JP2000212036A - Selection of cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To objectively and readily select a proper beautifying and whitening cosmetic by using the existing state of melanin and the irregular color of skin as indices. SOLUTION: A cosmetic such as a beautifying and whitening cosmetic is selected by using the existing state of melanin and the irregular color of skin as indices. The existing state of the melanin is preferably indicated by the amount of the existing melanin in keratinocytes and nonuniformity of the existence in the keratinocytes and the discrimination of the existing state of the melanin is preferably carried out by a method, etc., for collecting the keratinocytes on, e.g. a tacky disk, transferring the collected keratinocytes onto a transparent tacky tape, staining the keratinocytes with silver nitrate and gentian violet, washing the resultant specimen with water, drying the washed specimen, casting a transparent silicone agent thereonto so as to cover only the stained part, providing a sample and observing the prepared sample under a microscope. The evaluation of the irregular color is preferably conducted by using irregular color models prepared by computer morphing and comparing the irregular color models with an irregular color model photograph. The selected cosmetic is preferably a basic cosmetic and the evaluation weighting ratio as the indices is preferably 0.6-0.8 irregular color for 0.2-0.4 existing state of the melanin.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for selecting a cosmetic, which is suitable for selecting a basic cosmetic.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As the word "white is difficult to hide", maintaining a beautiful white skin is something that every woman wants and does not stop. For this reason, various whitening materials for cosmetics have been developed. As such whitening materials, for example, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, glutathione and its derivatives, hydroquinone and its derivatives, and various herbal extracts have been developed. In addition, a number of steps have been found as a mechanism for darkening the skin color, and it is also known that there are many mechanisms called inhibition of melanin production in a bite. Because of this,
There are now a huge number of types of whitening cosmetics. Therefore, those who are going to use the whitening cosmetics are often confused to select which whitening cosmetics are suitable for themselves. That is, there has been a demand for a means for selecting a whitening cosmetic suitable for an individual. Further, the degree of the dye trouble is often subjectively judged by visual observation, but at present, there is no known method for objectively discriminating the degree.

[0003] On the other hand, it has never been known that color unevenness and the presence of melanin at application sites are factors as characteristics of a user for selecting an appropriate whitening cosmetic. Therefore, it has not been known at all that it is possible to select a whitening cosmetic suitable for an individual by using such parameters.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and it is an object of the present invention to provide a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate whitening cosmetic.

[0005]

In view of such circumstances, the present inventors have sought a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate whitening cosmetic, and as a result of intensive research efforts, as a result, the state of presence of melanin has been determined. They found that skin color unevenness was very closely related to the appropriate whitening power of makeup cosmetics, and by using this as an index, they found that such a choice could be made, and completed the invention. . Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail focusing on embodiments.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION (1) Existence of melanin in the stratum corneum Melanin is a pigment present in epidermal tissue, but its form is variously different. For comparison of melanin having various existing forms, for example, it is preferable to perform the following criterion, since a considerably ecologically suitable classification can be performed. That is, when classifying the state of presence of melanin, two axes of non-uniformity using the abundance of the melanin in keratinocytes and the variation in the presence as an index are used. Many methods have already been known for such a melanin presence state, and any of these methods may be used. However, the most preferred method is a method devised by the present inventors, in which keratinocytes are collected on an adhesive disk, transferred to a transparent adhesive tape, and stained with silver nitrate and gentian violet. In other words, the collected sample is 0.5%
Aqueous ammonia was added dropwise to an aqueous silver nitrate solution, and the mixture was treated with a silver staining solution adjusted to pH 10 at 45 ° C. for 10 minutes to perform silver staining, then washed three times with water and treated with a 0.15% gentian violet solution for 10 minutes. In this method, the specimen is washed with water, dried, poured with a transparent silicone agent so as to cover the stained portion, placed on a cover glass to form a sample, and observed under a microscope. The abundance of melanin and the heterogeneity of its presence, which are measured in this way, have a great influence on the observation impression of the state of melanin, and the relationship is independent.
In other words, the greater the abundance of melanin and the greater the non-uniformity, the more the skin is separated from the beautiful skin, and it is necessary to use multiple whitening mechanisms by whitening substances. The less the skin becomes, the more beautiful the skin becomes and the less the whitening effect of the whitening cosmetic becomes. That is, regarding the state of melanin, the abundance and non-uniformity of melanin in the stratum corneum can be used as an index by uniaxializing using a box model. It is very preferable to use this because it is easy to make a determination, but it is also within the technical scope of the present invention to uniaxialize the presence state of melanin by another method and use it as an index. FIG. 1 shows an example of the box-shaped model axis. As can be seen from this example, the presence of melanin can be clearly distinguished on this axis.

(2) Color Unevenness In the method of selecting a cosmetic according to the present invention, the degree of color unevenness of the skin is used as an index in addition to the above-mentioned melanin presence. Skin color unevenness is also caused by abnormal production of melanin, as well as poor presence of melanin, and is a skin problem that should be corrected by cosmetics such as whitening cosmetics, and only when both are improved It can be the basis for really beautiful white skin. The presence state of these melanin and the color unevenness are independent of each other, and each of them alone is a factor for an appropriate whitening effect. By combining these two, a more appropriate whitening cosmetic can be selected. This is because stratum corneum melanin is mainly microscopic,
Although there is a background element, the color unevenness is more macroscopic, so that the contribution to the appropriate whitening effect is large. When this is subjected to a multivariate analysis by a test as shown in the examples described later, the weight ratio is 0.6 to 0.
It becomes 8. By setting an axis for an appropriate whitening effect using this weight, it becomes a selection criterion for an excellent whitening cosmetic.
Here, the evaluation of color unevenness is performed.
The image of the face is captured as an image by a computer, and processing such as binarization is performed, and its distribution is calculated.Using computer morphing, several standard faces with uneven color are created and compared with this standard face. By discriminating the degree, it can be expressed as a numerical value. Even if this numerical value is calculated by comparison with a standard face by the naked eye, its reproducibility is extremely good.
It can be used as an objective numerical value. FIG. 1 shows an example of a standard face having such color unevenness. Using this standard face,
The following Table 1 shows the results of determining the color unevenness of the faces of three panelists randomly selected by three observers. This shows that the reproducibility is high even with such a discriminating means.
Therefore, considering the simplicity, it is preferable to distinguish color unevenness by such a method and use it as an index.

[0008]

[Table 1]

(3) Method for Selecting Cosmetic of the Present Invention The method for selecting a cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by using the presence state and color unevenness of melanin in keratinocytes of the skin as indexes.
As described below, the relationship between beautiful skin, the presence of melanin, and uneven color is (skin beauty) = 0.253 × (existence of melanin in keratinocytes) + 0.936 × (skin unevenness of skin) ) + 1.354. That is, as can be seen from this formula, the beautiful skin value can be increased by improving the presence state of melanin and reducing the unevenness of skin color. That is, a person who intends to use a whitening cosmetic calculates this skin-skin value from the presence of melanin and uneven skin color, and if this value is small, selects a cosmetic having a higher whitening effect, and If the value is large, a cosmetic that does not have a significant whitening effect may be selected. here,
With regard to whitening agents, it is necessary to select cosmetics with an appropriate whitening effect, as inappropriate use of cosmetics with a high whitening effect may cause side effects such as vitiligo. Must be kept. Table 2 shows the relationship between the beautiful skin value and the whitening agent of the cosmetic used. By selecting whitening cosmetics according to this table,
You can select an appropriate whitening cosmetic. Further, more detailed selections can be made by adding other selection evaluation axes, and such selections also belong to the technical scope of the present invention.

<Statistical processing example> Using 334 female panelists (age 16 to 71 years old) randomly extracted, keratinocytes were collected from the right cheek by the adhesive disk method, transferred to an adhesive tape, and transferred to an adhesive tape. Aqueous ammonia was added dropwise to a 0.5% aqueous solution of silver nitrate to adjust the pH to 10, and a silver stain was used.
℃ 10 minutes, silver-stained, washed 3 times with water, 0.15%
Treated with gentian violet solution for 10 minutes. This specimen was washed with water, dried, poured with a transparent silicone agent so as to cover the stained portion, placed on a cover glass to form a sample, observed under a microscope, and determined the presence state of melanin from 1 (bad) to 1 according to the criteria shown in FIG. A rating of 5 (good) was given for evaluation. Further, using a specialized panel, a standard face of the color unevenness shown in FIG. 2 created by morphing was used to evaluate the state of the unevenness by assigning a score of 1 (bad) to 5 (good). In addition, the overall beauty of the skin was evaluated with a score of 1 (not beautiful) to 5 (beautiful). When these were subjected to multiple regression analysis, a multiple correlation coefficient of 0.6617 (skin beauty) = 0.253 × (the presence of melanin in the keratinocytes) + 0.936 × (skin color unevenness) +1. 35
It turns out that it returns to the formula written in 4. At this time, the standard regression coefficient was 0.198 for the presence of melanin in the keratinocytes and 0.590 for the color unevenness. That is, the weighting ratio varies from 0.6 to 0.8 in color unevenness with respect to the presence state of melanin in 0.2 to 0.4. When the color tone smoothness and skin beauty calculated according to the contribution ratio are plotted, (skin beauty) = 0.8 as shown in FIG.
Regression is made to a linear formula of 961 × (color tone smoothness) +1.5095.

[0011]

[Table 2]

[0012]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Example 1> Six types of cosmetics shown below were prepared, and an attempt was made to select a cosmetic suitable for a panelist using the above-mentioned multiple correlation formula. The formulas of these cosmetics are shown below. That is, 50 female panelists randomly selected were used, divided into two groups, and one group calculated the color tone smoothness according to the above formula, and calculated 1 to less than 2, 2 to less than 3, and 3 to less than 4 , 4 or more, less than 5 and 5 or more (the lower the numerical value, the worse the color unevenness and melanin situation). For each, cosmetics 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 were selected. Although the color tone smoothness was calculated, cosmetics 3 were handed out to all.
Have each of these cosmetics be used for 3 months, measure the color tone smoothness after use, reduce the color tone smoothness before use,
The degree of color tone improvement was calculated. When this degree of color tone improvement was averaged for each group, the group selected according to the selection method of the present invention was 1.5%.
In contrast, the group using only cosmetic 3 was 0.3.
86. From this, it can be seen that the whitening cosmetics can be individually handled and a suitable cosmetic can be selected by the method for selecting the cosmetics of the present invention. .

(Cosmetic 1) Glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight Ethanol 10 parts by weight Arbutin 0.5 parts by weight Ascorbic acid 2 mg of magnesium phosphate 0.1 part by weight Sour-white extract 0.3 parts by weight Methyl paraben 0 1 part by weight Water 81 parts by weight

(Cosmetic 2) Glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight Ethanol 10 parts by weight Arbutin 0.5 parts by weight Royal jelly 0.1 part by weight Sour bean extract 0.3 parts by weight Methylparaben 0.1 parts by weight 81 parts by weight of water

(Cosmetic 3) Glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight Ethanol 10 parts by weight Royal jelly 0.1 part by weight Ascorbic acid magnesium phosphate 0.1 part by weight Sour sprouts extract 0.3 part by weight Methyl paraben 0 8 parts by weight

(Cosmetic 4) Glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight Ethanol 10 parts by weight Royal jelly 0.1 part by weight Soh sapling extract 0.3 part by weight Methylparaben 0.1 part by weight Water 81.5 parts by weight

(Cosmetic 5) Glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight Ethanol 10 parts by weight Royal jelly 0.1 part by weight Sour sprouts extract 0.3 part by weight Methyl paraben 0.1 part by weight Water 81.5 parts by weight

[0019]

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate cosmetic such as a whitening cosmetic.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing criteria for the state of melanin.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a standard of color unevenness. (Drawing substitute photo)

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the relationship between skin beauty and color tone smoothness.

 ────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Yoshikazu Hirai 27-1 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa F-term in the POLA Yokohama Research Laboratory (reference) 2G045 AA40 CB01 CB09 DA80 FA11 FA18 FA19 GC12 GC30 JA01 4C038 VA20 VB22 VC01 VC05 VC20 4C083 AA072 AA112 AC102 AC122 AC482 AD392 AD642 CC01 DD23 EE16 EE50

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A method for selecting a cosmetic, characterized by using an existing state of melanin and color unevenness of skin as indices. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the presence state of melanin is represented by the amount of melanin present in the keratinocytes and the heterogeneity of the presence in keratinocytes. How to choose the fee. 3. The method for selecting a cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the color unevenness is performed by using a color unevenness model created by morphing and comparing with the color unevenness model photograph. 4. The method for selecting a cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the selected cosmetic is a basic cosmetic. 5. The method according to claim 1, wherein an evaluation weight as an index is color unevenness of 0.6 to 0.8 with respect to the presence state of melanin of 0.2 to 0.4. A method for selecting a cosmetic according to claim 1.