FR3141620A1 - COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS The disclosure relates to methods for treating curly hair subjected to bleaching to improve or restore hair integrity, curl definitions and/or durability; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and/or volume control and/or prevent or reduce hair damage. The methods include applying a composition to the hair before or after applying to the hair a bleaching composition, the composition comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. The present disclosure further relates to routines or processes for bleaching hair, including applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to hair and applying a treatment composition. bleaching on hair, where the treatment composition is applied to the hair before or after application of the bleaching composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS

The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating curly or wavy hair in a bleaching routine to maintain and/or prevent curl elongation, maintain and/or improve curl definition, and maintain and/or restore hair integrity, as well as to provide additional general sensory benefits such as frizz and/or volume control.

CONTEXT

Consumers with curly hair may wish to maintain curls, also achieve greater curl definition and/or evenness, and improve curl hold. However, the conventional coloring/bleaching process or routines often result in loosening and/or shrinking of curls and result in unwanted lengthening of hair, as well as distortion of curl shape. Additionally, a conventional coloring/bleaching process can increase hair frizz and porosity, cause damage to extremely fragile fibers, and result in poor hair hold and reflection. Thus, consumers with curly hair often view hair coloring/bleaching as an enemy of curls.

Although some products are designed to reduce frizz and/or improve curl definition, they have disadvantages such as adding a greasy and/or crunchy feel to the hair, weighing down the hair, or ineffectiveness, particularly in humid climates. Additionally, the major bleaching products currently available do not have a solution to address both loosening/shrinkage and curl damage.

More consumers are also looking for hair products that provide a natural look and feel, a lightweight feel, while providing hair with longer-lasting styling or shaping benefits. Additionally, consumers are looking for products that provide multiple benefits, for example, combining frizz reduction and style hold with softness, maintenance or prevention of curl lengthening or elongation while providing good curl definition to hair during bleaching routines. Additionally, consumers are looking for hair products that can protect hair from external factors such as high humidity that causes hair to become very frizzy, unmanageable and lose its shape and style, or factors such as stress. mechanical or physical or other external stresses on the hair, for example, external stresses on the hair during the hair bleaching process.

As such, there is a need for new and improved products and methods that can improve curl definition, maintain or prevent curl elongation, and/or control frizz and/or hair volume, as well as improve the overall integrity and visual appearance of curly hair subject to bleaching.

The present disclosure addresses this need and is intended to develop novel compositions and methods using the disclosed compositions that may provide one or more of the long-lasting care and styling/shaping benefits described above to hair subject to bleaching. The present disclosure further aims to develop new bleaching routines that can prevent curl elongation, maintain and/or improve hair integrity, and reduce hair damage.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to methods of using compositions according to the present disclosure to treat keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, subject to bleaching to prevent or reduce curl elongation, improve fiber integrity, curl definition and durability, provide frizz control and/or volume, provide softness, as well as prevent or reduce hair damage. The present disclosure also relates to processes or routines for bleaching curly hair while preventing or restoring hair integrity, preventing curl elongation, and/or maintaining or improving curl definition and curl shape. hair.

It has surprisingly been found that a combination of components according to the present disclosure, particularly when applied to curly hair before or after treating the hair with a hair bleaching composition, can maintain or improve the fiber integrity, prevent or maintain curl elongation and curl loss due to the bleaching process and, at the same time, provide additional sensory benefits such as frizz and/or volume control, softness, feeling of natural hydration and feeling of lightness of the hair. These benefits have been shown to persist, even in high humidity conditions, and last even after washing treated hair with or without shampoo.

In various embodiments, the methods of treating curly hair according to the present disclosure include applying to curly hair a hair treatment composition and, optionally, rinsing the composition, wherein the treatment composition is applied to the hair before, during or after the application to the hair of a bleaching composition. The hair treatment composition comprises (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the hair treatment composition being less than 7. The method is generally used to maintain or improve curl definitions and/or durability, maintain or prevent curl elongation, improve and/or restore curl integrity hair and/or provide frizz control and/or hair volume.

The present disclosure further relates to methods of bleaching hair or a process of treating and bleaching hair, particularly curly hair.

In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a pretreatment-bleaching routine or process comprising (1) applying a treatment composition to the hair and maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for a period of time. desired from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, preferably from approximately 3 minutes to approximately 10 minutes or approximately 5 minutes; the treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the composition being less than 7; (2) maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for the desired period, applying a bleaching composition to the hair while the composition is on the hair; (3) then rinsing the bleaching composition treatment and the hair bleaching composition after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; (4) shampooing the hair one or more times after rinsing the treatment composition and the bleaching composition; (5) then air drying the hair or drying with a hair dryer and (6) optionally repeating steps (1) to (5).

In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a post-treatment bleaching routine or process comprising (1) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; (2) subsequently rinsing the hair bleaching composition after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; (3) optionally, shampooing the hair after rinsing the bleaching composition; (4) after rinsing the bleaching composition, or after shampooing the hair if shampoo is present, applying to the hair a treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof -this ; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the treatment composition being less than 7; (5) optionally rinsing the hair treatment composition; (6) then allowing the hair to air dry or using a hair dryer and (7) optionally, repeating the steps (1) to (6).

In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a routine or mixed bleaching and treatment process comprising applying to the hair a mixture of a treatment composition and a bleaching composition; rinsing the mixture from the hair after leaving the mixture on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; washing hair with shampoo one or more times after rinsing; and air-drying hair or drying hair with a hair dryer; the treatment composition comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the composition being less than 7.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and form part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description made above and the description provided herein, serve to explain the features of the disclosure.

There presents a set of schematic diagrams illustrating a pretreatment-bleaching routine (pre-trt), a mixed bleaching-processing routine (mix-trt), and a post-treatment bleaching routine (post-trt) according to the present disclosure.

There presents a set of photos showing strands of curly Caucasian hair treated with the composition according to the invention 1A and the comparative compositions C1 and C2 in the pre-treatment-bleaching routine (pre-trt), the mixed bleaching-treatment routine (blend-trt), and the post-treatment bleaching routine (post-trt) according to the present disclosure, compared to untreated hair and hair treated with a bleaching composition alone.

There illustrates the breaking stress of the strands of curly hair of the Caucasian type respectively treated with the compositions 1A, C1 and C2 in the pretreatment-bleaching routine, compared to the strand of untreated hair and to the hair treated with the bleaching composition alone .

There illustrates the cycles to breakage (CTB) of the hair strands respectively treated with compositions 1A, C1 and C2 via the pretreatment-bleaching routine according to the present disclosure compared to hair treated with the bleaching composition alone.

There illustrates the breaking stress (wet MTT) of strands of curly Caucasian hair treated with composition 1A respectively via the pretreatment-bleaching routine, the mixed bleaching-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, compared to the untreated, twice-bleached hair strands alone (2X bleached).

There illustrates the fiber durability (cycles to breakage (CTB)) of Caucasian curly hair strands treated with composition 1A respectively in the different bleaching routine, compared to 2X bleached hair alone.

There illustrates the denaturation temperature of strands of curly Caucasian hair treated with composition 1A respectively in the pretreatment-bleaching routine, the mixed bleaching-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, relative to the strand of hair untreated and to hair treated with the bleaching composition alone.

There illustrates the RUMBA 2D images of the Caucasian curly hair strands processed and bleached via the pre-treatment-bleach routine, the mixed bleach-process routine and the post-treatment bleach routine according to the present disclosure with respect to the hair strand untreated and to the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition alone (2X bleaching)

There illustrates strands of African American (AA) hair having tight curls treated with the bleach composition once (1X bleach) and twice (2X bleach), and the hair strands treated with the composition 1A and the composition of bleaching according to the pretreatment routine bleaching once (1A(pre)+1X bleaching) and twice (1A(pre)+2X bleaching), the hair having been pretreated with composition 1A before application of the bleaching composition, compared to a lock of untreated hair.

There illustrates the fiber durability (cycles to breakage (CTB)) of curly Caucasian hair strands and African American (AA) hair strands having tight curls treated with composition 1A in the pretreatment-bleaching routine disclosed herein, compared to cycles to breakage of untreated and once bleached Caucasian and African American hair strands.

It should be understood that the foregoing and following descriptions are given by way of example and explanation only, and are not intended to be restrictive as to any claimed subject matter.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The disclosure relates to compositions and methods of using the compositions to treat keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, in bleaching routines to improve or restore hair integrity, definitions and/or durability. loops; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and/or volume control; provide fitness control and/or discipline and/or prevent or reduce damage to bleached hair. The methods include applying a treatment composition according to the present disclosure to hair (in particular) before or after bleaching the hair. The treatment composition comprises (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water. The pH of the treatment composition is less than 7.

The present disclosure further relates to routines or processes for treating and bleaching hair, particularly curly hair. Bleaching routines or processes include applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair, and applying a bleaching composition to the hair, wherein the treatment composition is applied to the hair before or after bleaching. application of the bleaching composition to the hair.

I. COMPOSITIONS

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (c) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. When used in a bleaching routine for curly hair, the compositions can prevent or reduce curl elongation, prevent or restore hair integrity, and provide long-lasting definition curls, and control frizz and/or volume and provide overall sensory properties to the hair.

Carboxylic acids or their salts

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof. As used herein, the term "carboxylic acid" includes salts of carboxylic acids, whether or not expressly stated. Carboxylic acids that may be used include, in various embodiments, mono-carboxylic acids (one carboxylic group) or poly-carboxylic acids (two or more carboxylic groups). Preferably, the carboxylic acids are non-polymeric carboxylic acids. The carboxylic acids may be chosen, in certain embodiments, from those having a molecular weight less than about 900 g/mol, such as less than about 700 g/mol, less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 300 g /mol, or less than about 200 g/mol.

In certain embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid can be chosen from mono-carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, or a salt thereof.

In additional embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from di-carboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene di-carboxylic acid or their salts.

In yet other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from tri-carboxylic acids such as citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, 1,2-propane acid. ,3-tri-carboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tri-carboxylic acid, or their salts.

In still other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from poly-carboxylic acids which have more than three carboxylic groups, such as phytic acid.

In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of two or more carboxylic acids or salts thereof. For example, the compositions may include a mixture of two or more mono-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, or may include a mixture of two or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, such as two or more acids di-carboxylic acids, two or more tri-carboxylic acids, or a mixture of one or more di-carboxylic acids and one or more tri-carboxylic acids. Mixtures of one or more mono-carboxylic acids or their salts with one or more poly-carboxylic acids or their salts are also envisaged. In other embodiments, the composition comprises a single carboxylic acid or salt thereof.

In certain embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid , their salts, or a mixture of two or more of these elements.

In various embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of carboxylic acids and/or salt thereof ranging from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, such as about 0.1% to about 18%. , about 0.5% to about 15%, or about 1% to about 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of non-limiting example, the compositions may comprise a total quantity of carboxylic acids and/or their salts ranging from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, by weight, for example, approximately 0.5 % to approximately 12%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 0.5% to approximately about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 5 %, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1 % to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2 % to approximately 10%, approximately 2% to approximately 9%, approximately 2% to approximately 8%, approximately 2% to approximately 7%, approximately 2% to approximately 6%, or approximately 2% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of carboxylic acids and/or salt thereof ranging from about 0.5% to about 13%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10 %, and better still from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the carboxylic acid at least comprises or consists of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid , salts thereof or a mixture thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as 0.3% to about 9%, or about 0. 5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises citric acid in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 5%, especially from about 1% to about 4%, or about 1%, 1.5% , 2%, 2.5%, 3% or 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cyclodextrins or their derivatives

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly stated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.

The cyclodextrins which can be used include those of formula:

in which :

R is chosen from H, CH ₃ or a hydroxypropyl group, and

n goes from 6 to 8.

For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin may be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, it is possible to use α-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, ß-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA.

In other embodiments where R = CH ₃ , the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-ß-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl -γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-ß-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 can be chosen.

In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and/or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and/or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes β-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is only β-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in the composition.

In various embodiments, the total amount of cyclodextrins and/or derivatives thereof in a composition according to the present disclosure ranges from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, including all ranges and subranges thereof. -this, such as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 18%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 18%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7% , from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, d 'about 1% to about 18%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, 'about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, approximately 1% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of cyclodextrins ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, from about 0.5% to about 15%. , from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 13%, from about 1% to about 7%, and even better approximately 1% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise β-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as 0.2% to about 8%, about 0 .3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In various embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) and the cyclodextrin(s) present in the compositions according to the present disclosure may have a carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) molar ratio ranging from approximately 0.5: 1 to about 25:3, for example about 4:1 to about 15:1, about 5:1 to about 12:1, or about 6:1 to about 10:1, such as, for example, about 1:1 , approximately 2:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 6:1, approximately 7:1, approximately 8:1, approximately 9:1, approximately 10:1, approximately 11:1 , approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, approximately 17:1, approximately 18:1, approximately 1n9:1, approximately 20:1, approximately 3:2 , approx. 5:2, approx. 7:2, approx. 9:2, approx. 11:2, approx. 13:2, approx. 15:2, approx. 17:2, approx. 19:2, approx. 1:3, approx. 2:3 , approx. 4:3, approx. 5:1, approx. 7:3, approx. 8:3, approx. 10:3, approx. 11:3, approx. 13:3, approx. 14:3, approx. 16:3, approx. 17:3 , approximately 19:3 or approximately 20:3, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may have a weight ratio between (a) the at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof and (b) the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof of approximately 1:3 to about 6:1, preferably about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2: 1, approximately 2.5:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 3.5:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 4.5:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 5.5:1, or approximately 6:1 ,.

Polysaccharide thickening agents

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polysaccharide as thickening agent. The term “thickening agent(s)” as used herein refers to “thickener(s)” or “viscosity modifying agent(s)”. The at least one polysaccharide agent may be chosen from anionic polysaccharide thickening agents, non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agents or mixtures thereof. Polysaccharide thickening agents which may be used include, by way of example only, inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, xyloses, tragacanth gums or derivatives of the above. In other embodiments, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin or heparin. In some embodiments, mixtures of two or more of these may also be chosen.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotinia gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives can also be used, such as, for example, deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropylated guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.

In some embodiments, suitable polysaccharide thickening agents which may be used are selected from gums, such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotia gum, gellan gum, etc.

Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose), or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose). Celluloses modified with groups comprising one or more nonionic fatty chains which can be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably nonionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL ^TM Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL ^® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER ^® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Hydroxypropyl guar gums are other thickening agents particularly suitable for use in the compositions described herein.

Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, anhydride cross-linked starch. octenyl succinic, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.

In certain embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are chosen from carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, acetate starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xylose gum, cellobiose, dextrin , maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, inulin, levan or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are chosen from sclerotinia gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, cyclodextrin or mixtures thereof.

In various exemplary embodiments, the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents may vary, or combinations thereof, typically from about 0.05% to about 5%, including all intermediate subranges. such as from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3 %, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges.

For example, the compositions may, in exemplary embodiments, include a total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, or from about 0.75% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, where the polysaccharide thickening agent comprises at least a polysaccharide thickening agent may be chosen from gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum , dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotia gum, gellan gum, etc. In one embodiment, the composition disclosed herein comprises xanthan gum in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as about 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5% %, 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyols

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polyol. By way of example only, the at least one polyol may be chosen from C ₂ -C ₁₆ polyols, such as C ₂ -C ₁₂ or C ₂ -C ₈ polyols. The at least one polyol can be optionally chosen from diols and triols. The at least one polyol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or not. Any stereoisomer of the polyols can also be used. The polyol(s) in the combination disclosed herein may act as conditioning or straightening agents and improve the overall sensory properties of the hair and enhance curl definition.

In various exemplary embodiments, the polyols can be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, glycerin, ethylhexyglycerin, or mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from, for example, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2- butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl -1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol,2,4-dimethyl -2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 4-methylmethyl-1,2-pentanediol.

In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least two polyols, for example at least two polyols chosen from diols and triols. By way of non-limiting example, a composition according to the disclosure may comprise a combination of at least one glycerin compound and at least one additional glycol compound.

In various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one polyol may be approximately 1% or more, approximately 2% or more, approximately 3% or more, approximately 4% or more, about 5% or more, about 6% or more, or about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol is present in the composition in a total amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, including all intermediate ranges, such as from about 0.1% to about 9%. , from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, d 'approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0, 5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 0 .5% to approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the at least one polyol is chosen from diols and triols, and is present in an amount of approximately 1%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 2%. , about 3%, about 4% or about 5% or more by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and includes glycerin.

Water

The compositions according to the disclosure include water. In various embodiments, the amount of water in a composition disclosed herein may range from about 70% to about 98%, including all intermediate subranges, such as from about 75% to about 98%, d 'approximately 80% to approximately 98%, approximately 85% to approximately 98%, approximately 90% to approximately 98%, approximately 95% to approximately 98%, approximately 70% to approximately 95%, approximately 75% to approximately 95%, approximately 80% to 95%, approximately 85% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional components

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise one or more additional components suitable for use in such compositions. Non-limiting examples of these additional components are provided below.

pH correctors

The compositions disclosed herein may include one or more pH correctors to increase or decrease the overall pH of the composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to reduce the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of acids suitable for lowering the pH of compositions may include one or more acids. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids or bases which are suitable for adjusting the pH of the compositions are easily known to those skilled in the art. For example, in one embodiment, the pH corrector is a sodium hydroxide solution such as 0.1 M NaOH.

The amount of pH corrector in the compositions may be based on the desired pH of the final composition and/or product to improve curl definition, curl regularity and/or maintain curl elongation. For example, the total amount of the pH corrector can range from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Conservatives

One or more preservatives may be included in the compositions described here for treating hair. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin-containing compounds (e.g., glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben , etc.), sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate and/or grapefruit seed extract, or a mixture thereof this. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorophenisin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methyl isothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (miscellaneous), lactic acid, vitamin E (tocopherol) or mixtures thereof. In some cases, hair treatment compositions may include one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, or mixtures thereof. this.

The total amount of one or more preservatives, when present, may vary. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more preservatives may range from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 2% , from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Auxiliary components

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise any auxiliary components suitable for use in such compositions. These components may include, but are not limited to, dyes/pigments to add color to the composition, moisturizing agents, fatty substances, thickeners other than those described above, fillers, structuring agents, gloss, antioxidants or penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, such as apricot seed powder, opacifiers, sunscreen agents, vitamins and antistatic agents.

Optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15%, for example from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.01% at approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the compositions are acidic and may have a pH less than 7. For example, the pH of the composition may range from about 1.5 to about 6.8, from about 2 to about 6.5 , from about 2.5 to about 6, from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5. 5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4, about 3.5 to about 6.5, about 3.5 to about 6, about 3.5 to about 5.5, about 3.5 to about 5, d 'about 3.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3.5 to about 4, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 6.5. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from approximately 3 to approximately 4.

The compositions according to the disclosure may be rinse-off compositions or leave-on compositions, and are typically in the form of a gel, cream, liquid or lotion, without limitation. In some embodiments, the compositions are a non-aerosol type product, which may be dispensed from a bottle, tube, or spray bottle.

In some embodiments, the compositions may be a hair treatment product, a styling product, or a styling and management product that may be used to style hair while providing treatment and/or conditioning, as well as manageability benefits for the hair.

II. Processes Processes for preparing compositions

The disclosure also relates to methods of preparing the compositions described herein. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose specific molar or weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s) and/or salt(s), cyclodextrin(s) and/or derivative(s). ) of these, and/or solvent(s) (for example demineralized water (DI)). For example, by choosing specific molar or weight ratios of these components, it is possible to customize the compositions so that they can impart greater or lesser degrees of curl definition and/or frizz control.

Therefore, it may be useful to prepare a premix, or base mixtures, of concentrated combinations of cyclodextrin carboxylic acid(s) and/or salt(s) thereof. (s) and/or derivative(s) thereof, and solvent(s) with particular molar ratios or weight ratios. In one embodiment, the premix comprises at least one acid. carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, at least one cyclodextrin chosen from ß-cyclodextrin.

In various embodiments, in the premix, the molar ratio of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) may vary from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably d 'about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, or from about 6:1 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:1, about 2:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 6:1, approximately 7:1, approximately 8:1, approximately 9:1, d 'approximately 10:1, approximately 10:1, approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, about 17:1, about 18:1, about 19:1, about 20:1, about 3:2, about 5:2, about 7:2, about 9:2, about 11:2, about 13:2, about 15:2, about 17:2, about 19:2, about 1:3, about 2:3, about 4:3, about 5:1, about 7:3, about 8:3, about 10:3, approximately 11:3, approximately 13:3, approximately 14:3, approximately 16:3, approximately 17:3, approximately 19:3 or approximately 20:3. Consequently, the weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s): cyclodextrin(s) in the compositions disclosed here can range from approximately 1:3 to approximately 6:1, for example approximately 1:3, approximately 1:2, 5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 4.5:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 5.5:1, or approximately 6:1, including all ranges and subranges.

Once the particular carboxylic acid(s), cyclodextrins, and solvent(s), and the desired ratio thereof, are chosen, the premix may be prepared by any conventional method. . As an illustrative example only, the premix can be prepared by simply mixing the components at the chosen ratio, preferably with heating. For example, the mixture can be mixed at a temperature between approximately 40°C and 100°C, for example between approximately 50°C and 95°C. As an example, the premix may be prepared by firstly adding a carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof and cyclodextrin and/or a salt thereof to DI water; secondly by heating the mixture in a water bath at approximately 80C until the contents and mixture dissolve into a viscous liquid; third, leaving the mixture at 80C for about 2 hours to allow the ingredients to complete the reaction; finally, cooling the mixture to room temperature.

Once the pre-mix is prepared, it can then be diluted with additional solvent and other additives, including polysaccharide(s) and polyol(s), for example xanthan gum and glycerin, until the desired concentration of the final composition according to the disclosure. The additional solvent may be the same as the solvent in the premix, may be different from the solvent in the premix, or may be a combination of the solvent in the premix with one or more solvents other than that in the premix.

In one embodiment, a composition according to the present disclosure comprises citric acid, beta-cyclodextrin, xanthan gum and glycerin, can be prepared by diluting a pre-mixture of citric acid and beta-cyclodextrin to a desired concentration with one or more additional solvents, e.g., DI water, correcting the pH of the dilution with a pH corrector, e.g., 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution, adding subsequently diluting the desired amounts of xanthan gum and glycerin to obtain a mixture, and mixing further using a mixer or vortex mixer (or vortex mixer) to arrive at the compositions disclosed here.

In various embodiments, the compositions disclosed may contain a ratio of premix:additional components ranging from about 1:99 to about 50:50. For example, the compositions according to the disclosure may contain a ratio of pre-mix: additional components ranging from about 2:98 to about 40:60, or from about 3:97 to about 35:65, such as about 2.5: 97.5, approximately 5:95, approximately 7.5:92.5, approximately 10:90, approximately 12.5:87.5, approximately 15:85, approximately 17.5:81.5, approximately 20:80, approximately 25:75, or approximately 30:70, including all ranges and subranges. In preferred embodiments, the premix:additional component ratio ranges from about 5:95 to about 15:85.

Hair treatment processes

The disclosure also relates to methods of treating curly hair subject to bleaching to improve or restore hair integrity, definitions and/or durability of curls; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and/or volume control and/or prevent or reduce hair damage, while lightening hair color or lightening hair. As used herein, the term "bleaching routine" refers to a procedure or sequence of actions including the application to the hair of a bleaching composition and, optionally, one or more compositions treatment other than bleaching composition for removing hair color (hair lightening or hair enhancement).

In various embodiments, the hair treatment methods according to the present disclosure generally include applying any of the compositions disclosed herein to hair, particularly curly or wavy hair in a bleaching routine. The degree of curly nature and/or curl type of the hair may vary and is not limited. For example, curls of hair treated with the compositions disclosed herein may be from slightly wavy to tight, and may have different textures and colors. Hair curls can be natural or unnatural, such as through a permanent styling process using chemicals that structurally change the texture of the hair. It is preferable that the compositions disclosed herein be applied to the hair before or after application to the hair of a bleaching composition, instead of applying the compositions with the bleaching composition, either in a mixture or applied in same time on the hair.

In some embodiments, the methods of the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to hair having curls, with the hair being dry, wet, damp or soaking, before or after treating the hair with a bleaching composition, possibly rinsed with water and/or washed with a shampoo. As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to impart a desired effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curl, length, volume and texture of the hair. Typically, about 0.1g to about 5g of product is applied per gram of hair, depending on the specific product formula, length, volume and hairstyle type.

The composition can be applied to the hair before or after shampooing and/or conditioning, or after rinsing the hair with water. In some embodiments, the composition can be applied to the hair without shampoo or with conditioning before or after.

After the composition is applied to the hair, the hair can be massaged or combed with the fingers or using a comb or similar tool so that the composition is evenly distributed throughout the hair. In some embodiments, the treatment composition is left on the hair for a desired period of at least 1 minute, such as about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes, or about 5 minutes.

In some embodiments, the method is a pretreatment method, wherein a treatment composition disclosed herein is applied to the hair and distributed evenly over the hair before the bleaching composition is applied to the hair and the hair is not bleached. Before applying the treatment composition, the hair can be rinsed with water or washed with shampoo. Once the treatment composition is left on the hair for a desired period of time as described above, the bleaching composition is then applied to the hair while the treatment composition remains on the hair. In some embodiments, the bleaching composition may be rinsed from the hair after being left on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour. After rinsing the bleaching composition, the hair can optionally be washed with shampoo, at least once. The hair can then be dried in the open air or using a hair dryer.

In some embodiments, the method is a post-treatment method, where the compositions disclosed herein are applied to the hair after the hair has been treated with a bleaching composition for a desired period such as about 20 minutes to about 1 hour. The composition disclosed herein can be applied to the hair after rinsing the hair bleaching composition and optionally subsequently washing the hair with shampoo. The treatment composition may be massaged or left on the hair for a period of at least 1 minute, such as from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes, or about 5 minutes. Then, the treatment composition can optionally be rinsed off. In some embodiments, hair to which the composition disclosed herein has been applied may be scrunched, twisted, or the like, which may help define curls. Then, the hair treated with the composition can be dried in the air or using a hair dryer, for example a hair dryer, where the composition applied to the hair can be rinsed before drying or left on the hair. hair as a leave-in product for the desired length of time, such as a few hours, overnight or a few days, or until the next time you wash or rinse your hair. After drying the treated hair, fingers can be passed through the hair to break the film formed on the hair by the component ingredients. Generally, in a post-treatment routine, when the composition disclosed herein is rinsed from the treated hair, the hair appears less stiff and non-crunchy.

The present disclosure further relates to methods of bleaching hair, or hair routines or processes, or a method for lightening the color of curly hair while providing benefits such as improving or restoring the integrity of the hair, definitions of loops and/or sustainability; prevention or reduction of curl elongation; improving frizz and/or volume control and/or preventing or reducing hair damage. The bleaching process or routine generally includes applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair and applying a bleaching composition to the hair, wherein the treatment composition may be applied to the hair before or after application of the bleaching composition.

In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a pretreatment-bleaching routine, which includes 1) applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair and maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for a period of time. desired length of at least 1 minute, such as about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes or about 5 minutes; 2) after leaving the treatment composition on the hair for the desired period of at least 1 minute, applying a bleaching composition to the hair while the treatment composition is left on the hair; 3) subsequently rinsing the treatment composition and the hair bleaching composition after leaving the bleaching composition and the treatment composition on the hair for a desired period of about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; 4) optionally shampooing the hair once or repeatedly after rinsing out the treatment composition and the bleaching composition; and 5) drying the hair in the open air or using a hairdryer and 6) optionally repeating steps (1) to (5).

In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a post-treatment routine, which includes 1) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; 2) subsequently rinsing the hair bleaching composition after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; 3) optionally, shampooing the hair after rinsing the bleaching composition; 4) rinsing the bleaching composition, or after shampooing the hair if shampoo is present, applying to the hair a treatment composition disclosed herein; 5) optionally, rinsing the hair treatment composition; 6) subsequent drying of the hair in the open air or drying of the hair with a hair dryer and 7) optionally, repeating steps (1) to (6). Before drying the hair in a final step, it can be styled, for example by sculpting it with the hands.

In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a mixed treatment routine, which includes applying to the hair a mixture of a treatment composition according to the present disclosure and a bleaching composition; rinsing the mixture from the hair after leaving the mixture on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; washing the hair with shampoo one or more times after rinsing the mixture; and air-drying hair or drying hair with a hair dryer.

In some embodiments, a composition disclosed herein is used alone on the hair, without the use of other hair treatment compositions. In certain other embodiments, after treating the curly hair according to a pre-treatment-bleach routine or a post-treatment bleach routine, another hair treatment or styling composition, such as styling gel, hairspray, etc. is applied. , can be applied to hair. As such, a composition disclosed herein may be applied to the hair and layered with another composition that is also applied to the hair.

In various embodiments, the methods of treating hair with the compositions according to the disclosure confer various benefits described above to the hair, without feeling greasy or flaking, compared to hair which has not been treated with a composition according to the disclosure . The term "long-lasting", as used herein, means curl definition, prevention of elongation, volume control, frizz control, effects on hair integrity and Other benefits imparted to the hair can last for a desired amount of time, like at least one or a few hours, a few days, even after rinsing or washing the hair.

III. Required

The disclosure also relates to kits comprising a first container containing a composition according to the present disclosure and/or a concentrated premix as disclosed herein, and one or more additional containers containing one or more hair care/treatment compositions other than the compositions disclosed herein, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair composition, an oxidizing composition, a hair mask or a styling composition.

The premix, or base mix, is a concentrated combination of a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; and (d) at least one polyol. The premix may be diluted to result in a composition according to the present disclosure at or near the time of use. The kit may optionally include instructions informing the user of mixing steps, ratios, timing, etc. appropriate. where a premix is included, or instructions for use of the compositions, including various processing routines disclosed herein. The kits in various embodiments may include at least one container suitable for containing and/or dispensing the compositions described herein for application to hair. In certain other embodiments, a kit may include a first container containing a composition according to the disclosure, and at least one additional container comprising a composition according to the disclosure or a composition not according to the disclosure, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, hair mask or styling composition.

Having described in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all examples in the present disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the disclosure, are provided as non-limiting examples and therefore should not be construed as limiting the various aspects as well. illustrated. It is understood that all definitions herein are provided for the purposes of this disclosure only.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “understand”, “have” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase “consisting essentially of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions.

In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The singular forms “un”, “une”, “the”, “the” and “at least one” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations. Likewise, the expression “a salt thereof” also refers to “salts thereof.” Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

As used herein, the expressions “and mixtures thereof”, “and a mixture thereof”, “and a combination thereof”, “or mixtures thereof”, “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof "" means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, among A + D, among A + C + D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components can be used individually or in any combination thereof.

For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified by the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or not, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation of that given value which would be reasonably inferred based on ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to experimental and/or measurement conditions for that given value. All ranges and quantities stated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any point disclosed as a bound. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%", such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2 % to 10%”, and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term “approximately”, whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "approximately". The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to +/- 10% from the stated number, such as +/- 9%, +/- 8%, +/- 7%, +/- 6 %, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, or +/- 1%. Likewise, all limits of the ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range from 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1.

“Active ingredient,” as used here in relation to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% of the activity of the ingredient or raw material.

All quantities stated here are relative to the amount of active material unless otherwise stated.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise noted.

As used here, the terms "apply a composition to keratin materials" and "apply a composition to the hair" and variations of these expressions are intended to designate the bringing into contact of keratin materials, in particular the hair and the skin, with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any way. It may also involve contact with keratin materials in an effective quantity.

Unless otherwise stated, all percentages herein are by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.

As used herein, the term "curly hair" refers to any hair with a curl. The curl can be natural or unnatural, that is, formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair. The degree of hair curl may vary and is not limited.

As used herein, hair with enhanced or enhanced curl definition may have curls that have a clean ring shape rather than frizz, curls that appear more individualized, curls that have a more closed appearance and/or or curls that have an enhanced visual appearance of hair color and/or balayage highlights.

A “leave-in” composition or product refers to a hair treatment composition that is not rinsed and/or removed with water or an acceptable solvent after application of the composition to the keratin fiber, such as than the hair; instead, the composition is left on the hair for a desired duration, such as 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or as long as necessary, until next wash or rinse of the keratin fibers.

The terms "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein mean that the specific material can be used in a manufacturing process in small quantities which do not significantly affect the fundamental and novel characteristics of the compositions according to disclosure. These terms can also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process, but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive.

It is to be understood that, with respect to the salts of carboxylic acids described herein, it is intended to encompass the use of a salt of a carboxylic acid as an ingredient added to a composition according to the disclosure, or to the salt of the carboxylic acid which forms when the carboxylic acid is used as an ingredient in a composition according to the disclosure.

As used herein, the terms "substantially free" or "substantially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure Likewise, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less. of 0.05% or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified materials. Any components positively set forth in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "exempt." , "substantially free" (or "substantially free") from one or more components which are positively set forth in this disclosure. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean. that the specific material is not added to the composition, but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

As used herein, the term "treat" (and grammatical variations thereof) refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratin materials, such as hair.

Unless expressly stated otherwise, it is not intended that any process presented herein should be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in any specific order. Accordingly, when a process claim does not expressly cite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is not in no way intended that a particular order be deduced from it.

Examples

The following examples are only intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 – Compositions Treatment compositions

Exemplary comparative compositions C1 and C2 and a composition according to the invention 1A were prepared according to the formulations presented in Table 1.

INCI US Inv. Ex. Ex. 1A C1 C2 XANTHAN GUM 1 1 GLYCERIN 1 1 CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 WATER QS QS QS

Composition C1 was prepared by mixing xanthan gum and glycerin in water and correcting the pH of the mixture to approximately 3.5-4 at 25C using a solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) at 0.1 M. Composition C2 was prepared by diluting a premix of citric acid and cyclodextrin in deionized water and correcting the pH of the dilution to approximately 3.5 -4 to 25C using 0.1 M NaOH solution. The premix of citric acid (CA) and cyclodextrin (CD) was prepared by mixing citric acid, cyclodextrin and deionized water (DI) in a molar ratio of CD: CA: DI at 1: 10: 50, corresponding to a weight ratio of CD: CA: DI at 29:48:23, and heating the mixture in a water bath at approximately 80°C until the CA and CD have been dissolved in the DI water and the mixture has formed a viscous liquid, leaving the mixture in the water bath for about 2 hours, then cooling the mixture to room temperature (RT). Composition 1A was prepared by diluting the citric acid and cyclodextrin premix described above in deionized water, then correcting the pH of the dilution to approximately 3.5-4 using a 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution; then, adding xanthan gum and glycerin to the solution and mixing everything using a vortex mixer (IKA® EUROSTAR Power Control from IKA Werke) for about an hour to ensure the obtaining a homogeneous gel.

Example of bleaching composition

An example of bleaching composition D was prepared according to the formulation indicated in Table 2.

INCI US Bleaching powder, lightening CYAMOPSIS TETRAGONOLOBA GUM (GUAR)/CYAMOPSIS TETRAGONOLOBA GUM 2.08 MAGNESIUM CARBONATE HYDROXIDE 7.44 DISODIUM EDTA 0.99 SODIUM SILICATE 17.36 POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 49.61 SODIUM METASILICATE 2.48 MAGNESIUM CARBONATE HYDROXIDE 1.98 SODIUM STEARATE 9.92 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 4.96 PANTHENOL 0.11 LAPIS LAZULI 0.08 SODIUM LAURYLSULFATE 0.99 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFIN OIL 1.98

Exemplary revealer 30 Flight

An example of 30V D developer composition shown in Table 3 was prepared. Developer D has a pH at 25C of approximately 2.2+/- 0.2.

INCI name Composition of 30 V developer D 2-TRIDECETH CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.85 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.2 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 GLYCERIN 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEEARETH-25 2.85 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 18 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 WATER QS

Example 2 – Evaluation methods

The hair properties in the following experiments were assessed visually and/or with one or more instrument assessments according to the following process or protocols.

Fiber integrity assessment

Fiber integrity assessment was carried out using a miniature tensile tester (MTT 688 from Dia-Stron Ltd) and a Fiber Dimensional Analysis System (FDAS) 770. 50 fibers per hair sample, e.g. treated hair strands in the examples, were tested in wet or dry conditions.

Each fiber cross section of the hair strand tested was measured using the FDAS 770 using a double-ended method. After measuring the fiber cross-sectional area, the tensile strength and elastic modulus of the fibers were measured using MTT in dry and wet states. For the dry measurement, the hair strand samples were allowed to equilibrate to 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at room temperature for approximately 24 hours and then subjected to a temperature test. traction using the MTT with 2 gm of force at a traction rate of approximately 40 mm/min. For measurement in the wet MTT, each hair strand sample was soaked in deionized (DI) water for approximately two (2) hours and then subjected to a tensile test using the MTT. The traction measurement is carried out after the hair fibers have been wetted, with 2 gm of force at a traction rate of approximately 40 mm/min. The measured results of hair breaking stress and elastic modulus were statistically analyzed using UVWin vision 4.2.5.0 software, with the statistical significance level set to p < 0.05.

The elastic modulus represents a measure of the spring-like structure (elasticity) of hair. The elastic modulus provides information about fiber deformation, and therefore, fibers with a higher elastic modulus are more resistant to deformation. Breaking stress represents the force/area required to break the hair fiber. Higher breaking stress represents stronger hair fiber. Overall, the higher the breaking stress and/or the modulus of elasticity, the better the integrity of the fiber.

C. Measurement by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measures temperatures and heat flow associated with thermal transition in a material. It is useful for studying the structural characteristics of hair fibers. Keratin undergoes detectable transformations at different temperatures. Changes in these processing temperatures can be used to estimate the impact a particular hair treatment may have on hair fibers. In the present case, DSC was used to measure the denaturation temperature (T _d ). The denaturation temperature (T _d ) was used as a representation of the thermal stability of hair fibers, which is influenced, at least in part, by the cross-linking density of the matrix (intermediate filament associated proteins, IFAP). Thermal stability (Td) and its relationship in determining the thermal stability of hair fibers is established in the literature. Generally, hair denaturation temperature is higher if hair strength/integrity is high and vice versa.

The denaturation temperatures of the hair strands in the following examples were measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC 2500 Discovery series of TA instruments). To prepare hair samples for DSC measurement, 7 to 8 grams of each tested hair strand prepared above was cut into fine-sized particles (<0.5 mm). Hair particles from each bleached and treated strand were placed in a large volume DSC chamber. Approximately 50 μL of deionized water (DI water) was added to the tray and the hair particles were soaked in the water. The tray chamber was then sealed using a crimping die. For each hair strand sample processed, four bins were prepared (i.e. n=4). The DSC tanks were allowed to equilibrate to room temperature overnight. The next day, i.e. approximately 24 hours after hair treatment, the hair samples were run on the DSC equipment starting at 40°C and ramping at 10°C/min up to 180°C.

The Td value was measured in degrees Celsius, which represents the cross-linking density of the hair matrix. Trios software was used to statistically analyze the denaturation temperature values measured by the DSC equipment. An increase in Td indicates an interaction between active hair and matrix proteins.

D. Fiber durability tests (cyclic fatigue tensile tests, ETFC)

Cyclic fatigue tests are typically used to simulate the repeated tensile stress that occurs during combing and brushing. Cyclic fatigue data and survival probability exhibit both internal fiber defects and external breakage of the cuticle layer. Cyclic fatigue testing provides a unique instrumental tool to demonstrate progressive levels of damaged hair fibers. Fibers with relatively large defects will likely fail at fewer cycles of applied stress than fibers with minor defects.

In the following examples, fiber durability testing (cycles to failure (CJR)) was carried out using a Dia-Stron Ltd 801 Cyclic Tensile Fatigue Testing Machine (METFC) . The hair sample size for each hair strand was approximately 50 fibers per sample. The fibers were 28 mm long. The experiment was carried out at approximately 23°C, with 45% relative humidity, and using constant stress over a specified area.

Assessing curl definition

RUMBA is a polarization imaging system that takes successive images of a hair sample illuminated by an infrared LED and under multiple polarization states, using a rotating polarizer. The images give a modulated intensity on each pixel. The modulation is caused by the birefringence of the hair fiber and contains the angular signature which can be extracted with the system software to construct an orientation image of the sample. Orientation data can be mapped onto a 2D image to visualize the entire sample. From this orientation data, a coefficient that relates to hair stiffness can be defined - the stiffer the hair fibers in the strand, the closer the orientation distribution will be to a single angle value . The standard deviation of such a distribution is therefore inversely proportional to the perception of stiffness. The same process is carried out for alignment, where the alignment of a strand of hair is defined as the hair fibers being "locally stiff". Thus, a stiffness coefficient is defined on a small scale of the mapping 2D of the orientation, which makes it possible to obtain a stiffness coefficient on each pixel of the image.

In the following examples, the curl definition of hair strands was analyzed using RUMBA (Orientation Measurement for Linearity and Alignment of Hair Fiber) from Bossa Nova Technologies, LLC and/or with photographic images. RUMBA analysis was performed by placing an individual hair strand under testing into the RUMBA system and acquiring RUMBA images for the hair strand. In some situations, hair strands may be exposed to a condition of approximately 80% RH at 27C for approximately 24 hours before being placed into the RUMBA system.

Example 3 – Hair Treatment Methods

The hair in the Examples was processed according to one general bleaching process (or general bleaching routine) and three bleaching processes were tested (or bleaching routines tested). The three bleaching routines are: the pretreatment - bleaching routine (R1, or pre-trt), the mixed treatment - bleaching routine (R2, or mix-trt), and the post-treatment bleaching routine (R3, or post -trt). The three bleaching routines tested are illustrated in more detail in the diagrams of the .

As we can see in , in the pretreatment-bleaching routine t), the hair is pretreated with a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition, such as composition 1A, C1 or C2, before applying to the hair a bleaching composition . In the mixed routine - treatment, the hair was treated with a mixture of a bleaching composition and a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition. In the post-treatment bleaching routine, the hair is post-treated with a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition after treating the hair with a bleaching composition.

The processes or protocols for these three bleaching routines tested in the following examples are detailed below. Commercially available DOP shampoo, Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxide Revealer 30 Vol cream have been used as examples and are not limiting. Each strand of hair used in the examples was approximately 2 gm.

1. General bleaching process protocol (routine)

Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxide 30 Vol Developer cream in a 1:2 ratio (bleaching powder:developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

Prewash a section of hair being tested using DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and let the hair air dry.

Apply approximately 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the strand of pre-washed, air-dried hair at a ratio of approximately 10 grams of the bleaching composition per gram of hair, and evenly distribute the bleach composition on the hair by combing using an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute per side and a total of approximately 2 minutes.

Suspend the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climate chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the section of hair with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the section twice with DOP shampoo.

After washing the section of hair, let it air dry overnight.

Optionally, after allowing the wick to air dry overnight, repeat steps 4 through 7 one or more times, each time starting with air drying overnight. For example, when hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 to 7 are repeated twice.

In a modified general bleaching routine, step 4) and step 5) are modified as follows: after application of the bleaching composition to the strand of hair pre-washed in step 4) above, the hair is wrapped in aluminum foil then the bleaching composition is distributed evenly over the hair by combing the hair using an application brush for approximately 1 minute on each side and a total of approximately 2 minutes. Then, in step 5), the strand of hair is placed in a climate chamber at 60% relative humidity at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

2. Pre-treatment bleaching process protocol (routine)

Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxide 30 Vol Developer cream in a 1:2 ratio (bleaching powder:developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

Prewash a section of hair being tested using DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and let the hair air dry.

Apply 0.4 g of a test treatment composition, for example, composition 1A according to the present disclosure, or comparative composition C1 or C2, to the strand of pre-washed and air-dried hair.

Massage each section of hair to which the test treatment composition has been applied for approximately 1 minute to evenly distribute the test treatment composition over the hair, and leave the treatment composition on the hair for approximately 4 minutes, with a total of approximately 5 minutes of treatment.

Apply approximately 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the section of hair while the test treatment composition is left on the hair (10 g of the bleaching mixture per gram of hair), and distribute Evenly apply the bleaching composition to the hair by combing the hair using an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute per side and a total of 2 minutes.

Suspend the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climate chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the section of hair with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the section twice with DOP shampoo.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair and let the hair air dry overnight.

Optionally, after allowing the wick to air dry overnight, repeat steps 4 through 9 one or more times, each time starting with air drying overnight. For example, when hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 to 9 are repeated twice.

In a modified bleaching pre-treatment routine, step 6) and step 7) are modified as follows: after application of the bleaching composition to the strand of hair in step 6) above, the hair are wrapped in aluminum foil then the bleaching composition is distributed evenly over the hair by combing the hair using an application brush for approximately 1 minute on each side and a total of approximately 2 minutes. Then, in step 7), the hair strand is placed in a climate chamber at 60% relative humidity at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

3.3 Mixed process protocol - Bleaching treatment (routine)

Prewash a strand of hair (20 g) tested using DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and let the hair air dry.

Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxide 30 Vol Developer cream in a 1:2 ratio (bleaching powder:developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

Separately add 0.4 g of test treatment compositions 1A, C1 and C2 into 20 g of bleaching composition obtained in step 3), then mix the mixture, then adjust the pH of the mixture to 9.5-10 using monoethanolamine to obtain a treatment and decolorization mixture.

Apply the homogenized treatment and bleach mixture to the section of pre-washed hair and distribute the treatment and bleach mixture evenly throughout the hair by combing with an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute on each side and a total of 2 minutes.

Place the section of hair treated with the treatment and bleaching mixture in a climate chamber with 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the section of hair with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the section twice with DOP shampoo.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair, then optionally scrub the hair five times (5x) to help sculpt the curls and add style. Then, let the section of hair air dry overnight.

Optionally, after air-drying the section of hair overnight, repeat steps 4-10 one or more times as needed, each time starting with air-drying overnight. For example, when hair strands are processed and bleached twice, steps 5)-11) are repeated twice.

3.4 Post-treatment bleaching process protocol (routine)

Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxide 30 Vol Developer cream in a 1:2 ratio (bleaching powder:developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

Prewash a strand of hair (2g) tested using DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

After washing the section of hair, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and let it air dry.

Apply approximately 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the strand of pre-washed, air-dried hair at a ratio of approximately 10 g of the bleaching composition per gram of hair, and evenly distribute the bleach composition on the hair by combing using an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute per side and a total of 2 minutes.

Place the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climatic chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30C for approximately 50 minutes.

After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the section of hair with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the section twice with DOP shampoo.

After washing the hair strands twice using a DOP shampoo, apply 0.4 g of a treatment composition, for example, composition 1A according to the present disclosure or comparative composition C1 or C2, on the section of hair, and massage the section of hair to which the treatment composition was applied for approximately 1 minute, then scrub the hair (5x) to help sculpt curls and add style. Then, let the section of hair air dry overnight.

You can also repeat steps 4) to 7) as desired, each time starting with air-dried hair overnight. For example, when hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 to 7 are repeated twice.

Example 4 – Performance evaluation in the pre-processing routine -discoloration

The performance of composition 1A was evaluated on strands of curly Caucasian hair subjected to bleaching in relation to the performance of comparative compositions C1 and C2. The hair samples were respectively treated with compositions A1, C1, and C2 and bleached twice according to routine pretreatment-bleaching, mixed treatment-bleaching, and post-treatment bleaching protocols. Untreated hair strands and hair strands that were treated twice with the bleaching composition alone according to the general bleaching routine protocol were used as controls. Each strand of hair weighed approximately 2.0 g.

After treating the hair strands according to different routines described above, the properties of the treated hair strands were evaluated visually and/or using instruments according to the evaluation methods described above. The evaluations and results are detailed below.

4.1 Visual appearance of hair strands treated via different bleaching routines

Photographs of the untreated strand of hair, a strand of hair that has been treated with the bleaching composition twice (2x) alone, and the respectively treated hair strands twice after the pre-treatment bleaching routine, the mixed routine treatment-bleaching and the post-treatment bleaching routine, where the hair strands were respectively treated with the compositions 1A, C1 and C2 before, during or after the treatment of the hair with the bleaching composition, were taken at the end of the complete process and are shown in .

As we can see in , hair bleached twice using the bleach composition alone had significantly less defined curls than untreated hair. In contrast, hair strands that were treated via the pre-treatment and post-treatment routines, where the hair was treated with composition 1A before or after treating the hair strands with the bleaching composition, had noticeably better curls, less frizz and better discipline, compared to hair bleached alone and hair treated with a mixed treatment-bleach routine, where composition 1A and bleach composition were applied together to the hair in a mixture .

As can be seen on the , the strands of hair respectively treated with the comparative compositions C1 and C2 via pre-treatment, mixed-treatment or post-treatment bleaching routines, where the compositions C1 and C2 were applied to the hair before, during or after the treatment of the hair with the bleaching composition, had visible curl elongation with less defined curls and/or the hair had more frizz compared to hair treated with composition 1A before or after bleaching the hair. Furthermore, in all mixed-treatment, pre-treatment and post-treatment routines, hair strands that were treated with composition 1A and C2 showed better color lightening than hair strands treated with composition C1.

The results demonstrate that the combination of a carboxylic acid such as citric acid, cyclodextrin, a polysaccharide such as xanthan gum, and a polyol such as glycerin in water, when used to treat hair before or after bleaching, provided synergistic benefits to bleached hair such as maintaining and/or preventing lengthening of curly hair, and/or maintaining and/or improving definition and hold of curly hair loops.

4.2 Integrity of hair treated via the pre-treatment-bleaching routine

The fiber integrity of hair strands treated twice according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, where composition 1A and compositions C1 and C2 were respectively applied to a separate strand of hair before application of the bleaching composition , was measured using a miniature tensile tester (MTT 688, from Dia-Stron Ltd) and statistically analyzed according to the process described above, in comparison with untreated hair and hair only bleached (bleached 2X).

The results of the breaking stress of the treated and bleached hair strands are illustrated in . As shown in the , after bleaching the hair twice alone, the breakage stress of the hair decreased significantly, indicating that the hair was damaged due to the chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. Pretreatment of hair using composition C2 did not significantly affect hair breakage stress, indicating that composition C2 did not significantly reduce hair damage. In contrast, the hair strands which were pretreated with composition 1A and composition C1 respectively, before application of the bleaching composition showed significantly improved breaking stress, compared to control hair bleached alone, indicating that the pretreatment using compositions A1 and C2, respectively, restored hair integrity and reduced hair damage due to chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. As we can see in , bleached hair that was pretreated with composition 1A had a higher breaking stress than that of bleached hair that was pretreated with composition C1. As such, composition 1A gave better results than composition C1.

The results demonstrate the benefits of restoring or improving fiber integrity and therefore reducing hair damage provided by the synergistic combination of components according to the present disclosure, as included in composition 1A.

4.3 Durability of hair fibers treated via the pre-treatment routine - bleaching

The fiber integrity of hair strands treated twice according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, where composition 1A and compositions C1 and C2 were respectively applied to a separate strand of hair before application of the bleaching composition , was measured using a cyclic fatigue test according to the process described above. The results of the cyclic fatigue test obtained are presented in .

As shown in the , the cycles required to break hair that was pretreated with composition 1A prior to application of the bleaching composition were significantly more than the cycles required to break hair bleached with the bleaching composition alone or hair pretreated with the compositions C1 and C2 before applying the bleaching composition. The results demonstrated that the synergistic combination of components included in composition 1A significantly improved the durability of hair fibers subjected to bleaching.

4.4 I integrity of hair fibers treated with composition 1A via different routines

The integrity of the fibers of the hair strands respectively treated twice according to the protocols of the pre-treatment-bleaching routine, the mixed treatment-bleaching routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine described above, where composition 1A has was applied to a separate strand of hair before, during or after the bleaching composition was applied to the strand of hair, was evaluated using the Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT 688, from Dia-Stron Ltd) being in a wet state (and statistically according to the process described above, compared to untreated hair and bleached hair only (bleached 2X).

The breaking stress results of hair strands treated with composition 1A in different bleaching routines compared to untreated and 2X bleached hair strands are shown in . As shown in the , after bleaching the hair twice using the bleaching composition alone, the breakage stress of the hair decreased significantly, indicating that the hair was damaged due to the chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. However, when the hair was pretreated with composition 1A before the bleaching composition was applied to the hair, the breakage stress of the hair was significantly improved, compared to the hair bleached alone and the hair treated with composition 1A. during or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair. Hair treated with the 1A pre-treatment routine had significantly higher breakage stress than the 2x bleach, Mixed-treatment, and post-treatment routines. The results showed that among the 3 different routines, pretreatment prevented damage.

4.5 Durability of hair fibers treated according to different routines

The fiber durability (cycles to breakage (CTB)) of the hair strands respectively treated twice according to the pre-treatment-bleaching routine, the mixed treatment-bleaching routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine described above, where the composition 1A was applied to a separate strand of hair before, during or after applying the bleaching composition to the strand of hair, was evaluated by cyclic fatigue testing according to the process described above. The results of the cyclic fatigue test obtained are presented in .

As shown in the , the cycles required to break the hair strands treated with composition 1A before, during or after application of the bleaching composition were significantly greater than the cycles required to break the hair treated with the bleaching composition alone. As such, treatment using Composition 1A in all pre-treatment, mix-treatment, and post-treatment bleaching routines improved the durability of bleached hair fibers. The results further show that hair treated via the pre-treatment and post-treatment routine had significantly higher breakage cycles than hair treated via the mixed-treatment routine.

4.6 Denaturation temperature of hair treated via different routines

The denaturation temperatures of hair strands treated with composition 1A in different bleaching routines, where composition 1A was applied to the hair before, during or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair, were evaluated. using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the process described above, in comparison with the untreated strand of hair and the strand of hair bleached twice with the bleaching composition alone. The results are illustrated in .

As shown in the , compared to untreated hair, hair treated with the bleaching composition only twice (bleached 2X) had a significantly lower denaturing temperature than untreated hair, indicating that the hair was damaged during treatment with the composition discoloration. However, hair treated via the bleach pre-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleach routine with composition 1A had an increased denaturation temperature compared to hair bleached 2X, and the increase was significant when the hair had been treated via post-treatment bleaching routine.

The results demonstrate that pre-treatment and post-treatment of hair using Composition 1A significantly improve the thermal integrity of hair fibers.

4.7 Defining processed loops using different routines

Curl definition of hair strands treated according to the pre-treatment, mix-treatment and post-treatment bleaching routines as described above, where composition 1A was used as the treatment composition and applied to the hair before, during or after application of the bleaching composition was evaluated using a RUMBA system according to the method described above.

The 2D images obtained with the RUMBA system for the treated hair strands were illustrated in . As we can see in , hair treated with 1A in all pre-treatment, mixed-treatment, and post-treatment routines had no curl elongation and had less frizz than hair only bleached. Additionally, hair strands treated and bleached via pre- and post-treatment bleach routines showed better curl definition, compared to hair bleached alone (bleached 2X) and hair treated via the mixed-treatment routine. The results demonstrated that composition 1A used in one of the pre-treatment or post-treatment bleaching routines disclosed herein prevented curl elongation and provided better definition and manageability of hair curls. curly hair.

4.8 Summary of study results

The performance of composition 1A in the pre-treatment bleaching routine, the mixed-bleaching-treatment routine, and the post-treatment bleaching routine, relative to the comparative compositions C1 and C2, is summarized below in Table 2.

Discoloration treatment Wet MTT
(Covalent bonds) dry MTT
(fiber quality) CFTT DSC Modulus of elasticity (EM) Breaking stress (BS) Modulus of elasticity (EM) Robustness Cycles to Break (CTB) Td Pre-trt-1A √ √ √ √ √ √ Pre-trt-C2 √ Pre-trt-C1 √ √ √ Post-trt-1A N / A N / A √ √ √ √ Post-trt-C2 N / A N / A √ Post-trt-C1 N / A N / A Mix-trt-1A √ Mix-trt-C2 Mix-trt-C1 √ √ √

In summary, composition 1A, when applied to the hair before or after application of the bleaching composition to the hair, provided overall improvements in fiber quality, covalent bonds, fiber durability, hair and hair strength, compared to the results with application of composition 1A to the hair in a mixture with the bleaching composition. Furthermore, the results demonstrate that the benefits were obtained by the synergistic combination of components included in composition 1A.

Example 5 – Performance of composition 1A on African-American hair with tight curls

The performance of composition 1A was tested and evaluated on strands of African-American hair having tight curls following the pretreatment-bleaching routine described above, compared to an untreated strand and a strand of hair treated with the composition. bleaching alone following the modified general bleaching routine protocol described above. The hair strands were bleached once and twice respectively. Each strand of hair used in the test weighed approximately 2.0 grams.

There illustrates the appearance of hair strands treated with the bleach composition alone once (1X bleached) and twice (2X bleached), and hair strands treated according to the pretreatment-bleach routine once (1A(pre)+ bleached 1X) and twice (1A(pre)+bleached 2X), with pretreatment of the hair with composition 1A before application of the bleaching composition, compared to the appearance of an untreated strand of hair.

As can be seen, hair strands that have been bleached twice show better color lightening than hair strands that have been bleached once. However, after the hair strand was treated with the bleaching composition alone twice, the hair strand showed noticeable elongation. In contrast, the hair strand that was treated according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, where the hair was treated with composition 1A prior to application of the bleaching composition, showed significantly reduced elongation with curl definition. maintained or improved. The color lightening effect was not affected by pretreatment with composition 1A.

Example 6 – Performance of composition 1A on different types of curly hair

The performance of composition 1A is compared on two different strands of hair, the strands of curly Caucasian hair having loose curls and the strands of African-American hair having tight curls. Naturally curly Caucasian hair generally has a lower cycles-to-breakage value and is less durable than natural African American hair.

The two types of hair strands were treated twice according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine described above, the hair having been treated with composition 1A before application of the bleaching composition being compared to the hair strands treated with the bleaching composition alone twice according to the general bleaching routine.

The treated hair strands were evaluated using a fiber durability test according to the evaluation method described above. The results obtained from fatigue cycles (cycles to failure (CTB)) are presented in .

As shown in the , after the treatment using the bleaching composition alone, the cycles required to break hair strands of both types were significantly reduced, indicating that both hair types were damaged due to the chemical treatment using the bleaching composition. However, when hair strands of both types were treated with composition 1A before being treated with the bleaching composition, the cycles required to break the hair significantly improved, indicating that the hair was more durable and less damaged. compared to hair that was only bleached.

The results demonstrate that composition 1A provided benefits in improving hair integrity and reducing hair damage regardless of hair curl level, at least when composition 1A was used in a bleaching routine. before treatment.

The above examples demonstrate that the synergistic combination of components according to the disclosure prevented and/or reduced curl elongation and restored and/or improved the integrity of hair subjected to bleaching. The examples further demonstrate that the synergistic combination generally performs best when used to treat hair before or after application to the hair of a bleaching composition.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be made to the compositions and methods according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. It is therefore intended that the disclosure covers these modifications and variations as well as their equivalents.

Claims (10)

Hair treatment process comprising:
(i) the application to the hair of a hair treatment composition comprising:
(a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;
(b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof;
(c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent;
(d) at least one polyol; And
(e) water;
wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7; And
(ii) optionally, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, preferably from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes;
(iii) applying a hair bleaching composition to the hair and
(iv) By rinsing the hair. Hair treatment process comprising:
(i) applying a hair bleaching composition to the hair;
(ii) rinsing the hair;
(iii) the application to the hair of a hair treatment composition comprising:
(a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;
(b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof;
(c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent;
(d) at least one polyol; And
(e) water;
wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7 and
(iv) possibly rinsing the hair. Hair treatment process comprising:
(i) applying to the hair a hair bleaching composition and a hair treatment composition, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises:
(a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;
(b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof;
(c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent;
(d) at least one polyol; And
(e) water;
wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7 and
(ii) By rinsing the hair. Hair treatment process comprising:
(iii) mixing a hair treatment composition with a hair bleaching composition to form a mixture, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises:
(a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;
(b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof;
(c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent;
(d) at least one polyol; And
(e) water;
wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7; And
(iv) applying the mixture to the hair and
(v) rinsing the hair. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, wherein the hair treatment composition has a molar ratio of (a) carboxylic acid and its salts to (b) cyclodextrins and their derivatives ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25: 3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 12:1, and ideally from about 6:1 to about 10:1. The method according to one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the treatment composition has a lower pH of about 2 to about 6, preferably about 3 to about 5, more preferably about 3 to about 4.5 , ideally from around 3 to around 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which, in the hair treatment composition:
(a) the at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, their salts or their mixtures, preferably citric acid, their salts or their mixtures;
(b) the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is chosen from α-cyclodextrin, ß-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of ß-cyclodextrin , methyl derivatives of γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of ß-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, preferably ß-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of ß -cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of β-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, preferably β-cyclodextrin;
(c) the at least one polysaccharide thickening agent is chosen from inulins, celluloses, starches, gums, their derivatives or their mixtures, preferably from gums, preferably from guar gums, xanthan gums , pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gums arabic, xyloses, tragacanth gums, their derivatives or their mixtures, preferably from xanthan gum; And
(d) the at least one polyol is chosen from C ₂ - C ₁₆ polyols, preferably from glycols, more preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, or mixtures thereof, most preferably glycerin. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which, in the hair treatment composition:
(a) the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5%;
(b) the total amount of cyclodextrins and their derivatives ranges from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% %, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, ideally from about 1% to about 5% by weight;
(c) the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents is from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3 % and or
(d) the total amount of polyols is at least 0.5%, preferably about 1% to about 10%;
wherein all quantities are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the hair treatment composition comprises:
(a) from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and ideally from about 1% to about 5% of carboxylic acids chosen from citric acid, its salts or their mixture;
(b) from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, even more preferably from about 0 .1% to about 10%, ideally from about 1% to about 5% of β-cyclodextrin, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof;
(c) from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% polysaccharide thickening agents;
(d) at least about 0.5%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% polyols; And
(e) at least about 80% water;
wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH ranging from about 3 to about 5; And
wherein all quantities are by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. A method according to claim 9, wherein the hair treatment composition has a molar ratio of (a) carboxylic acid and its salts to (b) β-cyclodextrin and derivatives thereof ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25: 3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 12:1 and ideally from about 6:1 to about 10:1.