containing ascorbic acid derivative and dermis constituents (1) Lotion by weight a) Collagen extract ... 2.0 b) 3-O-ethylascorbic acid 2.0 c) glycerin 5.0 d) Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (20E.0.0) 1.0 e) Ethanol 6.0 f) Fragrance ... g ) Preservatives and antioxidants ··· Appropriate amount h) Purified water ·····・ ・ ・ ・ Remainder Total 1 00.0 Production methods a) to h) are mixed and uniformly dissolved. (2) Emulsion weight% a) Beeswax 0.5 b) Vaseline 2.0 c) Squalane 8. 0 d) sorbitan sesquioleate 0.8 e) polyoxyethylene oleyl ether (20E.0.) 1.2 f) Elastin 2.0 g) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0 h) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 i) Potassium hydroxide ... 0.1 j) Purified water ········· Remaining k) Preservatives and antioxidants ··········· ······ Appropriate amount 1) 3-O-ethylascorbic acid ····· 2.0 m) Ethanol ... 7.0 Total 100.0 Manufacturing method a) to e) are heated and dissolved, and kept at 80 ° C.
g) to l) are dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C.
In addition to e), emulsify and cool to 50 ° C. while stirring. At 40 ° C add f), m) and cool to 37 ° C. (3) Cosmetic cream weight% a) Beeswax 2.0 b) Stearyl alcohol 5.0 c) Stearic acid 8.0 d) Squalane 10.0 e) Self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate 3 0.0 f) Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (20E.0.0) ... 1.0 g) Collagen extract ... 2.0 h) hyaluronic acid 2.0 i) elastin ... 2.0 j 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 k) Potassium hydroxide・ ・ ・ ・ 0.3 l) Preservative / Antioxidant ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Suitable amount m) 3-O-ethylascorbic acid ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・2.0 n) Purified water ... 100.0 Manufacturing method a) to f) are dissolved by heating and kept at 80 ° C.
h) to n) are heated and dissolved, kept at 80 ° C., and a) to
Add emulsification to f), stir to 40 ° C, add g) and cool. (4) Packing agent weight% a) Hyaluronic acid 2.0 b) Vinyl acetate resin emulsion ... 15.0 c) Polyvinyl alcohol ... 10.0 d) Olive oil ... 3.0 e) 3-O-stearyl ascorbic acid 2.0 f) glycerin 5.0 g) Titanium oxide 8.0 h) Kaolin 7.0 i) Ethanol・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ 8.0 j) Fragrance・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Appropriate amount k) Preservative / antioxidant ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・······ Appropriate amount 1) Purified water ······ Remaining total 100.0 Production method a) To l), and stir, disperse, and homogenize well.

<Stability Test> The cosmetics (lotion, milky lotion, cream, pack) shown in Example 1 were at a temperature of 40 ° C.
After 3 months, no formation of coloring, unpleasant odor, precipitation, etc. was observed, and the compounded ascorbic acid derivative was stable.

[0013]

Example 2 <Usage effect test> An effect test was carried out on a whitening effect and a moisturizing effect of the cosmetic of the present invention by a use test. The use test was performed by applying test cosmetics to the face after washing the face twice a day and in the morning twice a day for three months, with 20 women aged 30 to 50 as panelists. The test cosmetic uses the cosmetic cream of Example 1,
The cream was obtained by replacing the dermis constituents with the amounts of the test examples in Table 2. Tables 3 and 4 show the test results. The evaluation criteria were evaluated according to the following criteria. <Evaluation criteria for whitening effect> ・ Effectiveness ・ ・ ・ Stains and freckles are no longer noticeable.・ Slightly effective ... Stains and freckles are less noticeable.・ Invalid ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ Do not change. <Moisturizing effect average level> ・ Effective ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ The skin is moist.・ Slightly effective ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ The feeling of swelling is reduced.・ Invalid ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ ・ No change.

[0014]

[Table 2]

[0015]

[Table 3]

[0016]

[Table 4]

As is clear from the results shown in Tables 3 and 4, the cosmetic of Test Example 1 has a synergistic effect by using an ascorbic acid derivative and a dermis component in combination, and has an effect on the skin whitening effect and moisturizing effect. It has been found to be effective.

[0018]

As described in detail above, the cosmetic of the present invention comprises:
It has excellent whitening effect, so the skin becomes black due to sunburn,
It can be widely applied for prevention and improvement of spots and freckles. In addition, it has the effect of enhancing the ability of skin cells to synthesize collagen, and is therefore useful for preventing and improving skin wrinkles and lumps. Further, in addition to the above effects, the cosmetic of the present invention,
High safety and safe to use.

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Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A compound of the general formula (Wherein R is an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms). A cosmetic comprising a ascorbic acid derivative represented by the following formula: and a dermis component. 2. A compound according to claim 1, wherein R is an ethyl group (C ₂ H ₅ ).
A cosmetic comprising O-ethylascorbic acid and a dermis constituent. 3. A cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the dermis constituent is collagen, elastin, or mucopolysaccharide.