HUT67814A - Process for producing jewellery with set precious stone - Google Patents

Abstract

In order to produce pieces of jewellery with one or several set stones, a master pattern with settings for the stones is produced, a master mould is produced by moulding from the master pattern, a model is produced in the master mould with a castable or injection mouldable modelling mass that can be ejected by heating from the master mould, the stones are inserted into the model and set by deformation of the setting, a casting mould is produced by embedding the model in a fire-resistant moulding mass and by ejecting the modelling mass from the casting mould, metal is cast into the casting mould by a spin casting or vacuum moulding process and the piece of jewellery is removed from the mould once the metal has cooled down.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for making jewelry with one or more embedded stones, comprising:

- making an original pattern with stones for empty stones,

- printing the original sample without the stones to produce the original,

- preparing a sample of the molding compound formed by casting or injection molding wax heated by heating,

- placing stones in the sample sockets,

- fixing the respective stone in its socket by plastic deformation of the sample socket,

- forming a mold by embedding the sample in a refractory molding compound and folding the molding compound out of the mold,

- we pour metal into the mold,

- after the metal has hardened, the jewelry is removed from the mold.

The invention further relates to a process for casting or injection molding waxes which can be folded out by heating

for use in a process for the manufacture of one or more embedded stones in a model mass, wherein

- producing an original pattern with empty slots for the stones,

- patterning of the original sample, which does not yet include stones, to produce an original pattern,

- preparing a sample of the sample mass in its original form,

- placing the stones in the sample,

- fixing the respective stone in its socket by plastic deformation of the sample socket.

• · · ··· ···

DISCLOSURE COPIES 4G23 / 34- Representative: _U A DANUBIA Patent and Trademark Iroda Kft. Budapest 678 1 4  62-2Λ as- / oz,

PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PRECIOUS STONE JEWELERY

MÜLLER, Manfred, Pforzheim-Eutingen, DE

Inventor:

identical to the applicant

Date of filing: 03/12/1992

Priority: 05.12.1991 (P 41 40 121.2) DE

International Application Number: PCT / EP92 / 02792

International Publication Number: WO 93/10686

79.560-1327 KAM f

• " · · the · • · · · ··· · · · ······ · ·

The present invention relates to a process for making embedded jewelery

DE 39 24 574 A1 discloses a wax-melting molding process for making jewelery, which first comprises the production of an original sample of the jewelry, followed by the production of an original sample by molding the original sample. Stripping can be accomplished by pouring a molding compound, such as a two-component silicone rubber mixture, into a container in which the original sample is disposed, curing the molding compound and cutting the body thus formed into two parts and removing the original sample.

It is also possible to place the original sample between two blocks of thermoplastic material and heat the two blocks under pressure until they are plastic deformed and bonded to the original sample, resulting in a fake print of the original sample in both blocks (DE 35 46 188 Al). The two-part original shapes thus formed, as they are customarily composed of an elastomeric material, are also called rubber shapes. In such an original mold, a molding compound, in particular wax, is filled by molding or injection molding. After the sample mass has cooled down, the original shape is opened and the sample is removed. Conventionally, multiple patterns are assembled, bunched, or bunched. The bouquet is then embedded in a refractory molding compound. A molding compound is considered refractory if it is resistant to the effect of a flowing metal, which is used to make a jewel of metal without deformation. After embedding the sample bunch in the refractory molding compound, the sample batch consisting of the sample batch is heated by heating.

- 3 driven. If the molding compound is wax or low melting metal, in this case the molding compound is thawed (wax melting process), whereas if the molding compound is plastic, it is fired. The mold thus produced is then poured into the flowing metal from which the jewel is to be made. To ensure that the metal can reach all corners and branches of the mold, the mold is rotated (spin casting) or the casting is performed using vacuum (vacuum assisted casting). After stiffening and cooling, the bouquet of jewelry pieces is removed from the mold and the pieces of jewelry are separated.

Further, a method of making one or more jeweled stones encapsulated is known in which the stones are cast together. For this purpose, the original pattern of the piece of jewelery, in which the stones are embedded, is patterned to form the original pattern. Such an original form, which is the negative shape of the piece of jewelery, accordingly contains recesses for the stones. In these recesses of the original shape the stones of the piece of jewelry are placed, after which the mold is cast or splashed, and the pattern of the piece of jewelry thus formed is further processed as described above. However, this solution has the difficulty of correctly positioning the stones in their original shape and securing them so that they are in exactly the same position as the piece of jewelery produced, after the molding or injection has been made. On the other hand, it is often the case that the position of the stones with or around the perimeter • * • · ·

- It varies with 4 splashes and the degree of spattering varies from sample to sample, which can also be traced back to the shape of the stones, for example.

From FR 1 599 866 there is known a method of embedding jewels in a wax pattern. Such wax samples are assembled into a bunch of wax samples and processed into molded pieces of jewelry after the wax melting process. In doing so, however, the jewels are not placed in a separate socket on the wax sample, but are inserted in a wax sample made without the socket. Accordingly, the molded piece of jewelry does not have a separate socket for the stones.

From FR-A-2 366 812 there is known a process for producing an original pattern in which a stone is embedded in a socket which already has the final shape. The stone is then carefully removed so that the socket does not change. The blank original sample is then patterned to form a rubber mold in which a plastic sample is poured into which the stone is inserted. The samples thus formed are then assembled into a bunch of samples, embedded in gypsum, spun out of the plastic and casted with the precious metal. The disadvantage of this solution is that the material required to produce the sample is flexible enough to allow the stones to snap into the finished socket. The conventionally applied sample waxes, due to their lack of elasticity, pose difficulties in this respect, which makes it difficult to comply with FR-A-2 366 812.

- 5 solutions suggest a plastic that is spun out by a two-step heat treatment process, namely by melting and subsequent stepwise heating to the temperature required for casting the metal at which the plastic decomposes. It is further disadvantageous that the stone can be tightly joined and clamped only if it is exactly the same size and shape as the stone that was placed in the original pattern. This is usually not the case, so heavy work is required on the cast piece.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a process for making embedded cast jewelery that makes it possible, in the simplest possible manner, to make jewelery that contains precisely inserted stones without the need for subsequent incorporation of the jewelery.

To solve this problem, we have developed a process for making jewelry with one or more embedded stones in which

- making an original pattern with stones for empty stones,

- printing the original sample without the stones to produce the original,

- preparing a sample of the molding compound formed by casting or injection molding wax heated by heating,

- placing stones in the sample sockets,

- the respective stone is secured in its socket by plastic deformation of the sample socket, · k · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

- forming a mold by embedding the sample in a refractory molding compound and folding the molding compound out of the mold,

- we pour metal into the mold,

- after the metal has hardened, the jewelry is removed from the mold.

Further, to solve this problem, samples of a molding composition consisting of heated wax for casting or injection molding - for use in a process for making one or more embedded stones, comprising embedding the sample in a refractory molding compound and subsequently applying a molding compound, metal is poured into the mold and the piece of jewelery is removed from the mold after the metal has solidified,

- producing an original pattern with empty slots for the stones,

- patterning of the original sample, which does not yet include stones, to produce an original pattern,

- preparing a sample of the sample mass in its original form,

- placing the stones in the sample,

- fixing the respective stone in its socket by plastic deformation of the sample socket.

In the process of the present invention, as in the prior art, an original sample of the piece of jewelery to be produced is prepared. This original pattern has one or more slots for the number of stones you want, but the stones are not inserted in the original pattern. Hook (sooty) socket • · * ·

For example, in the case of 7, the hook for holding the jewels is not bent inward, but rather retains its original direction which was occupied before the jewels were inserted. Subsequently, a negative shape is obtained from the original sample, in which no jewel stone has been inserted yet, and the sample of the piece of jewelry is cast in this original form. Wax is used as a modeling compound.

The pattern thus obtained is then provided with the jewels, whereby these stones are placed in sockets for this purpose. Because the pattern represents a positive shape of the jewelry, the stones, just like the original jewelry, can be inserted into the sockets from the completely free face of the jewelry, so that the stones do not need the negative shape (original shape) hard to access recesses. The stones can be inserted into the wax sample sockets, for example, by means of a narrow suction applicator, in which the respective stone is sucked in, placed in the socket and kept there by switching off the suction air. The stone is then only fixed in the socket.

The fixing of the stones in the sockets is advantageously accomplished by softening and plastically deforming them by heat, preferably by heating a tool adapted to the shape of the upper end of the socket, placing it in the socket and deforming the socket by pressing the tool towards the stone in one operation. . This is not only possible with hook sockets or socket sockets, which sometimes hold the stones in a finger-like fashion.

9 9 9 9 9 · ·

- around 8, but also with framed sockets that surround the stone all around. In the case of a framed socket, the tool used for the plastic deformation of the socket is preferably a tool with an apex on its apex, which is placed on the rim of the framed socket and then clamped to the edge of the surrounding stone.

In the case of a hook socket or pin socket, however, it is preferable to use a tool having projections corresponding to the hooks or socket which place the heated tool on the hooks or projections, thereby softening it, becoming fluid, and adhering to the edges of the adjacent stone. for which a short contact with the tool is sufficient. This has proven that there is no need to deform all the hooks or studs to fix the stones, since a thermally deformed hook is more closely connected to the edge of the stone than a metallic, conventionally pressed hook. It is therefore advantageous to deform only a portion of the hooks and leave the remaining hooks intact. In this way, despite the deformation of the individual hooks, the hooked socket gives the impression of a normal socket thanks to the unhooked hooks. In the case of a hook socket with four hooks, preferably only two opposing hooks are deformed per stone, and preferably with three hooks with six hooks.

Inserting and fixing the stones in the pattern is such an easy task that it can be easily mastered by unskilled workers after a short training. Therefore, the process according to the invention is particularly suitable for the industrial mass production of jewelry pieces. It has already been demonstrated in the experimental phase of the process according to the invention that the cost of incorporating stones can be greatly reduced. Compared to conventional techniques, where stones are placed in a ready-made ring rail, the cost of incorporation can be reduced to one-tenth. Compared to the conventional wax melting process, in which the stones are already cast into the wax sample, they can be reduced to one quarter of the cost.

Further processing of the sample produced according to the invention is carried out in a manner known per se for spinning or vacuum-assisted casting of jewelry. The invention will now be described in more detail by means of the following example:

An original piece of metal, such as a ring, which is intended to be provided with a plurality of stones, is made in an art known manner. The original pattern has hooks for the stones, but the stones are not inserted. The original sample is placed between two blocks of thermoplastic silicone elastomer which are then heated and pressed together. As a result, the silicone elastomer is plastically deformed and aligned with the original pattern, resulting in a fake print of the original pattern on the two blocks. The two blocks thus modified form two parts of an original mold into which wax is subsequently injected. After the wax has cooled, the original shape is opened and the wax sample of the jewelry is removed. In the wax patterned sockets, which consist of four or four hooks, for example, then use a suction applicator to

Inserting and securing the desired stones 10, whereby a fork-shaped tool, the two arms of which are electrically heated and spaced at a distance between two opposing hooks, is placed on two opposing hooks of the respective socket and is lightly pressed, by softening and watering the hooks, resulting in the hooks extending over the edge of the adjacent stone.

A sufficient number of the wax samples thus obtained are then formed into a wax sample in a manner known per se, placed in a cuvette and discarded with fine gypsum such as alabaster. After setting the plaster, the cuvette is heated to thaw the wax. The cuvette retains the cast of the wax bunch. The cuvette is heated to approximately 750 ° C, placed in a spinning casting machine and poured into a melted 14 carat gold alloy which is allowed to freeze in the rotating cuvette. After the cuvette has been cooled to 40 ° C, the plaster is disintegrated to release the molded bouquet. The pieces of jewelry are then cut off, cleaned and optionally polished.

The method described is particularly suitable for making jewelery with small stones, the sockets of which have short hooks of a length not exceeding 2.5 or 3 mm.

* «· * •» · ««

Claims (6)

Claims A process for making jewelry with one or more embedded stones, comprising: - making an original pattern with stones for empty stones, - printing the original sample without the stones to produce the original, - preparing a sample of the molding compound formed by casting or injection molding wax heated by heating, - placing stones in the sample sockets, - fixing the respective stone in its socket by plastic deformation of the sample socket, - forming a mold by embedding the sample in a refractory molding compound and folding the molding compound out of the mold, - we pour metal into the mold, - after the metal has solidified, the jewelry is removed from the mold. 2. A method for producing samples from a molding composition of castable or injection molded, wax-release wax for use in a method of making one or more embedded stone jewelery comprising: embedding the sample in a refractory molding compound and then pouring the molding into a mold, and removing the respective piece of jewelry from the mold after the metal has solidified, when - original pattern with empty slots for stones • * · · · · 4 - we produce 12, - patterning of the original sample, which does not yet include stones, to produce an original pattern, - preparing a sample of the sample mass in its original form, - placing the stones in the sample, - fixing the respective stone by plastic deformation of the sample socket in its socket. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the sockets are deformed by heat treatment. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that a tool adapted to the shape of the upper end of the respective socket is heated, placed on the socket and deformed in a single step by pressing the tool. 5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the sockets are deformed only occasionally. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that, in the case of hook sockets or socket sockets, only a part of the hook or socket socket is deformed.