CN117758418A

CN117758418A - Double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric and weaving method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN117758418A
Application number: CN202311842544.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨新; 张长波
Original assignee: Zibo Daranfang Silk Group Co ltd
Current assignee: Zibo Daranfang Silk Group Co ltd
Priority date: 2023-12-29
Filing date: 2023-12-29
Publication date: 2024-03-26

Abstract

A double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric and a weaving method thereof belong to the technical field of fabric spinning. The pattern is composed of a surface A and a surface B, wherein the surface A and the surface B are connected into a whole through common patterns as binding points, and a plurality of binding points are uniformly distributed on the surface A and the surface B. The weaving method of the double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric comprises the following steps: 1) specification design, 2) organization design, 3) design of pattern, 4) pattern design, 5) weaving. According to the double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric, the flower type centers of the A side and the B side are overlapped, the fabric is thin to be transparent, the flower types on the two sides are overlapped, a novel overlapped flower type can be formed, and the visual effect is outstanding. The fabric has wide application, and is used as a fabric for wearing on the front and back surfaces of a screen, a sector, a curtain, a shawl, a shirt for wearing on the front and back surfaces.

Description

Double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric and weaving method thereof

Technical Field

A double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric and a weaving method thereof belong to the technical field of fabric spinning.

Background

The practicality of silk broad width jacquard weave mainly uses individual layer home textile product, silk scarf, garment materials at present, and people not only need to have the comfort level when purchasing the product, more consider the fashion sense that individualized, diversified demand and vision impact brought, and the requirement to home textile materials is also higher and higher. The functions of the existing electronic jacquard equipment and the diversification of various fibers can be completely developed and designed into high-grade double-layer silk jacquard fabric with artistic effect, so that the silk jacquard fabric is personalized in quality aspect and is expanded in fashion aspect.

However, the applicant found in the study that the prior art had the following problems: 1. the existing double-sided different-flower jacquard fabric is not suitable for being used in light-transmitting environments such as curtains, screens and lampshades. When the transparent environment is used, after the patterns of the A face and the B face are overlapped, the patterns are disordered, and a new overlapped pattern cannot be formed.

2. The existing double-sided different-flower jacquard fabric has too few and obvious connecting points, and when the jacquard fabric is touched by hands, the hand feeling is still like that 2 pieces of jacquard fabric are sewn together by threads, and when the garment and the fan are manufactured, layering is serious and the garment is not fit enough.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problems that: the double-sided jacquard fabric with different patterns and the weaving method thereof have the advantages of good glossiness, brightness and hand feeling, uniform scouring and high one-time success rate.

The technical scheme adopted by the method for solving the technical problems of the invention is as follows: the pattern of the double-sided different-pattern wide jacquard fabric consists of a surface A and a surface B, wherein the surface A and the surface B are connected into a whole through common patterns as binding points, and a plurality of binding points are uniformly distributed on the surface A and the surface B.

The pattern of the A surface is the same as the pattern of the B surface in size, the A surface is a diamond lace pattern, and the B surface is a round velvet flower.

The distribution positions of the A-side pattern and the B-side pattern on the fabric are overlapped.

The A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are central symmetry flower types, and the symmetry center positions of the A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are overlapped.

The weft yarns of the side A and the side B are 60S/1 dyed cotton yarns, and the weft yarn density is 110 pieces/cm.

The warp yarns of the A side and the B side are specifically 2/20/22D mulberry silk, and the warp density is 120 warp yarns/cm.

The connecting points are round points, and the weft yarns on the A face and the B face of the connecting points adopt the same-color weft yarns.

The weaving method of the double-sided different-flower wide-width jacquard fabric comprises the following steps: 1) specification design, 2) organization design, 3) design of pattern, 4) pattern design, 5) weaving; wherein,

the specific operation of the specification design of the step 1) is as follows: according to the two sides of the flower, the invention adopts a machine table of a 24# reed, 5 healds/teeth, 120 warp density, 110 weft density and 74 cm/return of the upper machine flower and 8880 needle/return; the warp and weft densities of the patterns on the surface A and the surface B are respectively 1:1, namely, the warp density is 60 roots/cm, and the weft density is 55 roots/cm;

the specific operation of the weaving in the step 5) is as follows: the weaving speed was 200 shuttle/minute, the bench tension 24CN, the shed height 32.2mm.

Preferably, the specific operation of the organization design of step 2) is: designing 2 groups of warp yarns and 2 groups of weft yarns to interweave, wherein the odd number warp yarns 13579 and … … of the first group of warp yarns and the 1 st group of weft yarns 13579 and … … are interweaved into an A-face pattern; the second group of warp yarns IIIIIIIV V … … even warp yarns interweave with the 2 nd group of weft yarns IIIIIV V … … to form a B-side pattern; the pattern A surface at the binding position is interweaved by the first group of warp 13579 … … odd number warp yarns and the 2 nd group of weft IIIIIIIV V … …; the pattern B surface of the binding position is that the second group of warp yarn IIIIIIIIV V … … even warp yarn and the 1 st group of weft 13579 … … are interwoven in sequence.

Preferably, the specific operation of the pattern design in step 4) is as follows: the odd number of needles is the A face pattern, the pattern lattice number: 8880X 2360; the even number of needles is the number of patterns of the B surface and the number of patterns: 8880X 2360; after lamination, the A face and the B face are subjected to lamination to form a lamination pattern, and the pattern lattice number is as follows: 8880X 4720.

Step 4) description of the design of the pattern: the pattern samples of the A surface and the B surface are calculated and generated according to the halving warp and weft density (warp density: 60 pieces/cm, weft density: 55 pieces/cm) and the pattern size (70 cm multiplied by 21.4 cm), and the pattern samples with the same number of warp and weft patterns and different patterns are obtained, wherein the number of pattern samples is as follows: 4440×1180. The 2 patterns are positioned at the same position through the functions of up, down, left and right of the 'connect back'. The function of 'increasing warp yarn' is applied to double the number of the pattern needles of the A face and the B face, thus forming 13579 … … with the odd number of the pattern needles of the A face (the number of the pattern needles: 8880 multiplied by 2360) and the 246810 … … even number of the pattern needles of the B face (the number of the pattern needles: 8880 multiplied by 2360), and then forming a new overlapped pattern (the number of the pattern needles: 8880 multiplied by 4720) on the A face and the B face by the 'overlapping' function.

Description of step 1) specification design: considering the shrinkage of the binding pattern and double-layer fabric, the design of the A surface and the B surface adopts 60S/1 color cotton. The weft yarn density was 110 picks/cm. Meanwhile, the common pattern is taken as a joint point for the A face and the B face, so that the A face and the B face adopt the same-color weft yarns. According to yarn characteristics, weft yarn raw materials with similar shrinkage rate are selected as far as possible, and uneven appearance caused by shrinkage difference in the later period is avoided.

Step 5) description in weaving: the machine tension is 24CN, the tension difference between the upper layer and the lower layer when warp yarns are opened is reduced, the quality of silk surface is optimized, and the probability of warp breaking and stopping is reduced. The shed height is 32.2mm, so that the shed is clear, the weft insertion is moderate, the friction of the rapier head of the rapier tape to break relatively loose warp yarns is reduced, and the weaving efficiency is improved.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. according to the double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric, the flower type centers of the A side and the B side are overlapped, the fabric is thin to be transparent, the flower types on the two sides are overlapped, a novel overlapped flower type can be formed, and the visual effect is outstanding.

When the light ray position relationship is in a smooth environment of the fabric, namely the human eye and the light source, the fabric is not easy to transmit light, and the human eye can see the patterns of the A face or the B face. When the light ray position relationship is light source-fabric-human eye, the pattern center is overlapped, and the patterns of the A face and the B face are overlapped, so that the human eye can observe the third pattern under the light transmission condition, and the visual effect is outstanding. The method is suitable for manufacturing fabrics used in light-transmitting environments, such as curtains, screens and lampshades.

Particularly, the cover cloth used as the lampshade can show two patterns when the lamp is turned on and off. For example, when the A face is directed to the bulb and the B face is directed to the external environment, and the bulb is not lighted, the cover pattern seen by the human eye is the B face pattern, and when the bulb is lighted, the cover pattern seen by the human eye is the overlapping pattern of the A face and the B face, and the overlapping patterns of the A face and the B face still have the characteristic of central symmetry due to the overlapping of the pattern centers, so that one overlapping pattern can be formed.

2. The double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric improves the grade of the fabric in the flower-shaped appearance, is an important breakthrough in the research and development of new products, and provides a new research and development idea for the innovation of the real silk double-layer jacquard fabric. Meanwhile, the common pattern part of the patterns of the A surface and the B surface is adopted as the optimal joint point, so that the tissue layers of the A surface and the B surface are mutually connected, the integrity of the fabric is improved, the slipping phenomenon of the product is avoided, the softness of the silk hand feeling is ensured, and the weaving quality of the product is improved. Meanwhile, the innovation of silk products in the aspects of individuality and fashion is realized.

3. The double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric provided by the invention is wide in application range and is used as a fabric for screen, sector, curtain, square towel, shawl, front and back shirts and skirts, and front and back double-sided wearing.

Drawings

The invention will be further described with reference to the drawings and examples.

FIG. 1 is a pattern drawing of the A-plane of example 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a B-side texture sample of example 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a pattern of overlapping A and B surfaces of example 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the C1 color structure according to the embodiment 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the structure of an A2A3A4 color structure according to embodiment 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a B5B6B7 color organization chart of embodiment 1 of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a structural design of the bobbin case needle weave according to embodiment 1 of the invention;

FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram showing the structure of an edge needle according to embodiment 1 of the present invention;

fig. 9 is a top pattern layout of embodiment 1 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, wherein example 1 is the best mode.

Example 1

Referring to fig. 1-3, the pattern of the double-sided heteroflower wide jacquard fabric is composed of a surface A and a surface B, the surface A and the surface B are connected into a whole through a common pattern as binding points, and a plurality of binding points are uniformly distributed on the surface A and the surface B. The pattern of the A surface is the same as the pattern of the B surface, the A surface is a diamond lace pattern, and the B surface is a round velvet flower. The distribution positions of the A-side pattern and the B-side pattern on the fabric are overlapped.

The A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are central symmetrical flower types, and symmetrical central positions of the A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are overlapped. The weft yarns of the A side and the B side are 60S/1 dyed cotton yarns, and the weft yarn density is 110 pieces/cm. The warp yarns of the A side and the B side are specifically 2/20/22D mulberry silk, and the warp density is 120 warp yarns/cm. The connecting points are round points, and the weft yarns on the A side and the B side at the connecting points adopt the same-color weft yarns.

The weaving method of the double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric comprises the following steps:

1) And (3) specification design: according to the two sides of the flower, the invention adopts a machine table of a 24# reed, 5 healds/teeth, 120 warp density, 110 weft density and 74 cm/return of the upper machine flower and 8880 needle/return; the warp and weft densities of the patterns on the surface A and the surface B are respectively 1:1, namely, the warp density is 60 roots/cm, and the weft density is 55 roots/cm.

2) And (3) tissue design: designing 2 groups of warp yarns and 2 groups of weft yarns to interweave, wherein the first group of warp yarns 13579 … … is interweaved with the 1 st group of weft yarns 13579 … … to form an A-plane pattern; the second group of warp yarns IIIIIIIV V … … even warp yarns interweave with the 2 nd group of weft yarns IIIIIV V … … to form a B-side pattern; the pattern A surface at the binding position is interweaved with the first group of warp 13579 … … odd warp and the 2 nd group of weft IIIIIII IV V … …; the pattern B surface at the binding site is formed by interweaving a second group of warp yarns IIIIIIIIV V … … even number warp yarns with the 1 st group of weft 13579 … … in sequence.

3) Design of flower type: the pattern of the A surface and the B surface is a joint point by using a common pattern part, the A surface is a diamond lace pattern, the B surface is a round velvet pattern, and the A surface and the B surface are 2 patterns with the same size and different patterns; wherein the red dots of the A-side and the red dots of the B-side are binding patterns. The A-side pattern is shown in FIG. 1, and the B-side pattern is shown in FIG. 2.

4) Pattern design: the odd number of needles is the A face pattern, the pattern lattice number: 8880X 2360; the even number of needles is the number of patterns of the B surface and the number of patterns: 8880X 2360; after lamination, the A face and the B face are subjected to lamination to form a lamination pattern, and the pattern lattice number is as follows: 8880X 4720. The new superimposed pattern formed on the surface A and the surface B is shown in figure 3.

5) Weaving: the weaving speed was maintained at 200 picks per minute, machine station tension 24CN, shed height 32.2mm.

Yarn color design: color 1 is binding pattern; 2, 3 and 4 are colors corresponding to the A-plane pattern; 5, 6, 7 colors are colors corresponding to the patterns of the B surface; the tissue structures corresponding to the specific colors are respectively C1; a2A3A 4; b5B6B7, a tissue design, as shown in fig. 4-6.

Pattern design: the sample card is 8880 needles, and the shuttle box needle is shown in figure 7 in the functional needle configuration list. The side needle is convenient for weaving by a loom and is designed into a double-layer structure, as shown in figure 8. On the premise of ensuring the right number of patterns (14160 wefts), the upper machine pattern is generated. The resulting partial image of the upper plate is shown in fig. 9.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the invention in any way, and any person skilled in the art may make modifications or alterations to the disclosed technical content to the equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modification, equivalent variation and variation of the above embodiments according to the technical substance of the present invention still fall within the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The double-sided different-flower wide jacquard fabric is characterized in that: the pattern is composed of a surface A and a surface B, wherein the surface A and the surface B are connected into a whole through common patterns as binding points, and a plurality of binding points are uniformly distributed on the surface A and the surface B.

2. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the pattern of the A surface is the same as the pattern of the B surface in size, the A surface is a diamond lace pattern, and the B surface is a round velvet flower.

3. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the distribution positions of the A-side pattern and the B-side pattern on the fabric are overlapped.

4. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are central symmetry flower types, and the symmetry center positions of the A-side flower type and the B-side flower type are overlapped.

5. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the weft yarns of the side A and the side B are 60S/1 dyed cotton yarns, and the weft yarn density is 110 pieces/cm.

6. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the warp yarns of the A side and the B side are specifically 2/20/22D mulberry silk, and the warp density is 120 warp yarns/cm.

7. The double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the connecting points are round points, and the weft yarns on the A face and the B face of the connecting points adopt the same-color weft yarns.

8. A method of weaving a double sided differential width jacquard fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of: 1) specification design, 2) organization design, 3) design of pattern, 4) pattern design, 5) weaving; wherein,

9. The method for weaving double-sided, heteroflower wide jacquard fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that the specific operation of step 2) weave design is: designing 2 groups of warp yarns and 2 groups of weft yarns to interweave, wherein the odd number warp yarns 13579 and … … of the first group of warp yarns and the 1 st group of weft yarns 13579 and … … are interweaved into an A-face pattern; the second group of warp yarns IIIIIIIV V … … even warp yarns interweave with the 2 nd group of weft yarns IIIIIV V … … to form a B-side pattern; the pattern A surface at the binding position is interweaved by the first group of warp 13579 … … odd number warp yarns and the 2 nd group of weft IIIIIIIV V … …; the pattern B surface of the binding position is that the second group of warp yarn IIIIIIIIV V … … even warp yarn and the 1 st group of weft 13579 … … are interwoven in sequence.

10. The method for weaving double-sided differential pattern wide jacquard fabric according to claim 8, wherein the specific operation of step 4) pattern design is: the odd number of needles is the A face pattern, the pattern lattice number: 8880X 2360; the even number of needles is the number of patterns of the B surface and the number of patterns: 8880X 2360; after lamination, the A face and the B face are subjected to lamination to form a lamination pattern, and the pattern lattice number is as follows: 8880X 4720.