ITMI20072063A1 - MULTIFUNCTIONAL COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE CARE AND THE WELL-BEING OF THE SKIN - Google Patents
MULTIFUNCTIONAL COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE CARE AND THE WELL-BEING OF THE SKIN Download PDFInfo
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Description
Descrizione dell’invenzione industriale dal titolo: Description of the industrial invention entitled:
“Composizioni cosmetiche multifunzionali per la cura e il benessere della cute” "Multifunctional cosmetic compositions for skin care and well-being"
CAMPO DELL’INVENZIONE FIELD OF THE INVENTION
La presente invenzione concerne composizioni cosmetiche per la protezione, la cura e il benessere della cute. The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the protection, care and well-being of the skin.
STATO DELLA TECNICA STATE OF THE TECHNIQUE
E’ noto che la cute è composta da diverse strati: l’epidermide, che è Io strato più esterno, il derma, che costituisce l’impalcatura deH’epidermide ed è altamente vascolarizzato e l’ipoderma o strato sottocutaneo che condivide con il derma diverse funzioni, quali quelle protettive della cute. La maggior parte delle composizioni cosmetiche attualmente in commercio sono formulate in modo tale che gli ingredienti attivi in esse presenti riescono a svolgere le loro funzioni solo sugli strati superficiali della cute, ossia a livello dell’epidermide, non riuscendo a raggiungere gli strati più profondi del derma. It is known that the skin is composed of different layers: the epidermis, which is the outermost layer, the dermis, which constitutes the scaffolding of the epidermis and is highly vascularized and the hypodermis or subcutaneous layer which shares with the dermis. different functions, such as the protective ones of the skin. Most of the cosmetic compositions currently on the market are formulated in such a way that the active ingredients present in them are able to perform their functions only on the superficial layers of the skin, i.e. at the level of the epidermis, failing to reach the deeper layers of the skin. dermis.
La ricerca intensa di mezzi di trasporto per veicolare ingredienti attivi di interesse nel derma ha portato alla realizzazione di specifici mezzi veicolanti caratterizzati da proprietà idrofile e lipofile, che da un lato permettono di far superare la barriera del derma all’ingrediente attivo di interesse e, dall’altro lato, lo mantengono stabile nella formulazione iniziale. Tali formulazioni, evidentemente complesse, sono tuttavia specifiche e limitate a svolgere selettive proprietà funzionali derivanti dall’ ingrediente attivo veicolato. The intense search for means of transport to convey active ingredients of interest into the dermis has led to the creation of specific means of transport characterized by hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, which on the one hand allow the barrier of the dermis to be overcome by the active ingredient of interest and, on the other hand, they keep it stable in the initial formulation. These formulations, obviously complex, are however specific and limited to carrying out selective functional properties deriving from the active ingredient conveyed.
E’ pertanto sentita l’esigenza di avere un prodotto per la cute che sia in grado di combattere efficacemente tutte le cause che generano le varie problematiche dermatologiche sia a livello del derma che a livello deH’epidemnide, quali ad esempio fenomeni patologici, fenomeni irritativi, precoce e/o naturale invecchiamento cutaneo. The need is therefore felt to have a product for the skin that is able to effectively combat all the causes that generate the various dermatological problems both at the level of the dermis and at the level of the epidemnide, such as pathological phenomena, irritative phenomena. , premature and / or natural skin aging.
Scopo della presente invenzione è pertanto quello di fornire composizioni cosmetiche contraddistinte da attività diversificate sulla cute, ossia composizioni cosmetiche che riescano a svolgere funzioni di prevenzione, protezione e cura sia a livello dell’epidermide che a livello del derma. The purpose of the present invention is therefore to provide cosmetic compositions characterized by diversified activities on the skin, i.e. cosmetic compositions that are able to perform prevention, protection and care functions both at the level of the epidermis and at the level of the dermis.
SOMMARIO SUMMARY
Lo scopo più sopra è stato raggiunto attraverso una composizione cosmetica comprendente almeno un ingrediente attivo di ognuna delle seguenti classi di ingredienti attivi nelle rispettive percentuali in peso rispetto al peso alla composizione finale: The above purpose has been achieved through a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient of each of the following classes of active ingredients in the respective percentages by weight with respect to the weight of the final composition:
Classi % IN PESO Classes% BY WEIGHT
Immunoattivatori 1 - 5 Immunoactivators 1 - 5
Agenti Preventivi 5 -25 Preventive Agents 5 -25
Agenti Protettivi 5 -25 Protective Agents 5 -25
Agenti Riparatori 1 - 10 Repair Agents 1 - 10
Agenti Idratanti 1 - 30 Moisturizing Agents 1 - 30
Agenti Antiossidanti 5 - 25 Antioxidant Agents 5 - 25
Emollienti 5 -25 Emollients 5 -25
Nutrienti 5 - 25 Nutrients 5 - 25
Agenti Acidificanti 1 - 12 Acidifying Agents 1 - 12
Conservanti 0 -2, Preservatives 0 -2,
essendo il rimanente acqua. the remaining being water.
Nella presente invenzione, quando si impiega il termine: In the present invention, when the term is used:
“Immunoattivatore” si intende un agente in grado di attivare il sistema immunitario; “Immuno-activator” means an agent capable of activating the immune system;
“agente preventivo” si intende un agente in grado di rafforzare le difese immunitarie; "Preventive agent" means an agent capable of strengthening the immune defenses;
“agente protettivo” si intende un agente in grado di esercitare una azione di prevenzione dalle aggressioni esterne quali ad esempio agenti patogeni (batteri, funghi), raggi solari, smog, agenti chimici, agenti irritanti. "Protective agent" means an agent capable of exerting a preventive action from external aggressions such as pathogens (bacteria, fungi), sunlight, smog, chemical agents, irritants.
“agente riparatore” si intende un agente in grado di esercitare una azione di riparazione nei confronti di patologie dermatologiche in essere (dermatiti, arrossamenti, irritazioni, secchezza, disidratazione, desquamazione, pruriti) e nei confronti di danni causati dai vari agenti aggressori esterni. "Repairing agent" means an agent capable of exerting a repairing action against existing dermatological diseases (dermatitis, redness, irritation, dryness, dehydration, flaking, itching) and against damage caused by various external aggressors.
“agente idratante” si intende un agente in grado di migliorare e/o mantenere la idratazione dei diversi strati della cute; "Moisturizing agent" means an agent capable of improving and / or maintaining the hydration of the different layers of the skin;
“agenti antiossidante” si intende un agente in grado di prevenire le reazione di ossidazione a livello della cute; "Antioxidant agents" means an agent capable of preventing oxidation reactions in the skin;
“emolliente” si intende un agente che può vantare la proprietà di elevare il contenuto lipidico del film dermoprotettivo epicutaneo; “Emollient” means an agent that can boast the property of elevating the lipid content of the skin-protective epicutaneous film;
“nutriente” si intende un agente in grado di apportare nutrimento alle cellule della cute; "Nourishing" means an agent capable of providing nourishment to the skin cells;
“agente acidificante” si intende un agente in grado di fornire una acidità desiderata alla composizione finale e di riequilibrare il pH della pelle; “conservante” si intende un agente che aggiunto ad una composizione impedisce o ritarda l’alterazione della formulazione finale. "Acidifying agent" means an agent capable of providing a desired acidity to the final composition and rebalancing the pH of the skin; "Preservative" means an agent that added to a composition prevents or delays the alteration of the final formulation.
La composizione cosmetica secondo l’invenzione comprende vantaggiosamente un insieme equilibrato e selezionato di ingredienti attivi dermofunzionali. The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a balanced and selected set of dermofunctional active ingredients.
Inoltre, la composizione cosmetica secondo l’invenzione è in grado di svolgere attività dermatologiche funzionali sia nell’epidermide che nel derma, quindi di normalizzare e migliorare la fisiologia della cute e delle sue difese protettive, svolgendo azioni dermofunzionali quali prevenzione, protezione, reidratazione, riparazione, rigenerazione, sebonormalizzazione, pH autoregolazione. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is able to perform functional dermatological activities both in the epidermis and in the dermis, therefore to normalize and improve the physiology of the skin and its protective defenses, carrying out dermofunctional actions such as prevention, protection, rehydration, repair, regeneration, sebum normalization, pH self-regulation.
DESCRIZIONE DETTAGLIATA DELL’INVENZIONE DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Le caratteristiche ed i vantaggi della formulazione secondo la seguente invenzione saranno maggiormente evidenziati nel corso della seguente descrizione dettagliata data a titolo esemplificativo e non limitativo dell’invenzione. The characteristics and advantages of the formulation according to the following invention will be further highlighted in the course of the following detailed description given by way of non-limiting example of the invention.
La composizione cosmetica secondo l’invenzione comprende almeno un ingrediente attivo di ognuna delle seguenti classi di ingredienti attivi: immunoattivatori, agenti preventivi, agenti protettivi, agenti riparatori, agenti idratanti, agenti antiossidanti, emollienti, nutrienti, agenti acidificanti e conservanti. The cosmetic composition according to the invention includes at least one active ingredient of each of the following classes of active ingredients: immuno-activators, preventive agents, protective agents, repairing agents, moisturizing agents, antioxidants, emollients, nutrients, acidifying agents and preservatives.
Preferibilmente, l’almeno un ingrediente attivo tra gli immunoattivatori è beta-glucano decarbossilato, il quale è un attivatore delle cellule del sistema immunitario, in particolare le cellule del Langerhans. Preferably, the at least one active ingredient among the immunoactivators is beta-glucan decarboxylate, which is an activator of the cells of the immune system, in particular the Langerhans cells.
L’almeno un agente preventivo è scelto preferibilmente dal gruppo consistente in vitamina F, acido linoleico, olio di vinacciolo, olio di canapa, titanio biossido, zinco ossido e loro miscele. The at least one preventive agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of vitamin F, linoleic acid, grape seed oil, hemp oil, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and their mixtures.
L’almeno un agente protettivo è scelto dal gruppo consistente in composti retinoidi (quali ad esempio vitamina A), vitamine del gruppo B, del gruppo D e del gruppo PP, zinco ossido, allantoina, bisabololo, acido glicerretico, acido chetoglutarico, estratto di Bacopa Manniera, estratto di Undaria Pinnatifida e loro miscele. Ognuno degli agenti protettivi preferiti svolge una specifica azione protettiva: per esempio lo zinco ossido e l’allantoina svolgono azione cicatrizzante, il bisabololo possiede attività lenitiva, acido glicerretico ha attività addolcente, l'estratto di bacopa monniera presenta funzione disarrosante e estratto di undaria pinnatifida è un inibitore della jaluronidasi. The at least one protective agent is selected from the group consisting of retinoid compounds (such as vitamin A), vitamins of group B, group D and group PP, zinc oxide, allantoin, bisabolol, glycerretic acid, ketoglutaric acid, extract of Bacopa Manniera, Undaria Pinnatifida extract and their mixtures. Each of the preferred protective agents carries out a specific protective action: for example zinc oxide and allantoin perform a healing action, bisabolol has a soothing activity, glycerretic acid has a softening activity, bacopa monniera extract has a de-reddening function and undaria pinnatifida extract is a hyaluronidase inhibitor.
Tra gli agenti riparatori, nella presente composizione, viene preferibilmente compreso un ingrediente attivo scelto da beta-glucano decarbossilato per la sua funzione di attivatore delle cellule epidermiche, acido jaluronico per la sua funzione di rigeneratore cellulare, il palmitoil oligopeptide per la sua attività di stimolazione della sintesi del collagene e loro miscele. Among the repairing agents, in the present composition, an active ingredient is preferably included selected from beta-glucan decarboxylated for its function as an activator of epidermal cells, hyaluronic acid for its function as a cell regenerator, palmitoyl oligopeptide for its stimulation activity of collagen synthesis and their mixtures.
L’almeno un agente idratante è preferibilmente scelto dal gruppo consistente in acido jaluronico a ridotto peso molecolare, glicerolo, N.M.F. (ossia Naturai Moisturizing Factor, che comprende come elemento essenziale una miscela di acido pirrolidincarbossilico, urea e aminoacidi essenziali) e estratto di aloe vera e loro miscele. Più preferibilmente, tale agente idratante è acido jaluronico, ancor più preferibilmente nella forma di microcapsule, che facilitano il raggiungimento del derma. Specificatamente dette microcapsule comprendono generalmente pareti in polisaccaride e contengono all’interno l’acido jaluronico. The at least one moisturizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, glycerol, N.M.F. (i.e. Naturai Moisturizing Factor, which includes as an essential element a mixture of pyrrolidinarboxylic acid, urea and essential amino acids) and aloe vera extract and their mixtures. More preferably, this moisturizing agent is hyaluronic acid, even more preferably in the form of microcapsules, which facilitate reaching the dermis. Specifically, said microcapsules generally comprise polysaccharide walls and contain hyaluronic acid inside.
Tra gli agenti antiossidanti, l’almeno un ingrediente attivo è scelto dal gruppo consistente in vitamina E, vitamina C, acido lipoico, ubiquinone, coenzima Q10, olio germe di grano e loro miscele. Preferibilmente l’ingrediente attivo della classe degli agenti antiossidanti è un miscela comprendente vitamina E, vitamina C, acido lipoico, ubiquinone, coenzima Q10 e olio germe di grano. Among the antioxidant agents, the at least one active ingredient is chosen from the group consisting of vitamin E, vitamin C, lipoic acid, ubiquinone, coenzyme Q10, wheat germ oil and their mixtures. Preferably, the active ingredient of the class of antioxidant agents is a mixture comprising vitamin E, vitamin C, lipoic acid, ubiquinone, coenzyme Q10 and wheat germ oil.
Come ingredienti attivi tra gli agenti emollienti sono adatti tutti ingredienti attivi che possono vantare la proprietà di elevare il contenuto lipidico del film dermoprotettivo epicutaneo. Preferibilmente l’almeno un ingrediente attivo è uno o una miscela di oli di origine vegetale, più preferibilmente olio mandorle, olio di oliva, olio di canapa e olio di vinaccioli. As active ingredients among the emollient agents all active ingredients are suitable which can boast the property of elevating the lipid content of the skin protective film. Preferably the at least one active ingredient is one or a mixture of oils of vegetable origin, more preferably almond oil, olive oil, hemp oil and grape seed oil.
Nella classe dei nutrienti, l’ingrediente attivo preferito secondo l’invenzione è scelto dal gruppo consistente in burro karitè, olio jojoba, cera d’api e ceramidi vegetali e loro miscele. In the class of nutrients, the preferred active ingredient according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of shea butter, jojoba oil, beeswax and vegetable ceramides and their mixtures.
Gli agenti acidificanti, che sono adatti alla invenzione devono fornire una acidità desiderata alla composizione finale e di conseguenza al pH della cute, ma, contemporaneamente, non devono aggredire la cute. Nella classe degli agenti acidificanti, sono preferiti estratti e/o acidi di origine vegetale, quali estratti vegetali di timo, salvia, malva, camomilla e/o gli idrossiacidi vegetali tra cui acido lattico vegetale, acido citrico, acido malico e acido glicolico. The acidifying agents, which are suitable for the invention must provide a desired acidity to the final composition and consequently to the pH of the skin, but, at the same time, they must not attack the skin. In the class of acidifying agents, extracts and / or acids of vegetable origin are preferred, such as vegetable extracts of thyme, sage, mallow, chamomile and / or vegetable hydroxy acids including vegetable lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid and glycolic acid.
Nella composizione secondo l’invenzione possono essere presenti ingredienti attivi conservanti noti, la cui scelta è determinata sulla base del contenuto di acqua e di lipidi insaturi presenti nella formulazione, della purezza dei ingredienti attivi, del metodo di lavorazione e del tipo di confezionamento. Preferibilmente, l’ingrediente attivo conservante, quando presente, è una miscela glicerolo/glicol esilenico, uno o più sali di argento (ad esempio argento citrato) imidazolilurea, fenossietanolo e i derivati dell’acido paraossibenzoico In the composition according to the invention, known preservative active ingredients may be present, the choice of which is determined on the basis of the content of water and unsaturated lipids present in the formulation, the purity of the active ingredients, the processing method and the type of packaging. Preferably, the preservative active ingredient, when present, is a glycerol / hexylene glycol mixture, one or more silver salts (for example silver citrate), imidazolylurea, phenoxyethanol and paraoxybenzoic acid derivatives
Convenientemente la composizione cosmetica secondo l’invenzione può comprendere un ingrediente attivo appartenente a più classi, il quale verrà aggiunto alla composizione nelle quantità pari alla somma delle rispettive quantità per classe. Ad esempio, la composizione secondo l’invenzione può comprendere il beta-glucano decarbossilato sia come immunoattivatore che come riparatore in una percentuale in peso da 2 a 15 rispetto al peso della composizione finale. Conveniently, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise an active ingredient belonging to several classes, which will be added to the composition in quantities equal to the sum of the respective quantities per class. For example, the composition according to the invention can comprise the decarboxylated beta-glucan both as an immuno-activator and as a repairer in a weight percentage from 2 to 15 with respect to the weight of the final composition.
La composizione cosmetica secondo l’invenzione viene pertanto impiegata per preparare creme, unguenti, preparati liquidi da veicolare sulla pelle. Preferibilmente, la composizione secondo l’invenzione viene veicolata sulla cute nella forma di una crema. Più preferibilmente detta crema sarà un emulsione acqua/olio in cui almeno il 20% è costituito da ingredienti di natura lipidica e convenientemente conterrà come agente idratante l’acido jaluronico microincapsulato. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is therefore used to prepare creams, ointments, liquid preparations to be conveyed on the skin. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is delivered on the skin in the form of a cream. More preferably, said cream will be a water / oil emulsion in which at least 20% consists of ingredients of a lipid nature and conveniently will contain microencapsulated hyaluronic acid as a moisturizing agent.
Senza essere legati ad alcuna teoria, gli inventori della presente invenzione ritengono di avere raggiunto il loro scopo attraverso una selezione delle classi di ingredienti attivi in funzione delle loro caratteristiche dermatologiche, delle loro attività funzionali, delle loro caratteristiche chimico-fisiche. I criteri di selezione hanno permesso quindi di ottenere, sorprendentemente, composizioni stabili sia di ingredienti attivi idrosolubili e liposolubili, in grado di agire sugli strati deirepidermide, che principi attivi liposolubili e idrosolubili, in grado di agire sugli strati cutanei profondi. Without being bound to any theory, the inventors of the present invention believe that they have achieved their aim through a selection of the classes of active ingredients according to their dermatological characteristics, their functional activities, their chemical-physical characteristics. The selection criteria have therefore made it possible to surprisingly obtain stable compositions of both water-soluble and fat-soluble active ingredients, capable of acting on the skin layers, and fat-soluble and water-soluble active ingredients, capable of acting on the deep skin layers.
A scopo illustrativo, ma non limitativo, seguono alcuni esempi di preparazione di creme attraverso l’uso delle composizioni dell’invenzione. For illustrative, but not limiting purposes, some examples of the preparation of creams through the use of the compositions of the invention follow.
Esempio 1: Preparazione di una crema grassa. Example 1: Preparation of a fat cream.
Sono stati impiegati i seguenti ingredienti attivi nelle quantità indicate in Tabella 1. The following active ingredients were used in the amounts indicated in Table 1.
Tabella 1: Ingredienti attivi dell’esempio 1 Table 1: Active ingredients of example 1
Gli ingredienti attivi, a seconda della loro natura lipofila o idrofila, sono stati impiegati per la preparazione di una fase acquosa e di una oleosa come da tabella. Le due fasi sono state quindi utilizzate nella preparazione di una emulsione acqua/olio attraverso tecnologia nota delle formulazioni cosmetiche. The active ingredients, depending on their lipophilic or hydrophilic nature, have been used for the preparation of an aqueous and an oily phase as per table. The two phases were then used in the preparation of a water / oil emulsion through known technology of cosmetic formulations.
E’ stata ottenuta una formulazione cosmetica sotto forma di crema che si presentava come una crema molto pesante che lasciava sulla pelle un film grasso. Essa risultava ottima sia a livello deH’epidermide che del derma nei trattamenti estetici “urto” di pelli molto mature o come base per creme da notte. A cosmetic formulation was obtained in the form of a cream that appeared as a very heavy cream that left a greasy film on the skin. It was excellent both at the level of the epidermis and the dermis in the "shock" beauty treatments of very mature skin or as a base for night creams.
Esempio 2 Example 2
Preparazione di una crema leggera Preparation of a light cream
Sono stati impiegati i seguenti ingredienti attivi nelle quantità indicate in Tabella 2. The following active ingredients were used in the quantities indicated in Table 2.
Tabella 2: Ingredienti attivi dell’esempio 2 Table 2: Active ingredients of example 2
Gli ingredienti attivi, a seconda della loro natura lipofila o idrofila, sono stati impiegati per la preparazione di una fase acquosa e di una oleosa come da tabella. Le due fasi sono state quindi utilizzate nella preparazione di una emulsione acqua/olio attraverso tecnologia delle formulazioni cosmetiche note. The active ingredients, depending on their lipophilic or hydrophilic nature, have been used for the preparation of an aqueous and an oily phase as per table. The two phases were then used in the preparation of a water / oil emulsion through the technology of known cosmetic formulations.
La formulazione dermocosmetica così preparata si presentava come una crema gel che lasciava sulla pelle un leggero film di facile spalmabilità; ottima per trattamenti curativi, per trattamenti estetici di mantenimento per pelli normali e pelli mature e come base per creme da giorno. The dermocosmetic formulation thus prepared was presented as a gel cream that left a light, easily spreadable film on the skin; excellent for curative treatments, for aesthetic maintenance treatments for normal and mature skin and as a base for day creams.
Esempio 3 Example 3
TEST DERMATOLOGICI DERMATOLOGICAL TESTS
Le creme ottenute rispettivamente dall’esempio 1 e dall’esempio 2 sono state sottoposte a test dermatologici. Per ambedue i formulati in crema si è riscontrata una marcata attività dermatologica preventiva, curativa, protettiva, lenitiva, riparatrice, reidratante, sebonormalizzante, pH riequilibrante. Tali test dimostravano che la selezione di classi di ingredienti attivi dell’invenzione aveva permesso di ottenere una crema presentante le attività dichiarate per il benessere della cute sia nello strato dell’epidermide che negli strati profondi della cute. The creams obtained from example 1 and example 2 respectively were subjected to dermatological tests. For both cream formulations a marked preventive, curative, protective, soothing, repairing, rehydrating, sebum-normalizing, pH rebalancing activity was found. These tests showed that the selection of classes of active ingredients of the invention had made it possible to obtain a cream with the declared activities for the well-being of the skin both in the epidermis layer and in the deep layers of the skin.
Claims (15)
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20140302185A1 (en) * | 2011-10-05 | 2014-10-09 | Freia Farmaceutici S.R.L. | Composition for the treatment of skin lesions |
US20160058694A1 (en) * | 2013-05-15 | 2016-03-03 | Solazyme, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions comprising microalgal oil |
US9668966B2 (en) | 2008-11-07 | 2017-06-06 | Terravia Holdings, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions comprising microalgal components |
-
2007
- 2007-10-25 IT ITMI20072063 patent/ITMI20072063A1/en unknown
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US9668966B2 (en) | 2008-11-07 | 2017-06-06 | Terravia Holdings, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions comprising microalgal components |
US20140302185A1 (en) * | 2011-10-05 | 2014-10-09 | Freia Farmaceutici S.R.L. | Composition for the treatment of skin lesions |
US20160058694A1 (en) * | 2013-05-15 | 2016-03-03 | Solazyme, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions comprising microalgal oil |
US9597280B2 (en) * | 2013-05-15 | 2017-03-21 | Terravia Holdings, Inc. | Cosmetic compositions comprising microalgal oil |
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