JP2000256939A - Twill woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a twill woven fabric full of variety and various lastes and having a high commercial value by forming a woven fabric having plain weaving, etc., as a ground texture with a pattern comprising a twill texture. SOLUTION: This fabric is composed of a plain weaving texture 1, a twill weaving texture or a satin weaving texture, etc., as a ground texture. In the fabric, a twill woven fabric on which a pattern of a gauze texture 2 using a figure weft yarn comprising a foil or decorative yarn such as one fine grain primary twisted twill gossamer, three-over gossamer or silk gauze with one caldron (a unit about a size of pattern), e.g. a large pattern formed in about whole breadth of a woven fabric, a middle pattern or a small pattern is formed, is woven.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a single-grain pattern of a fine-grained gauze structure formed on a plain weave, oblique weave or satin weave (hereinafter simply referred to as "plain weave, etc."). It is related to saori fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, ground warp and silk warp (Megori warp) are known.
And the whole width formed by simultaneously raising and lowering all of the warp warps with several screen frames (table screen or reverse screen) and several return bar blades is well known for fabrics having a gauze structure. .

A woven fabric formed by arranging a plurality of small patterns such as plain weaves partially in the width direction of a woven fabric having a gauze structure side by side in a plurality of pots in the width direction of a woven fabric having a gauze structure, Conventionally, there are various types of woven fabrics in which one large pattern is formed by one pot (a unit of a complete pattern located between the widths of the woven fabric).

Further, as a method of forming a pattern by plain weaving or the like on a woven fabric having a full width gauze structure, a technique called "monsa" (hereinafter referred to as "monsa technique") using a embroidery needle and a sui needle for a woolen warp is used. However, when a pattern is formed by plain weaving or the like using this pattern, two common patterns (two pots) are placed in the width of the woven fabric, which is known as a kamamono.
Only patterns with a limited size such as two and a half (two pots and half) or three (three pots) were formed.

[0005] The reason for this is that, as is well known, when the number of jacquard needles is divided into a sewn needle, a ground needle and a return needle, the number of embroidered needles becomes insufficient.

On the other hand, in the above-mentioned crest technique, it is possible to form a pattern with a gauze structure on a woven fabric having a plain weave or the like as a ground structure. For some reason, it is necessary to use a plurality of kettles to form a gauze-patterned pattern.For example, trying to form a single large pattern with one pot over almost the entire width of the fabric cannot form a fine-grained pattern. When emphasizing fineness, the size of one pattern was limited.

In the above-mentioned crest gauze technique, for example, in order to form one large pattern (single pot) with a gauze weave over almost the entire width of a fabric having a plain weave or the like as a ground texture,
In theory, a large number of fluffy warp yarns to form a gauze structure were added over the entire width to ground warp yarns with a plain weave design that originally increased the density of the warp yarns to maintain the texture and strength of the fabric,
It is only necessary to provide a sewn needle and a return needle for forming a gauze texture on all of the siege warp yarns. Because the warp of the ground warp cannot be smoothed, the warp of the ground warp rises on the warp or the opening of the loom becomes small and the shed (weft) cannot pass through, so that the warp that can be freely sewn by the majiri is free. The vertical movement of the warp may not be possible, and in order to solve this, it is necessary to judge the warp every time the shelter is hit. It was a woven fabric.

[0008] The above tendency is that if the density of the warp is large,
The same applies to the case of forming a small pattern of a single pot. When a pattern with a gauze structure is formed on a woven fabric by this crest gauze technique, the ground structure of the woven fabric is firm, but it is not possible to freely free the mojiri There was a problem.

[0009] For this reason, conventionally, not only a woven fabric having a single large-sized fine gauze structure over almost the entire width of a woven fabric having a plain weave or the like but also a medium-sized or small-sized woven fabric, A woven fabric having a pattern with one fine gauze structure by a kettle cannot be woven easily and has not existed until now.

[0010]

In addition to the above-mentioned major problems in the prior art which have been widely adopted since ancient times, a large number of sewn warp yarns and a return needle are provided on each of a large number of sewn warp yarns for forming a large number of gauze structures arranged over the entire width. It takes a lot of trouble and time to provide the woven fabric, and the woven fabric is expensive, so that no one has ever tried it.

The inventor of the present invention has been attracting attention to the uniqueness of woven fabrics in recent years. Due to changes in the values of the general public, the seasonal feeling of the woven fabric of the gauze tissue can be acquired throughout the four seasons from the overwhelming consciousness of summer clothing. Focusing on the fact that it is being recognized as one of the changing textures, with the main focus on differentiating various types of patterned fabric from conventional products, various types of gauze fabrics with one pot over almost the entire width of fabrics with plain fabric etc. Fabrics that form a single large pattern, or fabrics that have various patterns formed in a single pot at any position, can express uniqueness in terms of design, so that we can manage to weave them. Thus, the present invention was completed by various means.

[0012]

A first aspect of the present invention is a plain weave,
This is a saori woven fabric formed by forming one fine gauze pattern (samon) by one pot on a woven fabric having a ground texture of a slanted weave or a satin weave.

A second aspect of the present invention is a saori woven fabric in which the fine gauze pattern of the saori woven fabric according to the first aspect is one large pattern formed over almost the entire width of the woven fabric. is there.

A third aspect of the present invention is a saori woven fabric in which the fine woven gauze pattern of the saori woven fabric according to the first aspect of the present invention is a single medium or small pattern.

[0015] A fourth aspect of the present invention is that a pattern formed by a picture weft consisting of a foil or decorative thread is formed in a required structure on the saori fabric of any one of the first to third aspects of the present invention. It is a saori woven fabric.

[0016]

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a woven fabric according to the present invention.

Embodiment 1 FIG. 1 is a plan view of a saori woven fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a plain woven structure as a ground structure of the saori woven fabric according to the present invention and a back side of a gauze fabric forming a pattern. It is a partial enlarged view.

In FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, reference numeral 1 denotes a plain weave structure as a ground structure, which is formed by a ground warp 1a, a sieve warp 1b, a Karami warp 1c and a ground weft 1d. Is a portion of a fine gauze structure forming a pattern, and the pattern portion of this gauze structure is a lower Meguri pattern gauze made by the above-mentioned fluff warp 1b. In the illustrated example, the gauze structure portion is a multi-ellipse. It is a pattern.

Therefore, part 1 of the plain weave structure as the ground structure
Are densely woven, and the fine-textured gauze tissue portion 2 forming the pattern is in a state where the back surface can be seen through (see FIG. 2).

Embodiment 2 FIG. 3 is a plan view of another saori fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 4 is a plain weave fabric as a ground structure and a texture forming a pattern in another saori fabric according to the present invention. FIG. 4 is a partially enlarged view of a plain weave pattern forming a pattern with a fine gauze pattern and picture wefts by a weave back.

In FIGS. 3 and 4, reference numeral 1 denotes a plain weave structure as a ground structure.
Ground warp 1a, sieve warp 1b and Karami warp 1
c and ground weft 1d, 2 is a portion of a fine gauze structure forming a pattern in the same manner as described above, and 3 is a portion of a plain weave structure forming a pattern by a picture weft. In the illustrated example, the portion 2 of the gauze structure is a multi-ellipse pattern formed by the lower Mori pattern of the stuffed warp 1b, and the portion 3 of the plain weave design by the picture weft is the decorative yarn 3a and the foil 3b (gold yarn).・ Includes silver thread) alternately.

Therefore, part 1 of the plain weave structure as the ground structure
Is densely woven, and the portion 2 of the fine gauze structure forming the pattern is in a state in which the back surface can be seen through, and has a plain weave structure using decorative yarn 3a and foil 3b as picture weft. The part 3 is densely woven so as to straddle the upper part of the ground structure part 1 and the gauze structure part 2.

Embodiment 3 FIG. 5 shows a portion 1 of a plain weave structure as a ground structure and a portion 2 of a fine-textured gauze structure forming a pattern, similarly to the embodiment shown in FIGS. And a plain weave portion 3 forming a pattern with picture wefts. In the illustrated example, the plain weave portion 1 as a ground structure has a peony flower and bird pattern (appears in a linear pattern). Partial) fine gauze tissue 2
The picture is drawn by a single pot, and a picture weft is applied in a plain weave structure 3 on the central scent of the peony flower and a part of the head, shoulder and trunk of the bird.

Embodiment 4 FIG. 6 is also similar to the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, FIG. 4 and FIG.
It is composed of a plain weave part 1 as a ground structure, a fine gauze part 2 forming a pattern, and a plain weave part 3 forming a pattern with picture wefts. On the part 1 of the plain weave as the ground structure, the pattern of rain (the part that appears in a line) is drawn almost all over by a pot with a fine gauze structure 2 and two types (solid and The petals of cherry blossoms by the weft picture thread are scattered in the plain weave structure 3.

The saori woven fabric according to the present invention shown in each of the above-described embodiments is formed by a general-purpose jacquard loom (for 1200) using 408 ground warp yarns, 408 warp warp yarns (a single sewn silk frit), With 408 karami warp yarns, 408 sewn needles, and 38 reeds (the number of reed blades per inch (approximately 3 cm)), the ground structure 1 has one baturi (fluffy warp) and two baturi (ground warp and karami yarn). ) Ridges, ground wefts are needle ridges, gauze structure 2 is Shimo-Meguri crested gauze, decoration weft 3a and foil 3b in picture weft 3 are needle floating eight-sheet red silk and karami ridge, decoration yarn 3a and foil 3b Is a band of about 30 cm in width formed by a lower row (this woven structure is a commonly used structure).

In the weaving means of the woven fabric, the number of reeds (the number of reed blades) is set to an easily manageable number, and the number of threads (interval) of the warp as plain weave is set to the number of yarns that can maintain the texture of the fabric. It is trying to liberalize Mongori, which was a major problem in the past.

The weaving means of the saori woven fabric according to the present invention is not limited to the means described above. For example, in the above-mentioned structure, the number of reeds, the number of warp warp yarns, and the change of the jacquard loom ( For example, weaving can be performed by appropriately changing the number of ground warp yarns and screen warp yarns.

In the present invention, for example, by appropriately selecting the number of reed blades and the number of warp yarns, a pattern with one large pattern and a fine gauze structure made of one pot full of weaving width can be obtained with a single crest screen. Needless to say, it is possible to form a pattern with one medium pattern or a small pattern with a fine gauze structure by one pot in a part of the weaving width.

The gauze woven fabric according to the present invention can be woven on not only jacquard looms but also various looms as well as hand looms.

In each of the above embodiments, the plain weave is described as an example of the ground structure. However, other oblique weaves and satin weaves may be used as the ground structure.

Also, the Shimo-Meguri Monsa has been described as an example of the Saisa organization, but other Mitsukoshi Sa and Rosa (combination of Rosa and Sa) or various types of Rosu (Mitsukoshi Rogo, Gokoshi Rogo, Nanakoshi) And the like).

Further, an example in which the picture weft is woven by plain weaving has been described, but this picture weft can be woven with various forms of patterns by face-down binding or needle binding.

[0033]

According to the present invention, no new device or special member is required, and the theory of the generally used sieve and return needle is completed for each reed. The gauze tissue can be formed only in the area where the gauze is to be formed, and the gauze tissue can be formed independently for each reed, regardless of the tissue other than the gauze tissue. By forming, the pattern with one large pattern and fine gauze structure with one pot over almost the entire width of the woven fabric with plain texture, oblique weave or satin texture as the ground structure, as well as one medium pattern or small pattern with one pot A variety of unusual and high-value saori fabrics with a variety of textures and patterns with a fine gauze structure can be obtained.

Therefore, it can be said that the industrial applicability of the present invention is extremely high.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a saori fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged view of a tissue by a woven back of a woven fabric in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a plan view of another samon fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a partially enlarged view of a tissue by a woven back of a saori woven fabric in FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 is a plan view of yet another saori fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a plan view of still another woven fabric according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1. Part of plain weave structure (forms ground structure) 1a. Ground warp 1a 1b. Fluy warp 1c. Karami warp 1d. Ground weft 2. 2. Part of the gauze tissue (forms the pattern) Plain weave part (formation of picture weft) 3a. Decorative thread 3b. Foil

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A saori woven fabric formed by forming one fine gauze pattern with one pot on a woven fabric having a plain weave, oblique weave, or satin weave as a ground texture. 2. The gauze fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fine-grained gauze structure is one large-sized pattern formed over substantially the entire width of the fabric. 3. The saori woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fine-grained gauze structure is one of a medium or small pattern. 4. A saori woven fabric, wherein a pattern of a picture weft consisting of foil or decorative yarn is formed in a required structure on the saori woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3.