FR3140277A1 - Cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one particular amino silicone and at least one associative polymer, and cosmetic hair treatment method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one particular amino silicone and at least one associative polymer.

Description

Cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one particular amino silicone and at least one associative polymer, and cosmetic hair treatment method

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising at least one particular amino silicone and at least one associative polymer.

The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of hair, and more particularly a method of cleaning and/or conditioning hair, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention.

Hair is sensitive to many types of aggression and can be weakened and damaged to varying degrees by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, atmospheric pollution and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or straightening, or even repeated washing.

The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and we can observe different manifestations of the damage, such as difficulty detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, hair which can eventually become dry, brittle or dull, in particular in fragile places, and more particularly at the tips.

To remedy these drawbacks, and in particular to repair damaged hair, it is usual to use hair cosmetic compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. Current compositions generally aim to reduce hair surface defects in particular via the deposition of compounds with conditioning valence such as silicones, and more particularly aminated silicones. The effects obtained are generally based on the use of high levels of silicones, which can however have the disadvantage of a weighing down effect, or loss of lightness, of the hair.

Furthermore, although there are numerous treatment formulas for hair repair, they generally do not provide the hair with entirely satisfactory and long-lasting cosmetic properties, particularly when the hair is very weakened, sensitized or damaged. Thus, we have observed that for the most damaged hair, the level of care may prove insufficient; in particular the smoothness (visual and to the touch) of the hair as well as its softness can be further improved.

Furthermore, the perception of these effects is generally only possible at the time of application and in the few hours that follow.

Finally, the use of high levels of silicone may be perceived unfavorably by consumers.

The invention therefore aims to propose a hair cleaning and/or conditioning composition which solves the problems mentioned above, and in particular will provide a high level of care and conditioning, in particular to the most damaged hair, these effects being perceptible even at low contents of amino silicone.

The present invention also aims to propose compositions that perform well in terms of cosmetic properties provided to the hair, on the one hand at the time of application and on the other hand sustainably over time.

These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising:
- at least one amino silicone of formula (I) as defined below; And
- at least one associative polymer.

It has been found that the composition according to the invention rinses easily, which makes it possible to avoid the use of large quantities of water to eliminate it if necessary, for example when the composition is in the form of shampoo or shampoo. rinse-out conditioner.

After application, it provides a good level of care, in particular a smooth touch and visual character, softness, a homogeneous coating from root to tip and therefore repair of damaged ends, as well as ultimately a clean and smooth feel. natural, and without weighing down, hair. The benefits of care and repair are very marked while maintaining added value in lightness and cleanliness.

Better curl definition was also observed when the composition was applied to curly hair, as well as an effect of discipline and control of the hair, and good volume control.

These effects of care and lightness and clean touch are significant from application and remain perceptible for at least 24 hours, or until the next shampoo. They can even persist after shampooing.

In addition, these cosmetic performances, in particular detangling, softness, smoothness and coating, can advantageously be obtained with a low silicone content, in particular a lower content than the content usually used.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
- the term “molecular weight” is equivalent to the term “molecular mass”;

- the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted;
- the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included.

By “cosmetic hair care composition” is meant in the context of the invention a cosmetic composition for washing (or cleaning) hair, and/or for conditioning hair.

In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic hair care composition is advantageously a pre-shampoo, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed after application.

Amino silicone

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone of formula (I)

in which :
- R, identical or different, represents a methyl group (CH ₃ ), a hydroxy radical (OH) or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms (OR1 with R1 = C1-C4 alkyl);

- R' represents a methyl group (CH ₃ ) or a hydroxy radical (OH);
- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms;
the aminated silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

Preferably, R, identical or different, represents a methyl group and/or a hydroxy radical. Better still, the two radicals R are identical, and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better a methyl radical.

Preferably, R’ represents a methyl group.

Preferably, A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -).

In formula (I), the values of n and m are chosen such that the aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (I) has an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq/g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g, even better ranging from 0. 1 to 0.16 meq/g.

Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (I) has a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still from 25,000 to 50,000, even better from 35,000 to 45,000.

A person skilled in the art will be able to determine, on the basis of his general knowledge, the values of n and m in order to obtain a silicone having the desired amine index and weight average molecular mass.

Preferably, in formula (I), m is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better between 1.5 and 5; and the n/m ratio is between 45 and 330, better between 100 and 300.

The value of n can then easily be determined based on all of these data; in particular, n can be between 400 and 600.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I):

in which :
- R, identical, and R' represent a methyl group,
- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -),
the aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000.
Preferably, in this embodiment, m is between 1.4 and 13, the ratio n/m is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600.

The aminated silicone of formula (I) preferably has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better still from 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000- 6000 cps), even better 3 to 5 Pa.s.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content which may range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight. weight, even better 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, better still 0.1 to 1.2 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amino silicone of formula (I) can be prepared by all the means usually used in the silicone industry.

Associative Polymers

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are nonionic or cationic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any compound resulting from polycondensation polymerization or radical polymerization of monomers of which at least one is different from an alkylene oxide and a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R designating a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally hydroxylated, and X designating a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl, ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide on a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, a fatty amine are excluded.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group.

The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain contains 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

A particular case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic zones or groups (comprising at least one chain fatty) by which polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

By "hydrophobic group" is meant a group or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrophobic hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

By “fatty chain” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 atoms. of carbon.

By “fatty” compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the anionic associative polymers, we can in particular cite:

- (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly those:
the hydrophilic unit of which is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; And
whose fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I') following: CH ₂ =C(R')-CH ₂ OB _n R
in which R' denotes H or CH ₃ , B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl radical (C ₁₈ ).
Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of C alkyl (meth)acrylates are particularly preferred. ₁ -C ₄ , from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I'), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer , such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide.
We particularly prefer crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) and stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular that sold by the company BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80 which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer.

- (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:

in which R ₁ denotes H, CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester type (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) following:

in which R ₂ denotes H, CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , and R ₃ denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , alkyl radical.
Alkyl esters (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate , dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
(i) (meth)acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ , R ₃ denotes an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally
(iii) a cross-linking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide .
Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, and 0 are more particularly preferred. at 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ and 0 alkyl acrylate, 1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
We can in particular cite the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, with the name INCI Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and again more preferably PEMULEN TR1 and CARBOPOL 1382.

- (C) maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer).

- (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising
(a) 20 to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid,
(b) 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer different from (a), and
(c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.
Mention may in particular be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer (40 EO), particularly in a 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) of INCI name Polyacrylate-3.

- (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers
(i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and
(ii) an ester of carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and of fatty alcohol in particular oxyalkylenated C8-C32, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 at 50, or even 10 to 40 OE.
Mention may in particular be made as monomers of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate, comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.
Preferably these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C ₁ -C ₄ alcohol, in particular a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate.
Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, oxyethylenated comprising 2 to 100 moles EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO, or even 10 to 40 EO.
As examples, we can cite ACULYN 22 sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

- (F) associative polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.
Among the polymers of this type, we can cite more especially
--crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) and from 40 to 85% by weight of units (C ₈ - C ₁₆ )alkyl(meth)acrylate relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899
--terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mole% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mole% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mole% of n-(C ₆ -C ₈ )alkylacrylamide units, such than those described in patent US5089578
-- copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide
-- copolymers consisting of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units such as ARISTOFLEX HMS® marketed by the company CLARIANT, (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by the company CLARIANT, or steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC® from CLARIANT (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer).

- (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one carboxylic acid monomer with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation such as the terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl methacrylate , for example lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE ^® LM (INCI name VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite:
- (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) _n -[L-(Y) _m ] _r -L'-(P') _p -X '-R'
in which :
R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L";
L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer included between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive,
n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusive;
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above in which:
R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X, X' each represent a group L'',
n and p are integers which are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and
L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
n=p=0 (the polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation),
the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, that is to say compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine,
n = p = 0, and
L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

The number average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300,000 inclusive.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' designate a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulas:

in which :
R ₂ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;
R ₁ and R ₃ , identical or different, designate a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:
in which :
Z represents –O-, -S- or –NH-; And
R ₄ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S , O and P.

The P and P' groups, comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

in which :
R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ defined previously;
R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meanings as R ₁ and R ₃ defined previously;
R ₁₀ represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P,
and A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate.

With regard to the meaning of Y, the term hydrophilic group means a water-soluble polymeric or non-polymeric group.

By way of example, we can cite, when it is not a question of polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and different compounds having labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions can be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas respectively. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one amine function unit. This compound can be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl function, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As indicated previously, this compound may contain more than one amine-functional unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the amine function unit.

This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas:
HZ-(P) _n -ZH, or HZ-(P') _p -ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of N methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl-diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=NR ₄ -N=C=O in which R ₄ is defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl-diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may for example be alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. We can also have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

By way of example, we can cite, when it is not a question of polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Indeed, the units with quaternary or protonated amine function can be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

- (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:
- i) quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof ;
- ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures of these ;
- iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :
R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group R _a R _b R _c N ⁺ -, Q ^- in which R _a , R _b , R _c , identical or different represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₃₀ preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ , such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; And
n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

As examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl celluloses with C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chains, we can indicate the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the CRODACEL QM® products (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL® (C ₁₂ alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ - and R ' represents dimethyl dodecylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₂ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )N ⁺ -. This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL /DOW CHEMICAL with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

More particularly the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cps.

- (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
- a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
- b) at least one monomer of the following structures (Ic) or (IIc):

in which :
X designates an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
R ₁ and R ₆ designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl radical,
R ₂ designates a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical,
R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):
in which :
Y, Y ₁ and Y ₂ designate, independently of each other, a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₆ alkylene radical,
R ₇ denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical,
R ₈ designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical,
p, q and r designate, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1,
m and n designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusively,
x designates an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusively,
Z designates an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate;
provided that :
- at least one of the substituents R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ or R ₈ designates a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical,
- if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1,
- if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

Preferably the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

Preferably R ₃ , R ₄ and R ₅ designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical.

More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which s designates an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R ₉ designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl radical and R ₁₀ designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl radical, provided that one at least of the radicals R ₉ and R ₁₀ denotes a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:
a)-a monomer of formula (IVc),
b)-a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R ₃ and R ₄ designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C alkyl radical ₅ and R ₅ denotes a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₄ alkyl radical and
c)-a monomer of formula (IIc) in which R ₃ and R ₄ designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl radical.

Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, will be used.
40 to 95% monomer (a),
0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and
0.25 to 50% monomer (b).
Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00/68282.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular:
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers.

The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide/lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name Polyquaternium-55).

The molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

- (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as described in patent application WO2004/024779.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
- a di(C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl)amino(C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl esters and (meth)acrylic acid,
- a polyethoxylated C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy methacrylate (C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl), and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

(1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ ; preferably from:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ , such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ , such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose sold in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL,
- and their mixtures.

(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ , such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with a fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C _{28 alkyl} . We can cite as an example:
- the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP
- the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

(4) Copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyls and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ , such as by example the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ , such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/methacrylate copolymer lauryl.

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic chains.

(7) Polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₂ alkyl, better still C ₁₄ -C ₂₈ , such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblocked, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be grafts or stars.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

As examples of non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain which can be used in the invention, one can also use Rhéolate 205® with a urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. We can also cite the product ELFACOS T210® with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

We can also use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. You can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380,389 (1993).

Even more particularly, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising
(i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide,
(ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and
(iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol ( 39%) and water (26%)].

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers and/or one or more cationic associative polymers preferably chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular celluloses, of which hydroxyethylcelluloses, quaternized modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures of these; and/or quaternized celluloses corresponding to formula (Ib) above, in particular POLYQUATERNIUM-67; preferably one or more cationic associative polymers chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cationic associative polymer(s) chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the forms conceivable by those skilled in the art, and include the additional ingredients usually used in this type of composition.

These hair cleaning and/or conditioning compositions may be, for example, shampoos, pre-shampoos (to be applied before shampooing), conditioners, masks or serums, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed (leave-in) after application.
They can be presented, in a known manner, in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams of varying thickness.

They can therefore comprise, in a known manner, one or more surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more additional silicones, one or more polymers, one or more coloring agents, one or more thickening agents, one or more polyols, as well as a mixture of these different ingredients.

In particular, when the composition according to the invention is a pre-shampoo or a shampoo, it may advantageously comprise one or more anionic surfactants, and/or one or more amphoteric surfactants, and/or one or more nonionic surfactants, and/ or one or more polymers, in particular cationic polymers.

Preferably, when the composition used in the context of the invention is a pre-shampoo or a shampoo, it can advantageously comprise one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably one or more cationic polymers, optionally one or more several nonionic surfactants.

In particular, when the composition of the invention is a conditioner or a mask, it may advantageously comprise one or more cationic surfactants and/or one or more non-silicone fatty substances.

Whatever its purpose, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional silicones, one or more thickening agents, and/or one or more polyols.

Pigments

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one pigment.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

By “pigment” we mean all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the encyclopedia of chemical technology by Kirk-Othmer and in the encyclopedia of industrial chemistry by Ullmann.

They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.

These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, pigments with special effects such as pearls or flakes, lamellar pigments and their mixtures.

The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By “organic pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo , thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, The yellow pigments codified in the color index under the references C 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21100, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the color index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, The orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525 , 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives such as that they are described in the FR patent 2,679,771.

By way of example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
- COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
- COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
- ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
- COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
- CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
- VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
- COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
- VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
- COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments such as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring fixation organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the dyes, we can cite carminic acid. We can also cite the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment can also be a special effect pigment. By special effect pigments, we mean pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain nuance, a certain vividness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature , observation angles, etc.). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a classic uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as pearlescent, interference pigments or glitter.

As examples of special effect pigments, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As pearlescent pigments, we can cite Cellini pearls marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica- TiO2-Fe2O3).

We can also cite gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearls marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a copper reflection, notably marketed by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, notably marketed by the MERCK company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow reflection, notably marketed by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red pearls with a gold reflection, notably marketed by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection silver, in particular marketed by the MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish-golden green orange mother-of-pearl, in particular marketed by the MERCK company under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Still as an example of nacre, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

Finally, as examples of mother-of-pearl, we can also cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). We can also consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

The special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface condition, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection can, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlighting points visible to the naked eye, this is i.e. brighter points that contrast with their environment by appearing to glow.

The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

These particles can have various shapes, in particular being in the shape of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they can be composed for example of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated by at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. . The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and/or inorganic.

More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.

It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, etc. steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and their mixtures.

As an example, we can cite aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

We can also cite pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether substances which fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the Quantum Dots Corporation.

The variety of pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

The pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of pigments. These dispersants also have at least one compatible or soluble functional group in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate are used. molecular weight of approximately 750g/mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21,000 by the company Avecia, polygyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or even polyhydroxystearic acid such than that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As another dispersant which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the composition can be surface treated with an organic agent.

Thus the pigments previously treated on the surface useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have totally or partially undergone a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention. These organic agents can for example be chosen from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found commercially as is.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Preferably, an organic agent linked to the pigments in a covalent manner will be used.

The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the pigment treated on the surface, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
- a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
- a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Acrylate Copolymer/Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Acrylate/Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of submicron size in the coloring composition.

By “sub-micron” or in English “sub-micronic” we mean pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (µm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 µm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 µm.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in a quantity (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent is suitable for dispersing the pigments and is compatible with a condensation-curable formulation.
By “compatible” is meant, for example, that said dispersing agent is miscible in the oily phase of the composition or dispersion containing the pigment(s), it does not delay or reduce hardening. The dispersing agent is preferably cationic.

The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described. Suitable dispersing agents include:
- amino-silicones, ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups, such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,
- silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
- polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type different from the alkoxysilanes previously described and are cationic.

Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.

Preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

Preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.

Preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of mixtures of mineral pigments.

Preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of mixtures of organic pigments.

Preferably, the pigment(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of mixtures of organic and mineral pigments.

Preferably, the pigments are pigments chosen from organic pigments, more preferably from anthraquinone compounds, in particular the monosodium salt of alizurol purple (ext. Violet 2, CI 60 730).

The pigment(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10%% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.007 to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactants

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one anionic surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactant.

Anionic surfactants are non-silicone.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not including a cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. We can obviously use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:
- the anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; And
- sulfated anionic surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

The anionic carboxylic surfactants likely to be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ).
They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
R _1' –(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n' –OCH ₂ COOA (1)
in which :
- R _1' represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R _2' CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R _2' designating a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched at C9-C21; preferably R _1' is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;
- n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R _1' groups.

The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:
- R _1' denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical;
- A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R _1' denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and does not vary from 2 to 10.

Among the commercial products, we can preferably use the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
AKYPO® NP 70 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)
AKYPO® NP 40 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)
AKYPO®OP 40 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)
AKYPO® OP 80 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)
AKYPO® OP 190 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)
AKYPO® RLM 38 (R ₁ =C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=H)
AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=Na)
AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)
AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)
AKYPO® RLM 100 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=H)
AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=Na)
AKYPO® RLM 130 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=13, A=H)
AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=16, A=Na),
or by the company SANDOZ under the names:
SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=H)
SANDOPAN DTC (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=Na)
SANDOPAN LS 24 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=12, A=Na)
SANDOPAN JA 36 (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=18, A=H),
and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:
AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO® RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe-noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: the Alkylsulfonates, the AlkyLethersulfonates, the AlkyLamidesulfonates, the Alkylarylsulfonates, the Alpha-Olefonates, the Paraffinesulfonates, the Alkylsulfosuccinates, the Alkyléthersulfosuccinates, Alkylsulfoacetates, n-acyltaurates, acylisethiones; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).
They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As an example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture,
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;
- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;
- C6-C24 acylglutamates, particularly C12-C20;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 preferably comprising from 1 to 20 oxide units. ethylene; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol; as well as their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can also be free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or in mixture,
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;
- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

When present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular being able to range from 1 to 28% by weight, in particular from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 7 to 23% by weight, better still from 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric surfactant(s).

The amphoteric surfactant(s) which may be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone.

Mention may be made in particular, alone or in a mixture, of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines and alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₆ -C ₈ )sulfobetaines.

They may also be chosen from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group. such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also cite the compounds of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

(A) R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^-
in which :
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

(B) R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B')
in which :
- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular in C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

(C) R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e )
in which :
- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the amphoteric surfactants, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures are preferably used. , and the compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, in particular of sodium, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures.

When present, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity which may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 12% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one cationic surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactant.

Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:
- compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​} ;
the groups R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₄ designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
The aliphatic groups can include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropy-ldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):
(III)
in which
R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
^- carbon.
Preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₇ designates a methyl group, R ₈ designates a hydrogen atom.

Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV):
(IV)

in which
R ₉ designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _9a )(R _10a )(R _11a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , with R _9a , R _10a , R _11a ,
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​} in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:
(V)
in which :
R ₁₅ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R ₁₆ is chosen from the group R ₁₉ -C(O)-; the R ₂₀ groups which are C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,
R ₁₈ is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the R ₂₂ groups which are C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
r, s and t, identical or different, are integers valued from 2 to 6;
y is an integer from 1 to 10;
x and z, identical or different, are integers valued from 0 to 10;
X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₁₆ designates R ₂₀ and that when z is 0 then R ₁₈ designates R ₂₂ .

The R ₁₅ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R ₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₀ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁₈ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₂ group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function can be used.
The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which
R ₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ₁₆ is chosen from the group R ₁₉ -C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₈ is chosen from the group R ₂₁ -C(O)- and the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl -dimethylammonium and their mixtures. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, they may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids or on mixtures of C ₁₀ - fatty acids. C ₃₀ of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts.

The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ .

Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

As fatty amines, we can cite amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

By fatty amidoamine is meant an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the following amidoamines of formula (VI):
RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (VI)
in which :
- R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₅ -C alkyl radical ₂₉ , preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ , linear or branched, or a C ₅ -C ₂₉ alkenyl radical, preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ linear or branched;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; And
- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .

The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine , myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethyl amine , olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and their mixtures; even better among those of formula (II) above.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulphates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, salts of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; dipalmitoylethyl–hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl–methylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-Ionic Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

Said nonionic surfactants can be chosen from:
- alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C ₈ to C ₄₀ alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 containing 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4;
- ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan esters) preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units,
- fatty acid esters of sucrose,
- esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, preferably polyoxyethylenated having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,
- N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives,
- amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C _{14 acyl} )-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
- nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type.

Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type can be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v designates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants have the formula described above in which:
- R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. We particularly prefer C ₈ /C ₁₆ alkyl -(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters which may be used in the context of the invention include in particular the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 oxide units. of ethylene. The oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are preferably used.

Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are, among others, marketed under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

Mention may in particular be made of sorbitan oxyethylene mono-laurate at 4 EO, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 21, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-laurate at 20 EO, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 20, mono-palmitate sorbitan oxyethylene at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 40, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-stearate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 60, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-stearate at 4 EO e.g. e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 61, sorbitan oxyethylene tri-stearate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 65, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 80 , sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate at 5 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 81, sorbitan oxyethylene tri-oleate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

In the present presentation, and in a manner well known in itself, the term “compound with X OE” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.

Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ .

The preferred sorbitan esters are the oxyethylenated derivatives of C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid monoesters and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, oxyethylene sorbitan mono-laurate at 20 EO, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate at 20 EO, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl)(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even better 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic Polymers

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone polymers which may be chosen from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, amphoteric polymers and cationic polymers; different from associative polymers as described previously.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.

Advantageously, the polymer(s), particularly cationic, are different from associative polymers (they are therefore non-associative).

The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and/or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers likely to be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq/g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if we know the structure of the polymer, that is to say the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

The cationic polymers capable of being used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 500 and 5.10 ⁶ , preferably between approximately 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ .

Among the cationic polymers likely to be used, we can cite:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

in which:
- R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C ₁ -C ₄ ), acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:
- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products called "COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937";
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name “SALCARE® SC 92” by the company CIBA.
It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

We can in particular cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576; we can cite hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. We can particularly cite quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, the quaternizing agent possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and particularly hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307; we can cite cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. We can thus cite guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of guar gums carry cationic trialkyammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkyammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

We can in particular cite the products with the INCI name “HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

Among the cationic polysaccharides likely to be used, we can also cite cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can cite the INCI name product “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or even by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, 'an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer. /epoxypropyl/diethylene-triamine.

(7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, denote a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₅ hydroxyalkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₄ amidoalkyl group; or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ can designate jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, preferably denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group;
- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6), for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

in which :
- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,
or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen
or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH group -R ₁₇ -D where R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazin ring;
furthermore if A1 designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a group (CH ₂ )n-CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ )p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D designating:
a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ CH ₂ - and - [CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )O] _y -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )- where x and y designate an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a medium degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20, and
X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound is that for which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula:

in which :
- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ radical (OCH ₂ CH ₂ )pOH, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,
- X ^- designates an anion such as a halide,
- A designates a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

We can for example cite the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B). , preferably from 10 to 100 mole % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mole % of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic environment.

The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mole.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095 , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

Preferably, the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the polymers of family (1) and in particular the polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl salts ( C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium such as POLYQUATERNIUM-7; and cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as their mixtures.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the polymer(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 at 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0. 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional silicones

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one additional silicone.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional silicone(s).

The additional silicone(s) are different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

By this we mean that said additional silicones do not fall within the definition of formula (I), for example because they do not have an amine number and/or a molecular mass as defined for silicones of formula (I) and/or because the meaning of at least one of their radicals R, R' and/or A is different from those indicated for the silicones of formula (I) or even because they have a structure chemically different from that of silicones of formula (I).

The additional silicone(s) may in particular be chosen from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The additional silicone(s) are different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-aminated silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amine silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

The non-amine silicones which may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; oils and silicone gums are preferred.

Silicones are described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure 1 atm), in particular from:

i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure:

We can cite the “VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109” marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
- mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2, 2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or in mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amine organopolysiloxanes (or polysiloxanes). organomodified, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amine organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and groups polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylenated.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET ^® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively alkyl(C ₁₂ )-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL ^® S201" and "ABIL ^® S255".

The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- 200 series oils from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the 48 series oils from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- silicones from the PK series from BAYER such as the PK20 product;
- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from the SF series from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The non-amine silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

By amine silicone we designate any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones which can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C. , for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;

B) amino silicones corresponding to formula (IIa):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (IIa)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups: -NR''- QN(R'') ₂ , -N(R'') ₂ , -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- , -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (IIa) can be chosen from:

(i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

(ii) silicones of formula (IV) following:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

(iii) silicones of formula (V) following:

in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amine silicones of structure (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amine silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural amino silicones (XIV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any nature but preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

(iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

(v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

C) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
And
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX)

in which :
- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , a radical -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;
- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; And
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; we can in particular cite the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.

Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

E) amino silicones of formula (X):

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.

F) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-] or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R designate a radical CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ -; And
- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol.

We can in particular cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

G) amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

in which :
- R, R' and R'', identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can cite in particular the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; and preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:
- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- going from 1 to 100;
- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the groups dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. We can cite in particular the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), we can cite the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin Etsu company.

In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3000.
As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below:

in which :
- n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;
- m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;
- R''', identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms carbon; said radicals optionally being able to be substituted by one or more OH hydroxyl groups;
- R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
- R'' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the R''', identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; we can in particular cite the dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals; preferably the R''', identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, C15, alone or in mixture, and better represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

Preferably, the R''' are identical.

Preferably, R' is a divalent linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ - or –CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-.

Preferably, R'' is a divalent linear alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:
- n is a number between 50 and 80;
- m is a number between 1 and 5;
- R''', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
- R'' is a divalent linear alkylene radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:
- n is a number between 50 and 80;
- m is a number between 1 and 5;
- R''', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;
- R' is a radical –(CH ₂ ) ₃ -, -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ - or –CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, and
- R'' is a radical –(CH ₂ ) ₂ -.

A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). We can in particular cite the silicone marketed under the name “DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent” by DOW.

Preferably, the additional silicone(s) may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amine silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not include any additional silicones (0%).

When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-silicone fatty substance

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, which can be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

By “non-silicone fatty substance” is meant a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds.

Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty substances can be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty acids” is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and their mixtures. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

By “fatty alcohol” is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 , even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:
- myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);
- cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);
- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);
- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);
- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);
- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);
- cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);
- montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);
- myricylic alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

The solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol which may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C ₉ -C ₂₆ carboxylic fatty acid and/or from C ₉ -C fatty alcohol. ₂₆ .

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-alcohols can also be used. -, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C ₂ -C ₂₆ .

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, stearyl stearate, hexyl, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and their mixtures.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than approximately 40°C and which can go up to at 200°C, and presenting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by reducing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

We can in particular cite hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, pine wax Berry, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, flower absolute waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also cite microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

We can also cite polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C ₈ to C ₃₂ .

Among these, we can in particular cite isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, l hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the HETERENE company.

We can also use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes composed a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax , Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beewax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; we can cite in particular the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

in which :
- R ₁ designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid;
- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
- R ₃ designates a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups;
it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ₃ can also designate a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alpha-hydroxy acid.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ₃ designates a group -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ .

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ designates a hydrogen atom and R ₃ designates a linear saturated or unsaturated C ₁₅ group.

It is also possible to use compounds for which R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R ₃ designates a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

As liquid fatty substances which may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride type oils of vegetable origin or synthetic, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid fatty substances have a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly present at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The liquid hydrocarbons can be C ₆ to C ₁₈ , and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, in particular C ₁₀ -C _{14 alkanes} . By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; we can cite paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin can be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oils, corn oils, soy, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty alcohols can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26 and of mono or saturated or unsaturated aliphatic polyalcohols, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can cite dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; acetyl methyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isonate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate will be used. ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the framework of this variant, esters of C ₄ to C ₂₂ di or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids can also be used. and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C ₂ to C ₂₆ alcohols.

We can in particular cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ . It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, we can cite for example sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. particularly alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , linear fatty acids. or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters are used and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and their mixtures.

As an example, we can cite the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols. solids, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty substance(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still 3 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyols

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one polyol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyol(s).

By “polyol” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1 ,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better among glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 45% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 6% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickeners

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening agent.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening agent(s).

The thickening agent(s) may, in particular, be aqueous phase thickeners (or hydrophilic thickener).

By “thickener” or “aqueous phase thickening” is meant a compound which increases by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone/plane viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).

The thickening agent is different from the surfactants, polymers, silicones, fatty substances and polyols described above. In particular, the thickening agent is different from the above associative polymers and the above cationic polymers.

The thickening agent can advantageously be chosen from non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the thickening agent can advantageously be chosen from anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric thickening polymers, non-associative with sugar units, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric thickening polymers, non-associative without sugar units, and their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term sugar unit means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can possibly be modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units which can be used in the composition of the aqueous phase thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnosis; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

Mention may in particular be made, as non-associative thickening polymers with sugar motifs, of native gums such as:
a) exudates from trees or shrubs such as:
- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- ghatti gum (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);
- karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- tragacanth (or tragacanth) gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
b) gums from algae such as:
- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
- carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
c) gums from seeds or tubers such as:
- guar gum (mannose and galactose polymer);
- locust bean gum (mannose and galactose polymer);
- fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer);
- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
- konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer);
d) microbial gums such as:
- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
e) plant extracts such as:
- cellulose (glucose polymer);
- starch (glucose polymer) and
- inulin.

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically.

As a physical treatment, we can cite temperature.

As chemical treatments, we can cite esterification, etherification, amidification and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

The nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxylakyl groups.

Among the C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, we can mention by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as for example propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

The starch molecules which can be used in the present invention may have cereals or even tubers as botanical origins. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

Starch molecules can come from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potatoes, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. The hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch preferably comes from potatoes.

The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

By “cellulosic” polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives different from the polymers previously described can be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the cellulose esters, we find inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or cellulose acetatetrimellitates for example) and mixed esters. organic/inorganic cellulose such as acetatebutyratesulfates and cellulose acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the ether esters of cellulose, we can cite hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain, ie "non-associative", we can cite (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses ( for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy(C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid homopolymers and their acrylamide copolymers alone or in mixtures, said polymers being able to be crosslinked or not.

A first family of suitable non-associative thickening polymers is represented by acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably crosslinked.

Among the homopolymers of this type, we can cite those crosslinked with an allyl ether of alcohol of the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA. These polymers have the name INCI Carbomer.

The non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON.

The non-associative thickening polymers can also be chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

Among the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, we can cite in particular the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 and we can refer to refer to this document for what concerns these polymers.

Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from thickening polymers with acrylic or methacrylic units, non-associative, crosslinked or not; in particular among homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, preferably among homopolymers or copolymers of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid, alone or in mixtures; even better among crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular crosslinked with a pentaerythritol allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether, or a propylene allyl ether.

Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2%. by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present in an amount of 65 to 98% by weight, better still 70 to 97% by weight, preferably 75 to 95% by weight, relative to the weight. total composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, one or more organic solvents miscible with water, different from the polyols previously described, in particular chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and/or l isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and/or phenylethyl alcohol; and their mixtures. When present, said organic solvent(s) generally represent 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still 1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, usually used in the field, in particular chosen from anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, sequestering agents. , plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlizing agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservative agents, dyes and fillers.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. The above additives can generally be present in quantities for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of application to the hair of the composition as defined above.

The cosmetic hair treatment method according to the invention may more particularly be a process for cleaning and/or conditioning hair. Preferably, it is a hair conditioning process.

This process comprises a step of applying a composition according to the invention to the hair.

The application of the composition according to the invention can be carried out on damp hair or on dry hair, preferably on damp hair.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention can be followed by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the composition according to the invention is used as a pre-shampoo.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention can be preceded by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the composition according to the invention is used as a conditioner or hair mask.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention can be followed by a time of application of the composition on the hair, which can range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention can be followed by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water.

The step of applying the composition according to the invention can be followed, after a possible exposure time and/or a possible rinsing step, by a drying step, for example using a hair dryer. . The hair can also be left to dry, especially in the open air.

Methods for determining amine number, weight average molecular weight and viscosity

A/ Amine index

The amine number (or amine content) can be determined as follows, based on the ASTM standard Determination of Amine content (tertiary amine) of Amino alkyl silanes and siloxane fluids.

The amine number is determined by acid-base titration and is defined as the quantity (in milli-meq equivalent) of perchloric acid necessary to neutralize 1 g of amine in the sample.

Procedure:
- weigh 10 g of sample in a 500 ml Erlenmeyer
- add 50 ml of toluene, mix until the sample dissolves, then add 125 ml of acetic acid
- with stirring, add 5 drops of crystal violet indicator (at 0.5% w/v in acetic acid, ie 0.5 g of crystal violet in 100 ml of acetic acid)
- titrate with 0.1 N HClO ₄ perchloric acid (in acetic acid) until the green color disappears; for information, color changes are made in the following order: purple ➔ blue ➔ green ➔ yellow

We thus obtain the quantity of perchloric acid necessary to neutralize the 10 g of sample.

The calculation of the amine index (AI) is done as follows:
Amine index (meq/g) = [(ml HClO ₄ ) x (N HClO ₄ )] / sample weight (g)
In the present case (with N = 0.1 N and sample weight = 10 g), we obtain the following simplified equation: IA (meq/g) = [(ml HClO ₄ ) x 0.1] / 10 = ( ml HClO ₄ ) / 100.

B/ Weight average molecular mass

The weight average molecular mass can be determined by any known method, in particular by dynamic light scattering or by gel permeation chromatography. It is generally expressed in Dalton.

C/ Dynamic viscosity

Dynamic viscosity can be determined using the following method.

Measuring conditions: 25 ± 2°C, 1 atm., relative humidity 50 ± 5%

Brookfield Viscometer: This is a precise torque meter that is driven at a discrete rotational speed. The torque measurement system, which consists of a calibrated beryllium-copper spring connecting the drive mechanism to a rotating cone, detects the rotational resistance caused by the presence of a sample of fluid between the cone and a stationary flat plate. The resistance to rotation of the cone produces a torque that is proportional to the shear stress in the fluid.

Sample size: 500mL in a beaker.

Needles (spindles) used, depending on the viscosity range to be measured:
Spindle n°1: for viscosities below 950 mPa.s
Spindle n°2: 950-3800 mPa.s
Spindle n°3: 3800-4750 mPa.s
Spindle n°4: 4750-9500 mPa.s

We will start measuring the viscosity with needle no. 1; if the viscosity is outside the range for this needle, the next one will be tried, and so on, until an absolute viscosity value is obtained. We will take as the viscosity value the value obtained after the needle has rotated for two minutes.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active ingredient (MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the examples which follow, the aminated silicone according to the invention corresponds to the formula

in which R=R'=R''= methyl and A = -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, with m=1.4-13, n = 400-600 and n/m = 45-300.

Its amine index (AI) is between 0.1 and 0.16 meq/g and its weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 35,000 and 45,000.

Example

Composition A according to the invention and comparative compositions A’ and A’’ were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients
A (Invention) A’ (comparative) A’’ (comparative) PEG-150/DECYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER 0.3 0.3 0.3 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.6 0.6 0.6 GLYCERIN 1.0 1.0 1.0 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2.1 2.1 2.1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE 0.4 0.4 0.4 Nonionic surfactants 0.1 0.1 0.1 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3 3 3 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 0.8 - - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.625 meq/g and Mw = 25,000) - 0.8 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.3 meq/g and Mw = 10,000 - 20,000) - - 0.8 Conservatives Qs Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as conditioner, to condition the hair.

The sensory performance provided by composition A according to the invention is evaluated, on damp hair and dried hair, in comparison with those provided by comparative composition A' and by comparative composition A''.

The evaluation is carried out on strands of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment. The locks are previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP CAMOMILLE) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, rinsed and dried.

We then apply a shampoo to the strands (Total Repair 5 ELSEVE – L'OREAL PARIS) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, knead and lather then rinse the strands with water for 15 seconds ( flow rate = 300 l/h, water temperature 35°C).

On washed and still wet strands, apply the care composition A, A’ or A’’, at a rate of 0.55g/g of hair; then without prior rinsing, the strands are dried using a hairdryer and the evaluation is carried out on dry hair.

The following criteria are evaluated:
- on dry hair: smooth touch
The evaluation is done blindly, by 5 evaluators, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

Assessment of smoothness to the touch: The assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform the hair is, homogeneous from root to tip, the less roughness it has, the less it catches the fingers, the smoother it is to the touch.

We obtain the following results (average of the 6 notes):

HAS HAS' HAS'' Dry hair Smooth to the touch 4.0 ± 0.0 3.0 ± 0.0 2.0 ± 0.0

It is noted that the hair treated with the composition according to the invention has significantly superior cosmetic performance in comparison with that treated with the comparative composition, in particular with an improved smoothness to the touch on dry hair. The hair therefore appears more regular, free of its rough edges and therefore repaired.

Claims (15)

Cosmetic hair care composition comprising:
- at least one amino silicone of formula (I)

in which :
- R, identical or different, represents a methyl group, a hydroxy radical or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R' represents a methyl group or a hydroxy radical;
- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms;
the aminated silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000; And
- at least one associative polymer. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which
in the amino silicone(s) of formula (I):
- R, identical or different, represent a methyl group and/or a hydroxy radical; better still, the two R radicals are identical and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better a methyl radical; and or
- R' represents a methyl group; and or
- A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) has or have an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq/g, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g, even better ranging from 0.1 to 0.16 meq/g. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) has or have a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still 25,000 to 50,000, even better 35,000 to 45,000. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the aminated silicone is of formula (I) in which m is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better between 1.5 and 5; and the n/m ratio is between 45 and 300, better between 100 and 300; and advantageously n is between 400 and 600. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the aminated silicone is of formula (I) in which
- R, identical, and R' represent a methyl group,
- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -),
the aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000;
preferably, m is between 1.4 and 13, the ratio n/m is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the aminated silicone of formula (I) has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000-6000 cps), even better 3 to 5 Pa.s. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0 .1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the associative polymer(s) are chosen from nonionic associative polymers and/or cationic associative polymers; preferably among polyurethane polyethers, quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular celluloses, including hydroxyethylcelluloses, quaternized modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the associative polymer(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 .1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulphates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, the salts of dialkyldimethylammonium or of alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures; more preferably among cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)(poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C ₈ alkyl) -C ₁₈ )(poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional silicone different from the aminated silicones of formula (I), preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-volatile liquid non-aminated silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides , liquid C ₆ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures. A method of cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of applying to the hair the composition according to one of the preceding claims; said application step can be followed by a rinsing step and/or a hair drying step.