US20100083700A1

US20100083700A1 - Jewelry assembly

Info

Publication number: US20100083700A1
Application number: US12/399,558
Authority: US
Inventors: Uriel Joseph; Yonithan Joseph
Original assignee: IPCS Logistical Support Ltd
Current assignee: Hatton Designs of London Ltd
Priority date: 2008-10-06
Filing date: 2009-03-06
Publication date: 2010-04-08
Also published as: GB0916270D0; GB0818258D0; GB2464139C; EP2172123A3; US20100083702A1; GB2467609B; GB0901951D0; GB201003062D0; GB2466724A; EP2172123A2; GB2467609A; GB0903824D0; GB2463977B; GB2463977A; GB2464139B; GB2464139A; GB2466724B

Abstract

A jewelry assembly comprises a shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) and a collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and a locking element (26, 28, 46, 48, 64, 66, 92, 94, 105, 107, 152, 162, 166, 170, 182, 184, 196, 202) on each of the collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet (10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186) and shank (30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198) in a predetermined relative position. Two locking elements (26, 28, 46, 48, 64, 66, 92, 94, 105, 107, 152, 162, 166, 170, 182, 184, 196, 202) may be provided on each side of the collet which are rounded protrusions and which cooperate with corresponding holes in the shank.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to jewelry assemblies and methods of manufacturing jewelry assemblies.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Jewelry assemblies, such as ring assemblies, are commonly formed by casting a collet and a shank separately. The collet and the shank are generally moulded from different materials. For example, the collet may be moulded from 18 ct white gold and the shank from 18 ct yellow gold. In order to provide a finished assembly, the collet and the shank need to be held in a predetermined relative position and fixed together for example by soldering. However, owing to the shape of the collet, it is difficult to hold the components in the correct position for the soldering process.
In the prior art, the base of the collet is generally provided with a support bar which provides an extension on either side of the base of the collet and which can rest against the inner circumference of the shank. The support bar can then be used to clamp the collet to the shank whilst the solder is applied to fix the assembly together. Once the collet and the shank have been soldered together, the support bar can be removed by filing it down.
In order to perform the above mentioned procedure, considerable jeweller time and skill is required to place and clamp the collet in the correct orientation with respect to the shank. Slight variations in the relative position or orientation of the collet and shank will have a significant effect on the aesthetic appearance of the finished product. If the collet is designed to accept a diamond or other precious stone to make a high quality and expensive item of jewelry, the slightest imperfection can result in rejection of the entire item of jewelry.
The inadequacy of clamping can also lead to unwanted gaps if the collet and the shank are misaligned, or if the collet and the shank do not fit precisely.
The orientation of the collet with respect to the shank is very important in producing an aesthetically acceptable ring. Accordingly, if it is not clamped in the correct position, the application of solder to secure the collet to the shank can result in an imperfect article that cannot be corrected. This inevitably leads to significant wastage and lower production yield.
The wastage in terms of materials as well as time caused by these problems inevitably increases the cost of production.
In addition to the problem of aligning the collet and shank before applying solder, there is the additional problem that the clamping of the collet to the shank will not be sufficient to prevent the components from moving or rotating with respect to each other as the solder is applied. Accordingly, considerable expertise and professional time is required, but even this can not remove the possibility of errors being introduced at this stage which can lead to imperfect articles being manufactured.
Once the collet and the shank have been soldered together, the support bar still remains as an unattractive and potentially uncomfortable feature on the inside surface of the shank. As mentioned above, it is therefore necessary for this to be removed, often by filing. However, this inevitably results in wastage of some of the expensive material from which the collet has been moulded. In addition, this tidying up process has only a small margin of error. If an insufficient amount of the support bar is filed off, the shank remains with an unattractive bulge below the collet. On the other hand, if too much is filed away, then part of the shank is also removed, adversely affecting the appearance and strength of the finished assembly.
Problems also occur at the casting stage. In order to cast a component, a sprue needs to be connected to a mould to inject molten material which, when cooled, forms the component.
There is therefore always a point at which the sprue connects to the mould, and this point is generally less well finished and an apparent imperfection in the final article. This occurs because the mould is not sealed at the point at which it opens into the sprue, and the edge of the moulded article is therefore often poorly defined. Such an imperfection is most noticeable on the collet, since this is the centrepiece of the ring assembly and is specifically designed for aesthetic appeal.
There are known ring assemblies in which the collet is changeable with respect to the shank. One such example is described in US2007/0056321, in which a ring is formed with a circular body with two angled ends in between which an interchangeable setting can be secured by a tensile force fit. The setting is provided with laterally extending tabs which can fit into slots in the angled ends of the circular body to resist this being ejected by the tensile force fit.
JP8173222 discloses an annular ring member and a rotary stone carrying body, wherein the body is rotatably coupled to the annular ring member. The stone carrying body can be rotated such that any one of a plurality of faces is located as the outer-most face of the ring. In one embodiment, this is achieved by having a cuboidal (square) body which is positioned between two parallel square ends of the annular ring member. The cuboidal body is provided with two laterally extending shanks which extend from the rotary body into corresponding bores in the faces of the annular ring member. Four small protrusions are provided around the shanks which align with recesses in the square ends of the ring to form a ratchet effect by cooperating with corresponding holes in the faces of the annular ring member to allow the rotary body to be clipped into any one of the four positions.
WO 96/33633 discloses a device in which a removable setting for a jewelry item includes a threaded stem and locking pins. U.S. Pat. No. 4,220,017 discloses a component which can be converted into a ring, a pendent, or potentially a brooch by providing a riveting bar which can be placed through the shank and collet to connect them together. JP 11305671 discloses a device in which a base holding a jewel can be detachably connected to a sample body by magnetic means and by their relative rotation to enable two engaging parts to cooperate. DE 1242030 discloses the retention of a jewel which utilises stamped claws that are then held together with the use of an outer ring. U.S. Pat. No. 5,433,090 discloses a ring in which the bead or ball is held in position either by the tensile strength of the shank ends, or by being fitted into notches in the end portions.
It is considered that the above described devices on the whole are not suitable for high value rings which carry high value gemstones. In addition, for rings in which the collet is interchangeable, the features necessary to enable the interchangeability generally impose significant limitations on the possible designs that can be used and are on the whole unsuitable for delicate jewelry items. Furthermore, interchangeability in some devices requires distorting parts of the ring which can lead to permanent deformation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention seeks to provide an improved article of jewelry and an improved method of manufacturing jewelry.
According to an aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:

- (a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element;
- (b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element;
- (c) mounting the collet onto the shank such that the first mechanical locking element mechanically cooperates with the second mechanical locking element to hold the collet and shank in a predetermined relative position; and
- (d) fixing the collet to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation;
- wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess.

Preferably, the mechanical locking elements have substantially spherical or part-spherical shapes.
In a preferred embodiment, at least one mechanical locking element on the collet and at least one mechanical locking element on the shank provides the assembly with a means to hold the two components in a reliable position relative to one another. This is able to address many of the problems previously associated with assembly. It removes the need to provide a support bar since the collet no longer needs to be clamped to the shank when the two are soldered together, significantly reducing the operator time and expertise that is otherwise required to align the collet and shank, and reducing or avoiding the dependency on a clamping device, which can be unreliable. Instead, the collet and shank are guided together by the locking elements into the required predetermined relative position.
In addition, the cooperation of the locking elements preferably serves not just to hold the two components in relative position, but also serves to guide them into the correct position. In the preferred embodiment there is provided a plurality of first locking elements and a plurality of second locking elements most preferably four of each type. In some embodiments, the first locking elements are all located on the shank and the second locking elements are all located on the collet, although it is envisaged that in some embodiments each of the shank and the collet could be provided with at least one first and at least one second locking element.
In the preferred embodiments, the cooperation of the locking elements also leads to a closer fit of the collet and shank, thereby reducing the likelihood of unwanted gaps in the finished assembly. With a cooperating recess and protrusion of similar dimensions, the protrusion is retained tightly within the recess, and the freedom of the collet to move with respect to the shank is thereby inhibited.
In addition, unlike with the support bar of the prior art fitting method, the mechanical locking elements allow the shank and the collet to be positioned only in the predetermined relative position. Accordingly, there is a significantly reduced risk of the collet and shank being pushed out of alignment during the soldering process since the locking elements do not permit movement of two components relative to one another, and in the preferred embodiments, prevents also their relative rotation.
Furthermore, since one of the locking elements is a protrusion and the other is preferably a recess of corresponding dimensions, once the two are engaged they are no longer visible. Accordingly, there is no necessity to file away any part of the ring assembly. Its susceptibility to being damaged after final fixing is therefore also reduced, increasing the manufacturing yield.
In the preferred embodiment the locking elements are able to hold the collet and the shank together before they have been fixed for example by welding or soldering. This means that a user can try the jewelry assembly with different collets or different shanks before the assembly is finished, allowing the user to select the design they prefer without requiring the complete fabrication of a ring in advance. This can thus provide for customisation of a ring.
It has been discovered that many configurations of mechanical locking elements restrict the freedom of design for manufacturing collets and shanks. This is particularly the case when the desired shank is a very thin ring or is a ring in which the shanks splits into a plurality of support bars in the region of the collet.
The system taught herein, by providing the rounded mechanical locking elements, is able to provide mechanical locking elements which can be discreetly placed on even very thin or small support elements and small collets to provide a reliable holding effect before the assembly is finally fixed.
An advantage of the provision of the mechanical locking elements as a ball-shaped (i.e. substantially semi-spherical) protrusion and a corresponding ball-shaped (i.e. substantially semi-spherical) recess, is that the protrusion tends to roll into the recess as the collet and shank are placed together. This means that the locking elements are easy to engage, but also means that the elements are more tolerant to a slight discrepancy in their manufacture, unlike for example locking elements with sharp edges which would require more precise manufacture.
The fact that the recess and protrusion are rounded without corners enables dust and manufacturing residue to be cleaned easily as sharp edges and inaccessible corners are avoided. These would otherwise provide locations for dust accumulation which can prevent the locking elements achieving a snug fit. Rotation of the collet with respect to the shank can be prevented by providing at least two locking elements on either side of the collet to cooperate with corresponding locking elements on the shank. Each set of locking elements provides spaced locking positions which act to prevent rotation of the shank and collet relative to one another.
Preferably, a protrusion is on and integrally moulded with the collet. Since, when assembled into the jewelry assembly, the protrusion is inconspicuously retained within the corresponding recess, integrally moulding the protrusion to the collet means that the protrusion can serve as an effective connection point for a sprue and runner system during moulding. As described herein, the point at which the sprue and runner system connects to the mould is generally an imperfection of the finished article. The present method combines the improvement of the assembly of the collet and shank with providing an inconspicuous point of entry for moulding the collet. This is especially important for the collet, as the collet is the centrepiece of the finished ring assembly.
In one embodiment, the axis of the second locking element is transverse to a major axis of the collet, and the second locking element is provided at the base of the collet. Locking elements transverse to the major axis of the collet can be effective at restricting rotation of the collet about that axis.
Preferably, the step of providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.
Preferably, the step of providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element comprises integrally moulding the shank and the first locking element.
Preferably, the second locking element is a protrusion, and the first locking element is a recess, and the second locking element provides a point by which a collet mould can be connected to a sprue for injecting molten material.
Preferably, step (b) comprises mounting the collet on the shank removably, such that different collets can be sequentially mounted on the shank, and then soldering a chosen collet into place to finish the assembly.
According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a jewelry assembly comprising a shank and a collet, wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element, wherein the first and second locking elements are arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position; wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess wherein the collet is fixed to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation.
According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a kit for the manufacture of a ring, the kit including a plurality of shanks and a plurality of collets as herein specified wherein at least one of the plurality of shanks and the plurality of collets includes at least two different designs.
In an embodiment, the kit includes shanks and collets of non-valuable material, such as of base metal or an alloy or a plastics material. Such a kit can be particularly beneficial where the customer is not able to visit the premises where the ring is manufactured or sold. The manufacturer or seller is able to send a plurality of either shanks or collets, possibly in a less expensive base material. The customer is then able to select the combination that they prefer.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a side view of a collet according to the prior art;

FIG. 2 is a side view of the collet of FIG. 1 from a direction perpendicular to that of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a bottom plan view of the collet of FIGS. 1 and 2;

FIG. 4 is a top plan view of the collet of FIGS. 1 to 3;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view of the collet of FIGS. 1 to 4;

FIG. 6 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly according to the prior art, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank, comprising a collet according to FIGS. 1 to 5 and a shank;

FIG. 7 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of FIG. 6 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 8 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 9 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 8 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 10 is a side view of an example of a collet;

FIG. 11 is a side view of the collet of FIG. 10, viewed from a direction perpendicular to that of FIG. 10;

FIG. 12 is a bottom plan view of the collet of FIGS. 10 and 11;

FIG. 13 is a top plan view of the collet of FIGS. 10 to 12;

FIG. 14 is a perspective view of the collet of FIGS. 10 to 13;

FIG. 15 is a side view of the top section of a ring assembly, including a collet according to the example of FIGS. 10 to 14 and a shank, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 16 is a side view of the section of ring assembly of FIG. 15 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 17 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in FIGS. 15 and 16, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 18 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 17 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 19 is a side view of another example of a collet;

FIG. 20 is a side view of the collet of FIG. 19, viewed from a direction perpendicular to that of FIG. 10;

FIG. 21 is a bottom plan view of the collet of FIGS. 19 and 20;

FIG. 22 is a top plan view of the collet of FIGS. 19 to 21;

FIG. 23 is a perspective view of the collet of FIGS. 19 to 22;

FIG. 24 is a side view of the top section of a shank according to the example of FIGS. 19-23, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank and indicating where a collet would sit;

FIG. 25 is a side view of the section of shank of FIG. 24 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 26 is a side view of the section of shank of FIGS. 24 and 25 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 27 is a side view of the whole shank, a section of which is shown in FIGS. 24 to 26, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 28 is a side view of the shank of FIG. 27 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 29 is a side view of the shank of FIGS. 27 and 28 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 30 is a side view of the top section of another example of a ring assembly, including a shank and collet, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank and indicating where a collet would sit;

FIG. 31 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of FIG. 30 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 32 is a side view of the section of the ring assembly of FIGS. 30 and 31 viewed parallel to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 33 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in FIGS. 30 to 32, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 34 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 33 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 35 is a side view of the shank of FIGS. 33 and 34 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 36 is a side view of the top section of another example of a ring assembly, including a shank and collet, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 37 is a side view of the whole ring assembly, a section of which is shown in FIG. 36, viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 38 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 37, viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 39 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIGS. 37 and 38;

FIG. 40 is a perspective view of the ring assembly of FIGS. 37 to 39;

FIG. 41 is a top plan view of a collet moulding arrangement according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 42 to 44 are side views of the collet moulding arrangement of FIG. 41;

FIG. 45 is a bottom plan view of the collet moulding arrangement of FIGS. 41 to 44;

FIG. 46 is a perspective view of the collet moulding arrangement of FIGS. 41 to 45;

FIG. 47 is a top plan view of a shank moulding arrangement according to an embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 48 to 50 are side views of the shank moulding arrangement of FIG. 47;

FIG. 51 is a bottom plan view of the shank moulding arrangement of FIGS. 47 to 50;

FIG. 52 is a perspective view of the shank moulding arrangement of FIGS. 47 to 51;

FIG. 53 is a perspective view of a collet according to an embodiment of this invention;

FIG. 54 is a side view of the collet of FIG. 53;

FIG. 55 is a partial side view of the region circled in FIGS. 53 and 54;

FIG. 56 is a partial perspective view of the region circled in FIGS. 53 and 54;

FIG. 57 is a side view of a shank according to the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 56 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 58 is a perspective view of the shank of FIG. 57;

FIG. 59 is a partial side view of the region circled in FIGS. 57 and 58 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 60 is a partial perspective view of the region circled in FIGS. 57 and 58;

FIG. 61 is a side view of a ring assembly according to the embodiment of FIGS. 53-60 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 62 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 61 viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 63 is a partial side view of the region circled in FIGS. 61 and 62 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 64 is a partial side view of the region circled in FIGS. 61 and 62 viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIG. 65 is a side view of a collet according to another embodiment of this invention;

FIG. 66 is a side view of the collet of FIG. 65, viewed along a perpendicular axis;

FIGS. 67 and 68 are partial side views of the region circled in FIGS. 65 and 66 viewed along respective axes;

FIG. 69 is a side view of a shank according to the embodiment of FIGS. 65-68;

FIG. 70 is a perspective view of the shank of FIG. 69;

FIGS. 71 and 72 are partial side and perspective views respectively of the region circled in FIGS. 69 and 70;

FIG. 73 is a side view of a ring assembly according to the embodiment of FIGS. 65 to 72 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 74 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 73 viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank;

FIGS. 75 and 76 are partial side views along the axis of the shank and perpendicular to the shank respectively, of the region circled in FIGS. 73 and 74;

FIG. 77 is a side view of a collet according to another embodiment of this invention;

FIG. 78 is a perspective view of the collet of FIG. 77;

FIGS. 79 and 80 are partial side and perspective views respectively of the region circled in FIGS. 77 and 78;

FIG. 81 is a side view of a shank according to the embodiment of FIGS. 77-80;

FIG. 82 is a perspective view of the shank of FIG. 81;

FIGS. 83 and 84 are partial side and perspective views respectively of the region circled in FIGS. 81 and 82;

FIG. 85 is a side view of a ring assembly according to the embodiment of FIGS. 77-84 viewed along the axis of the shank;

FIG. 86 is a side view of the ring assembly of FIG. 85 viewed perpendicular to the axis of the shank; and

FIGS. 87 and 88 are partial side views along and perpendicular to the axis of the shank respectively, of the region circled in FIGS. 85 and 86.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

In the following description, examples and embodiments will be described assuming that each of the components is in the orientation as it would be in a ring assembly which is orientated such that a collet is at the top of a shank. However, this is done for facility of description only, the relations between the components being equivalent in any other orientation.
FIGS. 1 to 9 depict a prior art arrangement example, in which FIGS. 1 to 5 depict a collet 138 and FIGS. 6 to 9 depict a ring assembly incorporating the collet 138 according to FIGS. 1 to 5.
The collet 138 comprises a substantially frusto-conical body 140 and a support bar 142. The collet body 140 is provided with a displaced internal shelf 144 for accepting a jewel stone or precious metal. The support bar 142 substantially follows the arc of a circle and is formed below the base of the collet 138.
The shank 146 is a substantially annular member provided with a gap 148 in which the collet 138 can sit such that the support bar 142 rests against the inner circumference of the shank 146.
When the collet and shank are to be assembled together, the collet can be clamped to the shank by support bar 142. While the support bar 142 provides a convenient means by which to clamp the two elements together, the support bar 142 can slide and rotate against the inner circumference of the shank 146. Accordingly, there can be a problem of tilting and imperfect position, leading to a misaligned collet or unwanted gaps in the ring assembly. It is sometimes the case that the application of the solder is of sufficient force to tilt or move the collet if the clamping is not sufficiently strong.
Furthermore, once the collet 138 and shank 146 have been successfully soldered together, the ring assembly, depicted in FIG. 9, still has the support bar 142 at the base of the collet 138 as an unattractive bulge. This therefore needs to be filed away. However, the filing of the support bar 142 can be imperfect, in that it leaves remnants of the support bar on the inside of the shank. Alternatively, the filing process can wear away some of the inner surface of the shank or indeed can wear away some of the base of the collet.
Additionally, since the support bar 142 is moulded integrally with the collet, it is composed of the same high-value material. The filing of this support bar 142 is therefore itself a wastage which adds significantly to the cost of production.
Meanwhile, the problems of low production yield and the consequent wastage of imperfect products still persist.
With reference to FIGS. 10 to 14, an example of a collet 10 is shown. Collet 10 comprises a body 12 which is formed as a hollow frusto-conical element. Accordingly, the body 12 comprises a circular top end 14 which tapers to a circular base 16 of smaller diameter. The taper forms a tapered external surface 18.
Within the body 12, an inner shelf 20 is provided around the internal circumference of the body 12. A top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 is slightly displaced into the body 12 from the top surface 14 of the body 12. The inner shelf 20 is also a hollow frusto-conical element extending to the base 16. The base 16 is therefore formed by both the inner shelf 20 and the body 12 and defines the minimum diameter of a circular hole 24 which passes through the body 12 along its major axis.
Extending from the external surface 18 of the body 12 are two locking elements in the form of first and second protrusions 26, 28. The protrusions 26, 28 are preferably diametrically opposed with regard to the body 12 and are both displaced from the base 16 by the same predetermined amount dependent upon the size of the article of jewelry and manufacturer preferences. However, the protrusions 26, 28 are preferably closer to the base 16 than to the top surface 14.
In one example, the protrusions 26, 28 have a cross section which is a square with sides of approximately 1 mm by 1 mm, and the protrusions 26, 28 extend about 1 mm from the external surface 18 of the body 12. However, many different shapes and sizes of protrusion can alternatively be employed provided that they cooperate with corresponding recesses in a shank (described below) to maintain a predetermined relative position of the collet and shank. The protrusions 26, 28 can extend radially from the body 12 with regard to the circular cross-section of the body 12. In other words, in one example the protrusions 26, 28 are perpendicular to the major axis of the body 12. However, protrusions perpendicular to the external surface 18, or that project along some other axis, can be employed in other examples.
Preferably, the protrusions 26, 28 are diametrically opposed such that they are capable of cooperating with recesses located either side of a gap in an annular shank, as will be described below.
With reference to FIGS. 15 to 18, a shank 30 is depicted with the collet 10 mounted thereon. The shank 30 is annular and comprises two arms 31, 32 which are substantially semi-circular and which are joined at bottom ends 38, 40 thereof, but the top ends 34, 36 of which are separated by a gap 42. The arms 31, 32 taper from the top ends 34, 36 to the bottom ends 38, 40, which are thinner. The gap 42 is of sufficient size that the collet 10 can be placed within it such that the external surface 18 of the collet 10 contacts the top ends 34, 36 of the shank 30.
The top ends 34, 36 of the shank 30 are tapered from the outer to the inner surface of the shank 30 to correspond with the frusto-conical shape of the collet 10. This tapering allows the collet 10 and the shank 30 to be slid together so that the protrusions 26, 28 and recesses 46, 48 described below, form a snap fit. This means that the shank does not need to be expanded by a device exerting radial force on the inside surface of the shank 30 for the collet to be inserted. Such expansion has been found to displace and/or distort some of the components and can therefore compromise the quality of the finalised assembly.
The shank 30 may be provided with a decorative coating 44 on the outermost surface.
Each of the top ends 34, 36 contains a locking element in the form of a recess 46, 48. The recesses 46, 48 are located facing each other and are displaced from the inner circumference of the shank 30 by the same predetermined amount which corresponds to the displacement of the protrusions 26, 28 from the base 16 of the collet 10. In one example, the recesses 46, 48 have a 1 mm by 1 mm square cross-section, and are 1 mm deep, but are in any event arranged to correspond with the protrusions 26, 28 of the collet 10.
In another example, one or more of the protrusions 26, 28 on the collet 10 can be interchanged with its corresponding recess(es) 46, 48 in the shank 30, such that each of the shank and collet is provided with two diametrically opposed locking elements to form two sets of mechanically cooperating locking elements, each set comprising one locking element on the shank, and one on the collet.
With regard to FIGS. 19 to 23, another example of collet 50 is depicted. The collet 50 comprises four arms 52 which are, at top surfaces 54 thereof, parallel and arranged to form the four corners of a square. This is shown most clearly in FIG. 22. The arms 52 are curved such that they are closer to each other at points further from the top surfaces 54. The arms 52 meet at a vertex 56 which defines the base of the collet 50. The curvature of the arms 52 can be seen clearly in FIGS. 19 and 20.
Two crossbars 58 are provided such that each crossbar 58 connects two adjacent arms 52, and such that the crossbars 58 face each other. Each crossbar 58 is provided with a semi-circular hole 60 through its centre with an axis perpendicular to the crossbar 58. The two holes 60 in the crossbars 58 are arranged to be co-axial. Each of the crossbars 58 is provided with an inset section 62. The inset sections 62 are configured to conform to the surface of an imaginary sphere which rests on the top of crossbars 58. However, different shapes of the inset sections 62 can be employed depending on the purpose of the collet 50, as explained below.
Towards the base 56 of the collet 50, slightly displaced in the direction of the top surfaces 54 of the arms 52, are provided two locking elements, as described in connection with any of the examples of the collet described above, between the base 56 and a point 68 at which the arms 52 separate. In the example depicted in FIGS. 19 to 23, the locking elements on the collet are protrusions 64, 66. The provision of the locking elements at the base of the collet 50 enables the protrusions 64, 66 to provide locking elements which can support the whole collet 50 rather than just one of the arms 52.
With regard to FIGS. 24 to 29, shank 70 is depicted. The shank 70 comprises first and second arms 71, 72 which are similar to the arms 31, 32 of the shank 30 described above except that the shank 70 is thicker towards bottom ends 74, 76 of the arms 71, 72. In addition, in a region 78 in which a collet is to sit, the shank 70 differs from the shank 30 described above. This region 78 is shown most clearly in FIG. 25. The first and second arms 74, 76 split into inner first and second arms 80, 82 and outer first and second arms 84, 86.
Each of the inner arms 80, 82 substantially continues the curvature of the arm from which it has split. The ends of each of the lower first and second arms 80, 82 are tapered from an outer point 88, which is outer with regard to the radius of the shank 70, to an inner point 90. The inner points 90 are configured to accept between them the base of a tapering collet, and the taper between the outer points 88 and the inner points 90 is configured to correspond to the surface of the collet for the reasons explained in connection with the shank of FIGS. 15-18.
At the tapering surface between outer points 88 and inner points 90, each of the inner arms 80, 82 is provided with a locking element as described in connection with any of the examples of the shank described above. In the embodiment depicted in FIGS. 24 to 29, the locking elements of the shank 70 are recesses 92, 94.
The outer arms 84, 86 curve away from the inner arms 80, 82 and outwardly with respect to the shank 70 to top ends 96, 98. A support bar 100 is releasably placed between top ends 96, 98. The support bar 100 is a cup 102 with a partial spherical segment inset (not shown) into the top surface, connected to two side supports 104, 106 which rest on top ends 96, 98 respectively. The support bar 100 is configured such that the side supports 104, 106 are able to pass through holes 60 in the crossbars 58 of a collet 50 described above such that the partial spherical segment inset of the cup 102 matches the inset sections 62 of the crossbars 58 to form parts of the same spherical section support capable of supporting a spherical jewel stone or precious metal. As mentioned above, the inset sections can be configured to accept an article which is not a sphere, such as a diamond or polygonal jewel stone.
The shank 70 depicted in FIGS. 24 to 29 is configured to accept a collet as depicted in and described in connection with FIGS. 19 to 23.
FIGS. 30 to 35 depict a shank and collet when they are placed together such that the locking elements cooperate. As shown most clearly in FIG. 31, the example of FIGS. 30 to 35 is one in which the locking elements comprise one protrusion 105 on the collet to cooperate with a corresponding recess in the shank, and one protrusion 107 on the shank to cooperate with a corresponding recess in the collet. The protrusions 105, 107 and corresponding recesses are in accordance with those described above in connection with other examples. The two side supports 104, 106 of the support bar 100 pass through the holes 60 in the crossbars 58 of the collet.
FIGS. 36 to 40 depict a collet 108 in place on a shank 110. The collet 108 and shank 110 are similar to the collet 50 of the example of FIGS. 19 to 23 and the shank 70 of the embodiment of FIGS. 24 to 29, except that the shank 110 is provided without a support bar 100. In addition, the lower arms 112 curve outwardly with respect to the shank 110 towards their ends. However, the ends of the lower arms 112 are still configured to conform to the surface of the collet 108.
Devices for moulding the collet 50 of the embodiment of FIGS. 19 to 23 and shank 70 of the embodiment of FIGS. 24 to 29 will be described with reference to FIGS. 41 to 52.
FIGS. 41 to 46 depict a collet mould 114 in a sprue and runner system 116. The collet mould 114 is a hollow container which conforms to the external contours of the collet, and is provided with openings at the distal ends of the protrusions 119. These protrusions connect to the sprue 118 of the sprue and runner system 116 in such a way that the output of the sprue leads into the open ends of the protrusions 119 of the collet mould 114. The two diametrically opposed protrusions provide the advantage that the protrusions can serve as points of connection to the sprue and runner system, thereby providing an effective hold for the mould in the sprue and runner system, as well as providing a point of entry which is inconspicuous in the finished ring assembly.
The sprues 118 are in fluid communication with a semi-circular delivery tube which is in fluid communication with a runner 120 via the sprue and runner system 116 main body 122.
FIGS. 47 to 52 depict a shank mould 124 attached to a sprue and runner system 126. The shank mould 124 is a hollow container which conforms to the external contours of the shank 110 according to the embodiment of FIGS. 36 to 40. A sprue 128 connects to the shank mould 124 through an opening between the first and second arms 130, 132. The sprue 128 is in fluid communication with a runner 134 via the sprue and runner system 126 main body 136.
FIGS. 41 to 52 only depict a single embodiment for each of the collet mould and the shank mould. However, corresponding moulds can be utilised for any of the embodiments herein described. Where the collet is provided with a recess in place of a protrusion for a locking element, a corresponding protrusion is provided on the sprue 118 such that the point of entry into the collet is within the recess.
The examples described above are described mainly for locking elements of square cross-sections. However, such a geometry of locking elements can still have drawbacks.
One such drawback is that the recess and the protrusion must match each other very closely in order that their corners and hard edges can fit together smoothly. In addition, elements of square cross-section or with other polygonal cross-sections provide corners and recesses which are difficult to access. In such regions, particles of dust, wax or debris from the moulding process can accumulate and restrict the smooth and close cooperation of the locking elements.
Furthermore, polygonal locking elements require a substantial amount of space on the end surfaces of the shank in order to be fitted. Accordingly, they can serve to restrict the freedom of the jewelry designer. Rather than being able to add the locking elements to his design, to a certain degree he must design his jewelry assembly around the required locking elements.
One example in which designs can be so limited is where the designer wishes to use a Tiffany® shank, which are currently very popular in the United Kingdom. These shanks are very thin (at only a couple of mm wide) and are therefore unable to support a polygonal locking element without distorting the final appearance of the jewelry assembly.
FIGS. 53 to 64 depict an embodiment which corresponds in many respects to the embodiment of FIGS. 10-18. However, in this embodiment a collet 150 comprises several collet sections 154. Each collet section 154 is similar in many respects to collet 10 of FIGS. 10-14. The number of collet sections 154 is not material to the manner of connection to the shank and there may of course be single collet section 154 for holding a solitaire gemstone.
In the collet 150, locking elements 152 extend only from outer edges 153 of the end collet sections 154. The locking elements 152 are substantially hemispherical protrusions, in this embodiment, and they extend perpendicular to the side of the collet 150.
The collet of FIGS. 53 to 56 has two protrusions 152 on each of opposite sides 153 of the collet 150. The two protrusions 152 on the same side are longitudinally aligned but separated from each other.
The hemispherical protrusions can be from about 0.5 mm to about 1.0 mm preferably from 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm, in diameter. In some embodiments, the diameter of the protrusions is greater than 0.8 mm, but the greater the diameter, the greater the restriction on the freedom of the designer for the reasons described above. In some embodiments, the diameter of the protrusions is less than 0.5 mm, but this is less likely to a provide a satisfactory hold.
By providing the protrusions as hemispherical, they can be manufactured smaller than the protrusions of polygonal section described above and can therefore be included in a range of designs. The corresponding recess for these protrusions, described below, is more reliably manufactured and can be included on even Tiffany® shanks, allowing a more extensive choice of shank for a collet with these locking elements.
In addition, the hemispherical geometry allows a greater margin of error in the manufacture of a corresponding protrusion and recess and the ability to finish these, particularly the recesses, by simply cleaning/filing. The lack of sharp corners allows the protrusion and recess to roll into each other smoothly, allowing easier cooperation and a greater tolerance of geometrical discrepancies.
The protrusions do not need to be hemispheres, but could be any rounded shape such as a part of a sphere or other three-dimensional oval or ellipse shape. However, a hemisphere is a preferred geometry for the reasons described above. A further advantage of hemispherical locking elements is that the corresponding recesses can easily be cleaned by a jeweller's ball fraze as this will match the inside surface of the hemispherical recesses to remove any debris which may otherwise restrict the cooperation of the locking elements.
The protrusions (and corresponding recesses) need not be of the same size, for instance there may be provided one larger protrusion and one smaller protrusion.
In one embodiment, the protrusion closer to the base of the collet has a diameter of 0.8 mm; the protrusion further from the base of the collet has a diameter of 0.5 mm.
The fact that two locking elements are provided on each of opposite sides means that each locking element of each side serves to restrict rotation of the collet about the other locking element of that side, further increasing the reliability of the hold in the predetermined relative position when the collet is mounted onto the shank.
The protrusions do not need to be longitudinally aligned; they can be in any configuration in which they do not share an axis of rotation. Furthermore, there can be more than two protrusions on each side 153 of the collet 150.
In some embodiments, there is only one rounded protrusion on each or on one side of the collet 150. However, in such an embodiment, there may be some rotation between the shank and collet when they are placed together.
FIGS. 57-60 depict a shank 156 for co-operation with the collet 150 of FIGS. 53-56. The shank 156 is similar in many respects to the shank 30 of FIGS. 15-18. The shank 156 comprises a tapering gap 158 in which the collet 150 can fit between ends 160 of the shank 156.
As mentioned above, the ends 160 comprise locking elements in the form of preferably hemispherical recesses 162. However, these recesses 162 are configured in any appropriate shape, size and location to receive the protrusions 152 of the collet 150 to form a close fit, and can therefore be the inverse of any of the shapes suggested above for the protrusions 152.
As will be apparent in particular from FIGS. 57 and 58 the ends 160 of the shank 156 end in walls which face one another and which could be described as pointing in towards the centre point of the shank or ring element 156. The collet 150 has corresponding faces 153, which similarly could be said to point inwardly. This orientation of the end walls of the shank ends 160 and of the collet ends 153 allows these two components to be coupled together by a push-fit, that is by pushing the collet 150 into the aperture 158 of the ring or shank 156. Springiness in the shank 156 will allow this to flex outwardly (typically by no more than a few tenths of a millimetre) and then to snap back once the collet 150 is in the correct position with no plastic deformation being sustained.
Where hemispherical recesses are used, the taper of the gap in which the collet is to sit is even more effective. As described above, the hemispherical protrusions easily roll into the hemispherical recesses. The taper allows the two components 150, 156 to slide and clip together easily, removing any requirement for pulling apart or otherwise distorting the shank or assembly which could result in damage or weakening of the final assembly.
FIGS. 61 to 64 depict the collect 150 in place upon the shank 156, with the protrusions 152 mechanically co-operating with the recesses 162.
As described above, some or all of the locking elements 152, 162 in this or other embodiments can be interchanged such that one or more of the protrusions is provided on the shank 156 to co-operate with a corresponding recess in the collet 150.
FIGS. 65 to 74 depict an embodiment which corresponds in many respects to the embodiment of FIGS. 19 to 29. However, the locking elements 64, 66 at the base of the collet 50 are provided in collet 164 by hemispherical protrusions 166 as described in relation to the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 64, except that, in this embodiment, only one is provided on each side of the base of the collet 164.
Cross-bars 168 are provided but are not provided with semicircular holes as in the embodiment of FIGS. 19 to 29 but instead are provided with protrusions 170 similar to the protrusions 166 towards the base of the collet 164.
Accordingly, the combination of protrusions 166 and 170 provides two locking elements on each side of the collet 164, providing the advantages described with respect to the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 64. Corresponding variations as described in relation to the locking elements of the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 64 can also be made.
FIGS. 69 to 72 depict a shank 172 corresponding in many respects to the shank 70 depicted in FIGS. 24 to 29. In this embodiment, the end surfaces 174, 176 of the outer 178 and inner 180 arms respectively are provided with locking elements in the form of rounded recesses 182, 184 to co-operate with the protrusions 170 on the crossbars 168 and the protrusions 166 towards the base of the collet 164 respectively. The holes 182, 184 are preferably hemispheres but can be other shapes as described in connection with the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 64, provided that the protrusions 166, 170 co-operate closely with the recesses 182, 184.
FIGS. 73 to 76 depict the collet 164 when mounted on the shank 172 such that the locking elements 170, 166, 182, 184 co-operate mechanically to hold the collet and shank in place.
FIGS. 77 to 80 depict an embodiment of a collet 186 comprising several collet sections 188. Each of the collet sections 188 comprises four arms 190 arranged in a similar manner to the arms 52 of the embodiment of FIGS. 19 to 23. However, instead of a crossbar 58 between two sets of adjacent arms, an annular member 192 is provided within the space between the arms 190 such that the outer surface of the annular member 192 contacts each of the four arms 190. The inside surface of the annular member 192 is of circular section or otherwise configured to be able to receive a jewel or other precious metal or stone within it.
On the end edges 194 of end collet sections 188 of the collet 186, the annular member 192 is provided with an extended section that closes the gap between the annular member 192 and the side arms 190 adjacent to the end edge 194.
Onto this section are provided two locking elements in the form of protrusions 196, as described in connection with the collet of FIGS. 53 to 56.
FIGS. 81 to 84 depict a shank 198 for receiving a collet 186 according to FIGS. 77 to 80. The end surfaces 200 comprise two locking elements in the form of recesses 202 which are configured to receive the protrusions 196 of the collet 186 such that the collet 186 is held in a tapering gap 204 between the end surfaces 200 of the shank 198. The end surfaces 200 of the gap 204 taper to conform to the end edges 194 of collet 186. The recesses 202 correspond to those described in respect of the embodiment of FIGS. 53 to 64.
FIGS. 85 to 88 depict a collet 186 according to FIGS. 77 to 80 in place on a shank 198 according to FIGS. 81 to 84.
A ring assembly is constructed in the following way.
Firstly, the collet and the shank 30, 70 are moulded. In the embodiment of FIGS. 41 to 46, with the collet mould 114 attached to the sprue and runner system 116, molten material is passed through the runner 120 and the main body 122. This material then passes through the sprues 118 and into the collet mould 114 via the protrusions 119 on the collet mould 114.
Once the collet mould 114 is filled with molten material, the material is allowed to cool and harden before it is removed from the mould 114 in a conventional manner.
In the embodiment of FIGS. 47 to 52, the shank is moulded in the shank mould 124 in a procedure corresponding to that described in connection with the collet mould 114 and sprue and runner system 116.
Corresponding moulding procedures are employed for moulding the collet and shank according to other embodiments.
In some embodiments, the collet 10, 50 may then have a jewel stone or precious metal placed on the top surface 22 of the inner shelf 20 or to sit in the inset section 62 and fixed into place using conventional techniques.
The collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is then introduced into its place on the shank 30, 70, 110 156, 172, 198 such that its base faces radially inwards with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110 156, 172, 198. The collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is arranged such that the locking elements of the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 cooperate with the locking elements of the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 as described above. As described, in one embodiment, the locking elements comprise protrusions on the collet which are diametrically opposed and are the same shape and size, and the locking elements on the shank comprise corresponding recesses. In this embodiment, the collet can be inserted in either of two configurations since it does not matter which of the protrusions cooperates with which of the recesses. However, in other embodiments described above, the protrusions and recesses can be arranged so that only one configuration is possible. This can be achieved for example by providing one protrusion and one recess on the collet and the corresponding recess and protrusion on the shank.
The locking elements hold the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 substantially in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198. The mechanical cooperation of the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 and shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 prevents the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 from sliding in a direction perpendicular to the circumference of the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198. The shank itself prevents movement parallel to the circumference of the shank.
As described above, in one embodiment, the protrusions and their corresponding recesses have square cross-sections of the same dimensions which restrict the rotation of the protrusions within their corresponding recesses and therefore restricts the rotation of the collet to reduce tilting with respect to the shank. However, preferably, the protrusions and recesses are hemispherical, and tilting is restricted by providing two locking elements on each side of the collet. However, tilting can also be restricted by other configurations of the locking elements. For example, the recesses and protrusions can be of any cross-section that allows close cooperation of each set of locking elements but arranged such that the two sets of locking elements are axially offset such that there is no common axis about which the collet can rotate.
As described, the collet 10, 50, 108, 150, 164, 186 is at this point held in place with respect to the shank 30, 70, 110, 156, 172, 198 by mechanical cooperation of the locking elements. In the embodiments described, the collet and shank combination forms a ring assembly which can be placed on a user's finger. The user can therefore see the ring assembly as it would appear when finished and can decide whether the design, colour and/or selection of jewel stones or precious metals are what they desire.
If the user decides that he wishes to substitute the collet for one, say, with a different jewel stone, the collet can be removed by separating the sets of locking elements and removing the collet from the shank. The new collet can then be introduced to the shank by repeating the procedure above.
In addition, the user may wish to substitute the shank for a different shank. As described above, an advantage of providing hemispherical locking elements is that the freedom of design is less restricted as such locking elements can also be included on a range of designs including the popular but extremely thin Tiffany® shanks.
One way in which this method of selection may be performed is for a remote sale operation. It can be difficult to select jewelry remotely, such as by mail-order or over the internet, since it can be difficult to tell from a picture whether a particular item will suit or fit a customer.
The embodiments described herein allow a plurality of shanks and/or a plurality of collets to be sent to a customer, possibly in a base metal or other non-valuable material. Owing to the ease with which the shanks and collets with the mechanical locking elements can be interchanged, the customer can interchange the collet and shanks until he finds one that meets his requirements. As explained above, with hemispherical locking elements, the range of deigns of shanks and collets that can be interchanged is greatly increased.
Once the customer has made his selection; he can return the possibly base metal samples and the jewelry assembly of his choice can be assembled, finally fixed, such as by soldering or laser welding, and sent to him. In this way, it is not necessary to manufacture finalised assemblies for every different permutation of collets and shanks that a customer may desire.
Once the user has selected the collet and shank combination desired, the collet is finally fixed to the shank. One method of performing this is by soldering, although other methods, such as laser welding, are possible. Unlike in conventional soldering procedures in which the collet needs to be held by an external clamp while the solder is applied, in this embodiment, the collet is held in place with respect to the shank by the sets of locking elements. The likelihood of the collet shifting or rotating during the soldering procedure is significantly reduced, typically avoided altogether, for the reasons given above.
There do not need to be exactly two locking elements provided on each of the collet and shank. There can be only one set of cooperating locking elements, or there can be multiple sets.
The embodiments have been described with respect to a ring assembly. However, by varying the dimensions and details of the collet and shank, the aspects described above can be used in the manufacture of many sorts of jewelry assemblies, such as bracelet or necklace assemblies.
Features and/or modifications of the various embodiments can be combined or interchanged as required.

Claims

1. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:

(a) providing a shank with a first mechanical locking element;

(b) providing a collet with a second mechanical locking element;

(c) mounting the collet onto the shank such that the first locking element mechanically cooperates with the second locking element to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position;

(d) fixing the collet to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation;

wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess.

2. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein at least two mechanical locking elements are provided on each side of the collet.

3. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 2, wherein the locking elements on one side of the collet are the same.

4. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein step (b) comprises integrally moulding the collet and the second locking element.

5. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 4, wherein each locking element provided on the collet is a protrusion which is integrally moulded with the collet.

6. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein at step (c) the collet is mounted on the shank removably such that the jewelry assembly is capable of being tried on with different collets and/or different shanks before fixing.

7. A method of manufacturing a jewelry assembly according to claim 1, wherein the rounded locking elements are hemispherical.

8. A jewelry assembly comprising:

a shank, and

a collet,

wherein the shank is provided with a first mechanical locking element and the collet is provided with a second mechanical locking element,

wherein the first and second locking elements are arranged to mechanically cooperate to hold the collet and the shank in a predetermined relative position,

wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion and the other is a co-operating rounded recess, and

wherein the collet is fixed to the shank to inhibit their subsequent separation.

9. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein the collet comprises a tapering outer surface and the shank comprises a corresponding tapering gap to receive the collet.

10. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein at least two mechanical locking elements are provided on each side of the collet.

11. A jewelry assembly according to claim 10, wherein the locking elements on one side of the collet are the same.

12. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein each locking element provided on the collet is a protrusion which is integrally moulded with the collet.

13. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein the rounded locking elements are hemispherical.

14. A jewelry assembly according to claim 8, wherein there are a plurality of each of the shank and the collet and wherein at least one of the plurality of shanks and the plurality of collets includes a design that differs from one another.

15. A method of providing a jewelry assembly, comprising the steps of:

(a) providing a plurality of collets and a plurality of shanks to a customer, wherein each collet of the plurality of collets comprises a first mechanical locking element and each shank of the plurality of shanks comprises a second mechanical locking element, wherein one of the first and second mechanical locking elements is a rounded protrusion, and the other is a co-operating rounded recess; wherein

the plurality of shanks and/or the plurality of collets comprises at least two different designs such that the customer can selectively assemble the jewelry assembly in at least two different designs;

(b) receiving the plurality of collets and the plurality of shanks returned from the customer and fixing a jewelry assembly according to the preference of the customer; and

(c) providing the fixed jewelry assembly to the customer.

16. A method of providing a jewelry assembly according to claim 15 wherein the plurality of collets and the plurality of shanks provided to the customer in step (a) are provided in non-valuable material and wherein the jewelry assembly in step (b) is fixed in valuable material.