FR3141619A1 - COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS The disclosure relates to compositions comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) optionally water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. The compositions can be used to give hair long-lasting curl definition and/or frizz control and/or volume, even in high humidity. The disclosure also relates to methods of making and using the compositions, as well as kits containing the compositions. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating or styling keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, as well as methods of making and using the compositions, and kits comprising the compositions.

CONTEXT

Consumers with curly or wavy hair are often dissatisfied with the appearance of their hair. For example, curly hair may appear frizzy, with poor curl definition. Although some products are designed to reduce frizz and/or improve curl definition, they have disadvantages such as adding a greasy and/or crunchy feel to the hair, weighing down the hair, a problem to achieve a smoother feel/touch or ineffectiveness, especially in humid climates.

More consumers are also looking for hair products that look and feel natural, have a lightweight feel, while providing hair with longer-lasting styling or shaping benefits. Additionally, consumers are looking for products that offer multiple benefits, for example, combining frizz reduction and style maintenance with softening, extension or lengthening effects while still providing good curl definition. Additionally, consumers want hair products that can protect hair from external factors such as high humidity, which causes hair to become very frizzy, unmanageable and lose its shape and style, or such as mechanical stress or physical or other external stresses on the hair.

There is therefore a desire for new and improved products that can enhance the visual appearance of the curly nature of the hair, for example by improving curl definition, preventing unwanted hair lengthening and/or providing frizz control. and/or volume to the hair.

The present disclosure addresses this need and aims to develop new compositions and methods for treating hair using compositions that will provide both care and styling/shaping benefits that are long-lasting or long-lasting and can be maintained overnight or when the hair is subject to changes in shape or style or configuration, and/or disturbances of the hairline and/or movement of the hair fibers as a result of sleep or lying down and resting the head on a bed or other surface or the back part of a seat and/or following the wearing of a headdress or hat. These styling and shaping benefits include, for example, curl definition, frizz control, discipline, shape control/maintenance, volume control, integrity, durability, smoothness, softness, shine, natural feel, hydration and feeling of lightness.

The compositions and methods according to the present disclosure are able to provide styling benefits that curly hair consumers desire on a daily basis, such as curl definition, hydration, conditioning, hold, frizz control, curl/shape retention, curl support, curl hydration, and/or not leaving curls greasy or stiff.

SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, and in particular, relates to compositions providing overall benefits to curly or wavy hair, such as maintaining and/or improving the definition and hold of curls, prevention of unwanted lengthening, control of shape and discipline, control of frizz and/or volume, improvement of hair integrity and/or prevention and hair damage hair styling. The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions to provide the overall benefits described above to hair, particularly curly or wavy hair.

It is now surprising that a combination of components presented here can provide hair, especially curly or wavy hair, with the overall benefits described above. These benefits have been shown to last, even in high humidity conditions, and even after washing hair treated with the combination. In addition, the compositions are easy to apply and environmentally friendly thanks to the use of natural materials.

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. In other embodiments, the molar ratio of (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof to (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof it can range from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, or from about 6:1 at about 10:1, preferably about 1:1, about 2:1, about 3:1, about 4:1, about 5:1, about 6:1, about 7:1, about 8:1, about 9 :1, approximately 10:1, approximately 11:1, approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, approximately 17:1, approximately 18:1, approximately 19 :1, approximately 20:1, approximately 3:2, approximately 5:2, approximately 7:2, approximately 9:2, approximately 11:2, approximately 13:2, approximately 15:2, approximately 17:2, approximately 19 :2, approximately 1:3, approximately 2:3, approximately 4:3, approximately 5:1, approximately 7:3, approximately 8:3, approximately 10:3, approximately 11:3, approximately 13:3, approximately 14 :3, approximately 16:3, approximately 17:3, approximately 19:3, or approximately 20:3. In certain embodiments, the weight ratio of (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof to (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof included in the compositions ranges from approximately 1: 3 to about 6:1, for example about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1, about 5:1, about 5.5:1, or about 6:1, y including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In various embodiments, the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 6, such as about 3 to about 5, about 3.5 to about 5, about 3 to about 4.5, d 'about 3.5 to about 4.5, or about 3 to about 4. The composition may be used as a leave-on composition or as a rinse-off composition.

In various embodiments, the (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof may be chosen from mono-carboxylic acids, di-carboxylic acids, tri-carboxylic acids, their salts, or their mixtures, such as, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, their salts, or their mixtures. In certain other embodiments, the suitable carboxylic acid(s) or salts thereof may have a molecular weight less than about 900 g/mol, preferably less than about 700 g/mol, less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 300 g/mol, or less than about 200 g/mol. In various embodiments, the total amount of (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15 %, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 10%, or d 'about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof can be chosen from the compounds of formula:

in which R is chosen from H, CH ₃ , or a hydroxypropyl group, and n ranges from 6 to 8. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof can be chosen from α-cyclodextrin, ß-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-ß-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin or mixtures thereof. The (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof may, in various embodiments, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, such as, for example, about 0 .1% to approximately 18%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 1% to approximately about 13%, from about 1% to about 7%, or from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent may be chosen from gums, preferably gum arabic, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, gum tara, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanhane gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotia gum and gellan gum etc. The total amount of polysaccharide thickening agent(s), in various embodiments, may range from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, plus preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the (d) at least one polyol may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, or combinations thereof. The total amount of polyol(s), in various embodiments, may be about 0.5%, preferably about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the water is present in an amount ranging from about 70% to about 98%, about 75% to about 98%, about 80% to 98%, about 85% to 98%, from approximately 90% to approximately 98%, from approximately 95% to approximately 98%, from approximately 70% to approximately 95%, from approximately 75% to approximately 95%, from approximately 80% to 95 %, from approximately 85% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In other embodiments, the present disclosure relates to a composition for treating curly hair, the composition comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of carboxylic acids selected from citric acid or its salts; (b) from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20% by weight of cyclodextrins chosen from beta-cyclodextrin or its derivatives; (c) from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of polysaccharide gum(s); (d) at least 0.5% by weight of polyol(s); and (e) at least 80% by weight of water; in which the composition has a pH less than 7.

The disclosure further relates to methods of preparing and using the compositions disclosed herein. Methods of using the compositions include applying the compositions as disclosed to the hair, and optionally rinsing the compositions from the hair. In some embodiments, the methods may include shampooing and rinsing the hair before applying the composition to the hair; and/or conditioning and rinsing the hair after applying the composition to the hair. Hair treated with the compositions may be air dried or dried, where the composition applied to the hair may be left on the hair or rinsed before drying. In some embodiments, the methods further include styling the hair before it is dried, either when the composition is left on the hair or rinsed out. The methods may provide one or more benefits such as maintaining and/or improving the definition and hold of curls, controlling volume and/or frizz, improving durability, improving integrity of the hair, which may in various embodiments last for one or more hours, overnight or days, even in conditions of high humidity and after the hair has been treated with the compositions applied to the washed hair.

The disclosure also relates to methods of treating hair comprising applying to hair a composition disclosed herein; after leaving the composition on the hair for a desired period, such as 1 minute to about 1 hour, heating the hair at a temperature of between 50°C and about 225°C for a desired period, such as about 1 minute to about 5 minutes; and optionally, rinsing the composition from the hair before or after heating the hair. After the composition is applied to the hair, in various embodiments, the hair may be optionally styled, such as by scrunching with the hands before and/or while drying the hair. In various embodiments, the hair may be heated by a heating instrument or appliance such as a hooded hair dryer, vaporizer, blow dryer, or straightening iron. In other embodiments, the methods may include shampooing and rinsing the hair before applying the composition to the hair, and/or conditioning and rinsing the hair after heating the hair. In other embodiments, the methods may include applying a conditioner to the hair after applying the composition to the hair and before heating the hair, wherein the conditioner and composition remain on the hair when the hair is heated. hair is heated; and optionally, rinsing the hair before or after heating the hair. In some embodiments, the methods may also include styling the hair after the composition is applied to it and before the hair is dried. In some embodiments, the hair may be scrunched to shape the hairstyle after the hair has been heated and further rinsed. Hair styling is usually done on wet or damp hair.

The disclosure also relates to kits comprising a first container containing a composition according to the present disclosure and/or a concentrated premix disclosed herein, and one or more additional containers containing one or more hair care/treatment compositions other than the compositions disclosed herein. , such as, for example, a shampoo, conditioner, hair mask or styling composition. The pre-phase mixture, or base mixture, is a concentrated combination of a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; and (d) at least one polyol. The pre-phase mixture may be diluted to result in a composition according to the present disclosure near or at the time of use.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and form part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description made above and the description provided herein, serve to explain the features of the disclosure.

There shows images of the strands of hair treated with composition 1A according to an exemplary embodiment of the disclosure and comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3, and the control strand of hair treated with water, after 24 hours of exposure to a condition of 80% relative humidity (80% RH) at 27C.

There is a graph showing the frizz (frizz) levels of hair strands treated with composition 1A according to one embodiment of the disclosure and comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3, and the control hair strand treated with water , after 24 hours of exposure to a relative humidity condition of 80% (80% RH) at 27C.

There is a set of RUMBA 2D images of strands of hair treated with composition 1A according to one embodiment of the disclosure and comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3, and control strands of hair treated with water, after 24 hours of exposure to a relative humidity condition of 80% (80% RH) at 27C.

There is a graph showing the denaturation temperatures of hair strands treated with composition 1A according to one embodiment of the disclosure and comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3, and of the control hair strand treated with water.

There is a graph showing the cycles to breakage (CJR) of the hair strands treated with composition 1A according to one embodiment of the disclosure and comparative compositions C1, C2 and C3 and the control hair strand treated with composition 1A. 'water.

There is a graph showing the performance of composition 1A according to one embodiment of the disclosure and of compositions C1 and C2, and a control composition (water) on the repair of hair split ends evaluated on strands of curly hair, in comparison to a lock of untreated control curly hair.

There is a set of photographs of two heads of hair treated with composition 1A (left side) in comparison to hair treated with deionized water (right side).

There is a graph illustrating the denaturation temperatures of unbleached (natural) curly hair strands and pre-bleached curly hair strands when the hair was untreated (control) or treated with Composition 1A once (1x), three times (3x) and five times (5x).

It is understood that the preceding and following descriptions are given by way of example and explanation only and are not intended to restrict any claimed subject matter.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The present disclosure relates to compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as treating curly or wavy hair to maintain and/or improve curl definition and hold, prevent unwanted elongation, provide shape and texture control. discipline, provide frizz control and volume, improve hair integrity and/or prevent and reduce hair damage. The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the compositions disclosed herein to provide overall benefits to hair, particularly curly or wavy hair.

The information relates to compositions comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (c) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. The compositions may provide curl definition, frizz control and/or long-lasting hair volume and/or integrity, as well as additional sensory properties to the hair, even in case of high humidity. The disclosure also relates to methods of making and using the compositions on hair in styling routines to maintain curl definition, reduce frizz, improve durability, improve hair integrity, and enhance other sensory properties. hair, especially curly and wavy hair.

Compositions

In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (c) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7.

Carboxylic acids or their salts

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof. As used herein, the term "carboxylic acid" includes salts of carboxylic acids, whether or not expressly stated. Carboxylic acids that may be used include, in various embodiments, mono-carboxylic acids (one carboxylic group) or poly-carboxylic acids (two or more carboxylic groups). Preferably, the carboxylic acids are non-polymeric carboxylic acids. The carboxylic acids may be chosen, in certain embodiments, from those having a molecular weight less than about 900 g/mol, such as less than about 700 g/mol, less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 300 g /mol, or less than about 200 g/mol.

In certain embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid can be chosen from mono-carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, or a salt thereof.

In additional embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from di-carboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene di-carboxylic acid, or their salts.

In yet other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from tri-carboxylic acids such as citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, 1,2-propane acid. ,3-tri-carboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tri-carboxylic acid, or their salts.

In still other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from poly-carboxylic acids which have more than three carboxylic groups, such as phytic acid.

In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of two or more carboxylic acids or salts thereof. For example, the compositions may include a mixture of two or more mono-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, or may include a mixture of two or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, such as two or more acids di-carboxylic acids, two or more tri-carboxylic acids, or a mixture of one or more di-carboxylic acids and one or more tri-carboxylic acids. Mixtures of one or more mono-carboxylic acids or their salts with one or more poly-carboxylic acids or their salts are also envisaged. In other embodiments, the composition comprises a single carboxylic acid or salt thereof.

In certain embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid , their salts, or a mixture of two or more of these elements.

In various embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of carboxylic acids and/or salt thereof ranging from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, such as about 0.1% to about 18%. , about 0.5% to about 15%, or about 1% to about 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of non-limiting example, the compositions may comprise a total quantity of carboxylic acids and/or their salts ranging from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, by weight, for example, approximately 0.5 % to approximately 12%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 0.5% to approximately about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 5 %, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1 % to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1 % to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2 % to approximately 10%, approximately 2% to approximately 9%, approximately 2% to approximately 8%, approximately 2% to approximately 7%, approximately 2% to approximately 6%, or approximately 2% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of carboxylic acids and/or salt thereof ranging from about 0.5% to about 13%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10 %, and more preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the carboxylic acid at least comprises or consists of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid , salts thereof or a mixture thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as 0.3% to about 9%, or about 0. 5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises citric acid in an amount ranging from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, such as approximately 1% to approximately 4%, approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, about 2% to about 3.5%, about 2% to about 3%, or about 2.25% to about 2.75%, or is about 1%, about 1.5% , approximately 2%, approximately 2.5%, approximately 3%, or approximately 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cyclodextrins or their derivatives

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly stated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.

The cyclodextrins which can be used include those of formula:

in which :

R is chosen from H, CH ₃ or a hydroxypropyl group, and

n goes from 6 to 8.

For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin may be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). As an example, one can use α-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, ß-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA.

In other embodiments where R = CH ₃ , the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-ß-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl -γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-ß-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 can be chosen.

In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and/or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and/or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes β-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is only β-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in the composition.

In various embodiments, the total amount of cyclodextrins and/or derivatives thereof in a composition according to the present disclosure ranges from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, including all ranges and subranges thereof. -this, such as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 18%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 18%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7% , from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, d 'about 1% to about 18%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, 'about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, approximately 1% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the compositions include a total amount of cyclodextrins ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, from about 0.5% to about 15%. , from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 13%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, and more preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise β-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as 0.2% to about 8%, about 0 .3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In various embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) and the cyclodextrin(s) present in the compositions according to the present disclosure may have a carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) molar ratio ranging from approximately 0.5: 1 to about 25:3, for example about 4:1 to about 15:1, about 5:1 to about 12:1, or about 6:1 to about 10:1, such as, for example, about 1:1 , approximately 2:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 6:1, approximately 7:1, approximately 8:1, approximately 9:1, approximately 10:1, approximately 11:1 , approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, approximately 17:1, approximately 18:1, approximately 19:1, approximately 20:1, approximately 3:2 , approx. 5:2, approx. 7:2, approx. 9:2, approx. 11:2, approx. 13:2, approx. 15:2, approx. 17:2, approx. 19:2, approx. 1:3, approx. 2:3 , approx. 4:3, approx. 5:1, approx. 7:3, approx. 8:3, approx. 10:3, approx. 11:3, approx. 13:3, approx. 14:3, approx. 16:3, approx. 17:3 , approximately 19:3 or approximately 20:3, including all ranges and subranges thereof.

In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may have a weight ratio of (a) the at least one carboxylic acid or its salt to (b) the at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative ranging from approximately 1:3 to about 6:1, for example from about 1:3 to about 3:1, from about 1:2.5 to about 2.5:1, from about 1:2 to about 2:1, from about 1:1 to approximately 1.75:1, approximately 1.5:3 to approximately 3:1.5, approximately 1.5:2.5 to approximately 2.5:1.5, or about 1.5:2 to about 2:1.5, or can be about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1 .5:1, approximately 2:1, approximately 2.5:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 3.5:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 4. 5:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 5.5 :1, approximately 6:1, approximately 1.5:3, approximately 1.5:2.5, approximately 1.5:2, approximately 2:1.1, approximately 2.5:1.5, approximately 3: 1.5, approximately 3.5:1.5, approximately 4:1.5, approximately 4.5:1.5, approximately 5:1.5, approximately 5.5:1.5 or approximately 6:1, 5.

Polysaccharide thickening agents

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polysaccharide as thickening agent. The term “thickening agent(s)” as used herein refers to “thickener(s)” or “viscosity modifying agent(s)”. The at least one polysaccharide agent may be chosen from anionic polysaccharide thickening agents, non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agents or mixtures thereof. Polysaccharide thickening agents which may be used include, by way of example only, inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, xyloses, tragacanth gums or derivatives of the above. In other embodiments, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin or heparin. In some embodiments, mixtures of two or more of these may also be chosen.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotinia gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives can also be used, such as, for example, deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropylated guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.

In some embodiments, suitable polysaccharide thickening agents which may be used are selected from gums, such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanhan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotia gum, gellan gum, etc.

Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose), or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose). Celluloses modified with groups comprising one or more nonionic fatty chains which can be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably nonionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL ^TM Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL ^® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER ^® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Hydroxypropyl guar gums are other thickening agents particularly suitable for use in the compositions described herein.

Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, anhydride cross-linked starch. octenyl succinic, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.

In certain embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are chosen from carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, acetate starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xylose gum, cellobiose, dextrin , maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, inulin, levan or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are chosen from sclerotinia gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, cyclodextrin or mixtures thereof.

In various exemplary embodiments, the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents may vary, or combinations thereof, typically from about 0.05% to about 5%, including all intermediate subranges. such as from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3 %, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In some embodiments, the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents may vary from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, or about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or maybe about 1%, about 1.5%, about 2%, about 2.5%, approximately 3% or approximately 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For example, the compositions may, in exemplary embodiments, include a total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, or from about 0.75% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, where the polysaccharide thickening agent comprises at least a polysaccharide thickening agent may be chosen from gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum , dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotia gum, gellan gum, etc. In various embodiments, the composition disclosed herein comprises xanthan gum in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as from about 0.25% to about 4%, about 0. 5% to about 3%, or about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or maybe about 1%, about 1.5%, about 2%, about 2, 5%, approximately 3% or approximately 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyols

The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polyol. By way of example only, the at least one polyol may be chosen from C ₂ -C ₁₆ polyols, such as C ₂ -C ₁₂ or C ₂ -C ₈ polyols. The at least one polyol can be optionally chosen from diols and triols. The at least one polyol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or not. Any stereoisomer of the polyols can also be used. The polyol(s) in the combination disclosed herein may act as conditioning or straightening agents and improve the overall sensory properties of the hair and enhance curl definition.

In various exemplary embodiments, the polyols can be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, glycerin, ethylhexyglycerin, or mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from, for example, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2- butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl -1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol,2,4-dimethyl -2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 4-methylmethyl-1,2-pentanediol.

In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least two polyols, for example at least two polyols chosen from diols and triols. By way of non-limiting example, a composition according to the disclosure may comprise a combination of at least one glycerin compound and at least one additional glycol compound.

In various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one polyol may be approximately 1% or more, approximately 2% or more, approximately 3% or more, approximately 4% or more, about 5% or more, about 6% or more, or about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol is present in the composition in a total amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, including all intermediate ranges, such as from about 0.1% to about 9%. , from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, d 'approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0, 5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 0 .5% to approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of polyols ranges from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or maybe about 1%, about 1.5%, about 2%, about 2.5%, about 3% , or approximately 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the at least one polyol is chosen from diols and triols, and is present in an amount of approximately 1%, approximately 1.5%, approximately 2%. , about 3%, about 4% or about 5% or more by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and includes glycerin.

Water

The compositions according to the disclosure include water. In various embodiments, the amount of water in a composition disclosed herein may range from about 70% to about 98%, including all intermediate subranges, such as from about 75% to about 98%, d 'approximately 80% to approximately 98%, from approximately 85% to approximately 98%, from approximately 90% to approximately 98%, from approximately 95% to approximately 98%, from approximately 70% to approximately 95%, approximately 75% to approximately 95%, approximately 80% to 95%, approximately 85% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional components

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise one or more additional components suitable for use in such compositions. Non-limiting examples of these additional components are provided below.

pH correctors

The compositions disclosed herein may include one or more pH correctors to increase or decrease the overall pH of the composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to reduce the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of acids suitable for lowering the pH of compositions may include one or more acids. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids or bases which are suitable for adjusting the pH of the compositions are easily known to those skilled in the art. For example, in one embodiment, the pH corrector is a sodium hydroxide solution such as 0.1 M NaOH.

The amount of the pH corrector in the compositions may be based on the desired pH of the final composition and/or product to improve curl definition and curl regularity and/or curl elongation. For example, the total amount of the pH corrector can range from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Conservatives

One or more preservatives may be included in the compositions described here for treating hair. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin-containing compounds (e.g., glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben , etc.), sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate and/or grapefruit seed extract, or a mixture thereof this. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorophenisin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methyl isothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (miscellaneous), lactic acid, vitamin E (tocopherol) or mixtures thereof. In some cases, hair treatment compositions may include one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, or mixtures thereof. this.

The total amount of one or more preservatives, when present, may vary. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more preservatives may range from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 2% , from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Auxiliary components

The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise any auxiliary components suitable for use in such compositions. These components may include, but are not limited to, dyes/pigments to add color to the composition, moisturizing agents, fatty substances, thickeners other than those described above, fillers, structuring agents, gloss, antioxidants or penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, such as apricot seed powder, opacifiers, sunscreen agents, vitamins and antistatic agents.

Optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15%, for example from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.01% at approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the compositions are acidic and may have a pH less than 7. For example, the pH of the composition may range from about 1.5 to about 6.8, from about 2 to about 6.5 , from about 2.5 to about 6, from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5. 5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4, about 3.5 to about 6.5, about 3.5 to about 6, about 3.5 to about 5.5, about 3.5 to about 5, d 'about 3.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3.5 to about 4, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 6.5. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from approximately 3 to approximately 4.

The compositions according to the disclosure may be rinse-off compositions or leave-on compositions, and are typically in the form of a gel, a liquid, a cream or a lotion, without limitation. In some embodiments, the compositions are a non-aerosol type product, which may be dispensed from a bottle, tube, or spray bottle.

In some embodiments, the compositions may be a hair treatment product, a styling product, or a styling and management product that may be used to style hair while providing treatment and/or conditioning, as well as manageability benefits for the hair.

Pre-phase mixing

The disclosure also relates to pre-phase mixtures, or base mixtures, of concentrated combinations of a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; and (d) at least one polyol. For example, pre-phase mixtures can be produced by combining and mixing carboxylic acid(s), cyclodextrin(s), polysaccharide thickening agent(s), or polyol(s) as required and particular quantities thereof with specific mole and/or ratios as described herein. The pre-phase mixture may then be diluted in additional water or added to a base composition having additional components indicated herein to produce the compositions according to the present disclosure before the composition is applied to the hair.

In various embodiments, in the pre-phase mixture, the molar ratio of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) can range from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, or from about 6:1 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:1, from about 2:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 6:1, approximately 7:1, approximately 8:1, approximately 9:1, approximately 10:1, approximately 11:1, approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, approximately 17 :1, approximately 18:1, approximately 19:1, approximately 20:1, approximately 3:2, approximately 5:2, approximately 7:2, approximately 9: 2, approximately 11:2, approximately 13:2, approximately 15:2, , approximately 17:2, approximately 19:2, approximately 1:3, approximately 2: 3, approximately 4:3, approximately 5:1, approximately 7:3, approximately 8:3, approximately 10:3, approximately 11:3, approximately 13:3 , approximately 14:3, approximately 16:3, approximately 17:3, approximately 19:3, approximately 20:3.

Likewise, the weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) in the compositions disclosed herein can, in various embodiments, range from about 1:3 to about 6:1, for example about 1: 3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, approximately 3.5:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 4.5:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 5.5:1, or approximately 6:1, including all ranges and subranges thereof .

II. Processes Processes for preparing compositions

The disclosure also relates to methods of preparing the compositions described herein. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose specific molar or weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s) and/or salt(s), cyclodextrin(s) and/or derivative(s). ) of these, and/or solvent(s) (for example deionized water (DI)). For example, by choosing specific molar or weight ratios of these components, it is possible to customize the compositions so that they can impart greater or lesser degrees of curl definition and/or frizz control.

Therefore, it may be useful to prepare a premix, or base mixture, of concentrated combinations of cyclodextrin carboxylic acid(s) and/or salt(s) thereof. (s) and/or derivative(s) thereof, and solvent(s) with particular molar ratios or weight ratios. In one embodiment, the premix comprises at least one acid. carboxylic acid chosen from citric acid, and at least one cyclodextrin chosen from ß-cyclodextrin.

In various embodiments, in the premix, the molar ratio of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) may vary from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably d 'about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, or from about 6:1 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:1, about 2:1, approximately 3:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 6:1, approximately 7:1, approximately 8:1, approximately 9:1, d 'approximately 10:1, approximately 10:1, approximately 12:1, approximately 13:1, approximately 14:1, approximately 15:1, approximately 16:1, about 17:1, about 18:1, about 19:1, about 20:1, about 3:2, about 5:2, about 7:2, about 9:2, about 11:2, about 13:2, about 15:2, about 17:2, about 19:2, about 1:3, about 2:3, about 4:3, about 5:1, about 7:3, about 8:3, about 10:3, approximately 11:3, approximately 13:3, approximately 14:3, approximately 16:3, approximately 17:3, approximately 19:3, or approximately 20:3. Correspondingly, the weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s): cyclodextrin(s) in the compositions disclosed here can range from approximately 1:3 to approximately 6:1, for example approximately 1:3, approximately 1:2, 5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, approximately 4:1, approximately 4.5:1, approximately 5:1, approximately 5.5:1, or approximately 6:1, including all ranges and subranges.

Once the particular carboxylic acid(s), cyclodextrins, and solvent(s), and the desired ratio thereof, are chosen, the premix may be prepared by any conventional method. . As an illustrative example only, the premix can be prepared by simply mixing the components at the chosen ratio, preferably with heating. For example, the mixture can be mixed at a temperature between approximately 40°C and 100°C, for example between approximately 50°C and 95°C. As an example, the premix may be prepared by firstly adding a carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof and cyclodextrin and/or a salt thereof to DI water; secondly by heating the mixture in a water bath at approximately 80C until the contents and mixture dissolve into a viscous liquid; third, leaving the mixture at 80C for about 2 hours to allow the ingredients to complete the reaction; finally, cooling the mixture to room temperature.

Once the pre-mix is prepared, it can then be diluted with additional solvent and other additives, including polysaccharide(s) and polyol(s), for example xanthan gum and glycerin, until the desired concentration of the final composition according to the disclosure. The additional solvent may be the same as the solvent in the premix, may be different from the solvent in the premix, or may be a combination of the solvent in the premix with one or more solvents other than that in the premix.

In one embodiment, a composition according to the present disclosure comprises citric acid, beta-cyclodextrin, xanthan gum and glycerin, can be prepared by diluting a pre-mixture of citric acid and beta-cyclodextrin to a desired concentration with one or more additional solvents, e.g., DI water, correcting the pH of the dilution with a pH corrector, e.g., 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution, adding subsequently diluting the desired amounts of xanthan gum and glycerin to obtain a mixture, and mixing further using a mixer or vortex mixer (or vortex mixer) to arrive at the compositions disclosed here.

In various embodiments, the compositions disclosed may contain a ratio of premix:additional components ranging from about 1:99 to about 50:50. For example, the compositions according to the disclosure may contain a ratio of pre-mix: additional components ranging from about 2:98 to about 40:60, or from about 3:97 to about 35:65, such as about 2.5: 97.5, approximately 5:95, approximately 7.5:92.5, approximately 10:90, approximately 12.5:87.5, approximately 15:85, approximately 17.5:81.5, approximately 20:80, approximately 25:75, or approximately 30:70, including all ranges and subranges. In preferred embodiments, the premix:additional component ratio ranges from about 5:95 to about 15:85.

Hair treatment processes

The disclosure also relates to methods of treating hair, e.g., improving curl definition and durability, improving frizz control and/or volume, maintaining or enhancing hair integrity. curly hair in a styling routine using the compositions disclosed herein. The methods generally include applying one of the compositions according to the present disclosure to hair, particularly curly or wavy hair. The degree of curly nature and/or curl type of the hair may vary and is not limited. For example, curls of hair treated with the compositions disclosed herein may be from slightly wavy to tight, and may have different textures and colors. Hair curls can be natural or unnatural, such as through a permanent styling process using chemicals that structurally change the texture of the hair. In certain situations, the methods disclosed herein may include changing the shape of the hair, for example transforming straight hair into curly hair, before, during or after treating the hair with the compositions disclosed herein.

Specifically, in some embodiments, the methods of the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to hair having curls, when the hair is dry, wet, damp or sweaty when the composition thereon. is applied. As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to impart a desired effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curl, length, volume and texture of the hair. Typically, about 0.1g to about 5g of product is applied per gram of hair, depending on the specific product formula, length, volume and hairstyle type. The composition may be applied to the hair after shampooing and/or before conditioning, or may be applied to the hair alone, without shampooing or conditioning the hair before or after.

After the composition is applied to the hair, the hair can be massaged or combed with the fingers or using a comb or similar tool so that the composition is evenly distributed throughout the hair. If desired, after treating the hair with the compositions, while the hair is still wet or damp, the hair may be styled by scrunching, twisting, or the like, which may help define the curls. Hair treated with the composition may be air-dried or dried using a hair dryer, for example a hood hair dryer, where the composition applied to the hair may be rinsed before drying or left on. hair as a leave-in product for the desired length of time, such as a few hours, overnight or a few days, or until the next time you wash or rinse your hair. After drying the treated hair, fingers can be passed through the hair to break the film formed on the hair by the component ingredients.

For example, in a treatment routine according to one embodiment, a composition disclosed herein is applied after shampooing and rinsing the hair. Once the composition has been applied to the hair, it can be styled, for example by scrunching it by hand, several times, then dried in the open air or using a hairdryer, where the composition can remain on the hair as a leave-in composition for the desired length of time, such as a few hours, overnight or a few days, or until the next time the hair is washed or rinsed. After drying the treated hair, fingers can be passed through the hair to break the film formed on the hair by the component ingredients. In this treatment routine, the composition is used as a leave-in product.

In another treatment routine according to one embodiment, a composition disclosed herein is optionally applied after shampooing and rinsing the hair. After the composition is applied and distributed evenly over the hair, the hair is further treated with a conditioner, which allows the conditioner and the composition to remain on the hair for the desired duration, for example approximately 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 30 minutes or more and then the hair is rinsed, scrunched and air dried or using a hair dryer. In this routine, the composition is used as a rinse aid. Conditioners that can be used include any type of conditioner, such as standard conditioners or conditioners that may provide additional benefits other than conditioning, for example, a detangling benefit.

In another treatment routine according to one embodiment, a composition disclosed herein is applied to the hair when the hair is dry, damp or wet, when the hair is not pre-washed with shampoo. Once the composition applied to the hair is evenly distributed over the hair, they can remain on the hair for a desired duration, for example about 30 seconds, 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 30 minutes or more, and after this, with or without rinsing the composition from the hair, the hair is styled and dried in the air or using a hair dryer. No shampoo or conditioner is used in this routine.

Generally, when the composition is rinsed out of treated hair, the hair appears less stiff and non-brittle.

In certain other embodiments, methods according to the present disclosure may involve the use of heat. For example, a method disclosed herein may include applying to the hair a composition disclosed herein, and heating the hair while the composition is still on the hair or after rinsing the composition. In some embodiments, the hair may be washed with shampoo and rinsed before applying the composition to the hair. In some embodiments, hair with the composition applied may be treated with conditioner. The conditioner may be applied to the hair while the composition disclosed herein is still on the hair or after rinsing the composition disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the hair may be heated while the composition disclosed herein and/or the conditioner is still on the hair, or after the composition disclosed herein and/or the conditioner is rinsed out. In some embodiments, the hair may be rinsed to remove the compositions disclosed herein and/or conditioner after heating the hair.

In various embodiments, the heating apparatus or devices that may be used to heat hair include hair dryers such as hood hair dryers and blower hair dryers, a vaporizer, or a straightening iron. The hair can be heated to a temperature between 50°C and 225°C for a desired duration, for example from about 1 minute to about 5 minutes. In some situations, hair can be heated to a temperature, or with a device capable of reaching a temperature of approximately 100°C to approximately 225°C, approximately 120°C to approximately 225°C, approximately 150°C to approx. 225°C, from approx. 180°C to approx. 225°C, from approx. 100°C to approx. 200°C, from approx. 150°C to approx. 200°C. For example, a hair dryer can be used to expel air with a temperature between approximately 100°C and 225°C.

In one embodiment, a method according to the present disclosure comprises applying to the hair one of the compositions disclosed herein; after applying the compositions, drying the hair using a hairdryer at a temperature of about 60°C to about 80°C for about 2 to 3 minutes or until the hair is about 80% dry; and then applying a straightener to the hair for about 2 to 5 passes, with each pass taking about 10 seconds, where the straightener is set at a temperature between about 180°C and about 225°C .

In some embodiments, the heat treatment described above may change the shape of the hair. For example, heat applied to hair can turn straight hair into curly hair. The compositions according to the present disclosure may be applied to hair before, during or after heating and changing the shape of the hair, to improve the durability of the new shapes and reduce or minimize damage to the hair during heating, as well as to provide other sensory benefits such as frizz control and soft hair.

In certain additional embodiments, the present disclosure relates to a method of treating hair using any of the compositions disclosed herein after coloring the hair to protect the color imparted to the hair, strengthen the integrity of the hair and/or provide a control of frizz and/or volume of hair. The method may generally include applying to the hair a treatment composition comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; in which the pH of the treatment composition is less than 7; and optionally, rinsing the hair treatment composition; wherein the treatment composition is applied to the hair, the hair is applied with a coloring composition comprising at least one hair dye. In various embodiments, the at least one hair dye may be an oxidative hair dye, a direct dye, or a pigment.

In various embodiments, the methods of treating hair with the compositions according to the disclosure confer various benefits described above to the hair, without feeling greasy or flaking, compared to hair which has not been treated with a composition according to the disclosure . The term "long-lasting", as used herein, means curl definition, prevention of elongation, volume control, frizz control, effects on hair integrity and Other benefits imparted to the hair can last for a desired amount of time, like at least one or a few hours, a few days, even after rinsing or washing the hair.

III. Required

The disclosure also relates to kits comprising a first container containing a composition according to the present disclosure and/or a concentrated premix as disclosed herein, and one or more additional containers containing one or more hair care/treatment compositions other than the compositions disclosed herein, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair composition, an oxidizing composition, a hair mask or a hair composition.

The premix, or base mix, is a concentrated combination of a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; and (d) at least one polyol. The premix may be substantially free of water. For example, the premix may contain less than about 20%, less than about 18%, less than about 15%, less than about 12%, less than about 10%, less than about 8%. , less than about 5%, less than about 3%, less than about 2% or less than about 1% water. The premix can then be diluted, e.g. with water, in order to achieve a composition according to the present disclosure near or at the time of use. The kit may optionally include instructions informing the user of mixing steps, ratios, timing, etc. appropriate. where a premix is included, or instructions for use of the compositions, including various processing routines disclosed herein. The kits in various embodiments may include at least one container suitable for containing and/or dispensing the compositions described herein for application to hair. In certain other embodiments, a kit may include a first container containing a composition according to the disclosure, and at least one additional container comprising a composition according to the disclosure or a composition not according to the disclosure, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, hair mask or styling composition.

Having described in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all examples in the present disclosure, while illustrating many embodiments of the disclosure, are provided as non-limiting examples and therefore should not be construed as limiting the various aspects as well. illustrated. It is understood that all definitions herein are provided for the purposes of this disclosure only.

As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” (or “understand”, “have” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase “consisting essentially of” limits the scope of a claim to specified materials or steps and those that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions.

In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The singular forms “un”, “une”, “the”, “the” and “at least one” are understood to include the plural as well as the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations. Likewise, the expression “a salt thereof” also refers to “salts thereof.” Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that a or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.

The expression “and/or” must be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "citric acid and/or salts thereof" means "citric acid and salts thereof" as well as "citric acid or salts thereof", and expressly covers one of the cases without reference to the other.

As used herein, the expressions “and mixtures thereof”, “and a mixture thereof”, “and a combination thereof”, “or mixtures thereof”, “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof "" means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, among A + D, among A + C + D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components can be used individually or in any combination thereof.

For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or not, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation of that given value which would be reasonably inferred based on ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to experimental and/or measurement conditions for that given value.

All ranges and quantities stated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any point disclosed as a bound, and all bounds are intended to be inclusive unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%", such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%". %”, “2% to 10%”, and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc. are intended to be modified by the term "about", whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a given range of “approximately 1% to 10%” is intended to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term “approximately”. The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to +/- 10% from the stated number, such as +/- 9%, +/- 8%, +/- 7%, +/- 6 %, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, or +/- 1%. Likewise, all limits of the ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range from 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1.

As used herein, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is intended that that component is in fact present in the composition, i.e. is present in an amount greater than 0%.

All quantities stated here are relative to the amount of active material unless otherwise stated.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise noted.

As used herein, the terms "applying a composition to keratin materials" and "applying a composition to the hair" and variations of these expressions are intended to designate the bringing into contact of the keratin materials, including the hair and skin, with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also involve contacting the keratin materials in an effective quantity.

Unless otherwise stated, all percentages herein are by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.

As used herein, the term "curly hair" refers to any hair with a curl. The curl can be natural or unnatural, that is, formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair. The degree of hair curl may vary and is not limited.

As used herein, hair with enhanced or enhanced curl definition may have curls that have a clean ring shape rather than frizz, curls that appear more individualized, curls that have a more closed appearance and/or or curls that have an enhanced visual appearance of hair color and/or balayage highlights.

A “leave-in” composition or product refers to a hair treatment composition that is not rinsed and/or removed with water or an acceptable solvent after application of the composition to the keratin fiber, such as than the hair; instead, the composition is left on the hair for a desired duration, such as 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or as long as necessary, until next wash or rinse of the keratin fibers.

As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example in an aqueous solution.

It is to be understood that, with respect to the salts of carboxylic acids described herein, it is intended to encompass the use of a salt of a carboxylic acid as an ingredient added to a composition according to the disclosure, or to the salt of the carboxylic acid which forms when the carboxylic acid is used as an ingredient in a composition according to the disclosure.

As used herein, the terms "substantially free" or "substantially free" mean that my specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure Likewise, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less. of 0.05% or less than 0.01%, or none of the materials specified. Any components positively set forth in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "exempt." , "substantially free" (or "substantially free") from one or more components which are positively set forth in this disclosure. The term "substantially free" or "substantially free" as used herein may also mean. that the specific material is not added to the composition, but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

As used herein, the term "treat" (and grammatical variations thereof) refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratinous materials, such as hair.

Unless expressly stated otherwise, it is not intended that any process presented herein should be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in any specific order. Accordingly, when a process claim does not expressly cite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is not in no way intended that a particular order be deduced from it.

Examples

The following examples are only intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature. In the Examples, the quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1 – Compositions

Exemplary comparative compositions C1 and C2 and an inventive composition 1A were prepared according to the formulations presented in Table 1.

Inventive Comparative 1A C1 C2 XANTHAN GUM 1 1 GLYCERIN 1 1 CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 WATER QS QS QS

Composition C1 was prepared by mixing xanthan gum and glycerin in water and correcting the pH of the mixture to approximately 3.5-4 at 25C using a solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) at 0.1 M. Composition C2 was prepared by diluting a premix of citric acid and cyclodextrin in deionized water and correcting the pH of the dilution to approximately 3.5 -4 to 25C using 0.1 M NaOH solution. The premix of citric acid (CA) and cyclodextrin (CD) was prepared by mixing citric acid, cyclodextrin and deionized water (DI) in a molar ratio of CD:CA:DI at 1:10:50, corresponding to a weight ratio of CD:CA:DI at 29:48:23, and heating the mixture in a water bath at approximately 80°C until the CA and CD have been dissolved in the DI water and the mixture has formed a viscous liquid, leaving the mixture in the water bath. water for approximately 2 hours, then cooling the mixture to room temperature (RT). Composition 1A was prepared by diluting the citric acid and cyclodextrin premix described above in deionized water, then correcting the pH of the dilution to approximately 3.5-4 using a 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution; then, adding xanthan gum and glycerin to the solution and mixing everything using a vortex mixer (IKA® EUROSTAR Power Control from IKA Werke) for about an hour to ensure the obtaining a homogeneous gel.

A commercially available leave-in styling composition was used as comparative composition C3, which does not include xanthan gum, glycerin, or cyclodextrin. The main components of C3 are vitamin, cetearyl alcohol, preservatives, behentrimonium chloride, cetyl esters, plant extract, fragrance, amodimethicone, citric acid, vegetable oil, dyes and water.

Example 2 – Evaluation of hair strand performance in vitro

2.1 - Preparation of treated hair

The performance of composition 1A according to the present disclosure was tested on curly locks of Caucasian type in comparison with comparative compositions C1, C2, C3 (reference) and deionized water (DI), as well as 'to untreated hair.

To prepare treated hair, strands of curly (Caucasian) hair were pre-washed with standard shampoo (0.4 g/g) and air-dried overnight. The next day, the pre-washed hair strands were washed again with the standard shampoo. After the second wash, excess water was removed from the hair strands and the hair strands were ready to be treated with the compositions.

Each of compositions 1A and C1-C3, together with deionized water, was applied to three separate strands of curly (Caucasian) hair at a ratio of approximately 0.2 grams of composition per gram of hair (0.2 g /g of hair). The hair was massaged with the compositions for approximately one minute to ensure even distribution, and the treated hair was scrunched five times by hand. The samples were then allowed to dry overnight in a chamber with 20% relative humidity. After drying overnight, the strands were removed from the chamber and were wrapped in thin paper, then fingers were run through to break the film on the hair. After breaking the film, the hair strands were submitted for evaluation. The water-treated hair strands were used as an untreated control, also called “untreated” or “control” hair.

2.2 – Evaluation of treated hair

Various properties of the hair strands treated above were evaluated visually and/or instrumentally according to the following methods or protocols.

Frizz Control Rating

Hair frizz control measurement was performed using an instrument system called HEAVEN (for “Hair Evaluation for Automated Volume Estimation”) (Newton) (N=3). The system took photos of strands of hair at a desired time. The software acquired images of the strands of hair loaded inside the system equipped with a humidity and temperature control unit.

In this case, the hair strands treated above were placed in the HEAVEN system with 80% RH at 27C for 24 hours. Hair images acquired by software every hour. After 24 hours, the hair strands were removed from the HEAVEN system.

Assessing curl definition

RUMBA is a polarization imaging system that takes successive images of a hair sample illuminated by an infrared LED and under multiple polarization states, using a rotating polarizer. The images give a modulated intensity on each pixel. The modulation is caused by the birefringence of the hair fiber and contains the angular signature which can be extracted with the system software to construct an orientation image of the sample. Orientation data can be mapped onto a 2D image to visualize the entire sample. From this orientation data, a coefficient that relates to hair stiffness can be defined - the stiffer the hair fibers in the strand, the closer the orientation distribution will be to a single angle value . The standard deviation of such a distribution is therefore inversely proportional to the perception of stiffness. The same process is carried out for alignment, where the alignment of a strand of hair is defined as the hair fibers being "locally stiff". Thus, a stiffness coefficient is defined on a small scale of the mapping 2D of the orientation, which makes it possible to obtain a stiffness coefficient on each pixel of the image.

After the hair strands were exposed to approximately 80% relative humidity at 27C for approximately 24 hours and removed from the HEAVEN system, the curl definitions of the hair strands were analyzed using RUMBA (measurement of (orientation for hair fiber stiffness and alignment) from Bossa Nova Technologies, LLC and/or with photographic images. Each individual hair strand was placed in RUMBA and RUMBA images were acquired for the hair strands exposed to 80% relative humidity condition at 27C for 24 hours.

C. Measurement by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)

Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measures temperatures and heat flow associated with thermal transition in a material. It is useful for studying the structural characteristics of hair fibers. Keratin undergoes detectable transformations at different temperatures. Changes in these processing temperatures can be used to estimate the impact a particular hair treatment may have on hair fibers. In the present case, DSC was used to measure the denaturation temperature (T _d ). The denaturation temperature (T _d ) was used as a representation of the thermal stability of hair fibers, which is influenced, at least in part, by the cross-linking density of the matrix (intermediate filament associated proteins, IFAP). Thermal stability (Td) and its relationship in determining the thermal stability of hair fibers is established in the literature. Generally, hair denaturation temperature is higher if hair strength/integrity is high and vice versa.

The hair strands treated above were evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (DSC 2500 Discovery series of TA instruments). To prepare hair samples for DSC measurement, 7 to 8 grams of each treated hair strand prepared above was cut into fine-sized particles (<0.5 mm). The hair particles were placed in a large volume DSC bin chamber. Approximately 50 μL of deionized water (DI water) was added to the tray and the hair particles were soaked in the water. The tray chamber was then sealed using a crimping die. For each hair strand sample processed, four bins were prepared (i.e. n=4).

Hair samples were equilibrated at room temperature overnight. The next day, i.e. approximately 24 hours after hair treatment, the hair samples were run on the DSC equipment starting at 40°C and ramping at 10°C/min up to 180°C.

The Td value was measured in degrees Celsius, which represents the cross-linking density of the hair matrix. Trios software was used to statistically analyze the denaturation temperature values measured by the DSC equipment. An increase in Td indicates an interaction between active hair and matrix proteins.

D. Fiber durability tests (cyclic fatigue tensile tests, ETFC)

Cyclic fatigue tests are typically used to simulate the repeated tensile stress that occurs during combing and brushing. Cyclic fatigue data and survival probability exhibit both internal fiber defects and external breakage of the cuticle layer. Cyclic fatigue testing provides a unique instrumental tool to demonstrate progressive levels of damaged hair fibers. Fibers with relatively large defects will likely fail at fewer cycles of applied stress than fibers with minor defects.

Fiber durability testing (cycles to failure (CJR)) was carried out using a Dia-Stron Ltd. 801 Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Testing Machine (METFC). The hair sample size for each hair strand was approximately 50 fibers per sample. The fibers were 28 mm long. The experiment was carried out at approximately 23°C, with 45% relative humidity, and using constant stress over a specified area.

The measurements were analyzed using UVWin analysis software version 4.2.5.0 (n=50 fibers/sample). A higher CJR indicates a more durable fiber.

2.3 - Results

A. HEAVEN Results

HEAVEN images of the treated hair strands after 24 hours of exposure to 80% relative humidity (80% RH) at 27C were shown on the . As can be seen in the images, the strand of hair treated with composition 1A appeared much less frizzy than the hair treated with compositions C1, C2 and C3, as well as the water-treated control hair. The effects were long-lasting, even after the hair was exposed to an 80% RH condition for 24 hours.

The statistical frizz rates of the treated hair strands after 24 hours of exposure to a condition of 80% RH at 27C were illustrated in more detail on the . As shown in the , hair treated with composition 1A showed the least frizz, compared to hair treated with compositions C1-C3 and hair treated with water.

B. RUMBA Results

The 2D images obtained with the RUMBA system for the hair strands treated after 24 hours of exposure to a condition of 80% RH at 27C were illustrated on the . As can be seen on the , the hair treated with composition 1A demonstrated the best alignment of the hair, corresponding to the most defined curls and the best discipline, in comparison to the hair treated with compositions C1, C2 and C3, as well as with the control hair treated with the water.

C. DSC results

Denaturation temperatures of treated hair measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) are shown on the line graph of the . As can be seen in the line graph of the , while the hair treated with composition C2 had the highest denaturation temperature, the hair treated with composition 1A had a significantly higher denaturation temperature (Td) than the hair treated with compositions C1 and C3, as well as the untreated hair control. The results show that the integrity of hair treated with composition 1A was significantly improved.

D. Fiber Sustainability Results

There is a graph showing the cycles needed to break hair treated with composition 1A, compared to the cycles needed to break hair treated with compositions C1-C3, and control hair treated with water. As can be seen on the , the cycles necessary to break the hair treated with composition 1A were significantly greater than the cycles necessary to break the hair treated with compositions C1-C3, and the control hair treated with water.

E. Summary of results

In summary, the above results show that hair treated with Composition 1A exhibited significant overall improvement in frizz control, curl definition, cross-linking density and durability, when compared to untreated hair and to hair treated with compositions C1, C2 or C3. Curly hair treated with composition 1A showed significantly less frizz and significantly greater durability than hair treated with composition C2, which does not include polysaccharide thickening agents and polyols. Additionally, curly hair treated with composition 1A had significantly improved crosslinking density and durability, compared to curly hair treated with composition C1, where no carboxylic acids or salts thereof, nor cyclodextrins or derivatives thereof -these are not included.

Example 3 – Study of forks

The performance of composition 1A according to the present information on repairing split ends of hair was evaluated on curly strands of hair in comparison with comparative compositions C1 and C2, as well as on the untreated control.

The study was carried out according to the following procedure:

Wash hair sections with standard shampoo (0.4 g/g of hair).

Dry the sections of hair with paper towels.

Place the wet hair strands in a weighing boat.

Apply each composition 1A, C1 and C2, along with water, as a drop onto a separate section of hair using a plastic pipette from top to bottom, where DI water and composition C2 have were applied in a ratio of approximately 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair (0.4 g/g of hair), and compositions C1 and 1A were applied in a ratio of approximately 0.2 g of composition per gram of hair.

Then, hold each sample and massage for 1 min with your fingers to ensure the product is evenly distributed.

Air dry the treated sections of hair overnight.

The next day, break the crust/film on dry hair by running your fingers through the hair.

Count the fibers with completely blocked forks.

Wash the hair strands with shampoo three times (Shampoo 3x).

Count the fibers with blocked forks post-shampoo.

The results of the fork study are illustrated on the , which shows the percentage of complete split ends repair achieved by composition 1A in comparison to composition C1 and C2, as well as to the untreated control, counted the day after application when the hair was dry and after breaking the film and following three shampoos after treatment using the compositions. As shown in the , the control hair, that is to say the hair treated with water, had the most split ends. Hair treated with compositions 1A, C1 and C2 all showed significant improvement in split end repair compared to the control after treating the hair strands with the compositions and before shampooing. After the hair strands treated with each composition and the untreated hair strands were washed three times using shampoo, the split end repair percentages in all hair strands decreased. However, compared to untreated hair, the ends of hair treated with composition 1A were still significantly repaired, and the repair performance of composition 1A was still better than that of compositions C2 and C1. Thus, the benefits of composition 1A in terms of repairing split ends last, even after three shampoos.

Example 4 – Routine treatment study

A hair treatment routine involving rinsing the composition according to the present disclosure from the treated hair at the end of the treatment to eliminate the brittleness of the treated hair was studied.

In this study, two strands of curly (Caucasian) hair were pre-washed with standard shampoo (0.4 g/g hair). Once the shampoo is rinsed out, the excess water has been removed from the hair strands. Composition 1A was then applied to a pre-washed strand of hair at a bath ratio of approximately 0.2 g of composition per gram of hair (0.2 g/g) while the hair was still wet or damp. The hair with Composition 1A applied was thoroughly massaged for approximately one (1) minute to ensure that the composition was evenly distributed throughout the hair. While composition 1A was left on the hair, a commercially available detangling conditioner was applied to the hair and the hair was massaged for approximately 1 minute to ensure even distribution of the conditioner throughout my hair strand. . Next, the hair sample was rinsed to remove composition 1A and conditioner. Once composition 1A and conditioner were rinsed out, the strand was scrunched five times by hand and then air dried. As a control, the other pre-washed section of hair was treated according to the same routine process described above, except that no composition 1A was applied to the hair. Once the hair was dried, the two strands of hair were evaluated by tactile assessment and visual observation.

The evaluation results showed that hair treated with composition 1A according to the rinsing routine, where the hair was rinsed at the end of the treatment routine, appeared smooth and not brittle. In addition, compared to the control strand not treated with composition 1A, the hair treated with composition 1A according to the rinsing routine had better curl definition and less frizz.

Example 5 – In vivo tests

The performance of composition 1A has been tested on consumers. Approximately 10 g of composition 1A were applied to the consumers' heads via a half-head application. 24 hours after application, hair was appreciated for the benefits of frizz control and curl definition. There shows photos of two consumers' hair 24 hours after treatment. The left side of the head had composition 1A applied, and the right side of the head was an untreated control, i.e., had water applied. As can be seen on the , Composition 1A provides notable benefits such as curl definition, discipline, style/shape hold and control of hair volume and density, where volume, degree of curl and color of hair hair varied.

Example 6 – Evaluation of progressive benefits

The performance of composition 1A through multiple applications was evaluated on hair strands that were bleached twice, in comparison to multiple applications on the same type of hair strands that were natural, i.e. say not discolored.

During the tests, strands of unbleached natural hair and strands of hair bleached twice (pre-bleached hair) were applied with composition 1A in a bath ratio of approximately 0.2 grams of composition per gram of hair ( 0.2 g/g of hair). After applying the composition, the hair strands were massaged for approximately 1 minute with fingers to ensure that the composition was evenly distributed throughout the hair, then air dried overnight. The next day, the denaturation temperatures (Td) of the hair strands were measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (TA instruments DSC 2500 Discovery series) according to the process described above.

The measurement results were analyzed and shown on the graph of the . As can be seen on the , After bleaching, the denaturing temperature of unbleached natural hair decreased significantly, indicating that the hair was damaged by bleaching. After being treated with Composition 1A once, three times or five times, the denaturing temperatures of natural hair and bleached hair increased, the more treatments, the higher the denaturing temperature. The results demonstrate that treatment with composition 1A improved the integrity of natural hair and bleached hair, i.e. damaged hair. Furthermore, the improvement in the integrity of damaged hair was more significant, compared to the improvement imparted to natural hair. For example, as shown in , after the bleached hair was treated with composition 1A five times, the denaturation temperature of the bleached hair increased significantly to a level close to that of natural hair after the natural hair was treated with composition 1A five times , and was even higher than the denaturing temperature of untreated natural hair.

The above examples demonstrate that the compositions disclosed provide improved curl definition and/or frizz control to hair, which lasts over time, even after exposure to high humidity, over a range of ratios. molars, of different concentrations and components.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be made to the compositions and methods according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. It is therefore intended that the disclosure covers these modifications and variations as well as their equivalents.

Claims (10)

Composition for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

1. at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof;
2. at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof;
3. at least one polysaccharide thickening agent;
4. at least one polyol; And
5. some water ;

in which the composition has a pH less than 7, preferably from about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 3 to about 5, even more preferably from about 3 to about 4.5, most preferably from about 3 to about 4. Composition according to claim 1, having a molar ratio of (a) carboxylic acid and its salts to (b) cyclodextrins and their derivatives ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably about 4:1 to about 15:1, more preferably about 5:1 to about 12:1, most preferably about 6:1 to about 10:1. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, in which:

1. the at least one carboxylic acid or its salt is chosen from mono-carboxylic acids, di-carboxylic acids, tri-carboxylic acids, their salts or their mixtures, preferably tri-carboxylic acids, their salts or their mixtures , And
2. the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is chosen from those of formula:

in which :
R is chosen from H, CH₃, or a hydroxypropyl group; and n goes from 6 to 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which:

1. the at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof is chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid , their salts or their mixtures, preferably citric acid, their salts or their mixtures;
2. the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is chosen from α-cyclodextrin, ß-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of ß-cyclodextrin, derivatives methyl γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of ß-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, preferably ß-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of ß-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl derivatives of β-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, preferably β-cyclodextrin;
3. the at least one polysaccharide thickening agent is chosen from inulins, celluloses, starches, gums, their derivatives or their mixtures, preferably from gums, preferably from guar gums, xanthan gums, gums of pullulan, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gums arabic, xyloses, tragacanth gums, their derivatives or their mixtures, preferably from the gum of xanthan; And
4. the at least one polyol is chosen from C ₂ - C ₁₆ polyols, preferably from glycols, more preferably chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, or mixtures thereof, most preferably glycerin.

Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which:

1. the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5%;
2. the total quantity of cyclodextrins and their derivatives ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 18%, more preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, more preferably further from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight;
3. the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents ranges from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%; And
4. the total amount of polyols is at least 0.5%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%;

in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hair treatment composition comprising:

1. from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5% carboxylic acids chosen from citric acid, its salts or their mixture;
2. from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, even more preferably from about 0.1% at approximately 10%, most preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5% of β-cyclodextrin, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof;
3. from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% polysaccharide thickening agents;
4. at least about 0.5%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% polyols; And
5. at least about 80% by weight of water;

wherein the composition has a pH ranging from about 3 to about 5; And
in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 6, having a molar ratio of (a) citric acid and its salts to (b) β-cyclodextrin and its derivatives ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably about 4 :1 to about 15:1, more preferably about 5:1 to about 12:1, most preferably about 6:1 to about 10:1. Hair treatment process comprising:
the application to the hair of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7; And
optionally, rinsing the composition from the hair. Hair treatment process comprising:
the application to the hair of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7;
heating the hair to which the composition has been applied using a heater having a temperature ranging from about 50°C to about 225°C; And
optionally, rinsing the composition from the hair before or after heating the hair. A method according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the method is a method for maintaining and/or improving curl definition, a method for improving curl durability, or a method for imparting frizz control and/or volume to hair.