JP2001342107A - Cosmetic formulated with oily base and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic giving comfortable feeling to the skin and free from disagreeable smell. SOLUTION: An oil and fat and/or a wax ester is subjected to alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst and the obtained composition is used as an essential component of the objective cosmetic.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a composition obtained by alcoholysis of fats and oils and / or wax esters as an oily base for cosmetics, which has a good feel and no unpleasant odor. And cosmetics having excellent oxidation stability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The role of an oily base compounded in cosmetics is great. The quality required of this oil-based base is that it has high safety such as not irritating the skin, does not interfere with skin respiration, does not interfere with skin moisture permeability, does not inhibit skin physiology, and feels to the skin It has good usability such as good elongation and good compatibility with other raw materials,
It is odorless, colorless and has high storage stability.

Oils and fats have been widely used as oily bases used in cosmetics since ancient times. Avocado oil, almond oil, hemp oil, olive oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil , Persic oil, palm (kernel) oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, cottonseed oil, macadamia nut oil, meadowfoam oil, coconut oil, rosehip oil, evening primrose oil, wheat germ oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, sasanqua Vegetable oils such as oil and animal oils such as beef tallow, horse oil, mink oil, egg yolk oil, turtle oil, salmon oil, sardine oil and tuna oil have been used.

[0004] In cosmetics, wax esters have been widely used since ancient times, and in emulsification systems, they are used in lipsticks for the purpose of stabilizing the emulsion, improving the usability, and adjusting the viscosity, and as a solidifying agent and brightener. It is used in shampoos and rinses for the purpose of improving the conditioning effect of hair and imparting gloss. Examples of such wax esters include jojoba oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, shellac wax, lanolin, orange roughy oil, beeswax, and whale wax. Further, ester oils of fatty acids and alcohols constituting the fats and oils and wax esters as described above are often used as an oily base for cosmetics.

However, when the animal and vegetable oils and / or wax esters described above and esters of fatty acids constituting these with alcohols are added to cosmetics, incompatibility with skin, unsatisfactory feeling in use, and feeling of touch are not obtained. Badness, poor growth, etc.
Various phenomena unfavorable for use were observed, and not necessarily a satisfactory oil phase base, but an ideal oil phase raw material for cosmetics was demanded.

[0006]

In view of the above situation, an oily base excellent in safety, usability, and quality stability has been found. It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic which is excellent in skin affinity, has affinity for the skin, and imparts smoothness to the skin.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides an oil and / or fat and / or
Alternatively, the present invention relates to a cosmetic obtained by blending, as an essential component, a composition obtained by subjecting a wax ester to an alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst.

In the present invention, a mixture of one or more fats and oils selected from vegetable oils and animal oils is suitably used as the fats and oils.

The vegetable oils used in the present invention include avocado oil, almond oil, hemp oil, olive oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, persic oil, palm (kernel) oil, castor oil Examples include oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, cottonseed oil, macadamia nut oil, meadowfoam oil, coconut oil, rosehip oil, evening primrose oil, wheat germ oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, sasanqua oil and the like. Particularly preferably, olive oil and wheat germ oil are used.

Examples of the animal oil used in the present invention include beef tallow, horse oil, mink oil, egg yolk oil, turtle oil, salmon oil, sardine oil, tuna oil and the like.

The wax ester used in the present invention includes jojoba oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax,
Rice bran wax, shellac wax, lanolin, orange roughy oil, beeswax, whale wax and the like are exemplified.

The fats and oils and wax esters used in the present invention may be purified or unpurified. Even when an unrefined oily substance is used, it is purified in the purification step after the alcoholysis reaction, and there is no problem. The fats and oils and wax esters may be hydrogenated before alcoholysis. The hydrogenation of fats and oils and wax esters may be performed by a method conventionally known to those skilled in the art.

In the present invention, the oil and / or wax ester is subjected to an alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst. As the alcohol, C1 to C20 alkanol, C3 to C20 alkenol, or C
C3-C8 optionally having 1 to C8 alkyl substituents
20 branched alcohols are exemplified. Specifically, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, iso-butanol, sec-butanol,
tert-butanol, pentanol-1, pentanol-
2, pentanol-3, 2-methylbutanol-1, 2-
Methylbutanol-2,2-methylbutanol-3,2-
Methylbutanol-4, dimethylpropanol, hexanol-1, hexanol-2, heptanol-1, heptanol-2, octanol-1, octanol-2,4-
Ethylhexanol-1, 2-ethylhexanol-1,
Nonanol-1, Nonanol-2, Nonanol-3, Decanol-1, Decanol-2, Undecanol-1, Undecanol-2, Dodecanol-1, Dodecanol-2,
Tridecanol-1, tridecanol-2, tetradecanol-1, tetradecanol-2, pentadecanol-
1, pentadecanol-2, hexadecanol-1, hexadecanol-2, heptadecanol-1, heptadecanol-2, octadecanol-1, octadecanol-
2, nonadecanol-1, nonadecanol-2, icosanol-1, icosanol-2, allyl alcohol, crotyl alcohol, 2-butenol-1, 2-pentenol-1, 3-hexenol-1, 2-heptenol-1, 1,
0-undecenol-1, 11-dodecenol-1,1
2-Tridecenol-1, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and the like are preferably used.

Examples of the catalyst used for the alcoholysis reaction include lipase, Lewis acids, alkali bases, alkali metal alcoholates and alkali metals, or strong acids. In particular, a catalyst selected from the group consisting of sodium carbonate, sodium methylate, sodium metal and toluene-4-sulfonic acid is preferably used.

The alcoholysis reaction may be carried out according to a conventionally known method. For example, an alcohol and a catalyst may be added to the fat or oil and / or wax ester, and the mixture may be stirred under an inert atmosphere such as a nitrogen atmosphere at a temperature of about 40 ° C. to about 220 ° C. for about 0.5 to 10 hours. After completion of the reaction, the catalyst is removed, the residual alcohol is removed, and then, if necessary, decolorization and deodorization.

The removal of the catalyst may be performed by a conventionally known method. For example, in the case of a basic catalyst, a strong acid of about 500% of the equivalent required for its neutralization is added, and the mixture is stirred at room temperature for about 0.5 to 1 hour, and then heated at about 80 to 100 ° C. The catalyst may be removed by washing with water several times. When the catalyst is a strong acid, it may be washed several times with hot water at about 80 to 100 ° C. In each case, the washing is performed until the washing liquid becomes neutral.

The residual alcohol is, for example, about 10-100
Approximately 4 at a temperature of about 65-220 ° C under absolute pressure of Pascal
The alcohol may be removed by evaporation over a period of time, preferably about 2 hours. If desired, a decolorizing agent such as activated carbon may be present in this process,
The resulting composition may be decolorized. The decolorizing agent may be removed by filtration.

The resulting composition may be further purified if necessary. Purification may be performed by a conventional method using, for example, column chromatography or the like conventionally used by those skilled in the art.

The resulting composition may be further hydrogenated if desired. By hydrogenation, a composition having good oxidation stability can be obtained. Hydrogenation may be carried out by removing the alcohol and then reacting at a temperature of 100 ° C. to 220 ° C. for 2 to 8 hours in a reaction tank having a hydrogen pressure of about 1 to 20 bar in the presence of a nickel or palladium catalyst.

The composition comprising the product thus obtained can be suitably added to the cosmetic of the present invention as an oily base.

To prepare a suitable cosmetic, the composition comprises:
It is preferable that the content of the wax ester is 55 to 95% by weight, preferably 66 to 90% by weight, particularly 70 to 80% by weight. As other components, 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglyceride, 3 to 20% by weight of diglyceride, 1.5 to 1.5% by weight.
Those containing 10% by weight of monoglycerides are preferred. A wax ester may be added to the product obtained by alcoholysis to prepare a composition containing the components in the above range, and this may be used as a material for cosmetics. Regardless of the production method, cosmetics comprising a composition containing 55 to 95% by weight of wax ester, 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglyceride, 3 to 20% by weight of diglyceride and 1.5 to 12% by weight of monoglyceride are also provided. It is within the scope of the present invention.

The present invention provides a cosmetic comprising the composition obtained as described above. The composition comprises all of the oily bases of the conventionally known cosmetic compositions,
Alternatively, it may be replaced with a part and added.

In the present invention, the compounding amount of the composition is not particularly limited, and can be freely set according to the desired effect, cosmetic dosage form, and the like. The cosmetic thus obtained has a less oily feeling, gives a good feeling to nobi and the skin, and gives an excellent feel as compared with a conventional cosmetic containing only animal oil, vegetable oil and wax ester alone.

The cosmetic of the present invention may contain the above composition as an essential component, and may also contain various components and additives usually used in cosmetics depending on the purpose of use and dosage form. Such components include, for example, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, hydrocarbons, silicones,
Esters, triglycerides, waxes, waxes, animal and vegetable oils, surfactants, polyhydric alcohols, sugars,
Vitamins, amino acids, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances,
Examples include a thickener, an ultraviolet ray inhibitor, alcohols, a pH adjuster, and water. As the addition amount of such components, the amounts conventionally used in preparing various cosmetics may be appropriately added.

The cosmetics of the present invention include various dosage forms, for example, basic cosmetics such as creams, emulsions, lotions, makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, etc., suntan / sunscreen cosmetics, hair creams, hair lotions. And other cosmetics for hair and cleansing, aromatic cosmetics, nail cosmetics, eyeliner cosmetics, lip cosmetics, oral cosmetics, bath cosmetics and the like. Such a cosmetic may be prepared according to a conventional method except that the above composition is added as an essential component. Next, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[0026]

Preparation Example 1 541 g of purified olive oil was placed in a flask, and 459 g of oleyl alcohol and 0.41 g of a 50% aqueous sodium carbonate solution were added. The inside of the flask was heated while being stirred under reduced pressure. When the temperature reached 180 ° C., the pressure was stopped, nitrogen gas was added, the pressure was gently increased, and the mixture was reacted at 180 ° C. for 6 hours with stirring, and then the flask was cooled. . This product was purified by the following method.

To the obtained product, 50 mL of 2N sulfuric acid was added, and the mixture was stirred at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes. After removing the acidic aqueous phase, 100 mL of water was added and the mixture was stirred at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes, and then the aqueous phase was removed. After repeating this washing twice, the pressure was reduced to 9
Dried at 5 ° C. Activated carbon (2.4 g) was added thereto, and the mixture was distilled at 180 ° C. for 2 hours under reduced pressure while stirring with microbubbles of nitrogen gas. Activated carbon was filtered off during warming, cooled slowly with stirring and cooled to 14.5 ° C. in 4 hours, and the resulting precipitate was removed by filtration to obtain 850 g of a pale yellow transparent oily liquid.

The obtained product of Preparation Example 1 contained the following components.・ 82% of wax ester ・ 3% of triglyceride ・ 11% of diglyceride ・ 4% of monoglyceride

[0029]

Preparation Example 2 670 g of purified olive oil was placed in a flask, and 1-decanol 330 in which 0.5 g of sodium was dissolved.
Add g. The inside of the flask is heated while being stirred under reduced pressure. When the temperature reaches 125 ° C., the depressurization is stopped, nitrogen gas is added, and the pressure is gently increased.
After reacting for 0 minutes, the flask was cooled. Thereafter, the same purification as in Preparation Example 1 was performed. Thereafter, the mixture was reacted at 200 ° C. for 6 hours under a pressure of 10 bar of hydrogen using a nickel catalyst, and the catalyst was removed by filtration to obtain a white product.

The product of Preparation 2 had a melting point of 40 ° C. and an iodine value of 1 or less. The product of Preparation 2 was composed of the following components.・ 85% wax ester ・ 2% triglyceride ・ 15% diglyceride ・ 7% monoglyceride

[0031]

Preparation Example 3 756 g of purified salmon oil was placed in a flask, and 244 g of hexanol in which 0.5 g of sodium was dissolved.
Was added, and the same reaction as in Preparation Example 2 was performed. Then, the same purification as in Preparation Example 1 was performed.

[0032]

Preparation Example 4 496 g of dissolved butterfat was placed in a flask, 504 g of oleyl alcohol and 0.45 g of a 50% aqueous sodium carbonate solution were added, and the same reaction and purification as in Preparation Example 1 were performed.

[0033]

Preparation Example 5 670 g of hydrogenated purified rapeseed oil was placed in a flask, and 330 g of 1-decanol in which 0.5 g of sodium was dissolved.
Was added, and the same reaction as in Preparation Example 2 was performed. Then, the same purification as in Preparation Example 1 was performed.

Using the oily base obtained in the above Preparation Examples, cosmetics were prepared, and their usability and SPF value were evaluated. The evaluation method is as shown below. [Usability Test] A sensory test was conducted for “elongation at the time of application”, “odor”, “freshness after application”, and “moistness after application”. Female panelists (10 to 15 persons) make use of the sample cosmetics in the usual way and make it into 5: very good, 4: good, 3: normal, 2: somewhat bad, and 1: bad. evaluated. The total score evaluated was divided by the number of panelists, and the following judgment symbols were assigned as scores.

[0035]

[Table 1]

[Measurement of SPF value] A sample was uniformly applied to a tape (Transpore tape: manufactured by 3M) at 2 mg / cm ² or 2 μl / cm ² , and an SPF-290 analyzer was used.
(Optometrics Co., Ltd.) was used to measure the UV protection factors at the six application points, and the software for SPF-290 analyzer (SPF OPERATING SOFTWARE VERSION 1.
Numerical values were calculated using the above method.

[0037]

Example 1 Cosmetics having the following formulations were prepared and evaluated.

[Table 2]

Preparation method 1.1 The raw materials of 1 to 8 are stirred and dissolved at 80 ° C. 2. In a separate container, 9 to 16 raw materials except 15 are stirred and dissolved at 80 ° C. 3. Add 1 to 3.2 and emulsify with a homomixer. 4. Cool to 40 ° C and add 15 to make the product.

[0039]

[Table 3]

[0040]

Embodiment 2

[Table 4]

Manufacturing Method 1.1 The raw materials of 1 to 6 are stirred and dissolved at 80 ° C. 2. In a separate container, put 7 to 13 raw materials excluding 10 and 11
Stir and dissolve at ℃. 3. Add 2. while stirring 3.1.
Cool to ° C. 4. Add 10 and 11 to 4.3. Cool to room temperature with further stirring.

[0042]

[Table 5]

[0043]

[Table 6]

Production Method 1. Premix the raw materials from 11.1 to 15. 2. In a separate container, stir and dissolve 1 to 10 raw materials at 80 ° C., and add and disperse 1. 3. Stir and dissolve 16-20 raw materials in another container at 80 ° C. 4. Add 3 to 4.2, emulsify with a homomixer and cool to room temperature.

[0045]

[Table 7]

[0046]

Embodiment 4

[Table 8]

Manufacturing Method 1.9 to 12 raw materials are mixed well. 2. Stir and dissolve the remaining raw materials at 85 ° C, add 1. to this, knead well, and mold into a core. 3. Pencil the tree.

As a result of the usability test, the obtained pencil-type eyebrow ink had good stretchability and familiarity with the skin, had a favorable feel, and had good coloration.

[0049]

Embodiment 5

[Table 9]

Production Method 1. The raw materials of 12, 13 and 14 are added to part of 1 or 2, and the mixture is treated with a roller. 2.15 is dissolved in part of 1 or 2. 3. Mix the remaining raw materials, stir and dissolve at 85 ° C, add 1 and 2, and uniformly disperse them with a homomixer. 4. After dispersion, pour into a mold and quench to make a stick.

[0051]

[Table 10]

[0052]

Embodiment 6

[Table 11]

Production method 1.8 The raw materials of 1.8 to 16 are mixed in a blender. 2. In a separate container, the raw materials 1 to 7 are mixed and dissolved. And mix well. 3. After crushing this with a crusher, it is passed through a sieve and compression molded into an aluminum dish.

As a result of the usability test, the two-way foundation obtained had good coloration, elongation, color retention, and good usability.

[0055]

Embodiment 7

[Table 12]

Production Method 1.1 The raw materials of 1.1 to 4, 7, 8, and 10 are stirred and dissolved at 75 ° C. 2. The remaining raw materials are stirred and dissolved at 75 ° C. in another container. 3.2. 1 And emulsify with a homomixer and cool to room temperature with stirring.

The results of the usability test show that the treatment obtained has less tingling when wet.
The combability was good and the suppleness and gloss when dried were good.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A61K 7/06 A61K 7/06 7/16 7/16 7/42 7/42 7/50 7/50 C11C 3/00 C11C 3/00 3/06 3/06 3/10 3/10 (72) Inventor Takashi Yoshioka 1-7-11 Doshomachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Inside Iwase Cosfa Corporation (72) Inventor Takayuki Kado 1-7-1, Doshu-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Prefecture F-term in Iwase Cosfa Co., Ltd. AC392 AC421 AC422 AC442 AC472 AC482 AC522 AC532 AC582 AC692 AC792 AC842 AD042 AD072 AD092 AD152 AD162 AD511 AD512 AD572 AD642 CC03 CC11 CC13 CC14 CC19 CC22 CC25 CC28 CC31 CC41 CC50 FF10 4H059 BA12 BA33 BA34 BB02 BB03 BC0 3 BC13 BC42 BC44 CA36 EA17

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A cosmetic comprising, as an essential component, a composition obtained by subjecting an oil or fat and / or a wax ester to alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the fat or oil is one or more selected from animal oils and vegetable oils. 3. The wax ester is selected from lanolin, whale wax, beeswax, shellac wax, orange roughy oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and jojoba oil.
The cosmetic according to claim 1, which is a kind or two or more kinds. 4. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the alcohol is at least one alcohol selected from C1 to C20 alkanols, C3 to C20 alkenols, and C3 to C20 branched alcohols. 5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 55 to 95% by weight of wax ester, 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglyceride, 3 to 20% by weight of diglyceride and 1.5 to 12% by weight of monoglyceride. The cosmetic of claim 1. 6. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the composition is obtained by subjecting an oil or fat and / or a wax ester to an alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst, and further hydrogenated. 7. The cosmetic is a cosmetic for cleansing, a cosmetic for hair,
Basic cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, aromatic cosmetics, suntan / sunscreen cosmetics, nail cosmetics, eyeliner cosmetics,
The cosmetic according to claim 1, which is any of a lip cosmetic, an oral cosmetic, and a bath cosmetic. 8. A method for producing a cosmetic, comprising a step of subjecting an oil or fat and / or a wax ester to alcoholysis reaction with an alcohol in the presence of a catalyst to obtain a composition, and blending the composition into a cosmetic. 9. A cosmetic comprising a composition containing 55 to 95% by weight of wax ester, 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglyceride, 3 to 20% by weight of diglyceride and 1.5 to 12% by weight of monoglyceride.