JP3659818B2 - Method for measuring skin transparency - Google Patents
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【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、肌の透明感を鑑別する方法に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
皺、しみ、くすみ等、肌の悩み改善研究や肌を美しく見せる研究は大きな進展が見られそれによりスキンケア化粧品及びメーク品へと活用されている。しかしながら、一方、客観的評価法が確立出来ていないため、肌そのものを、より理想の肌、美しい肌に近づける研究は行われていないのが現状である。今後は、皺、しみ等の肌トラブルを改善したり、健康な肌を取り戻すという働きに加え、肌の透明感を増す、はりのある肌にする、つやの良い肌にする、みずみずしい肌を創る等、肌そのものの美しさを増す機能を持つ化粧品が強く求められている。この様なニーズに答えるために、肌の透明感を客観的にとらえる方法の開発がのぞまれていた。
【０００３】
前記透明感については、角層のバリアー機能との関係が示唆されており、ＮＭＦやＮＥＦと言ったこの様な機能を表すファクターが低下すると、かかる透明感も低下することが知られている。しかしながら、クリームなどの化粧料などによって油分を補い、前記ファクターを上昇させても、テカリが現れるものの、肌の美しい透明感の回復に至らないことも既に知られている。
【０００４】
メークアップ化粧料に於いて、微細な半透明粉体を多量に用いたメークアップ化粧料の仕上がりの透明感向上が著しいことは既に知られていることであるが、素肌に於ける透明感の向上の方法は未だ知られていない。
【０００５】
一方、肌の表面構造を解析することは既に行われているが、肌の表面構造、とりわけ凹凸の状況が透明感と関連を持っていることも、かかる肌表面の凹凸をサイズのレベル別に測定し、これらと透明感とを関連づけるような試みも全く為されていなかった。
【０００６】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、肌の透明感を客観的に鑑別する手段を提供することを課題とする。
【０００７】
【課題の解決手段】
この様な状況に鑑みて、本発明者らは鋭意研究努力を重ねた結果、角質細胞の表面形態、皮丘部の形態及び皮溝・皮丘の形態等の肌表面の凹凸を指標とすることにより、肌の透明感を客観的に鑑別しうることを見いだし、発明を完成させるに至った。以下、本発明について、実施の形態を中心に詳細に説明を加える。
【０００５】
【発明の実施の形態】
（１）本発明の肌の鑑別法
本発明の鑑別法は、肌表面の凹凸を指標とすることを特徴とする。肌の表面の凹凸の測定は、様々なレベルでの測定が可能であるが、本発明ではこれらの何れもが使用できる。これは、肌表面の凹凸形態が、大きなレベルから微小レベルに至るまで、フラクタル的な構造で構築されているからである。肌表面上に存在する凹凸形態をサイズ別に挙げてみると、１）角質細胞表面の形態、２）角質細胞レベルの形態、３）皮丘、皮溝レベルの形態が挙げられる。これらのレベルの肌の表面の凹凸形態は、それぞれ１）原子間力顕微鏡、２）レプリカと３次元画像処理装置、３）レプリカと画像解析装置を用いて測定できる。かくして測定された、表面の凹凸の形態は、後記実施例に示す如くに、肉眼的に認識される透明感（透明感評価値）との間に優れた相関性を有する。本発明では、これらの肌表面上に存在する形態を前記の如くサイズのレベル別に分類し、該分類のレベル毎に表面形態の凹凸を測定し、これより次に示す式に従って肌の透明度を算出することが出来る。これらのレベルの個々の値でも充分な相関性を有するが、この式によるものの方が相関係数が高く好ましい。
肌の透明感＝ー０．１２（皮丘、皮溝レベルの平均粗さ）ー０．２６（角質細胞レベルの平均粗さ）−０．０３（角質細胞表面の平均粗さ）＋８．０３
【０００６】
（２）角質細胞表面の形態
角質細胞表面の凹凸の形態とは、角質細胞１個１個が有する、細胞表面上の粗さを示すものである。角質細胞は図１に示す如く、決して滑らかな表面を有しておらず、その粗さを指標とするものである。粗さとしては、角質細胞１個１個の面平均粗さ、面最大高さ、最大高さ、平均粗さ、平均間隔等の数値で代表させることが出来る。これらの数値を、例えば、任意に選別した３〜７個の細胞について測定し、平均して得た平均値を用いることが好ましい。かかる測定は、走査電顕や原子間力顕微鏡等で測定することが出来る。これらの内では原子間力顕微鏡を用いるのが好ましい。
【０００７】
（３）角質細胞レベルの形態
角質細胞レベルの凹凸の形態とは、皮膚の皮丘部に於ける、並んだ角質細胞によって作り出される凹凸を意味し、これはレプリカの皮丘部の小範囲について、この形態を三次元画像処理装置に取り込み、これを解析することによって得ることが出来る。測定値としては、この三次元画像処理の面測定によって得られる、平均粗さ、自乗平均粗さ、最大高さ、谷の最大深さ、山の最大高さ等の数値として測定できる。これらの内で特に好ましいものは、平均粗さと自乗平均粗さである。これはこれらの相関係数が高いからである。
【０００８】
（４）皮丘、皮溝レベルの形態
皮丘、皮溝レベルの凹凸の形態とは、皮溝と皮丘からなるマクロ構造に於ける凹凸を意味し、これは、レプリカを画像解析装置を用いて、平均粗さとして、測定することが出来る。
【実施例】
以下に実施例を挙げて更に詳細に説明を加えるが、本発明がこれらの実施例のみ限定を受けないことは言うまでもない。
【０００７】
＜実施例１＞
角質細胞表面の形態と透明感の関係 を調べた。１０名のパネラーを選び出し、専門パネラー４名により、肌の透明感を１（非常に透明感がない）〜５（非常に透明感がある）の５段階で評価し、この人たちの頬部１ｃｍ×１ｃｍより角質細胞を採取し、この内５個について、原子間力顕微鏡で、面平均粗さ、面最大高さ、平均粗さ、最大高さ、平均間隔を求め、この数値を平均した。これらの値と透明感評価値との相関係数を求めたところ、次の表１に示す結果を得た。これより、これらの値は何れも肌の透明感評価値と良く相関していることがわかる。図１、２に透明評価値４の人の角質細胞と透明感評価値１．６の人の角質細胞の測定図を示す。
【０００８】
【表１】
＜実施例２＞
実施例１の１０名のパネラーを用いて、同様に、角質細胞レベルの形態と透明感との関係を頬部１ｃｍ×１ｃｍより採取したレプリカの皮丘部０．２ｍｍ×０．２ｍｍ範囲について３次元画像処理装置で表面形態を測定し、各レプリカ当たり５カ所の平均値を測定値とした。角質細胞レベルの凹凸と透明感視感評価値との相関係数を表２に示す。これよりこれらの値と透明感評価値の間に良好な相関関係が見られることがわかる。図３、図４に透明評価値３．８の人の角質細胞レベルの形態と透明感評価値１．６の人の角質細胞レベルの形態の図を示す。
【００１０】
【表２】
＜実施例３＞
実施例１、２と同様に、同じ１０名のパネラーを用いて、皮丘・皮溝レベルの形態と透明感との関係を調べた。即ち、頬部２．５ｍｍ×２．５ｍｍより採取したレプリカを画像解析装置を用いて、平均粗さを測定した。この値と透明感評価値との相関係数は−０．８６７であった。これより、この値と透明感の間には良好な相関関係があることがわかる。
【００１２】
＜実施例４＞
上記、実施例１〜３で求めた測定値と透明感評価値との関係について、重回帰分析を行った。その結果、重相関係数０．９３１で、次式に表される関係が成立することが判明した。尚、皮丘、皮溝レベルの平均粗さ、角質細胞レベルの平均粗さ、角質細胞表面の平均粗さのそれぞれの標準偏回帰係数は−０．４４、−０．１８、−０．４１であった。即ち、肌の透明感は、その肌の表面構造より、ー０．１２（皮丘、皮溝レベルの平均粗さ）ー０．２６（角質細胞レベルの平均粗さ）−０．０３（角質細胞表面の平均粗さ）＋８．０３で算出できることがわかる。
肌の透明感評価値＝ー０．１２（皮丘、皮溝レベルの平均粗さ）ー０．２６（角質細胞レベルの平均粗さ）−０．０３（角質細胞表面の平均粗さ）＋８．０３
【００１３】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、肌の透明感を客観的に鑑別する手段を提供することができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】 透明感評価値４．０の人の原子間力顕微鏡による角質細胞の図である。
【図２】 透明感評価値１．６の人の原子間力顕微鏡による角質細胞の図である。
【図３】 透明感評価値３．８の人の角質細胞レベルの形態を示す図である。
【図４】 透明感評価値１．６の人の角質細胞レベルの形態を示す図である。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method for distinguishing skin transparency.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Research on improving skin problems such as wrinkles, spots, dullness, and research to make the skin look beautiful has made great progress, and it has been utilized in skin care cosmetics and makeup products. However, on the other hand, since no objective evaluation method has been established, no study has been conducted to bring the skin itself closer to ideal skin and beautiful skin. In the future, in addition to improving skin troubles such as wrinkles and stains and restoring healthy skin, it will increase the transparency of the skin, make it a sticky skin, make it shiny, fresh skin, etc. There is a strong demand for cosmetics that have the ability to increase the beauty of the skin itself. In order to respond to such needs, development of a method for objectively capturing the transparency of the skin was desired.
[0003]
The transparency is suggested to be related to the barrier function of the stratum corneum, and it is known that when the factor representing such a function such as NMF or NEF is lowered, the transparency is also lowered. However, it is already known that even if the oil is supplemented with cosmetics such as cream and the factor is increased, shine appears but does not restore the beautiful transparency of the skin.
[0004]
In makeup cosmetics, it is already known that the improvement in the finish transparency of makeup cosmetics using a large amount of fine translucent powder is already known. The method of improvement is not yet known.
[0005]
On the other hand, analysis of the skin surface structure has already been done, but the skin surface structure, especially the unevenness condition, is related to transparency, and the skin surface unevenness is measured by size level. However, no attempt has been made to associate these with transparency.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a means for objectively distinguishing the skin transparency.
[0007]
[Means for solving problems]
In view of such a situation, the present inventors have made intensive research efforts, and as a result, the surface morphology of the corneocytes, the morphology of the dermis and the irregularities of the skin surface such as the morphology of the skin groove / skin, etc. As a result, it has been found that the transparency of the skin can be objectively differentiated, and the invention has been completed. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with a focus on embodiments.
[0005]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
(1) Skin discrimination method of the present invention The discrimination method of the present invention is characterized by using unevenness on the skin surface as an index. The unevenness of the skin surface can be measured at various levels, and any of these can be used in the present invention. This is because the uneven shape of the skin surface is constructed with a fractal structure from a large level to a minute level. When the uneven | corrugated form which exists on the skin surface is mentioned according to size, 1) The form of a keratinocyte surface, 2) The form of a keratinocyte level, 3) The form of a cuticle and a crevice level is mentioned. The unevenness of the skin surface at these levels can be measured using 1) an atomic force microscope, 2) a replica and a three-dimensional image processing device, and 3) a replica and an image analysis device, respectively. The surface irregularities thus measured have an excellent correlation with the visually perceived transparency (transparency evaluation value), as shown in Examples below. In the present invention, the forms existing on the skin surface are classified according to the size level as described above, the unevenness of the surface form is measured for each level of the classification, and the skin transparency is calculated according to the following formula. I can do it. Even individual values at these levels have sufficient correlation, but this formula is preferred because of its higher correlation coefficient.
Transparency of skin = −0.12 (average roughness of skin mound and skin groove level) −0.26 (average roughness of stratum corneum level) −0.03 (average roughness of stratum corneum surface) +8.03
[0006]
(2) Morphology of keratinocyte surface The shape of irregularities on the keratinocyte surface indicates the roughness on the cell surface of each keratinocyte. As shown in FIG. 1, keratinocytes never have a smooth surface, and their roughness is used as an index. The roughness can be represented by numerical values such as average surface roughness, maximum surface height, maximum height, average roughness, average interval, and the like for each corneocyte. It is preferable to use these average values obtained by, for example, measuring 3 to 7 cells arbitrarily selected and averaging them. Such measurement can be performed with a scanning electron microscope, an atomic force microscope, or the like. Of these, it is preferable to use an atomic force microscope.
[0007]
(3) Morphology at the stratum corneum level The shape of the corrugation at the stratum corneum level means the irregularities created by the stratum corneum in the cuticle of the skin. This form can be obtained by taking it into a three-dimensional image processing apparatus and analyzing it. The measured value can be measured as a numerical value such as average roughness, root mean square roughness, maximum height, maximum depth of valley, maximum height of mountain, etc. obtained by surface measurement of this three-dimensional image processing. Of these, average roughness and root mean square roughness are particularly preferable. This is because these correlation coefficients are high.
[0008]
(4) Morphology of skin, skin groove level, skin, unevenness of skin level means irregularities in the macro structure consisting of skins and skins. It can be measured as average roughness.
【Example】
Examples will be described below in more detail, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.
[0007]
<Example 1>
The relationship between the horny cell surface morphology and transparency was investigated. 10 panelists were selected and 4 professional panelists evaluated the skin's transparency on a scale of 1 (not very transparent) to 5 (very transparent). The corneocytes were collected from 1 cm × 1 cm, and about 5 of them, the surface average roughness, the maximum surface height, the average roughness, the maximum height, and the average interval were obtained with an atomic force microscope, and the numerical values were averaged. . When the correlation coefficient between these values and the transparency evaluation value was determined, the results shown in the following Table 1 were obtained. From this, it can be seen that these values are well correlated with the skin transparency evaluation value. FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 show measurement diagrams of a human corneocyte having a transparency evaluation value of 4 and a human corneocyte having a transparency evaluation value of 1.6.
[0008]
[Table 1]
<Example 2>
Similarly, using the 10 panelists of Example 1, the relationship between the morphology of the stratum corneum cell level and the translucency was similarly measured for a range of 0.2 mm × 0.2 mm of the replica skin that was collected from the cheek 1 cm × 1 cm. The surface morphology was measured with a three-dimensional image processing apparatus, and the average value at five locations for each replica was taken as the measured value. Table 2 shows the correlation coefficient between the horny cell level irregularities and the transparent visual evaluation value. This shows that a good correlation is observed between these values and the transparency evaluation value. FIG. 3 and FIG. 4 show a diagram of a human corneocyte level morphology with a transparency evaluation value of 3.8 and a human corneocyte level morphology with a transparency evaluation value of 1.6.
[0010]
[Table 2]
<Example 3>
In the same manner as in Examples 1 and 2, the same 10 panelists were used to examine the relationship between the form of the dermis / skin level and transparency. That is, the average roughness of a replica collected from the cheek 2.5 mm × 2.5 mm was measured using an image analyzer. The correlation coefficient between this value and the transparency evaluation value was -0.867. This shows that there is a good correlation between this value and transparency.
[0012]
<Example 4>
The multiple regression analysis was performed about the relationship between the measured value calculated | required in the said Examples 1-3 and a transparency evaluation value. As a result, it has been found that the relationship expressed by the following equation is established with a multiple correlation coefficient of 0.931. The standard partial regression coefficients of the average roughness of the skin mound, the skin groove level, the average roughness of the keratinocyte level, and the average roughness of the horny cell surface are −0.44, −0.18, and −0.41. Met. That is, the skin's translucency is based on the surface structure of the skin: -0.12 (average roughness at the skin mound and skin groove level) -0.26 (average roughness at the stratum corneum level) -0.03 (horny cell) It can be calculated that (average roughness of the cell surface) +8.03.
Skin transparency evaluation value = −0.12 (average roughness at skin mound and skin groove level) −0.26 (average roughness at stratum corneum level) −0.03 (average roughness at stratum corneum surface) +8 .03
[0013]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to provide means for objectively discriminating the transparency of skin.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a diagram of a keratinocyte obtained by an atomic force microscope of a person with a transparency evaluation value of 4.0.
FIG. 2 is a diagram of keratinocytes obtained by an atomic force microscope of a human with a transparency evaluation value of 1.6.
FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a form of a corneocyte level of a person with a transparency evaluation value of 3.8.
FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the morphology of a human corneocyte level with a transparency evaluation value of 1.6.
Claims (4)
原子間力顕微鏡によって測定される、角質細胞の表面の面平均粗さ、面最大高さ、平均粗さ、最大高さ及び平均間隔から選択される少なくとも１種、
レプリカ標本から、三次元画像処理装置によって測定される角層細胞レベルの平均粗さ、自乗平均粗さ、最大高さ、谷の最大深さ及び山の最大高さから選択される少なくとも１種、並びに、
レプリカ標本から画像解析装置によって測定される皮溝・皮丘部の平均粗さ、
とを算出し、
パネラーを第三者が観察し、評価した肌の透明感の評価値とを統計解析して回帰式を作成しておき、該回帰式に、
被験者の角質細胞標本又はレプリカ標本を作成し、該角質細胞標本から、
原子間力顕微鏡によって測定される、前記角質細胞の表面の面平均粗さ、面最大高さ、平均粗さ、最大高さ及び平均間隔から選択される少なくとも１種、
レプリカ標本から、三次元画像処理装置によって測定される、前記角層細胞レベルの平均粗さ、自乗平均粗さ、最大高さ、谷の最大深さ及び山の最大高さから選択される少なくとも１種、並びに、
レプリカ標本から画像解析装置によって測定される、前記皮溝・皮丘部の平均粗さ
とを測定して代入し、第三者が感じる、肌の透明感の評価値の推定値を算出することを特徴とする、第三者が感じる、肌の透明感の鑑別法（但し、医療目的を除く）。 Advance, using the panelists, creating a horny cell preparations or replica samples panelists, from the horny cell preparations,
At least one selected from the surface average roughness, the maximum surface height, the average roughness, the maximum height and the average interval of the surface of the corneocytes, measured by an atomic force microscope,
From the replica specimen, at least one kind selected from the average roughness of the stratum corneum cell level, the mean square roughness, the maximum height, the maximum depth of the valley, and the maximum height of the mountain as measured by the three-dimensional image processing device, And
The average roughness of the skin groove and hill part measured by the image analyzer from the replica specimen,
To calculate the door,
A third party observes the paneler and statistically analyzes the evaluated evaluation value of the transparency of the skin, and creates a regression equation. In the regression equation,
Create a keratinocyte specimen or replica specimen of the subject, from the keratinocyte specimen,
At least one selected from the surface average roughness, the maximum surface height, the average roughness, the maximum height and the average interval of the surface of the keratinocytes, as measured by an atomic force microscope,
At least one selected from a replica specimen, measured by a three-dimensional image processing device, from the mean roughness of the stratum corneum cell level, the mean square roughness, the maximum height, the maximum depth of the valley, and the maximum height of the mountain Species, and
The average roughness of the skin groove / cone part measured by an image analyzer from a replica specimen
Is a method for differentiating the skin transparency sensed by the third party (however, medical treatment , characterized by calculating an estimated value of the skin transparency evaluation value felt by the third party) Except for purpose).
肌の透明感の評価値＝−０．１２（レプリカ標本から画像解析装置によって測定される皮溝・皮丘部の平均粗さ）−０．２６（レプリカ標本から、三次元画像処理装置によって測定される表面の平均粗さ）−０．０３（原子間力顕微鏡によって測定される角層細胞表面の平均粗さ）＋８．０３ When the evaluation value of the transparency of the skin felt by the third party is a rating in a five-step evaluation ranging from transparent (score 5) to not transparent (score 1), The evaluation value of the transparency sensed by the three parties is calculated according to the following formula, as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the third party feels the skin transparency .
Evaluation value of skin transparency = −0.12 (average roughness of skin grooves and hills measured by image analysis apparatus from replica specimen) −0.26 (measured from replica specimen by three-dimensional image processing apparatus) Average surface roughness) −0.03 (average roughness of stratum corneum cell surface measured by atomic force microscope) +8.03
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| JP4502571B2 (en) * | 2002-10-07 | 2010-07-14 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | A method of distinguishing the tendency of makeup collapse |
| FR2856171B1 (en) * | 2003-06-13 | 2006-02-17 | Oreal | METHOD FOR COMPARING THE ASPECTS OF A REGION OF THE HUMAN BODY WITH AT LEAST TWO DIFFERENT MOMENTS |
| JP4800008B2 (en) * | 2005-11-11 | 2011-10-26 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | Skin beauty discrimination method |
| US10281267B2 (en) * | 2014-11-10 | 2019-05-07 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Method for evaluating flow of skin, method for examining skin glow improvers, and skin glow improver |
| JP2018057513A (en) * | 2016-10-03 | 2018-04-12 | 株式会社桃谷順天館 | Skin evaluation method, skin evaluation device, and skin improvement recommendation method |
| JP7356337B2 (en) * | 2019-12-23 | 2023-10-04 | 花王株式会社 | colored nonwoven fabric |
| JP7356336B2 (en) * | 2019-12-23 | 2023-10-04 | 花王株式会社 | Concave and convex plate for electrospinning method |
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| JP2904606B2 (en) * | 1991-04-02 | 1999-06-14 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | Skin surface morphology evaluation method and device therefor |
| JP3351958B2 (en) * | 1995-05-23 | 2002-12-03 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | Skin evaluation method |
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