GB2464139A

GB2464139A - Jewellery assembly

Info

Publication number: GB2464139A
Application number: GB0818258A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Uriel Joseph
Original assignee: IPCS Logistical Support Ltd; Hatton Designs of London Ltd
Current assignee: IPCS Logistical Support Ltd; Hatton Designs of London Ltd
Priority date: 2008-10-06
Filing date: 2008-10-06
Publication date: 2010-04-07
Anticipated expiration: 2028-10-06
Also published as: GB2463977A; GB2466724A; US20100083700A1; GB0818258D0; GB2464139B; GB2467609A; EP2172123A2; GB2464139C; GB0916270D0; EP2172123A3; US20100083702A1; GB0903824D0; GB2467609B; GB2463977B; GB201003062D0; GB0901951D0; GB2466724B

Abstract

A jewellery assembly comprises a shank 30 and a collet 10 and a locking element 48 on each of the collet and shank shaped such they mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and shank in a predetermined relative position. The locking element may comprise two protrusions of square section diametrically opposed on the collet which cooperate with corresponding holes in the shank. The collet may be removeably mounted on the shank such that the jewellery assembly is capable of being worn with different collets or the shank may be joined to the collet by soldering or welding. A collet comprising support arms may be used and in such circumstances the shank may further comprise a support bar (100).

Description

JEWELLERY ASSEMBLY

The present invention relates to jewellery assemblies, for example jewellery assemblies composed of a shank and a collet.

Jewellery assemblies, such as ring assemblies, are commonly formed by casting a collet and a shank and assembling them together by soldering. However, there have conventionally been many difficulties to overcome at both the casting and assembly stages.

With regard to casting, a sprue needs to be connected to the mould to inject molten material which, when cooled, forms the component. The point at which the sprue connects to the mould is generally less well finished and an apparent imperfection in the finished component. This occurs because the mould is not sealed at the point it opens into the sprue, and accordingly the edge of the moulded article is often poorly defined. This problem is most noticeable on the collet, which is the centrepiece of the ring and specifically designed for aesthetic appeal.

With regard to assembly, as mentioned, the collet and the shank are moulded separately.

This is because they are generally moulded from different materials. For example, the collet may be of l8ct white gold and the shank may be of l8ct yellow gold. The collet and shank need to be soldered together to finish the assembly. However, owing to the shape of the collet, it is difficult to hold the components in the correct position for the soldering process.

The inadequacy of the clamping can lead to unwanted gaps if the collet and the shank are misaligned, or if the collet and the shank do not fit precisely.

In addition, the orientation of the collet with respect to the shank is very important in producing an aesthetic ring. Accordingly, if it is not clamped in the correct position, the application of solder to secure the collet to the shank can result in an imperfect article that cannot be corrected. This inevitably leads to significant wastage and lower production yield.

The wastage in terms of materials as well as time caused by these problems inevitably increases the cost of production.

The present invention seeks to provide an improved article ofjewellery and an improved method of manufacturing jewellery.

According to an aspect of the invention, there is provided ajewellery assembly comprising a shank and a collet, wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element, wherein the first and second locking elements are shaped to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position.

In a preferred embodiment, the cooperating locking elements enable the collet to be held in place with respect to the shank during the soldering procedure Accordingly, the dependency on a clamping device, which can be unreliable, is significantly reduced or avoided.

In addition, the cooperation of the locking elements serves not just to hold the two components in relative position, but also serves to guide them into the correct position.

Unlike a clamping element, which can hold, albeit unreliably, the components in a variety of different positions, the fact that the locking elements cooperate restricts the collet and the shank to a predetermined relative position and therefore further restricts their movement into a different position.

The cooperation of the locking elements also leads to a closer fit of the col]et and shank, thereby reducing the likelihood of unwanted gaps in the finished assembly.

The locking elements can hold the collet and shank together before they have been soldered. This means that a user can try the jewellery assembly on with different collets before the assembly is finished. The user can therefore select the design they prefer, and discard any unwanted designs without either wasting an item ofjewellery or accepting an item which did not meet their requirements.

Preferably, one of the locking elements is a protrusion and the other is a hole of similar dimensions. This allows close cooperation of the locking elements and therefore increases the robustness of the hold. With a cooperating hole and protrusion of similar dimensions, the protrusion is retained tightly within the hole, and the freedom of the collet to move with respect to the shank is thereby inhibited.

Preferably, the hole and the protrusion are of polygonal section, and more preferably of square section. By providing the hole and protrusion of polygonal section, not only are the collet and the shank held in a relative position, but any rotation of the protrusion within the hole is limited. This restricts the ability of the collet to tilt with respect to the shank, and thereby reduces the likelihood of the jewellery assembly being soldered in an incorrect alignment, increasing the manufacturing yield.

Preferably, the protrusion is located on the collet, and the protrusion is integrally moulded with the collet. Since, when assembled into the jewellery assembly, the protrusion is inconspicuously retained within the corresponding hole, integrally moulding the protrusion to the collet means that the protrusion can serve as an effective connection point for a sprue and runner system during moulding. As described above, the point at which the sprue and runner system connects to the mould is generally an imperfection of the finished article.

The present method combines the improvement of the assembly of the collet and shank with providing an inconspicuous point of entry for moulding the collet. This is especially important for the collet, as the collet is the centrepiece of the finished ring assembly.

In a preferred embodiment, the axis of the second locking element is transverse to a major axis of the collet, and the second locking element is provided at the base of the collet.

Locking elements transverse to the major axis of the collet are better able to restrict rotation of the collet about that axis.

In a preferred embodiment, the collet is provided with two diametrically opposed mechanical locking elements, and the shank is provided with two corresponding mechanical locking elements wherein the locking elements on the collet are shaped to cooperate with the locking elements on the shank to hold the collet and shank in a predetermined relative position. The provision of further locking elements increases the hold of the collet and shank, and the diametric opposition of the locking elements on the collet restricts one of the locking elements from acting as a pivot for the collet with respect to the shank.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a shank for use in a jewellery assembly according to the aspect described above.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a collet for use in a jewellery assembly according to the aspect described above.

According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing ajewellery assembly, comprising the steps of: (a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element; (b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element such that the first locking element and second locking element are provided with cooperating shapes; and (c) mounting the collet on the shank such that the first locking element mechanically cooperates with the second locking element to the hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position.

Preferably, the step of providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.

Preferably, the step of providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the shank and the first locking element.

Preferably, the second locking element is a protrusion, and the first locking element is a hole, and the second locking element provides a point by which a collet mould can be connected to a sprue for injecting molten material.

Preferably, step (b) comprises mounting the collet on the shank removably, such that different collets can be sequentially mounted on the shank, and then soldering a chosen collet into place to finish the assembly.

Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a side view of a collet according to the prior art; Figure 2 is a side view of the collet of Figure 1 from a direction perpendicular to that of Figure 1; Figure 3 is a bottom plan view of the collet of Figures 1 and 2; Figure 4 is atop plan view of the collet of Figures ito 3; Figure 5 is a perspective view of the collet of Figures 1 to 4; Figure 6 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly according to the prior art, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank, comprising a collet according to Figures 1 to 5 and a shank; Figure 7 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of Figure 6 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 8 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in Figures 6 and 7, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 9 is a side view of the ring assembly of Figure 8 viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 10 is a side view of a collet according to an embodiment of the invention; Figure 11 is a side view of the collet of Figure 10, viewed from a direction perpendicular to that of Figure 10; Figure 12 is a bottom plan view of the collet of Figures 10 and 11; Figure 13 is a top plan view of the collet of Figures 10 to 12; Figure 14 is a perspective view of the collet of Figures 10 to 13; Figure 15 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly, including a collet according to the embodiment of Figures 10 to 14 and a shank, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 16 is a side view of the section of ring assembly of Figure 15 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 17 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in Figures and 16, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 18 is a side view of the ring assembly of Figure 17 viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 19 is a side view of a collet according to another embodiment of the invention; Figure 20 is a side view of the collet of Figure 19, viewed from a direction perpendicular to that of Figure 10; Figure 21 is a bottom plan view of the collet of Figures 19 and 20; Figure 22 is a top plan view of the collet of Figures 19 to 21; Figure 23 is a perspective view of the collet of Figures 19 to 22; Figure 24 is a side view of the top section of a shank according to another embodiment of the invention, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank and indicating where a collet Figure 25 is a side view of the section of shank of Figure 24 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 26 is a side view of the section of shank of Figures 24 and 25 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 27 is a side view of the whole shank, a section of which is shown in Figures 24 to 26, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 28 is a side view of the shank of Figure 27 viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 29 is a side view of the shank of Figures 27 and 28 viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 30 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly according to another embodiment of the invention, including a shank and collet, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank and indicating where a collet would sit; Figure 31 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of Figure 30 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 32 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of Figures 3Oand 31 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank; Figure 33 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in Figures to 32, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 34 is a side view of the ring assembly of Figure 33 viewed along.the axis of the shank; Figure 35 is a side view of the shank of Figures 33 and 34 viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 36 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly according to another embodiment of the invention, including a shank and collet, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 37 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in Figures 36, viewed along the axis of the shank; Figure 38 is a side view of the ring assembly of Figure 37, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; Figure 39 is a side view of the ring assembly of Figures 37 and 38; Figure 40 is a perspective view of the ring assembly of Figures 37 to 39; Figure 41 is a top plan view of a collet moulding arrangement according to an embodiment of the invention; Figures 42 to 44 are side views of the collet moulding arrangement of Figure 41; Figure 45 is a bottom plan view of the collet moulding arrangement of Figures 41 to 44; Figure 46 is a perspective view of the collet moulding arrangement of Figures 41 to 45; Figure 47 is a top plan view of a shank moulding arrangement according to an embodiment of the invention; Figures 48 to 50 are side views of the shank moulding arrangement of Figure 47; Figure 51 is a bottom plan view of the shank moulding arrangement of Figures 47 to 50; and Figure 52 is a perspective view of the shank moulding arrangement of Figures 47 to 51 In the following description, embodiments will be described assuming that each of the components is in the orientation as it would be in a ring assembly which is orientated such that a collet is at the top of a shank. However, this is done for facility of description only, the relations between the components being equivalent in any other orientation.

Figures 1 to 9 depict a prior art arrangement example, in which Figures 1 to 5 depict a collet 138 and Figures 6 to 9 depict a ring assembly incorporating the collet 138 according to Figures ito 5.

The collet 138 comprises a substantially a frusto-conical body 140 and a support bar 142.

The collet body 140 is provided with a displaced internal shelf 144 for accepting a jewel stone or precious metal. The support bar 142 substantially follows the arc of a circle and is formed below the base of the collet 138.

The shank 146 is a substantially annular member provided with a gap 148 in which the collet 138 can sit such that the support bar 142 rests against the inner circumference of the shank 146.

When the collet and shank are to be assembled together, the collet can be clamped to the shank by support bar 142. While the support bar 142 provides a convenient means by which to clamp the two elements together, the support bar 142 can slide and rotate against the inner circumference of the shank 146. Accordingly, there can be a problem of tilting and imperfect position, leading to a misaligned collet or unwanted gaps in the ring assembly. It is sometimes the case that the application of the solder is of sufficient force to tilt or move the collet if the clamping is not sufficiently strong.

Furthermore, once the collet 138 and shank 146 have been successfully soldered together, the ring assembly, depicted in Figure 9, still has the support bar 142 at the base of the collet 138 as an unattractive bulge. This therefore needs to be filed away. However, the filing of the support bar 142 can be imperfect, in that it leaves remnants of the support bar on the inside of the shank. Alternatively, the filing process can wear away some of the inner surface of the shank or indeed can wear away some of the base of the collet.

Additionally, since the support bar 142 is moulded integrally with the collet, it is composed of the same high-value material. The filing of this support bar 142 is therefore itself a wastage which adds significantly to the cost of production.

5. Meanwhile, the problems of low production yield and the consequent wastage of imperfect products still persist.

With reference to Figures 10 to 14, an embodiment of the invention comprises a collet 10.

Collet 10 comprises a body 12 which is formed as a hollow frusto-conical element.

Accordingly, the body 12 comprises a circular top end 14 which tapers to a circular base 16 of smaller diameter. The taper forms a tapered external surface 18.

Within the body 12, an inner shelf 20 is provided around the internal circumference of the body 12. A top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 is slightly displaced into the body 12 from the top surface 14 of the body 12. The inner shelf 20 is also a hollow frusto-conical element extending to the base 16. The base 16 is therefore formed by both the inner shelf and the body 12 and defines the minimum diameter of a circular hole 24 which passes through the body 12 along its major axis.

Extending from the external surface 18 of the body 12 are two locking elements in the form of first and second protrusions 26, 28. The protrusions 26, 28 are preferably diametrically opposed with regard to the body 12 and are both displaced from the base 16 by the same predetermined amount dependent upon the size of the article ofjewellery and manufacturer preferences. However, the protrusions 26, 28 are preferably closer to the base 16 than to the top surface 14.

In a preferred embodiment, the protrusions 26, 28 have a cross section which is a square with sides of approximately 1mm by 1mm, and the protrusions 26, 28 extend about 1mm from the external surface 18 of the body 12. However, many different shapes and sizes of protrusion can alternatively be employed provided that they cooperate with corresponding holes in a shank (described below) to maintain a predetermined relative position of the collet and shank. The protrusions 26, 28 extend radially from the body 12 with regard to the circular cross-section of the body 12. In other words, preferably the protrusions 26, 28 are perpendicular to the major axis of the body 12. However, protrusions perpendicular to the external surface 18, or that project along some other axis, can be employed in other embodiments. 5.

Preferably, the protrusions 26, 28 are diametrically opposed such that they are capable of cooperating with holes located either side of a gap in an annular shank, as will be described below.

With reference to Figures 15 to 18, a shank 30 is depicted with the collet 10 mounted thereon. The shank 30 is annular and comprises two arms 31, 32 which are substantially semi-circular and which are joined at bottom ends 38, 40 thereof, but the top ends 34, 36 of which are separated by a gap 42. The arms 31, 32 taper from the top ends 34, 36 to the bottom ends 38, 40, which are thinner. The gap 42 is of sufficient size that the collet 10 can be placed within it such that the external surface 18 of the collet 10 contacts the top ends 34, 36 of the shank 30.

The shank 30 may be provided with a decorative coating 44 on the outermost surface.

Each of the top ends 34, 36 contains a locking element in the form of a hole 46, 48. The holes 46, 48 are located facing each other and are displaced from the inner circumference of the shank 30 by the same predetermined amount which corresponds to the displacement of the protrusions 26, 28 from the base 16 of the collet 10. In a preferred embodiment, the holes 46, 48 have a 1mm by 1mm square cross-section, and are 1mm deep, but are in any event arranged to correspond with the protrusions 26, 28 of the collet 10.

In another embodiment, one or more of the protrusions 26, 28 on the collet 10 can be interchanged with its corresponding hole(s) 46, 48 in the shank 30, such that each of the shank and collet is provided with two diametrically opposed locking elements to form two sets of mechanically cooperating locking elements, each set comprising one locking element on the shank, and one on the collet.

With regard to Figures 19 to 23, another embodiment of collet 50 is depicted. The collet comprises four arms 52 which are, at top surfaces 54 thereof parallel and arranged to form the four corners of a square. This is shown most clearly in Figure 22. The arms 52 are curved such that they are closer to each other at points further from the top surfaces 54.

The arms 52 meet at a vertex 56 which defines the base of the collet 50. The curvature of the arms 52 can be seen clearly in Figures 19 and 20.

Two crossbars 58 are provided such that each crossbar 58 connects two adjacent arms 52, and such that the crossbars 58 face each other. Each crossbar 58 is provided with a semi-circular hole 60 through its centre with an axis perpendicular to the crossbar 58. The two holes 60 in the crossbars 58 are arranged to be co-axial. Each of the crossbars 58 is provided with an inset section 62. The inset sections 62 are configured to conform to the surface of an imaginary sphere which rests on the top of crossbars 58. However, different shapes of the inset sections 62 can be employed depending on the purpose of the collet 50, as explained below.

Towards the base 56 of the collet 50, slightly displaced in the direction of the top surfaces 54 of the arms 52, are provided two locking elements, as described in connection with any of the embodiments of the collet described above, between the base 56 and a point 68 at which the arms 52 separate. In the embodiment depicted in Figures 19 to 23, the locking elements on the collet are protrusions 64, 66. The provision of the locking elements at the base of the collet 50 enables the protrusions 64, 66 to provide locking elements which can support the whole collet 50 rather than just one of the arms 52.

With regard to Figures 24 to 29, another embodiment of shank 70 is depicted. The shank comprises first and second arms 71, 72 which are similar to the arms 31, 32 of the shank described above except that the shank 70 is thicker towards bottom ends 74, 76 of the arms 71, 72. In addition, in a region 78 in which a collet is to sit, the shank 70 differs from the shank 30 described above. This region 78 is shown most clearly in Figure 25. The first and second arms 74, 76 split into inner first and second arms 80, 82 and outer first and second arms 84, 86.

Each of the inner arms 80, 82 substantially continues the curvature of the arm from which it has split. The ends of each of the lower first and second arms 80, 82 are tapered from an outer point 88, with is outer with regard to the radius of the shank 70, to an inner point 90.

The inner points 90 are configured to accept between them the base of a tapering collet, S and the taper between the outer points 88 and the inner points 90 is configured to correspond to the surface of the collet.

At the outer points 88, each of the inner arms 80, 82 is provided with a locking element as described in connection with any of the embodiments of the shank described above. In the embodiment depicted in Figures 24 to 29, the locking elements of the shank 70 are protrusions 92, 94.

The outer arms 84, 86 curve away from the inner arms 80, 82 and outwardly with respect to the shank 70 to top ends 96, 98. A support bar 100 is releasably placed between top ends 96, 98. The support bar 100 is a cup 102 with a partial spherical segment inset (not shown) into the top surface, connected to two side supports 104, 106 which rest on top ends 96, 98 respectively. The support bar 100 is configured such that the side supports 104, 106 are able to pass through holes 60 in the crossbars 58 of a collet similar to the collet 50 described above such that the partial spherical segment inset of the cup 102 matches the inset sections 62 of the crossbars 58 to form parts of the same spherical section support capable of supporting a spherical jewel stone or precious metal. As mentioned above, the inset sections can be configured to accept an article which is not a sphere, such as a diamond or polygonal jewel stone.

The shank 70 depicted in Figures 24 to 29 is configured to accept a collet similar to that depicted in and described in connection with Figures 19 to 23, except that the locking elements, which are protrusions 64, 66 in the embodiment of Figures 19 to 23, are holes of corresponding size and dimensions.

Figures 30 to 35 depict a shank and collet when they are placed together such that the locking elements cooperate. As shown most clearly in Figure 31, the embodiment of Figures 30 to 35 is one in which the locking elements comprise one protrusion 105 on the collet to cooperate with a corresponding hole in the shank, and one protrusion 107 on the shank to cooperate with a corresponding hole in the collet. The protrusions 105, 107 and corresponding holes are in accordance with those described above in connection with other embodiments. The two side supports 104, 106 of the support bar 100 pass through the holes 60 in the crossbars 58 of the collet.

Figures 36 to 40 depict a collet 108 in place on a shank 110. The collet 108 and shank 110 are similar to the collet 50 of the embodiment of Figures 19 to 23 and the shank 70 of the embodiment of Figures 24 to 29, except that the shank 110 is provided without a support bar 100. In addition, the lower arms 112 curve outwardly with respect to the shank 110 towards their ends. However, the ends of the lower arms 112 are still configured to conform to the surface of the collet 108.

Devices for moulding the collet 50 of the embodiment of Figures 19 to 23 and shank 70 of the embodiment of Figures 24 to 29 will be described with reference to Figures 41 to 52.

Figures 41 to 46 depict a collet mould 114 in a sprue and runner system 116. The collet mould 114 is a hollow container which conforms to the external contours of the collet, and is provided with openings at the distal ends of the protrusions 119. These protrusions connect to the sprue 118 of the sprue and runner system 1 16 in such a way that the output of the sprue leads into the open ends of the protrusions 119 of the collet mould 114. The two diametrically opposed protrusions provide the advantage that the protrusions can serve as points of connection to the sprue and runner system, thereby providing an effective hold for the mould in the sprue and runner system, as well as providing a point of entry which is inconspicuous in the finished ring assembly.

The sprues 118 are in fluid communication with a semi-circular delivery tube which is in fluid communication with a runner 120 via the sprue and runner system 116 main body 122.

Figures 47 to 52 depict a shank mould 124 attached to a sprue and runner system 126. The shank mould 124 is a hollow container which conforms to the external contours of the shank 110 according to the embodiment of Figures 36 to 40. A sprue 128 connects to the shank mould 124 through an opening between the first and second arms 130, 132. The sprue 128 is in fluid communication with a runner 134 via the sprue and runner system 126 main body 136.

Figures 41 to 52 only depict a single embodiment for each of the collet mould and the shank mould. However, corresponding moulds can be utilised for any of the embodiments herein described. Where the coil et is provided with a hole in place of a protrusion for a locking element, a corresponding protrusion is provided on the sprue 118 such that the point of entry into the collet is within the hole.

A ring assembly is constructed in the following way.

Firstly, the collet and the shank 30, 70 are moulded. In the embodiment of Figures 41 to 46, with the collet mould 114 attached to the sprue and runner system 116, molten material is passed through the runner 120 and the main body 122. This material then passes through the sprues 118 and into the collet mould 114 via the protrusions 119 on the collet mould 114.

Once the collet mould 114 is filled with molten material, the material is allowed to cool and harden before it is removed from the mould 114 in a conventional manner.

In the embodiment of Figures 47 to 52, the shank is moulded in the shank mould 124 in a procedure corresponding to that described in connection with the collet mould 114 and sprue and runner system 116.

Corresponding moulding procedures are employed for moulding the collet and shank according to other embodiments.

In some embodiments, the collet 10, 50 may then have a jewel stone or precious metal placed on the top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 or to sit in the inset section 62 and fixed into place using conventional techniques.

The collet 10, 50, 108 is then introduced into its place on the shank 30, 70, 110 such that its base 16, 56 faces radially inwards with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110. The collet 10, 50, 108 is arranged such that the locking elements of the collet 10, 50, 108 cooperate with the locking elements of the shank 30, 70, 110 as described above. As described, in a preferred embodiment, the locking elements comprise protrusions on the collet which are diametrically opposed and are the same shape and size, and the locking elements on the shank comprise corresponding holes. In this embodiment, the collet can be inserted in either of two configurations since it does not matter which of the protrusions cooperates with which of the holes. However, in other embodiments described above, the protrusions and holes can be arranged so that only one configuration is possible. This can be achieved for example by providing one protrusion and one hole on the collet and the corresponding hole and protrusion on the shank.

The locking elements hold the collet 10, 50, lOS substantially in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110. The mechanical cooperation of the collet 10, 50, 108 and shank 30, 70, prevents the collet 10, 50, 108 from sliding in a direction perpendicular to the circumference of the shank 30, 70, 110. The shank itself prevents movement parallel to the circumference of the shank.

As described above, in a preferred embodiment, the protrusions and their corresponding holes have square cross-sections of the same dimensions which restrict the rotation of the protrusions within-their corresponding holes and therefore restricts the rotation of the collet to reduce tilting with respect to the shank. However, tilting can also be restricted by other configurations of the locking elements. For example, the holes and protrusions can be of any cross-section that allows close cooperation of each set of locking elements but arranged such that the two sets of locking elements are axially offset such that there is no common axis about which the collet can rotate.

As described, the collet 10, 50, 108 is at this point held in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110. In the embodiments described, the collet and shank combination forms a ring assembly which can be placed on a user's finger. The user can therefore see the ring assembly as it would appear when finished and can decide whether the design, colour and/or selection ofjewel stones or precious metals are what they desire.

If the user decides that he wishes to substitute the collet for one, say, with a different jewel stone, the collet can be removed by separating the sets of locking elements and removing the collet from the shank. The new collet can then be introduced to the shank by repeating the procedure above.

Once the user has selected the collet and shank combination desired, the collet can be soldered to the shank. Unlike in conventional soldering procedures in which the collet needs to be held by an external clamp while the solder is applied, in this embodiment, the collet is held in place with respect to the shank by the sets of locking elements. The likelihood of the collet shifting or rotating during the soldering procedure is significantly reduced for the reasons given above.

There do not need to be exactly two locking elements provided on each of the collet and shank. There can be only one set of cooperating locking elements, or there can be multiple sets.

The embodiments have been described with respect to a ring assembly. However, by varying the dimensions and details of the collet and shank, the aspects described abOve can be used in the manufacture of many sorts ofjewellery assemblies, such as bracelet or necklace assemblies.

Features and/or modifications of the various embodiments can be combined or interchanged as required.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A jewellery assembly comprising a shank and a collet, wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element, wherein the first and second locking elements are shaped to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position.
2. Ajewellery assembly according to claim 1, wherein one of the first and second locking elements is a protrusion and the other is a hole of corresponding dimensions.
3. Ajewellery assembly according to claim 2, wherein the protrusion and hole are of polygonal section.
4. A jewellery assembly according to claim 3, wherein the protrusion and hole are of square section.
5. Ajewellery assembly according to any of claims 2 to 4, wherein the second locking element is the protrusion which is integrally moulded with the collet.
6. Ajewellery assembly according to any preceding claim wherein a major axis of the second locking element is perpendicular to a major axis of the collet, and wherein the second locking element is provided at a base of the collet.
7. A shank for use in ajewellery assembly according to any preceding claim.
8. A collet for use in ajewellery assembly according to any of claims Ito 6.
9. A method of manufacturing ajewellery assembly, comprising the steps of: (a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element; (b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element such that the first locking element and the second locking element are provided with cooperating shapes; and (c) mounting the collet onto the shank such that the first locking element mechanically cooperates with the second locking element to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position.
10. A method according to claim 9, wherein step (b) comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.
11. A method according to claim 9 or 10, wherein at step (b) the collet is mounted on the shank removably such that the jewellery assembly is capable of being worn with different collets.
12. A method according to any of claims 9 to 11 further comprising a step after step (C): (d) joining the collet to the shank by soldering or welding to inhibit their subsequent separation.
13. Ajewellery assembly substantially as described and with reference to each of Figures to 52 of the accompanying drawings.
14. A shank for ajewellery assembly substantially as described and with reference to each of Figures 10 to 52 of the accompanying drawings.
15. A collet for a jewellery assembly substantially as described and with reference to each of Figures 10 to 52 of the accompanying drawings.
16. A method of manufacturing ajewellery assembly substantially as described and with reference to each of Figures 41 to 52 of the accompanying drawings.