JP2002069773A - Wrinkling-processed yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To solve the problem of quality, lack of shape stability and bulkiness, etc., of two-dimensional wrinkle or crimp of a zigzag folded structure imparted by the heat and pressure in a stuffing box to a string-like or tape-like thermoplastic fabric or yarn, and caused by unevenness of heat and pressure in the stuffing box, by a conventional pushing-in method. SOLUTION: This method for producing the wrinkling processed yarn comprises allowing a hollow cylindrical fabric into which a metallic introducing core connected to a metallic introducing widening spherical head is inserted, to pass in a noncontact hollow heating tube mounted between two pairs of rollers with grooves to stably heat-set bellows-like staying wrinkles caused by the difference of surface speeds of the two pair of the rollers as a means for providing three-dimensional bulkiness while keeping the hollowing structure by using the hollow cylindrical fabric obtained from a thermoplastic synthetic fiber as a base material, and uniformly and stably imparting the three- dimensional folded wrinkles in concentric bellows-shape along the hollow center line thereto as shown in fig. 1.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a wrinkled yarn obtained by imparting three-dimensional wrinkles to a hollow tubular textile string made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber as a base material, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Generally, two-dimensional wrinkles or crimps of a string-shaped or tape-shaped thermoplastic fabric or yarn having a zigzag bent structure perpendicular to the longitudinal direction due to hot pressure in a stuffing box by a pushing method. Is known. However, since the heat pressure in the box becomes uneven in the methods known so far, there is a great problem in the stability and uniformity of wrinkles or crimps in which fluctuation between weights in the weight is remarkably given. I was

[0003] In addition, since the processed yarn produced by such a conventional method is wrinkled or crimped with a two-dimensional bent structure, it is poor in bulkiness compared to this method and untwisted twist is mixed into the product. There was a quality defect that was more conspicuous as a flaw defect that was obvious at a glance compared to other normal parts.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the problems of wrinkling or crimping by the indentation method described above, and is excellent in uniformity of wrinkles and stability of memory fixation. It is also an object of the present invention to provide a garment product having excellent fitness because a cheese dyeing method having a bulky and lightweight effect and a small residual boiling water shrinkage ratio is possible by imparting three-dimensional wrinkles and having appropriate wrinkle extensibility. .

[0005]

The present inventor uses a hollow cylindrical fabric (Lillian cylindrical woven string, cylindrical woven fabric) based on a thermoplastic synthetic fiber in order to improve various problems in the conventional method. Focusing on stably and economically performing three-dimensionally uniform wrinkling at right angles to the hollow core, a manufacturing technique for continuously processing individual weights was established. In the present invention, the processing base material is composed of a yarn containing at least 15% of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber or a synthetic film, and in the case of Lilian knitting as a means for forming a hollow cylindrical string, the diameter is 5 mmφ.
6 to 30 knitting needles are arranged in a kettle, and the width of the cylindrical knitted fabric is about 2 to 50 mm. When using woven fabric, the fabric is as thin as possible, such as organdy, taffeta, or georgette. A hollow cylindrical cord obtained by heat-sealing or sewing the end face in a bag shape with a width of 2 to 50 mm may be adopted. Further, in the present invention, in order to maintain the rigidity and uniformity of wrinkle fixing during and after wrinkle processing and to equalize the width as a predetermined wrinkle-processed yarn, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the used raw yarn is 20%. % Is preferably used.

The manufacturing philosophy that forms the basis of this processing method is to use a hollow cylindrical fabric made of the above-described yarn base material and to form a concentric circular lantern-like bent wrinkle along the hollow core line in the longitudinal direction. In order to ensure uniformity and unique bulkiness, insert a metal widening spherical head and a circular metal induction core connected to it into the hollow part of the hollow tubular fabric string to heat-fix it. It is sandwiched between a pair of grooved feed rollers smaller than the diameter of the sphere, and the guide core is passed through a hollow heating tube provided immediately below the groove core of the grooved feed roller pair, and guided to a delivery roller pair located below the hollow heating tube. The wrinkle-processed yarn released from the metal guide core is wound in a cheese form by the winding device, but the biggest eye is that it is an individual weight processing, and the metal guide core is used to form three-dimensional wrinkles. Feed the inserted hollow cylindrical textile string In a method for producing a robust and uniformity stereoscopic wrinkles using a roller surface speed difference delivery and over the surface speed caused the described bending staying in a state of non-contact with a hollow heating tube. In the present invention, it is preferable that the above-mentioned feed roller pair is formed with a groove as in the case of the feed roller pair in order to form a three-dimensional wrinkle. It is possible to produce a wrinkled yarn having a flat shape and a flat end face. In this case, the material of the delivery roller is suitably a synthetic rubber having a low hardness. Also, the length of the metal guide core must be at least longer than the length between the feed roller and the nip point and the feed roller and the nip point. The diameter of the hollow heating tube must be carefully and appropriately selected and determined so that the bent wrinkles of the hollow tubular fabric string used for wrinkle processing do not contact the inner wall of the hollow heating tube. The heating method may be selected as appropriate, such as electric heating, dielectric heating, and dow sum heating, but keeping temperature control within ± 1.5 ° C. with respect to a predetermined temperature is a point of suppressing quality fluctuation.

[0007] Further, as a means for enhancing the commercial value such as the design effect and the diversification of the feeling of the clothing product planned and manufactured by the wrinkled yarn produced by the production method of the present invention, the feed rate (feed roller surface) is used. Not only the speed / feed roller surface speed x 100% = feed rate) and the setting temperature of the hollow heating tube, but also the groove shape given to the feed roller and the feed roller and the cross-sectional change of the metal induction core. In addition, it is relatively easy to obtain uneven wrinkles in the longitudinal direction due to a bending pressure in the hollow heating tube, a difference in residence time, and the like generated by driving the delivery roller.

In addition, when the wrinkled yarn produced by the production method of the present invention is subjected to a pre-dying process and supplied to a garment product, it is preferable to regulate the residual boiling water shrinkage ratio, particularly in the cheese dyeing process. 1. From the viewpoint of stabilizing the cheese winding density and preventing dye spots, the shrinkage rate of residual boiling water is set to 2.
It is important to set the residence time in the hollow heating tube, the heating temperature, and the feed rate in order to regulate within the range of 0 to 10.0%.

[0009] The three-dimensional wrinkled yarn obtained by such a production method of the present invention is completely different from a wrinkled yarn produced by a conventional fabric or a secondary product, and is used as a wrinkled yarn in the existing textile field. It is possible to enter into the flat knitting field and handicraft hand knitting field, as well as the plucking of knives. As a result, a revolutionary differentiating material has been completed that enables the production of clothing products that have excellent physical fitness when worn while maintaining the dimensional stability of the clothing products.

[0010]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS First, a wrinkled yarn according to the present invention will be described. As a representative example, a wool-processed yarn obtained by applying a Lilian braid as a hollow tubular fabric braid made of a nylon split yarn to the manufacturing method according to the present invention is a concentric bent with the hollow core of the Lilian braid being a core. The bellows-like three-dimensional wrinkles are characterized in that they are stacked in the longitudinal direction of the processed yarn.

FIG. 1 is a view showing the appearance and structure of the above-mentioned representative example. The bellows-like uneven wrinkles are formed at a substantially constant pitch with respect to the hollow core wire (b) of the Lilian braid (a). The convex part (c) is exposed to the heat radiated from the inner wall of the hollow heating tube at a high temperature for a relatively long time due to the short distance from the inner wall, but the concave part (d) near the hollow core is formed. Since the meshes pass through a relatively low-temperature atmosphere, they cause a slight thermal deformation difference in the stitch loop, thereby producing an effect of further amplifying three-dimensional wrinkles. Therefore, it is considered that the wrinkled yarn according to the present invention has higher heat-fixing property on the convex-folded side than on the concave-folded side and greatly contributes to maintaining the wrinkle robustness.
(See Fig. 1)

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a three-dimensional wrinkled yarn obtained in a nip state in which both a feed roller pair and a feed roller pair are grooved in the above-described manufacturing method. The roller pair shows the appearance and structure of the wrinkled yarn when the cross-sectional shape of the metal induction core is a circular cross section using a grooved roller, but both end faces (e) have flat uneven wrinkles, and Lillian The three-dimensional shaping effect is such that the circular cross-sectional shape (f) of the metal guide core inserted into the hollow core portion of the braided fabric is raised as it is. (See Fig. 2)

In the present invention, the wrinkle-processed yarn finally obtained has a wrinkle elongation ratio of 100 to 300% as a physical property in order to secure the passage stability and the dimensional stability in the secondary product manufacturing process. It is necessary to keep the shrinkage ratio of residual boiling water in the range of 2.0 to 10.0% in order to apply it to the yarn dyed by the cheese dyeing method which is desirable and economical.
In addition, in order to increase the wrinkle fastness as a wrinkled yarn, as a result of various trial production evaluations, the thermoplastic synthetic fiber or the synthetic film must be a hollow cylindrical fabric string containing 15% or more by weight in the production method according to the present invention. It turned out that satisfactory wrinkle fastness was not obtained.

Next, the manufacturing philosophy underlying the description of the manufacturing method of the present invention for manufacturing wrinkled yarn having the above-described appearance and structure is as described in the preceding paragraph (0006) in detail. Insert a metal guide core connected to the metal wide spherical head located in the roller indirect line direction into the hollow portion of the hollow annular fabric cord to regulate not to contact the inner wall of the hollow heating tube placed between the rollers and It is characterized in that the wrinkles are retained and formed and heated and fixed. still,
The metal expanding spherical head is connected to the guiding core so that the metal guiding core always stays in a fixed position and does not fall off even if the hollow tubular textile string is nipped by the feed roller feed roller and moves sequentially. Is arranged above the grooved feed roller to perform an important function of expanding the hollow tubular textile string to a certain width and assisting smooth nip movement.

FIG. 3 is a schematic perspective view of a processing machine used in the method for producing wrinkled yarn according to the present invention. Reference numeral 1 in FIG. 3 denotes a cheese obtained by winding a hollow tubular fabric string serving as a base material of wrinkled yarn. It is intercepted so that untwisting does not enter, and the metal guiding core (3) connected to the metal wide spherical head (2) is placed with the spherical head facing upward in the hollow portion of the hollow tubular textile string (1). And then nip so that the spherical head rides on the groove portion of the grooved feed roller pair (4), and then insert it into the hollow heating tube (5) to feed out the lower part of the metal induction core and make the roller pair (6). The wrinkled yarn, which is inserted into the groove and released from the guide core immediately below the groove, is wound up by the cheese winding device (8) via the traverse grooved drum (7).

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a metal induction core forming the basis of the present invention. A metal guide core (3) is connected to the metal wide spherical head (2), and its length is determined by the distance between the nip point of the feed roller pair and the nip point of the feed roller pair shown in FIG. It is necessary to select a material that is longer than L), is difficult to be thermally deformed, and does not easily have surface flaws.

A description will now be given of the processing proper region and the abnormal phenomenon outside the region in the manufacturing method of the present invention. 1. When using a Lilian braid as a processing base material The optimum conditions must be appropriately determined according to the type of thermoplastic synthetic fiber to be applied, but a Lilian knitting machine adapted to the apparent fineness of the final wrinkled yarn according to the clothing product plan to be applied It is necessary to select the hook diameter and the number of needles. In order to secure a clear hollow cylindrical shape, it is practically effective to arrange a minimum of 4 knitting needles and a maximum of 30 knitting needles on the outer circumference with a minimum diameter of 3 mm and a maximum diameter of 15 mm. In the case of a small number, the manufacturing method according to the present invention makes it difficult to manufacture a metal wide spherical head and increases the loss due to excessive yarn breakage during processing, lowers productivity, etc. from the viewpoint of the three-dimensional wrinkle effect. Problem still remains. If the number exceeds 30, the diameter of the hollow heating pipe must be large, and the temperature distribution in the pipe increases, resulting in a processed yarn that is liable to cause a change in dyeing properties at the peaks and valleys of bent wrinkles. In general, the feed rate is appropriate in the range of 160 to 320%, and when it is lower than the lower limit, it becomes a very sweet wrinkled yarn, and the wrinkle elongation is 100% or less, and the final clothing product lacks a differentiated appearance effect. If the upper limit is exceeded, the bent structure in the hollow heating tube becomes dense, the elongation ratio of wrinkles exceeds 300%, and it is very difficult to control the dimensions in the production process of the final clothing product, and the dimensions of the clothing product are easily fluctuated. . It is important to set the temperature in the hollow heating tube at a temperature lower than the thermal melting point of the synthetic fiber to be applied. If the temperature is set to a value higher than the thermal melting point, threading through the hollow heating tube will result in contact with the wall surface during threading and melting will result in fouling of the tube inner wall surface. Since the residence time in the tube must be lengthened and productivity is significantly affected, it is necessary to select a high temperature near the thermal melting point. The nature of the wrinkles also differs greatly from the relationship between the diameter of the metal wide spherical head inserted into the hollow portion of the Lillian braid and the diameter of the metal guiding core connected thereto. Generally, a difference in wrinkle properties having a tendency as shown in Table 1 was recognized in relation to the inner diameter of the Lilian braid.

[Table 1] 2. When a hollow textile string is used as a processing base material As in the case of the above-mentioned Lillian braid, practically two layers of coarse fabric such as thin fabric or organza are overlapped so that the width becomes 2 to 50 mm, and both ends are cut by heat fusion. A hollow fabric cord with a hollow structure is applied, but generally, the diameter of the metal widened spherical head is reduced to about 1/2 from the diameter of the hollow fabric, and the diameter of the induction core is also reduced to 1/2 or less of the spherical head system. Is desirable. This is because, if each diameter is larger than that, there is a risk that the heat-sealed portion at the end face of the hollow fabric may burst due to contact frictional resistance. Also, from the same viewpoint, it is preferable to minimize the increase of the bending pressure due to the excessive overfeed ratio setting. In addition, from the viewpoint of adaptability of final clothing product planning and wrinkle effect value, it is judged from the result of trial production that the adoption of coarse-density thin fabric is indispensable.

[0018]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples.
The measuring method in the following example is as follows. (1) Boiling water shrinkage rate is JIS L1013, 7.15 Hot water shrinkage rate A method (2) Wrinkle elongation rate is measured by the following in-house measurement method.

[0019]

Example 1 Using a manufacturing apparatus having the structure shown in FIG. 3, wrinkling was performed under the following applicable substrate and processing conditions to obtain a processed yarn of the present invention. The applicable substrate is 1 of 6 nylon split yarn 30D / 1.
00% is a Lillian knitting diameter 5 mmφ × 20 needles, and the hollow cylindrical fabric width is set to 5 mm. The processing conditions are as follows:
0m / min and over feed rate 200% (use 1mm width grooved roller). The heater temperature is 165
° C, metal wide spherical head diameter 3mmφ, metal induction core system ×
Length 1mmφ × 40cmL Circular cross section. The properties of the textured yarn are 5 mm width, 7.5% boiling water shrinkage, 210% wrinkle elongation,
As a result, a textured yarn having continuous three-dimensional wrinkles in the lengthwise direction of the textured yarn, excellent in sharpness and lightness, and having a unique appearance change was obtained.

[0020]

Example 2 Wrinkling was performed under the following applicable substrate and processing conditions to obtain a processed yarn of the present invention. The applicable base material is rayon filament 100D / 24F and polyester filament 20D / 8F, both of which are 120T /
The M and S twisted yarns are made into Lillian knits and have a diameter of 5 mm x 6
With this needle, the width of the hollow annular fabric is set to 5 mm. Processing conditions were as follows: processing speed 8 m / min, overfeed rate 320% (2 mm
Roller with width groove), heater temperature 230 ° C, metal wide spherical head diameter 4mmφ, metal induction core diameter x length 1mmφ
× 40cmL circular fault. The properties of the processed yarn are a width of 5 mm, a boiling water shrinkage of 7.5%, and a wrinkle elongation of 300%. As a result, a wrinkled yarn in which fine loops are mixed on the surface was obtained in synergy with the effect of the difference in the heat shrinkage between rayon and polyester fiber.

[0021]

Example 3 Wrinkling was carried out under the following applicable substrate and processing conditions to obtain a processed yarn of the present invention. The applicable substrate is warp polyester 20D / 16F × warp polyester 20D / 16
F, the fineness of the fabric is 200 / in × 200 / in, the fabric structure is plain weave, and the width of the hollow tubular fabric is 20 mm (heat fusion at the end face). The processing conditions were as follows: processing speed 6m / min, overfeed rate 180% (using a roller with a 10mm width groove), heater temperature 235 ° C, metal wide spherical head diameter 15mmφ, metal induction core diameter × length 3mmφ × 40cm circle. Make a cross section. The properties of the processed yarn are as follows: width 20 mm, boiling water shrinkage 3%, wrinkle elongation 15
5%. As a result, a processed yarn having a change in appearance and a differentiated feeling was obtained by a synergistic effect of a sharp feeling effect of the heat-sealed portion of the end face and a sharp bent wrinkle effect.

[0022]

The effects obtained by the representative wrinkled yarn among the inventions disclosed in the present application are generally listed as follows. That is, the present invention provides a wrinkle processing method which solves the various problems of wrinkle processing by the conventional indentation method, and provides quality control stability and a clear differentiating effect. Since it is individual weight processing, it is excellent in processing management and productivity. 2. Since the metal-made wide spherical head and the metal guide core connected to it are inserted into the hollow part of the applicable base material, three-dimensional bending can be regulated, and it does not contact the inner wall of the hollow heating tube. I can do things. As a result, it was possible to perform a three-dimensional bellows structure wrinkle processing that had not been achieved until now. 3. By the above-mentioned three-dimensional wrinkle effect, in the clothing product planning and product planning such as light weight effect, appearance change, moderate elasticity retention,
High added value could be given. 4. It could be used for new development not only in the conventional fabric manufacturing field but also in the horizontal knitting and handicraft hand knitting fields. A method for producing a three-dimensional wrinkled yarn having excellent characteristics as described above was established.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged view showing the appearance and structure of a wrinkled yarn obtained when an example of a wrinkled yarn according to the present invention is formed with grooves on both a feed roller pair and a feed roller pair.

FIG. 2 is an enlarged view showing the appearance and structure of a wrinkled yarn obtained by using a wrinkled yarn obtained in the present invention and a feed roller pair having a groove and a feed roller pair using a flat grooveless surface roller. is there.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a processing machine used in the method for producing a three-dimensional wrinkled yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged view showing a metal wide spherical head which forms the basis of the present invention and a metal guide core connected thereto.

[Explanation of symbols]

 a. Lillian braid b. Hollow core wire c. Wrinkle protrusion d. Wrinkle recess e. Flat wrinkle end face f. Hollow circular cross-sectional shape 1. Hollow cylindrical fabric cheese forming a processing base material Metal wide spherical head ３． Metal induction core 4. 4. Feed roller pair with groove Hollow heating tube 6. 6. Feed roller pair with groove 7. Traverse grooved drum Cheese winding device

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D04B 1/22 D04B 1/22 21/20 21/20 A D04C 1/12 D04C 1/12 F term (reference) 4L002 AA05 AA06 AA07 AB02 AC06 EA00 FA01 FA09 4L036 MA04 MA05 MA06 MA33 MA34 MA37 MA39 PA18 PA21 PA36 PA39 PA45 PA46 RA03 RA27 UA01 UA25 4L046 AA05 AD01 BA07 4L048 AA13 AA20 AA24 AB07 AB29 BB04

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A yarn comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber or film containing at least 15% or more and having a diameter of 2.0 to 5%.
The hollow core of a 0 mm hollow cylindrical fabric (Lillian or cylindrical woven fabric, cylindrical braid) is concentrically bent at almost right angles to the hollow core of the cord-like object, and has a three-dimensional bellows structure over the entire length of the tubular fabric. Wrinkled yarn characterized by the following facts. 2. The processed yarn has a residual boiling water shrinkage of 2.0-1.
The wrinkled yarn according to claim 1, which has physical properties of 0.0% wrinkle elongation of 100 to 300%. 3. A yarn comprising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber or a film containing at least 15% or more of a film having a diameter of 2.0 to 5%.
0 mm hollow cylindrical fabric (Lilian or cylindrical woven fabric, cylindrical braided object is passed through a metal guide core with a diameter smaller than the spherical diameter connected to a metal wide spherical head, and then the metal guide core is expanded. A non-contact type hollow heating tube provided at the lower part of a pair of grooved feed rollers that does not allow the spherical head to fall, and a hollow tube generated between the feed roller surface speed and the feed roller surface speed by passing between the feed roller pair A method for producing a wrinkled yarn, comprising imparting a bellows-like wrinkle in a perpendicular direction to a longitudinal hollow core of a hollow cylindrical fabric by staying and bending in a heater and heating and fixing the same. 4. An intermittent drive of a feed roller or a feed roller, a deformation of a cross section or a longitudinal direction of an induction iron core, and a feed to change a design value or a product effect of the wrinkled yarn produced according to claim 3. A method for producing wrinkled yarn, characterized in that the shape of a groove applied to a pair of rollers is changed, and further, the feeling, the dyeability, etc., are changed by changing the heating temperature.