JP2000204018A - Method of selecting makeup cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To easily select the most suitable makeup cosmetic by utilizing the abundance state of melanin in skin corneocytes as an indicator. SOLUTION: On melanin in skin corneocytes, the abundance state of melanin is discriminated, for example, by means of collecting the corneocytes on an adhesive disk, transferring this on a transparent adhesive tape, dyeing this with silver nitrate and gentian violet and so on. The abundance of melanin and the heterogeneity of the abundance are uniaxalized by the use of a box-type model. The makeup cosmetic is selected by using the covering power of the cosmetic as a standard in response to the abundance of melanin. Further, as the above covering power, the content of a hiding powder, e.g. titanium dioxide or the like, the transmittance of light in the case that a cosmetic is applied on a glass surface, or the like is usable. By these processes, the abundance state of melanin is observed. If there are corneocyte specimens, suitable makeup cosmetics can be selected even when the subject is absent.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for selecting a makeup cosmetic.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The desire to dress beautifully is something that is desired by everyone, not only women. In women, this desire is very important, and various makeup cosmetics have been developed. This is obvious at a cosmetics shop in the town, where shelves display a number of cosmetics. For this reason, at present, it is often difficult to decide what makeup cosmetics should be selected. One of the important functions of such makeup cosmetics is to make skin troubles such as spots and freckles less noticeable. There are a method of reducing the difference and making it less noticeable, and a method of covering and covering with a powder having a covering power such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. For this reason, the problem of what make-up cosmetics should be used and how to use them becomes even more difficult. For this reason, as a method of selecting such a makeup cosmetic, a method of selecting the user's skin color as an index and selecting this as an index has been performed, but regarding the problem of the other covering power, At present, nothing has been done. That is, at present, the relationship between the beautiful cosmetic finish with no noticeable trouble and the covering power is not so clear. Furthermore, the degree of this trouble is often judged visually and subjectively, but at present, there is no known method of objectively discriminating this.

[0003]

The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and it is an object of the present invention to provide means for easily selecting a suitable makeup cosmetic.

[0004]

In view of such a situation, the present inventors have sought a means for selecting a suitable makeup cosmetic, and as a result of diligent research efforts, have found the presence of melanin in the keratinocytes of the skin. By using the state as an index, they have found that such a selection can be easily made, and have completed the invention. Such a choice, especially focusing on coverage,
It has also been found that the makeup cosmetics are suitable for selection. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail focusing on embodiments.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION (1) Existence of melanin in the stratum corneum Melanin is a pigment present in epidermal tissue, but its form is variously different. For comparison of melanin having various existing forms, for example, it is preferable to perform the following criterion, since a considerably ecologically suitable classification can be performed. That is, when classifying the state of presence of melanin, two axes of non-uniformity using the abundance of the melanin in keratinocytes and the variation in the presence as an index are used. Many methods have already been known for such a melanin presence state, and any of these methods may be used. However, the most preferred method is a method devised by the present inventors, in which keratinocytes are collected on an adhesive disk, transferred to a transparent adhesive tape, and stained with silver nitrate and gentian violet. In other words, the collected sample is 0.5%
Aqueous ammonia was added dropwise to an aqueous silver nitrate solution, and the mixture was treated with a silver staining solution adjusted to pH 10 at 45 ° C. for 10 minutes to perform silver staining, then washed three times with water and treated with a 0.15% gentian violet solution for 10 minutes. In this method, the specimen is washed with water, dried, poured with a transparent silicone agent so as to cover the stained portion, placed on a cover glass to form a sample, and observed under a microscope. The abundance of melanin and the heterogeneity of its presence, which are measured in this way, have a great influence on the observation impression of the state of melanin, and the relationship is independent.
In other words, the more the amount of melanin and the greater the non-uniformity, the more the skin separates from the beautiful skin, and the more it is required to make up by make-up. Conversely, the smaller the amount of melanin and the less the non-uniformity, the more beautiful skin The correction with makeup makeup is not so necessary. That is,
The melanin state can be used as an index by uniaxializing the abundance and heterogeneity of melanin in the stratum corneum using a box model. It is very preferable to use this because it is easy to make a determination, but it is also within the technical scope of the present invention to uniaxialize the presence state of melanin by another method and use it as an index. FIG. 1 shows an example of the box-shaped model axis. As can be seen from this example, the presence of melanin can be clearly distinguished on this axis.

(2) Makeup cosmetics selected by the selection method of the present invention The makeup cosmetics selected by the selection method of the makeup cosmetics of the present invention are not particularly limited as long as they are makeup cosmetics. Although it can be applied without any problem, it is particularly preferable to apply it to a base makeup cosmetic, which most affects the cover for the skin trouble. Such base makeup cosmetics include, for example, under makeup,
Examples include foundations, pressed powders, face powders, two-way cakes, spots covers, highlights, and the like. As a classification criterion for selecting such a makeup cosmetic, it is preferable to use the covering power. Covering power is a general concept used to express the characteristics of makeup cosmetics, usually as an index of how much the skin can be hidden, and is usually based on sensual evaluation.
The characteristics are often classified, and the factors such as the type of powder contained in the makeup cosmetic and its content, good spreadability, good physical properties caused by formulation characteristics such as good stoppage, etc. It is known to be affected by As a substitute characteristic value of the covering power, it is possible to use the content of opaque powder such as titanium dioxide, the transmittance of light when the cosmetic is uniformly applied to the glass surface using a doctor blade, or the like. Although it is possible, a preferred method is to use the degree of skin trouble coverage as a sensory evaluation as an index according to the actual situation. Even in the case of such a sensory evaluation, an objective numerical value can be set by setting several samples as a standard and comparing them with numerical values. It is particularly preferred to use such a number as a classification criterion for selection, as this number includes various coverage factors. By classifying makeup makeup in advance based on the covering power and selecting the above-mentioned melanin presence state in accordance with an index, an appropriate makeup makeup can be selected.

(3) Method for Selecting Make-Up Cosmetic of the Present Invention The method for selecting a make-up cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by using the state of melanin in keratinocytes of the skin as an index. That is, as shown in Examples described later, a plurality of persons having different states of melanin in the keratinocytes of the skin were collected, made up with a plurality of make-up cosmetics having different covering powers, and which make-up cosmetic was used. When examining whether or not the most beautiful finish is obtained, when the evaluation value of the presence of melanin in the keratinocytes of each paneler and the evaluation value of the most beautiful covering power are plotted, excellent linear regression is performed. This means that the balance between the covering power of the makeup cosmetic and the presence of melanin has a causal relationship with the beauty of the cosmetic finish. If the covering power is not enough to cover the poor state of melanin, it will not look beautiful.If the covering power is too much, the thickness and unnaturalness will be more noticeable and the beauty of the finish will be impaired. means. Although the phenomenon itself was easy to understand, it was not known at all that the main subject to be covered was the poor state of melanin, and its numerical relationship was not known at all. . By clarifying such a numerical relationship, by using the present invention, by observing the state of melanin in the skin keratinocytes of the user, a makeup cosmetic can be accurately selected. That is, by such a technique, if there is a keratinocyte specimen, an appropriate makeup cosmetic can be selected even if the person does not exist there, and an appropriate makeup cosmetic can be selected in a state where subjective and prejudice are removed. . In addition, the makeup cosmetic of the present invention uses the presence state of melanin in the skin keratinocytes as an index. In addition to this index, an index of the taste of the color or the relationship between the dosage form of the makeup cosmetic and the skin, etc. It is also possible to make more detailed selections by adding other selection evaluation axes, and such selections also belong to the technical scope of the present invention.

[0008]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Example 1> 1 to 5 foundations having the following prescriptions and having different covering powers were prepared, and given a rating of 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 from the lower covering power. From the randomly selected 43 female panelists aged 29 to 56, keratinocytes were collected from the cheeks by the adhesive disc-tape transfer method, and melanin and cells were stained with silver and gentian violet. The scores were given according to the evaluation criteria in which the amount and the heterogeneity of melanin were uniaxialized by a box model shown. After making up the panelists with a foundation of 5 hands, the beauty of the make-up finish is evaluated by five expert panelists from very beautiful (score 5) to not very beautiful (score 1).
The average of the person's score was calculated. The covering power evaluation value of the foundation having the most beautiful finish among the five foundations was defined as the person's optimum covering power index. When plotting the melanin evaluation value obtained in this way on the Y axis and the optimal coverage evaluation value on the X axis,
The result was as shown in FIG. This plot shows a correlation coefficient of 0.
At 7975, it was regressed to the equation of Y = 0.8181X + 0.6667. From this, it can be seen that the covering power of the appropriate makeup cosmetic and the melanin state evaluation value are well correlated. Therefore, it can be seen from the state evaluation value of melanin that an appropriate makeup cosmetic can be selected using the covering power as a selection reference value.

(Foundation 1: Covering power 5) A foundation was prepared according to the following recipe. That is, a, b, c, and d are each heated to 80 ° C., kneaded well with b and b, diluted by adding c to this, and dispersed by e, and gradually added to this. Emulsify, stir and cool,
Got a foundation. A 70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight b triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight c liquid paraffin 10 parts by weight carnauba wax 12 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight D Water 43 parts by weight E Iron-doped titanium dioxide 8 parts by weight Zinc oxide 1 part by weight Titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight Yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 2: Covering power 4) A foundation was prepared according to the following recipe. That is, a, b, c, and d are each heated to 80 ° C., kneaded well with b and b, diluted by adding c to this, and dispersed by e, and gradually added to this. Emulsify, stir and cool,
Got a foundation. A 70% maltitol aqueous solution 5 parts by weight Glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight b Triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight C Liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight Carnauba wax 7 parts by weight Microcrystalline wax 3 parts by weight D Water 43 parts by weight E Iron-doped titanium dioxide 7 parts by weight Zinc oxide 1 part by weight Titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight Colored talc 1 part by weight Bengala 1 part by weight Yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 3: Covering power 3) A foundation was prepared according to the following recipe. That is, a, b, c, and d are each heated to 80 ° C., kneaded well with b and b, diluted by adding c to this, and dispersed by e, and gradually added to this. Emulsify, stir and cool,
Got a foundation. A 70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight b triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight c liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 Parts by weight d water 43 parts by weight e iron-doped titanium dioxide 6 parts by weight zinc oxide 1 part by weight titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 2 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 4: Covering power 2) A foundation was prepared according to the following recipe. That is, a, b, c, and d are each heated to 80 ° C., kneaded well with b and b, diluted by adding c to this, and dispersed by e, and gradually added to this. Emulsify, stir and cool,
Got a foundation. A 70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight b triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight c liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 Parts by weight d water 43 parts by weight iron doped titanium dioxide 3 parts by weight zinc oxide 1 part by weight titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 5 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

(Foundation 5: Covering power 1) A foundation was prepared according to the following recipe. That is, a, b, c, and d are each heated to 80 ° C., kneaded well with b and b, diluted by adding c to this, and dispersed by e, and gradually added to this. Emulsify, stir and cool,
Got a foundation. A 70% aqueous maltitol solution 5 parts by weight glycerin 2 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight b triglycerin diisostearate 5 parts by weight c liquid paraffin 15 parts by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 7 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 3 Parts by weight d water 43 parts by weight zinc oxide 1 part by weight titanium dioxide 4 parts by weight colored talc 8 parts by weight Bengala 1 part by weight yellow iron oxide 1 part by weight

[0015]

According to the present invention, means for easily selecting a suitable makeup cosmetic can be provided.

[Brief description of the drawings]

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a diagram showing box-shaped evaluation criteria for the amount of melanin and heterogeneity.

FIG. 2 is a plot diagram showing the relationship between the optimum coverage of the foundation of Example 1 and melanin evaluation values.

Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Yoshikazu Hirai 27-1 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa Prefecture F-term in the POLA Yokohama Research Institute (reference) 4C083 CC11 CC12 EE50

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A method for selecting a makeup cosmetic, characterized by using the state of melanin in keratinocytes of the skin as an index. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the presence of melanin in the keratinocytes of the skin is the amount of melanin.
3. A method for selecting a makeup cosmetic according to item 1. 3. The method for selecting a makeup cosmetic according to claim 2, further comprising using the non-uniformity of the presence of melanin as an index. 4. The method for selecting a makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the classification criterion for selecting the makeup cosmetic is coverage.