CA2125152A1 - Process for producing cast and set pieces of jewellery - Google Patents

Process for producing cast and set pieces of jewellery

Info

Publication number
CA2125152A1
CA2125152A1 CA002125152A CA2125152A CA2125152A1 CA 2125152 A1 CA2125152 A1 CA 2125152A1 CA 002125152 A CA002125152 A CA 002125152A CA 2125152 A CA2125152 A CA 2125152A CA 2125152 A1 CA2125152 A1 CA 2125152A1
Authority
CA
Canada
Prior art keywords
pattern
jewels
master
jewellery
setting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
Application number
CA002125152A
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Manfred Muller
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of CA2125152A1 publication Critical patent/CA2125152A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B22CASTING; POWDER METALLURGY
    • B22DCASTING OF METALS; CASTING OF OTHER SUBSTANCES BY THE SAME PROCESSES OR DEVICES
    • B22D25/00Special casting characterised by the nature of the product
    • B22D25/02Special casting characterised by the nature of the product by its peculiarity of shape; of works of art
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE

In order to produce pieces of jewellery with one or several set stones, a master pattern with settings for the stones is produced, a master mould is produced by moulding from the master pattern, a model is produced in the master mould with a castable or injection mouldable modelling mass that can be ejected by heating from the master mould, the stones are inserted into the model and set by deformation of the setting, a casting mould is produced be embedding the model in a fire-resistant moulding mass and by ejecting the modelling mass from the casting mould, metal is cast into the casting mould by a spin casting or vacuum moulding process and the piece of jewellery is removed from the mould once the metal has cooled down.

Description

'` ' 212~

., ~: , .

Process of Making Set Cast Pieces of Jewellery This invention relates to a process having the features ~
recited in the prior art part of claim 1. ~ ~ -DE-38 24 574 Al describes a lost-wax melting process of making pieces of jewellery. In the process a master pattern of the piece of jewellery is made first and is used to make a master mold. To make the mold, the master pattern may be placed into a flask and a molding composition, e.g., a two- `
component silicone-rubber mixture, may be poured into the flaks and cured therein. The resulting body may then be dissected into two halves and the master pattern may then be taken. Alternatively the master pattern may be placed between two blocks of thermoplastic material, which are then heated under pressure until they are ~ ~
15 plastically deformed and hug the master pattern so ~`
that a faithful impression of the master pattern is formed in the two blocks (DE-35 46 188 Al). Because the resulting bipartite master molds usually consist of ~ `
elastomeric material, they are sometimes called rubber molds. A pattern-making composition, particularly a wax, is then charged into such a master mold by casting or injection molding. When the pattern-making composition gas been cooled, the master mold is opened and the pattern is taken. A plurality of patterns are usually ', 25 assembled to form a pattern tree, which is then embedded `~
into a refractory molding composition. The molding ~`

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. ~, ;.
2 1 2 ~ 1 ~ 2 composition will be regarded as "refractory" if it withstands without deformation the action of a molten metal from which the piece of jewellery is made. When the pattern tree has been embedded in the refractory molding -~-~
S composition, the pattern-making composition of which the pattern tree is made is expelled being heated. lf the pattern-making composition is a wax or a low-melting metal, it will be melted out (lost-wax casting processl.
If the pattern-making composition is a plastic, it will be burnt out. The molten metal is then poured into the casting mold thus made. To ensure that the metal from which the pieces of jewellery are to be made will penetrate into the last corners and branches of the casting mold, the latter is rotated during the pouring lS (centrifugal castingS or the pouring is assisted by the ~pplication of a vacuum (vacuum casting). When the tree consisting of the pieces of jewellery has solidified and cooled, it is removed and the pieces of jewellery are separated from each other.

. ~ ~.' ~ ~
' .:; . ' `:

7 ''' ' f'` 212~1~2 In the making of pieces of jewellery comprising one or more set jewels it is also already known to embed such jewels in the casting. For that purpose a master pattern of the piece of jewellery in which the jewels are set is made and that master pattern is used to make the master mold, which is a negative replica of the piece of jewellery and has openings for the jewels. The jewels for the piece of jewellery are inserted into said openings of the master mold, into which the pattern-making composition is then poured or injected. The resulting pattern of the piece of Jewellery is processed further as described hereinbefore.
But it is difficult to place the jewels into the master mold in the correct positions and so to fix them that after the pouring or injecting of the pattern-making composition the ~ewels will exactly have the positions which they are in-tended to occupy in the subsequently made piece of jewellery.
The position of the jewels is often changed as they are em-bedded in the poured or injected composition and the extent to which the jewels are embedded in the injected composition may vary from pattern to pattern. This may also be caused by -~
a variation of the Jewels from each other.

From French Patent Specification 1,599,866 it is already known to embed jewels in a wax pattern, to assemble such wax patterns in a wax pattern tree and to process them further to make cast pieces of jewellery by a lost-wax casting process. But in that case the pieces of jewellery are not inserted on the wax pattern into a setting but are ~`
inserted into a wax pattern which has been made without a ~ -setting. As a result, the cast piece of Jewellery also fails to have a separate setting for the jewels.

r~ 2~2~1~2 4 :
.
From FR-A-2,366,812 it is known to make a master pattern in which a jewel is set in a setting which has al-ready its final shape, whereafter the jewel is carefully taken out so that the setting is not changed, and the empty -master pattern is ased to make a rubber mold, in which a plastic pattern is then cast with a setting into which the Jewel is inserted. Such patterns are then assembled to form a pattern tree, which is embedded in gypsum, whereafter the plastic is expelled and noble metal is cast into the re- -sulting casting mold. That practice has the disadvantage that the pattern must be made from a material which is so elastic that jewels can be inserted into the finished set- ~
ting. Difficulties will arise with the usually employed P-pattern waxes because they are lnelastic. For this reason it is recommended in FR-A-2,366,812 to use a plastic, which is expelled by a two-stage thermal process, namely, by melt-ing followed by a shocklike heating to the temperature which is required for the casting of the metal and at which the plastic is decomposed. A further disadvantage resides in that the jewel will not firmly be retained unless it has exactly the same size and shape as the jewel that had been inserted into the master pattern and this will not be the ~ `
case, as a rule, so that expensive subsequent work on the cast piece of ~ewellery will be required.

It is an ob~ect of the invention so to improve the process described first hereinbefore that exactly fit-ting ~ewels in the piece of jewellery will be obtained in the simplest possible manner without a need for subsequent setting work on the piece of jewellery.

That object is accomplished by a process having the features stated in claim 1 or 2. Desirable further fea-tures of the invention are subject matters of the dependent claims.

.~ :

r' 212~152 In the process in accordance with the invention, just as in the known process, a master pattern of the piece of jewellery to be made is malde first. That master pattern has one or more settings in dependence on the number of the intended jewels, but the jewels are not inserted into the master pattern. For instance, in a pin setting the pins intended to set the jewels are not bent inwardly but are maintained in their original orientation. The master pattern, into which a jewel has not yet been inserted, is then used to make a negative mold as a master mold and a pattern of the piece of jewellery is cast in that master mold. In that case the pattern-making composition preferably consists of a wax.

The pattern thus made is then provided with jewels in that the ~atter are inserted into the settings provided for that purpose. Because the pattern is 2 positive replica of the piece of jewellery, the jewels can be inserted into '~
the settings from the entirely exposed top surface of the `~
piece of jewellery, as is the case with an original piece of ~ewellery but it is not necessary to insert them into difflcultly accessible openings of a negative mold (master mold) in a difficult operation as in the lost-wax casting process. The lnsertion of the jewels into the settings of the pattern made of the pattern-making composition (parti-cularly of a wax pattern) may be effected, e.g., by means of a slender vacuum applicator, which is used to suck and hold the ~ewel and to insert the jewel into the setting, the je-wel is then left in the setting when the suction air has been shut off. Thereafter the jewel needs only to be fixed in the setting. The jewels are preferably fixed in their settings in that the settings are softened by the action of heat and are plastically deformed. This is preferably ac-complished in that a tool which conforms to the top end of the setting is heated and engaged with the setting and is --`` 21251~2 forced against the jewel so that the setting is deformed in a single step, This is possibIe not only wlth pln or tab settings, which locally embrace the jewels as with fin-~ers, but also with frame settings, which embrace the je~
wel throughout its periphery. In case of a frame setting the tool for plastically deforming the setting will -~
suitably consist of a tool which has at its tip a frame-like contact surface and that surface will be engaged with the rim of the frame setting and forced against the peri-pheral edge of the jewel.

In case of a pin setting or a tab setting, on the other hand, it is desi~rable to employ a tool which has pro-jections which correspond to the positions of the pins or tabs and when the tool has been heated are placed on the pins or tabs so that they are softened and flow and em~
brace the adjacent edges of the jewel; this can be accompli-shed by a short contact with the tool. It has been found that it is not necessary to deform all pins or tabs to fix the jewels because a pin which has been deformed under the action of heat will more closely contact the edge of the Jewel than a metal pin which is forced against the edge of the ~ewel in the conventional manner. For this reason only part of the pins or tabs ~re preferably deformed în pin or tab settings whereas the other pins or tabs are left unde-formed. In that case the still undeformed pins will provide ~ -the customary appearance of a conventional pin setting al-though some pins have been deformed. In a pin setting com-prising four pins per jewel, only two mutually opposite pins will preferably be deformed in a setting that comprises six pins.

The jewels can be so easily inserted into and fixed in the model that said operation can perfectly be performed even by unskilled labors after a brief instruction.

-' 212~1~2 - 7 For this reason the process in accordance with the inven-tion can be adopted to special advantage for the industrial mass production of pieces of jewellery. Even in the trial phase of the process in accordance with the invention it has been found that the costs of setting jewels can be drastically reduced: In comparison with the conventional technique, in which the jewels are inserted into the cast ring rail, the setting costs can be decreased to 1/10 and in comparison with the conventional lost-wax casting pro-cess the costs can still be reduced to 1/4.

The further processing of the pattern made in accordance with the invention is performed in the manner which is known per se for the centrifugal casting or vacuum casting of pieces of jewellery. This will be explained in the example described hereinafter.
.: ~ .. .
A master pattern of metal is made in a manner known per se for a piece of jewellery consisting, e.g., of a ring, which is to be provided with a plurality of ~ewelsO
The master pattern has pin settings for the jewels but the Jewels are not inserted. The master pattern is placed be-tween two blocks of a thermoplastic silicone elastomer, which are subsequently heated and forced against each other. As a result, the silicone elastomer is plastically deformed to hug the master pattern so that a faithful impression of the master pattern i~s formed in the two blocks. The two blocks which have thus been deformed constitute the two parts of a master mold, into which a wax is subsequently injected.
When the wax has been cooled, the master mold is opened and the wax pattern of the piece of jewellery is taken. There-after a vacuum applicator is used to insert the intended ~ewels into and fix them in the settings which are formed ~ ;
in the wax pattern and consist each, e.g., of four pins.
This is accomplished in that a forklike tool having prongs - 21251~2 which are electrically heated and are spaced apart like two mutually opposite pins is engaged with two mutually opposite pins of a given setting and is slightly forced against the latter so that the pins are softened and upset and embrace the adjacent edge of the jewelO Thereafter, a wax pattern :tree is made in a manner known per se from a number of wax models thus made and is inserted into a flask, into which a fine gypsum, such as alabaster, is poured.
When the gypsum has set, the flask is heated so that the wax is molten out and the gypsum cast of the wax pattern tree is left in the flask. The flask is heated to a tempe-rature of about 750C and is inserted into a centrifugal ~
casting machine and a molten 14-carat gold alloy is poured ~ ;
into the flask and is permitted to solidify in the rotating flask. When the flask has been cooled to about 40C the gyp-sum is crushed to expose the cast tree. The pieces of je-wellery are then severed from the tree and cleaned and optio-nally polished.

The described process is particularly suitable for pieces of ~ewellery comprising small jewels which can be set with short pins having a length not in excess of 2.5 or 3 mm.

Claims (6)

Claims:
1. A process of making pieces of jewellery compris-ing one or more set jewels, wherein - a master pattern having empty settings for the jewels is made;
- the master pattern containing no jewels is used to make a master mold;
- a pattern is made in the master mold from a wax which can be cast or injection-molded and can be expelled by being heated as a pattern-making composition;
- the jewels are inserted into the settings of the pattern;
- the setting of the pattern is plastically deformed to fix each jewel in its setting, - a casting mold is made in that the pattern which does not yet contain jewels is embedded in a refractory molding composition and the pattern-making composition is ex-pelled from the casting mold;
- metal is poured into the casting mold;
- the piece of jewellery is taken from the mold when the metal has solidified, - the jewels are inserted only into the pattern which has been made by means of the master mold and are set in that the settings are deformed.
2. A process of making patterns from a wax which can be cast or injection-molded and can be expelled by being heated as a pattern-making composition for use in a process of making pieces of jewellery comprising one or more set jewels, wherein a casting mold is made in that the pattern is embedded in a refractory molding composition and the pattern-making composition is subsequently expelled, metal is poured into the casting mold and the piece of jewellery is taken from the mold after the metal has solidified;
- a master pattern compor comprising empty settings for the jewels is made;
- the master pattern which does not yet contain jewels is used to make a master mold;
- a pattern is made from the pattern-making composition in the master mold;
- the jewels are inserted into the pattern;
- the setting of the pattern is plastically deformed to fix each jewel in its setting.
3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, characte-rized in that the settings are thermally deformed.
4. A process according to claim 3, characterized in that a tool which conforms to the top end of a given setting is heated and engaged with the setting and the setting is deformed in a single step in that pressure is applied to the tool.
5. A process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the settings are only locally deformed.
6. A process according to claim 6, characterized in that in pin or tab settings only a part of the pins or tabs is deformed.
CA002125152A 1991-12-05 1992-12-03 Process for producing cast and set pieces of jewellery Abandoned CA2125152A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4140121A DE4140121C2 (en) 1991-12-05 1991-12-05 Process for the production of set, cast jewelry
DEP4140121.2 1991-12-05

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CA2125152A1 true CA2125152A1 (en) 1993-06-10

Family

ID=6446348

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CA002125152A Abandoned CA2125152A1 (en) 1991-12-05 1992-12-03 Process for producing cast and set pieces of jewellery

Country Status (12)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0615415B1 (en)
JP (1) JPH07505061A (en)
CN (1) CN1078182A (en)
AT (1) ATE134488T1 (en)
AU (1) AU674836B2 (en)
CA (1) CA2125152A1 (en)
CZ (1) CZ136794A3 (en)
DE (2) DE4140121C2 (en)
FI (1) FI942629A (en)
HU (1) HUT67814A (en)
SK (1) SK67694A3 (en)
WO (1) WO1993010686A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4422525A1 (en) * 1994-06-28 1996-01-04 Juergen Brauer Producing pieces of jewellery
DE19724981A1 (en) * 1997-06-13 1998-12-17 Kim Kyung Shin Dipl Designerin Article especially jewellery production by metal coating of core
DE19822572A1 (en) * 1998-05-20 1999-12-02 Variata Dorit Lang Gmbh & Co Method for producing molds and castings
ITPD20010293A1 (en) * 2001-12-20 2003-06-20 High Prototyping Sas WAX MODEL AND PROCEDURE FOR THE SETTING OF PRECIOUS STONES IS NOT A JEWEL.
AT412402B (en) * 2003-05-23 2005-02-25 Swarovski & Co METHOD FOR PRODUCING A JEWEL PIECE
CA3007075C (en) 2006-09-07 2019-10-15 Arthur E. Frankel Methods and compositions based on diphtheria toxin-interleukin-3 conjugates
KR100771200B1 (en) * 2007-08-30 2007-10-29 유영현 Imitation jewels mold manufacturing tool and manufacturing method thereof
DE102007050852B4 (en) * 2007-10-24 2009-09-10 Viva-Decor Gmbh Applicator for jewelry objects
DE102008053633B4 (en) * 2008-10-29 2011-08-25 Kindler, Thomas, 10405 Method of making a permanent bond between metal and stone
EP2653939B1 (en) * 2012-04-20 2017-08-30 ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse Dial for a clock piece
CN102920116B (en) * 2012-11-02 2015-05-20 朱志平 Manufacturing process for metal filigree accessories and jewelries
CN104308239B (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-06-29 哈尔滨汽轮机厂有限责任公司 A kind of adhered processing method of Water conservancy diversion core mandrel
CN107334232B (en) * 2017-08-08 2023-04-18 深圳市星雅珠宝有限公司 Manufacturing method of hollow diamond ring and hollow diamond ring structure
CN107647541A (en) * 2017-10-27 2018-02-02 深圳市陈金星河珠宝有限公司 The CNC digitalization processing methods of jewellery
IT201800004210A1 (en) * 2018-04-05 2019-10-05 Perfected jewelry and manufacturing process.
EP3670440A1 (en) 2018-12-21 2020-06-24 Rolex Sa Method for manufacturing a clock component
WO2022029963A1 (en) * 2020-08-06 2022-02-10 株式会社クロスフォー Method for manufacturing jewelry, and jewelry

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AT148187B (en) * 1931-06-09 1936-12-28 Daniel Swarovski Process for the production of jewelery set with stones.
DE1785448U (en) * 1957-12-23 1959-03-19 Bac A Brand Products Ltd SET FOR FASTENING JEWELERY TO OBJECTS MADE OF FABRIC.
FR1599866A (en) * 1968-11-26 1970-07-20
US3601178A (en) * 1969-11-03 1971-08-24 Gaston Marticorena Method of making a wax model of a ring with hollow crown
DE2623192B2 (en) * 1976-05-24 1980-01-31 J.E. Hammer & Soehne, 7530 Pforzheim Method for setting precious stones in jewelry bodies made of precious metal
FR2366812A1 (en) * 1976-10-05 1978-05-05 Roure Creations Sa Alain Low heat precious metal casting of jewels - with min. of stone per jewel set upside down before casting metal into mould
US4392289A (en) * 1981-06-01 1983-07-12 Charles Hoffert Of America, Inc. Manufacture of jewelry by casting with preset gems
DE3237490A1 (en) * 1982-10-09 1984-04-12 Johannes 6113 Babenhausen Puth Setting for a gem and method of its manufacture
DE3300968C2 (en) * 1983-01-13 1986-09-04 Bernd W. 8066 Bergkirchen Schmidt-Pfeil Method for casting figures, in particular clothed figures
US4630346A (en) * 1985-03-20 1986-12-23 Singer Steven M Article forming method
DE3544429A1 (en) * 1985-12-16 1987-06-19 Juwedor Gmbh METHOD FOR THE GALVANOPLASTIC PRODUCTION OF JEWELERY
DE3824574C2 (en) * 1988-07-19 1997-07-17 Michael Haeusle Method of casting precision castings

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE134488T1 (en) 1996-03-15
JPH07505061A (en) 1995-06-08
DE4140121A1 (en) 1993-06-09
SK67694A3 (en) 1995-01-12
WO1993010686A1 (en) 1993-06-10
DE59205524D1 (en) 1996-04-04
EP0615415B1 (en) 1996-02-28
CZ136794A3 (en) 1995-08-16
HU9401683D0 (en) 1994-09-28
CN1078182A (en) 1993-11-10
DE4140121C2 (en) 1994-06-30
EP0615415A1 (en) 1994-09-21
AU674836B2 (en) 1997-01-16
FI942629A0 (en) 1994-06-03
AU3084592A (en) 1993-06-28
FI942629A (en) 1994-06-03
HUT67814A (en) 1995-05-29

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Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
EEER Examination request
FZDE Discontinued