JP2005283596A - Selecting method for make-up cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method of selecting easily and objectively a proper make-up cosmetic. <P>SOLUTION: The make-up cosmetic such as a foundation is selected, using an existence state of melanin and color irregularity in a skin, as indexes. A weight ratio relation between the existence state of melanin and the color irregularity is found using a regression expression obtained by multiple-regression-analyzing preliminarily an evaluation point A of digitalizing a difference in the existence state of melanin in a cuticle cell, an evaluation point B of digitalizing a difference in the color irregularity in a face, and beauty of the skin evaluated based on the evaluation point A, the evaluation point B, and an impression as the whole face, the evaluation point A and the evaluation point B are multiplied with the weight ratio to obtain an evaluation point C, and a make-up cosmetic is selected in response to a stage of the evaluation point C, according to the evaluation point C and a degree of covering power of the make-up cosmetics classified preliminarily into five stages. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for selecting a makeup cosmetic such as a foundation.

  The desire to dress beautifully is what everyone wants, not just women. For women, this desire is very important, and various makeup cosmetics have been developed. This is obvious when you look at the cosmetic stores in the town, and there are a lot of cosmetics on the shelves. For this reason, the current situation is that it is not easy to decide what makeup cosmetics should be selected. One of the important functions of such makeup cosmetics is to make skin troubles such as spots and freckles inconspicuous. There are a method of reducing the difference and making it less noticeable and a method of covering and concealing with a powder having a concealing power such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. For this reason, the problem of what makeup cosmetics should be used and how much more difficult arises. For this reason, as a method for selecting such makeup cosmetics, a method of selecting the skin color of the user as an index and selecting it as an index has been performed. The current situation was that nothing was done. That is, the current situation is that the relationship between the beautiful makeup finish that does not cause trouble and the covering power is not so clear. Further, the degree of this trouble is often judged subjectively by visual observation, but there is no known method for discriminating this objectively.

  On the other hand, it was not known at all that the unevenness of color and the presence of melanin at the application site were factors as the user's characteristics for selecting makeup cosmetics with appropriate covering power. .

  The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate makeup cosmetic.

  In view of such circumstances, the present inventors have sought for a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate makeup cosmetic, and as a result of intensive research efforts, the presence of melanin and uneven skin color It was found that it was very closely related to the appropriate covering power of makeup cosmetics, and by using this as an index, it was found that such a selection can be made, and the present invention was completed. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with a focus on embodiments.

(1) Presence state of melanin in stratum corneum Melanin is a pigment present in the epidermal tissue, but its existence form is variously different. For comparison of melanins having various forms of existence, for example, it is preferable to carry out classification based on the following criteria, since it can be classified fairly ecologically. That is, when classifying the existence state of melanin, it is to use two axes of heterogeneity with the existence amount in the keratinocytes and the variation of the existence as an index. Many methods have already been known for the discrimination of the presence state of such melanin, and these may be used. However, the most preferable method is a method devised by the present inventors to collect keratinocytes on an adhesive disk, transfer it onto a transparent adhesive tape, and stain it with silver nitrate and gentian violet. That is, the collected specimen was treated with silver staining solution prepared by dropping ammonia water into a 0.5% aqueous silver nitrate solution to adjust the pH to 10, treated at 45 ° C. for 10 minutes, stained with silver, washed three times with water, and then washed. Treated with 15% gentian violet solution for 10 minutes. In this method, the specimen is washed with water and dried, and a transparent silicone agent is poured so as to cover the dyed portion, a cover glass is placed on the sample, and the sample is observed with a microscope. The melanin abundance and the heterogeneity of the melanin thus measured both have a great influence on the observation impression of the melanin presence state, and the relationship is independent. In other words, the more melanin is present and the greater the non-uniformity is, the more the skin will be away from the beautiful skin, and the more appropriate it is to make up the skin. This eliminates the need for correction with makeup cosmetics. That is, the state of melanin can be used as an index by uniaxially determining the abundance and non-uniformity of melanin in the stratum corneum using a box model. Although it is very preferable to use this because it is easy to make a determination, it is also within the technical scope of the present invention that the presence state of melanin is uniaxially used as an index by other methods. An example of the box model axis is shown in FIG. As can be seen from this example, the presence of melanin can be clearly distinguished on this axis.

(2) Color unevenness In the method for selecting a makeup cosmetic according to the present invention, the degree of color unevenness of the skin is used as an index in addition to the presence state of the melanin. Skin color unevenness is a skin problem that should be corrected by makeup cosmetics, as well as the poor state of melanin, and it can be the basis of a truly beautiful cosmetic finish only when both are covered. The presence state of these melanins and the color unevenness are independent of each other, and each of them alone is a factor for an appropriate covering power. By combining these two, it is possible to select a more appropriate cover force. This is because the melanin in the stratum corneum is mainly microscopic and has background elements, whereas the color unevenness is more macroscopic, so the contribution to the appropriate covering power is large. When this is subjected to multivariate analysis by a test as shown in the examples described later, the weight ratio becomes 0.6 to 0.8 for color unevenness with respect to 0.2 to 0.4 for the presence state of melanin. If this weight is used to set an axis for an appropriate covering force, it becomes a selection criterion for an excellent makeup cosmetic. Here, color unevenness is evaluated. The evaluation method is to capture the facial appearance as an image into a computer, add binarization and other processing, obtain the distribution, or use computer morphing techniques to determine the color. It can be expressed as a numerical value by creating several non-uniform standard faces and comparing the standard face with the standard face. Even if this numerical value is calculated by comparison with the standard face with the naked eye, its reproducibility is extremely good and can be used as an objective numerical value. An example of a standard face with such color unevenness is shown in FIG. Table 1 below shows the results of determining the color unevenness of the faces of three panelists selected at random using three observers using this standard face. From this, it can be seen that even such a discrimination means has high reproducibility. Therefore, considering simplicity, it is preferable to distinguish color unevenness by such a method and use it as an index.

(3) Method for Selecting Makeup Cosmetics of the Present Invention The method for selecting makeup cosmetics of the present invention is characterized by the presence of melanin in skin corneocytes and color unevenness as indicators. As shown in the examples described later, the relationship between beautiful skin and the presence of melanin and color unevenness is (skin beauty) = 0.253 × (existing state of melanin in keratinocytes) + 0.936 × (skin Color unevenness) +1.354. That is, as shown in the examples described later, a plurality of people with different melanin presence and color unevenness in the keratinocytes of the skin are collected and made up with a plurality of makeup cosmetics having different covering powers. When it was investigated whether the most beautiful finish was obtained when using up cosmetics, the melanin presence state was calculated using the weighted ratio of the evaluation value of the presence state of melanin and the evaluation value of color unevenness in the keratinocytes of each panel. 2 to 0.4, the value of color unevenness 0.6 to 0.8, and if this numerical value is assumed to be a color tone smoothness, plotting this color tone smoothness and the most beautiful evaluation value of covering power, Excellent linear regression. This means that the balance between the covering power of makeup cosmetics and the presence of melanin is causally related to the beauty of the makeup finish. If the cover power does not cover the poor color tone smoothness (color tone malfunction), it will not look beautiful, and if the cover power is too much, it will stand out due to its thickness and unnaturalness, and the beauty of the finish will be lost. It means that it will be. Although the phenomenon itself is easy to understand, it has never been known that the main subject to be covered is the poor state of melanin and uneven color, and its numerical relationship is also completely known. It wasn't. By clarifying such numerical relationships, the present invention can be used to accurately select makeup cosmetics by observing the presence of melanin and color unevenness in the skin cells of the user's skin. it can. That is, with such a technique, if there is a keratinocyte specimen, an appropriate makeup cosmetic can be selected even if the person does not exist there, and an appropriate makeup cosmetic can be selected without subjectivity or prejudice. . The make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention uses a color tone smoothness index that takes into account the presence of melanin in skin keratinocytes and color unevenness according to the above formula, but in addition to this index, color preference and makeup It is also possible to make a more detailed selection by adding other selection evaluation axes such as an index of the relationship between the dosage form of the cosmetic preparation and the skin, and such selection is also within the technical scope of the present invention. .

  The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Example 1>
Using 334 randomly extracted female panelists (ages 16-71), keratinocytes were collected from the right cheek by the adhesive disk method, transferred to an adhesive tape, and this was added to a 0.5% silver nitrate aqueous solution. A silver dyeing solution in which ammonia water was added dropwise to adjust the pH to 10 was treated at 45 ° C. for 10 minutes for silver staining, then washed three times with water and treated with 0.15% gentian violet solution for 10 minutes. This specimen is washed with water and dried, and a transparent silicone agent is poured so as to cover the dyed portion, a cover glass is placed on the sample, and the sample is observed under a microscope. The rating was 5 (good). Moreover, the state of color unevenness was rated with a rating of 1 (bad) to 5 (good) using a standard panel of color unevenness shown in FIG. In addition, the overall beauty of the skin was evaluated with a rating of 1 (not beautiful) to 5 (beautiful). When these were subjected to multiple regression analysis, the multiple correlation coefficient was 0.6617 (skin beauty) = 0.253 × (existing state of melanin in keratinocytes) + 0.936 × (skin color unevenness) +1. It turned out that it has returned to the formula written by 354. The standard regression coefficient at this time was 0.198 for the presence of melanin in the corneocytes and 0.590 for color unevenness. That is, it can be seen that the weight ratio is 0.6 to 0.8 for color unevenness with respect to the presence state of 0.2 to 0.4 for melanin. Therefore, it can be seen that a beautiful cosmetic finish can be obtained by selecting a foundation having a covering power that can appropriately cover both the melanin and color unevenness in the keratinocytes, which are the skin beautifying factors. When the tone of color tone and the beauty of skin calculated according to this contribution ratio are plotted, as shown in FIG.

<Example 2>
The following five types of foundations having different cover powers were prepared, and an attempt was made to select a foundation suitable for the paneler using the above-mentioned multiple correlation equation. These foundation formulations are shown below. That is, using 250 female panelists selected at random, the color tone smoothness is calculated as in Example 1, and 1 or more, less than 2, 2 or more, less than 3, 3 or more, less than 4, 4 or more, less than 5, 5 or more (The lower the numerical value, the worse the color unevenness and melanin situation.) For each, select a foundation with a covering power of 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 and make up and cover power (by a specialist panel) Whether it is covered neatly or not) and the beauty of the finish. These results are shown in Tables 2 and 3. In addition, Tables 4 and 5 show the results of making up all the same panelists with a foundation having a covering power of 3 and evaluating the same. From these results, it can be seen that a beautiful finish adapted to an individual can be obtained by selecting a foundation based on the presence of color unevenness and melanin as an index.

(Foundation 1: Cover power 5)
The foundation was created according to the prescription shown below. That is, a, b, c, and d are heated to 80 ° C., knead ab and b well, added to c, diluted, dispersed, and gradually added d. Emulsified and cooled with stirring to obtain a foundation.
A 70% aqueous solution of maltitol 5 parts by weight Glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight B Triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight C Liquid paraffin 10 parts by weight Carnauba wax 12 parts by weight Microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight D Water 43 parts by weight Iron-doped titanium dioxide 8 parts by weight Zinc oxide 1 part by weight Titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight Yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 2: Coverage 4)
The foundation was created according to the prescription shown below. That is, a, b, c, and d are heated to 80 ° C., knead ab and b well, added to c, diluted, dispersed, and gradually added d. Emulsified and cooled with stirring to obtain a foundation.
70% aqueous solution of maltitol 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight rotriglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight carnauba wax 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight Water 43 parts by weight Phosphorus doped titanium dioxide 7 parts by weight zinc oxide 1 part by weight titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 1 part by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 3: Coverage 3)
The foundation was created according to the prescription shown below. That is, a, b, c, and d are heated to 80 ° C., knead ab and b well, added to c, diluted, dispersed, and gradually added d. Emulsified and cooled with stirring to obtain a foundation.
70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight rotriglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight 4 parts by weight 43 parts by weight Ferrous doped titanium dioxide 6 parts by weight Zinc oxide 1 part by weight Titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 2 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 4: Coverage 2)
The foundation was created according to the prescription shown below. That is, a, b, c, and d are heated to 80 ° C., knead ab and b well, added to c, diluted, dispersed, and gradually added d. Emulsified and cooled with stirring to obtain a foundation.
70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight rotriglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight Part II Water 43 parts Part by weight Fe-doped titanium dioxide 3 parts by weight Zinc oxide 1 part by weight Titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight Colored talc 5 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight Yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 5: Coverage 1)
The foundation was created according to the prescription shown below. That is, a, b, c, and d are heated to 80 ° C., knead ab and b well, added to c, diluted, dispersed, and gradually added d. Emulsified and cooled with stirring to obtain a foundation.
70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight rotriglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight Parts of water 43 parts by weight zinc phosphine 1 part by weight titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 8 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a method for objectively and easily selecting an appropriate makeup cosmetic.

It is a figure which shows the reference | standard of the presence state of melanin. It is a figure which shows the reference | standard of color nonuniformity. It is a figure which shows the relationship between the beauty of skin, and a color tone order degree.

Claims (2)

(1) Obtain a score (A) by the following process;
(I) The presence of melanin is “poor” as the amount of melanin is large and the heterogeneity of melanin is large, and the state of melanin is “excellent” as the amount of melanin is small and the heterogeneity of melanin is small The melanin presence state is divided into five stages according to superiority and inferiority, and an index is assigned in advance with a score according to superiority or inferiority in each stage.
(Ii) The collected keratinocytes are observed with a microscope, and by using the index of (i) above, the superiority or inferiority of the state of melanin in the collected keratinocytes is evaluated in the five stages of (i) above, and The given score is obtained as a score (A) that quantifies the superiority or inferiority of the state of melanin in the collected keratinocytes,
(2) Obtain a score (B) by the following process;
(I) Using the standard face of color unevenness created by morphing, it is divided into 5 stages according to the superiority or inferiority of the color unevenness state, and an index with a score corresponding to superiority or inferiority in each stage is prepared in advance.
(Ii) By comparing and observing the color unevenness state of the face with the color unevenness standard face and using the index of (i) above, the superiority or inferiority of the color unevenness state of the face is evaluated in the five stages of (i) above. The score given to the stage of obtaining is obtained as a score (B) that quantifies the superiority or inferiority of the color unevenness state of the face,
(3) Obtain a score (C) from the scores (A) and (B) by the following process;
(I) Multiple regression analysis is performed in advance on the scores (A) and (B) obtained in the same manner as in (1) or (2) above, and the skin beauty evaluated based on the impression of the entire face. Using the regression equation obtained, the relationship between the melanin presence state and the color unevenness is obtained,
(Ii) Score (C) (color tone smoothness) by multiplying the scores (A) and (B) obtained in (1) and (2) above by the weight ratio obtained in (i) above. And
(4) Make-up cosmetics are pre-classified into 5 levels according to the level of covering power,
The score (C) obtained in the above (3) is classified into five levels according to superiority and inferiority, and the score (C) (color tone smoothness) result is the worst (color unevenness or melanin is in the worst state) In the case of stage), make up cosmetics in stage 5 (the stage with the best covering power) and in stage 4 (the stage with the next best covering power) when the result of the grade (C) is the next bad For makeup cosmetics, if grade (C) is in the middle stage, make up cosmetics in stage 3 (medium covering ability), if grade (C) is good For makeup cosmetics in stage 2 (the stage that does not have much covering power), and stage 1 in the case where the result of the score (C) is the best (the stage where the presence of color unevenness and melanin is the best) Make-up (the stage with the least covering power) And characterized by selecting a cosmetic, selection method of make-up cosmetics.   The score (C) (color tone smoothness) is obtained by multiplying the score (A) by 0.2 to 0.4 and the score (B) by 0.8 to 0.6. The method for selecting a makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the makeup is a combined value.

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