IE48961B1 - Low ammonia bleach compositions - Google Patents

Low ammonia bleach compositions

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Publication number
IE48961B1
IE48961B1 IE1935/79A IE193579A IE48961B1 IE 48961 B1 IE48961 B1 IE 48961B1 IE 1935/79 A IE1935/79 A IE 1935/79A IE 193579 A IE193579 A IE 193579A IE 48961 B1 IE48961 B1 IE 48961B1
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IE
Ireland
Prior art keywords
composition
water
weight percent
hair
ammonium
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Application number
IE1935/79A
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IE791935L (en
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Bristol Myers Co
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Publication date
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Publication of IE791935L publication Critical patent/IE791935L/en
Publication of IE48961B1 publication Critical patent/IE48961B1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08Preparations for bleaching the hair

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A thickened hair bleaching composition which produces only trace amounts of ammonia gas when applied to the users hair, having a water phase accounting for 80 to 100% of the total weight of the composition and an ammonium ion concentration in the water phase which is less than about 0.55% of the total composition which comprises 2-20% of a per-compound, 1.5-7% of hydrogen peroxide, an amine or quaternary ammonium compound, 4-8% of at least one water-soluble surfactant thickener, a buffering agent for maintaining the composition at a pH of from about 9 to 12, and the balance is water. The composition can contain additional ingredients including a sequestering agent, a viscosity modifier and a water-insoluble surfactant thickener.

Description

This invention relates to thickened hair bleaching compositions whose constituents include high proportions oi' water-soluble surfactants and water-soluble compounds, and reduced levels of ammonium ions in a water phase thereof, thereby providing substantially reduced ammonia gas production and a more aesthetically pleasing result.
Any process relating to the treatment of hair must take into account a large number of variables. Bleaching is basically a process to remove natural color from hair. The i; hair color, i.e. the degree of hair lightening desired by a patron, may vary from the mere highlighting of hair through to the palest blonde. Bleaching compositions must therefore be capable of producing mild lightening to high lightening and all degrees of lightening in between. In addition, an entire head of hair may be bleached, or only portions thereof, i.e. new growth or root areas. Bleaching compositions for streaking, frosting, or tipping may be self-applied or operator-assisted to gain special blonding effects.
Bleaching compositions used on hair differ from these used with textiles, fabrics, hard surface cleansing and the like, in that hair bleaching compositions, in addition te oxidizing and destroying the colored melanin of the hair, must be suitable for use in contact with the human skin and must not damage the hair excessively. Furthermore, since 1; hair bleaches are a member of the class of materials known as cosmetics, it is desirable that they be aesthetically 48061 acceptable to the user. Finally, it is desirable that a hair bleaching composition remove the melanin coloration from the hair as efficiently as possible, both for the sake of convenience and to help prevent damage to the hair and irritation to the skin and scalp. Most bleaching systems require exposure to the hair for periods from a few minutes to as long as about 2 to 3 hours, depending upon the desired degree of bleaching.
Hair bleaches commonly consist of a peroxide oxidizing agent, bleach enhancing agents, and a variety of additional cosmetic and bleach stabilizing agents. Oxidizing agents such as the various hypochlorites and halogenated cyanurlc acid compounds suitable for use on hard surfaces and in fabric bleaching are not suitable for use on hair, since they are too damaging and too irritating to the skin.
Peroxide bleaches used on hair must be activated, this being accomplished by the use of an activating agent to adjust the pH to a basic range. The most common material for adjusting the pH of peroxide hair bleaching compositions is an aqueous solution of ammonia, commonly referred to as ammonium hydroxide.
The prior art discloses that aqueous solutions of certain compounds, namely hydrogen peroxide and hydrogen peroxide generating compounds such as peroxy compounds, e.g. persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, are effective in bleaching human hair or keratinous materials. In an effort to increase the rate of bleaching with these hydrogen peroxide products, an activator is used in conjunction with the hydrogen peroxide, the activator generally being an ammonium, an alkali metal hydroxide or an alkali metal hydroxide producing compound.
Hair lightening lotions used in two and three component systems typically contain between 2 and 5.5Ϊ by weight ammonium hydroxide. Generally, at least half this amount is unneutralized and is present in the lotion as NH-j.^O.
Because of the high concentration of neutralized and 8 9 6 1 unneutralized ammonium ion, bleach systems currently in consumer use today have a characteristic ammonia odor. As a result, bleach mixtures are not as aesthetic to use as other cosmetic preparations.
However, if ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is replace by a higher molecular weight less volatile amine, the result ing bleach mixture is more damaging (for the same degree of lightening) to the keratin hair fibers. For example, U.S. Patent 2,283,350 to Baum discloses the use of aliphatic 1·: amines and hvdroxyaliphatic amines as substitutes for ammcri hydroxide in hair bleaching compositions.
Moreover, U.S. Patent 3,816,615 to Zeffren et al dis closes hair bleaches containing guanidine compounds in place, of ammonium hydroxide.
Furthermore, to be effective, a bleach composition must remain in place for the time required to effectively lighten the hair, retaining, while in place, the proper alkalinity and moisture content needed to continue the bleab ing action. The bleach composition must form a foam of limited height and of sufficient viscosity to hold in confcac with the hair the bleaching constituents and the oxygen released. The conventional bleaching compositions known in the art accomplish this by incorporating significant quantities of various types of water-insoluble thickeners, oils, an·: fillers. For example, U.S. Patent 3,651,209 to Cohen descri bes the use of calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, plash! of Paris and other inert fillers such as talc, kaolin and bentonite as suitable thickening agents for bleaching compositions. white henna (i.e. mixtures of magnesium 3C carbonate and magnesium oxide, magnesium trisilicate or the like) and other insoluble adsorbent materials have also been described as useful aids to build viscosity in bleach'-;:·, compositions.
Hair lightening lotions presently in use are additionally known to contain substantial quantities of water insoluble esters, alcohols, ethoxylates and/or propoxylatec to create viscosity. The most common alcohol used is the C^g oleyl derivative. The water insoluble surfactants form gels when the lotion is mixed with aqueous peroxide solutions.
The water insoluble gel helps keep the bleach mixture on the hair fibers and prevent it from running or creeping away from the hair shaft. The use of water insoluble surfactants, however, greatly affects the lightening ability of the bleach mixture. To overcome reduced bleaching activity, high levels of ammonia are required. Studies have shown that as the surfactant becomes more water insoluble, the lightening ability of the bleach system decreases. The functional grouping of the surfactant appears to have little effect upon the efficiency of the resultant bleach mixture as long as water solubility is maintained.
Accordingly, to provide an improved peroxygen bleaching composition producing very little unpleasant ammonia odor and having the proper consistency throughout the bleaching operation to provide good lightening results while holding the amount of hair damage incurred by bleaching to an acceptable minimum level, it has been surprisingly found that this can be attained by keeping both water insoluble ingredients and amine ingredients to low levels. As a consequence, lightener lotion formulations should contain surfactants which form soluble gels when mixed with peroxides and/or persulfates.
The above criteria for solubility/gel formation places practical restrictions on the type of surfactants that can be used.
Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a thickened hair bleaching composition comprising a water phase, accounting for from 80 to 100 weight percent of the total composition, said water phase comprising, based on the total composition: (a) 2 to 20 weight percent of at least one percompound selected from the group consisting of an ammonium-, alkali metal- and alkaline earth metal-perborate, persulfate, percarbonate, and carbonate peroxide; 8 9 6 1 (b) 1.5 to 7 weight percent of hydrogen peroxide; (c) an amine or quanternary ammonium compound selected from the group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, morpholine, mono-, di-, and trialkanolamine, and mono-, di-f and trialkylamine, wherein the alkyl or alkanol substituents have a carbon chain length of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; (d) 4 to 24.88 weight percent of at least one water-soluble surfactant thickner; and (e) a buffering agent for maintaining the composit ion at a pH of from 9 to 12; (f) the balance of the water phase being water, bu the water phase having a content of ammonium ion, and the ammonium ion concentration in the water phase being less then 0.55 weight percent based on the total composition, resulting in substantially only trace amounts of ammonia gas produces; as a result of interaction of these ingredients with each other or with hair; the composition also containing (g) not more than 20 weight percent of at least one water-insoluble surfactant.
Additionally, the composition according to the invention can contain, respectively, up to 0.5 weight percent of a sequestering agent, 1.5 weight percent of a viscosity modifier, and 20 weight percent of at least one additional water-insoluble ingredient selected from the group consisting of perfumes, oils, opacifiers, and dyestuffs.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention can contain, respectively, 6-8 weight percent of the percompound, and 3,2-3.7 weight percent of hydrogen peroxide, and can include as the water-soluble surfactant thickner tha 8.5 mole ethoxylate of cocoyl fatty acid. Additionally, the pH of the resulting composition is preferably 9.7 to 10.3.
The water-soluble surfactant thickner can be selected from the group consisting of: (a) an alkylene glycol or an alkylene glycol ether alcohol of the formula: R5O(R6O)nR7OH 6 wherein R is H or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and R and R are divalent alkylene radicals having 2 to 4 carbon atoms and n is a number from 0 to 150; (b) a long chain fatty acid soap of the formula (R8C00) aM D wherein R is the hydrocarbon moiety of a long chain fatty acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, M is a monovalent or polyvalent salt-forming group and a is the valence of group M; (c) a long chain (Cg-C22) polyoxyalkylated com15 pound selected from the group consisting of a polyoxyalkylated long chain (Οθ-Ο22) fatty alcohol, a polyoxyalkylated polyhydroxyalkyl ester of a long chain (Cg-C22) fatty acid; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (Cg-C22) amine; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (Cg-C22) fatty acid; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (Cg_C22) fatty acid amide; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (cq~c22^ alkylphenol and polyoxyalkylated laurate esters of sorbitol and its anhydrides containing about 8 to 300 oxyalkyl groups in the structure; and (d) mixtures thereof.
The thickened hair bleaching compositions in accordance with the invention herein normally have a viscosity in the range of 5000 to 100,000 centipoises.
As was previously mentioned, it is commonly accepted practice to incorporate an amine or quaternary ammonium compound in a peroxygen bleaching system to provide activation in che bleaching process.
Bleaching studies have surprisingly indicated that very good lightening, resulting in minimal hair damage, can 1-2 be obtained with lotions containing an ammonium ion concentration of 0.55 weight percent or less based on the total composition weight, while at the same time having a water phase that accounts for 80 to 100 weight percent of the total CCS' position. Studies have also indicated that hair lightening . 2“ is not substantially affected by ammonia basicity, i.e. ths ammonia may nominally be present as either free NH^.^O or as the neutralized ammonium ion, NH^. From a cosmetic viewpoint, the ammonium ion is preferable to free ammonia.
Because of the equilibrium between NH^, MH^OH, NH^ and OH , it is not possible to have just one species present in an aqueous medium. The relative proportion of ammonia to ammonium can be shifted by pH, ionic strength, pressure and any other chemical technique that affects the concentration of each species in the equilibrium constant. However, merely reducing amine or quaternary ammonium content, without also maintaining the higher concentrations of water-soluble components, or vice versa, as taught herein, does not provide satisfactory hair lightening results. Moreover, to try to compensate for the inferior lightening resulting from using lower amine or quaternary ammonium concentrations by either using high concentrations of peroxygen compounds, alkaline ingredients, longer time periods for bleaching the hair, or higher temperature during the bleaching process will result in unsatisfactory damage levels '2 to the hair. It is the intent of this invention to adjust the formula in such a way so as to favor the formation of ammonium ion and keep the concentration of free ammonia as close as practical to the value dicated by the equilibrium constant.
One of the essential ingredients present in the bleach compositions according to the invention herein is at least one percompound in a useful concentration range of 2 to 20%, and preferably 6 to 8%. It is pointed out that % throughout the specification means weight percent based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. The percompound provides an additional source of oxygen generation necessary for bleaching, other than hydrogen peroxide. Such percompounds can be selected from the ammonium-, alkali metal- and alkaline earth metal-perborates, persulfates, percarbonates, and carbonate peroxides. The terms alkali metal and alkaline earth metal as used herein and throughout the specification are deemed to have their ordinary accepted meaning in the art.
It is also essential to have present hydrogen peroxide in a useful concentration range of 1.5 to 7% to provide bleaching of the hair. Stabilizers for the hydrogen peroxide, such as phenacetin, may also be present in minor amounts. Preferably the hydrogen peroxide concentration is from 3.2 to 3.7%.
A third essential ingredient is a water-soluble amine or quaternary ammonium compound for providing necessary activation of the peroxide for enhanced bleaching, and also serving additionally as a pH adjusting agent and aiding in thickening the composition by the formation of watersoluble soap gels with fatty acids. The amine or quaternary ammonium compound most often used, and that preferred, is ammonium hydroxide, because of its ready availability and effectiveness as a peroxide activator. However, other less effective amines can be used, typically in larger quantities, such as an amine or quaternary ammonium compound selected from the group consisting of at least one of morpholine. mono-, di-, trialkanolamine, and mono-, di-, and trialky1amine, wherein the alkyl or alkanol substituents have a carbon chain length of 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
As previously noted, it is critical that the ammonccm ion concentration in the water phase of the bleaching composition be less than 0.55% to prevent the formation of ere than trace amounts of ammonia gas by the composition erring the hair bleaching process and thereby overcoming the problems associated with the prior art, producing cosmetically pleasing results. Therefore it is apparent that the resulting ammonium ion concentration comes about from many factors not the least of which is the amount of ammonium compounds including ammonium percompounds present in the composition which are capable of ionizing in water to form me ammonium ion. Also affecting the ammonium ion concentration is the amount of other compounds that react with (e.g ..eutralize) the ammonium ion, such as fatty acid compounds, finally, there are factors associated with the equilibrium cn solutions between the ammonium ion, ammonium hydroxide, and ammonia gas. Furthermore, it is observed that the use cf amines in place of ammonium hydroxide will not result in rhe formation of ammonium ion, but requires greater amounts cf the same because of lower efficiency compared to ammonium nydroxide.
It is essential to include from 4 to 24.88% of at least one water-soluble surfactant thickner. These are well known to anyone skilled in the art. For example, such water soluble surfactant thickeners are those described as coupling agents at column 5, line 29 to column 6, line 56 of I'.S. Patent 3,811,830 to R. DeMarco issued May 21, 1974, and incorporated by reference herein. Additionally, useful are ethoxylated laurate esters of sorbitol and its anhydrides such as with 80 moles ethylene oxide (Tween 80); acict srhoxylates such as di-stearic acid with 150 moles ethylene oxide (PEG 6000 Distearate); and block copolymers of ethyien; oxide and propylene oxide (Pluronics). (The words Tween” and Pluronic are registered Trade Marks). A preferred surfactant is cocoyl fatty acid ethoxylated with 8.5 moles of ethylene oxide.
The useful pH range for using the bleaching compositions as herein disclosed is from 9 to 12, although preferably it is 9.7 to 10.3. Below the pH of 9, insufficient bleaching action occurs; whereas above 12 excessive hair damage occurs.
To maintain the proper pH range, a buffering agent of pH adjustment agent is found to be essential. In addition to the alkalinity provided by the amine or quaternary ammonium compounds, useful agents are the alkali metal metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate; alkali metal carbonate, ortho-, meta- and tripolyphosphates.
Water is an essential ingredient in providing the proper medium for the bleaching process to occur as previously discussed, and makes up the balance of the composition except for water-insoluble ingredients and optional additives.
Among the optional additive ingredients are sequestering agents for complexing metal ion impurities which would tend to affect the stability of the hydrogen peroxide. Such sequestrants may be present in a concentration up to 0.5% and include the unneutralized and/or the alkali metal salts of nitrilotriacetic acid and alkylenepolyamine polycarboxylic acids having the formula (HOOCCH2)2N/(CH2)xNCH2COOH/yCH2COOH wherein x and y may vary independently from 1 to 4. Representative of such acids are ethylenediaminetetraacetlc acid and ethylenediaminetriacetlc acid. 489 6 1 Also present may be up to 1.5% of a viscosity modifier which can be a water-soluble straight chain aliphatic alcohol (e.g. ethanol or butanol), aldehyde (e.g. acetaldehyde or butyraldehyde), ketones (e.g. acetone or 2-hexanone), or glycol (e.g. ethylene glycol or butylene glycol), or mixture thereof, having a chain length of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Additionally, the compositions can optionally include up to 20% of at least one additional water-insoluble ingredient which includes for example, perfumes, oils, opacifiers and dyestuffs (including dyes and dispersible pigments;.
Such dyestuffs include for example, DSC Green r/i, FD&C Yellow piyS, and pigments like ultramine blue and disperse blue 1.
Typical opacifiers include abietic/lauric ether polyesters, and polystyrene.
Oils include non-volatile oils such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and volatile or essential oils such as peppermint, clove oil, and eucalyptus oils.
Typical cf the water-insoluble surfactants which are used, and which contribute thickening and emulsifying properties, are those well known in the art such as those disclosed in O.S. Patent 3,811,830 to DeMarco at column 3, line 64 to column 5, line 6, which is incorporated by reference herein, called oily materials.
As optional additives, it is possible to include water-insoluble fats and waxes derived from natural or synthetic sources (e.g. beeswax or spermaceti) and skin emollients well known in the art.
The use of one or more water-soluble surfactant thickeners is essential, in combination with not more than 20 weight percent of at least one water-insoluble surfactant, to provide for a low ammonia bleach composition in accordance with the indention herein. Xt is pointed out that the use of natural gums (e.g. xanthum or guar gum) and cellulose-based thickening agents (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose derivatives), with or without solvents such as low molecular weight (C-^-Cg) alcohols and ketones, does not provide the necessary thickening properties for the compositions disclosed herein, the gums and cellulose-based agents being too difficult to conveniently mix and requiring excessive time to hydrate in order to build the necessary viscosity to maintain the bleaching composition on the hair. Solvents which generally couple oil-soluble materials and watersoluble surfactants produce compositions with low viscosity and are unsuitable for bleaching keratin fibers.
In the examples that follow, the test methods used for evaluating bleaching (i.e. hair lightening effectiveness) and alkaline solubility (i.e. hair damage) are described as follows.
Test Method for Evaluating Bleaching Effectiveness Surfactants and their effect upon lightening and damage were evaluated as part of a three component system.
The system contained a powdered activator, a lotion and a developer. The chemical composition of the activator and developer were kept constant, with the lotion being the vehicle for the evaluation of the surfactant. The activator had the following composition: ACTIVATOR Ingredient Grams W/W% (Na2Si2°5> 2.1 9.05 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 0.5 2.15 Methocel 60 HG (Hydroxypropylmethyl 0.3 1.30 cellulose) Cabosil M5 (fumed Silica Dioxide) 0.3 1.30 Potassium Persulfate 10.0 43.10 Sodium Persulfate 10.0 43.10 23.2 100.00 e, 48961 (The word Methocel is a registered Trade Mark).
The lotion consisted of 0.5¾ monoethanolamine (i.e. MEA, and 99.5% of the surfactant to be evaluated.
Bleaching tests were done as follows: ; Twenty-three grams of activator were added to 4 os. . (113.4 grams) of a 6% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution and shaken. Sixty grams of the test lotion was then added and shaken until thoroughly mixed. The pH and viscosity of the mixture were then measured. The mixture was spread over and through a swatch of brown pigmented hair. The swatch consisted of a blend of commercially available virgin hair approximately nine inches (22.86 cm) long. The bleaching was accomplished in a glass dish placed atop a constant tszn~ perature bath set at 38°C. The bleaching time was one hour I- with the swatch being turned over and the bleach mixture reworked every fifteen minutes. At the end of one hour, the bleach mixture was rinsed from the hair and the swatch shampooed with a mild shampoo. The swatch was then visually compared to a standard. If the swatches were comparable in lightening to the standard, the reflectance of each swatch was accurately measured at 560 mp on a Beclonan DU-2 Spectrophotometer. (The word Beckman is a registered Trade Mark) Where the surfactant was supplied as powdered solid material, the necessary MEA and solid surfactant are dissolved in the 6S hydrogen peroxide solution. The activator is then added to the resulting lotion/peroxide mixture and shaken until uniform. The bleaching process is the same as previously described.
Test Procedure-Alkaline Solubility Test / Bleach hair swatches at 38°C. for 1 hour in bleaching composition. Then dry 1 gram sample of bleached hair for 3 hours at 110°C. Weight the dried hair sample. Then immerse hair for I hour in 100 ml. of 0.1 W sodium hydroxics at 6S°C, Remove hair from sodium hydroxide solution and rinse with distilled water. Follow with rinse of 1% acetic acid solution. Again rinse with distilled water. Dry hair swatch for 3 hours at 110°C. Weight sample and calculate weight loss. The greater the weight loss the greater the hair damage that has occurred during the bleaching process.
The standard used was a commercially available Clairol Naturally Blonde Quick Lightening Kit comprising a three component system; 60 g. of lotion; 120 g. of developer and 28 g. of activator (208 g. total). Percent composition is as follows; CHEMICAL NAME WEIGHTS Lotion Ammonium Hydroxide (29% aqueous solution) Disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 2.45 0.30 Isopropanol Ethoxydiglycol'1' Ethoxyiated nonylphenol (10 moles of 3.75 1.01 1.59 2* ethylene oxide) Oleic acid .10 Polyethylene glycol ether of tridecyl 3* alcohol (6 moles of ethylene oxide) 1.20 3.17 Polyethylene glycol amine of Soya Acid 5* (5 moles of ethylene oxide) 3.17 Water 2.22 Fragrance 0.14 CHEMICAL NAME Developer WEIGHTS Ethoxylated Nonylphenol (4.0 ethylene oxide)8 moles of 2.88 Ethoxylated Nonylphenol (9,0 moles of 2.88 7 ethylene oxide) Cetyl Alcohol 0.14 Hydrogen Peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 7.96 Water 44.68 Activator 8* Silica0 0.20 Sodium metasilicate 1.82 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.16 Disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 0.16 Ammonium Persulfate 2.80 Potassium Persulfate 8.28 100.00 1. Trade is a Name: Carbitol PM 600 (The word Carbitol registered Trade Mark). 2. Trade Name: Igepal DM 530 3. Trade Name: Emulphogene BC-610 4. Trade Name: Alkaterge C 5. Trade Name: Varonic L 205 6. Trade Name: Igepal CO 430 7 , Trade Name: Igepal CO 630 8. Trade Name: Cabosil M5 N6te; A j_ 1 01 £7,-.1 ν- V- Ί ; the oleic acid was converted to the water- s salt form. 48861 This composition had an alkaline solubility of 30.2% (i.e. 30.2 wt.% of 1 g. sample dissolved in alkaline solution). Ammonium ion concentration - 1.70 wt.%; watersoluble phase - 87.65 wt.%. In the Naturally Blonde composition and the examples that follow, the designation indicates that the particular ingredient is not watersoluble or only slightly water-soluble. Also, the wt.% of the water-soluble phase is determined by substracting from 100% the wt.% of insoluble ingredients.
Additionally, the maximum ammonium ion concentration in the composition is determined by assuming complete ionization of the ammonium percompound and ammonium hydroxide.
In accordance with the aforementioned Bleaching and Alkaline Solubility Test methods, bleaching compositions including the following water-soluble surfactant thickeners were tested and gave comparable and satisfactory light reflectance and alkaline solubility levels as that for Naturally Blonde. (The words Ethomeen, Ethoquad, Brij, Pluronic and Collemul appearing below are registered Trade Marks).
Chemical Class Trade Name Ethoxylated primary fatty amine Ethomeen C/25 Ethoxylated fatty acids Ethofat 242/25 Ethoxylated dialkyl quaternary Ethoquad 18/25 ammonium salts Ethoxylated fatty alcohols BrijR 35 Propoxylated fatty alcohols ProcetylR g0 Ethoxylated lanolin Solulan 75 Ethoxylated lanolin alcohols Solulan 25 Acetylated polyoxyethylene lanolin Solulan 97 derivatives Nonylphenoxypoly(ethyleneoxy) types Igepal CO-630 Polyethylene/proplene glycols Pluronics/Carbo- Polyethylene glycol 1000 monostearate waxes Collemul 510 48061 In the Examples that follow, the resulting bleaching compositions had a pH of 9.8-10 and were evaluated using the aforementioned test methods for bleaching and alkaline solubility, except where indicated otherwise, providing similar light reflectance and solubility levels to that for Naturally Blonde.
EXAMPLE 1 Three component system; 66 g. of lotion; 120 g. of developer and 2S g. of activator (25.4 g. total) . The activator was mixed with the lotion, and the peroxide developer was added to the lotion/activator mixture. Percent composition is as follows: CHEMICAL NAME Lotion WEIGHT.Laurate esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides condensed with 80 moles of ethylene oxide1- Polyethylene glycol ester of oleic acid 2* (5 moles of ethylene oxide) Monoethanolamine 23.36 4.67 2.80 CHEMICAL NAME Developer WEIGHTS Hydrogen Peroxide (50% aqueous solution) Water 6.89 49.18 Activator Potassium Persulfate 2.95 Ammonium Persulfate 0.92 SODIUM Persulfate 2.95 Disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 0.13 Sodium Metasilicate 6.15 100.00 Water-soluble phase - 95.33%.
Ammonium ion concentration - 0.15% 1. Trade Name: Tween 80. (The word Tween is a registered Trade Mark). 2. Trade Name: Emulphor VN-430. (The word Emulphor is a registered Trade Mark).
EXAMPLE 2 Three component system; 60 g. of lotion; 120 g. of developer and 28 g. of activator (208 g. total) were mixed as previously described. Percent composition is as follows: CHEMICAL NAME WEIGHT% Lotion Oleic Acid 6.34 Ethoxylated Cocoyl Fatty Acid (8.5 moles of 9.23 Ethylene oxide) Ethoxylated Nonylphenol (4.0 moles of ethyl- 3.10 2* ene oxide) Polyethylene glycol amine of Soya Acid (5.0 2.88 3* moles of ethylene oxide) Ethanol 1.55 Polypropylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol 5.77 (5,0 moles of ethylene oxide) Perfume 0.08 Ammonium Hydroxide (59% aqueous solution) 0.29 Developer Hydrogen Peroxide (50% aqueous solution) Water 7.10 50.20 Activator Potassium Persulfate 3.03 Ammonium Persulfate 0.94 Sodium Persulfate 3.03 Discdiumethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 0.13 Sodium Metasilicate 6.33 100.00 Water-soluble phase - 94.02% Ammonium ion concentration - 0.24% 1. Trade Name: Nu-Mole 7A-CM 2. Trade Name: Igepal CO-430 3. Trade Name: Ethomeen S-15. (The word Ethomeen” is registered Trade Mark). 4. Trade Name: Procetyl 50 EXAMPLE 3 Two component system; 88 g. of activator is mixed with 120 g. of developer (208 g. total). Percent composit is as follows: CHEMICAL NAME WEIGHTS Activator Ethoxylated nonylphenol (150 moles of ethylene oxide) Polyethylene glycol diester of stearic 2 acid (150 moles of ethylene oxide) 12.79 0.78 acid' 2. IS Disodiumethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 0.26 Sodium Metasilicate 11.75 Sodium Persuifate 5.88 Potassium Persulfate 5.88 Ammonium Persulfate 2.78 Developer Ethoxylated nonylphenol (4.0 moles of ethylene 2.89 4* oxide) Ethoxylated nonylphenol (9.0 moles of ethylene 2.89 oxide,5 Cetyl Alcohol 0.14 Hydrogen Peroxide (50% aqueous solution) 7.09 Water 44.68 100.00 Water-soluble phase - 96.97%.
Ammonium ion concentration - 0.440%. 1. Trade Name: Igepal DM-970 2. Trade Name: PEG 6000 Distearate 3. Trade Name: Neo-Pat 16 4. Trade Name: Igepal CO 430 . Trade Name: Igepal CO 630 EXAMPLE 4 Three component system; 60 g. of lotion; 120 g. of developer and 29 g. of activator (208 g. total) were mixed as previously described. Percent composition is as follows: χ. 48961 CHEMICAL NAME Lotion Oleic Acid Ethoxyiated Cocyl Fatty Acid (8.5 moles of ethylene oxide) Ethoxyiated nonylphenol (4.0 moles of ethylene 2* oxide) 3* Ethylhydroxymethyl oleyl oxazoline Polyethylene glycol amine of Soya Acid (5.0 moles of ethylene oxide) Ammonium hydroxide (59¾ aqueous solution) Ethanol Polypropylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol (5.0 moles of ethylene Oxide)$ Fragrance Developer WEIGHTS 7.21 6.35 2.02 3.97 2.88 0.29 1.15 4.90 0.07 Hydrogen Peroxide (SOS of aqueous solution) Water Λ Cetyl Alcohol Ethoxyiated nonylphenol (4 moles of ethylene 2* oxide) Ethoxyiated nonylphenol (9 moles of ethylene oxide)& λ-. Activator Potassium Persulfate Ammonium Persulfate 7.10 44.70 0.14 2.88 2.88 3.03 0.94 Sodium Persulfate 3.03 Disodiumethylenediamine tetraacetic acid 0.13 Sodium Metasilicate 6.33 100.00 EXAMPLE 5 CHEMICAL NAME Lotion % by Wt. Wt. % Total Comp (a) Tall oil fatty acid'’’ 25.00 7.21 10 Ethoxylated cocoyl fatty acid 2 (8.5 moles ethylene oxide) soluble in water 22.00 6.34 Ethoxylated nonyl phenol (4.0 3 moles ethylene oxide) not soluble 7.00 2.02 15 Ethyl hydroxymethyl oleyl 4 oxazoline not soluble 13.70 3.95 Polyoxyethylene soya amine 5 (5 moles ethylene oxide) not soluble 10.00 2.88 Ammonium hydroxide (29% aq.) 1.00 0.29 20 Ethanol 4.00 1.15 Polyoxypropylene cetyl alcohol (50 moles ethylene oxide)6 soluble in water 17.00 4.90 Fragrance 0.30 0.09 100.00 Water-soluble phase 21.29% total comp.
Ammonium ion concentration .24% 1. Tall oil fatty acids as used herein refers to the commercial product Acintol EPG and is a mixture of fatty acids having the following average composition: palmitic acid (0.5%), palmitoleic acid (0.5%), 2. 3. 4. . 6. stearic acid (2.5%), oleic acid (52.5%), linoleic acid (37.0%), linoleic acid conjugated (as determined by UV and containing higher molecular weight polyunsaturated fatty acids) (6%), other miscellaneous acids and unknowns 1%.
Trade Name: Nu-Mole CM-7A Trade Name: Igepal CO 430 Trade Name: Alkaterge E Trade Name: Etnomeen S-15 Trade Name: Procetyl 50 (a) soluble in the alkaline medium of composition, but not soluble in plain water.
Wt. % Total Comp.
Activator % by wt.
Disodium ETDA 1.0 0.13 alkaline buffer GD Silicate (sodium 47.0 6.33 silicate) Sodium persulfate 22.5 3.03 Potassium persulfate 22.5 3.03 Ammonium persulfate 7.0 0.94 100.0 Developer Ethoxylated nonylphenol 4.92 (4.0 moles of ethylene 6* oxide)D 2.84 Ethoxylated nonylphenol (9.0 moles of ethylene oxide) soluble in water k Cetyl alcohol 4.92 2.84 0.14 7.85 Hydrogen peroxide (50% aqueous solution) .24 13.60 i Water 76.32 44.04 100.00 6. Trade Name: Igepal CO 430 7. Trade Name: Igepal CO 630 A three component system is prepared from the above lotion, developer and activator by mixing these components in the following amounts: 60 g of lotion, 120 g of developer and 28 g of activator.

Claims (15)

1. CLAIM S:1. A thickened hair bleaching composition comprising a water phase, accounting for from 80 to 100 weight percent of the total composition, said water phase comprising, based on the total composition: (a) 2 to 20 weight percent of at least one percompound selected from the group consisting of ait ammonium-, alkali metal- and alkaline earth metal-perborate, persulfate, percarbonate, and 1C carbonate peroxide; (b) 1.5 to 7 weight percent of hydrogen peroxide; (c) an amine or quaternary ammonium compound selected from the group consisting of ammonium hydrox 15 ide, morpholine , mono-, di-, and trialkanolamine, and mono-, di-, and trialkylamine, wherein the alkyl or alkanol substituents have a carbon chain length of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; (d) 4 to 24.88 weight percent of at least one water25 soluble surfactant thickner; and (e) a buffering agent for maintaining the composition at a pH of from 9 to 12; (f) the balance of the water phase being water, but the water phase having a content of ammonium 25 ion, and the ammonium ion concentration in the water phase being less than 0.55 weight percent based on the total composition, resulting in substantially only trace amounts of ammonia gas produced as a result of interaction of these j'5 ingredients with each other or with hair; the composition also containing (g) not more than 20 weight percent of at least one water-insoluble surfactant.
2. The composition of Claim 1 additionally containing up to 0.5 weight percent of a sequestering agent.
3. The composition of Claim 1 additionally containing up to 1.5 weight percent of a viscosity modifier comprising a water-soluble straight chain aliphatic alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, or glycol, or mixture thereof, having a carbon chain length of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
4. The composition of Claim 1 additionally containing up to 20 weight percent of at least one additional waterinsoluble ingredient selected from the group consisting of perfumes, oils, opacifiers, and dyestuffs.
5. The composition of Claim 1 wherein said watersoluble surfactant thickner is selected from the group consisting of: (a) an alkylene glycol or an alkylene glycol ether alcohol of the formula: R 5 O(R 6 O) n R 7 OH wherein R is H or alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon 6 7 atoms and R and R are divalent alkylene radicals havin g 2 to 4 carbon atoms and n is a number from 0 to 150; (b) a long chain fatty acid soap of the formula wherein R is the hydrocarbon moiety of a long (R 8 COO) M a chain fatty acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, M is a monovalent or polyvalent salt-forming group and a is the valence of group M; (c) a long chain (C g -C 22 ) polyoxyalkylated compound 5 selected from the group consisting of a polyoxyalkylated long chain (C g -C 22 ) fatty alcohol, a polyoxyalkylated polyhydroxyalkyl ester of a long chain (C g -C 22 ) fatty acid; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (C g -C 22 ) amine; a polyoxyalky 10 lated long chain (C g -C 22 ) fatty acid; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (C g -C 22 ) fatty acid amide; a polyoxyalkylated long chain (C g -C 22 ) alkylphenol and polyoxyalkylated laurate esters of sorbitol and its anhydrides contain15 ing about 8 to 300 oxyalkyl groups in the structure; and (d) mixtures thereof.
6. The composition of Claim 5 wherein said percompound weight percent (a) is 6 to 8. 20
7. The composition of Claim 6 wherein said hydrogen peroxide weight percent (b) is 3.2 to 3.7.
8. The composition of Claim 7 wherein said pH is 9.7 to 10.3.
9. The composition of Claim 8 wherein said water25 soluble surfactant thickner (d) is cocoyl fatty acid ethoxylated with 8.5 moles of ethylene oxide.
10. A hair bleaching composition substantially as hereinbefore described in any one of the foregoing numbered Examples 1 — 4 .
11. A method of bleaching hair, comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition in accordance with any one of Claims 1 to 10.
12. The ingredients of the composition of Claim 1 5 when assembled in a multi-part package comprising as the first part the percompound, as the second part the amine or quaternary ammonium compound, with the water-soluble surfactant (or surfactants) and the buffering agent being incorporated in the first part or the second part or both, and with the hydrogen 10 peroxide being supplied separately; the said ingredients, upon being mixed, yielding a composition having an ammonium ion concentration and other characteristics as specified in claim 1.
13. The ingredients of the composition of Claim 1
14. 15 when assembled in a multipart package comprising as the first part the percompound, as the second part the amine, and as the third part the hydrogen peroxide, with the water-soluble surfactant (or surfactants) and the buffering agent being incorporated in the first part or the second part or both;
15. 20 the said ingredients, upon being mixed, yielding a composition having an ammonium ion concentration and other characteristics as specified in claim 1.
IE1935/79A 1978-10-12 1979-10-11 Low ammonia bleach compositions IE48961B1 (en)

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DE (1) DE2941511A1 (en)
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IE (1) IE48961B1 (en)
IT (1) IT1206994B (en)
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US4847089A (en) * 1986-07-16 1989-07-11 David N. Kramer Cleansing and distinfecting compositions, including bleaching agents, and sponges and other applicators incorporating the same
DE3844956C2 (en) * 1988-04-28 1996-03-21 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Two component compsn. for making hair bleaching paste
DE3814685A1 (en) * 1988-04-30 1988-09-01 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans TWO-COMPONENT PREPARATION FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A POWDERED, APPLICABLE PREPARATION FOR THE TREATMENT OF HUMAN HAIR
FR2715065B1 (en) * 1994-01-14 1996-04-26 Oreal Cosmetic compositions for bleaching hair, method of synthesis and use.
DE19824685A1 (en) * 1998-06-03 1999-12-09 Henkel Kgaa Bleaching agents
CA2394535C (en) * 1999-12-17 2011-03-15 Unilever Plc Hair bleaching and colouring compositions having a ph greater than ph 10 comprising cholesterol
US20050100560A1 (en) 2000-09-21 2005-05-12 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetic compositions
MX251641B (en) 2001-03-30 2007-11-20 Procter & Gamble Hair bleach product.
US7458993B2 (en) 2002-06-26 2008-12-02 L'oreal Composition useful for the oxidation dyeing of human keratinous fibres
FR2844711B1 (en) * 2002-06-26 2004-10-01 Oreal COMPOSITION FOR OXIDATION DYEING OF HUMAN KERATINIC FIBERS
AU2005311859B8 (en) * 2004-12-02 2012-01-19 The Procter & Gamble Company Thickened hair colourant and bleaching compositions
EP1669105A1 (en) * 2004-12-02 2006-06-14 The Procter and Gamble Company Thickened hair colourant and bleaching compositions
DE102005059647A1 (en) * 2005-12-12 2007-06-14 Henkel Kgaa bleach
EP1849499A3 (en) * 2006-04-26 2010-01-20 The Procter and Gamble Company Amide surfactant thickening systems for hair colouring and bleaching compositons
FR2988588B1 (en) * 2012-03-30 2014-08-29 Oreal PROCESS FOR DECOLORIZING KERATIN FIBERS
FR2994650B1 (en) * 2012-08-23 2014-08-29 Oreal COMPOSITION FOR DECOLORIZING KERATIN FIBERS IN COMPRESSED FORM WITH PERSULFATE AND FATTY ALCOHOL

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US2283350A (en) * 1939-02-15 1942-05-19 Mclaughlin & Wallenstein Composition for bleaching hair
GB1083007A (en) * 1964-11-26 1967-09-13 Rayette Faberge Hair bleaching composition
DE1617480B2 (en) * 1967-08-01 1973-02-01 Farbwerke Hoechst AG, vormals Mei ster Lucius & Brunmg, 6000 Frankfurt GEL BASES
FR2117760B1 (en) * 1970-12-15 1974-03-01 Gallia Sa Eugene
US3823231A (en) * 1971-04-20 1974-07-09 F Bucaria Hair bleach containing a thiocyanate catalyst
AU7076774A (en) * 1974-07-04 1976-01-08 Kintex Inc Bleach

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GB2033939B (en) 1983-01-19
DK425479A (en) 1980-04-13
ZA795463B (en) 1980-10-29
GR74489B (en) 1984-06-28
IE791935L (en) 1980-04-12
DE2941511A1 (en) 1980-04-30
FI793123A (en) 1980-04-13
NO155914B (en) 1987-03-16
FR2438477A1 (en) 1980-05-09
GB2033939A (en) 1980-05-29
LU81777A1 (en) 1980-05-07
BE879364A (en) 1980-04-11
IT7950539A0 (en) 1979-10-11
FR2438477B1 (en) 1983-04-08
CH642534A5 (en) 1984-04-30
MX153887A (en) 1987-02-09
NL7907552A (en) 1980-04-15
NO155914C (en) 1987-06-24
FI76491B (en) 1988-07-29
NO793241L (en) 1980-04-15
FI76491C (en) 1988-11-10
IT1206994B (en) 1989-05-17
SE7908473L (en) 1980-04-13

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